Roberto Cavalli, the Italian fashion designer, has died at 83

Robert Cavali, Cavalli F14 163 Credits: Spotlight Launchmetrics



Roberto Cavalli, the Italian designer best known for his bold prints, sensual designs, and pioneering spirit, passed away at the age of 83. Born on November 15, 1940, in Florence, Italy, Cavalli revolutionised the fashion industry with his distinctive style, blending exotic patterns and luxurious fabrics to create iconic pieces that adorned celebrities and fashionistas alike.


A taste for the exotic




Cavalli's eponymous fashion empire began in the early 1970s, quickly gaining recognition for its daring designs and distinctive aesthetic. Throughout the years, the brand expanded its offerings to include ready-to-wear, accessories, fragrances, and home decor.


In terms of ownership, the brand experienced several changes. In 2015, Italian private equity firm Clessidra SGR acquired a majority stake in Roberto Cavalli, with the founder retaining a minority share. However, financial difficulties led to the brand filing for bankruptcy protection in 2019. Subsequently, the Dubai-based fashion group, Vision Investment Co. LLC, acquired the majority of Roberto Cavalli's assets, aiming to revitalize the brand's fortunes.


As for creative direction, Roberto Cavalli himself was the driving force behind the brand's creative vision for decades. However, in 2015, he stepped down from his role as creative director, and Peter Dundas took the helm. Dundas brought his own interpretation of Cavalli's flamboyant style, infusing it with a modern edge. However, he departed from the brand in 2016.


Following Dundas' departure, the brand saw a series of creative directors, including Paul Surridge and Fausto Puglisi.


A statement released by the company said Cavalli came from humble beginnings in Florence and succeeded in becoming a globally recognised name loved and respected by all. "He was a natural artist and believed that everyone can discover the artist within themselves. Roberto Cavalli’s legacy will live on via his art, his creativity his love of nature, animals and via his family whom he cherished.”


“Dear Roberto, you may not be physically here with us anymore, but I know I will feel your spirit with me always. It is the greatest honour of my career to work under your legacy and to create for the brand you founded with such vision and style. Rest in peace you will be missed, and you are loved by so many that your name will continue on, a beacon of inspiration for others, and especially for me," said Fausto Puglisi, creative director at Roberto Cavalli since October 2020.


“The Roberto Cavalli company shares condolences with Mr. Cavalli’s family loss. His legacy remains a constant source of inspiration,” announced Sergio Azzolari, CEO at Roberto Cavalli.


http://dlvr.it/T5SncG

Restructuring plan of Signa Holding GmbH deflects into bankruptcy

Signa hoarding around the KaDeWe Group’s upcoming site at Carsch Haus in Dusseldorf, Germany. Credits: FashionUnited



Signa Holding GmbH, long-time co-owner of the Selfridges Group, is turning its insolvency proceedings into bankruptcy, the company announced in a press release. The restructuring plan is thus withdrawn. What the bankruptcy means for Belgian department store Inno is not yet known.


The focus of the restructuring plan was mainly on the value-based restructuring of the main associated companies, Signa Prime Selection AG and Signa Development Selection AG, the press release said. Creditors accepted a restructuring plan for the two companies with a 30 percent quota for unsecured insolvency creditors as recently as 18th March. These were approved at the general meeting of Signa Prime and Signa Development on Wednesday.


Signa Holding would participate as the fourth largest shareholder in the proceeds. “Signa Holding is therefore no longer expected to realise significant investment values from the investments in Signa Prima and Signa Development,” the company said in the press release. Signa Holding will be declared bankrupt, with court approval, by trustee Christof Stapf.


It is as yet unclear what the bankruptcy means for Belgian department store Inno. Earlier, however, it was announced that Inno would not be affected by the reorganisation. “Inno is healthy and follows an independent course from both Signa Holding and its German parent company Galeria. Our strategic repositioning in recent years has achieved its goal. In the 2021-2022 financial year, Inno achieved a positive EBITDA of more than 10 million euros, and we are also heading for an excellent result for the financial year that just ended,” reported Inno CEO Armin Devender in a press release at the time.


This article was originally published on FashionUnited.nl. Edited and translated by Simone Preuss.


http://dlvr.it/T5RmGP

Ebay introduces AI-powered ‘Shop the Look’ feature

Ebay launches AI-powered Shop the Look feature. Credits: Ebay.



Resale marketplace Ebay has introduced a new feature to its app that provides customers with a personalised carousel of inspirational outfits tailored to their shopping history.


Dubbed ‘Shop the Look’, the generative AI-powered addition looks to speak to users’ style preferences through recommendations made of images and items that evolve alongside the consumer and current trends.


Each of the outfits are made up of new and pre-owned apparel and luxury items, providing shoppers with access to a “vast breadth of inventory and selection” in a model that aims to push products that could naturally integrate with a consumer’s existing wardrobe.


According to the platform, the launch is a “step deeper” into its commitment to innovation and personalisation, and akin to other AI-powered features was developed in collaboration with the company’s Responsible AI team and RAI Principles.


The ‘Shop the Look’ feature is already available for US and UK customers on Apple’s iOS, and will later be rolled out to Android phones later this year. It will appear on the homepage and fashion landing page of shoppers who have looked at over 10 fashion items in the past 180 days.


Ebay noted that it is exploring potential expansions into other categories with the goal of enhancing the feature via new personalisation elements over the next year.


http://dlvr.it/T5Rm5s

Resurgence in US shopping centers signals shift in consumer behaviour

A pop-up at Hudson Yards Credits: Spanx



U.S. shopping centers are experiencing a notable resurgence, marking a promising shift in consumer’s shopping behavior. According to the latest update to Placer.ai's Mall Index for March, visits to shopping malls have seen a steady increase for the second consecutive month. The data reveals that visits to indoor malls surged by 9.7 percent year-over-year in March, while open-air shopping centers and outlet malls experienced even more substantial growth, with increases of 10.1 percent and 10.7 percent, respectively.


