Farmers warn EU policy risks boosting fast fashion over natural fibres

Wool Credits: Pexels



A global coalition of farmers has raised alarm over the European Council's endorsement of the Product Environmental Footprint (PEF) methodology to underpin the forthcoming Green Claims Directive, arguing it will unfairly favour synthetic fibres and jeopardise their livelihoods.


In a letter seen by FashionUnited, the group claims the PEF system is "not adequate to assess the environmental performance of agricultural products" and will "enable greenwashing by fast fashion brands" that rely on cheap, fossil fuel-derived materials.


"If the EU introduces policy that favours synthetic fibres used by the fast fashion industry, the struggle for farmers will become even more severe," the letter states, warning they "may have no option but to give up on farming practices."


The farmers, who describe themselves as multi-generational "custodians of the land," say their sustainable practices such as supporting biodiversity and soil health are overlooked by the PEF criteria. They allege a "prohibitively high cost" for voting membership in the PEF technical secretariat has shut out farmer representation in favour of "large brands with ample funding."


The complaint comes as the Council is due to agree its position on the Green Claims Directive on June 17, just days after the EU pledged to make "fast fashion out of fashion" and support farmers grappling with mounting challenges posed by climate change.


"If the European Council agree on the General Approach to include the PEF methodology...the Green Claims Directive will accelerate the growth of fast fashion and put farmers' livelihoods at risk," the letter warns, urging a reconsideration of the current framework to ensure it "truly reflects the impact of natural fibres."


The issue highlights tensions between the EU's environmental and economic objectives as it seeks to regulate sustainability claims, with the potential to pit powerful apparel interests against the agricultural sector.


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OTB and Chalhoub Group establish joint venture for the Middle East

OTB Headquarters. Credits: Courtesy of Otb



Italian fashion group OTB SpA is planning to accelerate its expansion in the Middle East through a new partnership with Dubai-based retailer Chalhoub Group.


Both companies announced on Friday that they had agreed to form a joint venture to "significantly expand" the presence of the OTB luxury brands Jil Sander, Maison Margiela and Marni in the region. The group also owns labels such as Diesel and Viktor & Rolf.


As part of the partnership, more than 15 new stores are planned to be opened in the Middle East over the next five years, according to a statement. The focus is on "key markets" such as the United Arab Emirates, Qatar, Saudi Arabia and Kuwait.


OTB is already represented in the region with a Martin Margiela boutique in Dubai. The group's brands' products are also available in selected department stores and concept stores.


Renzo Rosso, the founder and chairman of OTB, praised the "strategic agreement" with the Chalhoub Group. The trading group is "the leading partner for luxury goods in the Middle East" and has "long and extensive knowledge of the region," Rosso emphasised.


The collaboration gives OTB the opportunity to present its brands in "one of the most interesting markets in the world today" and to drive its expansion.


This article originally appeared on FashionUnited.DE. Translation and edit by: Rachel Douglass.


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Walmart to relaunch youth-centric brand No Boundaries

Walmart launches No Boundaries fashion brand. Credits: Walmart.



US supermarket giant Walmart is set to reenter the young adult fashion space with the relaunch of its No Boundaries fashion brand.


The “two billion dollar” label is focused on providing young adult fashion through a “relevant and youthful assortment” all in what the company says are new fabrications, shapes and styles.


For the relaunch, Walmart has appointed an “expert design team with years of experience in creating products for the Gen Z customer”, making it the first time the retailer has hired dedicated designers for the brand itself.


It comes as part of a wider fashion-centric strategy at the company, through which it is aiming to build a cohesive brand speaking directly to a younger generation and next generation of shoppers.


In a release, Jen Jackson Brown, senior vice president of Walmart US, said: “There’s a huge opportunity for Walmart to reach a Gen Z customer with a brand that has both incredible style and unbelievable prices.


We have 145 million US customers shopping with us in stores and online each week, and the new No Boundaries brand is designed and marketed with the intention to reach this young adult audience by focusing on fit, quality, style and fabrics that resonate with them.”


No Boundaries will launch in both stores and on Walmart’s e-commerce platform on July 16 with an initial 130 pieces spanning women’s, men’s, intimates, shoes and accessories.


New categories being introduced for the first time include a sleepwear line and a “plant-based” bra pad, made from over 75 percent sugarcane, present in select bra styles.


In a further effort to reach Gen Z, the brand will also debut in digital format via virtual world Roblox, where a creator from the platform will help to curate a selection of No Boundaries looks allowing users to purchase both real-world pieces and their virtual twins.


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Clothing drives non-food sales for Tesco’s Q1

Tesco Credits: Tesco, Facebook



British supermarket giant Tesco has reported its financials for the 13 weeks ended May 25, 2024, in which it saw its like-for-like sales rise 3.6 percent across the UK and ROI to 14.3 million pounds.


While food sales continued to be the core driver for its overarching performance, with a quarterly growth of 5 percent, in the non-food category, clothing sales were the defining contribution.


As a whole, non-food sales were up 0.7 percent, with a “strong growth in clothing” being emphasised by Tesco.


In a release, chief executive, Ken Murphy, said that the strong volume growth across all of Tesco’s markets, including the UK, ROI and Central Europe, had been supported by “easing inflation”.


Murphy also noted that the company’s strong market share, which was up +52bps to 27.6 percent, had grown more than any other competitor in the past two years, with “customers switching to [Tesco] from other retailers” and shopping more often with more in their baskets.


