Friday, December 10, 2021

Loewe reopens Avenue Montaigne store

Image: lvmh.com Loewe has reopened its store on Avenue Montaigne, bringing more artwork into its retail space. For its new store, Loewe has focused on a sustainable design and a clean style. The black façade contrasts with intimate spaces bathed in natural light. The interior design features an alliance of materials, including a Georgian-style spiral staircase made from Campaspero stone at the center of the space. Concrete floors and walls contrast with handmade maple ceiling slats. Central product displays built from concrete, glass, and wood echo podiums in clay, concrete, burnt wood, and Spanish colored ceramic. Art became a central part of the reopened stores interiors. Artists featured include painter Walter Price, whose practice bridges figuration and abstraction, sculptor Henry Moore, Pablo Picasso, and British artist Hilary Lloyd, whose practice centers on videos. Also featured in the store are creations from artists honored by the Loewe Foundation Craft Prize. Surface Tactility 11 by Genta Ishizuka and a wooden bench by Jim Partridge and Liz Walmsley, respectively winner and finalists of the 2019 edition, are both prominently displayed. The store showcases the full range of Loewe men’s and women’s ready-to-wear and accessories.
http://dlvr.it/SF88cW

Bedrock Manufacturing Co. names new CEO

Image: PR Newswire Bedrock Manufacturing Company, the parent of Shinola and Filson, has named Awenate Cobbina as its new CEO, effective January 1, 2022. Cobbina was already involved with BMC as a board member, so this is an expansion of his duties. In his new role, Cobbina will drive overall day-to-day business activities during a period when Shinola and Filson are both poised for growth, as well as overseeing business development. “Awenate has become an active member of the BMC, Shinola and Filson leadership teams during the course of this year,” Tom Kartsotis, BMC’s founder, said in a statement. “In recent months, Cobbina has joined BMC’s board of directors and worked closely with leadership to begin developing a blueprint for future growth.” “The dynamic nature of our brands and businesses, combined with realities we have faced due to the pandemic, has brought us to a very exciting moment,” Kartsotis said in a statement. “The overall premise behind each of our brands has become stronger as we have repositioned everything about our Company during recent quarters. I believe the relevance of each of our businesses is stronger than ever. Awenate’s capabilities are exactly what we need to make the most of the investments that have been made over time. Even more exciting is the fact that we have assembled a management team that is well prepared to drive both shareholder and community value in unison.” Kartsotis will continue to actively guide BMC in his role as founder. He will work closely with Cobbina and his leadership team to fuel the company’s growth. Immediately after joining Bedrock Group LP, the leading investor in BMC, earlier this year, Cobbina led operations as a member of the Biden-Harris Transition’s executive leadership team. He joined the Transition from Pistons Sports & Entertainment and the Detroit Pistons, where he served as vice president of public and business affairs and executive director of the Detroit Pistons Foundation. He was a vital member of a leadership team that moved the Pistons from Auburn Hills to Detroit in 2017. Cobbina currently serves as the chairman of the Michigan Economic Development Corporation’s (MEDC) Executive Committee, Michigan’s public-private partnership for job creation and economic development. He was appointed to this role by Governor Gretchen Whitmer in 2019. Before his time at the Pistons, he served almost six years in the Obama White House as a political appointee, including roles in Legislative Affairs, Management and Budget, and the Chief of Staff’s Office where Cobbina served as special assistant to the President and policy advisor to the Office of the Chief of Staff. In 2018, he was the deputy director of the Whitmer-Gilchrist Transition. “I am very honored to be offered the BMC CEO position and am excited to play a role in the company’s journey. I see a bright future for all of the BMC companies and look forward to embracing the challenges and opportunities ahead as our businesses evolve, grow, and create impact on the communities in which we operate,” Awenate said in a statement. “The senior leaders at BMC, Shinola and Filson, including our newly hired BMC CFO, Michele Santana, Shannon Washburn in Detroit, Paolo Corinaldesi in Seattle, and their teams, have knowledge specific to the industries that we operate in, experience both growing companies and managing large companies, and the determination to build businesses that make our employees, customers and the communities that we are a part of proud.”
http://dlvr.it/SF79wy

