Saturday, March 28, 2020

Women’s footwear on the catwalks Fall Winter 2020-21

Women’s footwear on the catwalks Fall Winter 2020-21
Trendstop brings FashionUnited readers a first look at the essential styles informing women’s footwear direction for Fall Winter 2020-21.
The Trendstop team give FashionUnited readers an exclusive look at three of the defining footwear trends that will be inspiring collections into the FW20-21 season and beyond. Fresh ideas that elevate and excite the women’s footwear market focus on quality and artisanal levels of craftsmanship combined with high functionality and a contemporary aesthetic. Our curated catwalk reports and dedicated footwear trend galleries evaluate each trend’s commercial value and longevity, giving you the best possible basis for your decision making.
This week Trendstop present three women’s footwear stories emerging for Fall Winter 2020-21. Outdoor/active looks are amped up for comfort and control in a changing climate in The Next Level Outdoor Hybrid whilst The Uber Refined Vintage Boot explores the resurgence of vintage and retro themes. Meanwhile, The Chiselled Toe introduces an essential silhouette that can be applied across a variety of footwear categories.

The Next Level Outdoor Hybrid

Outdoor-ready footwear is taken to the next level as hybrid hiker/moon boot silhouettes adapt to extreme conditions. Protective, quilted legs keep out the cold while tractor-inspired treads and toothed sole units ensure a firm footing over rugged terrain. Detailing takes its cue from the active sector with speed laces and draw cord fastenings.

Women’s footwear on the catwalks Fall Winter 2020-21
Images courtesy of Trendstop, left to right: Iceberg, Shrimps, Christian Dior, all Fall Winter 2020-21.

The Uber Refined Vintage Boot

The reemergence of vintage and vintage-inspired trends sees boot styles look back to the styling of eras past. Emphasis on material qualities and refined constructions channels a premium, investment piece aesthetic. Retro patent gloss, exotic reptile skins and atelier detailing techniques enhance the sense of luxury.

Women’s footwear on the catwalks Fall Winter 2020-21
Images courtesy of Trendstop, left to right: Ports 1961, Lanvin, Missoni, all Fall Winter 2020-21.

The Chiselled Toe

A key toe shape for FW20-21, narrow, squared-off toes are chiseled for a sharply defined look. The previous season’s points are precisely snipped with shallow walls that elongate the silhouette of boots and heels. Subtle trims and self-details are carefully considered, keeping the focus on shape and form.

Women’s footwear on the catwalks Fall Winter 2020-21
Images courtesy of Trendstop, left to right: Proenza Schouler, A.W.A.K.E Mode, Jason Wu, all Fall Winter 2020-21.

Exclusive Offer

FashionUnited readers can get free access to Trendstop’s SS20 Key formal & Casual Footwear Directions report featuring all the essential catwalk styles for the upcoming season. Simply click here to receive your free report.
Women’s footwear on the catwalks Fall Winter 2020-21
Trendstop.com is one of the world's leading trend forecasting agencies for fashion and creative professionals, renowned for its insightful trend analysis and forecasts. Clients include H&M, Primark, Forever 21, Zalando, Geox, Evisu, Hugo Boss, L'Oreal and MTV


* This article was originally published here

Friday, March 27, 2020

Karen Williams "I’m a better person and a stronger manager"

LVMH launched a very interesting series of short but very inspirational podcasts ‘Tips to the Top’. These are the testimonials of 12 very different and successful women from the LVMH group, their life stories with the focus on their career in the group. Karen Williams has been working as Global Academy and Education Director at MAKE UP FOR EVER for three years now. It’s worth hearing her fascinating story, how she got to her current position and who was her role model.