He continued: “Following another strong quarter, we're pleased to reiterate our guidance for the full year, with sales trends in line with our expectations and the business well-positioned for the months ahead.”


For the 2024/25 financial year, Tesco said it is expecting retail adjusted operating profit of at least 2.8 billion pounds, while retail free cash flow is anticipated to be in the guidance range of 1.4 to 1.8 billion pounds.


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LVMH, Accor team up to develop Orient Express brand

LVMH Orient Express. Credits: LVMH



French hotel group Accor and luxury goods
giant LVMH said Thursday they had entered into a "strategic partnership" to
develop the fabled Orient Express brand.


LVMH will team up with Accor through "a strategic investment in the Orient
Express brand, in the company that will operate the future hotels and trains,
and in the entity that will own the two sailing ships", the companies said.


The first ship is currently under construction in France, and the two
groups will continue to search together for a third partner for the venture.


Accor acquired the Orient Express brand in 2022. Financial terms of
Thursday's deal were not publicised.


The legendary luxury train, the Orient Express, operated between 1883 and
1977 and linked Paris to Constantinople, then Istanbul.


"Orient Express is a legend ever since its creation 140 years ago,"
Sebastien Bazin, Accor group chairman and CEO, said in a statement.


"With LVMH today, we are opening a new chapter in this exciting journey,
with the ambition of exploring new horizons and embodying the audacity and
creative passion that drive our groups."


Bernard Arnault, LVMH group chairman and CEO, said the partnership aimed to
accelerate "the renewal of this travel icon".


"Orient Express epitomises the art of refined living and the audacity that
drives each of our Houses," he added in the statement.


Accor is planning to open luxury hotels under the Orient Express name in
Rome and Venice, and the launch of the first Orient Express sailing ship is
set for 2026.


LVMH already operates the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express luxury train
service through its subsidiary, Belmond.(AFP)


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Torrid improves Q1 profit, announces executive promotions

Torrid Credits: Facebook/Torrid



Torrid, women’s apparel, intimates, and accessories brand in North America, reported a 4.8 percent decrease in net sales to 279.8 million dollars, while comparable sales decreased 9 percent in the first quarter.


However, the company’s gross profit margin improved to 41.3 percent, up 360 bps. Net income rose to 12.2 million dollars or 12 cents and adjusted EBITDA reached 38.2 million dollars.


Torrid also announced the promotion of Hyon Park to chief operating officer, Ashlee Wheeler to chief planning officer and the retirement of Mark Mizicko, Torrid’s chief commercial officer.


Commenting on the financial results, Lisa Harper, Torrid’s chief executive officer, stated: “In the first quarter we delivered higher-than-expected adjusted EBITDA driven by strong gross margin expansion, while maintaining our focus on tightly controlling inventory levels.”


Torrid announces executive promotions




“I am thrilled to announce the well-deserved promotions of Hyon Park and Ashlee Wheeler, two exceptional leaders. Hyon was instrumental in stabilising and upgrading our systems supporting the growth of our business. Ashlee played a key role in driving improvements in our inventory management, as well as working to maximise our pricing strategy,” added Harper.


In addition to his responsibilities as chief technology officer and supply chain management, Park, the company said, will also have oversight of store operations.


Park joined Torrid in 2022 as chief technology officer from Belk, Inc. where he served as executive vice president, chief information officer. He has over 25 years of information technology and consulting experience, including 20 years with direct-to-consumer retail organisations such as Belk, Tailored Brands and Gymboree.


The company further said that as chief planning officer, Wheeler will lead all facets of planning, strategy, pricing & promotion, omni-channel fulfilment and analytics, with an emphasis on growth.


Wheeler has been with Torrid for 13 years in a variety of roles of increasing responsibility including merchandise planning, commercial planning, and inventory management. Prior to joining Torrid, she spent five years at Lucky Brand Jeans in merchandising planning.


Torrid announces Q2 and full year outlook




For the second quarter, the company expects net sales between 280 million dollars and 285 million dollars and adjusted EBITDA between 30 million dollars and 34 million dollars.


For the full year, Torrid expects net sales between 1.135 billion dollars and 1.155 billion dollars and adjusted EBITDA between 109 million dollars and 116 million dollars. The company plans to open 15 to 20 new Torrid stores, and close 10 to 15 stores.


In the first quarter, Torrid opened six stores and closed three stores and ended the period with 658 stores.


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OVS posts quarterly sales and profit growth

OVS Credits: OVS SpA



OVS net sales for the first quarter amounted to 352.2 million euros, up 4.7 percent driven by directly operated stores, where sales were up 5.1 percent.


After a year of decline in 2023, OVS said that the franchise channel resumed growth, with sales up 3.2 percent.


The OVS brand achieved sales growth mainly on a like-for-like basis. The Upim brand was supported by the like-for-like sales performance, the expansion of the sales network and the positive trend in the franchising business.


Commenting on the trading update, OVS chief executive officer, Stefano Beraldo, said: “The group’s main brands showed sales growth, despite delays in delivery caused by the Suez Canal crisis. This performance appears even more significant in view of the sharp increase recorded in the same period of the previous year.”


The company’s adjusted EBITDA in the quarter was 29.7 million euros, up by 2.2 million euros, while the EBITDA margin increased to 8.4 percent.


The company added that adjusted profit before tax rose to 10.1 million euros compared with 7.7 million euros in the first quarter of 2023, an improvement mainly driven by higher EBITDA.


