UK retail sees uptick, but challenges remain for retailers

Oxford Circus Credits: New West End Company



In response to the latest ONS Retail Sales Index figures, which indicated a 5.2 percent increase in sales by value and a 0.7 percent increase by volume, Kris Hamer, Director of Insight at the British Retail Consortium, conveyed optimistic sentiments.


Sales volumes witnessed an uptick for the second time in three months, marking a positive shift from the preceding 19 months of decline. This upturn reflects growing consumer confidence and a seasonal boost from January sales, with notable performances in categories like computing, cosmetics, and toiletries.


Hamer acknowledged that while food sales continued to outpace non-food sales, primarily due to increased inflation on these products, shoppers maintained a cautious approach as they entered the third year of grappling with the high cost of living.


Emphasizing the pivotal role of the retail sector in driving household spending and contributing to economic growth across the UK, Hamer urged the future government to recognize the sector's significance. He highlighted the challenges posed by a cumulative cost burden resulting from various policies, including rises in business rates, inadequate recycling proposals, and new border control costs.


“It is vital that our future Government recognises the importance of retail considering the cumulative cost burden created by new and existing policies. Business rates’ rises, inadequate recycling proposals, new border control costs; only by addressing these issues can the next Government unlock further investment for the country and boost local and national economic growth,” Hamer said in a statement.


Earlier this month the Treasury said it will reassess the 'tourist tax' related to VAT-free shopping in anticipation of the spring Budget, hinting at the possibility of abandoning the policy, providing a potential uplift for the retail sector.


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Nike to cut 2 percent of workforce

Nike's Singapore store. Credits: Nike



Sportswear giant Nike has confirmed mounting speculation that it is to layoff 2 percent of its workforce, a move that comes months after it launched a strategy designed to “streamline” the business.


Following an internal memo to employees from CEO John Donahoe, the company verified the decision in a statement to Footwear News that read: “Nike’s always at our best when we’re on the offence.


“The actions that we’re taking put us in the position to right-size our organisation to get after our biggest growth opportunities as interest in sport, health and wellness have never been stronger.


“While these changes will impact approximately 2 percent of our total workforce, we are grateful for the contributions made by all Nike teammates.”


Nike had previously hinted that layoffs were to be a part of its cost-saving strategy in December 2023, a plan that it said would aim to save up to two billion dollars over the next three years.


Among the possible moves it said it saw savings potential in that of simplifying product assortment, increasing automation, streamlining its organisation and leveraging scale to drive efficiency.


At the time, CFO Matthew Friend said: “As we look ahead to a softer second-half revenue outlook, we remain focused on strong gross margin execution and disciplined cost management.”


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A look into the workplace ‘bullying’ allegations against Frasers’ Missy Empire

Missy Empire online website. Credits: Missy Empire.



In a world that has seemingly taken the concepts of female empowerment and “girl bosses” under its wing, it still sometimes comes as somewhat of a shock when brands that claim to advocate for such messages are ultimately revealed to actually be doing the opposite. This is now reportedly the case for Missy Empire, a Manchester-based fast fashion retailer owned by Frasers Group, which has found itself in the midst of accusations regarding a “toxic” workplace environment.


A new report by the Guardian has unveiled a series of claims in relation to alleged bullying, abusive and degrading comments withstood by former employees of the company, all of which were able to back up their allegations through emails, screenshots and testimonials seen by the media outlet.


The company was initially co-founded by brothers Ash and Ish Siddique in 2015, who established the e-tailer as being “for the female”, while bolstering the mission of providing empowerment through clothing. While this may be the case, the report by the Guardian shows little evidence of such a goal coming through in the actual workplace of the company. In fact, 18 former employees who spoke to the publication described instances of alleged mistreatment, particularly by Ash Siddique, the managing director.


Claims regarding degrading comments, swearing and terminations without cause




These included degrading comments about models’ physical appearances, swearing at staff, employees being asked to model clothing, firing without a given reason and ignoring formal complaints. Such testimonies also suggested junior roles were made up of a predominantly young female staff who had a high rate of departures and dismissals among them, with many of those coming forward having only stayed with Missy Empire for no more than a year and a half.


Mike Ashley’s Frasers Group has also not come out of these revelations unscathed. The conglomerate, which first snapped up a majority stake in Missy Empire in June 2021 before acquiring it in December 2022 from JD Sports, had reportedly been made aware of the issues, with several complaints being brought to the attention of its human resources department. According to staff members that did share issues, however, no action was taken, with one individual also being informed that Missy Empire did not presently have a HR function back in March 2023.


While Frasers and Missy Empire have continued to maintain their silence on the allegations, a spokesperson for former owner JD told Drapers: “Missy Empire was responsible for the day-to-day running of the business, including its own HR procedures. However, as a significant shareholder in the company, Missy Empire colleagues also had the opportunity to escalate any concerns through JD’s HR department or whistleblowing policy.


"Everyone has the fundamental right to feel safe and respected at work. There were a small number of issues that were formally reported to the company during our ownership, and these were investigated fully and addressed in line with JD Group’s procedures.”


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OTB turnover increases by 7.2 percent, expands retail footprint

Maison Margiela Credits: OTB



OTB reported a turnover of 1.9 billion euros, up 10.2 percent at constant exchange rates and 7.2 percent at current exchange rates for the year to December 31, 2023.


Net sales for the year reached 1.8 billion euros, an increase from 2022 of 12.4 percent at constant exchange rates and 9.1 percent at current exchange.


The company that controls the Diesel, Jil Sander, Maison Margiela, Marni and Viktor&Rolf brands, the Staff International and Brave Kid companies, and holds a stake in the Amiri brand reported EBITDA of 348 million euros for a 19.6 percent return on net sales and EBIT of 140 million euros for a 7.9 percent return on net sales.


"I am proud of what we achieved in 2023; it was a challenging year, but our brands continued to grow in all markets, not just key locations like the USA, China and Japan, a historic market for us, but also in new areas like South Korea, which is performing very well, and other Asian markets,” said OTB Group founder and chairman Renzo Rosso.


Highlights of OTB’s annual results




The group’s direct channels recorded a 33.8 percent growth, driven by increased sales in existing stores and by 76 new openings, as a result of which the retail network had a total of 610 direct sales outlets at the end of 2023.


The company said in a statement that positive performance in Asia, with a turnover improvement of 74 percent and continued expansion in Japan, which, with 23 percent reported 19.4 percent increase, supported overall growth in 2023.


“Our results match the objectives set by the Group strategic plan, whose main growth targets are development of the direct channels and greater penetration of the Asian markets,” added OTB Group CEO Ubaldo Minelli.


The OTB Group continued to expand in 2023, with the objective of developing its international markets in areas with high potential such as the Asia-Pacific countries, including China, where it opened 30 new stores during the year; Japan and South Korea. Overall, the Asian markets represented more than 40 percent of total turnover.


The company added that there was a return to growth in North America, while performance in Europe remained stable, given the complex economic situation.


Brands under OTB portfolio post positive growth




The company also witnessed a turnaround at Diesel, which reported turnover growth of 13.1 percent.


During 2023, Diesel opened 15 new stores in Europe, China, India and North America, including flagship locations in important cities such as Paris, Miami, Antwerp and Guangzhou.


In the luxury segment, Maison Margiela’s turnover increased by 23 percent driven by China and Korea, where sales were up 72.4 percent against 2022. In 2023 the brand opened 24 new stores around the world, in cities including Venice, Beijing, Shanghai, Los Angeles, Las Vegas and Seoul and the brand opened new headquarters in Place des États-Unis in Paris’ iconic XVI arrondissement.


