LIM College student wins first FGI Future Fashion Award in collaboration with Macy's

Maryanne Grisz, Ralph Rucci, Gary Wassner, and the Rising Star Awardees attend Fashion Group International's 28th Annual Rising Star Awards on May 13, 2024 in New York City. Credits: image courtesy of Fashion Group International.



On Monday, Fashion Group International (FGI) held its rising star award ceremony luncheon event 2024 in New York City, where the new Future Fashion award for students, in collaboration with Macy’s, was awarded for the first time. LIM College student Fatmata Camara was the lucky winner.


With its Rising Star Awards, FGI aims to put emerging designers in the spotlight, giving them more visibility. The award ceremony took place on New York City’s Upper East Side.


For this year's edition, FGI entered into a partnership with Macy’s and this week the two partners presented the first Future Fashion award. The goal of the award is to honour one stand-out junior or senior year student who is currently enrolled in a fashion merchandising program at one of the universities in FGI’s higher education network.


Winners are selected based on their passion, nuanced analysis, creativity, and vision, marking them out as a ‘rising star’ in the field of fashion merchandising.


Along with the honour of winning the inaugural edition of the Future Fashion Award, Fatmata Camara, currently a fashion merchandising student at LIM College, also received 1,000 euros in prize money to fund her studies.


The special guest at the Rising Star Awards luncheon 2024 was Ken Downing, creative director of fashion brand Halston and CEO at Xcel Brands.


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Is this the second coming of designer John Galliano?

Zendaya arrives at Met Gala 2024 in a vintage Givenchy gown by John Galliano Credits: Photo by ANDREA RENAULT / AFP



Opinion
If ever there was a star that shone exceptionally bright at this year’s Met Gala, it was that of John Galliano. Despite the British designer not attending in person, his triumphant designs were worn during some of the biggest red carpet moments of the event, including co-chairs Zendaya and Bad Bunny, Kim Kardashian, Ariana Grande—who performed in the evening—and Gwendoline Christie, to name but a few.


Just this week, film director Greta Gerwig wore couture Margiela at the Cannes Film Festival, as celebrity stylists seek out his visionary designs when it comes to haute dressing their clients, some turning to his archives when he designed for Givenchy and Dior. Ever since the much-lauded Maison Margiela haute couture show in Paris last January, John Galliano has returned to the highest echelons of the fashion industry and has remained top of mind. In today’s economised industry, where fashion has largely been stripped of fantasy in order to sell at high volumes, he remains a rare talent who operates in a league of his own.


Reparations and forgiveness




The downfall from his antisemitic rants in a Parisian café in 2011 led to his firing from Dior, but a decade on, Mr. Galliano has made reparations that appear both genuine and bygone, with his contrition witnessed on camera in the now-streaming High and Low documentary directed by Kevin MacDonald. Condé Nast’s Anna Wintour has quietly supported Mr. Galliano and was rumoured to have desired a Galliano-themed Met Gala, but was met with a cautious museum board that feared a potential decrease in Costume Institute donations and found it too controversial a theme. Wintour's seal of approval is often a barometer for the industry at large.


However, there are other rumours circulating about Mr. Galliano. One persistent one is that he may be up for a role at a bigger house. Both Kering’s Balenciaga and LVMH’s Givenchy are being mentioned as potential options, signaling that Mr. Galliano has truly been welcomed back into the fold.


Mr. Galliano, the genius from Central Saint Martins who, along with Alexander McQueen, defined an era in fashion that has yet to return. The excitement of their fashion shows drew inspiration from historical periods, literature, and various cultures, creating a vivid narrative and immersive experience for those lucky enough to attend. Their ability to tell a story through fashion, complete with elaborate set designs, music, and choreography, was true storytelling long before it became a social media marketing tool.


There appears to be a demand for the return of his dramatic silhouettes, eye for tailoring (who else perfected the bias cut like John Galliano?) and use of unconventional materials. Both Galliano and McQueen had a fearless exploration of the darker aspects of humanity that made their shows both unsettling and fascinating. While Maison Margiela and Diesel founder Renzo Rosso was the first to bring Galliano out of obscurity, he may now be ready for something bolder, bigger, and new.


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Street Style Trends: Luxury handbags get a novelty makeover

Sunrise and Sunset Hermes Birkin Bags Credits: Sunrise and Sunset Hermes Birkin Bags/©Launchmetrics/spotlight



There are signs in both Europe and The U.S. that there is a weakening demand for full-priced luxury handbags. However, most high-end brands rely heavily on this sector to build name recognition and revenue. Some businesses are doubling down and are willing to keep pushing prices higher to compensate for short falls. As recently reported by FashionUnited.com, the retail price of a Chanel medium sized flap bag has been increased by about 6 percent to over 10,700 dollars (10.000 euro).


Another tactic employed by both major and smaller companies is to release novelty or embellished versions of their coveted bags,sometimes in collaboration with other brands. In other instances, consumers customise their own handbags to add an element of uniqueness.
Nowhere is this trend more evident than on the street during major fashion weeks.

Dior ‘Rasta Mania’ Saddle bag



Dior ‘Rasta Mania’ Saddle bag Credits: Paris Street Style FW24/©Launchmetrics/spotlight



When John Galliano was the designer at Dior, he introduced the original version of the saddle bag. In the early aughts, he launched a variety of novelty versions including the printed ‘Rasta Mania’ version. It has once again risen in popularity, with a hefty price tag on the resale sites.

Coach/ Disney 101 Dalmatians Cruella Box Crossbody Bag



Coach/ Disney 101 Dalmatians Cruella Bag Credits: New York Street Style FW24©Launchmetrics/spotlight



To commemorate the 50th anniversary of Walt Disney World in 2021, Coach collaborated with Disney to produce a series of products featuring their most iconic villains. The crossbody bag depicting Cruella de Vil from 101 Dalmations has been a crowd pleaser.

Loewe x Studio Ghibli: ‘Spirited Away’ bag



Loewe x Studio Ghibli handheld bag Credits: Paris Street Style FW24/©Launchmetrics/spotlight


Jonathan Anderson appears to delight in producing all kinds of novelty bags. He collaborated with the renowned animation house Studio Ghibli to create a capsule collection inspired by the 2001 animated film ‘Spirited Away’.