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GFW24: Liverpool John Moores University, Manchester Fashion Institute present graduates

Liverpool John Moores University/London College of Design and Fashion Vietnam show at GFW24- Khuat Ngoc Ha's commended collection. Credits: image courtesy of the Graduate Fashion Foundation.



Final-year students of the fashion design programmes at three UK institutions, John Moores University in Liverpool, the London College for Design and Fashion Vietnam and the Manchester Fashion Institute at Manchester Metropolitan University, have presented their designs at Graduate Fashion Week London, which kicked off on Monday.


Graduate Fashion Week (GFW) is an event organised by non-profit organisation the Graduate Fashion Foundation (GFF) that aims to spotlight UK designers at the undergraduate level.


At Graduate Fashion Week, the outstanding designers from each school are selected after the graduate show in question, to then be invited to showcase their collections a second time at the ‘Best of GFW’ event. The best of GFW24 catwalk show will take place on Thursday, June 13, the last day of Graduate Fashion Week.


Liverpool John Moores University, Manchester Fashion Institute top graduates honoured at GFW24




At Tuesday's Liverpool John Moores University show, graduate Mai Le Lan was selected as the school’s top student. This catwalk show was a collaborative show with London College of Design and Fashion Vietnam. The ‘Highly Commended Student’ prize was awarded to Khuat Ngoc Ha.


Liverpool John Moores University/London College of Design and Fashion Vietnam show at GFW24- Mai Le Lan's winning collection. Credits: Graduate Fashion Foundation.



On Wednesday, the final-year students of the Manchester Fashion Institute (MFI) presented their collections. Amelia Perkins was selected as the winner. The highly commended award went to Freya Pearson.


Manchester Fashion Institute show at GFW24- Amelia Perkins' winning collection. Credits: Graduate Fashion Foundation.



Graduate Fashion Week runs until Thursday, June 13 at the Truman Brewery in East London. The final day of the event will feature the ‘GFW Collective Catwalk’ show and each of the participating universities will present its top undergraduate designers in the Best of GFW24 catwalk event.

Credits:" title="Manchester Fashion Institute show at GFW24- Freya Pearson's commended collection. Credits:"/>
Manchester Fashion Institute show at GFW24- Freya Pearson's commended collection. Credits: Credits: Graduate Fashion Foundation.


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University of East London showcases its emerging designers at LFW June

Hu Bing wearing a design by Danis Thapa at the University of East London graduate show. London Fashion Week June 2024. Credits: Ivan Gonzalez Photography via UEL.



In Pictures


With a show headlined by the iconic Chinese actor and model Hu Bing, who wore creations by undergraduate designers James Giddings and Danis Thapa, the University of East London (UEL) Emerging Designers showcase at the most recent edition of London Fashion Week (LFW) menswear was a testament to the creativity and innovative spirit of the institution’s students.


The most recent edition of LFW menswear which took place from June 7 to June 9 was reframed by organiser British Fashion Council (BFC) as a “cultural moment” and featured networking events, panel discussions and book clubs alongside the traditional shows and presentations.


The graduation collections presented at the UEL show revolved around the theme of human-centred design, emphasising the intersection of creativity and socio-political commentary. They highlighted innovative fashion that challenges contemporary socio-political narratives through themes of community and connection.


Winners Danis Thapa, Samantha Lange Zambrano and Mikaela Eshe Musson-Sheeheed, University of East London grduation show. LFW menswear June 2024. Credits: Ivan Gonzalez Photography via UEL.



Three students from the graduating class 2024 received awards. Danis Thapa was named Graduating Designer of the year 2024 for his ‘Contruxtion’ collection for which the young designer drew inspiration from his father’s construction work at Hong Kong's airport, reinterpreting traditional workwear with a contemporary twist. His designs merge historical influences with modern aesthetics, emphasising functionality and symbolism.


A look from Danis Thapa's winning collection, University of East London graduate fashion show. London Fashion Week menswear June 2024. Credits: Ivan Gonzalez Photography via UEL.



Mikaela Eshe’s ‘Homage’, one of the other stand-out collections, was rewarded with the Fashion Industry Award. In her collection, the designer paid tribute to Bermudian culture, integrating traditional and modern styles inspired by Gombey dancers.


A look from Mikaela Eshe's commended collection, University of East London graduate fashion show. London Fashion Week menswear June 2024. Credits: Ivan Gonzalez Photography via UEL.



University of East London graduates present designs at LFW, top students receive awards




The recipient of the ‘Outstanding Fashion Concept & Context’ award was Samantha Lange with her ‘Muñekita’ collection. Lang’s celebrated inclusivity and identity through her designs, drawing from her experiences as a young trans Latina woman.


A look from Samantha Lange's commended collection, University of East London graduate fashion show. London Fashion Week menswear June 2024. Credits: Ivan Gonzalez Photography via UEL.



Student Nneoma Cirillo’s ‘Compassion06’ highlighted environmental and social awareness, particularly focusing on the challenges faced in Nigeria’s Niger-Delta region, while Natalia Markouizou Charalampous' collection, “A Bumpy One,” depicted her transformative journey from Greece to the UK, using bold prints and contrasting fabrics to express her experiences.


Other notable collections included Aksana Belija’s ‘Expressionism Recollection,’ which blended military aesthetics with abstract expressionism to challenge social and political norms, and Divya Nakrani’s ‘Divine Consciousness,’ a collection that takes sustainability into account by featuring biodegradable textiles and natural dyes.


