Saturday, June 18, 2022

US Cotton Trust Protocol approved as standard for sustainable cotton

Image: US Cotton Trust Protocol The US Cotton Trust Protocol has announced it has been approved as a standard for sustainable cotton by an initiative of the German Federal Government, Siegelklarheit. The approval means that members of the Partnership for Sustainable Textiles (PST) can use Trust Protocol as a standard to calculate their share of sustainable cotton. Siegelklarheit aims to help consumers make more sustainable decisions by putting companies through an assessment process. “Members of the PST work together to achieve substantial social and ecological improvements in their global supply chains,” said Jürgen Janssen, head of the PST secretariat, in a release. Janssen continued: “This also includes the production of raw materials and thus the cultivation and processing of cotton. In the Textiles Partnership, we advocate for transparent and traceable criteria in the certification of sustainable cotton. We are pleased that the Trust Protocol has successfully passed the audit by Siegelklarheit.” The PST, which utilises an implementation framework and reporting format requiring members to indicate the level of sustainable and organic cotton used, can now look towards Trust Protocol, as well as other standards such as Better Cotton, Fairtrade Cotton and CottonConnect. Speaking on the organisation’s work, Trust Protocol president, Gary Adams, said: “The Trust Protocol’s vision is to set a new standard in sustainable cotton production where full transparency is a reality and continuous improvement to reduce our environmental footprint is the central goal. We commit to ensuring the protection and preservation of the planet, using the most sustainable and responsible techniques.”
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Inversa: the company hoping to build back the coral reef through leather production

Image: Inversa Interview Next Generation materials, a term often used for sustainable and ethical fibre alternatives, can quite often come from surprising natural elements - ones that are right under our noses but have not yet been explored to their full extent. Many materials in the Next Gen space revolve around the axing of animal-based products, something the fashion world is increasingly turning towards. However, Inversa is hoping its own alternative appeals to clients based on its ability to solve an increasingly worrisome problem. Inversa’s exotic leather is made from lionfish, a highly invasive species causing significant damage to the coral reef and biodiversity, particularly on the coast of Florida in the Atlantic waters. The company, which was most recently selected as the finalist for the Ocean Resilience Innovation Challenge grant by the Ocean Risk and Resilience Action Alliance (ORRAA), initially launched as a food supplier for restaurants. However, in order to pay divers a premium on their lionfish harvest, the team expanded into leather production, something they hope will keep growing within the fashion industry. The start-up has already launched partnerships with a number of brands, including Teton Leather Company, for which it provides lionfish leather for the likes of clutches and watches, and P448, an Italian footwear brand that it has worked together with on sustainable leather shoes. Now, Inversa is hoping its story will resonate with more global brands in order to achieve its goal of building the coral reef back better by removing more of this bothersome species. FashionUnited spoke with three members of the Inversa team, co-founders CEO Aarav Chavda and COO Roland Salatino and CMO Deepika Nagarajan, to find out more about the lionfish issue and the company’s plan to save the oceans around Florida, its home base. The lionfish dilemma The team, who are all scuba divers themselves, have spoken in detail about the rapidly declining quality of coral reefs, something they have had to witness first hand. “The lion fish, in particular, are such a problem,” Chavda stressed. “We watched the reef slowly die out, year over year, and it got to a point where I called up Roland and said we have got to do something about this.” Many organisations have cited that the species’ existence in Floridian waters is most likely down to humans releasing the breed into the wild, either by accident or from home aquariums. The problems that have emanated from the fish itself come from it not having any natural predators, leaving it free to mate at a rapid speed and kill up to 79 percent of young marine life within five weeks of entering the system, resulting in an overgrown reef that is left to die. Image: Inversa “We saw lots of nonprofits and government organisations coming into play to try and help, but we all know the power of the consumer to change and create the world they want to see” Chavda noted. “We wanted to make a way of producing new leather material such that we can tap into that power of the consumer and they can, in turn, heal the planet on their own terms.” The process of using fish for leather is often considered to have originated from indigenous practices and, while the company doesn’t use traditional resources and chemicals in its process, Chavda did state it was the root for which the Inversa concept stemmed from. “It was sort of the spark for the idea,” he said, “it is where we have done a lot of research.” Regenerative from start to finish Inversa prides itself on its near to net-zero production process, which COO Roland Salatino said starts with the value principle of being completely regenerative, from start to finish. “That goes for everything, including the way we get the lionfish, which is absolutely zero by-catch,” Salatino emphasised. “The divers we are working with are only getting lionfish, there is nothing else being caught up in this process at all – which is very hard for any other industry to say right now”. The company is also intentional in its tanning method, using less than 200 millilitres of water per skin, as well as its dying and finishing of the material. “It is all with the idea that this is a product that should leave the planet better for using it and creating it,” Salatino added. The final material is very thin and therefore extremely versatile and flexible, allowing for it to be utilised in many different applications. Past and current clients have implemented the leather into the likes of clutches, watches and wallets among other areas of fashion accessories. Image: Inversa “That is one of the points of feedback that we have consistently received from our customers – that they are really excited about how manipulable our leather is,” Nagarajan, CMO, said. “Typically, exotics can work against you because they are so stiff and heavy, while this has all the benefits of an exotic – the high texture, the beautiful look – but it is so malleable that you can use it for a variety of products.” In fact, according to the team, client responses have been positive all round, with many said to be just as enthusiastic about the concept as they are. “At the end of the day, it is such a human experience,” commented Nagarajan. “What we are really creating here is about standing together to build back the coral reefs. This is the first time you can tangibly hold something and say the world is better off because this is here. That story has been resonating really well.” Public response While the enthusiasm from the team can be infectious, they also understand the hesitancy that can come with the adoption of this product, especially as many brands and shoppers are beginning to turn away from animal-based materials. However, despite animal rights organisations like People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) recognising the drastic problems invasives cause, it is often that there are only a limited number of solutions on how to tackle the issue at hand. In response to FashionUnited’s query about the topic, PETA’s director of corporate projects, Yvonne Taylor, said that there was no exception to use any animal skin for a product, noting that it was “even more preposterous when you consider that humans are believed to be entirely responsible for the existence of the lionfish population in Florida”. Taylor added that we have a duty to find a humane solution to the problem that does not involve using spear guns. In spite of the uncertainty, the Inversa team have stuck closely to their message of only creating a positive change to the environment, while still recognising that it is a material that will not appeal to everyone. Nagarajan emphasised: “At the crux of what we’re doing, it is an animal-based product but we are preserving animal biodiversity. So, in that sense, we are advocating for the native life on the reef. That’s why we are doing all of this, because we want to preserve this into the future.” To stay in the loop with ethical and sustainable practices, Inversa has partnered with a number of nonprofits and organisations, many of which are Florida-based, as well as advisors in the marine biology community, allowing the team to mobilise a continuous stream of advice and feedback on the extent of damage and how they can mitigate some semblance of control. Image: Inversa Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission (FWC) are among those that have worked closely with Inversa. The organisation, which started its partnership with the leather company in early 2021, hosts regular lionfish tournaments, for which Inversa is a buyer and sponsor for, incentivising divers to remove the invasive species. Speaking to the organisation’s coastal resource manager, Alex Fogg, FashionUnited gained more understanding on the breed’s impact and the pivotal need to remove it swiftly from the food chain. Fogg detailed lionfish’s tendency to directly prey on or compete with other species of fish, including commercially important breeds or ones that keep the reef clean. While lionfish themselves cannot be considered the main culprit of the coral reef’s collapse or the decline in fisheries, Fogg did say they still had a heavy impact on these issues. Yet, regardless of the benefits of harvesting this threatening species, Fogg noted that criticism towards their capture was still very much present. “There have been plenty of instances where people have questioned why we are harvesting these fish,” Fogg said. “What it comes down to is either a lack of knowledge or understanding about the impact and why lionfish are an invasive species. But after having a conversation and providing some context, their attitude certainly changes. They may still be against eating the fish but they aren’t opposed to the fish being harvested.” Speaking on the harvesting process, Fogg added: “There are a lot of opportunities for divers to go out and catch lionfish, bring them back, help the ecosystem and fund their diving hobbies. It provides a very sustainable option for restaurants and a cool story for a leather product.” Future endeavours While the Inversa team expressed its excitement for a number of long-term partnerships down the pipeline, it also hinted at the possibility of expanding its process to address other invasive species ravaging different parts of the world. “The lionfish is a huge problem and it is one of the most famous, but it is only one of thousands of other invasives that are destroying ecosystems around the planet,” Chavda said. “We are always trying to push ourselves, push our process, push our waste water and our energy. We are really excited to also migrate our primary tan to a biobased tanning agent.” Nagarajan seconded Chavda’s enthusiasm, noting that the time for a manufacturer of such calibre was good as the industry continues to turn more and more towards sustainable materials. “People recognise that leather as a whole category needs alternatives and,now, they are also starting to specifically zone in on exotic leather and realise that it needs a very different type of alternative. That is exactly the space we play in,” she said. Additionally, the Inversa team also revealed it was planning to expand on initiatives alongside its partner the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA), an American scientific and regulatory agency and a leader in countering lionfish and other invasive species. While the team is already working with the organisation on business development and an incentive programme, it added that there was more news to come alongside NOAA in the future – another way it hopes to continue bringing its message to a wider audience. “In this world, while everyone is really striving to find leather alternatives that feed a ‘less-than’ mindset and where they eventually might even get to net-neutral, for which I really applaud all those taking the strides in that direction, we are going towards a material that goes beyond net-neutral and is instead net-positive. That is something we are very proud of,” Salatino concluded. Image: Inversa
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Friday, June 17, 2022