Jil Sander reported growth of 17.3 percent. The brand strengthened its network of direct channels in Europe, the USA, Asia-Pacific and Japan with 18 new stores in locations including Paris, Rome, Venice, Madrid, London, Dallas, Los Angeles, Tokyo, Kyoto, Nanjing and Seoul. Jil Sander also renewed its licensing agreement over a ten-year timeline with Coty for the development, production and distribution of own-brand cosmetics and fragrances.


Marni, with growth of 8.6 percent due to the expansion of its retail network – with 16 new boutiques opening in 2023 alone – and its shows taken from New York to Tokyo and Paris, spreading the brand vision and values around the world. In early 2024, Marni signed a new 20-year licensing agreement with Coty.


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A glance at New York's fashion future: Anniversaries, comebacks, and debutantes for FW24

Eckhaus Latta Fall 2024 Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight



New York Fashion Week was once the shining centre of a new guard of fashion, far removed from the heritage and prestige of Milan and Paris or the experimental creativity of London. It has somewhat fallen out of favour and fashion in recent years. Over time, New York seemed a little too commercial in taste, a little too safe and yet, at often times not commercially viable for the brands whose collections were, above all, meant to sell. While the latter continues to be an ongoing struggle with support, both monetary and otherwise, not being readily available, the fall/winter 2024 season has proven that there is more than enough young talent worthy of it. All while contrasting with some of the city's biggest success stories.


Anniversaries and New York Originals




While Marc Jacobs, who was Design Student of the Year at Parsons in 1984 and now celebrated his label's 40th anniversary, was not officially on New York Fashion Week’s schedule, his show and his enduring relevance underlined the true potential of New York’s creativity. The collection itself was driven by the idea of the mundane. Seemingly common and simple garments and shapes reminiscent of 60’s housewives were, as is often the case with Jacobs, exaggerated and yet impeccably tailored. Models walked under a large-scale sculpture of American artist Robert Therrien’s 2006 work ‘No Title (folding table and chairs, beige)’, imbuing the line with a child-like wonder, that aptly being the name of the collection. Maybe it was because Jacobs, akin to most of the industry, is aware of just how rare a continuous success story like his truly is, that he celebrated this milestone with vigour and more poignantly – and more publicly – than any before.


Marc Jacobs Fall 2024 Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight



Jacobs, however, was not the only designer in New York with plenty to celebrate. Once ‘the new kid on the block’ Joseph Altuzarra presented his 15th anniversary collection within the confines of his headquarters, choosing to only invite those who have truly supported him in the course of his career, according to Vogue Runways global director Nicole Phelps. The salon style show and the collection itself felt deeply personal, not just for the designer, but also for the customers that flock to the brand. Inspired by riding apparel and the style of Princess Diana as well as portraits of the art deco artist Tamara de Lempicka, the collection was shrouded with a sense of nostalgia but without sacrificing modernity or the modern woman in its course.


Altuzarra Fall 2023 Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight



One brand that has been in business five years longer than Altuzarra is Tory Burch. The designer opened the doors to her first store 20 years ago and has since been a fixture on the New York schedule. Recently, however, the brand has had a sort of renaissance, at least according to the Lyst Index, where it was crowned as a breakout brand a few months ago. After being nominated for Womenswear Designer of the Year by Council of Fashion Designers of America [CFDA] the brand and its pierced mules have executed a successful transformation from commercial to cult, according to the British search engine. With plenty to celebrate, the anniversary show exuded joyfulness, as models confidently walked the runway to the tunes of The Cure and Joy Division. They showcased a vibrant array of shiny frocks alongside subdued office attire ingeniously transformed into work-appropriate hoodies.


Tory Burch Fall 2024 Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight



Two New York prodigies that had no anniversaries to show for and yet plenty to celebrate this season were Proenza Schouler and Khaite. While the former, headed by boy wonders Jack McCullough and Lazaro Hernandez since 2002, has been an assured favourite among the city's it-girls from the start, Catherine Holstein’s brand Khaite has risen to cult status in a mere few years. Since the brand was founded in 2016, Holstein has been twice named designer of the year by the CFDA in 2022 and 2023, and has built a devoted following. Both brands in their own right, dress quintessential ‘cool girls’ based in the big city but while Holstein seems to have leant in to the trending ‘Mob-Wife’ aesthetic for this season – Shearling coats, gold chains, oxblood colours and lots of leather – the designer-duo at Proenza Schouler was set on clean lines, sharp tailoring and sheerness and layered staples.


Proenza Schouler (left), Khaite (right) Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight



Tommy and Thom return to the city, Ludovic De Saint Sernin makes a pit stop




Aptly titled ‘New York Moment’ Tommy Hilfiger, who has not shown since September 2022, returned to New York City this season and brought prep, nostalgia and a starry front row with him. As a designer who is synonymous with American fashion, he paid tribute to what show notes referred to as “a lifetime of memories” in the city. The show, held at Oyster Bar at Grand Central Terminal, brought classic American cool to the runway and honed in on Hilfiger trademarks such as rugby shirts with pleated skirts, baseball caps paired with shirts and ties, varsity jackets, hoodies, tweed separates and a lot of red, blue and white colours that the brand describes as “Tommy’s Americana come to life”.


Thom Browne Fall 2024 Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight



Hilfiger's return to New York was not the only notable comeback. Despite being chairman of the CFDA and therefore spearheading American fashion, Thom Browne had forgone the spring/summer 2024 presentations in September after debuting his Haute Couture collection in Paris. Upon his return to the city, Browne, ever the master showman of American fashion, closed the FW24 season with an Edgar Allan Poe-inspired collection that masterfully combined apparel of commercial appeal with endless storytelling. The collection's theme was infused with an air of mystery and without forgetting about the garments themselves. From a striking black headpiece resembling a raven to coats adorned with black birds, the designs were inventive and theatrical but at its core, wearable. Thom Browne showcased an array of coats, jackets, skirts, and trousers, some fully formed while others boasted a deconstructed aesthetic.


Thom Browne Fall 2024 Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight



One designer that slightly and surprisingly made his NYFW debut was Ludovic de Saint Sernin. The Paris-based designer has been a fixture on the Paris Fashion Week calendar since he founded his brand in 2017, yet for this season he touched down in New York. In parts, this was due to a collaboration with the Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation, founded by the photographer before his death in 1989, as well as to quench the thirst of his customer base in the US that, according to WWD makes up 32 percent of the brand’s overall sales. The runway presentation traversed a narrative arc from youthful innocence to sensual maturity. Mapplethorpe's blossoms, hand-cut in velvet, adorned sheer tops, slip dresses, and skirts, juxtaposed with De Saint Sernin's glam metal mesh designs incorporating pixelated crystals. Transitioning from sultry leather coats to bondage-inspired attire, the collection delved into darker sexual fantasies, maintaining a luxurious aesthetic throughout.


Ludovic de Saint Sernin Fall 2024 Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight



The ‘new guard’ redefining fashion in New York




De Saint Sernin is by no means the only young and exciting designer to choose New York as stage this season. Others, like Willy Chavarria, Collina Strada or Eckahaus Latta consider the bustling metropolis their home and have long made themselves heard among the big commercial names on the CFDA’s official schedule.


Much like Tommy Hilfiger once upon a time, Willy Chavarria has taken American Ivy prep and redefined it. However, while Hilfiger's prep at its core remains in the world of privilege, Chavarria has taken the inspiration and turned Americana into something much more inclusive. Dubbed ‘Safe From Harm’, the CFDA Menswear Designer of the Year's FW24 collection told a story about collectively keeping each other secure, a story he told with the help of tailoring and familiar fabrics such as tweed, herringbone, and glen plaids.


