Saturday, September 11, 2021

Video: Claudia Skoda at MBFW

In this video, machine-knit fashion designer Claudia Skoda has presented her SS22 collection at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week (MBFW) in Berlin. Watch the video below. Video: MBFW.berlin via YouTube Photo credit: Kunstbibliothek, Facebook
http://dlvr.it/S7N72P

Video: Neo.Fashion. presents the "Best Graduates' Show"

In this video, Berlin-based graduate hub Neo.Fashion. has presented over 80 graduates from 13 universities from German-speaking countries at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week (MBFW) in Berlin. Watch the "Best Graduates' Show" below. Video: MBFW.berlin via YouTube Photo credit: MBFW.Berlin, Facebook
http://dlvr.it/S7N70x

JD Sports reportedly looking to acquire Missguided

Image: Missguided Facebook Sportswear retailer JD Sports is said to be one of a “number of parties” in talks to invest in e-commerce retailer Missguided. The proposed acquisition could see the sports company gain full control over Missguided, with neither company confirming the offer as of this moment. According to a report by Sky News, JD Sports is looking for the “acquisition of a controlling interest” in the trend-led e-commerce brand, with its founder Nitin Passi supposedly unclear on whether he would approve a majority stake. Missguided was founded in 2009 by Passi, using a 50 thousand pound loan, and has since grown to be a major fashion e-commerce platform, without the need to raise money according to its founder. Back in April, it was reported that Passi was looking to sell a stake in the company in order to further its international growth. The retailer appointed Rothschild bankers, who they continue to work with, to look into potential investors, with Passi stating at the time: “We can still grow this business as we are but we want to grow the business more aggressively.” The trend-led retailer has also recently partnered with Asda on bringing its products to Asda stores and its online website, as part of the supermarket chain’s goal to appeal to younger consumers. JD’s acquisition train JD Sports has arranged a flurry of acquisitions over the past year, seeing the company spend a considerable sum on a number of European and American retailers, including Wellgosh, DTLR, Shoe Palace and Oi Polloi. The sportswear giant also reportedly looked into the purchase of Topshop and Debenhams during their time of uncertainty last year, with Debenhams being snatched up by Boohoo and Topshop joining the Asos family in the end. In February, the company stated it had raised a total of 464 million pounds through new shares in a bid to support future acquisitions. It said at the time, it was “exploring additional funding options with a view to increasing its flexibility to invest in future strategic opportunities”.
http://dlvr.it/S7M2r2

Friday, September 10, 2021

NYFW SS22: Carolina Herrera celebrates 40 years in fashion

Image: courtesy of Carolina Herrera In Pictures For spring/summer 2022, Carolina Herrera’s creative director Wes Gordon celebrated four decades of fashion at the New York-based atelier, House of Herrera with a decadent collection filled with bold, vibrant ballgowns. Described as a “fresh tribute to the glamour, fun and irreverence of the early 1980s,” this is a collection inspired by the vivid shapes, alegría de vivir (happiness of living), and bold confidence of Carolina Herrera’s early collections, and a handmade collection dossier discovered by Gordon documenting the spring/summer 1983 collection. Image: courtesy of Carolina Herrera The collection, shown during New York Fashion Week, mixed signature Carolina Herrera styles such as florals and polka dots on elegant ballgowns and cocktail dresses, alongside bralettes, crop tops and mini-skirts, which added a modern, youthful touch. While the vibrant hues of reds, pinks, and marigolds were beautiful, it was the riffs of black and white, seen in graphic vertical stripes and in cascading layers of tulle that made the biggest statement of a bold, confident Herrera woman. Image: courtesy of Carolina Herrera Dramatic sleeves continue to be a statement element of the House, evolving to delicate puffs at the shoulder or dramatic shapes framing the face while bright floral prints were mixed with polka dots to “evoke endless summer nights,” explained the brand. Other highlights included playful sequin gingham tailored into sharp suiting and mini-dresses and a print featuring painted brush strokes spelling out the letters of Carolina seen on high-waisted skirts with thigh-high slits, bralettes and elegant dresses. Image: courtesy of Carolina Herrera The collection was complemented by bold statement jewellery, further riffing off the floral and polka dot motifs, and shoes and handbags by CH Carolina Herrera, along with makeup by Carolina Herrera Beauty. Image: courtesy of Carolina Herrera Image: courtesy of Carolina Herrera Image: courtesy of Carolina Herrera Image: courtesy of Carolina Herrera ">
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Fashion East announces spring/summer 2022 line-up at LFW

Image: courtesy of Chet Lo Talent incubator Fashion East is supporting five designers for spring/summer 2022 at the upcoming London Fashion Week and has announced an all-new multimedia partnership with luxury retailer Browns. Fashion East Much-talked-about Chinese-American designer Chet Lo, who creates futuristic, alien-esque designs, will join the Fashion East line-up for the first time. Lo will showcase his bold, colourful and daring designs at the live showcase alongside Maximilian, who celebrates Black history and identity in his work, and Jawara Alleyne, whose work is rooted in his background growing up between Jamaica, The Cayman Islands and London. Alongside the physical showcase, London-based accessories brand HRH and South Korean designer Goomheo will release their spring/summer 2022 collections digitally. Each designer is supported by Fashion East with financial bursaries, business consultation and year-round mentoring from industry experts. Fashion East partners with Browns on in-store installations and product curations Fashion East has also announced a new multimedia partnership with retailer Browns to celebrate two decades of discovering, nurturing and supporting emerging design talent with store installations, product curations and a multi-faceted editorial. Highlights will include set designer Tony Hornecker creating a colourful installation at both Browns Brook Street and Browns East, while Patrick Waugh has created collages made using the Fashion East image archives, to celebrate the influence of Fashion East on London’s creative landscape, and the incubator’s past, present and future alumni. In addition, the Browns’ entrance and focus areas will feature Fashion East’s founder Lulu Kennedy curating and presenting her edit of Browns’ autumn/winter 2021 collections. Fashion East has launched the careers of more than 140 designers and brands, including Art School, Ashley Williams, Bobby Abley, Charles Jeffrey Loverboy, Craig Green, Holly Fulton, James Long, Kit Neale, Matty Bovan, Richard Nicoll, Simone Rocha, and Nensi Dojaka, the latest winner of the LVMH Prize. The Fashion East showcase at London Fashion Week will take place on September 20.
http://dlvr.it/S7K5Wg