Beatrice Newman, head of the fashion department at UEL, commented on the students' achievements in a statement, saying: “We are so pleased that the British Fashion Council has recognised the University and included it as part of the official LFW schedule for the third time this year.


She continued: “This really was an exceptional experience for our students who got to present in front of so many high-profile stakeholders including fashion houses, buyers, stylists, and press.”


Hu Bing, who walked the runway for the second year running, emphasised the importance of supporting emerging designers. “I wish all the graduating designers the best of luck in their future careers, and I will be following their progress,” he said.


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Tips from WGSN: What fashion brands can do to combat consumer fatigue

Credits: Laura Chouette, Unsplash.



Feelings of burnout often plague consumers. Trend forecasting company WGSN describes in a study how fashion brands can alleviate these feelings.


According to WGSN, 65 percent of respondents said they felt exhausted by a more demanding work life and personal life, exacerbated by a variety of crises: rising cost of living, financial uncertainty, geopolitical tensions and environmental fears. Globally, 48 percent of people under 30 (Generation Z and Alpha) said they felt exhausted at work. In South Africa, 40 percent of working women report burnout.


This feeling leads consumers to yearn for a simpler life and to seek joy in small moments of pleasure and positivity that can combat negative feelings and provide a sense of comfort and security. Think of a sunrise or listening to your favourite song in a café.


Brands need to move, interest, spiritually inspire and celebrate people




In face of fatigue and anxiety, WGSN advises brands to inspire hope by creating products, experiences and spaces that build people up and show them the way to a better future. Here are some recommendations:



* Design branded products and experiences to evoke a specific emotion. Globally, twice as many consumers say they buy from brands that evoke specific emotions such as joy (49 percent) or delight (45 percent) compared to brands that focus only on sales (26 percent).

* With the growing demand for public spaces or social environments outside of the home or office, it will be important to create places where people can explore their niche identities or interests.

* The study on meta-spirituality shows how spirituality is moving into non-religious spaces as more and more people search for meaning and purpose in their daily lives. For example, rave culture (a lifestyle that combines a sense of community with values around parties and electronic music) offers other routes to fulfilment.






This article was originally published on FashionUnited.fr. Translated and edited from English by Simone Preuss.


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Cross-border fashion shopping booms as consumers hunt for deals

A woman shopping. Credits: Pexels



Rising prices are driving more consumers to shop across borders for fashion deals, with an appetite for discounted and unique items outweighing trust concerns, according to new research.


A survey of 2,000 consumers in the US and UK by e-commerce platform Nosto found that 70 percent of cross-border online shoppers are likely to purchase fashion and accessories from retailers abroad. The biggest lures are lower prices (cited by 41 percent) and a desire for unique or unusual items (33 percent).


Overall, 53 percent of respondents said surging inflation at home has made them more inclined to seek affordable purchases internationally. Alarmingly, 29 percent said they would even consider buying counterfeit brands overseas if they were cheaper - a figure that jumped to 45 percent among Gen Z shoppers aged 16-24.


"We're seeing increasing merchant interest in selling fashion cross-border as they chase growth opportunities," said Matthäus Bognar, Nosto's general manager for EMEA and APAC. "But a lack of consumer trust remains a hurdle."


Price-driven shoppers




The research highlights three areas retailers must focus on: providing clear information on taxes, duties and returns; offering localized social proof like customer reviews; and enhancing the online experience with local currencies and relevant product recommendations.


While 52 percent had made a cross-border purchase in the past year, 60 percent said they trust international retailers less than domestic ones. Concerns included difficulties returning items (50 percent), poor quality goods (47 percent) and counterfeits (46 percent).


Ironically, suspiciously low prices were the biggest deterrent, suggesting some appetite for discounts comes with quality guardrails. Chinese marketplaces like Temu and AliExpress are gaining traction, with 54 percent saying they would consider these players.


But ESG factors loom, with 67 percent rejecting retailers linked to forced labour and 49 percent fretting over emissions from long-distance shipping.


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Alumni HEC, Polytechnic Institute raise 2 million with artificial intelligence platform Veeton

The three founders of Veeton. Credits: Veeton



Three alumni of the Parisian institutions École Polytechnique (Paris Polytechnic Institute) and HEC School of Management have raised 2 million euros to develop Veeton, a start-up that uses artificial intelligence to produce visuals for fashion brand photo shoots.


The pre-seed fundraising was led by Founders Future and Armilar Venture Partners alongside Kima Ventures (Xavier Niel), ZeBox Ventures and business angels including Julien Chaumond (Hugging Face), Xavier Court (Veepee) and Thibaud Elzière (Fotolia).


The technology developed by the deeptech company generates large-scale photo shoots from a simple flat visual of a garment. The ‘Deeptech Plan’, launched by the French government in 2019, is operated by investment bank Bpifrance. Its ambition? To make France a leader in disruptive technological innovation, via startups.


It is mobilising 2.5 million euros to achieve three objectives: to increase the emergence of deeptech startups; to ensure their growth; and to develop and strengthen the ecosystem.


Start-up Veeton, founded in 2023 by Flore Lestrade, Christian Kotait and Tristan François, offers its customers the possibility of creating an infinite number of images reproducing all kinds of styles and shapes in just a few clicks. All of this at a production cost that is up to ten times lower than that of a traditional photo shoot, as per the news release.


