Saturday, November 23, 2019

Women's Accessories on the Catwalks Spring Summer 2020

Trendstop brings FashionUnited readers a first look at the essential styles informing women's accessories direction for Spring Summer 2020.

The Trendstop team give FashionUnited readers an exclusive look at three of the key accessory product themes that will be inspiring the market into SS20 and beyond. Meeting the lifestyle needs and challenges of the consumer are key for the season's accessories designs. A fashion-meets-function approach yields practical sizing solutions, new tech carriers and problem-solving constructions. Our curated catwalk reports and dedicated accessory trend galleries evaluate each trend's commercial value and longevity, giving you the best possible basis for your decision making.

This week Trendstop present three women's accessories stories emerging for Spring Summer 2020. Plays with scale are rooted in practicality as The Midi Handbag and The Airpod Holder decode everyday user demands. Heat Seal Effects incorporates the latest in construction and finishing methods, giving accessories and ultra-modern elevation.

The Midi Handbag

Experiments with scale see classic handbag styling reworked for spring with smaller, neater and more compact proportions. Offering improved functionality vs. the popular mini versions, midi sized designs are set to become the everyday essential for the season ahead.

Images courtesy of Trendstop, left to right: Hermes, Giorgio Armani, Fendi, all Spring Summer 2020.

Heat Seal Effects

Heat sealing offer a highly contemporary construction or surface treatment option for bags. Forming the basis of structured shell bodies or providing an elevation on quilting and padding techniques, heat sealing can be used to create raised effects from contoured ribbing to updated monogram finishes.

Images courtesy of Trendstop, left to right: Fendi, Gabriela Hearst, Lemaire, all Spring Summer 2020.

The Airpod Holder

The advent of any new personal tech requires an accessory to transport it in or protect it from damage. Tiny structured cases and micro purses designed to carry airpod-sized products feature fashionable yet functional wrist straps or belt loop chains for easy portability.

Images courtesy of Trendstop, left to right: Tods, Ann Demeulemeester, Aigner, all Spring Summer 2020.

Exclusive Offer

FashionUnited readers can get free access to Trendstop's Resort 2020 Key Accessories Directions featuring all the essential designer level styles for the upcoming season. Simply click the banner to receive your free report.

Trendstop.com is one of the world's leading trend forecasting agencies for fashion and creative professionals, renowned for its insightful trend analysis and forecasts. Clients include H&M, Primark, Forever 21, Zalando, Geox, Evisu, Hugo Boss, L'Oreal and MTV.



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Friday, November 22, 2019

H&M's Weekday brand tests out custom-made jeans

Weekday, a Swedish denim and fashion brand owned by the H&M Group, is piloting a new program to offer custom-made jeans. The program utilizes emerging technologies through the company's innovation hub The Laboratory to create products with unique sizes and fits at affordable prices.

"We always have our customers at the heart of everything we do, so the purpose of this pilot was both to understand what they want from a custom-made denim product, what they think about the new experience and to test the readiness of the technologies. The pilot enabled us to gain invaluable insights that we simply couldn’t get from just testing internally," explained Laura Coppen, sustainable and circular business developer of The Laboratory, in a statement.

Through the pilot, 100 customers were invited to trial the technology and provide insights on the service. Customers were body-scanned and then offered customization options to design a unique pair of jeans, which were produced and delivered within ten days using H&M's partner factories. Once the final products were delivered, the customers returned for a fitting and determined whether they liked the fit and comfort level.

H&M Group partners with Unspun

Results determined an 80 percent satisfaction rate among participants, surpassing the company's goal of a 65 percent satisfaction rate.

The H&M Group partnered with Unspun to facilitate this pilot. The venture-backed robotics and apparel company created an algorithm for delivering a perfect fit for custom-made jeans. The algorithm converts the body scan into a paper pattern and measurement list that is production ready.

"I’m an optimist but I had some skepticism on how all the pieces of the puzzle of this model would fit together as we go live," Coppen added. "Therefore, I’m really happy to see that the result outperformed our expectations. Due to the positive result we will scale the pilot to an in-store experience. We will likely have more styles and other features based on the customers feedback."