* This article was originally published here

Thursday, March 26, 2020

Nike celebrates 30th anniversary of Air Max 90

Nike celebrates 30th anniversary of Air Max 90
Air Max Day 2020, Nike’s annual dedication to its revolutionary cushioning Air sole sneaker, is this year honouring the Air Max 90, which is celebrating its 30th anniversary.
Nike released its first-ever Air Max 1 On March 26, 1987, a model that is regarded by most as a footwear masterpiece, and over three decades later it’s undeniable that the Nike Air Max 90 has officially stolen the limelight.
The iconic Nike Air Max 90 sneaker, designed by Tinker Hatfield was originally released as the Air Max III in 1990, is credited with showcasing the possibilities for Nike Air, as it featured a bigger Air unit than its predecessors, as well as improved flexibility and a variable, multi-port lacing system that allowed more fit options.
The new design also relayed a “boisterous aesthetic” with textured panels on the upper allowing for new colour schemes, so that sneakerheads could celebrate their style and showcase their creativity.
To mark the anniversary, Nike has recrafted the Air Max 90 for 2020, including a new panel scale, toe box height and heel panel, and the sportswear giant is releasing the sneaker in multiple colourways inspired by the shoe’s original colour blockings.

Nike to launch first sneaker with FlyEase technology

Nike celebrates 30th anniversary of Air Max 90
One of the key styles is the Air Max 90 FlyEase, marking Nike Sportswear’s first use of FlyEase technology. The sneaker celebrates three decades of the Air Max 90, combining the heritage of the 1990 design with FlyEase technology that offers quick, easy-on and off access through a flexible heel that collapses when wearers step into the shoe.
Nike explained that the idea behind the design is to allow wearers of the Air Max 90 FlyEase to tie and set their laces and then slip the shoe on and off for easy access on the go.
“It’s not often you get a second shot at taking another swing at trying to do something even better,” said Tinker Hatfield, designer of the original Air Max III and co-designer of the Air Max 90 FlyEase. “We wanted to respect both sides of this equation, which is to do something fresh and new and important with retro design — an older design — and not change it too much.”
The sneaker is available in multiple colourways, including a gender-neutral colourway inspired by the Hatfield brothers' Nike Zoom PV III pole vaulting shoe collaboration, their first and only other collaboration.
Nike celebrates 30th anniversary of Air Max 90
Nike is also bringing back the cult-favourite duck camo print from the 2013 Air Max 90 Atmos for a new Air Max Duck Camo Pack, which has been touted as one of the biggest drops of the year. The pack includes an inverted colour scheme of the original Air Max 90 Duck Camo shoe, and an Air Max 2090 with the duck camo print peeking out of a translucent-layered upper. The shoes come in unisex, youth and toddler sizing.
There is also a special return for the Air Max 90 Metallic Pack, originally only available via Nike By You. The new sneaker is available in gold, rose gold and silver colourways for women, as well as toddler sizing.
Nike celebrates 30th anniversary of Air Max 90

StockX reveals the most expensive and most popular Air Max 90 styles

In honour of Air Max 90’s 30th anniversary StockX, the “fashion stock market”, has shared the most popular and most expensive silhouettes to be sold on the platform to date, with Nike Air Max 90 Mars Landing ranking as the most popular Air Max of all time, while the Nike Air Max 90 Dizzee Rascal Tongue-N-Cheek is the most expensive style.
Nike celebrates 30th anniversary of Air Max 90
Following up Nike Air Max 90 Mars Landing, with its orange upper in the most popular ranking is the Air Max 90 Off-White Black, released in January 2019, closely followed by two other Virgil Abloh creations, the Air Max 90 Off-White Desert Ore style with a beige upper and mango orange Nike Swoosh and the Air Max 90 Off-White.
At the top of the most expensive charts sits Nike Air Max 90 Dizzee Rascal Tongue N Cheek, with its distinctive pink embroidered Tongue N’ Cheek’ tongues, which last sold for 2,937 pounds, and they are a personal favourite of StockX director of Europe, Derek Morrison, who described the design as “flawless”, and the pairing between Nike and Dizzee as “undeniably authentic”.
“Beyond the scarcity, the high price this sneaker commands on the resale market is a testament to its depth of resonance and cultural value more than 10 years later,” explained Morrison.
The second most expensive style is the Nike Air Max 90 Warhawk that features a distinctive design inspired by the Curtiss P-40 Warhawk, the fighter plane used by the US Air Force in World War II, which last sold for 2,540 pounds.
This is closely followed by Nike Air Max 90 Kaws Black Volt, which last sold for 2,226 pounds, and the Air Max 90 Off-White, which last sold for 1,007.
All prices refer to the last sale of each item on StockX as of March 26.
Images: courtesy of Nike and StockX