Is Artificial Intelligence replacing human labour? It might




Following Bernard Arnault's presentation of the LVMH awards at Viva Tech, which rewarded FancyTech, a Chinese start-up that has developed video production software using generative Artificial Intelligence, this is the second time that we have heard talk of AI replacing technical teams in France (in this case models, photographers, touch-up artists, make-up artists, hairdressers, etc.) without even mentioning the matter (as if it didn't exist).


The stated aim of Veeton? To speed up the digitisation of retail chains (brands or retailers), at lower cost.


Commenting on the news in a statement, Flore Lestrade, CEO and co-founder of Veeton, said: "In just a few months, we have won the confidence of leading investors and key brands in the fashion industry to develop our generative AI solution."


"Veeton is a lever for creativity on a large scale for our partners, and we are very proud to offer a solution that combines performance for the brand and inclusion for its customers," she concludes.


This article was originally published on FashionUnited.FR. Translation and edit from French into English by Veerle Versteeg.


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Winners across accessories, illustration and more announced at GFW opening events

Kornit Catwalk. Credits: GFW / Gabrielle Thomas.



Amid the buzz of the already commenced menswear season, Graduate Fashion Week (GFW) has also entered the race with its first shows and events for its now 33rd edition.


The occasion kicked off with an awards ceremony on June 10, where winners across eight categories, including Accessories, Fashion Illustration and Fashion Innovation, were announced to by Graduate Fashion Foundation ambassador, Isabella Silvers.


Holly Evans of the Arts University Bournemouth was selected for the Fashion Illustrator Award, while Stephanie Daley from Nottingham Trent University received the Accessories Award supported by YKK.


The Dame Zandra Rhodes Fashion Textiles Award was given to Nottingham Trent University knitwear designer Aiden Davey, who said his work explored the harm smoking does with a line designed to instead encourage young people to feel socially confident.


Kornit Catwalk - Look by Rosie Brown. Credits: GFW / Gabrielle Thomas.



Other winners included Mahalia Ellis from Birmingham City University, who won the Face Excellence Prize; Nova Hammon-Hagan of University of the West England, the recipient of the Culture and Heritage Award in Design; akin to the award received by Kingston University’s Guessie O’Connor, albeit for Non-Design; and Charlotte Butler, from Birmingham City University, who won the New Business Award.


De Montfort University graduate Kira Uddin, meanwhile, was the recipient of the Fashion Innovation Award, an accolade that recognised her pursuit of creation in the menswear sector, in particular her final collection titled ‘Fake It Till You Make It’, through which she exhibited varying iterations of the ‘London Man’.


Kornit Catwalk - Looks by Shaojing Zhu. Credits: GFW / Gabrielle Thomas.



There were also winners announced from different institutions. These included Vanessa Amofa Baah of Birmingham City University; Shaojing Zhu of University of Derby; Mai Le Lan Y of Liverpool John Moores University; Charlotte Makinson of Sheffield Hallam University; and Bridget Calthrop of Nottingham Trent University.


A selection of looks from these winners are set to be featured at the upcoming ‘Best of GFW24’ event on June 13, where an overall Gold, Silver and Bronze Catwalk Award winner will be announced.


The final shows to take place last night were part of Kornit Digital Catwalk, which presented its own series of competition winners. The Gold Award went to Alfie Stevens, Natasha Owen took home the Silver Award and Rosie Brown, the Bronze Award.


Kornit Catwalk - Look by Alfie Stevens. Credits: GFW / Gabrielle Thomas.



Winners of the first GFW awards. Credits: GFW.


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For his AW24 collection, Jacquemus turns to New Wave film and Capri

In Pictures


Collection AW24 Credits: Jacquemus



Set to the music of Georges Delerue and held at the Casa Malaparte on the island of Capri, Simon Porte Jacquemus unveiled his latest autumn/winter 2024 collection, a spectacle that marked a 15 year anniversary for his eponymous French brand.


For the line, the designer drew inspiration from the iconic New Wave film ‘Contempt’, directed by the master of the genre, Jean-Luc Godard. As such, there were a variety of nods to the production, particularly in the use of yellow, the colour of an iconic dressing gown worn by actress Brigitte Bardot in the film, when she was beginning to despise her companion.


While minimalist dresses, Bermuda shorts, espadrilles, a head scarf and sunglasses also appeared in the famed hue, it was a coat that bore resemblance to the dressing gown format that truly evoked the film, draped below the shoulders of Jacquemus’ model.


Collection AW24 Credits: Jacquemus



Collection AW24 Credits: Jacquemus



Collection AW24 Credits: Jacquemus



For the rest of the collection, Jacquemus largely departed from this cinematic inspiration via silhouettes, some made in fluid jerseys with architectural shapes, a recurring element of the designer’s past collections. This was evidenced in an exaggerated A-line skirt, trapeze dress, Greek drapes, ruffled bustier, spectacular necklines, etc.


Collection AW24 Credits: Jacquemus



As always, the designer offered a palette of bright colours that elicited warm sand and the Mediterranean Sea. Yet it was a turquoise tone, a remarkable entry into the season, that will likely be the most talked about. Appearing in the form of a long fitted dress in transparent stretch silk, a slit on the side of a cascading train, the piece was also worn in the front row by the singer Dua Lipa (an image of whom is making rounds on social media). Already available for pre-order on the Jacquemus website at 990 euros, the dress could be the brand’s ‘it’ item of the summer.