Willy Chavarria Fall 2024 Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight



Fabrics and texture played a considerable role in Eckhaus Latta’s FW collection as well. The designer duo Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta played with unique knits and non-traditional fabrics, as is typical for the brand, however this season their mood seemed to have shifted from playful to serious. The collection opened with a rendition of Lana Del Rey’s ‘hope is a dangerous thing for a girl like me to have – but I have it’, setting the tone for a slightly more subdued but in no way less accomplished collection. The brand that has been in business for 13 years now presented a collection that featured clean lines and cubist patterns, emphasising wearable wardrobe staples rather than focusing on seductive allure alone. Sheer mesh shirting, maxi dresses with satin fringes, and chest-bearing 'vests' that were reminiscent of ropes evoked the brand's talent for slicing its path in an industry where the balance between commerce and creative output seems an afterthought at times.


Eckhaus Latta Fall 2024 Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight



Creativity still reigns supreme at Luar, though this season a surprise appearance from singer Beyoncé almost outshone even the most creative of designers. Luckily, Luar’s Raul Lopez unveiled a collection that easily held its own, all while declaring the comeback of ‘the metrosexual’. Defined by the Oxford Dictionary as “a man who is usually heterosexual and is very interested in fashion, grooming, and his appearance in a way that is usually seen as being like a woman” the term and the phenomenon behind it is, or at least under Luar’s FW24 collection, rooted in the 90s. The reference was interesting given Luar's consistent gender-fluid ethos. The brand’s signature oversized boulder shoulders adorned tailored pieces, outerwear, and dresses, complemented by distinctive warped design elements. Notable moments include a dusty maroon-covered suit paired with a toffee-hued balaclava overlay and light-wash printed denim merged with a ribbed white knit top, as well as an oversized yet structured navy leather suit with fur arm detailing, juxtaposed with an ivory silk button-down and tie that summarised the collections' interplay between masculinity and femininity.


Luar Fall 2024 Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight


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HanesBrands Q4 sales drop, Champion posts sharp decline

HanesBrands headquarters Credits: HanesBrands



HanesBrands net sales for the fourth quarter of 1.3 billion dollars decreased 12 percent compared to last year. On an organic constant currency basis, net sales decreased approximately 10 percent.


The company said, Champion brand sales decreased 23 percent on a reported basis, and 24 percent on a constant currency basis, as compared to prior year.


“Our fourth quarter performance did not meet our expectations as the sales environment proved to be more challenging than expected. For 2024, we believe we’re well positioned for continued margin improvement, another year of strong cash generation and continued debt reduction,” said Steve Bratspies, the company’s CEO in a statement.


HanesBrands posts drop in Q4 sales




The company attributed the decline to approximately 130 basis points due to the U.S. Hosiery divestiture and approximately 40 basis points due to the unfavourable impact from foreign exchange rates.


Constant currency sales decline was due to the more challenging than expected global consumer environment, particularly in the U.S. activewear market and in Australia.


The company’s innerwear sales decreased approximately 1 percent or approximately 7 million dollars, as compared to prior year. Activewear sales decreased 24 percent with decreases across channels and brands in the quarter.


International sales decreased 9 percent on a reported basis and approximately 7 percent on a constant currency basis compared to prior year.


The company added that Champion U.S. sales decreased 30 percent driven by the combination of challenging activewear apparel market dynamics and the expected topline headwinds from the strategic actions HanesBrands is taking to strengthen the brand and position Champion for long-term profitable growth.


Internationally, Champion sales decreased 14 percent on a reported basis and 15 percent on a constant currency basis. Constant currency sales increased in China and Latin America, which was more than offset by decreases in Europe, Japan, and Canada.


HanesBrands operational performance in Q4




Gross profit of 494 million dollars decreased approximately 2 percent while gross margin increased 400 basis points to 38.1 percent as compared to prior year. Adjusted gross profit was 495 million dollars and adjusted gross margin of 38.2 percent increased approximately 395 basis points.


Operating profit and operating margin rose to 96 million dollars and 7.4 percent, respectively. Adjusted operating profit increased to 111 million dollars and adjusted operating margin of 8.5 percent increased approximately 295 basis points over prior year.


Income from operations totaled approximately 78 million dollars or 22 cents per diluted share, while adjusted income decreased to 12 million dollars or 3 cents per diluted share.


HanesBrands projects 4 percent drop in FY24 sales




For fiscal year 2024, the company currently expects net sales of approximately 5.35 billion dollars to 5.47 billion dollars. At the midpoint, this represents an approximate 4 percent decrease as compared to prior year on a reported basis and an approximate 2 percent decrease on an organic constant currency basis.


The company expects GAAP operating profit of approximately 430 million dollars to 450 million dollars, adjusted operating profit of approximately 500 million dollars to 520 million dollars, GAAP earnings per share of approximately 22 cents to 28 cents and adjusted earnings per share of approximately 42 cents to 48 cents.


For the first quarter, HanesBrands expects net sales of approximately 1.13 billion dollars to 1.19 billion dollars. At the midpoint, this represents an approximate 16 percent decrease on a reported basis and an approximate 14 percent decrease on an organic constant currency basis.


GAAP operating profit is expected to reach approximately 45 million dollars to 65 million dollars and adjusted operating profit of approximately 60 million dollars to 80 million dollars. GAAP loss per share is forecasted of approximately 14 cents to 8 cents and adjusted loss per share of approximately 10 cents to 4 cents.


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UK falls into recession, retail industry takes hit

Leicester, UK. Credits: Unsplash.



While it is no secret that the past year has proven to be a financially turbulent one for the UK, new data has revealed that the region had in fact fallen into recession during the final three months of last year, as the economy continued to take a hit.


According to figures by the Office for National Statistics (ONS), the UK’s gross domestic product (GDP) was estimated to have fallen 0.3 percent, down from a 0.1 percent decline the quarter prior. It marks the second consecutive quarter to experience a decrease and therefore qualifies for the status of a recession.


This comes despite the economy growing by 0.1 percent for the entirety of 2023, yet the annual growth rate remained at its weakest level since 2009, when there had been a global financial crisis.


ONS accredited the most recent declines to a fall in the volume of net trade, household spending and government consumption over the period, which it said was only “partially offset by an increase in gross capital formation”.


In terms of output, there had been negative contributions to growth from production, construction and services, the latter of which was estimated to have fallen by 0.2 percent, marking the third consecutive quarter to have seen a decline.


The wholesale and retail trade was highlighted as one of the largest contributors to the fall in total services at a 0.6 percent decline, with a 1.3 percent hit on wholesale while retail took a 0.9 percent hit.


It follows an ONS report in December 2023 that said the UK had witnessed the largest monthly decrease in retail sales since January 2021, when the pandemic restrictions had been put in place.


Inflation remains, for the most part, stable




Efforts to turn around the UK economy were a part of prime minister Rishi Sunak’s five key pledges when he took on the helm position back in 2022. Yet high inflation, escalating energy bills and a fall in consumer spending power have all remained at the height of concern.


However, while inflation hit record highs in 2022, and has slowly improved since, new data from CPI showed that inflation had remained at a lower-than-expected 4 percent, with discounts by retailers being among the factors cited as helping shoppers over the Christmas period.


Responding to the figures, Kris Hamer, director of insight of the British Retail Consortium, said in a release: “With the headline inflation rate failing to fall for the second consecutive month there is no space for complacency.


“Government should recognise the cumulative impact of their policies – from rises in business rates to its new packaging levy – at a time when minimum wages are seeing the biggest rise on record and border checks are being implemented. Ultimately, if these costs continue rising unabated, it is inevitable that they will filter back into the price paid by households.”


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Marimekko heads Rakuten Fashion Week Tokyo line up

Marimekko SS24, CPHFW. Credits: Launchmetrics Spotlight.



