Hackett London opens new store dedicated to premium line

Hackett London New Bond Street store Credits: Hackett London



Interview


Heritage British brand Hackett London, part of Spain-based fashion group AWWG, has opened a new store on New Bond Street, the world’s first to be fully dedicated to its premium Savile Row ready-to-wear collection.


The new location at 69 New Bond Street is part of the menswear brand’s strategy to drive brand recognition and allow its premium ready-to-wear line “to breathe,” said Gianni Colarossi, vice president of Hackett Product at AWWG in an interview with FashionUnited.


Colarossi, added: “No.14 Savile Row Collection is effortless elegance, never contrived or forced, just beautifully tailored clothing, and the Bond Street store allows us to fully spotlight our growing collection, which each season keeps developing into a full lifestyle offering.”


The new 2,350 square foot store has been designed to not only test the market for its aspirational premium offering but to complement its other West End locations, including its Savile Row townhouse, where its atelier is located for custom made-to-measure suits, and its Regent Street and Jermyn Street stores.


Hackett London's Gianni Colarossi and Dan Slater in the New Bond Street store Credits: Hackett London



“This store shows how Hackett is evolving,” explained Dan Slater, vice president of Hackett Retail at AWWG on a tour of the store. “No two Hackett stores are the same, and we wanted a location to sit among our peers, and there is no better location or stronger statement than opening on Bond Street.”


Described as a “hub for men with taste who value the blend of traditional craftsmanship with a contemporary feel,” the two-storey boutique blends classic and contemporary design detailing, elevating the Georgian architecture that is part of Hackett’s heritage with mid-century modern soft furniture and contemporary British design wallpapers and artwork by Hormazd Narielwalla.


There are also vintage and unique décor pieces inspired by founder Jeremy Hackett’s “passion for exploration, discovery and antiques”.


Hackett London New Bond Street store Credits: Hackett London



The design also features familiar elements from Hackett’s 14 Savile Row townhouse, including the striking emerald-green panelled walls of its member's room, which now adorns the first-floor space with a large window overlooking Bond Street.


Slater said: “We wanted to translate the Savile Row townhouse on a smaller scale, highlighting our heritage and charm in a welcoming way to really showcase the Savile Row collection, and make it an experience for new and returning customers.”


Hackett London driving brand aspiration with new Bond Street store dedicated to No.14 Savile Row Collection




The store also offers personal tailoring, made-to-measure and bespoke services, as well as in-house barber and grooming services on the first floor.


Colarossi added: “Bond Street has been designed to slow the retail experience down. We want to offer the consumer comfort and show him he’s in good hands. He can peruse and try on the collection and have a coffee or a shave."


The Bond Street location will also be used to fulfil e-commerce orders for the No.14 Savile Row collection "for better customer service," said Slater.


Hackett London New Bond Street store Credits: Hackett London



The Hackett Savile Row ready-to-wear collection is the premium line within the Hackett clothing range, sitting alongside Hackett London, Hackett Sport, and its bespoke services on Savile Row. The collection, designed by Colarossi, embodies the brand's tailoring roots while developing into a full lifestyle offering, featuring shirts, suits and chinos, as well as outerwear, blazers, polos and knitwear.


“The goal is to offer a collection that’s modern and relevant,” adds Colarossi. “To create a lifestyle line where we can dress from a black-tie event to the weekend, interpreting what men want to wear now.”


This is translated into an autumn/winter 2023 collection filled with seasonal colours of ecrus, browns and greens that are paired back with rich navy and warm greys. These colours are seen across coats, suits and jackets, in wools, silks and cashmere, with layering items in cotton, silk blends, and merino. The collection also includes a capsule of hybrid outerwear and a range of partywear for the upcoming holiday season.


“Hackett London will always be the majority of our sales, but with the Savile Row line we are developing our brand positioning, while offering that element of aspiration and feeding the appetite we see from consumers looking for traditional yet contemporary options,” added Colarossi.


Hackett London New Bond Street store Credits: Hackett London


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Gucci amplifies battle against US counterfeiters

Gucci luggage campaign with Jungjae Lee Credits: Gucci, photo by Hanna Moon



Gucci is escalating its efforts to combat counterfeiting, initiating legal action against three U.S. retailers: Sam's Club, Century 21, and Lord & Taylor.


The lawsuits, filed by Gucci's American division in federal court in Manhattan, allege these retailers' involvement in the illicit sale of counterfeit Gucci products. The luxury brand underscores its dedication to safeguarding customers from counterfeit sales and emphasizes a comprehensive investigation preceding the legal proceedings.


In the lawsuit against Lord & Taylor, Gucci highlights its significant advertising investment in promoting the brand in the U.S., underscoring the market's importance. Gucci is pursuing injunctions and financial compensation, citing trademark infringement and unfair competition by the retailers. The legal action also calls for the surrender and potential destruction of counterfeit items.


Gucci's investigations involved purchases from the retailers' websites, revealing the inauthentic nature of the products. While Lord & Taylor remains silent on the matter, Sam's Club acknowledges removing the identified products and plans to address the complaint in court. Century 21 has chosen not to provide a statement.


Gucci's ongoing battle against counterfeiting reflects the broader challenge faced by luxury brands dealing with unauthorized reproductions through various distribution channels. Gucci, a frequent target of counterfeiting, has previously secured legal protection for its iconic 'green-red-green ribbon' and engaged in collaborations, such as the one with Facebook in 2021, to protect its intellectual property.


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Former Google exec joins Coty as chief digital officer

Coty steps into the metaverse with Coty Campus. Credits: Coty.



Pierric Duithot, a former executive of Google and director at Meta, has been named as the newest chief digital officer for beauty and cosmetics giant Coty.