LVMH announces winners of Innovation Award during Vivo Technology

Image: LVMH 2022 Innovation Award Luxury conglomerate LVMH has announced the winners of its sixth Innovation Award during a dedicated award ceremony at 2022 Viva Technology in Paris. The overall winner was revealed to be Toshi, a London-based start-up providing sustainable and customised solutions for omnichannel retailers, which was selected from more than 950 applications received. “We are so thrilled and grateful to win the LVMH Innovation Awards,” said the start-up’s founder and CEO, Sojin Lee, in a release. Lee continued: “Brands are swiftly adapting to the new consumer lifestyle, which has already geared to the on-demand economy in all other elements of their lives, with convenience at its core. Brands must be omnichannel, sustainable and focus on customer service/experience.” Toshi will benefit from six months of personalised support, part of LVMH’s accelerator programme ‘La Maison des Startups LVMH’. Additional winners included data and artificial intelligence special mention, Marqvision, 3D virtual experience platform, Bitski, employee experience developers, Gamino, media and brand awareness firm, SeenThis, and omnichannel and retail live video creator, The ShowCase. Furthermore, Parisian company WeTurn was selected for the award’s sustainability category, recognising the start-up’s work in recycling unsold goods and textiles into fabrics.
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How digital and physical identities will intertwine in virtual fashion design

Image: Set Vexy, Met Ams 2022 The metaverse, while not an entirely new concept, is still under continuous development. It's not one tangible facet but a multiverse of different virtual environments that allow users to explore online spaces and their place in them. It was this particular aspect that was investigated during a panel discussion at Met Ams, a newly established conference in Amsterdam entirely focused on making the metaverse more accessible. The panel, held on Thursday, the second day of the two day event spanning June 15 to 16, consisted of a number of influential individuals in the digital fashion sphere, each of which contribute to varying elements of virtual design development. Founder of digital creative agency Mad XR, Ashumi S, senior lecturer at Amsterdam Fashion Academy, Giancarlo Pazzanese, and Kerry Murphy, the founder and CEO of digital fashion platform The Fabricant, each spoke of their own take on the merging of digital and physical identities in the metaverse space. When discussing the actual meaning of ‘identity’, the panellists mostly referenced links to their upbringing and personal experiences that helped shape who they are. They noted that these can often collide with how we unconsciously want to be perceived in the metaverse too, despite it essentially being a clean slate – something they all said we should work to move away from. “In the world we live in, we have these limitations around us, especially when it comes to the laws of physics,” said the panel’s moderator, metaverse and non-fungible token (NFT) strategist, Diego Borgo. “The exciting part of the metaverse and virtual reality is how you are breaking those boxes, so you can be whoever or whatever you want. I think that is exciting, especially when it comes to fashion and digital fashion.” “You can have multiple different personas…” Pazzanese agreed with Borgo’s sentiment, adding that this idea also works for clothing too. Designers are able to completely reimagine the silhouettes of standard clothing, reshaping what we know about an item and taking it beyond the boundaries that exist in the physical realm. The panellists each agreed that fashion brands should be taking advantage of this freedom that working in the digital space actually provides, exploring the new ways it allows users to express themselves and the fluidity of identity in virtual reality. “We are not set to be this one person, you can have multiple different personas,” The Fabricant’s Murphy said. “That’s really the power of the metaverse and the Web3 space. It brings us the tools to be able to express ourselves in much more unique ways. Hopefully, experiences in the metaverse will also come into our physical lives, where we may be brave enough to express ourselves in new ways that we wouldn’t normally have done.” Mad XR’s Ashumi said that she had observed children forming their identities through role playing in the real world, directly translating their experiences in metaverse gaming environments and ultimately contributing to the formation of their own expression and way of dressing. However, Murphy added that even children are facing the brunt of offline social constructs, often showing resistance towards using digital clothing in ways that could be negatively perceived offline, like a boy wearing dresses. “We need to make it a safe space..” “It’s funny how those social constructs come into that space as well – that we take it with us into the metaverse,” he commented. “I still think there is some type of learning to be done for kids to break down those barriers. It's a space where kids can learn to express themselves in a much richer way than their physical lives, but we need to make it into a safe space, not just where we bring in the same social constructs, because otherwise we aren't going anywhere.” Pazzanese said that it was this safe space that was an important yet often overlooked part of the metaverse, noting that bringing our unconscious biases into these spaces could hinder its development. “In order to be free, express ourselves and try these clothes, we need to feel safe,” he said. “There is a lot of invisible diversity, and that is what creates a community, when you are recognised and accepted for the aspects that you don’t see but want to express somehow.” However, to get to this point, the panellists emphasised the need for diversifying the space itself, with each of them noting that there is an obvious lack of women and cultural inclusivity within the Web3 and metaverse-based industries. This is evident in the often overtly sexualised female avatars present in online games, and created by male designers, or the sparse diversity in characters and digital creators. All agreed that it was imperative to change these elements in order to move forward. “There is a responsibility for the images we put out there as designers,” Pazzanese added. “The metaverse needs to be built by people with a long term vision, not just in the technical space. It is important to bring other builders into it – people that can define the values of the metaverse because it's a male driven environment. Otherwise, we are just replicating the same space we already have. The metaverse is an extension of our existence and it's supposed to be a place that is better to be in, rather than worse.” Ultimately, while the metaverse allows for much freedom and flexibility, companies should still take accountability over the images that they put out there, the lecturer continued. In doing so, Pazzanese hopes that the metaverse can become this ‘safe space’ for those looking to explore their identity, dismantle social constructs and promote a more inclusive environment.
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EssilorLuxottica to repurchase up to 2.5 million shares

