Friday, July 14, 2023

Stylitics snaps up Wide Eyes in bid to internationally expand AI capabilities

Stylitics AI styling technology. Credits: Stylitics. AI-powered digital merchandising and styling technology Stylitics has announced the acquisition of Barcelona-based Wide Eyes as it looks to expand on its artificial intelligence (AI) capabilities. Through the takeover, Stylitics is hoping for Wide Eyes to enhance its e-commerce platform with image recognition and AI tech that makes product discovery easier. Like its acquirer, Wide Eyes is also based around AI tech, offering users visual content via search solutions and image-based shopping, as well as product attribution and data enrichment. The takeover comes as Stylitics plans to grow its presence in Europe and the UK, with the new teams in Spain to help service growth with retail clients across the EU. Wide Eyes team of engineers and customer professionals will be joining Stylitics as part of the acquisition, alongside the firm’s chief executive officer and co-founder, Luis Manent, and other key executives. According to Stylitics, its own offerings have driven over four billion dollars in incremental revenue, with capabilities also supporting an increase in product discovery and basket size, as well as transactions and average order value. From its New York base, the firm works with a range of global fashion and footwear brands, including Macy’s, Kohl’s, Revolve and Puma. Speaking on its latest acquisition, Stylitics’ founder and CEO, Rohan Deuskar, said: “Wide Eyes’ AI systems and computer vision technology are based on several years of cutting-edge R&D, and are widely used by many of Europe’s top retailers. “We’re excited to bring these advanced capabilities and benefits to our retail customers and their shoppers, and look forward to sharing several feature expansions later this fall.”
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Independent designers accuse Shein of extortion and intellectual property infringement

Shein pop-up store. Credits: Shein. Chinese fast fashion giant Shein has been accused of "large-scale and systematic theft of the intellectual property of major and minor American designers" and of committing infringement-related extortion, The Fashion Law wrote. Independent designers, Krista Perry, Larissa Martinez and Jay Baron claimed Shein is responsible for violating copyrights and trademarks in connection with "producing, distributing and selling exact copies of their creative works. This is an essential part of the design process and Shein's DNA, according to the designers, the media outlet added. The designers filed their complaint in a US court last Tuesday. In their complaint, the designers argued that "there is no Coco Chanel or Yves Saint Laurent behind the Shein empire". Instead, there is a mysterious technical genius behind it who has made Shein "the best clothing company in the world through high-end technology and not high-end design," the notice read. Specifically, Perry, Martinez and Baron claimed that Shein has "made billions of dollars by creating a secret algorithm that amazingly determines emerging fashion trends and linking it to a corporate structure, including manufacturing and fulfillment programme". This would also seamlessly comply with a variety of illegal elements. The plaintiffs claimed "that the algorithm could not come to work without it generating the copies that could greatly harm an independent designer's career". "Shein's artificial intelligence is smart enough to misappropriate the pieces with the greatest commercial potential," the plaintiffs said, according to TFL.
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Black tape and sparkles: Miami Swim Week attempts to distract amid diversity criticism