Visits to open-air shopping centers have not only rebounded but have surpassed pre-pandemic levels, showing a 1.6 percent increase compared to the first quarter of 2019. This resurgence is a promising indicator of the recovery and resilience of the shopping center industry.


The findings align closely with insights from their recent white paper titled "The Comeback of the Mall in 2024." The paper highlights the significant improvement in foot traffic to indoor malls, which saw a decline of only 5.8 percent in 2023 compared to 2019. This marks a remarkable turnaround from the more than 15 percent drop experienced in 2021. Similarly, open-air shopping centers saw a minimal decrease of just 1 percent in foot traffic last year compared to pre-pandemic levels.


Overall, the shopping center industry experienced a modest decline of 2.3 percent in foot traffic in 2023, indicating stabilization and the potential for a resurgence in 2024. With consumer confidence on the rise there appear to be renewed interest and opportunities for retailers and shoppers alike.


One mall that has seen success despite a tumultuous start when it opened in 2019, is Manhattan’s Hudson Yards, which has become a top shopping destination in New York. Last year, average monthly visits increased 19 percent year-on-year, far outpacing growth at other top malls, such as Bal Harbour Shops in Florida and the Mall of America in Minnesota, according to Placer.ai.


Despite numerous predictions of the demise of malls, recent consumer behaviour underscores the enduring significance of these retail hubs in the American market. Despite evolving consumer preferences, leading shopping centers have adeptly adjusted their offerings to align with current tastes, ensuring their continued relevance well into 2024 and beyond.


http://dlvr.it/T5Rlp7

Harm van de Camp is the new president of Alpargatas, Europe

Harm van de Camp Credits: Alpargatas



Havaianas has announced the appointment of Harm van de Camp as the new president for parent company Alpargatas, Europe.


With over 18 years of brand experience, the company said in a statement, Harm van de Camp brings to Alpargatas expertise gained at Nike serving in several EMEA leadership positions in wholesales as well as direct to consumer.


Commenting on his new role at Alpargatas, Harm van de Camp said: "I am looking forward to elevating the brand to new heights by committing to consumer relevance and operational excellence while keeping the Havaianas brand core values at heart; infusing European markets with the vibrancy of Brazilian culture."


In his role as president of Alpargatas, Europe, Harm van de Camp is expected to drive sustainable and profitable growth for the Havaianas brand, focusing on establishing a year-round consumer engagement through an integrated 360-brand approach, ensuring the brand’s continued success in the European market.


http://dlvr.it/T5Pq1N

Esprit begins negotiating with potential investors

Credits: Esprit



Esprit Holdings Limited is reportedly in talks with an international private equity firm to secure new funding. The fashion company is struggling to maintain its European operations, resulting in the bankruptcy of its Swiss and Belgian subsidiaries.


"The potential investor has expressed interest in submitting a non-legally binding memorandum of understanding for a possible cooperation," Esprit told The Wall Street Journal. "The potential collaboration is subject to the signing of the definitive transaction agreement. Therefore, the potential collaboration may or may not proceed."


Esprit Holdings Limited recorded a loss of 2.5 billion Hong Kong dollars in FY23, leading to a comprehensive restructuring, with the Swiss branch being the first to have gone under.


The bankruptcy of Esprit Belgium was later also declared on 8 April, causing the closure of 15 Esprit shops and resulting in 148 employees losing their jobs. The closed branches are owned by the parent company, while 10 independent operators continue to operate as normal under the Esprit banner.


Operations in Germany are also being tinkered with, as 40 shops operated by the company’s franchise partner PTH Group further closed their doors. Esprit has terminated its contract with the German company.


This article originally appeared on FashionUnited.NL. Translation and edit by: Rachel Douglass.


http://dlvr.it/T5PpLT

Blake Harrop to join Louis Vuitton as EVP image and communications

Blake Harrop Credits: Louis Vuitton



Louis Vuitton has appointed Blake Harrop as executive vice president, image and communications effective May 1, 2024.


Based at the Maison’s headquarters in Paris, the company said he joins the management committee, reporting to Pietro Beccari, Louis Vuitton’s chairman and CEO.


The company added that Blake holds extensive communications and marketing expertise, with over 20 years of international experience, over half of which was acquired at the advertising agency Wieden + Kennedy. President of the agency since 2022, Blake previously headed the agency’s offices in Shanghai, Tokyo and Amsterdam.


Prior to this, Blake was global head of digital marketing at Samsung in South Korea, rolling out the company’s first social media campaigns.


At Louis Vuitton, Blake will be responsible for managing both the image and communications strategy, supported by his teams.


http://dlvr.it/T5PTwM

World’s largest fashion brands are using tainted cotton, says investigation

Rainforest Credits: Pexels



Brazil has long been under scrutiny for deforestation of the Amazon rainforest, but new research from Earthsight shows the destruction of the Cerrado biome, a biodiversity hotspot, has largely escaped notice. While efforts to address the Amazon's plight have seen some progress, deforestation rates in the Cerrado are worsening, driven in part by the demand for cotton by major fashion brands like H&M and Zara. Earthsight's investigation reveals the complicity of these corporations and their consumers in environmental degradation, land grabbing, and human rights abuses in the Cerrado.