Image: EssilorLuxottica EssilorLuxottica SA, a French provider of ophthalmic lenses and frames, said on Friday that it will buy back up to 2.5 million shares in the period starting from June 17 to August 31, for a price not exceeding 200 euros per share. Ophthalmic products maker also said that its move "reflects the Group's confidence in its value creation and long-term prospects." The company said, "The shares so acquired are intended to be awarded or transferred to employees and corporate directors of EssilorLuxottica and affiliated companies, especially in the context of profit-sharing plans, bonus and performance share awards, stock option plans, and employee share ownership plans."(AFP)
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London College of Fashion announces Enterprise Challenge 2022 winners

Image: Unsplash The London College of Fashion (LCF) has announced the winners of its Enterprise Challenge 2022; it is a platform that presents current creative and entrepreneurial LCF students to the university’s community and other industry professionals. Alice Simpson, a Master in Fashion Design Technology Womenswear student, and Emily Taylor, a Master in Fashion Futures student, have won the competition with their presentation on Sages, a company that produces natural dyes from food waste. Simpson and Taylor said in a statement: “We are thrilled to have won the Enterprise Challenge this year, and we are super excited for our next steps. Being recognised for what we are trying to achieve is a wonderful thing, and we are so grateful for everything that London College of Fashion, UAL has given us.” They will receive funding from the challenge’s sponsor Shaftesbury PLC, a British real estate investment trust, marketing promotion from Eyes on Talents, a marketing agency, coaching from Sister London, a design and digital agency, and mentoring from The Wall Group, a management company. In addition, they will receive a one-year Soho Friends Membership from Soho Works, a global network of workspaces that will include two feature interviews and a launch event for Sages. This year, they will also be invited to the UAL Creative Enterprise Awards Finals. Neha Mathew, a Master in Fashion Entrepreneurship and Innovation student, came in second place with Haav, an enterprise to repurpose extra fabric and use it for sustainable home decor products. Caitlin Higgs, a Bachelor in Creative Direction for Fashion student, was awarded third place for Un:earth, a service to track the lifespan of users’ clothing. Lastly, Isobel Wiles, a Bachelor in Fashion Design Technology student, and Johana Kasalicka, a Bachelor in Fashion Photography student, received a highly commended award for their pitch about Novey Zine, a publication with augmented reality content and CLoSh, a closet-sharing social media platform. A committee consisting of industry professionals including Amma Amihyia, senior manager of The Wall Group, Ioan Williams, general manager and membership manager at Soho Works, Jonathan Chippindale, CEO of Holition, Karen Baines, head of group marketing and communications at Shaftesbury PLC and Linda Roberts, director of graduate futures and business and innovation at LCF, UAL, selected the winners. Roberts added: “London College of Fashion was first founded in response to industry needs, and we continue to ensure that our students are encouraged to think, work and grow from a place of entrepreneurship to help prepare them for their careers. By looking forward to discovering where in the industry there might be skill gaps or what new roles are evolving, our students are equipped to think about what businesses need to thrive.”
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Russian shoppers are turning to grey markets to buy fashion and luxury

Image: Personal shopper via Pexels Russian consumers are turning to grey markets for their shopping needs after sanctions have made access to local fashion and luxury labels difficult, if not impossible. Like China’s daigou – personal shoppers who buy luxury goods abroad and resell them at home with a small markup but do so avoiding the hefty tariffs – a new breed of personal shoppers is catering to Russia’s elites. Now that most western brands are legally required to halt or limit their Russian operations, international sanctions are affecting local populations access to goods. Parallel system An investigation by Panorama lifted the lid on the parallel system which since the pandemic has seen a rise in Chinese personal shoppers at privately held events in Italy where they purchase products from leading fashion and luxury houses, usually at discount. These are then sold back home with markup of 30 percent. In recent weeks Russian shoppers have joined China’s daigou, with Russia turning a blind eye to parallel imports and third-party sellers. The Federation has waived the need for retailers importing products to have the trademark owner's permission, paving the way for a buoyant grey market. Wildberries, a multibrand e-commerce platform in Russia, is selling brands including Zara, despite the sancations, reported Reuters. Other Inditex brands, including Pull & Bear and Massimi Dutti were also available on the platform. "We are buying goods that we sell from Wildberries without intermediaries, only directly from producers or official distributors," Wildberries said in a statement to Reuters. Whether or not these are past seasons collections or certain distributors are continuing to sell to Russian buyers under the table, it would appear the system to acquire goods may be more challenging for Russians, but not altogether impossible.
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Thursday, June 16, 2022

Hypebeast to open US-based flagship building

Image: Hypebeast Culture and lifestyle platform Hypebeast is set to open a seven-floor flagship space that will house the company’s entire ecosystem under one building. The location, which is scheduled to open in an event on June 17, will include a HBX New York flagship store, event space, office headquarters and Hypebeans café, contributing to the 25,000 square-foot space. The HBX space, which spans two floors, will be a continuously changing space, Hypebest said in a release. While its ground floor will operate as an event, exhibition and pop-up space, the second floor will showcase a curation of 40 global brands from both established and emerging labels, for menswear, womenswear and lifestyle. Finally, the flagship’s third floor will be home to cultural activations and brand pop-ups, as well as housing the company’s 100 employees.
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Asos cuts profit outlook