The conglomerate, which owns the likes of Kylie Cosmetics and Rimmel, announced the appointment via its official LinkedIn page, where it said Duthoit would be taking up the role from December 1.


It continued: “Pierric’s previous experience of growing digital and FMCG [fast-moving consumer goods] businesses at an international scale strongly complements Coty’s strategic digital priorities.”


Duthoit joins Coty from social media firm Meta, where he most recently served as business director France over the course of one year.


Prior to Meta, he further held executive positions at Google, including industry director of a number of divisions for the Middle East, North Africa.


Duthoit also boasts experience within the fashion industry, namely at Patagonia, where he served as consultant for Russia for two years, and at Russian fashion platform Woman Journal, where he was CEO for nearly five years.


His appointment at Coty comes at a time when the beauty group, which has only recently secured a second stock exchange listing in Paris, has been upping its efforts in the realm of the digital world.


Among its initiatives, the company has worked with tech giants like Perfect Corp to introduce virtual try-on features for its brands, and has launched its own virtual world which employees are encouraged to utilise in order to gain a wider understanding of the metaverse as a whole.

Read more:



* How beauty retail is leading the way in tech innovation


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Roots appoints new chief marketing officer

Credits: Roots Facebook



Canadian lifestyle brand Roots Corporation has announced the appointment of Leslie Golts as its new chief marketing officer.


She ultimately brings to the table over 15 years of experience, Roots said in a release, particularly surrounding marketing and communications leadership.


Golts joins the company from Unilever Canada’s Beauty and Wellness Business Unit, where she served as general manager and head of marketing.


At the cosmetics giant, Golts was credited with helping to drive profitable growth and “ensuring brand success across diverse categories”.


Prior to this, she also held a series of managerial positions at L’Oréal Canada, and had played a “key role” in the development of global campaigns for the Dove brand.


Speaking on the appointment, Meghan Roach, president and chief executive officer at Roots, said: "Leslie brings a wealth of experience and proven success in building iconic brands to Roots.


"She is a talented leader that will play a critical role in advancing the company's marketing initiatives and reinforcing its position in the market. With her deep life-long love for Roots, she is an excellent cultural fit, and we are pleased to welcome her to the team."


Golts further commented on the new role, adding: "I am thrilled to be part of the Roots Corporation family and excited about the opportunities to elevate the brand to new heights.


"Roots has a rich history, and I look forward to collaborating with the team to create compelling marketing strategies that resonate with our diverse audience."


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Stella McCartney appoints Amandine Ohayon as CEO

Kendall Jenner in Stella McCartney Herbst 2023 Credits: Harley Weir



A new chief executive officer has been named at British luxury brand Stella McCartney, with Amandine Ohayon understood to be taking up the helm position from December 1.


From her base in London, Ohayon will succeed Gabriele Maggio, who had initially joined the company in 2019 as both president and CEO, and is expected to leave to pursue other opportunities, according to WWD, which first reported the news.


Ohayon most recently served as CEO of Spanish bridal brand Pronovias for over five years, prior to which she held a number of leadership roles at beauty giant L’Oréal.


Here she worked with the likes of YSL, Armani Beauty, Giorgio Armani Beauty and Lancome, primarily as general manager, but also as marketing director or development product manager across the range of brands.


Former Pronovias CEO joins McCartney




On her LinkedIn, Ohayon says she holds over 25 years of luxury expertise and has a “proven international track record of growth and business transformations in beauty and fashion”.


Stella McCartney confirmed Ohayon’s appointment in a statement to WWD, stating that “her people-first leadership and brand-building skills combined with her [ability to execute] have been pivotal in the success of brands”.


The company added that it had tasked its new executive with elevating the house and “accelerating its development based on its longstanding commitment to sustainable fashion”.


In addition to this, designer Stella McCartney noted in her own comment that Ohayon’s “leadership and wealth of experience across businesses and geographies will be strong assets to build a brilliant future for the company. Her passion for great fashion and ethical values makes her a great partner in our quest to champion a sustainable way to business success.”


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Depop partners with Sook for retail pop-ups

Depop pop-up store. Credits: Depop.



Resale platform Depop is taking to the physical realm via a new partnership with Sook that will see it host a number of pop-ups across the UK.


Over the course of six months, Depop will operate pop-up stores throughout London, Liverpool and Edinburgh, where a selection of unique sellers that operate through its site will be housed.


To begin, four pop-ups will be opened in London during November and December, in spaces where events will take place alongside the exhibition of 11 Depop sellers.


While Kathandrosa will be present at the South Molton Street location, Celiapops, Alicefletchdf and Reloadedldn will be offering curated collections on Oxford Street for two days in December.


Pop-ups will continue into the month, with additional sellers brought to Oxford Street at later dates. More pop-ups are scheduled to open in 2024.


In a release, Steve Dool, director of brand and marketing at Depop, said: “We’re excited to be working with Sook again to give people the opportunity to shop from their favourite Depop sellers in the real world.


“By partnering with Sook, we hope we can reach and inspire more people to look to circular fashion options that are kinder to the planet, rather than buying new.”


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Euromonitor: 6 Consumer trends for 2024

Credits: Pexels



As high streets slowly become Christmas-proof through ornate illuminations and festive store windows, it is clear the end of 2023 is approaching and another new year is upon us. Time to look ahead, then. These are the biggest consumer trends in 2024, according to market research firm Euromonitor International.


AI-enabled chatbots and digital assistants




It probably won't surprise you that artificial intelligence (AI) is in the list of consumer trends. After its launch, ChatGPT reached 100 million users within two months, becoming one of the fastest-growing applications in history. According to Euromonitor, ChatGPT has an accessible nature, allowing consumers with little technical knowledge to quickly get to grips with it.