Photo Credits:Weekday Facebook/ H&M website



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Thursday, November 21, 2019

2019 Recap: our best interviews

FashionUnited had the pleasure of interviewing a number of fashion CEOs, C-suite executives, activists, academics and designers in 2019. As the year draws to a close, we’re looking back at the most insightful interviews we have published this year. Enjoy!

“We run algorithms through the entire company. We basically use machines for everything that can be calculated” - Eric Colson, Chief Algorithms Officer at Stitch Fix

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“One of the greatest challenges of our times is to make the fashion industry circular. We should stop using ‘virgin materials’ the way we do now” - Karl-Johan Persson, CEO of H&M Group

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“Women are embracing colour more than they ever did before, which is fantastic” - Sabrina Shairzay, Chief Forecaster at C&A Europe

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“Focus on having a good product that the consumer wants. It’s all about working with momentum” - Lyndon Cormack, co-founder of Herschel Supply Co.

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“We like to refer to our design ethos as ‘the right amount of nothing’” - Sandeep Verma, Managing Director Europe at Allbirds

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“Our goal was to find an alternative, but without using plastic, like the majority of ‘vegan’ leathers on the market are already doing” - Sébastien Kopp and François-Ghislain Morillion, founders of sneaker brand Veja

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“Taking clothes back into the store for brands to then, in secret, dump or burn them overseas is not circular. Remaking surplus garments into new clothes that then get dumped next season is not circular either” - Otto von Busch, Associate Professor of Integrated Design at Parsons School of Design

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“We’re in 2019 and people are wearing undergarments from the 60s” - Fiona Fairhurst, Vice President of Innovation of Heist Studios

  • Bye bye, tights that run and sag: new brands aim to disrupt the hosiery market

    • “Water demand and scarcity are variable and we were operating according to a ‘one size fits all’ approach that did not address the reality of water stress” - Michael Kobori, Vice President of Sustainability at Levi Strauss & Co.

  • A closer look into Levi's new global water strategy plan

    • “You can create shapes that you really couldn’t create with other technologies” - Valérie Vriamont, Business Developer and Innovation Consultant at 3D-printing company Materialise

  • Materialise: How 3D printing will bring flexibility to the fashion industry

    • “This new generation has grown up with Uber and Airbnb, so I think the resale market is a natural extension of this idea” - Max Bittner, CEO of Vestiaire Collective

  • Fashion resale series: Max Bittner

    • “It is incredible to think that 85 percent of the professions that will exist in 2030 still do not exist today” - Deborah Lee, Chief People Officer at Yoox Net-a-porter Group

  • Yoox Net-a-Porter group hires talent with passion for customer service

    • “Fashion is just one of the consequences of my fascination with math” - Diarra Bousso, founder of fashion brand Diarrablu

  • Meet the Senegalese brand whose prints are based on mathematical equations

    • Photos: courtesy of Stitch Fix, Allbirds, H&M, Herschel Supply, Diarrablu, Heist Studios, Materialise, Vestiaire Collective, Veja, C&A, Otto von Busch, YNAP and Levi Strauss & Co.

    Homepage image: Allbirds, Veja and Levi's Facebook pages. Courtesy of Stitch Fix



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    Wednesday, November 20, 2019

    Gucci boss challenges CEOs to go carbon neutral

    After going carbon neutral in September, Gucci is daring other companies to do the same. CEO Marco Bizzarri published an open letter to CEOs yesterday, asking them to take urgent steps to reduce their greenhouse gas emissions, instead of solely focusing on goals for over the next decades.

    “Given the scientific evidence from the recent IPBES and IPCC reports, we don’t have the leisure to just work to avoid and reduce our impact on climate and biodiversity over the long-term. Nor can we wait for technology and climate smart solutions to catch up, and to scale up, to meet the sustainability challenges we all face,” Bizzarri wrote. “Today we need to be responsible and accountable for the full scope of our greenhouse gas emissions and deliver nature-based climate solutions that mitigate these and drive positive change.”