Image: Asos Asos reported quarterly sales growth of 4 percent in the three months ended 31 May against a prior comparative growth rate of 47 percent reflecting P3 gross sales growth broadly in line with expectations. The company has updated guidance for the year to reflect uncertain consumer purchasing behaviour and the potential continuation of higher returns. It now expects revenue growth to be between 4 percent and 7 percent, and adjusted profit before tax to be in the range of 20 million pounds to 60 million pounds compared to prior guidance of 110 million pounds to 140 million pounds. Separately, Asos has announced the appointment of José Antonio Ramos Calamonte as chief executive officer and Jørgen Lindemann as chair. Commenting on the quarterly trading results, Asos COO Mat Dunn said: “What is now clear, based on the significant increase in returns rates, is that this inflationary pressure is increasingly impacting our customers' shopping behaviour. It is too early to tell for how long the current pattern of customer behaviour will continue but we are taking swift and decisive steps to minimise the impacts.” Highlights of Asos results The company’s gross margin declined by 310 bps to 44 percent in the quarter, driven by UK growth of 4 percent with accelerating growth throughout the period as the company cycled a period of more normalised comparatives in the second half of P3. It saw a strong performance in occasion-wear amidst an uplift in demand driven by holidays, weddings and events, which was partially offset by an increased return rates The EU declined by 2 percent, with return rates trending above pre-pandemic levels in some territories as inflationary pressures impacted consumer purchasing behaviours. The US grew by 15 percent, supported by continued strength of the Topshop brands, targeted promotional activity, and increased demand for going out wear. ROW declined by 8 percent. However, Australia returned to growth as delivery propositions improved and Premier was reactivated.
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Asos names José Antonio Ramos Calamonte as CEO

Image: Asos Marketplace x Collusion - Dream But Do Not Sleep / Groovy Gal Asos has announced the appointment of José Antonio Ramos Calamonte as chief executive officer and Jgøren Lindemann as chair. Calamonte is currently chief commercial officer of the company. Commenting on the new appointment, Ian Dyson, outgoing chair of Asos, said: “José is the right person to lead Asos through the next phase of growth. Since he joined the business, José has made an enormous contribution, driving change through our commercial function and bringing new energy and enthusiasm to the core product and trading functions of the business.” Asos appoints new CEO and chair Incoming CEO Calmonte joined Asos from leading Portuguese fashion company, Salsa Jeans, where he held the position of chief executive officer for almost two years. He is an experienced international retailer, with an 18-year career across brands including Inditex, Esprit, and Carrefour Spain, having started his career at McKinsey. Jørgen Lindemann, who joined the Asos board as a non-executive director on November 1, 2021, will become chair, succeeding Ian Dyson, with effect from August 1, 2022, when Dyson will step down. Lindemann, the company said, has deep experience of leading digital-first businesses. In addition to his role on the Asos board, he is currently the chair of Miinto, the Danish-based online fashion marketplace and a board member of Bambuser AB. He is the former president and CEO of Modern Times Group, the Sweden-based digital entertainments business and recently stood down from the board of Zalando following five-years as a non-executive director. “Jørgen Lindemann has made a big impact since joining the board of Asos last year and I am delighted that he will step up to take the chair role and ensure a seamless transition as Ian Dyson steps down,” added Patrick Kennedy, senior independent non-executive director of Asos.
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Damages to Marilyn Monroe’s dress revealed following Met Gala

Image: AFP Forum, AFP Dimitrios Kambouris - Kim Kardashian at MET Gala 2022 The private museum that owns an iconic dress worn by Marilyn Monroe allowed it to be “permanently damaged" when it lent it to reality star Kim Kardashian for her appearance at the Met Gala extravaganza last month, a Monroe memorabilia collector alleged Wednesday. A platinum blonde Kardashian shined but also stirred controversy when she donned the stunning skin-tight gown Monroe wore in 1962 to sing "Happy Birthday, Mr President" to John F Kennedy. Scott Fortner, a collector who runs a website dedicated entirely to Monroe, released before and after photos this week of the crystal-studded cream gown. The after shots were taken by a friend of Fortner, who saw the dress on display Sunday at curiosity museum Ripley's Believe It or Not! in Los Angeles, which owns the dress and had allowed Kardashian to wear it. The comparison shots seem to show small tears in the fabric near hooks that fastened the dress together as well as missing crystals and others hanging by a thread. The alleged damage to the gown, which Ripley's bought at auction for a record 4.8 million dollars, has drawn widespread criticism on social media in recent days. In an update published to his Instagram account on Wednesday, Fortner specified: "I blame Ripley's, as they allowed the dress to be worn." "I feel that any and every celebrity offered a chance to wear this garment very likely would jump at the opportunity," he said. "There's a reason someone would want to wear it. Kim K. just happened to be the one who got to do it." "It's now permanently damaged, and likely would have been damaged regardless of who wore it," Fortner said. Asked by AFP about the accusations, Ripley's did not respond Wednesday afternoon. In early May, Ripley's trumpeted the opportunity for Kardashian to wear the dress. "Great care was taken to preserve this piece of history. With input from garment conservationists, appraisers, archivists, and insurance, the garment's condition was top priority," the company said. Kardashian, who reportedly went on a major diet to be able to squeeze into the legendary garment, did not respond to the allegations on her social networks.(AFP)
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Livestreaming and stores as physical fulfilment centres – China’s innovative retail experiences

Image by FashionUnited, Shoptalk Europe “Think about e-commerce platforms and how many times you use them per day. Probably no more than once,” said Mei Chen, head of fashion and luxury UK, US and Northern Europe at Alibaba Group, during the Shoptalk Europe retail show in London last week. “Now if you go to China and you ask consumers how many times they use our Alibaba e-commerce B2C app, they come to our platform between eight to nine times,” she continued. “And on average it's more than half an hour per day, according to third party data from consultancies.” More than half of global e-commerce sales come from China, which is home to some of the most innovative retail technologies and business models. Mei Chen from Alibaba and Claudia Vernotti, co-founder and director of ChinaEU, discussed the specifics of the Chinese market and the latest innovations in the luxury industry in a panel at Shoptalk Europe. The retail show, which took place from June 6 to 8 in London, saw over 3,000 experts from the industry come together to share insights through exhibits and panel discussions. “If we think about the luxury industry in Europe or in the US, in comparison to China, the consumers are on average 10 to 15 years younger than the ones that we have in London, Paris, Milan and New York,” explained Chen in conversation with Deborah Weinswig, founder and CEO of the research and advisory firm Coresight Research. “So for any international luxury brands trying to replicate what they're doing in Paris, London or Milan, in China it will not work for a number of reasons.” Platforms like Instagram and Google that work well in Western markets, for example, do not exist, and even if some do, they are not the primary space in which consumers in their 20s and 30s interact with brands. Gen Z as a central luxury consumer Given the younger age of the target group in China, luxury brands have to consider marketing to them differently. “The consumers that we have, Gen Z, or in Chinese you would call them the ‘Post 2000’, so the consumers born after the 2000s, are incredibly interested in experiencing new ways of engaging with brands,” Chen explained. That’s why, for the Chinese market, brands have been using technologies like augmented reality for virtual try-ons and livestreaming for years. In keeping with the so-called ‘China speed’, innovations are implemented much faster than in Europe or the US. Over here, traditional luxury heritage brands like Burberry have just now also started to launch digital collectibles, better known as non-fungible tokens (NFTs), to attract the digitally-savvy younger generation. Livestreaming is something that has been around in China for more than a decade, and, especially in the world of luxury, there have been some upgrades since the pandemic. For example, livestreams from one-to-many and especially one-on-one have gained popularity. Additionally, when shopping malls around the world were closed during the pandemic, the empty stores were used as offline locations for livestreaming in China, Chen explained. “Most brands in China, especially in shopping malls, leveraged sales assistants who essentially used their phones, no complex technology like big cameras or production teams, to do live streaming for their customers to showcase the latest collections and products,” she said. With so many innovations happening digitally in China, the physical store takes on a new role as well. “It's not just about online offline merging together, it's about reimagination,” said Claudia Vernotti of ChinaEU. According to her, physical stores are becoming experimental fulfilment centres, where the customer is the focus, in order to increase customer satisfaction and meet demands. The customer itself changes its role and is no longer just a shopper, but also a contributor and ambassador. “There is this revolution that is of course backed by technology, which needs to recognise the user across different channels in a seamless way,” she concluded. Shoptalk Europe 2022 takes place in London between 6-8 June and brings together more than 3,000 attendees from more than 70 countries. Keep an eye on further coverage of the event from FashionUnited here.
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Wednesday, June 15, 2022