Loewe x Studio Ghibli: Giant Castle Bag



Loewe x Studio Ghibli: Giant Castle Bag Credits: Paris Street Style FW24/©Launchmetrics/spotlight



In another collaboration with Studio Ghibli, Loewe issued the ‘Giant Castle’ bag as part of the Howl’s Moving Castle collection.

Gucci ‘Mini Tiger Horsebit 1955’ Satchel



Gucci ‘Mini Tiger Horsebit 1955 satchel Credits: Tokyo Street Style FW24/©Launchmetrics/spotlight



Gucci’s iconic horsebit was designed in 1953 and first appeared on a handbag in 1955. In 2022, the House issued a printed version to celebrate the ‘year of the tiger.’

Hermès Sunrise and Sunset Birkin Bags



Hermes Sunrise and Sunset Bags Credits: Paris Street Style FW24/©Launchmetrics/spotlight



The first Birkin was designed in the mid-eighties inspired by the specifications suggested by actor and singer, Jane Birkin. Sisters Snehal and Jyoti Babani caused a commotion at the House’s FW24 ready-to-wear show dressed head to toe in Hermès and carrying the ‘Sunrise’ and ‘Sunset Rainbow’ versions, issued in 2020.

Heart Evangelista Hand-Painted Birkin



Hermes hand painted Birkin bag Credits: Paris Street Style FW24/©Launchmetrics/spotlight



Influencer and artist, Heart Evangelista (aka Love Marie Escudero) has become well-known for hand painting bags, including the Hermès Birkin which she carried attending the FW24 show.

Hermes Kelly Bag with key chains



Hermes Kelly Bag Credits: Paris Street Style FW24/©Launchmetrics/spotlight



As seen during Paris Fashion Week, an attendee spruced up her Hermès Kelly bag by wrapping a bandana around the handle and embellishing the face with hanging keychains.

Fendi Roma Tic-Tac-Toe Set



Fendi Roma Tic-Tac-Toe Set Credits: Milan Street Style FW24/©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Not strictly a handbag, an attendee was seen carrying Fendi's oak wood Tic-Tac-Toe Set outside the House’s FW 24 ready-to-wear show!

Puppets and Puppets Carrot Leather Apothecary Bag



Puppets and Puppets Carrot Leather Apothecary Bag Credits: New York Street Style FW24/©Launchmetrics/spotlight



Puppets and Puppets designer Carly Mark is known for her whimsical handbag designs including those with ‘fried egg’ and ‘cookie’ embellishments. Her ‘Carrot Apothecary Bag’ in leather and resin, first launched in 2022 is in high demand on the resale sites.

Read more:



* A Chanel flap bag now costs more than 10,000 euros


* Street style trends of the AW24 fashion weeks



* Rakuten FWT street style


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MySize revenues accelerate in the first quarter

MySize ID Credits: MySize



Israeli startup MySize revenues for the first quarter increased 314 percent to 2.98 million dollars driven by an increase in Orgad sales.


MySize develops measurement technology based on sophisticated algorithms and cutting-edge technology with broad applications, including the apparel, e-commerce, DIY, shipping, and parcel delivery industries.


"We continued to show strong revenue growth and increased gross profits over the first quarter driven by increases in revenues from Orgad, manly due to shifting our operation to FBA (fulfilment by Amazon) and our SaaS sizing solutions," stated MySize CEO and founder, Ronen Luzon.


The company said in a release that gross profit for the quarter decreased to 1.20 million dollars due to a warehouse fire and the associated write-down of part of Orgad's inventory.


Operating loss reduced to 1,07 million dollars, while net loss contracted to 1,02 million dollars due an increase in revenues and cost savings in R&D.


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Marimekko's first quarter net sales increase by 7 percent

Marimekko store Credits: Marimekko



Finnish lifestyle company Marimekko’s net sales increased by 7 percent to 37.7 million euros in the first quarter boosted by the growth of wholesale sales in Finland and growth of international net sales.


Commenting on the first quarter update, Tiina Alahuhta-Kasko, president and CEO of Marimekko said: “Marimekko had a good start to the year 2024, and an impressive one in terms of our brand communications. This year, we are celebrating the 60th anniversary of the Unikko print, which supports our momentum to continue our determined work to scale up our profitable growth in spite of the weaker general market situation.”


Net sales in Finland grew by 8 percent, while international sales grew by 6 percent as wholesale sales developed favourably both in the Asia-Pacific region and North America and licensing income grew considerably.


Operating profit was 5.1 million euros and comparable operating profit totaled 5.2 million euros, up 36 percent.


In the first quarter, Marimekko complemented its omnichannel retail network in Asia by launching a new digital channel in China and online stores in Vietnam and Malaysia were opened. In Japan, two Marimekko stores were opened in Koshigaya and Sendai. In addition, two pop-up stores opened doors in Australia. Total net sales in the Asia-Pacific region increased by 22 percent in the first quarter.


The Marimekko Group's net sales for 2024 are expected to grow from the previous year’s 174.1 million euros. Comparable operating profit margin is estimated to be approximately 16 to 19 percent compared to 18.4 percent in 2023.


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Pure London x JATC announce dates for second joint edition, begins revealing exhibitors

Pure London x JATC July 2024 edition. Credits: Pure London x JATC.



Following on from the partnership’s launch, the now joint British trade shows Pure London x JATC have announced the dates of the event’s second edition, which is to once again be held in Olympia London.


From July 14 to 16, the location will play host to a multitude of local and international brands spanning eight categories: Woman, Pop, Sustainable, Menswear, Together, Shoes & Accessories, Jewellery and Beauty & Lifestyle.


Sustainable is one of the newer divisions returning for the July show, continuing to bolster the presence of exhibitors that have been assessed under the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) and are addressing environmental and social issues.


Among the brands to be exhibited here are The Fika Edit, which aims to uphold the well-being of people and planet, as well as Pink Lemons, Nila Rubia and Buff.


On the wider spectrum, there will be a number of exhibitors that will be coming back, including AX Paris, Another Sunday, Goose Island, Nissa and Vilagallo, while the list of newcomers is to include Blakkript, Fashion M.O.V and CSIX.


In a release, creative director for JATC, Juls Dawson, said: “Pure London x JATC is the must attend fashion event offering a diverse line up of brands, style, trends and innovation across three days. The fusion of the two events has created a dynamic platform for buyers and retailers, catering for everyone in industry – it is a buying experience like never before.”