Belstaff names Jodie Harrison as global brand director

Image: Sarah-Louise Marks London-based heritage brand Belstaff has appointed Jodie Harrison to the newly created role of global brand director. Harrison, former chief membership officer at Soho House, will join Belstaff in January 2022 and report directly to chief executive Fran Millar, who took up the helm at the brand in October 2020. Before Soho House, Harrison was editorial director at Mr Porter and vice president of creative and content at Moda Operandi in New York, before she relocated back to the UK in early 2020 to set up her brand consultancy, Fell and Scar. In her new role as global brand director, Harrison will oversee all brand touch-points, from content and art direction to paid marketing, brand and wholesale partnerships, as well as social media. Commenting on the appointment, Millar said in a statement: “From the start of my journey with Belstaff, I knew we were going to need someone different to the norm to help us change the way we connect with our customers and to reshape how we show up in the world. “Jodie’s breadth of experience, attitude to change and willingness to challenge conventions mean she is exactly what we need as a brand right now. Jodie sees and understands where we want to go – I’m delighted she has joined Belstaff at such a pivotal moment. I am excited to work with her as we create a future that surpasses our incredible past.” Harrison added: “We have an incredible opportunity on our hands. I’ve admired Belstaff from afar my whole career, working with them during my tenures at GQ and Mr Porter. I’ve seen the brand go through many different iterations and always wanted an opportunity to craft a bold, clear and consistent chapter for this great British brand with an enviable legacy. There are so many stories we have never told. So many ways for us to move forward. The time is now.”
http://dlvr.it/SF6bx5

Rent the Runway falls in trading

Image: Rent the Runway, Facebook Rent the Runway fell in trading after their revenue projections fell short of estimates in their first quarterly earnings since launching their IPO. Investors are proving to be skeptical of the clothing rental company. Rent the Runway saw revenues of 63.3 million dollars in their fourth quarter, below the estimate of 66.2 million dollars that was compiled by Bloomberg analysts. However, the company exceeded projections in the third quarter. Investors are questioning Rent the Runway’s profitability after the company reported a net loss of 88 million dollars in the quarter ending October 31. Almost 50 percent of the loss was attributed to non-recurring items. Rent the Runway did take a major hit from the pandemic, as customers had little to nowhere to really wear clothes and were wary of wearing anything that was borrowed. For the third fiscal quarter, Rent the Runway reported 116,833 active subscribers, which is 87 percent of what they had two years ago pre-pandemic. However, that is 78 percent higher compared to last year, proving that customers are returning to the service and they are gaining new customers. Active and paused subscribers totaled 150,075, surpassing pre-Covid figures. The stock isn’t doing particularly strong since its launch. It has declined 45 percent since the October 26 IPO launch.
http://dlvr.it/SF63ZV