Not only consumers are experimenting with the technology, companies are also getting to grips with it. For example, they are experimenting with implementing AI in chatbots and voice assistants. This is also referred to as the 'Ask AI trend' and, according to Euromonitor, can provide competitive advantage, provided the tools are used effectively. For instance, it can accelerate go-to-market strategies, content creation and ideas, as well as aggregate user data to drive new product development. In addition, it can build user experiences by, for example, realising virtual assistants that answer shoppers' individual questions.


And it appears that consumers are indeed waiting for this. Over 40 percent of consumers would like to receive personalised recommendations via a voice assistant, the report found. Less than a fifth feel the same about using bots to answer complex customer service questions. Sustainable trainer brand Wear, for example, is already experimenting with a digital assistant. The ‘trainer cleaning chatbot’ provides personalised advice based on photos for maintaining and cleaning trainers.
Wear launches a trainer cleaning chatbot. Credits:
Wear


In search of happiness




The events of recent years have not left consumers cold. The corona crisis was quickly exchanged for economic uncertainties, political unrest, climate disasters and wars.The consumer has had enough and went in search of happiness. And happiness is in the little things, isn't it?


According to Euromonitor, a small (unexpected) surprise or small acts can already satisfy this consumer demand. In addition, consumers look for products that generate satisfaction. The dopamine dressing fashion trend is an example of this.


What should you, as a company, do with this trend? Bring your communication with consumers under the microscope. For example, put a light-hearted spin on order confirmation e-mails. In addition, emotional marketing will play a big role in this trend. "Brands should focus on linking their products to this cultural desire for optimism," wrote Euromonitor. This will make customers associate a positive feeling with your brand. Interactive brand experiences also play a role in the desire for escapism. Should you organise events, make sure you combine technology, brand storytelling and entertainment. "This will both captivate and entertain your audience."


Done with greenwashing




In a world where the climate crisis is gaining a bigger stage, consumers are trying to contribute. Yet, that's not so easy. They find themselves in a labyrinth of sustainable options, which often come with a catch. Is it all as sustainable as it seems? Something that is certain is that consumers are done with greenwashing.


Consumers experiencing green fatigue are no longer accepting of empty promises or fake stories from brands and companies. Environmental concerns remain at the top of the agenda for now, and sustainable choices will continue to be made. But, there is also a group that feels discouraged and will therefore try less.


You can probably guess, but full transparency is essential in this consumer trend, according to the report. Share concrete evidence of responsible business practices and validate progress, is the message here. "At the same time, demonstrate sustainable impact with specific data. For example, if your product is made from recyclable materials, put on the packaging how much waste was saved during production." This way, consumers know right away how their purchase decision or behaviour makes a difference. Besides transparency, affordability is also a sticking point. Consumers often find sustainable products too expensive. Euromonitor therefore thinks that the prices of sustainable products should be made more attractive.


Credits: AI generated images created by FashionUnited.



Political expressions? Rather not, stay authentic to the brand ethos




Consumers value brands that match their values. After all, purchases reflect the causes they care about or how they want to look. Social responsibility, political commitment or sustainability initiatives can therefore have a positive impact on consumers and motivate spending. But, with political unrest in a lot of countries, this is not always the case.


Brands that choose to speak out about political concerns sometimes cut themselves in half. For instance, consumers sometimes avoid brands that promote a partisan agenda. Moreover, companies that push marketing campaigns around controversial issues are sometimes scolded or avoided. This can damage brand reputation.


Yet, companies that get it right can also strengthen their customer loyalty. So how do you tackle this? Support issues that are important to your customer and that fit the brand identity. Delve into the minds of your target audience by approaching focus groups and seeking their views. Besides focus groups, social listening tools also provide insight into your target group's views. While expressing political views in a nuanced way, it is important to maintain brand authenticity.


This consumer trend brings forth a number of difficulties. Euromonitor therefore argued that you cannot please everyone. "Brands that want to make their voices heard must accept both the potential risks and rewards associated with tackling a controversial issue."


Value hackers




Another topic we cannot avoid is inflation. Rising costs are causing consumers to rearrange their spending. They choose cheaper options. The saving behaviour is something that consumers continue to exhibit, even as inflation eases, Euromonitor stated. Indeed, they seem to be looking for ways to save further and are emerging as 'value hackers'.


As a company or brand, you can capitalise on this by offering bundle and save offers, for example. You enable shoppers to buy multiple products at a discount. In addition, subscription and savings plans work in the same way, according to Euromonitor. In addition to capitalising on the price of a product, you can also cater to consumers with loyalty programmes.


It is also important that consumers understand your value proposition. You guessed it: communication is key. "Promote the right information that will influence their decisions. If buyers do not understand your value position, they will switch to a competitor or look for alternatives," said Euromonitor. Sharing tips and tricks to save money is also appreciated by consumers.


Credits: Pexels



Mental and spiritual health




Consumers want to look good and feel good. This has been true for years, but the trend in how they do so is shifting. Where consumers previously opted for a quick fix, they are now choosing to take their time.


Before, consumers preferred easy, effective solutions that adapt their lifestyles and take little time and effort as well as no major commitments. Now they are saying goodbye to the quick fix and taking a realistic approach. Consumers no longer expect radical changes, but they do want visible improvement, the report said.


In shopping behaviour, this translates into those opting for user-friendly or more workable solutions. Here, proven effectiveness is a key component. You need to make sure you can prove that your product works by, for example, before-and-after photos. In addition, data is also essential. For instance, real-monitoring and smart tools help keep track of progress.