Collection AW24 Credits: Jacquemus



Women, men, Italy and another way of being part of fashion




Many celebrities naturally responded "yes" to Jacquemus’ invitation to attend the event, women (Adèle Exarchopoulos, Gwyneth Paltrow, Laetitia Casta) and men (François Civil, Arón Piper), alike.


It must be said that Jacquemus' approach is enough to arouse the enthusiasm of artists, as his way of thinking outside the box (in fashion week shows, unique locations and see-now-buy-now collections) stimulates ferocious appetites. In this regard, he indeed bears resemblance to the Swiss director, Godard, who also saw himself as a researcher, and to whom it is impossible not to refer among a place such as Capri.


Jenny (BlackPink) walks for Jacquemus at Casa Malaparte Credits: Jacquemus



It is particularly in Jacquemus’ menswear proposal of the show, which celebrates the brand's 15th anniversary, that the designer pushes his artistic approach further with entirely zebra-print looks, colour blocking (green, navy, or Klein blue), loose Bermuda shorts with front pleats, tank tops, boat necks, airy dark denim pants or striped polo shirts.


Collection AW24 Credits: Jacquemus



Collection AW24 Credits: Jacquemus



Collection AW24 Credits: Jacquemus



Le Spiaggia and the Bombola: Two new bags by Jacquemus




This, however, could not overshadow the bags, a category in which the brand has found success. After the Chiquito and the Bambino, now came the Spiaggia (the ‘beach’ in Italian), a flat round basket bag in woven raffia, made in Madagascar, sold for 590 euros and available for immediate delivery. It was joined by the Bombola, an asymmetrical bucket bag, punctuated by a large sculpted magnetic ring, in black cowhide, sand or leopard jacquard colours.


Spagga Bag Credits: Jacquemus



Bombola Bag Credits: Jacquemus



On the topic of accessories, a notably strong segment for high-end brands, the Capri cat-eye rectangular sunglasses could also not be forgotten, once again referencing Bardot herself in her role as Camille, resembling another look she wore in ‘Contempt’ that was styled with a Tunisian fadhila dress. This piece also found a twin on the runway, minus the traditional collar and, on this occasion, worn by a man as a unisex sleeveless undershirt.


Fadhila AW24 Credits: Jacquemus



So, the question stands: could references to a cult film lead to a cult collection for Jacquemus? Ultimately, it is sales that will have the final world. Until then, business is business.


This article originally appeared on FashionUnited.FR. Translation and edit by: Rachel Douglass.


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Amorepacific appoints new CEO for North America

Beauty


Profile image of Giovanni Valentini, as chief executive for North America at Amorepacific Credits: Amorepacific



Korea's leading beauty company, Amorepacific, has appointed Giovanni Valentini as chief executive for North America to further accelerate growth in the region.


Valentini, an industry veteran with experience at L'Oréal and Unilever, has been tasked with spearheading the group's strategic vision, including strengthening the region's organisational structure, optimising operations, and championing the business objectives of Laneige, Innisfree, and Sulwhasoo, as well as new-to-market brands.


He will also assume global brand holder responsibility for US-based brand Tata Harper Skincare, which was acquired by Amorepacific in 2022.


Valentini was formerly general manager of Lancôme USA within L'Oréal's Luxe Division and is described as a seasoned beauty veteran with experience from prior leadership roles with Armani Beauty, Kiehl's, and Unilever brands across different geographies.


In recent years, Amorepacific's North American business has reported substantial growth. In 2023, the company's North American sales surged by 58 percent compared to the previous year, and the region's share of Amorepacific's international business expanded from 5.5 percent in 2021 to 20.5 percent in 2023.


With Valentini at the helm, Amorepacific is looking to elevate its North American business further with a focus on expanding the customer base for its core brands – Laneige, Innisfree, Sulwhasoo, and Tata Harper, while continuing to diversify brand offerings in the US and Canada.


In addition, Amorepacific has assigned Robin Na, the former head of North America, to lead the business in Japan, to continue broadening its customer base in the region.


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Michael Kors introduces AI-powered retail assistant to website

Michael Kors store in Vienna, Austria. Credits: Michael Kors.



In what it described as the “next-generation” of retail assistant, Michael Kors has unveiled a new ‘Shopping Muse’ powered by artificial intelligence (AI) to aid customers on its US website.


In partnership with Mastercard-owned Dynamic Yield, the Shopping Muse looks to recreate the in-store experience online by “translating consumers’ colloquial language into tailored product recommendations” in order to cater to their needs based on demonstrated behaviours.


Its integration into the brand’s website follows initial tests by Dynamic Yield that said the feature had generated around a 15 to 20 percent higher conversion rate than traditional search queries.


Shopping Muse had first launched in late 2023 and was offered to fashion retailers via early access before expanding its reach to furniture retailers.


In a release, Dynamic Yield’s CEO, Ori Bauer, said: “As a trailblazer in ready-to-wear fashion, Michael Kors is a perfect example of how to put our ready-to-use technology to use.


“Shopping Muse is helping translate the signature Michael Kors service to the digital world, delivering a satisfying shopping experience as singular and impactful as the brand’s aesthetic.”


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White Stuff targeting the US and expanding wholesale business

White Stuff SS24 collection Credits: White Stuff



British fashion and lifestyle brand White Stuff is launching in the US this summer as it looks to step up its international expansion plans and double the size of its wholesale business over the next four years.


In a statement, White Stuff said it will be rolling out this month through several wholesale retail partners in seven US states, Illinois, Indiana, Ohio, Michigan, Iowa, Wisconsin and Minnesota.