The Blonds swimwear SS24, Miami Swim Week. Credits: Launchmetrics Spotlight. Miami Swim Week has come to a close, and with it has the event’s surrounding controversy that dictated discussions on social media over its duration. Spanning July 4 to 12, around 50 industry and public events were held; some by distinguished labels like Desigual and Nike, others by more emerging names. While the schedule seemed vast in its size, the swim week was not able to curb criticism from the general public, as heated debates on its existence came into play and heightened as the week progressed. Online, social media users expressed their dissatisfaction in the diversity of models, some stating that all the models looked the same, while others questioned why swim week needed to be held at all. One user said: “I’m confused. Wasn’t Victoria’s Secret’s runway shows cancelled because of the unobtainable body shapes among models? How come this fashion show can take place? Can’t understand the fashion world.” Matte Collections SS24, Miami Swim Week. Credits: Launchmetrics Spotlight. Concern and backlash was further emphasised following the raunchy show of ‘The Black Tape Project’. The collection consisted of duct tape bikinis pasted onto models in skimpy shapes, a concept developed by Joel Alvarez. While the controversial project has been around since 2018, it had most recently been exhibited at the previous New York Fashion Week in February, after which Alvarez declared it was to be his “final” show. However, evidently the concept returned to Miami Swim Week, with the proclamation actually made in regards to Alvarez’s name change, as he revealed that he now goes by Drakhan Blackhart. Alongside his identity refresh, the designer’s looks have seemingly ramped up the ‘sex-appeal’, with increasingly minuscule designs defining the project’s line for SS24. Black Tape Project SS24, Miami Swim Week. Credits: Launchmetrics Spotlight. It would be unfair to generalise the event as undiverse in its entirety, when many of the brands on the schedule had clearly put this value to the forefront. This was something that also translated into their presentations, as seen at Lovechella Swimwear, Michael Costello and Curve Collective, where models’ appearances varied greatly. Next to this, Miami Swim Week also helped to define what to expect from swimwear in the coming seasons. FashionUnited highlighted some of the standout trends from the week. Mermaidcore SS24 Miami Swim Week. (From left) Diva Couture, Cirone Swim and Pink Melon Swimwear. Credits: Launchmetrics Spotlight. The topic of diversity has also heightened in recent months partially due to the release of Disney’s reimagining of The Little Mermaid, for which Black actress Halle Bailey was assigned the leading role of Ariel. However, while keyboard warriors continue to debate whether Bailey was the right choice for the children's film, it is clear that its influence has gone beyond the big screen alone, making its way into a slew of swimwear collections for the coming season. Amid theatrical displays of men wielding golden tridents, models strutted down runways in eye-catching two pieces, complete with shell or coral shaped bikini tops bejeweled with excessive sparkles. Beach cowboys SS24 Miami Swim Week. (From left) Lain Snow, Axil Swim and Liliana Montoya. Credits: Launchmetrics Spotlight. Like its streetwear counterparts, Miami Swim Week saw an influx of the wild west take to the runways, as models, both children and adults, donned snazzy iterations of rodeo-wear. As seen in the attendees of fashion weeks and Pitti Uomo, it seems cowboys are at the height of fashion right now, influencing collections in a not-so-subtle way. For swim week, this was evident in the use of over-the-top western boots and elevated cowboy hats, as well as more subtle details like fringing or tassels. The 80s are calling SS24 Miami Swim Week. (From left) The Blonds, One One and Sense of G. Credits: Launchmetrics Spotlight. While taking cues from eras past is nothing new in the world of fashion, the presence of the retro 80s could not be missed this swim week. Among skating models, neon legwarmers and graphic prints, the “power dressing” decade was a definitive source of inspiration for swimwear brands and their SS24 collections. Its prominence also reflected our current period of time as, akin to the 80s, current consumers are continuing to ascend into a fitness craze, a behaviour that had also influenced the rise of stylish gym wear back in the “decade of decadence”. Lingerie as swimwear SS24 Miami Swim Week. (From left) Beach Bunny, Curve Collective and Lovechella Swimwear. Credits: Launchmetrics Spotlight. While swimwear is undoubtedly a strong market at the moment (according to analyst ResearchandMarkets.com, the sector is forecast to grow to 28.84 billion dollars in 2027), lingerie is still a category that cannot be ignored. In fact, a report by Kantar stated that lingerie accounted for 12 percent of a woman's spending, compared to the 1.6 percent bathing suits contribute. Therefore, it is no surprise that underwear was an eminent factor for many swimwear brands that chose to exhibit both categories alongside each other for their Miami shows. Read more: * Swimwear market: At Curve SS24 show, swimwear is worth gold Pregnancy bumps as an accessory SS24 Miami Swim Week. (From left) Club L London, Natasha Tonic and Liliana Montoya. Credits: Launchmetrics Spotlight. For some, the event was an opportunity to either announce their pregnancy or further reiterate that they were in fact pregnant. While models Chanel Iman, Blanca Aljibes and Jena Sims showed off their bumps on the runway, WWE champion Carmella was another to put her pregnancy in the spotlight. The presence of such models helped Miami Swim Week to further distance itself from the backlash spurred on by other shows, presenting a more inclusive take on swimwear and the types of bodies it can tend to. Sparkle and shine SS24 Miami Swim Week. (From left) Michael Costello x Revolve, Sinesia Karol and OMG Swimwear. Credits: Launchmetrics Spotlight. Metallics were a popular choice for swimsuit materials this year. Whether iridescent, sparkley or in a classic shine, the effect could be seen in almost every collection that graced the runway. While silver appeared to be the most popular in the way of colour, iterations could also be seen in a vast array of different tones, each one just as futuristic as the rest. Many of the looks came in the form of two-pieces, however bathing suits were also popular; some with cut-out details, others providing more coverage.
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Thursday, July 13, 2023