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Kunsthalle München to explore Viktor&Rolf’s fashion statements

Ellen von Unwerth - Ana and Tanya, Town & Country, 2023, Viktor&Rolf Late Stage Capitalism Waltz Haute Couture, S/S 2023 Credits: Courtesy of Kunsthalle München by Ellen von Unwerth



Kunsthalle München museum in Munich, Germany, is to host a fashion exhibition dedicated to Dutch fashion duo Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren featuring more than 100 of their most daring creations.


‘Viktor&Rolf: Fashion Statements’ opens in February 2024 and will mark the first major retrospective on Viktor&Rolf in Germany. The exhibition, developed by the Kunsthalle München in collaboration with the Canadian curator Thierry Maxime Loriot, will delve into duo’s “passions, obsessions and singular vision”.


On display will be 100 of Viktor&Rolf’s designs, many of which will be exhibited for the first time, from the designers’ own archive and private collections. The avant-garde looks will be showcased alongside a selection of their dolls, inspired by antique porcelain dolls, dressed in the designers’ most iconic creations, which are handmade season after season.


The exhibition will also feature numerous videos, sketches, and works by distinguished visual artists, including Andreas Gursky, Inez&Vinoodh, and Ellen von Unwerth, as well as specially commissioned animated projections by internationally acclaimed visual effect studio Rodeo FX, famous for their work on series like Stranger Things, Game of Thrones, and Lord of the Rings.


Viktor&Rolf retrospective to open in Germany in February 2024




Commenting on the upcoming exhibition of their work, Viktor&Rolf said in a statement: “We are thrilled to show a selection of more than 30 years of our work at the Kunsthalle München. We have always felt strongly about the way museum shows complement our seasonal catwalk presentations.


"Exhibitions are more democratic than the runway: they allow more visitors, and they last longer. They can show that certain themes recur over the years and put a spotlight onto the sublime craftmanship that goes into the creation of our pieces.”


Viktor&Rolf,Spring Summer 2023 Haute Couture Credits: Launchmetrics Spotlight



The exhibit will be divided into nine chapters, each referring to specific themes “cherished” by the designers – Upside/Down, Fashion Artists, Russian Dolls, Fashion Statements, The Dolls, Zen Garden, Performing Fashion, Viktor&Rolf on Stage, and Upcycling Couture.


Highlights will include how the duo worked with vintage fabrics used by Cristobal Balenciaga and Yves Saint Laurent, and later on, how they referenced not only their own former collections but also their signature motifs, such as ruffles and embroideries and voluminous silhouettes, to create highly unorthodox haute couture as a ‘new beginning’ in patchworks, braids or woven techniques.


Pieces from their ‘Fashion Statements’ collection from spring/summer 2019, which featured short slogans typically used in social media on tulle dresses will be showcased alongside the duo’s spring 2023 ‘Late Stage Capitalism’ collection, and its autumn/winter 1999 ‘Russian Doll’ collection.


Viktor & Rolf, haute couture, SS23. Credits: Launchmetrics Spotlight



Roger Diederen, director of the Kunsthalle, said: “With ‘Viktor&Rolf. Fashion Statements,’ the Kunsthalle München is organising the next major haute couture exhibition. I am very excited to be able to present this designer duo from Amsterdam in Munich and thus realise their first retrospective in the German-speaking world.


“Viktor&Rolf's innovative creations, which have been inspiring not only the fashion world but also the art scene for 30 years now, will be shown in an unexpected scenography at the Kunsthalle.”


Accompanying the exhibition will be an illustrated publication with introductory essays and an interview with Viktor&Rolf which will provide an in-depth look at the fashion artists’ contradictory identity that pushes the boundaries between art and fashion, often contrasting romance and power, exuberance and control, classicism and rebellion.


‘Viktor&Rolf: Fashion Statements’ will run from February 23 to October 6, 2024, at Kunsthalle München museum in Munich, Germany.


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New leather goods school to open in Haute-Loire, France

Couture work, illustrative image. Credits: Ярослав Гринько, Unsplash.



Brives-Charensac, a town in the south-central Haute-Loire region in France, is to be the site of a school of excellence in leather goods. According to the local media outlet L'Éveil de la Haute-Loire, in October elected representatives approved a feasibility study for the future school to be located in the Le Puy-en-Velay area.


According to Michel Joubert, chairman of the greater Le Puy-en-Velay urban community and mayor of the Chaspuzac municipality, the project was long overdue. In an interview filmed and broadcast by the local news website La Commère 43, the mayor said that the French leather industry "lacks skilled, trained workers, even though it's a booming sector that can provide recruitment and therefore jobs for the future. It interests us because it's an opportunity for local employment."


The organisations involved in the project include the French leather goods federation (Fédération française de la maroquinerie) and the leather technical centre (Centre technique du cuir). The project is jointly funded by the Haute-Loire region, the Le Puy urban area and a group of companies.


The School of Excellence in Leather Goods will be built in a historic building, namely the cloister of the Chartreuse. The new French educational facility and accommodation aims to train between 80 and 120 people a year.


This article was originally published on FashionUnited.FR. Translation and edit from French into English: Veerle Versteeg.


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Phoebe Philo announces collection's second drop

An embroidered coat, made to order Credits: Phoebe Philo website



British designer Phoebe Philo, who last month debuted the initial offerings from her new namesake fashion house, has confirmed the second drop of her inaugural A1 edit. New styles will be available on the brand’s website on 28 November, as confirmed by a newsletter, although specifics of the second release remain undisclosed. A later third delivery is also expected.


Philo has chosen to diverge from the conventional fashion show and delivery calendar, opting for a personalised schedule for the release of her collections, said WWD. This approach aligns with her vision of creating designs that transcend seasonal constraints and contribute to an ongoing body of work.