According to Earthsight’s findings, H&M and Zara as global leaders in fast fashion indirectly contribute to the destruction of the Cerrado by sourcing cotton from Brazilian suppliers implicated in illegal activities. These suppliers, such as SLC Agrícola and the Horita Group, have extensive land holdings in the Cerrado, where they engage in widespread deforestation and environmental violations. Despite claims of sustainability, H&M and Zara's reliance on a flawed certification system fails to ensure ethical sourcing practices, allowing tainted cotton to enter their supply chains.


Challenges in addressing the environmental impact of Cerrado cotton production




The environmental and social impact of cotton production in the Cerrado is profound, with native vegetation loss, habitat destruction, and human rights abuses affecting traditional communities, Earthsight argues. Efforts to hold agribusiness accountable have been hindered by corruption, government neglect, and weak regulatory oversight. While initiatives like the Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive in the EU aim to address supply chain transparency and accountability, political obstacles and industry resistance pose challenges to effective regulation.


To address the systemic issues driving the destruction of the Cerrado, Earthsight believes robust regulatory measures are needed, including stronger enforcement of existing laws and the expansion of legislation to cover cotton and fashion supply chains. They also suggest that the private sector must also take responsibility by demanding greater transparency from suppliers, implementing rigorous ethical sourcing policies, and supporting initiatives that promote environmental and social sustainability. Ultimately, collective action from governments, businesses, and consumers is essential to mitigate the devastating impact of industrial agriculture on the Cerrado and its communities.


http://dlvr.it/T5NNH8

BFC reveals new ‘cultural moment’ concept for London Fashion Week June

Robyn Lynch AW24. Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight



In what comes as a part of continued efforts to rejuvenate its mission, the British Fashion Council (BFC) has revealed a new concept for its upcoming London Fashion Week (LFW), set to take place from June 7 to 9.


The event, which will be presented by headline sponsor 1664 Blanc, “aims to ignite a cultural moment in London”, the council said in the announcement, offering a platform for diverse British designers as well as “brands with a focus on the depth and breadth of menswear business in the UK”.


Ultimately, the BFC stated that LFW June’s ambition moving forward was to spotlight different cultures and communities that have made “a rich and significant contribution to the British fashion industry”.


As such, on June 7, BFC will be hosting a curated programme at the Institute of Contemporary Arts, where an exhibition, panel discussions and cultural events will be held putting to the forefront the first three cultures the organisation has chosen.


Black culture and self-love; South Asian culture with a focus on textile and craftsmanship; and queer culture honouring voices from the trans community will be touched on during the event in collaboration with three guest curators.


‘We want to ensure we are recognising the business needs of our designers…’




This will run alongside the ‘40 for 40’ schedule celebrating LFW’s 40th anniversary, with the same number of activations to be held by British brands and designers across the city.


In a release, Caroline Rush, CEO of the BFC, said: “As we continue our celebrations of LFW40, we are thrilled to share a new concept for LFW June which will amplify our designers and promote the diverse menswear businesses, from streetwear to Savile Row, as well as retail in the city.


“We will celebrate and pay homage to some of the cultures which contribute so much to the UK fashion industry, the aim is to build on this with different cultures each year. The new format is a direct result of the conversations we are continuously having with the BFC community (designers, media, UK and international retailers).


“We want to ensure we are recognising the business needs of our designers and providing them with a global showcasing platform which is both relevant and beneficial. This iteration of LFW is a really exciting opportunity to future proof and innovate the UK’s fashion showcasing capabilities and highlight the city’s point of difference during men’s fashion month. We look forward to launching this new format with the support of 1664 Blanc.”

Read more:



* London Fashion Week initiates ‘transformation phase’ with experimental format






* BFC outlines new strategy to make fashion a ‘catalyst of change’






* Aaron Esh reflects on London’s emerging designer landscape and fashion week support systems


http://dlvr.it/T5MZpl

Roots Q4 sales decline by 2.9 percent

Roots Credits: Roots via Facebook



Outdoor lifestyle brand Roots sales were 108.2 million Canadian dollars in the fourth quarter, down 2.9 percent. DTC sales of 97.8 million Canadian dollars were down 0.8 percent year-over-year.


Total sales decreased 3.5 percent to 262.7 million Canadian dollars in FY2023 and DTC sales were 222.5 million Canadian dollars, down 3.8 percent.


The company said in a release that the positive omni-channel traffic experienced throughout the quarter was offset by declines in conversion and sales growth in core fleece and active categories were offset by declines in certain seasonal collections, including colder weather outerwear and accessories.


"We continue to take significant steps to enhance our operations, strengthen our relationships with our customers, and make exceptional products. I remain confident in the longer-term growth prospects for the brand as the market normalises," commented Meghan Roach, president & CEO of Roots.


The company’s P&O sales (wholesale Roots branded products, licensing to select manufacturing partners and the sale of certain custom products) amounted to 10.5 million Canadian dollars in the fourth quarter, down 18.9 percent. P&O sales for the full year amounted to 40.2 million Canadian dollars compared to 40.9 million Canadian dollars in F2022.


Gross profit for the quarter reached 63.4 million Canadian dollars, an increase of 0.7 percent, while gross margin of 58.6 percent rose 210 bps. Net income increased to 14.6 million Canadian dollars or 0.36 Canadian dollars per share, while adjusted EBITDA amounted to 23.2 million Canadian dollars.