Read more:



* Child’s play and monster tailoring: AW24 Trends from Pure London x JATC






* Revivals, mergers and London’s return: What went down at the first Pure London x JATC






* UK trade fairs Pure London and JATC to combine from February


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Labels to Watch: 5 modest fashion brands from IMFW24 that redefine global fashion

Beachwear by Citizens of the World, USA, at Istanbul Modest Fashion Week 2024. Credits: Istanbul Modest Fashion Week





The Modest Fashion Weeks by Think Fashion event series took place for the ninth time this year and has made a name for itself in almost a decade. The event, which can take place twice a year, began in 2016 in Fişekhane Gallery in Istanbul and was held in London (2017), Jakarta (2018), Dubai (2017, 2019, 2021), Amsterdam (2019) and Riyadh (2022) in subsequent years.


It is an important opportunity for retailers to discover the versatility of modest fashion. After all, the market is far from exhausted: it is estimated to grow from 254 billion US dollars today to 473 billion US dollars in just a few years.



Creation by Ahsannazir. Credits: Istanbul Modest Fashion Week





This year, the fashion shows of the modest fashion brands for spring/summer 2024 took place from 25 to 27 April in the historic venue Fişekhane in Istanbul, bringing the pioneering city full circle. Under the motto "A Unique Fashion Call for Solidarity", 24 fashion shows were organised by labels from countries such as Bangladesh, India, Indonesia, Iran, Canada, Nigeria, Pakistan, Palestine, Serbia, South Africa, the USA, the United Arab Emirates and, of course, Turkey.


In addition, there were 29 brand booths, 11 talk shows, various experience points and a mini art gallery at Istanbul Modest Fashion Week 2024 (IMFW 24). FashionUnited followed the fashion shows online and presents five inspiring fashion labels - in alphabetical order - from IMFW 24.







Ahsannazir






Pakistani designer Ahsan Nazir caught the audience's attention with a soft and feminine collection by his eponymous label, which included various shades of pink, lace and embroidery as well as long, loose satin dresses. “The collection is a must for anyone who needs a feminine touch in their wardrobe,” he stated.


Designer Ahsan Nazir from Pakistan at Istanbul Modest Fashion Week. Credits: Istanbul Modest Fashion Week





During the fashion show on Thursday 25 April, Nazir presented his latest collection "Whispers of Lahore", inspired by the architectural beauty of Lahore. Elegance and modernity came together in the form of silk and delicate embroidery, appealing to those with a touch of romance.


Ensemble “Aster” by Ahsannazir. Credits: Ahsannazir





“For me, the power and strength lies in romance and femininity. I make clothes for women who feel comfortable, strong and independent. I started in Lahore and San Francisco, and the romance and details are the inspiration I bring from these cities. But always with the elegance and lightness that characterises me. It has to feel effortless,” commented the designer before the fashion show. 







About Ahsannazir:






* Founded: 2006 by Ahsan Nazir.




* Target group: All those who appreciate both modesty and contemporary style.


* Sales: Via the own online shop.



* Prices: between 350 and 2,200 US dollars.



* Production: Made in a local workshop by a team of artisans.








Citizens of the Word





US brand Citizens of the World presented its spring/summer collection 2024 full of bright colours and playful designs on Friday, 26th April.







Kimono by Citizens of the World. Credits: Istanbul Modest Fashion Week.





The seven-piece collection consisted of a Hanley dress, a ruffled dress, a kimono, a two-piece pant set, beach towels and sarongs as well as a one-piece swimming costume with matching turban, alluding to the brand’s beginnings as a swimwear brand and signalling the arrival of warmer months. All pieces are available in three colours and in sizes XS to XXL.
 









Casual wear by US label Citizens of the World. Credits: Citizens of the World







Founding Citizens of the World was fuelled by a desire to redefine contemporary fashion. In the midst of dynamic trend shifts from fast fashion to high fashion to street styles, founder Sarah Shihadeh realised that her clothing needs were not being adequately met. “In my opinion, fashion is very focused on artistic designs and structures of garments and has lost the basic essence,” she says.






About Citizens of the World:






* Founded: 2016 by Sarah Shihadeh in New York City.




* Target group:Women who appreciate fashion that seamlessly combines style and practicality to suit their diverse lifestyles.


* Sales: All items are available from the brand’s own online shop.



* Prices: Between 103 and 229 US dollars.












Hukka Design




Turkish label Hukka Design presented its colourful ready-to-wear collection on Friday, 26th April. It was full of bright red, orange and blue colours and botanical patterns.




Ensemble in orange by Hukka Design. Credits: Hukka Design





As a contrast to the colourful creations, social media content creator Niki Shah walked the catwalk in an all-black look as the brand's muse, standing out from the other models.








The colourful Hukka Design collection at Istanbul Modest Fashion Week with influencer Niki Shah in all black. Credits: Istanbul Modest Fashion Week









About Hukka Design:






* Founded: 2012 in Istanbul.



* Target group:Women who place importance on dressing well, regardless of their lifestyle.



* Sales: More than 150 stores in various cities in Turkey and in 27 different countries as well as online.



* Prices: On request.












MRGD




Egyptian label MRGD's collection (pronounced “Merged”) was probably one of the most versatile of those seen at Istanbul Modest Fashion Week. In an exclusive fashion show on Friday, 26th April, the label showcased different silhouettes and styles, including long, loose everyday dresses, figure-hugging satin evening gowns and a few daring silhouettes.


MRGD from Egypt showed its versatile collection at Istanbul Modest Fashion Week. Credits: Istanbul Modest Fashion Week





While a monochrome colour palette dominated the collection, one could also find some dresses with floral prints. MRGD's focus is on unique craftsmanship and high-quality materials to create timeless designs that last.




Different styles of a summer dress by MRGD in pastel colours. Credits: MRGD







About MRGD:







* Bestsellers: Maxi dresses, long summer dresses and white summer trousers with wide legs.




* Target group: People who feel empowered by the brand's garments and want to protect the planet by adhering to sustainable standards throughout the production process.


* Sales: Online via the website eg.mrgd.co and Instagram.



* Prices: In the lower price range.












Niharika Momtaz




Designerin Niharika Momtaz from Bangladesh wowed the audience at her fashion show on Friday, 26th April with a couture collection that featured a variety of colours such as electric blue and emerald green as well as neutrals, pastels and white in feminine silhouettes with faux furs and glitter.