Fashion and sustainability in June 2023

Tree Girl. Illustration: Jackie Mallon The month of June was all about sharing information - about new materials, EU legislation and industry pioneers who are driving sustainability in the textile and apparel sector. Sustainability was also the key point on the agenda at the Global Fashion Summit. Product and material innovations In March, the sustainability-oriented footwear provider Allbirds announced a shoe that would be produced without generating CO2 emissions. Now the “M0.0NSHOT” was unveiled at the Global Fashion Summit in Copenhagen by Allbirds' co-founder and head of innovation Tim Brown. He provided the instructions right away, as the company has made the complete production approach available as an open-source tool. Swiss bag label Freitag presented its first fully recyclable backpack made from just one material - polyamide 6. Now the first circular backpack that does not require any truck tarpaulin is set to go into production. London-based Arda Biomaterials developed a leather-like material made from beer, or more precisely, barley waste, that does not require any plastic backing at all. Thanks to a recent cash injection of 1.3 million euros, founders Edward Mitchell and Brett Cotten expect to deliver a finished material within 12 months. Spanish fashion retailer Inditex and the Spanish finishing specialist for sustainable clothing Jeanologia have been thinking about how to produce garments in a more environmentally friendly way: together they have developed the “Air Fiber Washer”, the first industrial air system that captures microfibres during the production of garments (up to 60 per cent) and thus reduces their subsequent discarding in household laundry. Collaboration In a bid to build a circular solution for creating new materials, biotech company Spiber has launched a biosphere circulation programme allowing for the upcycling of biobased and biodegradable textiles and agricultural waste. Joining the programme are Spiber’s long-term partners, sustainable apparel brand Pangaia and sportswear label Goldwin, through which the firm hopes to catalyse the transition to circular reuse models. UPM Biochemicals, in collaboration with Central Saint Martins (CSM), University of the Arts London (UAL), has embarked on an innovative design partnership aimed at showcasing the transition to renewable and circular materials across various industries. UPM is actively developing climate-neutral materials derived from sustainably sourced hardwood, poised to replace fossil-based materials in applications ranging from fashion and footwear to automotive and furniture. The UK Fashion & Textile Association (UKFT) has announced a series of new government-funded projects centred around textile recycling infrastructure, circular fashion and sustainable manufacturing. For support, ACT UK has brought together a consortium of recycling firms, academia, manufacturers and industry associations, among others, including project partners like Marks & Spencer, Tesco, Pangaia, New Look, Reskinned, Oxfam and Textile Recycling International. Global Fashion Summit According to observations by Jonathan Anderson, founder and creative director of LVMH-owned luxury label JW Anderson, the younger generation is currently driving the pace when it comes to sustainability in luxury fashion. In a presentation at the Global Fashion Summit, he elaborated on this view. Luxury fashion brands need to work together if the industry is to bring about sustainable change, said Antoine Arnault, head of image and environment at French luxury giant LVMH. He also explained why the company decided against joining the Fashion Pact four years ago. The consensus of the summit was that ‘less talk, more action’ is needed. To help brands and retailers along, especially in their marketing efforts, UNEP and UN Climate Change released a sustainable fashion playbook at the summit. Trailblazers In an industry that thrives on constant change, a handful of fashion brands have broken away from convention and decided on timeless clothing collections instead. Their seasonless business models have proven remarkably resilient during the pandemic, when many apparel companies suffered from overstocking and supply chain issues. FashionUnited explored whether they could offer a viable alternative to overproduction and other wasteful practices in the fickle world of fashion. Since 2017, Solidaridad Europe and the Pesticide Action Network UK (PAN UK) have published their annual cotton ranking - a look at the biggest cotton consumers among international clothing brands and retailers and their sourcing practices. The ranking analyses their public goals and strategies, the proportion of sustainable cotton they use and the transparency of their supply chain. The key finding of the 2023 Cotton Ranking: only nine fashion companies source cotton in a sustainable way. Meanwhile, the Armani Group announced a pilot project to develop agroforestry cotton production. Danish fashion brand Ganni and California start-up Rubi, which is pioneering carbon-negative cellulosic textiles, debuted the first-ever yarn made directly from carbon emissions through a fully enzymatic process. Breaking new ground, British slow fashion label Couture To Your Door (CTYD) is making the world of luxury accessible to all with a timeless and elegant collection that is customisable and eco-friendly. FashionUnited spoke to CTYD founder and designer Maria Loria via email about the appeal of well-designed clothing that can be customised and last a lifetime. Fashion outlet platform Otrium, in collaboration with carbon tracking software Vaayu, published an analysis on saving CO2 emissions and textile waste through off-price business models. Last but not least, New York City brand Anybagclaims to create fully recycled tote bags and accessories on a purely zero waste model. Through collecting plastic bags from a range of secondhand sources, founder Alex Dabagh is targeting both the city’s procurement of plastic waste and fashion’s ecological ramifications within his multi-generational, family-owned factory. Also read: * H&M's response to allegations of dumping textile waste in Global South highlights industry’s problems * Agile supply chains: Shein, BCG and GoodOps discuss challenges and opportunities * Retailers must have better engagement with their supply chains to claim green credentials * The fashion industry is lagging when it comes to circularity * From workers' rights to ending fast fashion: The EU is cracking down on fashion’s malpractices * European Parliament approves draft law to improve environmental, social practices of supply chains
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Wednesday, July 12, 2023