    “This can be achieved through a logical and clear strategy to ensure that a company accounts for all the greenhouse gas emissions within its own operations and across the supply chain, prioritizes actions to first avoid, reduce and restore, and then offsets all the remaining emissions as a final measure,” he explained.

    Bizarri finished the letter by inviting fellow CEOs to join Gucci’s Carbon Neutral Challenge, whose guiding principles are available for download at equilibrium.gucci.com.

    Gucci’s challenge was launched on the same day European low-cost airline EasyJet also announced it is going carbon neutral by offsetting all greenhouse gas emissions for its 331 planes, becoming the world’s first major airline to operate net zero carbon flights across its entire network.

    The RealReal is the first fashion company to react to Gucci’s Carbon Neutral Challenge

    Luxury resale platform The RealReal was the first fashion company to respond to Bizzarri’s letter. Today, the company announced its intention to go fully carbon neutral in 2021.

    “Marco Bizzarri’s challenge to execute more radical and immediate change inspired us to respond with greater urgency and turn up the dial on the commitment we made with the UN’s Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Action,” said Julie Wainwright, CEO of The RealReal. When joining the UN Charter earlier this year, The RealReal committed to a 30 percent reduction in greenhouse gas emissions by 2030.

    “Between the conversations we had at this year’s Copenhagen Fashion Summit to the important work of activists like Greta Thunberg, it’s clear that we must do more and do it faster,” noted Wainwright. To achieve its updated goals, The RealReal has hired sustainability consultancy Shift Advantage to measure its emissions and establish a path to implementing reductions.

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    Pictures: courtesy of Gucci



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    Tuesday, November 19, 2019

    IFM and Kering launch the "IFM - Kering Sustainability Chair"

    On November 14, the Institut Français de la Mode (IFM) inaugurated a new Chair aimed at creating a high-level research and teaching centre in the fashion sector by integrating all aspects of sustainable development and CSR.

    The "IFM - Kering Sustainability Chair", was inaugurated in the presence of François-Henri Pinault, CEO of Kering, and Xavier Romatet, IFM's Chief Executive Officer. Under the direction of Andrée-Anne Lemieux, PhD in industrial engineering and professor in charge of all initiatives related to sustainable development within the IFM.

    This Chair will focus upon scientific research on a wide range of topics related to sustainable development, from traceability to measurement and eco-responsible business models. While aspects of the ecology of creation will also be studied in order to identify ways in which creative teams can develop an ecological culture and propose new sustainable creative offers with high attractiveness while developing tools for measuring, appropriating environmental and social issues.

    Dedicated to a future of responsible fashion

    "The IFM - Kering Sustainability Chair is an integral part of the IFM's strategy by enabling students to acquire a 360° understanding of sustainable development issues so that they can participate as future professionals in the transformation of the sector," said Xavier Romatet.

    Thus, the Chair's research work will include supervising doctoral students on university theses, contributing to scientific publications and participating in conferences related to the Chair's program and issues.

    Training modules dedicated to responsible fashion (ready-to-wear, shoes, leather goods, accessories and jewellery) will be developed for training courses ranging from CAP to Bac+5 in creation, management and know-how as well as for continuing training for companies. An active pedagogy will make it possible to approach sustainable development through the environmental, social and societal aspects relating to economic models, supply processes, innovations, materials, manufacturing processes, consumers, etc.

    "Research and education play a fundamental role in changing the practices and models of the fashion sector. At Kering, these are key elements of our sustainable development strategy because we believe that it is our duty, as a luxury group, to address the generations that will make the fashion of tomorrow. I am pleased that Kering is partnering with the IFM to create a Chair dedicated to sustainable development and I am convinced that the resulting research will have a concrete application to help transform our sector," commented Marie-Claire Daveu, Director of Sustainable Development and International Institutional Relations at Kering.

    This article was originally published on FashionUnited FR. The text has been translated for an international audience.