As we continue to descend deeper into the fashion week season, Rakuten Fashion Week Tokyo (FWT) has now unveiled a number of details for its own AW24 event, which is scheduled to take place from March 11 to 16.


At the height of the roster is Finnish label Marimekko, which will be participating in the fashion week for the first time under the support of Rakuten’s ‘By R’ initiative, designed to bolster the presence of Japanese fashion brands.


The inclusion of the brand’s show, set to take place March 15, comes as part of Rakuten’s efforts to build up the international appeal of the Japanese fashion week, while further thrusting Marimekko into the limelight for consumers in the region.


A similar approach was made last season when streetwear label BAPE was named as the ‘headliner’ for FWT, resulting in a highly anticipated show that celebrated the Japanese-originating brand’s 30th anniversary.


Similarly, Marimekko is also celebrating a milestone year, coming into the 60th anniversary of its Unikko print, a poppy design that has become synonymous with the brand itself.


On the occasion, Marimekko’s creative director, Rebekka Bay, said in a release: “Marimekko is excited to showcase at Rakuten FWT for the first time with the support of the ‘By R’ project. Throughout 2024, we celebrate the 60th anniversary of our most celebrated print, Unikko, and the AW24 collection marks its grand finale.”


Alongside Marimekko, a further 42 brands will be taking part in this season of Rakuten FWT, through fashion shows, installations and video announcements, many of which will be live streamed on a dedicated platform.

Read more:



* Marimekko CEO on modernising the brand while keeping Unikko-heritage alive






* BAPE’s Tokyo homecoming looks back on 30 years of leadership in streetwear






* Fashion Week Tokyo designers on Japan's market and broadening their horizons


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Environmental advocacy organisation files complaint against Lululemon

Credits: Lululemon



Canadian sportswear retailer Lululemon can't seem to leave controversy behind - after company founder stirred it with his diversity remarks at the beginning of the year, allegations concerning an ‘unwelcoming company culture’ lingered a few months ago. There was also a law suit by Nike a year ago, and not to forget the debacle with transparent yoga pants a few years ago. Now, the company has come under criticism again. This time it is about environmental claims in the company’s “Be Planet” campaign.


“Lululemon pollutes the planet while selling consumers on Be Planet campaign,” criticises North American environmental advocacy organisation Stand.earth. It requests an anti-competition investigation into the company’s environmental claims and has therefore lodged a complaint with the Competition Bureau Canada.


“Lululemon claims to ‘Be Planet’ but their own reporting shows that they have doubled carbon pollution since making the claim. They benefit from a carefully constructed image of environmental sustainability and wellness, and claim to make products that contribute to a healthy environment, but their exponential growth has been built on fossil fuels, from clothing literally made from fracked gas to polluting manufacturing that threatens the health of communities in the Global South. Lululemon’s mantra is supposedly ‘Be Planet,’ when in reality it’s ‘Be Profit,’” said Tzeporah Berman, international program director at Stand.earth, in a press release.


Stand.earth accuses Lululemon of greenwashing




According to Lululemon's “Impact Report” published last autumn, the company's emissions and therefore its climate pollution increased by 100 percent (p. 79) since the introduction of the slogan “Be Planet”.


The report also makes it clear that the company relies on climate-damaging fossil fuels to produce more than 60 percent of its products (p. 55). These cannot be effectively recycled nor are they biodegradable and release microplastics into oceans and waterways.


By filing the complaint, Stand.earth seeks a rescission of such claims and highlights the need for brands to make clear and accurate environmental claims that avoid exaggerations.


“Lululemon states that its ‘products and actions avoid environmental harm and contribute to restoring a healthy planet,’ however, its products are made in factories that burn coal for energy, and are made in countries including Vietnam, Cambodia, and Indonesia that rely heavily on fossil fuels to power their production,” states Rachel Kitchin, senior corporate climate campaigner at Stand.earth.


“Despite these claims, some of the company's biggest suppliers have made no clear strides towards reducing their negative impact on the planet. I would call that greenwashing. If Lululemon wants its words to ring true, it should immediately commit to kicking out coal, and shifting its products from fossil fuels to clean energy,” demands Kitchin.


At the beginning of December last year, Stand.earth had denounced the fashion industry's positioning of biomass as a sustainable fuel as greenwashing.


Read more about greenwashing:




* Background: What exactly is greenwashing?

* All articles about greenwashing


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IFCO brings over 600 exhibitors to Istanbul, many buyers from Russia and Middle East

Clothes by Turkish brand Viola&Vesper. Credits: FashionUnited

While Turkey has been a sourcing destination for a large number of international fashion companies for decades, its trade fair sector is structured in such a way that manufacturers who not only produce clothing but also have their own brands can present themselves to a varied audience - especially buyers from the Middle East and Eastern Europe.

The fifth edition of Istanbul Fashion Connection (IFCO), organised by Itkib, the Istanbul Textile and Clothing Exporters Association, ended on Saturday, 10th February in Istanbul, with the next edition taking place from 7th to 9th August 2024.

FashionUnited was invited to the fair, which provided an opportunity to get closer to this market and talk to the apparel producers and designers present at the event. Over 600 exhibitors and brands gathered on 100,000 square meters of exhibition space with their collections for women, men, babies and children as well as denim and activewear, underwear and hosiery, occasion wear as well as bridal wear, leather and shoes.

Turkey is EU's third largest supplier of garments and textiles



The organisers expected more than 30,000 visitors, including buyers and industry experts; however, at the time of this writing, the final figures had not been announced. What is certain, however, is that Turkey represents an important reference point for the European fashion industry and trade.Impressions at IFCO. Credits: FashionUnited

As the third largest supplier of garments and textiles to the EU, Turkey offers clear competitive advantages, emphasised Fatih Zengin, deputy secretary general of Itkib, the Istanbul Association of Garment Exporters. “I’m talking about short lead times, manufacturing quality and customisation,” said Zengin.

In the area “The Core”, 25 Turkish designers presented their brands who export their small productions to the USA, Europe and the Middle East. This also included Nej, a brand founded by Nej Nejla Güvenç. A pioneer of Turkey’s vision of “sustainability in fashion”, the designer was part of the design teams of various Turkish brands for many years and later founded her own sustainable brand Nej in 2002. The Itkib-backed designer also works as a consultant for Turquality, a government program aimed at promoting companies' own brands, transcending the mere need to increase exports.

Fabrics certified by the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) and EcoBamboo are among the materials used for Nej’s collection presented at IFCO. The items cost between 160 euros for a sweatshirt and 400 euros for a coat.Nej founder and designer Nej Nejla Güvenç at IFCO. Credits: FashionUnited

Other brands represented at “The Core” area included Armine, Gizia, Kayra and Viola&Vesper. The latter was founded by Ece and Ozge and is known for its evening dresses and glamorous pieces that can be turned into everyday wear by combining them with jeans and more sporty pieces. It exports its creations mainly to the Middle East. Ece, the label's creative soul, told FashionUnited that she graduated from Parsons School of Design and continued her career with Vera Wang, Zac Posen and Yazbukey.


“Sequins, rhinestones, feathers and extravagant details are the basic elements of our timeless collections. Viola&Vesper represents the two opposing personalities that live in every woman. Sometimes, she can feel like Viola, inspired by Shakespeare's Twelfth Night — mystical, natural, passionate and determined. At other times, she can feel like Vesper, inspired by James Bond's one true love, Vesper Lynd — bold, flamboyant, spontaneous and fearless,” explained the founders.


Trend area dedicated to introspection



IFCO dedicated an ad hoc section to trends, which was designed by Turkish fashion school IMA (Istanbul Moda Academy), a member of the International Foundation of Fashion Technology Institutes. The theme for Fall/Winter 25-26 was “Introspect”. This was understood as an individual commitment to creating a better version of ourselves, combined with assistive technologies and artificial intelligence, which should serve as accelerators for ideas and creativity. The focus was on design psychology.