 





Haute couture by Nikarika Momtaz at Istanbul Modest Fashion Week. Credits: Istanbul Modest Fashion Week





The label created the new eco-conscious, sustainable, luxurious and vegan E-Studio line “1972 Conscious” to bring products that reflect traditional art forms to conscious consumers. “We wanted to show how centuries-old art can be translated into a bold contemporary design that fits perfectly with modern fashion,” said Momtaz about the sustainable luxury line.




Evening gown and jewellery by Niharika Momtaz. Credits: Niharika Momtaz





The label has set itself the goal that all products should be made from recycled or other sustainably sourced materials by 2035; 45 percent of the materials used are already sustainable. “We use yarns made from cotton, linen and sustainable silk as well as waste from clothing factories for zero-waste weaving. We also use recyclable materials such as old coins, brass, copper, silver, gold and conflict-free diamonds to make jewellery,” explained the label.








About Niharika Momtaz:






* Founded: 2012 by Niharika Momtaz.






* Target group: Fashion- and environmentally conscious women.



* Sales: By appointment.



* Production: Mostly handmade or handwoven under ethical conditions and made from sustainable fabrics in Bangladesh.



* Prices: On request.





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Lower revenues from Greater China impacts Tod’s Q1

Tod's store in Mumbai Credits: Tod's



Tod’s turnover reached 252.3 million euros, down 6.7 percent in the first quarter with the strong impact of currencies and China weakness weighing on the results.


The company said in a statement that Tod's and Roger Vivier were visibly affected by the weakness of the Chinese market. However, all brands performed well in the European and American markets.


Commenting on the interim trading update, Tod’s chairman and CEO Diego Della Valle, said: “With the success of the tender offer, the Tod's group is exiting the stock exchange. We made this choice to develop the full potential of our individual brands, making all the necessary investments in a timeline we deem most suitable.”


The group recorded good results in the domestic Italian market and Europe, driven by local demand and the important contribution of tourist purchases. The US market performed very well, which also benefited from the increased number of points of sales in department stores.


On the other hand, the performance in the Greater China market was negative, impacted by the sharp drop in store traffic and weak consumption, as well as a particularly challenging comparison base. The rest of the world area was also weak, despite good results from Japan and the Middle East.


As of March 31, 2024, the group's distribution network consisted of 349 DOS and 104 franchised stores.


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Burberry's sales slump signals struggle to realise potential

OPINION


Burberry unveils new Burberry Classics line Credits: Burberry



In a seemingly perpetual turnaround, Burberry's latest results, unveiled on Wednesday, illustrate the ongoing struggle for the brand to attract shoppers to its contemporary British luxury wares.


Despite its efforts, Burberry's sales plummeted by 12 percent in the first quarter, accompanied by a sharp decline in share prices over the past year, indicating that the brand's messaging has yet to resonate with the aspirational consumer who once coveted its iconic heritage checks.


While outerwear outperformed ready-to-wear, it suggests Daniel Lee's more niche approach to fashion is yet to materialise in driving product revenue.


Like other luxury peers, Burberry continues to grapple with tepid markets such as China and the U.S. In the fourth quarter, sales in China plummeted by 19 percent, while those in the U.S. declined by 12 percent. Despite hopes for a resurgence in demand in the latter half of 2024, the prevailing macroeconomic conditions and global slowdown are unlikely to change.


In a statement Burberry’s chief executive officer Jonathan Akeroyd said: “While our full-year financial results underperformed our original expectations, we have made good progress refocusing our brand image, evolving our product, and strengthening distribution while delivering operational improvements.”


Strategy to realise potential




“We are using what we have learned over the past year to fine-tune our approach, while adapting to the external environment. We remain confident in our strategy to realize Burberry’s potential.”


The past year has seen Burberry busy refurbishing its stores, which under Daniel Lee have a new look and feel, not to mention a revamped logo above the door. The company said it had upgraded more than 50 percent of its boutiques and that it was making “a big accessories push.” Scarves grew by a double digit, year on year.


While sales of scarves are likely not enough to cover the 34 percent drop in operating profit, Akeroyd said “We are setting ourselves up for future growth.”


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Queen Camilla pledges not to buy new fur, said PETA

Curator Sally Goodsir makes final adjustments to The Queen’s Coronation Dress in a special Coronation display for visitors to the Summer Opening of Buckingham Palace Credits: Royal Collection Trust/ His Majesty King Charles III 2023



Buckingham Palace has confirmed PETA's long-awaited request: Queen Camilla has pledged to no long procure fur for her wardrobe, following the precedent set by the late Queen Elizabeth II in 2019.


This marks Queen Camilla's inaugural stance against the fur industry, however the confirmation does not state she will not wear fur from existing pieces in the current royal wardrobes.


In response to Queen Camilla's decision, PETA founder Ingrid Newkirk stated: “PETA is toasting to Queen Camilla with a glass of the finest claret for being a true queen by standing with the 95 percent of British people who also refuse to wear animal fur, as polls show. It’s right and proper for the monarchy to reflect British values by recognising that fur has no place in our society – and it makes the Ministry of Defence’s use of real bear fur for the royal guard’s caps ever more preposterous and out of touch.”


PETA's ongoing campaign to abolish the Ministry of Defence's use of bearskin for the King's Guard's caps spans two decades, with a recent exposé shedding light on the brutal practices employed in sourcing bear fur. PETA said the disturbing footage unveils the grim reality faced by bears in Canada, where they are lured with bait, shot, and gruesomely mutilated to procure their fur, potentially destined for use in ceremonial headgear like that used by the royal family.


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Sharp decline in wholesale impacts Geox results

Geox store in Marina Mall, Dubai Credits: Geox



Geox reported first quarter sales of 193.6 million euros, down 13.5 percent or 11.7 percent at constant exchange rates due to the performance of the wholesale channel and franchising, partially offset by the positive trend of the digital DOS channel.


Considering the uncertain geopolitical and macroeconomic short-term scenario, the company expects operating margin for the full year to increase 50 bps, while revenue is forecasted to decline mid-single digit compared to 2023.


Commenting on the first quarter trading, the company’s chief executive officer Enrico Mistron said in a statement: “The first quarter of 2024 has proven to be extremely challenging and complex. The persistence of the complexity and uncertainty observed in all our major reference markets in these first months of 2024 lead us to maintain a prudent and focused approach to the growth of the most profitable markets, the streamlining of processes, and the optimization of cost structures.”