Levi Strauss & Co appoints new MD of South Asia-Middle East and Africa

Image: Levi Strauss, Facebook Levi Strauss & Co has tapped Amisha Jain to lead its South Asia-Middle East and Africa (SAMEA) markets. As senior vice president and managing director of SAMEA, Jain is tasked with leading the US denim giant’s operations in those markets, and “ensuring that the geography continues to drive expansion and growth”. Jain has over 20 years of experience across various industries, and was most recently the CEO of Indian intimate-wear brand and platform Zivame, during which time she oversaw the company’s acquisition by Reliance Group in 2020. Earlier in her career, Jain served as chief operating officer of Arvind Sports Lifestyle, and head of sales of Nike’s Indian business. “We are thrilled to welcome such a dynamic, proven leader to the company,” said Seth Ellison, executive vice president and chief commercial officer of Levi Strauss & Co. He continued: “Amisha’s years leading digital and physical retail businesses, her track record of delivering results while connecting with consumers and her passion for innovation are a combination that will set our SAMEA cluster up for accelerated growth.” Jain succeeds Sanjeev Mohanty, who has stepped into the role of senior vice president and managing director of Levi Strauss’ US and Canada business.
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Robertet Group appoints new CEO

Image: Robertet Group Beauty French fragrance and flavour manufacturer Robertet Group has announced a new corporate structure that separates the roles of chairman and chief executive officer. In a statement, Robertet Group said that the move was “an important event in the evolution” of the company’s management team in the wake of good results in 2021 and at the beginning of 2022. To help preserve its independence while continuing to grow, it has appointed Jérôme Bruhat as chief executive of the Robertet Group. “Bruhat will have the threefold objective of consolidating the natural product’s position as world leader, continuing to grow the company, and updating its operations,” explained Robertet. While Philippe Maubert, who was chairman and CEO, will take up the role of non-executive chairman of the board of directors to “ensure the continuity of the company’s strategy and values to preserve its independence”.
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Inside Zalando’s plan to be the home of ‘streetwear, new luxury and fashion inspiration’

Background Image: Zalando newsroom Online retailer Zalando has been part of the fashion industry for almost 15 years now. During that time, the German company has introduced many new services and expanded its range considerably. Now, the platform is consciously working on not just being a general e-tailer, but becoming the destination for “new luxury, streetwear and fashion inspiration”. On Monday evening, Zalando announced it had acquired a majority stake in Highsnobiety, a fashion and lifestyle platform and a creative consultancy agency. The takeover is in line with the ambition that Zalando has emphasized in recent years: To become the destination for 'new luxury', focusing more and more on diversity and inclusivity. With the acquisition of Highsnobiety, Zalando immediately gains a huge wealth of insight about streetwear, something that fits with its recently launched campaign that focuses entirely on streetwear. Zalando's journey is one of many steps, as becomes clear once again when one takes a good look at its history. From German retailer to global giant - a look back at Zalando’s growth Today, Zalando is much more than just an e-tailer, it has a true platform business model. The principles of this could already be seen in 2011 - two years after its launch - when it opened a marketplace for third parties, allowing it to expand its range considerably. This collaboration with other parties has only become more important over the years. Zalando took its first steps into the luxury segment in 2013, but not under its own name. Back then, it launched a new project: luxury fashion platform Emeza. Visitors could log in to the new platform with their Zalando details, but the luxury fashion platform did not prominently mention that it was a subsidiary of Zalando. Soon after, the webshop of Zalando-owned brand Kiomi was announced. The brand focused on both menswear and womenswear and mainly sold 'fashion classics'. However, Emeza and Kiomi did not last long - nine months after the launch, the platforms had already stopped. Developing the two brands took too much time, so the focus instead returned completely to the Zalando brand, CEO David Schneider said at the time. But Schneider indicated that the luxury segment was still interesting for the platform, and in May 2014, the renewed premium segment at Zalando was launched. Zalando proved again in 2015 that it was still coming out with surprises when it announced it was the new major investor of the Berlin fashion fair Bread & Butter. The move signalled the end of the fair as it was known, and the introduction of a new consumer-oriented fashion festival. The aim was to bring brands and consumers together during the event. Bread & Butter would return as a three-day fashion festival (Bread & Butter by Zalando) where brands could show and sell their new collections directly to consumers. The audience that came to the first edition were therefore drastically different from those attending during the previous fashion fairs: Not fashion professionals, but fashion lovers in their twenties to forties. Big names such as Google and Marni were associated with the new event and were part of special collaborations that Zalando was setting up. However, fast forward to 2018, and it appeared the event had experienced its last edition. “Everything we invest in and try must take us strategically forward as a company while also being scalable. With Bread & Butter we have hit natural limits,” an announcement read at the time. With today's knowledge, another chapter in Zalando's history that stands out is its acquisition of basketball and streetwear retailer Kickz in early 2017. At that time, Zalando was already focusing more on selling streetwear. The target group of Kickz was also a major reason for the acquisition. However, Kickz did not remain in Zalando's portfolio for long. Zalando sold the company in December 2019 because there was a lot of overlap between the Kickz's range and that of Zalando, which had expanded considerably in two years. Zalando reiterated in June 2017 its goal to become the fashion go-to destination in Europe during the Zalando PlayDay in Berlin. The e-commerce player outlined plans to expand its business model and offer B2B services. “We want to become the operational system for the fashion world,” the company said at the time. From that moment on, fashion brands that offered their collections via Zalando could also transfer the delivery to Zalando. At this time, the ultimate platform strategy the company has today is gradually taking shape. Growth beyond fashion Fashion alone was no longer enough. In 2019, Zalando expanded its platform into the burgeoning beauty segment. That same year, the company also began testing a physical resale clothing store called Zircle. This move to second-hand appears to have been a harbinger a year later, as Zalando added a pre-owned category to its platform in 2020. At the same time, the e-tailer announces it would add luxury fashion brands to its range. Zalando said it was taking this step to further underline its mission of being the starting point for fashion. “Young consumers especially like to mix and match high street fashion brands with sports and designer items,” said Zalando's co-CEO at the time, David Schneider. “Premium has been our fastest growing category in recent months and we see unprecedented potential in this area,” he said. The story didn't stop at fashion, luxury items and beauty. Zalando announced in 2020 its intention to become more diverse and inclusive. At the time of the announcement, the company said it planned to offer beauty products for all skin tones and planned to partner with at least 70 black-owned brands by 2022. The company said it would also start de-gendering its websites and apps in 2020 - that meant customers could register without having to provide information about their gender, and gender-specific pronouns were no longer used in communication to customers. Last year, Zalando launched a genderless landing page for all unisex items across its platform. Looking at Zalando's steps in recent years, it is clear the company is not going for the approach of an everyday e-tailer. The company has been working for years, through trial and error, to create its own niche within the online fashion world. In the fiscal 2021 year, Zalando reported a 29.7 percent increase in revenue to 10.4 billion euros, as its net income increased to 234.5 million euros from 226.1 million euros the previous year. The e-tail giant counted 48.5 million active customers across 25 markets in 2021, with a total of 252.2 million orders placed. Zalando faces fierce competitors in the fashion e-commerce world, such as About You, Otto, Net-a-Porter, and many others. It is therefore not surprising that the company wants to create its own niche. The e-tailer has been developing for years, which ensured that it ended up in ninth place in the Top 100 Cross-Border Marketplaces in Europe in 2021, and first place in terms of the fashion industry. How and whether the acquisition of Highsnobiety will ultimately contribute to Zalando's journey, we’ll have to wait and see. But one thing is for sure: it won't be the e-tailer 's last surprise move. This article was originally published on FashionUnited.NL before being translated and edited into English
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Tuesday, June 14, 2022