In addition to an area for designers, IFCO hosted a pavilion dedicated to established brands and manufacturers. This included Cebir Giyim with the Maraton Sportswear brand. Founded in 1992 by four brothers led by Celal Kaya, the company started in a small tailor shop in Laleli and began by making tracksuits.Baby romper by Ozmoz Credits: FashionUnited

Subsequently, Cebir Giyim took over the Maraton Sportswear brand in 2000 and established the menswear design team in 2001. Today Maraton Sportswear has over 100 employees, five stores in Laleli and Merter and a growing market share. “We are opening up new markets,” confirmed Neze Hat Aksoy, the brand’s export, import and legal manager. He highlighted the company's efforts to make garments intended for sports increasingly comfortable, for instance through the use of high quality materials, as supplied by Italian fibre maker Fulgar.

“We also work with many of Nike's suppliers and decided some time ago to print the labels in bas-relief directly on the fabric to prevent the heel tabs from interfering with skin contact.” The manager added that the company is working on the introduction of the digital product passport: “It will also prove to be very useful in combating counterfeiting.”

Italian womenswear brand Camomilla brand uses the Turkish company Yüksel Textile, which also produces the Aj 81 and Yxl Collection brands. However, “the first market for our company is Germany, followed by the USA, Belgium and Ireland,” stated Nury Yüksel from the Yüksel Textile Group.

Kidswear brands focus increasingly on sustainability

Collection by Ozmoz Credits: FashionUnited

Turkish company Ozmoz Clothing offers children's clothing and until last year, counted several Italian and other European children's fashion brands among its customers. “With this new collection, we have expanded our sustainability commitment,” said Mahir Ozden, vice president of Ozmoz, whose resume also includes a doctorate in textiles. “To save water, we use a process that does not require us to wash the garments after printing, but rather secures them with heat.”

In addition, organic cotton is often used for children's clothing lines. “The price is a little higher: it ranges from 30 to 39 euros for a traditional cotton romper to 40 to 45 euros for one made from organic cotton,” adds Ozden, pointing out that the sustainable line is very popular with northern European customers.

The Gelisim Group is a supplier of US company Vf Corporation. “We produce for The North Face, Timberland, Hally Hanson, Vans, among others,” confirms Gülen Yavuz, sales and marketing manager at Gelisim Tekstil. The company, which employs 725 people and has revenue of 87 million US dollars, has average delivery times of approximately 4 to 7 weeks and an annual production capacity of approximately 7 million units.The trend area. Credits: FashionUnited

Turkish imports in numbers



According to SMI data, 47.1 percent of textiles and garment imported into Italy come from the EU; non-EU countries make up the remaining 52.9 percent, similar to other European countries. While the January-August period of 2023 ended with a growth of 12.1 percent, a later one recorded a decline of 11.4 percent.

During this period, despite a decline of 22.1 percent, China remained in first place with an increase of 16.5 percent on total imports. Second was France with a double-digit positive change of 15 percent, followed by Spain with an increase of 8.8 percent. Bangladesh, on the other hand, recorded a decline of 15.3 percent to 1.1 billion euros. Turkey, India and Pakistan also recorded declines, in contrast to the other main suppliers, which showed positive dynamics.

In the first nine months of 2023, China confirmed its position as the industry's top supplier in the menswear sector despite a decrease of 12.9 percent compared to the same period last year. Bangladesh, in second place, also recorded a double-digit decline by 16.5 percent. France was in third place with growth of 21.1 percent; followed by the Netherlands, the traditional entry point for goods from Asia, which recorded a plus of 20.1 percent.


Among the remaining top 15 suppliers, Turkey, Pakistan and Vietnam recorded declines of 4.2 percent, 7.9 percent and 15.8 percent, respectively, while all other key supplier countries showed a positive dynamic, between 2.4 percent for Albania in 13th place and 77 percent for Switzerland in 12th place.„The Core“ presents Turkish designers. Credits: FashionUnited


This article was originally published on FashionUnited Italy . Edited and translated by Simone Preuss.


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Astrid & Miyu launches bespoke necklace service

Astrid & Miyu ‘Story Chain’ bespoke necklace service Credits: Astrid & Miyu



Jewellery


Astrid & Miyu, the UK’s fastest-growing jewellery brand, has launched a new bespoke necklace service to allow customers to create personalised chains.


The brand’s new bespoke fine jewellery welding service ‘Story Chain,’ follows the success of welded bracelets that Astrid & Miyu launched in September 2019 and allows customers to personalise 9k solid gold necklaces with up to seven semi-precious and solid gold charms.


Rebeckah Farndale, welding mentor at Astrid & Miyu, said in a statement: “This new service is a really exciting one for us to share with our Astrid & Miyu community, offering each individual their very own beautiful bespoke necklace.


“This gives our followers a one-of-a-kind opportunity to create something distinctive with an interactive and specialised consultation process in store to create the perfect personalised gift for a loved one, a friend or to have as an everlasting wearable memory and being made with 9k solid gold will maintain its quality and shine.”


Astrid & Miyu ‘Story Chain’ bespoke necklace service Credits: Astrid & Miyu



The 9k solid gold charms start at 30 pounds each and include zodiacs, initials, birthstones and hearts. The chains range from 200 to 275 pounds.


Customers can build their ‘Story Chain’ via the visual online builder on the brand’s website or book a Story Chain Consultation in its Spitalfields store in London for a one-on-one appointment with a stylist. The personalised service has a 30-pound service charge.


Connie Nam, founder and chief executive at Astrid & Miyu, added: “For the first time we’re so proud to be able to offer something completely new for our community and to also target additional consumers who were wanting a more personalised piece of bespoke jewellery, giving our customers the opportunity to use their wonderful memories and stories to build their own story chain, which is something they will never want to take off, building on their wonderful memories.”


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Liverpool based delivery service Yodel acquired by YDLGP Limited

Yodel parcel Credits: Yodel



Parcel carrier Yodel has been acquired by YDLGP Limited, a newly formed company backed by a Shift-led consortium, to create a “super scale logistics platform”.


YDLGP is backed by a consortium of investors, including Solano Partners Ltd, an independent boutique investment bank that also advised on the acquisition, as well as the leadership team behind Shift, the rapidly growing UK-based logistics platform, including its founder, Jacob Corlett.


Yodel’s customers include some of Britain’s biggest retailers, such as Very, Boden, Zalando, and Vinted. For the year ended December 31, 2023, the company generated 561.8 million revenue.


The parcel company also confirmed that its new owner YDLGP has agreed terms to acquire the entire issued share capital of Shift, the tech logistics scale-up that acquired and relaunched Tuffnells in June 2023.


Yodel and Shift to create a “super scale logistics platform”




Upon completion, the enlarged group will form a “super scale” logistics platform serving both the parcels market through the Yodel business and larger, irregular dimensions and weights freight through the Tuffnells brand. Shift’s AI-driven cutting-edge technology platform would then become the platform that brings automation and efficiency to both businesses.


Mike Hancox, chief executive of Yodel, said in a statement: “We’re extremely excited to begin the next chapter of Yodel’s journey, leveraging the scale of our business with the support of new shareholders and the future benefits of the Shift technology platform.


“Our customers have always been our priority and the transaction announced today allows us to ensure continuity for them, as well as our employees and wider stakeholders.”


Jon Edirmanasinghe, founding partner of Solano, added: “We believe there is a fantastic opportunity to harness the strong brand and scale of Yodel in the UK and take further market share with the support of fresh capital and the innovative technology provided by the Shift team.


“We’ve seen the Shift team successfully acquire and relaunch the Tuffnells business and believe that forming the enlarged group to house all three creates a disruptive logistics powerhouse.”