Philo’s launch was a near immediate sell-out and was widely regarded as one of the most eagerly awaited womenswear releases of 2023. The collection spans accessory categories such as handbags, sunglasses and jewellery, in addition to ready-to-wear and shoes. Special items, such as a hand-combed viscose coat, are made to order with prices provided on application. The collection’s sell-out rates reflect the brand’s popularity and the cachet Ms Philo holds not just as an industry leader but also to customers, who value her unique aesthetic.


Despite not having a store or wholesale network, the lack of middlemen has not impacted the collection’s high prices, which sit in the same scope as other luxury brands. Handbags, for example, retail between 3,500 and 8,500 dollars. This may mean the company may wholesale to select retailers in the future, when investors need to see growth.


The buzz surrounding the launch has been steadily growing since Philo announced her return to the fashion scene in July 2021, unveiling plans for a new independent house with LVMH as a minority investor. Recognized as one of the most esteemed and commercially successful designers of her generation, the brand has thus far proven the direct to consumer business model can still bring sell-out success.


Phoebe Philo announces brand's second drop Credits: Phoebe Philo newsletter


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Lush continues 'Big Tech Rebellion' with Black Friday initiative

Lush ‘The Cloud’ bath bomb Credits: Lush



Beauty


British beauty brand Lush is using Black Friday to raise money for the decentralised movement ‘People vs Big Tech’ in a continuation of its ‘Big Tech Rebellion’ campaign.


In a statement, Lush said that it was raising money with a new limited-edition bath bomb to support its work to "rein in the handful of Big Tech companies that have monopolised the Internet with intrusive surveillance, predatory addictive-algorithms, harmful content and echo chambers".


‘The Cloud’ bath bomb will launch on Black Friday, November 24, across its e-commerce sites in the UK, US, Canada, France, Germany, Hungary, Spain, Italy, Japan, Australia and New Zealand. Priced at 6.50 pounds, 100 percent of the sales price (minus the VAT) will be donated to People vs Big Tech.


Annabelle Baker, global brand director at Lush, said in a statement: “Black Friday is generally a time when the Big Tech companies rake in huge profits, but at what cost?


“It’s important that we campaign at this critical time of year to fund movements like People vs Big Tech who are providing a pathway to a future without surveillance advertising or predatory algorithms and putting the control back into the hands of the people.”


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Ba&sh teams up with Nativa to develop regenerative farming

Ba&sh, regenerative farming Credits: Ba&sh



French contemporary brand Ba&sh is partnering with Nativa on a new project to help develop and finance regenerative farming practices for farms in Uruguay.


As part of the agreement, Ba&sh will incorporate regenerative wool from these farms into its future knitwear collections and as part of its increased efforts to protect biodiversity and reduce its carbon footprint, it has also set a goal of using 30 percent of regenerative or transitioning wool into its collections by the end of 2025.


The move will require a “new creative process that starts with the yarn,” and a reimagining of creative and logistical processes, such as working with its supply chain to align with the farming calendar. For instance, wool obtained at the end of summer 2023 will be used in the 2024 winter collections.


Pierre-Arnaud Grenade, chief executive of Ba&sh, said in a statement: “By partnering with the Nativa Regenerative Agriculture Programme, we hope to foster a more demanding and innovative relationship between the fashion industry and its agricultural partners.


“We are aware of the need to make further progress in certain areas to make fashion more environmentally friendly and respectful of life on our planet. Our approach to today’s burning issues involves taking a holistic view, and regenerative agriculture meets all these criteria.”


Ba&sh added that six out of nine planetary limits “have been breached, particularly relating to the change of use of soil,” and working with Nativa will support soil regeneration, protection of biodiversity, elimination of synthetic inputs, improving social equity and the economic situation of farmers as well as animal welfare.


The Nativa Regenerative Agriculture Programme requirements are built on a triple-impact system, based on scientific research, and includes introducing perennial grasses into natural pastureland to produce higher quality food for sheep and provide the local ecosystem with living roots, as well as reintroducing native tree species to provide shade for sheep and shelter for other wildlife, and to promote biodiversity. It also requires restoration of the local ecosystem and biodiversity by using streams, natural riverbanks and drinking troughs.


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American Eagle Outfitters Q3 sales up 5 percent

Credits: Image: American Eagle Outfitters



Third quarter revenue at American Eagle Outfitters (AEO) of 1.3 billion dollars was up 5 percent with store revenue up 3 percent and digital revenue increasing 10 percent.


The company said in a release that Aerie brand revenue of 393 million dollars rose 12 percent with comparable sales up 12 percent and American Eagle revenue of 857 million dollars rose 2 percent with comparable sales increase of 2 percent.


“I am pleased with our third quarter results which demonstrated the strength of our brands and reflected continued progress on our growth and profit improvement initiatives,” commented Jay Schottenstein, AEO’s executive chairman and CEO.


Gross profit for the quarter of 544 million dollars increased approximately 13 percent and reflected a gross margin rate of 41.8 percent, up 310 basis points. Operating income of 125 million dollars reflected a 9.6 percent margin and diluted earnings per share of 49 cents increased 17 percent.


For Fiscal 2023, the company added that management expects revenue to be up mid-single digits to last year, compared to prior guidance for revenue up low single digits. Operating income is expected to be in the range of 340 dollars to 350 million dollars, at the high end of prior guidance of 325 dollars to 350 million dollars.


For the fourth quarter, management’s outlook reflects revenue up high-single digits and operating income in the range of 105 to 115 million dollars.