* This article was originally published here

Wednesday, March 25, 2020

New Look halts production and seeks three-month rent holiday

New Look halts production and seeks three-month rent holiday
New Look has requested a three-month rent holiday from landlords amid the ongoing coronavirus pandemic.
In a business update, the British fashion retailer said it is also looking to “significantly” reduce marketing costs, pause all production, delay all significant capital expenditure projects, and halt recruitment to minimise the impact of Covid-19.
The company has also confirmed it is actively pursuing government support in the form of a business rate exemption for 12 months, employee cost support, deferral of tax and national insurance payments, and by gaining access to the Covid Corporate Financing Facility. It expects these measures would “significantly improve” its cash management.
The company has also dropped guidance for the 2020 financial year.
Earlier this month, the retailer closed all 480 of its UK stores and all 28 of its stores in the Republic of Ireland.
But it remained positive, noting that due to its financial restructuring completed in 2019 it entered into the Covid-19 outbreak with “strengthened liquidity” and has no near-term maturities on its long-term debt funding.
New Look CEO Nigel Oddy said in a statement: “Our absolute priority is to keep our customers and colleagues safe, which underlined our decision to temporarily close our stores in advance of government advice to do so. Given the unprecedented circumstances that we - like all retailers - are operating in, we have taken a range of decisive and immediate actions to help us navigate through the coming period.
“We are confident that a combination of these ongoing actions, the significant financial and operational progress we have made over the past two years with our turnaround plan, and the strength of our brand mean that we will be well positioned to return to growth when a more normalised operating environment resumes.”
Photo credit: FashionUnited


* This article was originally published here

Tuesday, March 24, 2020

RFID: How the digitization of retail is progressing

RFID: How the digitization of retail is progressing
INTERVIEW RFID technology is becoming increasingly widespread - especially in fashion retail. Integrated into labels or hang tags, RFID chips are the digital signature of each individual product. They help retailers to build transparent supply chains, prevent losses permanently, optimise stock levels and simplify POS management. And, of course, they help to increase sales. Dutch company Nedap is one of the world's leading suppliers of RFID-based retail solutions, working with brands such as Adidas, Superdry and Acne.We asked Tom Vieweger and Ilse Protsman from Nedap about how the technology helps retailers.

RFID technology is making its way into the retail industry. In which areas are RFID chips already standard?

Tom Vieweger: We see that RFID is commonly used in "fashion environments," namely apparel, shoes, and sports. Many global implementations show that the technology has its most significant impact on the - so-called - vertically integrated models: brands that control their entire product life-cycle, including production, logistics and the sale across different channels.
Ilse Protsman: Estimations say that more than 10 billion products have been tagged with RFID in the last year – and the forecast is that this number will grow significantly year by year. As a consequence of a growing number of source-tagged brands, we now also see a lot of movement of RFID adoption from multi-brand sports retailers.

In which areas do you still see great potential?

Ilse Protsman: Parallel to the adoption in fashion, also other segments from the 'slow moving consumer goods' industry start adopting the technology - such as accessories, jewelry, and cosmetics.
Tom Vieweger: Especially, improvements on the label-side are fueling the potential for additional areas. Not only do RFID labels get less expensive, but they also show improved performance in challenging environments such as metals and liquids.
RFID: How the digitization of retail is progressing

What are the biggest concerns you encounter?

Ilse Protsman: There are not many concerns anymore. After we saw a phase of pioneering about a decade ago, it's clear now that the technology is working, and business cases are proven.
Tom Vieweger: These days, we get many questions from our clients about the environmental impact of RFID labels, since they include a tiny chip and a small antenna. At the same time, these materials are kept to a minimum so that customers can dispose of them with regular waste. Production methods are becoming more and more sustainable. Finally, there is a persuasive argument on how RFID helps the brands to be more sustainable: the impact of high stock visibility enables them to sell more with less stock, especially since it's not necessary to hold high safety stocks anymore.

So, RFID Technology helps to reduce overstock?

Ilse Protsman: Yes, since retailers typically know that their stock accuracy is low, they often hold high safety stocks in their stores. Those safety stocks are utilised to ensure merchandise availability, even if the stock information might be wrong.
However, the problem is that the safety stocks extend the actual demand and, thus, those products must be reduced or even returned to outlets at the end of the season to clear the space. Here, RFID shall help to avoid such kind of waste. If stock information is accurate, and a retailer knows where the products are, they do not need such safety stocks.