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Deckers Brands appoints Robin Green as president of Hoka

Hoka One One Credits: Deckers Brands, Hoka



Deckers Brands , the parent company of Teva, Ugg and Deckers, has appointed Robin Green as president of Hoka, effective immediately.


In her new role Green will be reporting directly to Dave Powers, CEO and president of Deckers Brands and serving the executive leadership team. Green brings with her a proven track record of overseeing global operations while delivering transformative results and brand growth, she previously held the position of global vice president for men's running and fitness at Nike, Inc.


"Robin is a strong leader with a demonstrated ability to develop and execute on multi-year strategic, growth-driving initiatives for global performance businesses, and I am eager for her to leverage that expertise as part of Deckers," said Powers, CEO of Deckers Brands in a statement.


"Hoka is in its strongest position to date, and I am confident in our ability to continue its positive momentum with Robin at the helm. Together, we will focus on continuing to expand consumer awareness of Hoka, maximizing and scaling our product offerings and accessibility, and eclipsing the exceptional revenue milestones hit over the last year."


Green commented that she is "thrilled" to join Deckers and continue to "unlock the potential" of the footwear specialist brand. "Hoka is delivering market share gains and record results at unparalleled levels for our industry, and we will continue to execute on the incredible growth opportunities ahead," said Green in a statement on her new role.


"I am confident in our ability to build on the Hoka brand's commitment to product innovation excellence, capitalize on our growing global consumer demand and brand loyalty, and optimize for marketplace management and growth."


As president of Hoka, Green will lead the brand's operation, focusing on ensuring continued growth, expanding and strengthening consumer and athlete connections while speeding up the development of new products.


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Design Arc UK acquires Lily and Lionel and launches two new brands

Lily and Lionel Credits: Design Arc UK



Global supply chain solutions provider Design Arc UK has acquired established womenswear brand Lily and Lionel and launched a new brands division to introduce two new womenswear brands.


In a statement, Design Arc UK said it would be launching Raffya and Jagged & Beau, two new womenswear brands designed exclusively in-house, offering resort wear and occasionwear.


Raffya is a year-round resort collection designed to capture “the essence of a free spirit,” offering vibrant dresses, co-ords, and shirts adorned with beautiful prints, bold colours, and meticulous hand-sewn embroidery. While Jagged & Beau is its ready-to-wear women’s occasionwear brand offering “the high-fashion spirit of the catwalk”.


Raffya Credits: Design Arc UK



The strategic move will launch a new concept ‘The House of Brands’ to reshape “fashion through innovation and sustainability,” under the umbrella of global fashion infrastructure company PDS Limited.


Rakesh Chadha, managing director from Design Arc UK, said: “In line with our mission of providing innovative fashion solutions through trusted and global standards, our corporate ambition is to establish a new brands business offering direct-to-consumer and wholesale customers a best-in-class experience working with our House of Brands.


“We are therefore thrilled to be showcasing Lily and Lionel, Raffya and Jagged & Beau as they launch their first ever collection into the wholesale space. Despite distinct identities, our commitment to serving a diverse customer base drives our expansion strategy. Our dual-pronged approach engages end consumers and establishes partnerships with wholesale accounts, positioning us for sustainable growth, a strong global corporate presence, and heightened brand awareness. Our positive working practices, deep understanding of the product and anticipated problem-solving ability directs us to offer customised, fast responsive service not only to our customers but also to our suppliers.”


Jagged & Beau Credits: Design Arc UK


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Why scent marketing in fashion stores leaves you wanting more

The Power of Scent
Marketing. Credits:
TransduceINTERVIEW



A subtle fresh scent that makes customers linger in a fashion store
longer or strange food or even sweat odours in the store? A choice that’s
quite easily made, you might say. The effect of scent, in general but also
in retail, is often underestimated, yet it has a powerful impact. That's
why FashionUnited speaks with Transduce about the opportunities of scent
marketing in stores, which scents work well, and the unexpectedly positive
effects a scent can have.



When we talk about scent marketing, we are not talking about the
overwhelming scent that many people still remember from Abercrombie &
Fitch. Moreover, that scent is not perceived as positive. With scent
marketing, it's also not about a few scent sticks placed in the store.
"That has only a local effect, and you really need to know the air currents
in the store very well to make them effective." Now that some prejudices
have been cleared away, the question arises: what is scent marketing
really?

Scent Marketing in Stores: Transduce on the Effects of a Good and
Natural Scent



Rebeca Barbulescu and Kimberlynn Chaves of Transduce came up with the
idea to start working with scent marketing somewhat by coincidence. Chaves
grew up with the use of essential oils, while Barbulescu did not. They met
at a young age when they were among the few with dark hair in Zoetermeer.
"It creates a bond," Chaves says during the interview. "We also realised
more and more that we share the same norms and values."



As teenagers, the two joked about starting a company together, but they
could not have foreseen that they would eventually found Transduce. Chaves
wanted to become a diplomat and Barbulescu went to hospitality school.
Eventually, the two reunited in their careers at the beginning of the
pandemic when Chaves decided to pursue her love for essential oils and
Barbulescu saw an opportunity for the hotel industry here.

"This way, for example, we could create a scent for a hotel guest with jet
lag, making them feel energetic again," Chaves told FashionUnited. This
planted the seed for Transduce, but soon the two realised that with scent
marketing they could tap into so many more industries, such as healthcare,
retail, and even hospitality.



Natural scents have an effect on the limbic system of humans. This
system regulates emotions and affects long-term memory. "That's where we
can play nicely with our scents," says Chaves. "Each oil has a different
effect, so we can tailor our response to the needs of our customer. An oil
can affect the nervous system by giving a refreshing feeling or creating
more of a peaceful feeling."



Chaves emphasises that Transduce uses only natural and no synthetic
scents. "It's like olive oil, the first press of the oil is the best.
Essential oils that you often buy in natural stores smell lovely but are
often the tenth or eleventh press in the distillation process. They don't
have the same powerful effect. We focus on quality, making the effect of
the oil stronger."



About Transduce:

Transduce works for both B2B and
B2C clients. The company offers a range of ready-made scents but can also
create custom scents for businesses. This process takes about five months.
This scent can be used by the company in offices, business premises, and
stores, but Transduce can also produce it as a white-label scent so it can
be given to customers. Transduce only uses natural oils and no synthetics.
The effect of these oils has been extensively researched on a scientific
basis for over two and a half years. "The company and the concept must be
right," say Chaves and Barbulescu. The two have also created a diffuser
that guarantees optimal dispersal of the scent. The consumer version is
successful for smaller spaces up to 30 square metres. The scent machines
for businesses can be used in spaces up to 10,000 cubic metres. Transduce
assesses with each client where these scent machines can best be placed in
the space.





Transduce now has various clients, from hotels to retailers, such as
optical group GrandVision. A custom scent was developed with the Transduce
team for the optical group. The group mainly wanted to evoke brand
recognition with the scent and ensure that customers stayed longer in the
store. A scent was developed and tested in the stores.



"Surprising results emerged from that which we had not expected. For
example, we had not considered what it did to the employees," says
Barbulescu. The employees found it much more pleasant to be in the store,
started their day with fresh energy, and no longer had an afternoon dip.
"The employees also indicated that they felt valued by their boss because
more attention was paid to the working environment."



An additional benefit is that the perception of consumers about
GrandVision's store changed, as shown by research from an external party.
"Due to the pleasant scent, customers had the impression that GrandVision
cares about the well-being of the employees and customers. In addition,
consumers also look at how transparent a brand is and what they convey
outwardly. Natural scents are more quickly associated with transparency,
authenticity, and honesty."