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Abercrombie & Fitch raises outlook on strong Q3

Credits: Image: Abercrombie & Fitch



Abercrombie & Fitch third quarter net sales of 1.1 billion dollars, were up 20 percent on a reported basis and up 19 percent on a constant currency basis. Total company comparable sales for the quarter increased 16 percent.


The growth was led by Abercrombie brands with sales increase of 30 percent and Hollister brands, which delivered 11 percent increase.


Commenting on the third quarter trading, Fran Horowitz, the company’s chief executive officer, said in a statement: “Our strong third quarter results, with net sales and operating margin well-exceeding our expectations, speak to the power of our playbook working globally across our brand portfolio. We are increasing our full year outlook for both net sales growth and operating margin.”


The company’s gross profit rate of 64.9 percent, rose approximately 570 basis points as compared to last year, operating income increased to 138 million dollars on a reported basis and net income per diluted share was 1.83 dollars on a reported basis compared to net loss of 4 cents per share and 1 cent on a reported and adjusted non-GAAP basis, respectively.


For fiscal 2023, the company now expects net sales growth of 12 percent to 14 percent, an increase to the previous outlook of growth of around 10 percent. Operating margin is expected to be around 10 percent, an improvement from the previous outlook of in the range of 8 percent to 9 percent.


For the fourth quarter, the company expects net sales growth to be in the low double-digits and operating margin to be in the range of 12 percent to 14 percent compared to an adjusted operating margin of 7.7 percent in the fourth quarter of 2022.


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How Formula 1 racing has inspired both athleticwear and designer collections

Formula 1 inspiration/ main photo Credits: Formula 1
inspiration/Launchmetrics Spotlight
A-list celebrities including Rihanna, A$AP Rocky, Lupita Nyong'o and
Heidi Klum came out to watch the inaugural edition of the Las Vegas
Grand Prix, held November 16-18 2023, confirming the booming interest
in Formula 1 racing in The U.S. Consequently, opportunities for
licensing and partnerships with both athletic and apparel brands have
grown exponentially.
As reported last month by FashionUnited.com, Puma named A$AP Rocky as creative director
for its Puma x Formula 1 partnership. Puma said its focus will be on
the intersection of motorsport and streetwear.


Tracing the trend




A bit like soccer, F1 was a sport that lagged behind in interest with
the American public compared to the rest of the world. That all
changed in 2019 with the debut of the Netflix series, ‘Formula 1:
Drive to Survive.’ The series introduced millions of Americans not
only to the excitement of futuristic-looking cars zooming around race
tracks at speeds of over 200 miles, but also to the glamorous stars of
the sport like Mercedes team member, Britain’s Sir Lewis Hamilton. Not
only is Hamilton considered to be the greatest F1 driver of all time,
he’s a closely watched fashion icon both on and off the tracks, endorsing many products
Interestingly, even though F1 is majorly dominated by men, it has
piqued the interest of both male and female designers and consumers.



Ferrari collection

Ferrari ss23/ look 12 Credits: Ferrari
ss23/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Formula 1 is a very exclusive sport with just ten teams, including the
racing division of Ferrari named Scuderia Ferrari.
Sensing a growing market within the fashion world, the brand hired
fashion designer Rocco Iannone and started producing both men’s and
women’s collections inspired by the racing team’s uniforms as worn by
star drivers, Charles Leclerc and Carlos Sainz.

Ferrari ss23/ look 30 Credits: Ferrari
ss23/Launchmetrics Spotlight
Christian Dior




At Christian Dior, both the women’s designer, Maria Grazia Chiuri and
the men’s, Kim Jones have gained inspiration from Formula 1.
For fw22 Chiuri showed jackets and gloves associated with the sport.

Dior fw22/ look 16 Credits: Dior fw22/Launchmetrics
Spotlight Credits: Dior fw22/Launchmetrics Spotlight


In 2022 Jones collaborated with the creators of the automotive game.
Gran Turismo 7. They first created a digital one-piece racing suit,
helmet, gloves, and rally-inspired ‘Diorizon’ boots. The outfit was
then brought to life by the Dior ateliers.






Polish model Sabina Jakubowicz attended the ss24 Dior show wearing a
version of the look.

Sabina Jakubowicz in Dior Credits: Sabina Jakubowicz
in Dior/Launchmetrics Spotlight
Post-Pandemic motorsport fashion




Several collections, both men and women’s, have referenced the sport.


Marni ss22, designer, Francesco Risso

Marni ss22/ look 34 Credits: Marni
ss22/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 34: a leather moto jacket in red, blue, black and white color
blocks over blue and white shorts and a leg warmer, sporty socks and
sneakers.


David Koma fw23

David Koma fw 23/ look 10 Credits: David Koma fw
23/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 10: a collarless moto jacket in black, white and red with
Marlboro logos over a white shirt and black tie; a color-blocked
shearling skirt in red and black and mismatched red and black thigh
high boots and gloves.


Casablanca ss24: designer, Charaf Tajer

Casablanca ss24/ look 7 Credits: Casablanca
ss24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 7: a crocodile print pressed leather moto jacket in color blocks
of yellow, orange, black and white with the brand’s logo. The jacket
was shown over a long black dress accessorized with colorful jewelry
and black point toe sling-backs. The model carried a racing helmet.



Motorsport street style


Alexandra Guerin in Lamarque

Alexandra Guerin in Lamarque Credits: Alexandra
Guerin in Lamarque/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Childrenswear designer Alexandra Guerin was seen at the AZ Factory
ss24 show wearing a black and red leather moto jacket and matching
mini skirt, both from Lamarque by Adelina Hodzic.