US sportswear retailer Lids to open 20 stores in Germany

Foto: Lids Following its entry into the European market late last year, US sportswear retailer Lids is expanding into Germany with the planned opening of 20 standalone stores. The company will start by opening three Berlin locations in the coming weeks, with stores in other cities to follow, including in Bremen, Dresden, and Hamburg. The Indianapolis-based company has a focus on apparel and caps from popular US sports, including American football, basketball, and baseball “Throughout the years we’ve had requests to bring the unparalleled assortment of Lids to Germany, which has a massive headwear market,” Lids president Britten Maughan said in a statement. He continued: “Germany has a strong fashion accessory market and a growing affinity for US sports, which fits into the core strengths of the Lids product offering.” The news comes after Lids announced its entrance into the European market in December 2021 through the opening of its first four stores in England. Today, Lids operates almost 1,200 stores throughout the US, Canada, Puerto Rico, Mexico and England, including through its retail partnerships with Macy’s and Designer Brands.
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Finisterre partners with Circular Flow on neoprene regeneration scheme

Image: Finisterre Sustainable outdoor and surf brand Finisterre is teaming up with Circular Flow, which has devised the world’s first closed-loop neoprene regeneration scheme to recycle wetsuits into new neoprene products. Finisterre states that the manufacturing process of wetsuits and other neoprene products is toxic, as finite rubber and limestone create levels of pollution dangerous to wildlife and people, and wetsuits are currently recycled on a large scale so end up in landfills. To combat this, Finisterre is launching an innovative 100 percent recyclable neoprene partnership with Suffolk-based Circular Flow, which has developed the technology and manufacturing processes to recycle neoprene into a new sheet of fabric, something which it claims has never been done before. Image: Finisterre Finisterre notes that 8,380 tonnes of wetsuits are discarded into landfills or incinerated across the globe and it is hoping that its partnership will recycle old wetsuits for use again and again to reduce carbon emissions and protect the environment and oceans. Circular Flow can process 100 percent of returned neoprene items, including zips and plastic elements, into recycled neoprene sheets 100 percent fit for creating new neoprene items. It also adds that Circular Flow can accept the recycled product back for recycling up to seven times, which can extend the life of an item from two to over 20 years on average. Finisterre to recycle wetsuits with Circular Flow to create recycled neoprene products in spring 2023 As part of the initiative, Finisterre is offering a take-bake scheme for wetsuits of any brand and condition to be dropped off at any Finisterre store or sent via freepost during June in exchange for 20 percent off a future purchase. Once they have reached their target of 1,000 wetsuits, they will then be shipped to the Circular Flow factory and recycling plant and made into new products and retailed again. Finisterre adds that it hopes to release a series of recycled neoprene products from its Circular Flow partnership in spring 2023, with a particular focus on recycled boots, gloves, hats, and other items to be worn in the water. Finisterre founder Tom Kay said in a statement: “There have been great advances in eco wetsuits and the search for alternatives to petroleum-based neoprene, but the real elephant in the room for the water-sports industry is what to do with a wetsuit at the end of its functional life. “We are therefore very excited to have finally found a closed loop solution for wetsuit and neoprene waste – and we have been searching for some time!” Image: Finisterre Image: Finisterre
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Cradle to cradle, investment and recycling: How Ralph Lauren wants to become more circular

Halide Alagöz at Copenhagen Fashion Summit | Image: FashionUnited Ralph Lauren wants to manufacture products in a more responsible and circular way, part of which includes a focus on the cradle to cradle certification the US fashion company is introducing for certain products. The first product to be certified with this more circular and responsible production standard will be a cashmere jumper, the company’s chief product and sustainability officer Halide Alagöz announced at the Global Fashion Summit in Copenhagen on June 7. The cradle to cradle cashmere jumper is set to launch later this year. A total of five pieces are slated for certification by 2025. In addition, certain products will be made entirely from recycled cotton. Ralph Lauren pushes circular economy Ralph Lauren has committed to extending the life of its products by 2025. Part of this initiative includes the introduction of repair and recycling service at selected locations. The company also plans to invest in innovative technologies such as that of start-up Natural Fiber Welding, which focuses on sustainable materials science. The Ralph Lauren Corporate Foundation has already supported the US Regenerative Cotton Fund. Ralph Lauren's goal is to inspire the dream of a better life through perfect and timeless design, Alagöz said at the Global Fashion Summit. Even when the eponymous designer founded the label, timeless design was at the forefront. Now, by 2025, the circular economy is being integrated into the company's DNA, which the sustainability chief summarizes as “timeless”. This article was originally published on FashionUnited.DE before being translated and edited into English
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Fila and Playboy launch women’s capsule collection