    Photo: credited to Jean-Luc Perréard



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    Monday, November 18, 2019

    Koovs’s back and forth with shareholders stall outstanding major investment

    New York – UK-listed Indian fashion e-commerce platform Koovs PLC said Monday it remains in talks with major shareholder Future Lifestyle Fashions Ltd, owned by Future Group, for completing its outstanding 6.5 million pounds investment.

    Koovs shares were down 31 percent at 2.50 pence each in London on Monday afternoon. As a reference, three years ago, the stock traded about 70 pence.

    FLFL currently holds a 26 percent stake in Koovs and has already invested 250,000 pounds for 881,523 convertible preference shares at 28.36 pence each, which will convert to ordinary shares in June 2020. The capital infusion was paused after the Reserve Bank of India asked FLFL to reapply for approval before any further subscriptions are made.

    "FLFL has confirmed to the company that it is in the process of reapplying for approval of the investment from the Reserve Bank of India and that it remains committed to honouring the investment," Koovs said.

    Koovs also said that it is "actively considering all other financing alternatives available to it." The company currently has cash reserves of around GBP2.2 million which is sufficient for 2019.

    The London-based, however, warned that it may no longer be able to trade as a going concern if it fails to secure further funding from FLFL or through alternative sources.

    Koovs PLC (LON: KOOV) have seen their shares sink across Monday trading, amid talks between shareholders over a major financial investment.

    Shares of Koovs sunk 29.6 percent to 2 pence apiece on Monday.



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    Sunday, November 17, 2019

    Key Catwalk Print Directions Spring Summer 2020

    Trendstop brings FashionUnited readers a first look at the key catwalk stories inspiring womenswear print direction for Spring Summer 2020.

    The Trendstop team give FashionUnited readers an exclusive look at three essential print themes straight from the international runway events. Informing womenswear print and graphics into SS20 and beyond, core print ideas are refined and elevated with high-culture references and sophisticated executions of nature concepts. Our curated catwalk trends, print and graphics reports and dedicated image galleries evaluate each trend's commercial value and longevity, giving you the best possible basis for your decision making.

    This week Trendstop present three SS20 trends essential for the womenswear apparel and accessories markets. The natural world inspires marine themes and a contemporary reworking of classic tropical looks in The Awesome Ocean and The Reimagined Tropical Print. Cultural Conversationals adopts a high-brow approach with historical motifs elevating designs.

    The Reimagined Tropical Print

    The summer staple tropical print is reimagined for the new season with highly stylized motifs and artistically applied flora and foliage. Simplified leaves and jungle creatures stand out against colour-blocked grounds while bright colour combinations amplify their almost cartoonish quality. Broad brush strokes turn garments into a canvas for lush tropical blooms.

    Images courtesy of Trendstop, left to right: Valentino, Missoni, Marni, all Spring Summer 2020.

    The Awesome Ocean

    Tapping into the ongoing conversations around industry and sustainability and the environment, designers celebrated the awesome power and beauty of the world's oceans via bold, abstracted all-over prints in vivid sea blue tones. Painterly rendered photo prints of stormy seas, stylised wave illustrations and random cross-hatched effects reminiscent of rolling surf bring a cooling sensibility to both casual and dress categories.

    Images courtesy of Trendstop, left to right: Acne Studios, Halpern, Off-White, all Spring Summer 2020.

    Cultural Conversationals

    Conversational prints look to art and culture for inspiration with references from Greek and Roman history and art movement illustrations. Two-tone line drawings put a contemporary twist on classical themes, emboldening ancient motifs with an animated quality. Randomised placements and all-over effects highlight artistic endeavors.

    Images courtesy of Trendstop, left to right: Salvatore Ferragamo, Alexander McQueen, Baum und Pferdgarten, all Spring Summer 2020.

    Exclusive Offer

    FashionUnited readers can get free access to Trendstop's Fall Winter 2019-20 Key Print Directions, featuring all the must-have prints from the catwalks. Simply click here to receive your free report.

    Trendstop.com is one of the world's leading trend forecasting agencies for fashion and creative professionals, renowned for its insightful trend analysis and forecasts. Clients include H&M, Primark, Forever 21, Zalando, Geox, Evisu, Hugo Boss, L'Oreal and MTV.



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