Indira Scott in Namilia by Nan Li and Emilia Pfohl

Indira Scott in Namilia Credits: Indira Scott in
Namilia/Launchmetrics Spotlight


American model Indiri Scott was seen during Milan fashion Week fw23
wearing a vegan leather motocross jacket in black, white and blue by
Namilia x Need For Speed worn with turbo moto thigh-high boots.




Look for Formula 1 and motorsports to continue to influence fashion during 2024.


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BFC announces hosts for British Fashion Awards

British Fashion Awards Credits: BFC



Maya Jama and Kojey Radical are set to host The Fashion Awards 2023 (TFA), presented by Pandora, at London's Royal Albert Hall on December 4.


Maya Jama, known for her on-screen and entrepreneurial success, and Kojey Radical, a British musician at the forefront of mainstreaming underground Black music, bring their distinctive styles to the hosting duties. The event will also feature Law Roach hosting the Red Carpet LIVE served by smartwater, engaging in live conversations with fashion, music, and entertainment pioneers.


The Fashion Awards Red Carpet LIVE will be accessible on BFC social channels, starting at 6:30 pm GMT on December 4. The event serves as a fundraiser for the BFC Foundation, with support from partners such as Don Julio, Getty Images, Moët & Chandon, Royal Salute, smartwater, and The Peninsula London.


Caroline Rush, Chief Executive, British Fashion Council, said in a statement: “We are thrilled to announce the brilliant Maya Jama and Kojey Radical as hosts for The Fashion Awards 2023 presented by Pandora as we focus this year on celebrating British creativity and leadership. The two are pioneers in their respective industries and represent fashion's position at the intersection of culture. I look forward to seeing their dynamic energy on stage as we celebrate the many achievements of the fashion industry this year.”


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Nanushka launches UK garment repair service in partnership with SOJO

Nanushka launches UK in-store garment mending service Credits: Nanushka x SOJO



Nanushka has joined forces with London-based fashion-tech platform SOJO to provide customers with product repair services, aiming to extend the lifecycle of the brand’s garments.


The Budapest-based fashion company and platform have curated a limited capsule collection that showcases creative mending practices. The collection features reimagined Nanushka garments adorned with hand-embroidered kopjafa symbols, woven fringing, and patchwork panelling. The launch is accompanied by a creative campaign, including a short film highlighting the craftsmanship of SOJO's expert tailors.


Sandra Sandor, Founder and Creative Director of Nanushka, expressed her excitement about the collaboration with SOJO, emphasizing the convenience it brings to conscious customers seeking to prolong the lifespan of their garments. The partnership introduces a door-to-door repair and creative mending service for Nanushka's UK customers.


The brand’s London flagship store at 30 Bruton Street allows shoppers to explore the collaboration and drop off their own Nanushka garments for repairs or creative mending.


Rise of the circular economy




The popularity of in-store garment mending services is on the rise, reflecting a growing trend towards sustainability and conscious consumerism. Retailers are recognizing the shift in consumer priorities, with many individuals seeking to extend the lifespan of their clothing rather than succumbing to the throwaway culture that has long prevailed.


In response to this demand, an increasing number of fashion brands like Nanushka are incorporating in-store garment mending services as part of their offerings. The benefits of in-store garment mending services are multifaceted, contributing to the reduction of textile waste by repairing and repurposing items that might otherwise end up in landfills. This aligns with the broader movement towards circular fashion, emphasizing the importance of keeping clothing in use for as long as possible.


These services also empower consumers to make more conscious choices by fostering a sense of responsibility for the longevity of their wardrobe. By investing in repairs and alterations, individuals can develop a more sustainable relationship with their clothing, moving away from the disposable mindset perpetuated by fast fashion.


Moreover, in-store garment mending services enhance the overall customer experience, providing a personalised and value-added service that goes beyond the traditional transactional nature of retail.


Nanushka garment repair service UK Credits: Nanushka x SOJO


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Seasalt eyes US expansion, plans four store openings

Jason McNary, Seasalt's consulting director, North America Credits: Seasalt.



British brand Seasalt has set its sights on growing in the US market, as it reveals plans to open four new stores in the country during 2024.


The first store to open will be located in the New England area, within the northeast region where the brand’s focus currently is, with a dedicated US website to also launch in the summer.


From there, up to 20 stores are planned to open over the next three years, building on Seasalt’s already established presence in the US, which has primarily been operated through an online partnership with department store chain, Belk.


In a release, Paul Hayes, chief executive officer of Seasalt, said: “Our US market entry strategy has been in development for some time now and we have established a strong foundation in the country through our partnership with Belk as a springboard to accelerate our expansion.”


Consulting director for North America appointed to help with growth




The announcement comes as Seasalt further announced the appointment of Jason McNary as its consulting director, North America, who has been tasked with leading the expansion.


McNary was most recently chief executive officer of Spanish jewellery brand Unode50, and had previously served as president of French fashion brand Agnés B, prior to which he had also held positions at the likes of BCBG Max Azria, Abercombie and Fitch and Hoss Inropia.


To help in accelerating its international expansion, Seasalt said it has further partnered with Rarely Heard Voices to help identify and establish the right partnerships to drive growth in North America and Europe.


While the US expansion goes ahead, the company noted that the UK would remain a primary focus, with store openings expected to continue on the same trajectory through the next year, following the launch of several new stores across the UK, Ireland and and New Zealand over the last 12 months.


On the strategy, McNary said: “Seasalt is a company that I have long admired for its many strengths: it has a fantastic high-quality product and is a company with strong sustainability credentials, commitment to inclusion and diversity and world-class customer service.


“I look forward to working with Paul and the wider team to bring the Seasalt brand to a new audience and lead the US plans in this next phase of development.”