Geox Q1 wholesale sales decrease




Wholesale, which accounted for 55.2 percent of the group's sales, amounted to 106.8 million euros, down 21.6 percent at current and 19.7 percent at constant exchange rates.


Franchising channel sales, accounting for 8.4 percent of the group's sales, amounted to 16.2 million euros, a decrease of 21.4 percent affected by the reduction in the number of stores, associated with negative like-for-like performance of 2.5 percent. Stores under franchising agreement decreased from 284 stores in March 2023 to 263 in March 2024.


The sales from physical and digital DOS, that represent 36.4 percent of the total group's sales, amounted to 70.6 million euros, up 5.4 percent at current exchange and 6.9 percent at constant exchange rates. Comparable sales (LFL) from physical stores witnessed a growth of 4.4 percent. Sales generated through DOS digital channels recorded an increase of 41.9 percent. The number of DOS decreased from 291 stores in March 2023 to 251 in March 2024.


Geox posts revenue decline in Italy and other markets




The sales recorded in Italy accounted for 28.4 percent of the group's sales, decreased by 13.2 percent to 55 million euros driven by 23.8 percent drop in wholesale channel and 31.8 percent in franchisee shops, partially offset by the 0.9 percent increase recorded by physical and 39.1 percent growth recorded by digital DOS.


Sales generated in Europe representing 43.4 percent of the total sales decreased 10.3 percent to 84.1 million euros driven by negative performances in the DACH region (Germany, Austria, and Switzerland), particularly in the wholesale channel. Direct stores (physical and digital) reported LFL sales growth of 16 percent, primarily driven by the good performance of the physical store in France and by the digital stores. Franchisees experienced negative performances of approximately 10.3 percent.


North America recorded revenue of 6 million euros, down by 20.8 percent or 20 percent at constant exchange, influenced by a 33.2 percent decline in the wholesale channel. The DOS channel remained substantially flat, with the positive performances of the digital stores offsetting the decline in the physical stores.


Other countries reported a revenue decline of 17.9 percent or 10.7 percent at constant exchange. In the Middle East region, revenue experienced a significant decrease, due to geopolitical tensions and the outbreak of the Israeli-Palestinian conflict.


Footwear representing 89.9 percent of consolidated sales, amounted to 174.1 million euros, with a decrease of 14 percent or 12.5 percent at constant exchange rates, apparel accounting for 10.1 percent of total sales amounted to 19.5 million euros; down 8.5 percent at current exchange and 3.6 percent at constant exchange rates.


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Podcast: Senior Brand & Marketing Manager at H&M Group on her career trajectory

Credits: H&M Group.




What is it like to work at H&M Group? In this episode of the podcast ‘Brand News’, Stephany, senior brand & marketing manager at H&M Group, talks about her 11-year experience at the Swedish fashion group.


In the podcast, the manager talks about how she got started. To be more precise: during her studies as a shop assistant at H&M. Now a manager, Stephany talks about her career - from the training she attended to setting up her own businesses.


http://dlvr.it/T6vNVF

Podcast: An insight into the life of a design manager at Maison Margiela in Paris

Credits: Maison Margiela. Beeld: OTB



In this episode of the Brand News podcast, Maeva Mellet, the design manager at Maison Margiela in Paris tells her career story. Mellet leads womenswear design at Maison Margiela and works closely with creative director John Galliano.


Mellet has an impressive CV. She began her career at Galeries Lafayette and held key roles at Balenciaga, Chloé, Givenchy and Zara before joining Maison Margiela. She discusses the highlights of her career, including her decision to freelance.


This podcast episode offers insight into what it's like to work at a major luxury fashion brand like Maison Margiela. Mellet candidly shares her experiences, including the challenges she faces. For example, she reveals that Fashion Week has not always been enjoyable for her.


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On records strong first quarter sales and profit growth

On flagship store in Paris Credits: On Running



For its first quarter, On Holding’s net sales increased by 20.9 percent to 508.2 million Swiss francs or by 29.2 percent on a constant currency basis.


Net sales through the direct-to-consumer sales channel increased by 39 percent to 190.5 million Swiss francs or by 48.7 percent on constant currency basis; while wholesale net sales increased by 12.2 percent to 317.7 million Swiss francs or by 19.8 percent on constant currency basis;


Considering the strength of On's DTC channel and commitment to ongoing profitability increases, the company is maintaining its ambition to reach a gross profit margin of around 60 percent and an adjusted EBITDA margin of 16 to 16.5 percent for the full year 2024.


Commenting on the first quarter performance, Martin Hoffmann, co-CEO and CFO of On, said in a statement: “We are thrilled to have exceeded our expectations and surpassed the half-billion net sales mark in a single quarter. The significantly increased DTC share has also allowed us to reach a very strong gross profit margin in the first quarter, close to the mid-term target we laid out a couple of months ago.”


On’s net sales in Europe, Middle East and Africa (EMEA), Americas and Asia-Pacific increased by 6.1 percent to 126.2 million Swiss francs, 22 percent to 329.6 million Swiss francs and 68.6 percent to 52.4 million Swiss francs, respectively. Net sales in EMEA, Americas and Asia-Pacific increased by 10.4 percent, 30.4 percent and 90.7 percent on a constant currency basis, respectively.


Net sales from shoes, apparel and accessories increased by 21 percent to 484.7 million Swiss francs, 16.7 percent to 19.7 million Swiss francs and 36.8 percent to 3.8 million Swiss francs, respectively. Net sales from shoes, apparel and accessories increased by 29.3 percent, 24.9 percent, 42.9 percent on a constant currency basis, respectively.


Gross profit increased by 23.9 percent to 303.3 million Swiss francs, while gross profit margin increased to 59.7 percent. Net income increased by 106 percent to 91.4 million Swiss francs, and net income margin increased to 18 percent.


Basic earnings per share (EPS) increased to 0.28 Swiss francs and diluted EPS also increased to 0.28 Swiss francs. Adjusted EBITDA increased by 27 percent to 77.4 million Swiss francs, while adjusted EBITDA margin increased to 15.2 percent.


Adjusted net income increased to 106.5 million Swiss francs, adjusted basic and diluted EPS increased to 0.33 Swiss francs.