Gucci receives certification for gender parity in Italy

Gucci, Cruise 2024 Credits: Gucci Gucci has become the first Italian luxury fashion house to receive a certification for gender parity in Italy, as outlined in the Italian government’s National Recovery and Resilience Plan. The recognition acknowledges the fashion house’s commitment to diversity, equity, and inclusion and was achieved through a voluntary evaluation process audited by Bureau Veritas, a leading global provider of inspection, compliance verification, and certification services. The external evaluation audit process assessed Gucci’s progress across six areas: culture and strategy, governance, human resources processes, opportunities for women's growth and inclusion, gender pay equity, and parenting protection, as well as work-life balance for which it received “positive evaluations”. Bureau Veritas highlighted Gucci for establishing a Global Equity Board and Gender Equality Steering Committee, as well as the luxury label’s comprehensive parental-leave policies, welfare services, and hybrid work model. In addition, its commitment to addressing gender-related issues and unconscious biases while promoting professional growth was praised. Marco Bizzarri, president and chief executive of Gucci, said in a statement: "This achievement, reached ahead of European trends and as the first in the luxury industry in Italy, strongly reaffirms our commitment to a culture that values equity, inclusivity, and respect. "Through concrete actions such as adopting innovative technologies to reduce bias in the selection process, closing the gender pay gap, implementing parental leave policies, fostering greater female representation in leadership roles, and public awareness campaigns such as Gucci Chime - our global campaign for gender equality - we support change and promote cultural transformation in the luxury and fashion industry worldwide, and we will continue to do so.”
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Tuesday, July 11, 2023