FY23 gross profit was 152.5 million Canadian dollars, a decline of 2.9 percent, while gross margin was 58 percent, up 30 bps. Net income dropped to 1.8 million Canadian dollars or 0.05 Canadian dollars per share and adjusted EBITDA declined to 19.9 million Canadian dollars.


http://dlvr.it/T5MDHy

Investors brace for luxury slowdown in Q1

Stock exchange Credits: Pexels



Investors are bracing for a notable downturn in luxury sales as companies prepare to release their first-quarter results, reflecting weakened demand from China, reported Reuters. Kering's unexpected forecast of a 10 percent decline in first-quarter sales, contrasting with the 3 percent anticipated by analysts, has already cast a shadow over the reporting season, primarily attributed to a sales slump in Asia, notably from its flagship label Gucci, raising concerns about broader high-end fashion brand performance in China.


The slowdown is exacerbated by reduced spending from Chinese tourists in destinations like Hong Kong, Macau, and Singapore, contributing to Kering's lower valuation compared to peers like LVMH and Hermes. Following Kering's announcement, its shares fell by 15 percent, alongside declines of 7 percent for LVMH and 2 percent for Hermes, Reuters noted, underlining uncertainties surrounding the recovery of luxury goods demand amid easing comparative figures.


Analysts project a slowdown in global luxury sales growth to mid-single-digit percentages, significantly lower than last year's nearly 9 percent, signaling challenges amidst changing consumer preferences and economic uncertainties.


http://dlvr.it/T5Kxl5

Giorgio Armani’s supply chain fiasco highlights complexity

Spotlight Launchmetrics Credits: Backstage at Giorgio Armani SS24



Opinion
Workers in an Italian factory who were found to be exploited while producing accessories for Giorgio Armani highlight the complexity of fashion supply chains. Even in a heavily regulated continent like Europe, it is possible to evade the systems in place to ensure worker safety and protection.


Fashion supply chains are fragmented, involving multiple entities in the production process, including suppliers of raw materials, manufacturers, subcontractors, logistics providers, and retailers. While Giorgio Armani likely had no knowledge of worker conditions at subcontractors, which were outsourced to an unauthorized Chinese subcontractor, it is clear that the production gap between luxury and fast fashion is minimal. Furthermore, luxury brands cannot absolve themselves of exploitation. With each entity operating independently, tracing the entire supply chain and monitoring working conditions, environmental practices, and product quality at each stage is challenging for the brand whose products are being made.


Italian police revealed the cost margins of Armani's outsourced accessories, which were found to cost 93 euros to make, were sold to Armani for 250 euros by the intermediary, and subsequently retailed for 1,800 euros. While luxury brands often justify their high prices by emphasising factors such as craftsmanship, exclusivity, and brand heritage, it is now evident that these markups are often excessive and lack transparency. A markup of 1838.71 percent between the original cost and retail price is remarkably high but is consistent with most luxury brands' pricing strategies.


The only way to keep production costs low was for the Chinese factory producing the products to use low labour costs by resorting to off-the-books and illegal workers, reported news outlet AFP. Workers were likely paid 2 to 3 euros per hour, well below Italy's ethical minimum wage.


Accountability




Holding subcontracted production accountable for exploiting workers would require a multifaceted approach involving various stakeholders, regulations, and enforcement mechanisms. While auditing seems the obvious answer, fashion brands must increase transparency throughout their supply chains by mapping out all subcontractors and disclosing their identities to the public. Conducting thorough due diligence to assess the labour practices of subcontractors is essential.


Brands should include clauses in supplier contracts that explicitly prohibit labour exploitation, child labour, forced labour, and other unethical practices. These contracts should also outline consequences for non-compliance, including termination of the business relationship.


http://dlvr.it/T5KxRT

FW24 Key Trend: In and out of the boudoir

Boudoir Dressing main image Credits: Boudoir
Dressing©Launchmetrics/spotlight


“What goes around comes around,” is the saying, and this was certainly
one of the strongest messages of the Fall/Winter 2024 runway season.
Designers harked back to the 1920s and 1930s, and more specifically,
the garments found in a stylish woman’s boudoir, including corsets,
satin and lace underwear, slips and other sheer layers, in a color
palette that included shades of black, ochre, pale pink and nude,
peach and ivory.




With populism on the rise again in the US and in Europe, and wars on
two fronts that seem to have no endgame, it’s no mystery why
reflecting on the turbulent period between the two world wars is in
the zeitgeist.


Case in point: April 2024 will see another revival of ‘Cabaret’ on
Broadway. Set in Berlin in the early 1930s, the musical focuses on the
hedonistic nightlife at a cabaret club juxtaposed with the rise of the
Nazis. Eddie Redmayne, Gayle Rankin and the rest of the Kit Kat club
will undoubtedly be wardrobed in various states of deshabille. And the
2023 documentary, “Eldorado: Everything the Nazis Hate” used
historical footage of the storied nightclub to provide a fascinating
portrait of subversion in the face of growing fascism.



Below are some of the season’s ‘boudoir dressing’ highlights.


Sheer Layers




Using sheer layers to create a transparent look has become a major
trend in recent seasons. Fashion critics have offered a number of
reasons, including celebrity influence and the embracing of body
positivity. On the other hand, some have mused that the increasing use
of the drug Ozempic to lose weight has engendered a desire to show off
a smaller frame.

Saint Laurent FW24/ Look 27 Credits: Saint Laurent
FW24/©Launchmetrics/spotlight


The Saint Laurent designer, Antony Vaccarello, showed 48 looks, almost
all of which included transparent garments.

16Arlington FW24/ Look 25 Credits: 16Arlington
FW24/©Launchmetrics/spotlight


Marco Capaldo of 16Arlington presented several sheer dresses and
skirts. Look 25 was a standout, an ochre-colored full-length gown with
a turtleneck, cutaway shoulders and gathering at the hips.