“We are starting 2024 with very high confidence and a whole lot of excitement, achieving record net sales and profitability in the first quarter. Hellen Obiri's win at the marathon in Boston highlights our team's relentless dedication to delivering cutting-edge and sustainable innovations to athletes and consumers alike," added Caspar Coppetti, co-founder and executive co-chairman of On.


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Zalando co-founder David Schneider steps down as Co-CEO

Zalando SE Management Board Credits: Zalando



European fashion and lifestyle e-tailer Zalando has confirmed that its co-founder David Schneider is stepping down as co-chief executive officer to focus on group-wide strategic partnerships and brand relations.


Schneider is handing over his role as co-chief executive officer to David Schröder, Zalando’s current chief operating officer, who has been part of the e-tailer’s senior management team since 2010, serving as chief financial officer until 2022 and senior vice president convenience until 2019.


Schröder will operate as co-chief executive officer alongside Zalando co-founder Robert Gentz, who is continuing in his current co-chief executive officer role. Zalando stated that Schröder will be responsible for scaling the business-to-business (B2B) growth, as well as further developing Zalando’s unique capabilities and infrastructure, and Gentz will focus on expanding the e-tailers business-to-consumer (B2C) growth to make the Berlin-based online retailer “the go-to-destination for quality fashion, lifestyle shopping and inspiration”.


Schneider’s new role will see him focusing on building partner relationships across Zalando's B2C and B2B ambitions and on further positioning the Zalando brand.


On the management changes, Schneider, who co-founded Zalando with Gentz in 2008, said in a statement: “One of Zalando’s strengths has always been to adapt our strategy and rotate the roles and responsibilities of its strong leadership team to make sure everyone complements each other and serves the ever-changing needs of customers and partners.


“We are thrilled that David Schröder, who has been an integral part of Zalando's success story since the early days in 2010, will take on the co-CEO role to scale our B2B growth vector. On a personal note, I’m excited to focus even more on serving the needs of partners, lifting our deep partnerships across the industry to the next level.”


Zalando makes management changes to support ‘ecosystem’ strategy




The changes have been announced to support Zalando’s new 'ecosystem' strategy announced in March, designed to target a larger share of the fashion e-commerce market by developing both its B2B and B2C businesses. The new approach it states will help it drive growth, offer the best shopping experience in fashion and lifestyle, as well as elevate existing categories such as sports and kids and family while building the B2B arm into a multi-billion-euro business.


To assist its new strategy, the e-tailer also announced that from September 1, chief people officer Astrid Arndt would take on additional responsibilities to strengthen Zalando’s corporate functions, while chief financial officer Sandra Dembeck will be responsible for driving the strategy through “prudent financial management that allows both strategic investments in Zalando's long-term growth and continues the company's continuous margin expansion”.


Kelly Bennett, chairperson of the Zalando supervisory board, added: “15 years after Zalando was founded, new commercial opportunities are opening up as consumers and partners have new expectations and needs.


“The adjusted management board responsibilities will help this strong group of executives and Zalando’s first-class teams from around 140 countries execute the ecosystem strategy in the most impactful way and embrace the exciting opportunities ahead of them.”


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Dior unveils capsule collection with Stone Island

Dior Men x Stone Island capsule collection Credits: Dior Men x Stone Island shot by Ethan Hart



In Pictures


French luxury fashion house Dior has unveiled a capsule collaboration with Italian heritage brand Stone Island that launches this July.


In a statement, Dior said the collaboration came from a “shared passion for perfection and excellence in processes and clothing shapes,” and celebrates the legacy of Christian Dior and that of Massimo Osti, the founder of Stone Island.


Dior Men x Stone Island capsule collection Credits: Dior Men x Stone Island shot by Ethan Hart



Headed by Dior Men’s creative director Kim Jones, the collection combines “the romance, rigor and history of the Parisian haute couture atelier” with that of the northern Italian fashion brand’s “mastery of machine processes and meticulous functional detailing".


“There is a meeting of Monsieur Dior and Massimo Osti’s work for Stone Island in this collection – it is the coming together of ‘obsessives,’ explained Jones. “They might have been people from opposite ends of the fashion spectrum – from an haute couture vision to that of military functionality – yet I think they’d recognise something in each other and in what they achieved through clothing. Here, in the coming together of contrasting traditions, there’s a kind of clothing alchemy.”


Dior Men x Stone Island capsule collection Credits: Dior Men x Stone Island shot by Ethan Hart



The collection merges the haute couture roots and tailoring traditions of Dior with the functionality and utilitarian shapes of Stone Island to create a masculine clothing collection featuring ready-to-wear, footwear and accessories.


Highlights include a black lambskin aged effect field jacket, which takes inspiration from a 20th-century aviator style, featuring a joint Dior and Stone Island badge, black and grey bomber jackets adorned with embroidered flowers, and a patch and pocket-heavy parkas, waistcoats and cargo trousers.


The collection also features a series of signs and symbols that unite the houses in the collection, from the discreet to the more direct, including Dior’s ‘double pleat’ tailoring motif and Stone Island’s ‘dutch rope’ system for attaching and detaching.


Dior Men x Stone Island capsule collection Credits: Dior Men x Stone Island shot by Ethan Hart



Dior Men x Stone Island capsule collection Credits: Dior Men x Stone Island shot by Ethan Hart


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Eastside Golf launches women’s line

Eastside Golf women’s collection Credits: Eastside Golf



Black-owned Eastside Golf, launched in 2019 to shift the culture of golf on and off the course to make the sport more inclusive, has launched its debut women’s apparel collection.


The 20-piece women’s collection has been crafted with the needs of seasoned players, youthful enthusiasts and newcomers in mind and features a two-piece tracksuit, banded crop tees, jumpsuit, and pique polos, skorts and dresses, which all feature Eastside Golf’s script or swingman logo.


The pieces aim to support both fashion and function with many pieces having functional hidden pockets, perfect for tees, golf balls, valuables, sunglasses and keys, while the hats have been designed to be comfortable for a variety of hairstyles and textures and feature a satin lining to protect hair.


Olajuwon Ajanaku, co-founder and creative director of Eastside Golf, said in a statement: "Since our early days, we've had women purchasing Eastside Golf items for themselves, and asking us when we'd be entering the women's category. But we didn't want to 'shrink and pink' our existing products; we wanted to create something authentic and considered.