Around 18 small and medium-sized independent US retailers will feature a curated selection of White Stuff’s womenswear, including popular products such as its ‘Sophie’ and ‘Annie’ shirts, ‘Rua’ dresses and ‘Nelly’ tees.


The move follows a successful trial in two states, Michigan and Illinois, with Chicago-based wholesale partner Showroom Code, which it said, “delivered strong sales and positive feedback from customers”.


White Stuff utilising wholesale partnerships to launch in the US




White Stuff SS24 collection Credits: White Stuff



By keeping the expansion small, White Stuff said it would allow the company to “test and learn,” with the ambition to grow the product offering to include menswear, as well as expanding into major department stores across the country.


White Stuff’s wholesale business has enabled the brand to extend its reach to a wider customer base, partnering with local independent retailers that pre-order stock directly from White Stuff to sell through their own stores and channels. This model it states allows it to test its product in new markets, without significant operational investment.


Currently, its wholesale business represents around 8 percent of the brand’s overall sales, with 410 existing partnerships in the UK, Ireland, France, Germany, the Netherlands, Czech Republic, Greece, Canada and New Zealand.


White Stuff SS24 collection Credits: White Stuff



The past year has seen record sales for wholesale at White Stuff, and the company is now targeting doubling the size of its wholesale business over the next 4 years, as part of its ongoing transformation strategy to modernise the brand, acquire new customers and “become more relevant to more people”.


Jo Jenkins, chief executive at White Stuff, said: “The US is a big market with a meaningful opportunity for a distinctive British brand like ours, and we’re confident that our thoughtfully created designs in quality fabrics will resonate with US customers across the pond.


“Our wholesale business has helped us learn and adapt to new markets like Canada, New Zealand and the Czech Republic in the past few years and has significant potential in the US. As we continue to scale White Stuff into an internationally recognised fashion and lifestyle brand, we see wholesale playing a bigger role in our strategy.”


Established in 1985, White Stuff is a multi-channel lifestyle brand with 114 shops and 46 concessions in the UK, within John Lewis, Marks & Spencer and other independents. It also has six shops and 22 concessions in both Germany and Belgium and sells internationally via its website and has 575 wholesale stockists (165 in the UK and Ireland and 410 international wholesale stockists).


Last week, White Stuff expanded its partnership with British retailer Marks & Spencer by launching into 10 additional UK locations, doubling its presence to 20 stores.


White Stuff SS24 collection Credits: White Stuff


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Graduate Fashion Week 2024 opens in London

GFW Designer - Xinrui Wang, Birmingham City University, Photographer - Sam Thacker. Art Creative Director - Ester Liu, Stylist -Jordan Ricketts Credits: GFW 2024



The 32nd Graduate Fashion Week begins today, June 10 in London, where students from across the UK will showcase their final-year collections across 26 different fashion disciplines.


The four-day event, organised by charitable organisation the Graduate Fashion Foundation is taking place at The Old Truman Brewery in East London and marks the largest platform in the world for BA fashion talent.


From June 10 to 13, GFW will showcase the freshest upcoming stars in design, creative direction, marketing, communication, photography, illustration and all aspects of the modern fashion business.


Alongside catwalk shows from GFW member universities, including Liverpool John Moores, Manchester Fashion Institute and University for the Creative Arts, the annual event also offers industry professionals the opportunity to scout up-and-coming talent in the fashion space ahead of their graduation from university.


In addition, GFW 2024 has a series of talks and masterclasses, including topics such as how to start a viral fashion brand, understanding generative AI, what fashion recruiters are looking for, and how graduates can turn their ideas into reality. There are discussions on how to be part of the circular economy, mental health, and protecting work from copycats.


Throughout the event, GFW will also present awards to the most promising graduates, spanning categories such as innovation and sustainability, alongside disciplines across textile design, styling and creative direction.


Catwalk schedule for GFW 2024




June 10




10:30 - Birmingham City University and the University of Derby Catwalk


12:45 - Liverpool John Moores University and the London College for Design & Fashion, Vietnam Catwalk


15:00 - Sheffield Hallam University Catwalk


17:30 - Nottingham Trent University Catwalk


19:45 - Kornit Digital Catwalk & Drinks Reception


June 11




10:30 - Winchester School of Art Catwalk


12:45 - Arts University Bournemouth and Bath Spa University Catwalk


15:00 - De Montfort University Catwalk


17:30 - Manchester Fashion Institute at Manchester Metropolitan University Catwalk


19:45 - University for the Creative Arts Catwalk


June 12




10:30 - GFW International Catwalk


13:00 - University of Central Lancashire and Norwich University of the Arts Catwalk


16:30 - Northumbria University Presentation


June 13




11:30 - GFW Collective Catwalk


19:00 - Best of GFW24 Catwalk


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Justine de Riedmatten takes home first-ever Numéro Netherlands Award at AFA graduation show

Justine de Riedmatten accepts the first-ever Numéro Netherlands award on June 7, 2024. Credits: FashionUnited



Amsterdam Fashion Academy (AFA) graduate Justine de Riedmatten took home the Numéro Netherlands Award on Friday, June 7. The new award was presented on the second floor of the auditorium at the H'Art Museum in Amsterdam, after the AFA final fashion show.


De Riedmatten showed her graduation collection ‘Homofungatic’, which explores various facets of the human condition. The collection features voluminous shapes, elongated strips of fabric and balls.