Valentino FW24/ Look 9 Credits: Valentino
FW24/©Launchmetrics/spotlight


In what we now know was Pierpaolo Piccioli’s final collection for
Valentino, the designer also included several versions of ‘naked
dressing.’ Look 9 included a sheer black layer with a turtleneck over
black lace undergarments.

Huishan Zhang FW24/ Look 33 Credits: Huishan Zhang
FW24/©Launchmetrics/spotlight


Huishan Zang said he was inspired by ‘old Hollywood’ which was evident
in his use of satin, silk, lace and ruffles. Look 33 was a
peach-colored lace shift embellished with a diagonally placed trim.


Feathers and Fur

Erdem FW24/ Look 8 Credits: Erdem
FW24/©Launchmetrics/spotlight


Erdem Moralioglu used his FW24 collection to pay tribute to the Greek
operatic soprano, Maria Callas, and her wardrobe, both on and
off-stage. Look 8 included a marabou feather stole in shades of pink,
white and fuchsia, shown over a white bra and slip.

Michael Kors FW24/ Look 29 Credits: Michael Kors
FW24/©Launchmetrics/spotlight


Michael Kors used photos of his grandparents in the 1930s as
inspiration for his collection. Look 29 included a pale pink Mongolian
fur cocoon coat over a satin dress with Fortuny pleating.


Corsetry

In the 1930s, corsetry was literally the foundation of any look.
Dilara Findikoglu FW24/ Look 14 Credits: Dilara
Findikoglu FW24/©Launchmetrics/spotlight


Dilara Findikoglu’s FW24 collection was entitled ‘Femme Vortex’ and
focused on the idea of “divine feminine power.” For look 14, she
presented a boned lace-up front corset in a pale nude chiffon with a
paneled skirt and long pink latex gloves.

Annie's Ibiza FW24/ Look 25 Credits: Annie's Ibiza
FW24/©Launchmetrics/spotlight


Look 25 at Annie’s Ibiza, (designed by Annie Doble), was a
peach-colored strapless silk/satin corset embroidered with flowers and
matching knickers.


Lingerie




In recent seasons it has become de rigueur for designers to show
lingerie items as an integral part of a look. FW24 was no exception.

Ermanno Scervino FW24/ Look 33 Credits: Ermanno
Scervino FW24/©Launchmetrics/spotlight


Ermanno Scervino called his FW24 collection, ‘Fashion Atlas,’ which he
said was a reference to a sort of map where the cardinal points were
shapes of women’s bodies. For look 33, the designer paired a
nude-colored vintage style bra with a peach midi skirt in pressed
leather.

Saint Laurent FW24/ Look 17 Credits: Saint Laurent
FW24/©Launchmetrics/spotlight


While most of the Saint Laurent collection was rendered in sheer
fabrics, look 17 was an exception. A gold-colored satin blouse was
given suspenders to hold up chocolate brown sparkling stockings.


Leopard Print




At times, the boudoir dressing trend falls in line with the ‘mob wives
aesthetic’ Both focused on leopard as a major print.

Zimmermann FW24/ Look 3 Credits: Zimmermann
FW24/©Launchmetrics/spotlight


Nicky Zimmermann showed a collection full of soft and billowing
shapes. One such style was look 3, a diaphanous dress with a high/low
hem, matching scarf and hose, all in a classic leopard print.

Versace FW24/ Look 33 Credits: Versace
FW24/©Launchmetrics/spotlight


At Versace, look 33 was a body-conscious leotard and matching stirrup
leggings in a mix of brown leopard and a gold scroll print.


Le Smoking




Women in tuxedos may seem the opposite of ‘boudoir dressing’ but as
Yves Saint Laurent stated, “A woman wearing a suit is anything but
masculine. A strict, clean cut accentuates her femininity, her
seductiveness, her ambiguity.”

Dolce & Gabbana FW24/ Look 11 Credits: Dolce &
Gabbana FW24/©Launchmetrics/spotlight


At Dolce & Gabbana, the duo focused most of their collection on the
idea of the tuxedo, showing a variety of renditions over sexy lingerie
items, including boxy and nipped-in-the-waist shapes.

Dolce & Gabbana FW24/ Look 17 Credits: Dolce &
Gabbana FW24/©Launchmetrics/spotlight Dolce & Gabbana FW24/ Look 24 Credits: Dolce &
Gabbana FW24/©Launchmetrics/spotlight
Read more:


* The Mob Wife Aesthetic






* How to use Pantone’s 2024 color of the year: Peach
Fuzz






* Three body conscious trends from NYFW SS24: sheer
fabrics, crochet and lace


http://dlvr.it/T5KYST

P448 announces JV with The Camp Brands to expand presence across Europe

P448 store in New York Credits: P448



P448 has announced a joint venture partnership with The Camp Brands to expand and grow P448's European wholesale distribution and open stores in Europe. In addition, The Camp Brands will also manufacture and market P448 branded apparel globally.


The company said in a release that the new division will be called P448 Europa, and managed by its newly appointed managing director Javier Carrera, who as co-founder and managing partner of The Camp Brands has experience marketing sportswear and fashion brands with past executive roles at Quiksilver and Nike.


"With Javier and the team, I have found the perfect international expansion partners for P448," said Wayne Kulkin, executive chairman of Street Trend LLC.


“To be able at this time in our story to build out and expand throughout Europe providing easier access to our latest offerings with new retail stores, first rate servicing and more wholesale channels is a giant tipping point for the company," Kulkin added.


In the past year, P448 experienced a 55 percent sales growth within its European ecommerce site. Capitalising on this momentum, the company added, P448 will open retail stores in key European cities over the next 10 years, making the streetwear brand available to its loyal core consumers within existing European markets as well as in new countries like Sweden, Poland and Denmark.