“This is why we dedicated additional resources to bringing on designers with extensive expertise in women's apparel to create items that are both fashionable and functional, and equally at home on the street or in the clubhouse. We have had our eye on entering the women's category for a long time, and we are thrilled to bring this to life in our first collection.”


Earl Cooper, co-founder and chief executive of Eastside Golf, added: "As a fashion brand rooted in golf, we are making a brand for golfers and non-golfers alike. Our clothes are designed to feel good both on and off the course.


“We are serving women who have, up to this point, not been served by golf apparel brands in the way they deserve - they do not have the clothing options that men do, despite making up a sizeable, and increasing, portion of the golf-playing community.”


The collection will be released in three phases in May via Eastside Golf's website and through its app.


Eastside Golf has established itself as a leader in golf apparel and accessories by leveraging fashion to change the cultural perception and conversation around golf. It has been worn by the likes of NBA stars Chris Paul and Jayson Tatum, NFL players Patrick Mahomes and Victor Cruz, musician DJ Khaled and President Barack Obama. It has also collaborated on seven collaborations with the Jordan Brand and has strategic partnerships and licensing deals with the NBA, MLB, and Mercedes-Benz USA.


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Bared Footwear opens first US store

Bared Footwear New York City store Credits: Bared Footwear



In Pictures


Australian footwear brand Bared Footwear has opened its first US store in New York City, expanding its global footprint after 15 years of predominantly selling footwear in its home country of Australia.


Located on Spring Street, in New York City’s SoHo neighbourhood, the store marks the brand’s first brick-and-mortar location outside of Australia and is described as a “major milestone” for the brand following exponential growth from its US customer base through its online business.


Commenting on the opening, Anna Baird, founder and owner of Bared Footwear, said in a statement: “Opening the doors to our first store outside of our home country of Australia is a significant landmark for the brand as we look to scale our business in the U.S. and around the world.


“New York is well known as one of the biggest walking cities in the world, so we knew it was the perfect place to start. I’m confident that New Yorkers will love our team of experts and once they try our shoes, they will be addicted to the comfort and support that our footwear provides everyone.”


Bared Footwear expands outside Australia with a new store in New York City




Bared Footwear New York City store Credits: Bared Footwear



Built by the tram at Turnkey & Bespoke and designed by Ryann Swan Design, a New York-based interior design firm, the new space aims to feel welcoming through the use of natural and textural materials as well as lush greenery to encourage shoppers to slow down and take their time in the store.


The store will carry the brand’s extensive range of products for men and women across categories, including an early release of some of the brand's 2025 summer collection, before its launch in Australia. It will also offer customers its unique and custom fitting process for each pair of shoes purchased, a service similar to the one in its Australia flagship locations.


Bared Footwear currently operates five flagship brick-and-mortar stores in Australia, with New York bringing the total to six. In July, the brand states it will open its first retail location in New Zealand and is targeting Los Angeles next.


Baird, a podiatrist-turned-entrepreneur, founded Bared Footwear in 2008 to offer “shoes that look good and feel it, too”. Each pair of shoes has a “cloud-like” biomechanical footbed and hidden support elements that provide all-day foot support and cushioned comfort by preventing discomfort by reducing pressure in the ball of the foot and cushioning the heel with shock absorption support.


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India's luxury market poised for expansion, says Barclays

Louis Vuitton, Bangkok store Credits: Louis Vuitton



India's luxury market is primed for substantial growth, according to Barclays, with forecasts indicating an annual expansion of 15 percent to 25 percent over the next seven years. This trajectory could elevate the market's value to an impressive 23 billion euros to 38 billion euros. The driving force behind this surge, Barclays notes, is India’s burgeoning middle class.


Despite currently representing a modest 2 percent share of global luxury sales, major Indian cities play pivotal roles in catering to the country's affluent demographic, hosting a significant 90 percent of the nation's luxury retail infrastructure, reported India fashion outlet DFU. New Delhi, for instance, boasts a notable concentration of affluent families and is home to India's first Louis Vuitton outlet, established in 2003.


Mumbai is home to India's largest luxury shopping mall




Mumbai distinguishes itself with the Jio World Plaza, the nation's largest luxury shopping complex sprawled across 750,000 square feet, housing brands such as Louis Vuitton, Dior, Gucci, and Cartier. Notably, this project is reportedly linked to a potential 3 billion dollars acquisition of the Neiman Marcus Group, DFU said.


Bengaluru, recognised as India's tech and IT hub, is also carving a niche in the luxury market. The inauguration of the Mall of Asia in October underscores the city's emerging status as a luxury destination.


Galeries Lafayette, the renowned French department store group, aims to establish a presence in Mumbai and New Delhi through partnerships with developer Aditya Birla, as reported by DFU, India's fashion news outlet. Simultaneously, Christian Louboutin has recently initiated a joint venture with Aditya Birla to penetrate the Indian market.


Barclays' insights highlight growth potential for various brands, with positive feedback received from mall operators. "Beyond Gucci, we also hear positive feedback around Saint Laurent and Balenciaga. Outside of Kering, brands like Louis Vuitton, Chanel, and Dior were also flagged as popular during our discussions," stated the report.


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Lingerie brand PrimaDonna uses new technologies to help create more inclusive collections

Credits: Crédit photo : PrimaDonna



From its beginnings, PrimaDonna, the flagship underwear brand of Belgian group Van de Velde, has positioned itself on the aspect of inclusiveness even though the term is far from being democratized in the fashion and lingerie industry. More than 150 years after its founding, the company continues to bring together loyal customers and attract new consumers. To FashionUnited, Carole Lambert, head of creation and development at Van de Velde, explains how the brand is introducing artificial intelligence and digital tools to meet the needs of its customers.


Combining know-how and new technologies




“We work, I like to say, between craftsmanship and futurism,” shares Carole Lambert. For several years, PrimaDonna has invested massively in innovation, without abandoning its traditional know-how, crucial to the brand. It is then a question of combining these two features equally: “know-how, an eye and human technicality on the one hand with digital tools, in particular for analyzing information on the other."


The brand recently introduced mannequins designed using artificial intelligence (AI). On this subject, Carole Lambert declares that it is a beautiful application, showing the way in which new technologies can serve a sensitive, emotional message. The mannequins were designed to create a feeling of identification and connection among women, who can thus visualize how the underwear would look on a body close to their own. However, Lambert is keen to point out that human activity is enhanced by artificial intelligence, and not replaced. “We invest a lot of time and human resources in understanding women’s bodies in order to better represent them. These models are the result of all the customer data that we have previously collected in order to better represent them."