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Walmart Q3 revenues increase by 5.2 percent

Credits: Image: Walmart



Consolidated revenue of 160.8 billion dollars at Walmart, were up 5.2 percent or 4.3 percent in constant currency.


For fiscal 2024, the company expects consolidated sales to Increase approximately 5 percent to 5.5 percent, operating income to increase approximately 7 percent to 7.5 percent, and adjusted EPS in the range of 6.40 dollars to 6.48 dollars.


“We had strong revenue growth across segments for the quarter, and we’re excited to get an early start to the holiday season. Looking ahead, our inventory is in good shape, the teams are focused, and our associates are ready to serve our customers and members whenever and however they want to be served,” said Doug McMillon, president and CEO, Walmart.


Walmart U.S. sales of 109.4 billion dollars rose 4.4 percent, while the company delivered 24 percent growth in ecommerce, led by strength in pickup & delivery. Walmart Connect advertising sales grew 26 percent. The company added that the sales strength was led by grocery and health & wellness, while general merchandise sales declined modestly. Gross profit rate increased 5 bps for the quarter under review.


Walmart International sales of 28 billion dollars increased 10.8 percent or 5.4 percent in constant currency but ecommerce sales declined 3 percent, while advertising grew 4 percent. Gross margin rate increased 151 bps and operating income in constant currency improved 10.7 percent with strength across markets.


The company’s consolidated gross margin rate rose 32bps, while on an adjusted basis, gross margin improved 37bps.


Walmart said consolidated operating income was up 3.5 billion dollars or 130.1 percent, and adjusted operating income increased 3 percent. Adjusted EPS for the quarter reached 1.53 dollars.


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The Children’s Place posts drop in Q3 sales and earnings

Credits: Gymboree/The Children’s Place



The Children’s Place reported third quarter net sales decreased 28.9 million dollars or 5.7 percent to 480.2 million dollars. The company’s comparable retail sales decreased 7.3 percent for the quarter.


The company attributed the decrease in net sales to the impact of the continued slowdown in consumer demand resulting from the unprecedented inflation impacting the customer and from other domestic and geo-political concerns weighing on consumer confidence, an increase in promotional activity across the sector, and the impact of permanent store closures.


Commenting on the trading performance, Jane Elfers, the company’s president and CEO said, ““While our core customer remains under significant pressure, we were pleased with our ability to drive top-line above our expectations throughout the third quarter. November is off to a strong start with consolidated retail sales running up low single digits quarter to date versus last year, driven by the continued strength of our digital business.”


Review of The Children’s Place Q3 results




The company added that gross profit and adjusted gross profit for the quarter decreased by 14.8 million dollars to 162.1 million dollars and adjusted gross margin decreased 110 basis points to 33.7 percent of net sales.


Operating income was 45 million dollars, while adjusted operating income was 47.9 million dollars. The third quarter 2023 adjusted operating income dropped 160 basis points to 10 percent of net sales.


Net income for the quarter decreased to 38.5 million dollars or 3.05 dollars per diluted share and adjusted net income decreased to 40.6 million dollars or 3.22 dollars per diluted share.


The Children's Place year-to-date net sales down 8.4 percent




Net sales for the nine month period decreased 104.9 million dollars or 8.4 percent to 1.147 billion dollars and comparable retail sales decreased 8.1 percent.


Gross profit for the period decreased 88 million dollars to 346.4 million dollars and adjusted gross profit decreased 87.4 million dollars to 346.4 million dollars. Adjusted gross margin declined 440 basis points to 30.2 percent.


Operating loss was 22 million dollars in the nine months and adjusted operating loss was 1.6 million dollars. Year-to-date adjusted operating margin declined 550 basis points to negative 0.1 percent of net sales.


Net loss for the period was 25.7 million dollars or 2.06 dollars per diluted share, while adjusted net loss was 10.6 million dollars or 85 cents loss per diluted share.


The Company ended the third quarter with 591 stores. Consistent with the Company’s store fleet optimization initiative, the company permanently closed five stores during the quarter and has permanently closed 608 stores since 2013. The company is planning to close approximately 64 more stores by the end of the fourth quarter, leaving it with a fleet of approximately 530 stores.


The Children’s Place forecasts low-single digit sales increase for Q4




For the fourth quarter of 2023, the company now expects net sales in the range of 460 million dollars to 465 million dollars, representing a low single digit increase.


Adjusted operating profit is expected to be approximately 2 percent to 3 percent of net sales and adjusted net income per diluted share is estimated to be in the range of 25 cents to 45 cents based upon an anticipated weighted average number of shares of 12.6 million.


The company now expects net sales for the full year 2023, to be in the range of 1.605 billion dollars to 1.610 billion dollars, adjusted operating profit is estimated to be in the low single digit percentage range of net sales and adjusted net loss per diluted share is estimated to be in the range of 59 cents to 39 cents based upon an anticipated weighted average number of shares of 12.5 million.


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Buckle Q3 comparable sales drop by 9.2 percent

Credits: Image: Buckle store. Photo: 42031454 © Boggy | Dreamstime.com



Buckle third quarter net income decreased to 51.8 million dollars or 1.05 dollars per share or 1.04 dollars per share on a diluted basis.


Net sales for the quarter decreased 8.7 percent to 303.5 million dollars, while comparable store net sales decreased 9.2 percent and online sales decreased 16.2 percent to 46.1 million dollars.


Net income for the 39-week fiscal period decreased to 140.3 million dollars or 2.83 dollars per share and 2.81 dollars per share on a diluted basis.


Net sales for the nine months decreased 6.9 percent to 878.7 million dollars, while comparable store net sales decreased 7.3 percent and online sales decreased 9.4 percent to 141 million dollars.


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