Crocs and Joybees go head-to-head over corporate trade secrets

Egonlab, "phygital" collaboration of NFTs from Egonlab and Crocs, as part of the "Egonimati" collection for the FW22 season. Credits: Egonlab x Crocs. Footwear specialists Crocs and Joybees have taken to court in a clash over intellectual property, market competition and trade secrets. The duo have each filed competing claims against the other in a Colorado federal court, the most recent being initiated by Crocs, which accused its rival of unfair competition. Crocs’ came just one day after Joybees filed a similar complaint in the same court against its competitor, with the Colorado-based firm claiming that Crocs was attempting to monopolise the market for “injection-moulded clogs”. In the counterclaim, Joybees alleged that Crocs was abusing this power through “exclusive and conditional dealings”, with the company also seeking a declaration that its shoes had not violated Crocs’ intellectual property. The filings build on a long-standing feud between the two footwear brands, initially fired up in 2021 when Crocs first sued Joybees, alleging that Kellen McCarvel, a former Crocs employee turned Joybee CEO, had stolen proprietary information following his exit. The claim was further expanded on in Crocs’ latest lawsuit, where the company outlined additional alleged theft in regards to “specifications, standards and test and audit methods that dictate the quality and performance of the shoe material”. According to the suit, Joybees allegedly hired the help of former and current Crocs’ employees with the aim of making footwear in a similar manufacturing process to the latter, as it looked to “piggyback off” Crocs’ success.
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Monday, July 10, 2023

Marc Jacobs collaborates with Blumarine

Credits: Heaven by Marc Jacobs; Blumarine by Marc Jacobs collection In Pictures Heaven by Marc Jacobs, the Gen Z line from the US fashion designer, has launched a capsule collection with luxury label Blumarine that combines "Italian flair with American streetwear". The Blumarine by Marc Jacobs 11-piece collection features best-selling items from both brands, including pink camo print pieces, embroidered denim tops, jackets and skirts that can be mixed and matched to create full looks. The elevated collection has a romantic sensibility, combining high fashion with ultra-feminine design codes, explains both brands in the press release. Credits: Heaven by Marc Jacobs; Blumarine by Marc Jacobs collection Ava Nirui, creative director of Heaven by Marc Jacobs, said: “In my teen and college years, I fell in love with the Blumarine brand and aesthetic — it was the ultimate in feminine, aspirational fashion to me. I remember lusting after Blumarine advertisements. There was something very powerful about the way the brand depicted women, and I felt instantly moved by these images. “There are so many parallels between Blumarine and Marc Jacobs, then and now, and I think this collection makes total sense for both of us. I love the way Nicola and his team interpreted Marc and the Heaven brand codes in his very Blu way! I’m such a genuine fan of Nicola and his approach to Blumarine, and feel really lucky to have worked with him.” Credits: Heaven by Marc Jacobs; Blumarine by Marc Jacobs collection Nicola Brognano, creative director at Blumarine, added: “I was thrilled to have the opportunity to work on this project and had a lot of fun creating this special collection that merges Blumarine and Heaven by Marc Jacobs identities. Each piece of the capsule is a gem and truly reflects today’s spirit, balancing ease and coolness in the most feminine and light-hearted way.” The collection is available at Marc Jacobs and Blumarine online, at Heaven’s stores in Fairfax and London, as well as at Dover Street Market in London, New York and Los Angeles. Credits: Heaven by Marc Jacobs; Blumarine by Marc Jacobs collection Credits: Heaven by Marc Jacobs; Blumarine by Marc Jacobs collection
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