Rebeca Barbulescu and Kimberlynn Chaves, founders of
Transduce Credits: TransduceOpting for
Scent in the Store? Choose These to Keep Your Customers in the
Store Longer



Is there a one-stop solution for every retailer? "There are scents that
are popular, but we find that many of our clients still want to create
their own scent for brand recognition. We live in a world with a lot of
competition, so brands want to differentiate themselves in a certain way,"
says Barbulescu. But if one scent had to be chosen, citrus scents are
widely popular. "They are very invigorating," Chaves says.



"They are usually present as a base in every scent and are often used as
a top note. A scent is composed of top notes, heart notes, and base notes."
Top notes are the first to be smelled but also dissipate the fastest.
"Citrus is truly an attention grabber and keeps you alert." Chaves explains
that the symphony of different notes makes a scent rich and appealing to a
large audience.



"We often add a warm undertone because our retail clients naturally want
customers to stay in the store as long as possible to increase the chance
of a purchase or to engage them," Chaves explains. "So, the warm undertone
creates a feeling of calm and comfort, which is very important." A
combination of citrus scents with a warm undertone is therefore often
recommended for retail by Transduce.



The scent ultimately chosen depends entirely on the goal the retailer or
company has in mind. Transduce prefers to be involved in an experiential
concept as early as possible, "so that we can truly embody the brand."
Usually, it is possible to predict in advance what scent will result, but
sometimes there are still surprises.



"For example, we recently had a briefing from a company that wanted a
fresh and especially non-floral scent. We came up with all sorts of fresh
scents, but they said: 'This is just not it, but we can't put our finger on
what it should be.' Eventually, we became stubborn and presented them with
a floral scent without saying what was in it, and that scent they
ultimately chose." Floral scents are sometimes put in a corner because
people quickly associate them with excessively sweet scents, while they can
shine in a bouquet of scents.

Scent marketing in retail: It's already very normal in Southern
Europe



For scent marketing in retail, there are still plenty of opportunities
in Northern Europe. "At the moment, the concept is much more accepted in
Southern Europe and the United States. In Southern Europe and the Middle
East, they really play on the emotion, while here we think rather
rationally about what colour the wall should be, what lights are used. In
Italy and for example in the United Arab Emirates, the focus is on the
experience," Barbulescu explains. There are plenty of opportunities because
even in countries where scent marketing is already accepted, there are
opportunities for Transduce. For example, they help brands and companies
switch their scents from synthetic ingredients to natural ones.



Barbulescu and Chaves see the future of scent marketing as a future that
moves away as much as possible from synthetic scents. "It also becomes more
personalised and focused on the needs of the customer. A few years ago, it
was more 'mass equals cash'," Barbulescu outlines. "As a third trend, we
see that scent marketing is emerging in all industries. Not only retail and
hospitality, but also fitness spaces, health clubs, healthcare
institutions, even the hospitality industry. They all think together: 'We
want to work on our well-being.'"



So, there are plenty of opportunities, and it is clear that scent
marketing leaves people wanting more.



This article was originally published on FashionUnited.NL.
Translation and edit from Dutch into English: Veerle Versteeg.


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Deckers Brands appoints Robin Green as president of Hoka

Hoka Covent Garden store in London Credits: Hoka



Footwear specialist Hoka, part of Decker Brands, has named Robin Green as its new president, effective immediately.


Green, who was most recently global vice president of men's running and fitness for Nike, Inc., will serve on the executive leadership team, reporting directly to Dave Powers, chief executive officer and president of Deckers Brands.


As president of Hoka, Green has been tasked with focusing on delivering continued growth, further expanding the brand’s consumer and athlete connection, and accelerating the product innovation pipeline across a global marketplace.


Powers said in a statement: "Robin is a strong leader with a demonstrated ability to develop and execute on multi-year strategic, growth-driving initiatives for global performance businesses, and I am eager for her to leverage that expertise as part of Deckers.


"Hoka is in its strongest position to date, and I am confident in our ability to continue its positive momentum with Robin at the helm. Together, we will focus on continuing to expand consumer awareness of Hoka, maximising and scaling our product offerings and accessibility, and eclipsing the exceptional revenue milestones hit over the last year."


On her new role, Green added: "I am thrilled to join Deckers and lead the dedicated Hoka team to further unlock the potential of this outstanding brand. Hoka is delivering market share gains and record results at unparalleled levels for our industry, and we will continue to execute on the incredible growth opportunities ahead.


“I am confident in our ability to build on the Hoka brand's commitment to product innovation excellence, capitalise on our growing global consumer demand and brand loyalty, and optimise for marketplace management and growth."


Last year, Hoka unveiled its first-ever retail store in Europe, located at London’s Covent Garden, housing its full line of footwear, apparel, and accessories.


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British Vogue editor bows out with 40 'legendary women' cover

Edward Enninful attends The 2023 Met Gala. Credits: Jamie McCarthy for Getty Images North America, Getty Images via AFP




The pathbreaking editor of British Vogue Edward
Enninful on Friday said 40 "legendary women" ranging from Serena Williams to
Miley Cyrus had gathered to grace the cover of his last issue of the fashion
bible.


Enninful took over at British Vogue in 2017, becoming the magazine's first
male, first black and first gay editor, and vowed to reinvigorate it with a
new focus on diversity and inclusion.


Enninful writes in his final edition that "non-white cover stars had been
viewed for so long as commercial nonstarters (this magazine had been a key
offender, in fact)".


"How ridiculous, I thought. And so it proved," he added.


He said he searched out his past collaborators -- including Laverne Cox,
Vogue's first trans cover star -- after realising that "no one woman could or
should encapsulate these past few years for the magazine".


The 40 cover stars -- each of whom has individually graced the cover of
Vogue during Enninful's tenure -- were drawn from the worlds of film,
television, fashion and sport.


They include tennis player Serena Williams, actress Jane Fonda, chat show
host Oprah Winfrey and singer Dua Lipa.


Nineties supermodels Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Christy Turlington,
Linda Evangelista and Iman all feature along with two mother and daughter
pairs -- Cindy Crawford and Kaia Gerber and Kate and Lila Moss.


Among those representing the younger generation are models Cara Delevingne,
Gigi Hadid and the plus-size Paloma Elsesser, singer Miley Cyrus and actress
Jodie Comer.

'Unseen visible'



Model Adwoa Aboah, who appeared on the cover of Enninful's debut edition in
2017, also features.


"What we needed was a group, to lean into the power of the collective to
bring to life what I hope has been a daring, disruptive and evolutionary
period in Vogue's history", Enninful added.


He said he held his breath for weeks before the shoot.


"Would 40 of the most booked and blessed women on earth actually make it to
one studio in New York on one day in December to take one image together?"


The shot, by photographer Steven Meisel, is the largest number of women
ever photographed together for a Vogue cover.


Campbell praised her friend Enninful for his groundbreaking editorship.


"He's shown us fashion is more than clothing, it's a powerful tool for
social change," she wrote in The Daily Telegraph newspaper.


"He has transformed the fashion industry's thinking and modus operandi
which was long overdue... He made the unseen visible," she added.


Enninful, who has edited 76 editions of Vogue, is due to take up a new
advisory role at the magazine's publisher Conde Nast.


His last edition is due to hit newsstands on Tuesday.(AFP)


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Tod’s Group strikes new deal with L Catterton, going private

Tod’s, 650 Madison Avenue, New York Credits: Tod’s



L Catterton, an investment firm in which LVMH has a minority share, announced a friendly takeover bid for Italian fashion group Tod's. The primary purpose is to remove its shares from the Milan Stock Exchange.


The offer, valued at 512 million euros, involves buying up to 36 percent of Tod's shares at 43 euros per share, a 17.59 percent premium over the recent closing price.