Commenting on its JV with P448, Javier Carrera said: "Taking the core values of its brand philosophy as a truly designed and made in Italy footwear brand, mixed with its activism on sustainable driven product initiatives, The Camp Brands and I are thrilled to enlarge the brand's footprint and exposure with not only a full apparel collection, but also contribute to its growth within the retail and wholesale arenas."


The company further said that while the new apparel collection will officially debut fall 2025, a soft small capsule will launch in September 2024 to entice customers. The apparel collection is designed with eco-friendly materials stamped with environmental certifications at an accessible price. The range made in Europe is available at both retail and wholesale channels.


http://dlvr.it/T5JlRK

team of the week: the Fair Isle sweater

Woolrich, Superdry and PME Legend. Credits:
FashionUnited Marketplace.

What it is:




Geometric patterns are the defining mark of a Fair Isle sweater, a staple
knitwear item that has made its way from the coast of 18th century Scotland
to the runways of luxury designers. The sweater aptly takes its name from
the Fair Isles, where it is believed that a fisherman began experimenting
with the look firstly in the form of hats. Now, this piece of former
fishing workwear has become a classic, favoured by luxury labels
year-after-year for their autumn/winter runways. The knit itself takes its
own distinguished shape, an ‘OXO’ pattern that is repeated throughout the
garment, while prints that adorn the garment can range from fellow farm
animals to winter-themed symbology.
Brora. Credits: FashionUnited
Marketplace.

Why you’ll want it:




As mentioned, the Fair Isle sweater has become somewhat of a fashion
wardrobe must-have, endorsed by luxury labels and celebrities alike, who
have increasingly taken to the piece of knitwear over recent years. As
such, while the premise of the design has remained firmly in place, it has
seen a series of contemporary updates, namely in the way of colours and
pattern, the latter of which can now be found beyond just the neckline and
often instead traverses the body of the entire garment. These updates have
ensured that the sweater remains steadfast in the relevance of the
ever-evolving consumer, the younger of which are favouring these
generationally nostalgic items as part of current trends.
Madewell. Credits: FashionUnited
Marketplace.

Where we’ve seen it:




There was a slew of Fair Isle sweaters on the autumn/winter 2024 runway,
with menswear brands in particular showing a certain affinity for the look.
Among those incorporating a more traditional take on the design were the
likes of Officine Générale, Sacai and Kolor. The latter two brought in a
bold yellow hue for their own patterns, yet still stuck largely to subdued
colours elsewhere. This contrasted with the styles of Loewe and White
Mountaineering, both of which extended their geometric patterns down the
length of their garments, and infused a mix of shades into their intricate
designs.
Pieces. Credits: FashionUnited
Marketplace.

How to style it:




Looking at styling for transitional periods, the Fair Isle sweater can be
incorporated into an academia-inspired look. Pair the piece with a short,
pleated skirt or shorts and round it off with loafers, ankle socks and a
cap for a simple daily combination. For colder weather, the sweater can be
worn with any form of trouser, be it wide-cut jeans, baggy corduroys or
tailored office pants with a loose-fit. Each pant style works well with a
variety of shoe types, but white sneakers are a simple and effective
footwear to finish the outfit off.
Selected Homme. Credits: FashionUnited
Marketplace.


While its background and roots may be based deep in the confines of a
fisherman’s wardrobe, the Fair Isle sweater has worked its way up to become
something of a luxury staple. This has given way to modernised
interpretations of the look from high street brands, bringing the sweater
to a new, younger audience who are discovering its versatility for the
first time.
Na-kd. Credits: FashionUnited
Marketplace.




Similar items available for (pre)order can be found in the FashionUnited
Marketplace. You can
find them by clicking on this link.


http://dlvr.it/T5JSGV

Chanel joins luxury retail battle for Manhattan's Fifth Avenue

The race to acquire luxury real estate is getting hotter as Chanel and Louis Vuitton are bidding for the same building in Manhattan’s prestigious Fifth Avenue retail area.


As top-tier luxury brands vie for their space in the world’s most iconic shopping corridors, the building at 745 Fifth Ave and 58th Street is a most prestige location and according to Bloomberg has both companies interested in its acquisition.


The pursuit of properties along Manhattan's Fifth Avenue underscores the intensifying competition among global luxury retailers seeking to establish ownership in the US market and New York as a lucrative shopping destination.


Earlier this year, Kering SA acquired a property at 715-717 Fifth Ave. for a staggering 963 million dollars and Prada recently purchased the flagship store at 724 Fifth Avenue for 425 million dollars that it previously had been leasing.


Beyond the confines of New York City, luxury retailers are extending their property investments worldwide. Earlier this month Kering acquired Milan’s most expensive property for 1.3 billion euros, after also making notable acquisitions in Tokyo and Paris. This signals a broader trend of global property acquisitions within the luxury retail sector and shows no signs of slowing down.


http://dlvr.it/T5HW0t

L’Occitane halts trading ahead of possible buyout announcement

L'Occitane en Provence Credits: FashionUnited



Cosmetics giant L’Occitane has announced that it has halted the trading of its shares pending an announcement related to takeover and merger codes.


The revelation comes amid recent media speculation suggesting that asset management firm Blackstone Inc. was circling the skincare group, mulling a bid while conducting preliminary due diligence, as Bloomberg News reported last week.


According to the media outlet, L’Occitane International’s owner Reinold Geiger and Blackstone are now said to be nearing a deal to take the company private, potentially bringing to an end its long-term listing on the Hong Kong Stock Exchange.