Thursday, December 9, 2021

63 Sustainability efforts of the fashion industry in November 2021

Image: YY Nation     November was characterised by important events like COP26 but there were also collaboration initiatives galore: between brands, between brands and material innovators, between brands and platforms and many more - the sky seemed the limit this month. Resale is still hot as many new ventures prove. Read on as FashionUnited highlights 63 sustainable initiatives in November 2021.        Cooperation & Innovation   RGE formalises two partnerships to advance sustainable fashion   Image: RGE   RGE has formalised two partnerships in Singapore aimed at advancing sustainable fashion. The first partnership is with the Textile and Fashion Federation (TaFF). The strategic partnership is set to last 3 years, and will advocate for sustainable industry practices in Singapore and the regions around it. The partnership looks to do so through education, programme implementation and research. The second is a five year collaboration with Nanyang Technological University in Singapore, which will research innovation in textile recycling technology throughout the duration of the partnership.       Read more     Related news: * Retailers and landlords come together to drive greener property * Anya Hindmarch partners with supermarkets on recycled shopping bag * Crocs and ThredUp launch Clean Out program * Chipotle launches collaboration with Carhartt * Etro launches limited capsule in collaboration with Harris Reed Pangaia launches hemp denim collection in partnership with Unspun   Image: Pangaia Facebook   For its second denim release, Pangaia has introduced the new material Panhemp to its line of eco-friendly jeans and jackets.Made using rain-fed hemp and organic cotton, the plant-based fabric is available in four genderless styles via the brand’s website. Pieces included in the collection were designed using the natural indigo dye from an Indigofera plant, with the production executed in collaboration with the sustainably conscious denim mill Orta, based in Turkey.     Read more   Related news: * Very boosts sustainable denim production with manufacturing partnership * Ganni partners with Infinited Fiber * LVMH Métiers d’Art and SMX collaborate on material traceability * Superdry partners with Versarien on enhanced garment production * Ganni partners with clothing alteration app Sojo * Dylon Dyes launches first-ever capsule collection   The British Fashion Council hosts Great Fashion For Climate Action showcase at COP26   Image: British Fashion Council   On November 9, the Great Britain and Northern Ireland Campaign partnered with the British Fashion Council to host the Great Fashion for Climate Action showcase at COP26. A display of UK innovation, a number of designers were featured including those from Burberry, Phoebe English and Stella McCartney. Aimed at exhibiting the UK’s commitment to climate change through fashion innovation, the various designers used their products to encourage climate action.       Read more     Related news: * Phoebe English among fashion signatories calling COP26 to climate action * Stella McCartney unveils ‘Future of Fashion’ exhibition at COP26 * Burberry announces biodiversity strategy at COP26 * Ralph Lauren makes number of commitments supporting COP26 * Offsetting or reducing: What is climate neutrality and how to achieve it?   Brands & Retailers Mulberry launches its lowest carbon collection   Image: Mulberry British heritage brand Mulberry has unveiled a new collection of bags created using the world’s lowest carbon leather in partnership with Muirhead, a member of the Scottish Leather Group. The limited-edition capsule is described by the brand as its “lowest carbon” collection to date and includes the soft small Amberley Satchel, which has been “updated with a holistic approach to sustainability”.       Read more:   Related news: * Stella McCartney celebrates The Beatles with capsule collection * House of Dagmar launches exclusive capsule collection for Zalando * Ferragamo launches 300-piece upcycled collection Icon-Up * Asda to drop exclusive pre-loved Gucci pieces * The RealReal launches upcycled ReCollection 02   Sustainable brand Wvn weaves together certified materials, fair factories and organic chic   Image: Wvn Sustainable clothing may be all the rage at the moment but is not easy to produce as established sustainability pioneers can vouch for. Entrepreneur Kate Fisher spent three decades building strong relationships with fair trade factories and heritage artisans in the heart of India and Nepal to maintain the quality, environmentally friendly and ethical production of her clothes. In August 2021, Fisher launched her elevated line, Wvn, the newest evolution in her sustainable fashion journey. FashionUnited spoke with Fisher, founder of Certified B Corporation Synergy Organic Clothing and Wvn (pronounced ‘Woven’).      Read more   Related news: * Dear Frances debuts responsibly made vegan collection * Sockshop launches new recycled sock brand Tore * Interview with co-founders of sustainable startup Folde Circular business models offer a 700 billion US dollar opportunity   Image: Daria Shevtsova / Pexels New research from the Ellen MacArthur Foundation reveals that circular business models, in sectors such as rental and resale, have the potential to grow from 3.5 percent of the global fashion market today to 23 percent by 2030, representing a 700 billion US dollar opportunity. Currently, the rental, resale, repair, and remaking sectors are valued at more than 73 billion US dollars, with the foundation expecting these circular business models to continue to grow as customers become increasingly motivated by affordability, convenience, and environmental awareness.     Read more     Related news: * Google partners with Stella McCartney on responsible sourcing platform * John Lewis launches million pound challenge for circular future * Primark launches circular denim collection for Ellen MacArthur Foundation’s redesign project * H&M announces Innovation Circular Design Story collection * Global Fashion Agenda releases Scaling Circularity report * Asos releases circular design guidebook with Centre for Sustainable Fashion   EcofashionCorp launches blockchain powered platform to provide transparency   Image: Ecofashion Corp Social purpose corporation EcofashionCorp has launched a blockchain powered platform in order to provide transparency about its products life cycles. The company will facilitate, digitize and share value chain steps. The information will be accessible through a blockchain and AI-based traceability platform, allowing customers full product transparency.       Read more     Related news: * New platform for sustainable outdoor clothing supports environment through D2C model * TrusTrace launches traceability ecosystem to improve fashion industry transparency USSR cult sneakers Komrads celebrate vegan comeback   Image: Komrads   Once a symbol of anti-capitalism, Komrads sneakers were developed in Soviet times by the Czech Boot Company in the 1950s as a response to the shoe revolution in the West, more specifically as the East’s version of the Converse All Stars. Komrads soon achieved cult status, but would have been forgotten when production ceased in 2009 due to an industry slump. Enter Belgian couple Greet Goegebuer and Mark Vandevelde who revived them in 2015, as a sustainable version made from recycled cotton.     Read more     Related news: * YY Nation releases “lowest carbon footprint sneaker in the world” * Levi’s releases eco-conscious boot with The Woolmark Company * On to turn carbon emissions into running shoes Otrium launches into the US   Image: Otrium Facebook End-of-season fashion marketplace Otrium has announced its expansion into the US. The marketplace, which specialises in selling excess inventory, will launch in the US with brands including Adam Lippes, Belstaff, Cynthia Rowley, Faherty and Reiss. Many of the brands on its European platform, including Karl Lagerfeld and Asics, will arrive later.       Read more     Related news: * Kering Eyewear launches sustainability blockchain platform * Diesel joins the resale market with ‘Second Hand’ project * Axel Arigato to launch resell platform, Xchange * Oscar de la Renta dives into resale * Raeburn partners on launch of re-commerce store, Responsible   Sézane awarded B Corp certification   Image: Sézane; Sézane has become one of the first French fashion brands to receive B Corp certification highlighting its commitment to social and environmental performance. The certification reinforces Sézane’s sustainable approach to fashion, from its choice of production methods, raw materials and working conditions, to its environmental impact, such as reducing its delivery and packaging footprint.       Read more     Related news: * Depop achieves climate-neutral certification * Pentland Brands wants to be net-zero by 2032 * Canada Goose achieves responsible down certification * Deckers sets “science-based” targets focused on reducing greenhouse gas emissions * Kao achieves climate-neutral operations in the UK * Moncler tops Dow Jones Sustainability Indices * Valentino unveils new packaging embracing sustainability     Companies, Education, Events & Awards A suit of banana fibres: ‘Grow’ exhibition at Fashion for Good shows a future with biomaterials     Image: Alina Krasieva via Fashion for Good   Biomaterials are a major growth market, but a lot is still unclear. For example, what exactly is meant by a biomaterial? Are all biomaterials automatically sustainable? What can you do with it, and what can you not (yet) do with it? These questions are addressed in the ‘Grow’ exhibition, which opens today in the Fashion for Good museum on Rokin in Amsterdam. FashionUnited already got a tour.      Read more     Related news: * Red carpet highlights from the Fashion Awards 2021 * Kipling launches sustainable capsule as part of Redress Design Award * Textile Exchange reveals winners of Ryan Young Climate+ Awards * Red Carpet Green Dress announces design winners * Great British Sewing Bee winner Serena Baker presents at Sustainable Fashion Festival * Fashion Schools: Where to Explore Sustainable Fashion   Also read:   * Authentic conversation lacking in fashion industry, says Vestoj editor * FashionUnited’s need-to-know topics today: Fashion repair and resale * ”Adjustments on the part of the consumer are also needed”: Textile logistics Professor Markus Muschkiet on supply chain sustainability * 66 Sustainability efforts of the fashion industry in October 2021 Podcasts: * Euromonitor International on sustainability in fashion * Crash Course Fashion talks to Julia Gall about greenwashing * Shilpa Shah discusses purpose versus profit * Elizabeth Cline and Marizia Lanfranchi on increasing data literacy to make sustainable decisions * Crash Course Fashion interviews Jake Disraeli on the growing resale market * Christopher Raeburn, Design Driven by Reimagination * Founder of Neem London Nick Reed on sustainability and reducing carbon footprints * Menswear Style Podcast interviews John Bright, founder of The Good Neighbour * Podcast: Claire Bergkamp, COO of The Textile Exchange on Sustainability * CEO of Thrilling, Shilla Kim-Parker on the digitization of secondhand * Menswear Style Podcast interviews co-founder of sustainable brand Alder and Green
http://dlvr.it/SF47kc