The move follows an unsuccessful attempt in 2022 by the Della Valle family, Tod's majority owner, to privatise the company. If successful, L Catterton will indirectly own 36 percent, the majority shareholders will retain 54 percent, and Delphine, a minority shareholder, will have 10 percent, aiming to boost Tod's growth initiatives.


The current offer involves the delisting, which is considered a prerequisite to ensure the pursuit of future growth.


The Tod’s Group also operates Roger Vivier, Hogan and Fay brands.


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Pantone reveals “functional and adaptable” AW24 colour palette for NYFW

NYFW AW24 Colours - Pantone trend report Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight



Pantone, the global authority on colour, has revealed that the autumn/winter 2024 edition of New York Fashion Week embraces consumer habits linked to conscious consumption and slowing trend cycles with a colour palette offering a “lively mix” of functional and adaptable colours.


Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color Institute, said in a statement: “Colours for NYFW autumn/winter 2024/2025 strive for balance between the more familiar and the new and exciting, embracing longevity and seasonless style.


“Functional and adaptable, they are reliable and robust, servicing our increasingly hybridised style of living, providing a strong chromatic foundation and at the same time delivering playful and energetic accents for moments of magic.”


NYFW designers will be utilising colours infused with “an inherent richness and earthiness that highlights our deeper connection to nature” with a collection of warm tones derived from natural pigments, opulent mid-tones, accessible neutrals, and universal greens.


“Fun, but also functional, essential but not un-exciting,” explained Pantone. “Colours for AW24, are straightforward, exuding a self-assured, no muss, no fuss demeanour.”


Pantone NYFW autumn/winter 2024/2025 colour palette Credits: Pantone



Pantone NYFW AW24 colour palette




For AW24, Pantone has selected 10 “environmentally inspired” colours stemming from consumers' desire for “more organic hues,” including a decadent red, a mineral-based teal, a cooling blue, a deep dark purple, and a leafy green.


PANTONE 16-1348 ‘Tomato Cream’ is a nourishing toasty hue “that warms the soul”.


PANTONE 19-1558 ‘Scarlet Smile’ is a glamorous and decadent red that captures our desire.


PANTONE 17-0839 ‘Golden Palm’ is a warm and earthy green hue that is described by Pantone as a “new expression of eco colour”.


PANTONE 19-5421 ‘Aventurine’ is a mineral-based teal tone that delivers richness.


PANTONE 17-1464 ‘Red Orange’ is a vibrant mix of red and orange tones that offers “energy and empowerment”.


Pantone NYFW autumn/winter 2024/2025 colour palette Credits: Pantone



PANTONE 16-0430 ‘Fern’ is a leafy green rooted in the natural world.


PANTONE 19-2514 ‘Italian Plum’ is a deep dark purple.


PANTONE 14-4500 ‘Moonstruck’ is a shadowy grey hue “that lives behind the clouds”.


PANTONE 14-4307 ‘Winter Sky’ is a cooling blue hue that has a calming effect.


PANTONE 11-0700 ‘Lucent White’ is an “optically brightened white conveying effective simplicity”.


Pantone autumn/winter 2024 core classic colours for NYFW




The 10 standout colours for NYFW sit alongside five new classic hues, which offer “honest core tones to establish new pillars,” adds Pantone.


Pantone NYFW autumn/winter 2024/2025 - classic colours Credits: Pantone



PANTONE 12-000 ‘White Swan,’ a soft and downy white “full of grace”.


PANTONE 17-1422 ‘Raw Umber’ is a grounded brown “emotionally connected” to the earth.


PANTONE 18-0403 ‘Dark Gull Gray’ is a solid and dense cooling shade of grey.


PANTONE 19-3812 ‘Baritone Blue’ is a deep elegant blue hue.


PANTONE 18-0935 ‘Buckhorn Brown’ is a sturdy golden brown “that forms an unwavering foundation”.


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Greenwashing machine running at full speed: Fashion industry must move away from focus on recycled polyester

Bags made of RPET. Credits: Kind BagOpinion



When you see a garment made of '80 percent recycled polyester', do you
think; 'Aha now I'm making a good choice?' Unfortunately, this may not be
the case…



In 90 percent of cases, this recycled polyester consists of RPET
(recycled polyethylene terephthalate) from collected soft drink bottles.
Sounds like a wonderful way to make sustainable clothes, but after these
clothes are worn down, we often can't do anything with them afterwards
(with current technologies). This is all while an RPET bottle can forever
continue to be recycled into an RPET bottle. The clothing industry is once
again acting linearly, yet the reuse of RPET bottles into RPET bottles is
circular.



About the author:

Florentine Gillis is founder of Circle Closet - the largest fashion
rental platform in BeNeLux and a speaker on circular business models.




No doubt the fashion industry is doing this with the very best of
intentions. They are also being steered down this path by outsiders, such
as the 2025 Recycled Polyester Challenge, an initiative of Textile
Exchange. However, some fundamental parts of this "circular" strategy are
wrong: The beverage bottle industry is now a circular chain and is being
brutally interrupted by the fashion industry. Besides PET bottles being
downcycled into low-quality clothing, the unprecedented popularity for RPET
in the fashion industry creates a shortage of RPET in the beverage
industry. Consequence: prices go up and the beverage industry has to use
more virgin new material to meet their own production numbers.



In addition, the consumer has the idea that they have bought a circular
product and worse; that the producer is very sustainable. So less pressure
for the producer to really put something circular on the market. In the
long run, this strategy does not help win the war, because in the end we
are not building a circular economy, but once again a linear economy. Time
and energy that producers would be better off putting into a truly circular
strategy as far as I am concerned.

## We are not building a circular economy, but a linear one



Producers should focus on establishing a so-called ‘closed-loop system’.
So how exactly does this work? From the outset, consideration should be
given to producing clothes that last and are suitable for reuse or rental.
The design of the product should aim for easy repair, remanufacturing and
recycling. One issue is that producers like to work with mixed fabrics
(e.g. cotton and polyester). Until recently, these so-called 'blends' were
difficult to recycle. In recycling, you want to break down the clothes into
homogeneous yarn, from which new clothes can be made. Companies like
US-based Circ are now making this possible to do. Inditex (the parent
company of Zara, among others) has even invested heavily in it.



But why can clothes made of RPET be difficult to recycle? This is
because in the production of low-quality clothes, low-quality yarn often
remains after recycling, if the clothes already end up in the recycling
machine and not in the incinerator. Each time, the quality of the yarn gets
worse and so at the end you can only make stuffing material from it.
Circularity focuses precisely on that closed system, turning cotton clothes
into cotton clothes and polyester clothes into polyester clothes. Yes,
polyester techniques are still in their infancy and do not yet have the
scale to allow large retailers to work with them. However, attention and
money will allow these new techniques to scale up faster. Moreover, there
are already enough examples in the market where a closed-loop system does
succeed, such as Dutch brands Mud Jeans, New Optimist and Martan.



These brands actively take responsibility for the downstream of their
clothes. For example, they work with deposit systems or you can lease your
jeans, with Mud keeping ownership and responsibility for them and making
sure they are made into new jeans again.



Fortunately, there is light on the horizon. With the Extended Producer
Responsibility (UPV) introduced in the Netherlands in 2023 (and coming soon
to the EU), things are hopefully going to change. From 2025, producers must
prepare 50 percent of the kilograms of textiles they put on the market for
reuse or recycling, at least 25 percent of which must be fibre to fibre
recycling. By 2030, that rises to 33 percent. We are far from there, but it
is quite an improvement from the 1 percent measured in 2021.



Read more:


* How sustainable is recycled polyester?






* Turning plastics into products






* Project TexCircle upcycles old textiles into new clothes
and accessories


http://dlvr.it/T2dBqG