Since the beginning of the year, L’Occitane has been under the guidance of its newly appointed chief executive officer Laurent Marteau, who joined the company as part of efforts to evolve leadership structure.


At the time of the announcement, the retailer said that it was aiming to transform itself into a “geographically balanced, multi-brand group” that delivered value for all of its stakeholders.


For the nine month period ended December 31, 2023, the company reported an 18.9 percent growth in sales, reaching 1.9 million euros across the group.


In the financial report, L’Occitane said the growth had been driven mainly by the positive performance of Elemis, the growth of L’Occitane en Provence in China and the continued outperformance of Sol de Janeiro.


http://dlvr.it/T5H7P6

H&M and Shanghai Fashion Week to partner on collaborative collection

Staffonly AW23, Shanghai Fashion Week. Credits: Dia Communications



Swedish fashion giant H&M has announced it will be partnering with Shanghai Fashion Week on a new collaborative collection with Chinese designers in a bid to showcase local design.


Set to be released in autumn 2024, the collection will come as part of the duo’s efforts to diversify commercial channels and leverage fashion industry resources as they aim to support contemporary Chinese fashion.


Building on Shanghai Fashion Week’s development and promotion of original Chinese designers, H&M said in a release that it wants to support both the country’s fashion industry and its fashion talents while providing the retailer’s own customers with a “wider selection of personalised and high-quality fashion products”.


Speaking on the fashion week itself, H&M added that the event had “attracted numerous outstanding designers and brands from both China and abroad over the years” and as such had served as “an important stage for Chinese designers to make their mark and gain global recognition”.


While details of which designers would be participating in the collaboration and how the launch would be rolled out were not disclosed, H&M did reveal that the collection would be released during the next Shanghai Fashion Week, when shows for the upcoming spring/summer 2025 season are to be exhibited.

Read more:



* From sleepyheads to night owls: The highlights of Shanghai Fashion Week AW24






* Shanghai Fashion Week: China’s showrooms prepare for international comeback






* Stella McCartney to make Shanghai Fashion Week debut, SS24 schedule released


http://dlvr.it/T5H6z2

China's Joy Group posts 48 percent jump in 2023 revenues

Joy Group Credits: Joy Group



Shanghai Juyi Cosmetics (Joy Group) retail sales of 450 million dollars, accompanied by a revenue of 360 million dollars, increased by 48 percent in 2023 excluding René Furterer.


This achievement, the company said in a statement, marks another year of sustained double-digit growth with healthy profitability, which has set Joy Group on the path to becoming one of China's most rapidly expanding cosmetics companies.


Comprising three major brands – Judydoll, Joocyee and René Furterer (China operations) – the Group's product offerings cover various beauty sectors, including colour cosmetics, hair, and scalp care.


In 2023, the company added, Judydoll alone recorded an annual revenue of 232 million dollars, growth of 66 percent, while Joocyee brand achieved an annual revenue of 130 million dollars, reflecting an increase of over 25 percent.


In October 2023, the company forged a strategic partnership with Pierre Fabre Laboratories. Commencing January 1, 2024, Joy Group assumed responsibility for all operations of the premium hair and scalp care brand René Furterer in China.


The company now manages an extensive network including flagship stores in major e-commerce platforms, over 50 offline boutiques, and a nationwide presence in over 10,000 offline colour cosmetic stores across China. Additionally, with its wholly owned cosmetics factory and laboratories, Joy Group boasts the capabilities of a full turn-key supply chain, including research & development, manufacturing, marketing, and sales.


Since 2020, the company has actively expanded its reach into overseas markets, gaining significant traction in Japan and ASEAN markets. The company aims to further extend its presence to high-growth potential markets such as Australia, Canada, and the Middle East.


http://dlvr.it/T5GJRh

Dover Street Market to open Paris flagship

Denim Tears Installation, Dover Street Market London Credits: Courtesy of Dover Street Market



The British Japanese concept store Dover Street Market is set to unveil its new Parisian flagship on April 27th. The innovative space will serve as both the headquarters for the Rei Kawakubo and Adrian Joffe brand in France and a dynamic hub for fashion experimentalism. Additionally, the 3,500 sqm store will house the 'brand development' division, which supports and distributes approximately fifteen emerging brands, including Airei, Erl, Honey F -king Dijon, Liberal Youth Ministry, Olly Shinder, and Phileo.


Located in the Marais district at numbers 35-37 rue des Francs-Bourgeois, the store is positioned to serve as a vibrant center for exchange and collaboration. Over the past two years, it has played host to pop-up stores, fashion shows, events, artists, emerging talents, and even accommodated a 1909 bookshop, as reported by Fashion Network France.


True to its reputation, the new establishment will offer a diverse array of products, including Comme des Garçons collections and a carefully curated selection of avant-garde designers and luxury brands. Notably, British designer Charles Jeffrey's label Loverboy will reinterpret specific archive pieces chosen by Rei Kawakubo for the occasion.


The addition of the Parisian flagship to Dover Street Market's existing network of concept stores in major cities such as London, Tokyo, New York, Los Angeles, Beijing, and Singapore marks the brand's twentieth anniversary milestone, which was founded with a boutique in London’s namesake Mayfair location in 2004.


http://dlvr.it/T5FMXc

Global sustainable fashion market to hit 33 billion dollars by 2030

Sustainable Fashion Market Credits: GS1



The global sustainable fashion market, valued at 7.8 billion dollars in 2023, is on a trajectory of rapid expansion, with projections indicating it will soar to 33.05 billion dollars by 2030, as per a recent report by Coherent Market Insights.


The eco fashion market segment is defined by a focus on sustainable and organic materials, manufacturing through sustainable processes, and a fundamental shift in the fashion industry towards more responsible practices.