The colour palette of the collection consists mainly of earth tones. Homofungatic celebrates the cycle of the human body, which is ‘a bold step towards a harmonious union with nature and a timeless celebration of life, decay and rebirth’, as per Amsterdam Fashion Academy.


A new award for fashion graduates: Amsterdam Fashion Academy teams up with Numéro Netherlands




The designer has been honoured with the Numéro Netherlands Award and also won an interview in Numéro magazine.


The Numéro Netherlands Award is an award that has been presented for the first time this year. The award came about thanks to a collaboration between Amsterdam Fashion Academy and the magazine Numéro Netherlands, which describes itself as ‘a growing progressive movement’ that publishes twice a year on fashion, art and design.


This article was originally published on FashionUnited.NL. Translation and edit from Dutch into English by Veerle Versteeg


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Greenwashing, ultra fast fashion slowing down progress on eliminating fossil fuels from textiles, finds new report

Many brands are still relying on synthetic fabrics like polyester, derived from petroleum, despite better alternatives being available. Credits: FashionUnited



The good news is that fashion companies are making progress when it comes to reducing emissions, phasing out coal and transitioning to renewable energy. The bad news is that greenwashing and ultra fast fashion are undermining these efforts. These are the findings of the “2024 Clean Energy Close Up” report by environmental advocacy group Stand.earth. At the end of last year, the organisation had highlighted the continued reliance of biomass by the fashion industry and the inherent risks and harms associated with using non-fossilised, biodegradable material.


In the new report, Stand.earth provides an in-depth analysis of the tangible progress of eleven of the most influential global fashion brands, specifically their progress in reducing emissions, phasing out coal and transitioning to renewable energy. The organisation measured their performance against the runway to an equitable fossil fuel phase-out by 2030, drawing on data shared publicly by manufacturers in their supply chains.


Among the eleven brands analysed in the report (Adidas, Fast Retailing, Gap, H&M, Inditex, Levi Strauss, Lululemon, Nike, Puma, Shein and VF Corporation), the majority scored less than 25 of 100 total possible points, “demonstrating an alarming lack of progress and action toward decarbonisation“ according to Stand.earth. 


Best score is a fail - only 59 out of 100 points




While H&M, Puma and Nike earned the highest scores with 59, 51 and 46.5, respectively, only Levi’s, Puma and H&M are currently on track to reduce manufacturing emissions by at least 55 percent by 2030 compared to 2018 levels, despite that target being only six years away (2030).


Shein, Fast Retailing, Lululemon and Inditex scored the lowest with 2.5, 14, 16 and 16, respectively. “Among the most concerning findings in the report is that fast-fashion giant Shein, which earned a 2.5/100 score, increased its absolute emissions by nearly 50 percent in just one year – now emitting more pollution annually than the nation of Paraguay. The e-retailer’s staggering growth alone threatens to undermine decarbonisation progress made by more traditional brands,“ warns the report.


In the mid-range are Levi Strauss, Adidas, Gap and VF Corp with a score of 37.5, 33.5, 20.5 and 20, respectively. While Puma and Nike scored highest on transparency among the eleven brands, Shein scored “0” and Inditex very low.


Performance of the 11 companies analysed by Stand.earth in its "2024 Clean Energy Close Up" Credits: Stand.earth



Greenwashing is further complicating the clean energy transition with some brands using marketing tactics to disguise pollution or distracting consumers away from their climate action accountability. Just a few week ago, the Canadian Competition Bureau announced that it officially opened an inquiry into Lululemon, following a complaint filed by Stand.earth criticising that the brand uses their ‘Be Planet’ campaign to market themselves environmentally concerned while having doubled carbon pollution.


“The good news is that progress is happening. The bad news is that that progress is being undermined by dangerous pollution from ultra-fast fashion, and the growing threat of greenwashing. Simply put, most brands are not yet on track to decarbonise and many are heading in the wrong direction, and no matter the price printed on the tag, people and the planet are left to pay the true costs. These big players in the fashion industry must show leadership by rapidly phasing out fossil fuels and investing in tangible, renewable energy solutions,” commented Rachel Kitchin, senior corporate climate campaigner at Stand.earth and the report’s lead author, in a press release.


The “Clean Energy Close Up” builds on the foundation of Stand.earth’s Fossil Free Fashion Scorecard, which for the past several years has provided a detailed evaluation of fashion brands’ sustainability initiatives on energy, materials, circularity and shipping.


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LVMH names Cécile Cabanis as deputy finance director

Cécile Cabanis Credits: LVMH



LVMH has appointed Cécile Cabanis as deputy finance director, who will be reporting to Jean-Jacques Guiony, the group’s chief financial officer.


The company said in a statement that Guiony will prepare the progressive handover of his responsibilities to Cabanis as part of the succession planning. Guiony’s new responsibilities will be announced in due time. Cabanis will also become a member of the LVMH executive committee.


The company added that she brings a track record with leading groups in a range of key finance positions, in particular mergers and acquisitions and financial communications.


Throughout her 17-year career within the Danone Group, she was appointed in 2015 as chief financial officer, in charge of finance, strategy, information systems, purchasing and sustainability. Cabanis was a member of the Danone executive committee and board of directors.


For the past three years, LVMH said, Cabanis has been deputy chief executive officer of Tikehau Capital.


Cabanis began her career in 1995 at L'Oréal in South Africa. In 2000, she joined Orange as director of mergers and acquisitions before joining the Danone Group in 2004.


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