Image: Fila x Playboy In Pictures Sportswear brand Fila has teamed up with Playboy to launch a women’s apparel capsule collection exclusively at Urban Outfitters. The 13-piece collection draws inspiration from 70s styles, with “trend-forward updates” geared towards the Urban Outfitters shopper, with a mix of matching sets and separates in brown, navy, white, green and marigold hues. The line combines the Fila F-Box and Playboy Bunny logos and includes co-branding across tracksuits, T-shirts, tanks, shorts, and rompers. Image: Fila x Playboy Highlights include the tracksuit that puts a 70s spin on a classic Fila style, with wide-leg bottoms and pinstripe detailing on the jacket, while the collection’s two playsuits include a brown and white ribbed style, fashioned with a collar and belt. A second playsuit is adorned with an all-over print that blends Fila’s F-box logo with Playboy magazine covers from the 70s. The same graphic pattern is also featured on a tank and skirt set. Rounding out the collection is a selection of ringer tees that feature archival magazine prints, as well as two halter tops and a pair of white shorts. The Fila x Playboy collection is available at select Urban Outfitters stores in the UK, and on urbanoutfitters.com/en-gb, fila.co.uk and playboy.com. Image: Fila x Playboy Image: Fila x Playboy Image: Fila x Playboy Image: Fila x Playboy
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Tracing a trend: men in skirts

Image: Burberry/Molly Goddard/Louis Vuitton Men wearing skirts is commonplace in certain countries including Fiji, Myanmar and Bhutan. In Greece, it’s an integral part of the military dress uniform. However, nowhere has a skirt been of more cultural significance than the Scottish kilt. A history of the Scottish kilt Image: Courtesy Macgregor and Macduff According to the Macgregor and Macduff blog, the first mention of kilts was in 1538. At that time, a kilt was a full-length garment called the féileadh mor or 'the great kilt'. It was a five meter untailored piece of fabric that was wrapped around the waist, with the excess material draped over the shoulder. It wasn’t until the early 18th century that the knee length kilt we recognize today came about. Over time, different clans identified themselves with specific tartan plaids and colors. The modern era Jean Paul Gaultier is credited with the first designer to show skirts for men on the runway. They were first presented as part of his Et Dieu Créa l’Homme (And God Created Man) collection in 1985, wide-leg trousers with a wrap-over panel created the illusion of the skirt, "challenging masculinity and questioning clothing stereotypes", according to his website. In Recent Seasons No doubt due to the blending of gender norms and the desire by many to be non-binary, in the past few seasons, skirts for men have been shown on many runways, here are some of the best: Fall/Winter 2021 Runway Collections Burberry Image: Courtesy Burberry F/W21 For the Burberry F/W21 menswear collection, Riccardo Tisci showed a series of skirts and kilts, mostly over pants, and a variety of jackets and coats designed with 'British style' in mind. It was a theme he expanded on for FW22 with an emphasis on the heritage of the Burberry brand. Image: Courtesy Burberry FW22 Louis Vuitton Image: Courtesy Louis Vuitton FW21 Virgil Abloh's presentation 'Ebonics,' mixed American staples with other global influences, including plaid kilts and skirts under suit jackets. Molly Goddard Image: Courtesy Molly Goddard FW21 Worn by model Lucas Chancellor, Goddard showed a Royal Stewart tartan kilt and a Fair Isle sweater with a a white shirt and suit jacket, accessorized by socks and ‘creepers’. Fall/Winter 2022 Runway Collections Off-White Image: Courtesy Off-White FW22 Virgil Abloh's posthumous show entitled 'Spaceship Earth,' look 14 worn by Gyuhyun Kim, was a show-stopping combination of a 'shacket' and coat with a pleated skirt over pants, all in black and green tartan. Jan Jan Van Essche Image: Courtesy Jan Jan Van Essche FW22 For look 8, Antwerp's Jan Jan Van Essche showed a pleated skirt over grey denim jeans under a blouson jacket with a knit sweater and beanie. Dolce & Gabbana figure> Image: Courtesy Dolce & Gabbana FW22 Look 55 was an oversized houndstooth skirt suit over a logo tee and rubber boots. Gucci Image: Courtesy Gucci FW22 Alessandro Michele presented a collection in collaboration with Adidas. Look 39 was a striped sports coat black leather tie and blue shirt over a yellow tartan kilt over track pants. Accessories mixed Gucci and Adidas logos and other details. Y/Project Image: Courtesy Y/Project FW22 Glenn Martens's collection for Y/Project included look 44: a double layered waist length jacket of denim and shearling under a silver nylon puffer and dark denim gored skirt with side splits over leather boots. Egonlab Image: Courtesy Egonlab FW22 From Florentin Glemarec and Kevin Nompeix of Egonlab, look 23 consisted of a jacket, kilt and pants all in a neutral colored window-pane check. DSquared2 Image: Courtesy DSquared2 FW22 From Dean and Dan Caten, a collection they called ‘Hippy Hiker’ and a bohemian layered mix for look 42 on Brandon, an embroidered pullover shown over a pair of tattered jeans and split from long tartan kilt. Off the runway Mark Bryan, who identifies as a ‘straight, cis male’ photographs himself everyday in a skirt and heels. He currently boasts 660K followers on Instagram (markbryan911). Further evidence that skirts for men are hitting mainstream fashion is the abundance of appearances by major celebrities wearing them. That list includes Pete Davidson, Machine Gun Kelly, Harry Styles, Bad Bunny, Diddy and Lil’Nas. Not to mention, the very masculine looking Oscar Isaac. Isaac made headlines at a screening of ‘Moon Knight' in London, dressed in a Thom Browne grey pleated skirt suit. All predictions point toward the idea of the man skirt or kilt growing exponentially each season.
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Monday, June 13, 2022

Rent the Runway doubles Q1 revenue, but losses remain

Image: Rent the Runway Fashion rental platform Rent the Runway has reported doubling revenue in the first quarter of the year, though its net loss remained almost unchanged. In the three months to April 30, the US company reported a 100 percent increase in revenue to 67.1 million dollars as its ending active subscribers increased by 82 percent. Its net loss came in at 42.5 million dollars compared to a loss of 42.3 million dollars a year earlier. Jennifer Hyman, CEO and co-founder of Rent the Runway, said she was “excited to share that we exceeded our Q1 guidance across all key metrics both on the top and bottom lines”. She continued: “Our strong performance is evidence of our firm position in the broader experience economy, which has enabled us to make significant progress on our path to profitability and achieve record ending Active Subscribers in the first quarter of 2022.” Looking ahead, the company expects FY22 revenue in the range of between 295 million dollars and 305 million dollars. It expects an adjusted EBITDA margin of between -6 percent and -5 percent.
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Have you been to Gucci Town? Fashion brands are setting up permanent social spaces in the metaverse