At the heart of this growth is the escalating consumer awareness concerning environmental sustainability and social responsibility, driving a surge in demand for sustainable fashion alternatives. Simultaneously, stringent governmental regulations mandating sustainable practices within the fashion sector further propel market expansion.


Market Trends




A notable trend in this domain is the rise of circular fashion, which advocates for the reuse, recycling, and upcycling of garments to reduce waste and minimize environmental impact. Additionally, there's a noticeable uptick in the usage of eco-friendly materials like organic cotton and recycled polyester, aligning with the growing demand for ethically sourced apparel.


Opportunities




The burgeoning sustainable fashion market presents enticing opportunities, fueled by increasing consumer inclination towards eco-conscious products. As consumers gravitate towards brands prioritizing sustainability, there's a palpable demand for ethically manufactured apparel, footwear, and accessories. Moreover, the rising adoption of recycled and organic fabrics expands market potential, catering to a growing cohort of environmentally mindful consumers.


Key report takeaways




The Global Sustainable Fashion Market report anticipates a robust compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 22.9 percent during 2023-2030, driven by escalating consumer demand and the increasing adoption of eco-friendly fabrics. Apparel emerges as a dominant segment, propelled by consumer preference for sustainable clothing, while recycled fabrics witness ascension, mirroring the surge in demand for eco-friendly materials.


The dominance of the men's fashion segment underscores the growing interest in sustainable fashion among male consumers. Moreover, online retail emerges as a dominant distribution channel, aligning with evolving consumer shopping preferences. North America leads the market, buoyed by a substantial cohort of environmentally conscious consumers and a burgeoning demand for sustainable fashion products.


For more information and to see the report visit www.coherentmarketinginsights.com.


http://dlvr.it/T5F41g

EU dismisses case against fashion companies accused of ‘cartel’ practices

European flag. Credits: via Unsplash



Antitrust regulators for the European Union (EU) have reportedly scrapped an investigation into a group of fashion companies that it had raided over claims of “cartel practices”.


According to a report by the European Commission seen by Reuters, the dismissal of the two-year investigation was down to “priority reasons”.


The competition watchdog had initiated the move against several unnamed fashion firms in May 2022, citing at the time concerns of alleged cartel practices to fix prices, a process that would violate EU rules against restrictive business methods.


Following the launch, it was revealed that the raids had been carried out against a group of designers who had called for changes in sale periods and discounts in an open letter issued earlier in 2020.


Signatories of the letter requested to shift selling periods to the seasons they aligned to, as well as adjust the schedule of discounting to be at the end of the season to allow for more full-price selling.


The open letter had been signed by hundreds of fashion-based companies, including Dries Van Noten, Gabriela Hearst, Altuzarra and Thom Browne, among many others.


Now, however, it appears that the investigation has been put to a halt. At least for now.


A spokesperson for the commission told Reuters: "The closure is not a finding of compliance or non-compliance of the conduct in question with EU competition rules.


"The commission may open a new investigation into the same conduct, should new evidence emerge that would warrant further investigation."


http://dlvr.it/T5DhYF

Pakistan's delicate Eid bangles go from furnace to forearms

Muslim women shop for bangles ahead of Eid al-Fitr. Photo by Arif ALI / AFP



Layers of intricately
decorated bangles are a staple fashion accessory for women in Pakistan, a
carefully considered part of their Islamic Eid-al-Fitr celebrations.


More than a dozen people can be involved in the making of a single bangle,
from sweltering factories to the homes of designers who skilfully decorate
them by hand.


"Whatever the fashion trends, when we attend any event and wear any outfit
it feels incomplete without bangles," said 42-year-old Talat Zahid, who uses
beads, stitching and embroidery to embellish bangles.


"Even if you don't wear jewellery but wear bangles or a bracelet with your
outfit, the outfit looks complete."


In the lead-up to this week's Eid-al-Fitr festivities that mark the end of
Ramadan, market stalls are adorned with a glittering array of colourful
bangles, each turned over and inspected for their beauty and imperfections by
women who haggle for a good price.


They are often sold by the dozen, starting at around 150 rupees (about 50
cents) and rising to 1,000 rupees as stones and silk are added.


Hyderabad is home to the delicate "churi" glass bangle, where a single
furnace can produce up to 100 bangles an hour from molten glass wire shaped
around an iron rod.


The work is arduous and frustrating -- labourers are exposed to oppressive
temperatures in unregulated factories prone to frequent power cuts, while the
fragile glass threads can snap easily.


"The work is done without a fan. If we turn on the fan the fire is
extinguished. So the heat intensity is high. As it becomes hotter our work
slows down," said 24-year-old Sameer, who followed his father into the
industry and earns less than the minimum wage of 32,000 rupees ($115) a month.


After the partition of British-ruled India in 1947, migrating Muslims who
had produced bangles in the Indian city of Firozabad took their trade to
Hyderabad -- where hundreds of thousands of people rely on the industry.


But soaring gas prices after the government slashed subsidies have forced
many factories to close or to operate at reduced hours.


"The speed at which the government has increased the gas prices and taxes,
(means) the work in this area has started to shrink instead of expand," said
50-year-old factory owner Muhammad Nafees.


Most bangles leave the factory as plain loops, sent off to be embellished
to different degrees by women who work from home, before they're finally
passed on to traders to be sold in markets.


The production is often a family affair.


Saima Bibi, 25, works from home, carefully adding stones to bangles with
the help of her three children when they return from school, while her husband
works at the furnaces.


"They go through a lot of hands to be prepared," she said.(AFP)


http://dlvr.it/T5DhDL