One of the biggest hurdles in opting for RFID so far has been the cost. Has anything changed or is the benefit becoming increasingly clear?

Tom Vieweger: There is currently a massive wave of RFID adoption going on in fashion and apparel retail. This growth is primarily based on a business case that can be easily made: the need for accurate stock data is critical for today's (omnichannel) retailers; while at the same time the operating cost for deploying RFID has significantly decreased due to lower RFID tag prices that are now around three euro cents a piece. Considering that the price was ten euro cents only five years ago, this has made a big difference and significantly improved the business case.
An essential benefit of using RFID is creating stock visibility along the whole supply chain. Not only does RFID enable fast scanning, but as each individual item can be easily tracked and traced, a brands’ supply chain can operate on the foundation of accurate data.
This is particularly valuable in the apparel business with its short product life-cycles, high seasonality and the given color/size complexity.
To be able to react to shifting demands, brands and retailers need to fully understand the flow of their products.

How can chips effectively protect against theft?

Tom Vieweger: The beauty of RFID is that it's a technology with a multitude of functionalities. If a product is equipped with an RFID label, you can seamlessly register every movement – also at the exit doors of a store for security reasons. One might argue that having the security-tag "just" in the price label might be a weaker security level. However, at the same time, it means that 100 percent of the items in a store are secured then. The level of security can increase when retailers choose to sew the RFID chip into the care label.
Ilse Protsman: We see that, especially in recent times, the discussions with our clients have changed. Nowadays, retailers try to implement new customer services like self- or mobile checkout. In this case, RFID enables secure mobile checkouts - either employee-assisted or on the mobile device of the customers themselves.
Tom Vieweger: The deactivation of the RFID label takes place in a cloud database by changing the product status from 'unsold' to 'sold.' Whenever an item leaves the store unpaid, the RFID-based EAS antennas at the store exit query the cloud database and will give an alarm in case an 'unsold' product leaves the store.

Do you have examples where this works well?

Ilse Protsman: For a majority of our clients, it's some kind of a logical "next step" to add anti-theft use cases to their RFID implementation, as soon as all stock-relevant use cases have been implemented. Good examples from our users are companies like Scalpers and Celio. Both have added RFID-based article surveillance meanwhile.
Tom Vieweger: When it comes to secure mobile checkouts, we are involved in various pilot projects. Technically there are no problems, but the retailers are testing the acceptance by their customers of such services. We see that, especially in Asia, mobile checkouts become a standard service these days, and we expect to see the same development in the rest of the world as well. The main benefit here is that people no longer have to wait in lines at the checkout. People pay by using their phones and can easily walk out of the store. Decathlon is a good example here in the Netherlands.
Ilse Protsman: Another RFID use case for checkout is integrating this technology at the cash desk. Instead of one-by-one barcode scanning, all RFID labels are read at once, which significantly increases the speed of checkout.

RFID chips are also needed to equip the physical store with digital technology and to offer more service, for example in-store navigation, digital advice in the changing rooms, etc. How far has the market come?

Ilse Protsman: I would say, these days, really all retailers are heavily making their minds up about options to digitize their stores. With plenty of solutions, the question is, where shall they start, and how can they get a quick return on investment?
Tom Vieweger: What we are discussing with them when it comes to RFID, is to get the basics right: Stock visibility is the foundation for all digital in-store applications. As a retailer, you need to know what you have and what you need to make merchandise available to the clients.
Ilse Protsman: "Digital touch-points" such as displays, in-store kiosks, or smart mirrors have one thing in common – they can only drive conversion if the promoted products are actually available. Stock information across all systems must be accurate and consistent. Only then, conversion and a high customer satisfaction rate is guaranteed. Here, RFID enables a high stock accuracy.

What are the biggest mistakes in using RFID?