Christie's auctioning House of Gucci costumes

Image: House of Gucci Father, son, House of Gucci, and Christie’s Auction House. Ever since the fashion industry began roaring at the announcement of the House of Gucci movie, the talk of the own aside from the acting performances has been the costumes. Now, fans can actually stand a chance at dressing like the film’s stars Lady Gaga and Adam Driver if their bid is high enough. Christie’s Auction House auctioning Lady Gaga and Adam Driver’s ski outfits from House of Gucci Christie’s Auction House is auctioning off the stars ski looks with proceeds going to the European Leukodystrophies Association. Gaga’s look for auction includes a vintage Paolo Gucci jacket, vintage Gucci belt, black turtleneck, vintage gold and pearl costume jewelry, and a vintage faux fox fur hat. Driver’s look includes a bespoke white ski suit, a white wool sweater, and Sorel boots. The bid for Driver’s costume starts at 2000 euros while Gaga’s starts at 4000 euros. The looks are estimated to eventually go for 10,000 euros. The auction is open now until December 14. In a statement Cécile Verdier, president of Christie’s France, said, “It is with great pleasure that we have committed to support ELA’s very first charity sale, running on our online platform until 14 December. On offer are 18 exquisite lots, including costumes from the film House of Gucci – all proceeds will support research into leukodystrophy, in order to put an end to this disease that affects children and mothers.”
http://dlvr.it/SF3Zgw