Image: Gucci x Roblox Brands are flocking to the metaverse, staking their Web3 presence for what is hopefully the inevitable: when the masses begin to adopt digital’s new frontier and start spending their time and money in alternate universes. Gucci last week unveiled the curtains to Gucci Town, a virtual piazza in Roblox’s landscape. Powered by Vault, Gucci’s experimental online space, here visitors can find novel ways of connecting with the House, such as creating artworks or take part in branded competitions. The Florentine fashion company has been at the forefront of immersive digital experiences, starting with its award winning digital Gucci Garden in 2021. Vault is an emissary of Gucci’s presence within the metaverse, which is constantly evolving through creative endeavours with the online community. Here Web3-based initiatives including NFTs can be experienced alongside a curation of rare vintage pieces, exclusive capsule collections, limited-edition styles and other items from a selection of brands, as selected by Gucci's Creative Director, Alessandro Michele. Evolving digital experiences True to the Roblox ethos of building connections through shared creative experiences, Gucci Town is home to a broad range of activities that will evolve through time. In a media release the Kering-owned brand says it seeks to map out new territory to build meaningful experiences. Products and content were developed hand-in-hand with independent content creators from the Roblox community such as Rook Vanguard, Bunnexhand and Lirn. Millions are flocking to Gucci Town To date over 18 million visits have been made to Gucci Town, proving that fashion has a prominent place in next generation social media. Other brands are following suit, with Tommy Hilfiger launching Tommy Play space, where users can see fashion items in collaboration with the Roblox creator community. New technological advances called Layered Clothing system enables brands fit clothing and accessories to any avatar body type. Users can now outfit existing Roblox avatars with up to 6 layers of clothing, on top of any existing classic clothing. Roblox said creating any 3D clothing system is to design a system that works, not only with the enormous amount of bodies already on the platform today, but also to work with the creative avatars expected to be formed in the community ‘s future. Brands are tapping into new digital communities and formats, so much so that Tommy Hilfiger employs 4 digital fashion creators and a developer studio for their experience. Other brands working with Layered Clothing include DRESSX, Puma, Alo Yoga and Forever 21.
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Nicholas Daley wins BFC/GQ Designer Fashion Fund

Image: Mulberry; Nicholas Daley The British Fashion Council (BFC) has announced Nicholas Daley as the winner of the 2022 BFC/GQ Designer Fashion Fund, which comes with 12-month mentoring and 150,000 pounds to accelerate growth. The award was established in 2014 to celebrate and empower British menswear talent and has previously been awarded to Ahluwalia, A-Cold-Wall*, Craig Green, E Tautz and Christopher Shannon. As the winner, Daley will take part in a 12-month bespoke high-level business mentoring programme, as well as receive pro-bono legal services from Sheridans and a 150,000 pounds cash prize to help grow his business internationally. Adam Baidawi, head of editorial content at British GQ and deputy global editorial director at GQ, said in a statement: “Nicholas Daley is a phenomenon. He has brought to life a menswear vision that is totally his own. On top of his wild and dizzying design talent, Nicholas has a gift for curation, pulling together a diverse collection of collaborators and influences to create a truly modern brand. We couldn’t be prouder to be honouring him.” Commenting on winning, Daley added: “I am very honoured to receive this award and I would like to thank GQ the BFC and the industry judging panel for selecting me as this year’s winner. The funding and mentoring program will support me in continuing to grow my brand for the future.” BFC and GQ award fashion fund to Nicholas Daley Daley, a graduate from Central Saint Martins, launched his eponymous label in 2015. He presents workwear-inspired silhouettes and bespoke tailoring exploring his dual-ethnic heritage of Jamaican and Scottish descent, as well as the symbiotic relationship between fashion, jazz, reggae, post-punk, and dub. His unique aesthetic has seen him collaborate with brands including Adidas, Fred Perry and Mulberry. Caroline Rush, chief executive of the British Fashion Council added: “With a continued emphasis on community, craftsmanship and culture and cementing a place at the centre of London society - Nicholas Daley is a menswear brand exploring the interplay of fashion, music and art in novel and exciting ways. “With a forward-thinking approach, Daley challenges the way fashion is deciphered through presentations, live performances, and films. He is a breath of fresh air and we are excited to see what the brand continues to achieve in the future.” For the 2022 BFC/GQ Designer Fashion Fund, Daley beat off tough competition from Clothsurgeon, LYPH and Olubiyi Thomas, who have all had the opportunity to participate in a mentoring programme through the BFC’s Designer Initiatives team, with access to funders, industry experts, and pro-bono legal services from Sheridans.
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Head Sportswear appoints sales director for North America

Image: Head Sportswear Head Sportswear, a global supplier of ski, tennis, and diving equipment and apparel, has named Jessica Goodman its new sales director for North America. Goodman has extensive experience in wholesale management, marketing, and brand development, explains Head Sportswear in the press release, and joins the company from Goldbergh Luxury Sports, where she served as North America sales manager. Before that, Goodman was North American head of sales for Bogner of America. Commenting on the appointment, Roman Stepek, vice president global Head Sportswear: “Jessica's extensive experience in this space, her work ethic, her fashionable style, and her vision are incredible and needed to bring Head Sportswear to the next level for our NA sports retailers and fashion retailers.” The Austrian-based sportswear brand relaunched in 2017 to highlight its performance-oriented ski and tennis clothing and is also working with skier Lindsey Vonn on a Legacy Line, which it adds will “create an entirely new look in the brand’s history with a new, modern design language”. Goodman added: “There is so much opportunity in skiwear, with its combination of being stylish and technical. Ski-Fashion is having a big moment right now, in both the high-end and mainstream marketplace, as well as on social media, so we plan to capitalise on that. “With a powerhouse like Lindsey Vonn, and the leadership of Roman Stepek, the sky is the limit, and I look forward to further expanding the visibility of Head Sportswear.”
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Deckers Brands promotes Angela Ogbechie as chief supply chain officer

Image: Ugg Deckers Brands has announced the promotion of Angela Ogbechie to the newly created role of chief supply chain officer, effective June 24, 2022. Ogbechie, the company said in a release, will become a member of the executive leadership team, reporting directly to Dave Powers, chief executive officer and president of Deckers Brands. "Angela is perfectly suited for this new role, bringing the right mix of expertise and creativity from her 14 years working across all aspects of Deckers' global supply chain operations," said Powers, adding, “I'd like to thank David for his many years of service to Deckers, particularly his leadership in developing a world-class supply chain organisation over his past seven years as COO.” In her new role, Ogbechie will oversee all activities related to the global supply chain operations and logistics organisation. She has served in various operational roles at Deckers since 2008, most recently as SVP, global operations & supply chain strategy. The company added that Ogbechie's promotion follows David Lafitte's decision to step down from his role as chief operating officer to accept another opportunity, effective June 24, 2022. The supply chain functions currently reporting to Lafitte will now report to the chief supply chain officer, with other functions transitioning to the appropriate leaders on Deckers' executive team. "I am honoured to take on this new role, particularly at such an important time in the evolution of our supply chain and logistics network," added Ogbechie.
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