Ilse Protsman: Around ten years ago, we already saw a first "hype" with some RFID projects that have been kicked off, predominantly by "technology enthusiasts." However, those projects suffered from excessive complexity and highly engineered processes. It turned out that it was hard to find a business case since the scalability of customized solutions is often not there.
Tom Vieweger: As a consequence, we set up the implementation projects with our clients with our proven guiding principles: Keep it simple, phased approach, and start small, scale fast. When a digital application has proven to be successful, it is the moment to scale up to the rest of the stores. However, as technology, consumer demand, and the market are permanently changing, it is essential to maintain a high degree of agility, which means, for example., to take away internal barriers – continuously – and reiterate with new approaches.
Ilse Protsman: Finally, we put people in the center of attention. We think using RFID solutions in stores should be fun for the staff operating it.

What is your forecast: where will the technology be in five years?

Tom Vieweger: The RFID market is incredibly dynamic. We are convinced to see more than 50 percent of fashion products being tagged in five years from now. From a technical perspective, we will see that systems will be more and more connected so that all stock movements can be tracked in real-time in an EPCIS repository from the source of production to the customer.
Picture: Nedap


* This article was originally published here

Monday, March 23, 2020

10 best fashion songs to drive work-from-home blues away

For many, working from home can be a challenge. Not only are there a myriad of distractions ranging from pending housework, the kids, pets, one’s spouse, food cravings and more to the exact opposite - a feeling of loneliness and isolation. What better way to beat the work-from-home blues with a playlist that has one grooving to the music in no time. If you ever wanted to dance like no one is watching, now is the time. FashionUnited has put together ten must-have songs and videos that every fashion aficionado should know.

“Too Funky” - George Michael

Ah, George Michael and his iconic video “Too Funky” in which he roped in supermodels like Linda Evangelista, Tyra Banks, Nadja Auermann and others to walk the ramp for him. None other than fashion designer Thierry Mugler designed and created the models’ outfits. “I am not trying to seduce you” is what the video claims but it’s hard not to get seduced by this creativity and star power, not to mention the catchy tune.

“I'm Too Sexy” - Right Said Fred

What started out as a joke soon turned into a superhit: When the Fairbrass brother of British band Right Said Fred ran their London gym, Richard sang “I’m too sexy for my shirt” in front of the mirror - shirtless - to mock the “narcissism and posing” he observed at the gym. Their catwalk dance, debuted in the video, was soon copied in clubs throughout the world.

“Freakum Dress” - Beyoncé

This video shows what singer Beyoncé gets up to when she’s been cooped up in the house too long - dressing not only herself up in glam dresses but also her girlfriends / backup singers. In case you feel like grooving to the music - she’ll tell you how.

“Fashion” - Lady Gaga

Another iconic catwalk video with Lady Gaga herself taking to the runway and performing her till then unreleased song, “Fashion”. She would go on to write three more songs with the word “fashion” in the title. As for this one, it’s worth giving the lyrics a thorough listen.

“Change Clothes”- Jay-Z featuring Pharrell Williams

This video and song lyrics by Jay-Z featuring Pharrell show the craziness behind the catwalk and the stressful job modeling can be. Or, brought to a point - “change clothes” - but do it fast. The video features appearances by other singers, talk show host Kelly Ripa and models like Jessica White, Jade Cole and the never-aging Naomi Campbell.

“Fashion is Danger” - Flight of the Conchords

New Zealand duo Jemaine Clement and Bret Mackenzie, better known as Flight of Conchords, pose in this quirky video as stylish 80’s glam rockers who have fun trying out different hairstyles by liberally applying hair gel. Listen at your own risk - the tune may be stuck in your head for the rest of the day.

“Labels or Love” - Fergie

This song about retail therapy by American singer Fergie quickly rose to fame as part of the soundtrack of the Sex and the City movie, released in 2008. It was even nominated for the People’s Choice Award but lost to Mama Mia! by Meryl Streep. Correctly judging by the song title, the lyrics read like a who’s who of fashion labels.

“Slave to the Rhythm”- Grace Jones

“Slave to the Rhythm” (not to be confused with the Michael Jackson by the same name) is not technically a fashion song but then, it’s Grace Jones, and it’s 1985. On top of that, the video is peppered with pictures of Grace Jones’ most iconic looks. What’s not to love?