Building consumer loyalty: an optimized offer and customer experience




PrimaDonna maintains a special relationship with its community, even before the first modern means of communication was introduced. “It is certain that social networks increase the possibility of communication,” declares Carole Lambert, before adding: “We have always received a lot of love through letters, then Facebook comments and now on Instagram where women explain to us their encounter with the brand and how it changed the relationship they have with their body."


The reason for PrimaDonna, explains Carole Lambert, is to offer the same style to women with sizes larger than those with so-called standard sizes, without compromising on support and comfort. The brand then focuses on the quality and effectiveness of the products it markets. “We realized that from certain sizes onwards, the frames and straps lacked strength. We therefore invested in research to overcome this problem,” underlines Lambert.


“When the body positivism movement and the term 'inclusive' appeared and became popular, we said to ourselves: “this is what we have been doing all along”. However, it is true that we took our time a little to dare to assert and position ourselves as such." Today, more and more underwear brands offer a wide range of sizes. Despite the emergence of new competing companies, offering items at low prices, Carole Lambert remains confident. PrimaDonna has a high loyalty rate, estimated at 83 percent. “As soon as the customer comes into contact with the brand, she adheres to its offer, to its universe."


The loyalty that customers maintain towards the brand also comes from the customer experience, declares Carole Lambert. In store, salespeople are carefully trained to advise and reassure the most hesitant customers, in a warm atmosphere. She admits, however, that retail distribution is currently experiencing bad days, with consumers now turning more easily to online purchases for reasons of location or comfort. In fact, PrimaDonna must respond to new challenges, in order to satisfy increasingly connected customers.


This article was originally published on FashionUnited.FR, translated and edited to English.


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Slow fashion marketplace Upconic wants to bring back appreciation for clothing

Interview


Vegan dress with pockets in Orchid by Nina Rein.  Credits: Nina Rein via Upconic



What are sustainable brands and how can one find them? How can one bundle like-minded brands that appeal to a common target group? Isabell Conrad asked herself these and other questions after spending much time and energy searching for sustainable designer fashion and slow fashion online. For the business graduate, the matter was clear - draw up a business plan and see whether a marketplace for sustainable fashion would make commercial sense. It did. FashionUnited spoke with Conrad about founding Upconic, an online marketplace for slow fashion, sustainable designer clothing and accessories.   


What was your motivation behind setting up a marketplace for sustainable designer fashion for women?




I wasn't actually focussed on founding, the approach was more “what bothers me in life, where do I want to create change?”. I wanted to do something with an impact, even if it was only a small impact. I always liked the dress code in the office, but I realised that I was always buying the same brands - Max Mara, Boss and Strenesse. 


Fashion brands are also very harmful in terms of environmental impact.  So I started looking for sustainable brands for premium women's fashion and realised that searching online can be a very tedious process. So I asked myself, “why isn't there one place where you can find cool, sustainable fashion?”. And so the idea for Upconic was born.


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How did you come up with the name and what does it mean? 




I wanted something that was short and memorable, but also international. So I played around with a few word combinations and “upwards” and “iconic” clicked and merged into “Upconic”. I deliberately avoided any reference to recycling or eco. 


(Em)power suit by Suitition, made in Europe from recycled materials. Credits: Suitition via Upconic



Who is your target group? 




They are young, urban women between 25 and 50 who are looking for a certain lifestyle.  
I wanted to create a lifestyle marketplace that is sustainable. And where the appreciation for clothing can come back, away from the throwaway culture.


 


How has the platform been received?




The response is positive; many people say “I have been looking for something like this“.


What brands are currently available?




There's Katharina Funke-Braun with her brand Limo, which stands for “less is more”. She offers high-quality, minimalist and easy-to-combine fashion for women by upcycling discarded materials. 
Charlotte Piller and Nhu Ha Dao are behind Berlin brand Lotta Ludwigson, which takes a circular approach to its business attire for women. Setery from Munich by Hanna Greis offers a sustainable office wardrobe that is also suitable for other occasions. 


L'amour est blue by Thien Huynh from Berlin specialises in sustainable and timeless slow fashion womenswear, while Bogdana Nuss captures the zeitgeist with Iva Rych. Julia Ickert offers fair fashion with her brand Nina Rein and Wote produces minimalist women's and men's fashion made in Italy and Portugal. Suitition, as the name suggests, offers power suits for women.


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Leggings made from organic cotton and modal by Wote (left), blazer dress and flared skirt by Setery (middle and right). Credits: Wote and Setery via Upconic



What are the criteria brands need to fulfil for being included in the marketplace? 




All brands must be sustainable and offer timeless women's fashion or accessories. Humane and fair production is essential. There are several approaches to sustainable materials, such as recycled materials (but no polyester), or the items being certified sustainable, such as leather or cashmere from responsible sources. What I also consider sustainable is the use of deadstock. 


How do you verify that?




I had long discussions with the founders and did a lot of research on the internet. 


I also look at how sustainable the production itself is; is there CO2 offsetting? Is electricity produced in-house? Is there a zero-waste approach? Production in Germany or nearby is also very important - the current labels actually mainly produce in Germany, the EU and one in Ukraine. Charitable initiatives, such as water projects, are desirable, but not a must. Likewise vegan products. 


How does the platform work for participating brands? 




With low costs on both sides. There is no onboarding fee for the brands, they only pay a commission of 20 percent on sold articles and ship the items themselves. So there are no storage costs for me. Everything is automatic; as I come from the IT sector, I knew how best to connect the Shopify ordering systems. I create the article pages and especially the descriptions for the articles myself so that everything is standardised.


And how does it work for customers?




What is important here is how good the customer journey is. Useful filters are particularly important - for example, for the colour, neckline, sleeve length or the collar shape of a desired item. Existing platforms often don't live up to expectations and needs in this respect. Plastic-free will soon be added as a new criterion at Upconic.


What does the future hold for Upconic? 




Definitely bringing more labels on board. Then also expanding the womenswear range - we currently have 230 items, which should be four to five times as many, but of course while maintaining the excellent customer experience. At some point, menswear could also be added. It is also important to build an ecosystem of like-minded brands and solve common problems together. This involves a lot of dialogue with the labels. Then, in time, the expansion of the range to Europe.


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