Podcast: Higher Ed Relies on Asia

Joshua Williams In this episode, “Higher Ed Relies on Asia” part of “The Future of Fashion Education” series, we investigate the relationship and reliance between American and European academic institutions and Asian students, as Western countries see declines in domestic student populations.
http://dlvr.it/SF30dy

Quiz returns to positive EBITDA, revenues jump

Image: Quiz media centre Omni-channel fashion brand Quiz reported revenue increase of 109 percent to 36 million pounds for the six month period, while underlying operating losses amounted to 1.3 million pounds compared to 5.5 million pounds last year. In a statement, the company said, underlying EBITDA increased to a profit of 0.7 million pounds against losses of 3.3 million pounds in the first half of last year, which represented an EBITDA margin of 1.8 percent compared to negative margin of 19.2 percent in H12021. Commenting on the unaudited results update, Tarak Ramzan, founder and chief executive officer of the company, said: “Quiz has delivered an encouraging set of results during the period with strong cash flows generated and a return to positive EBITDA. The removal of the social restrictions resulted in a substantial uplift in revenues in the period, as customer demand for the brand’s dressy and occasion wear returned.” Highlights of Quiz’s H1 results Underlying pre-tax loss was 1.3 million pounds against loss of 5.5 million pounds and reported pre-tax loss also amounted to 1.3 million pounds compared to 10.6 million pounds last year. Underlying loss per share was 1.18 pence and the loss per share incurred was 1.18 pence compared to earnings per share of 9.62 pence. The company witnessed online growth with a 43 percent increase in sales through Quiz’s own website and a 27 percent uplift in total online sales. Active customers increased by 30 percent compared to the prior financial year. The group’s store estate comprised 61 stores in the United Kingdom and five in the Republic of Ireland at the end of the period, with two more opening in the UK. Quiz’s international revenues rose 160 percent during the period. The company’s revenues in the two months to November 30, 2021 were up 108 percent on the prior year and consistent with levels generated prior to the Covid-19 disruption on a like-for-like basis. Quiz is confident that the group can return to profitability in a trading environment not significantly impacted by Covid-19 restrictions and deliver long-term sustainable and profitable growth.
http://dlvr.it/SF2Rpw

Wednesday, December 8, 2021

Decomposed waste could soon make fashion's raw materials

Image: Mycelium, Pexels A new project spearheaded by the Biomimicry Institute aims to find novel uses for the 92 million tonnes of fashion waste that is discarded annually. The two-year programme researches new ways to use decomposed waste elements into fibres for fashion. Together with the Metabolic Institute and HKRITA, the Institute is conducting a landscape analysis of commercially-ready decomposition technologies. These technologies are then piloted to find diverse alternatives for decomposition of textile waste in a major European city, working with local businesses, communities, and government to develop detailed strategic plans for future expansion. The Institute was recently awarded 2.5 million euros by the Laudes Foundation, a not-for profit that focuses on nature-inspired solutions for a healthy planet, to convert waste into biocompatible raw materials for fashion industry via a the multi-year Design for Decomposition initiative. Eliminating microplastic from clothing With more than a third of all microplastic pollution released from clothing and almost 92 million tonnes of fashion waste discarded annually, compromising people’s health and the environment, it is essential for the industry to embrace true decomposition and work with nature to help address the worst effects of textile waste. This is what Biomimicry Institute and its partners supported by the Laudes Foundation seek to achieve through this initiative. The initiative, which demonstrates the Laudes Foundation’s commitment to helping the fashion industry harness its power for good and achieve systemic change, will take a deep dive into biological research of the various types and circumstances of natural decomposition, running local tests in Ghana, led by the OR Foundation based in Accra, as well as Amsterdam or Berlin. It will then match those approaches to the hundreds of known decomposition technologies to scale new bio-compatible solutions to prove that system change can happen globally. Change is possible The Biomimicry Institute says many in the fashion and textiles industries believe it is not possible manage without petroleum-based polyester; that the best “green strategies” can do is get better at recovering and recycling it. The Institute states it is confident human ingenuity can do a lot better than that by harnessing the same forces that helped make the planet so hospitable to life the first time: bacteria, enzymes, mycelium, and algae to build a truly biocompatible industry.
http://dlvr.it/SDzydp