“The Only Thing that Looks Good on Me Is You”- Bryan Adams

Talking about another classic - “The Only Thing that Looks Good on Me Is You” - is a quirky song plus an even quirkier video that has male and female models walking the catwalk in flashy and outrageous clothes. Hence the conclusion, even among designer outfits, the only thing that looks (truly) good on me is you.

“Pink”- Aerosmith

Last but not least, Aerosmith’s “Pink” - taking the catwalk to the extreme by letting go of traditional models as we know them. Instead, the band members and an assortment of characters, morphed into freaky weird models, move toward the camera, among them lead singer Steven Tyler as a skeleton, lead guitarist Joe Perry as a centaur, and rhythm and co-lead guitarist Brad Whitford as a little boy. Add to that Aerosmith’s trademark tunes and you have a winner. Need we say more?


* This article was originally published here

Sunday, March 22, 2020

AW2020/21 Womenswear colour trends on the catwalks

AW2020/21 Womenswear colour trends on the catwalks
Trendstop gives FashionUnited readers a first look at the key colour directions emerging from the women’s Fall Winter 2020-21 runway season.
Trendstop’s catwalk experts bring you the essential womenswear colour stories hitting the international catwalk scene. The season’s collections showcased a reinvention of conventional colour palettes as designers sought to inspire consumers with a series of fresh and unexpected combinations. Drawing on the big global conversations of the day, colour was used to express new visions and reflect the mindset evolution surrounding fashion. Our comprehensive, international catwalk coverage and dedicated colour galleries evaluate each trend’s commercial value, giving you the best possible basis for your decision making.
This week, FashionUnited readers get an exclusive look at three key colour groupings that will be crucial to informing your womenswear collections into FW20-21 and beyond. In a rapidly changing world, Delightful Vintage Combos reconnects us with the past through a comforting nostalgic aesthetic. Heightened awareness of the environment informs the calming shades seen in Eco Neutrals while the breaking down gender barriers is subtly referenced in Softly Masculine Autumnal Tones.
The traditional palette becomes richer and more refined in the sophisticated warmth of Almond Cream and Sunbaked Earth Tones. Youthful brights provide a fun aspect, bringing a dynamic energy to apparel and accessories.

Delightful Vintage Combos

Brining a Mid-Century sensibility to the runways, vibrant yet refined blocks of saturated pastels, golden yellows and retro browns reflect consumers’ renewed interest in nostalgic references. Evoking a sense of delight and playfulness, the palette captures the enduring allure of ‘looking back’ during times of uncertainty.

AW2020/21 Womenswear colour trends on the catwalks
Images courtesy of Trendstop, left to right: Prada, Christopher Kane, Tods, all Fall/Winter 2020-21

Eco Neutrals

Neutral colour grouping take their cue from the burgeoning sustainable and slow fashion movements. An important consideration for consumers, eco-inspired tones help reconnect with the natural environment. Cool, grey tinted taupe and beige combined with warm creamy hues elevate the palette to premium level while the considered application of softened brights provides a contemporary update.

AW2020/21 Womenswear colour trends on the catwalks
Images courtesy of Trendstop, left to right: Sies Marjan, Cividini, Agnona, all Fall/Winter 2020-21

Softly Masculine Autumnal Tones

As the fashion industry moves adopts a more gender-neutral stance, womenswear colour groupings subtly introduce shades from the menswear palette. Fall foliage greens with a hint of cold, earthen browns and flashes of cobalt are combined with contrasting soft lilacs and vintage pinks for a pleasing blend of the masculine and feminine.

AW2020/21 Womenswear colour trends on the catwalks
Images courtesy of Trendstop, left to right: Lovechild, Wooyoungmi, Tibi, all Fall/Winter 2020-21

Exclusive Offer

FashionUnited readers can get free access to Trendstop’s Women’s Pre Fall Neutral Colour Directions Report, a curated overview of the essential neutral tones from the Pre Fall presentations. Simply click here to receive your free report.
AW2020/21 Womenswear colour trends on the catwalks
Trendstop.com is one of the world's leading trend forecasting agencies for fashion and creative professionals, renowned for its insightful trend analysis and forecasts. Clients include H&M, Primark, Forever 21, Zalando, Geox, Evisu, Hugo Boss, L'Oreal and MTV.


* This article was originally published here