Video: Marc Cain SS22 collection

In this video, fashion designer Marc Cain has presented his SS22 collection entitled Keep on Dancing at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week (MBFW) in Berlin. Watch the video below. Video: Marc Cain via YouTube Photo credit: Livier Guerrero, Facebook
http://dlvr.it/S7HWz6

Thursday, September 9, 2021

Hermès welcomes students to leatherworking school

Image: Hermès Facebook Luxury fashion house Hermès has introduced its École Hermès des savoir-faire (the Hermès School of know-how) centred around leatherworking and craftsmanship. The French house has opened its doors to new potential talents, including those with no professional craftsmanship skills, to leather workshops. The first school of the luxury brand will take place in the Hermès store for leather goods in Fitilieu, Isère. Following a specified training structure, participants will be tested and evaluated by the brand’s in-house artisans and experts. Students will receive a certificate establishing their involvement in the courses, with a total of 90 craftsmen looking over their progress. Demand for leather goods and the need to expand on production prompted the house to venture into education, with Hermès stating on its website: “It is now a matter of training adults who, in nine out of ten cases, are completely new to leather goods.” The luxury group is looking to grow the initiative throughout its leather goods department, with the goal of gradually introducing the training programme to the rest of the division.
http://dlvr.it/S7FQFm

JD Sports hires Nike veteran as new non-exec director

Image: JD Sports JD Sports has named Bert Hoyt as a new non-executive director. Hoyt is a sportswear veteran who spent the most part of his career at Nike, joining in 1998 and working his way up to the position of vice president and general manager of Nike EMEA before retiring in January of this year. During his time at Nike, he was credited with transforming the company’s Western Europe and EMEA businesses, helping them to achieve substantial growth in revenue and profit. Prior to joining Nike, he spent 10 years at German sportswear brand Puma, as general manager of Puma International. “I am delighted to welcome Bert to the board of directors of JD,” said executive chairman Peter Cowgill in a release. Cowgill hailed Hoyt’s “extensive knowledge of the market in which JD operates” and “deep understanding of key supplier relationships, market dynamics and international operations”. He also confirmed JD Sports is making “substantial progress” with regard to new board appointments, which he said will address the “composition, skill sets and balance of the board”.
http://dlvr.it/S7FQFR

Banana Republic rejuvenates its brand identity in new campaigns

Image: Banana Republic Apparel and lifestyle retailer Banana Republic has revealed a new look for the brand, reminiscent of its global heritage and with the goal of transforming the label’s roots into a modern style. The 43 year old brand will be remodelling its customer experience, through updated apparel design, digital transformations and in-store upgrades. Its first move comes with two autumn 2021 campaigns ‘Imagined Worlds’ and ‘The New Look’, centred around the brand’s origins in global exploration and inspiration. Alongside a new collection, the ‘Imagined Worlds’ campaign is inspired by travelling and fictional folklore worlds, such as Middle Earth and Westeros. The fresh identity and positioning aim to highlight the brand’s new direction, as it looks to target the modern-day consumer. Image: Banana Republic Part of Power Plan 2023 “We started with a very clear vision of what this iconic American company can be and what we need to do in terms of our product quality and design, packaging and service, our digital experiences, and experiences in our stores to bring this vision to life in a way that excites culture and moves our business,” said Sandra Stangl, brand president and CEO, in a statement. Stangl joined the company as the new CEO towards the end of 2020, tasked with the challenge of bringing the brand back to its heritage status as part of the Gap Group’s Power Plan 2023. The omnichannel focused plan aims to reconnect with the Gap consumer, with a goal of building up buyer confidence again while attracting new customers. Stangl continued: “This fall is just the beginning for Banana Republic. We embark on an adventure of our lifetimes, led by creativity, curiosity, and a newfound drive. The excitement is palpable across the entire organisation as we all dream about the opportunities to transform this iconic lifestyle brand into a forever brand: always relevant, always current, never not modern.” Image: Banana Republic Official Site A new design direction: The New Look Chief brand officer Ana Andjelic said on the new design direction: “With The New Look, our goal is to create silhouettes and branding that is always nostalgic and simultaneously contemporary. Just like punk and yuppie defined a decade and grunge and metrosexual clashed on the same streets, The New Look blurs sartorial codes.” As part of The New Look collection, the brand offers a range of traveller inspired pieces, including cargo pants, a photojournalist vest, leather jumpsuits and suede trench dresses. The autumn 2021 collection focuses on bringing back materials the clothing brand was once known for, such as Italian merino wool, silk and cashmere. Design elements contrast between workwear and casual wear. “The New Look is less about fashion and more about living,” explains Andjelic. To get there, we mixed the mythical American look, San Francisco imagination, and the late 90s. Keywords are utilitarian chic and modern casual wear. Safari meets tuxedo, formalwear meets casualwear, menswear meets womenswear, vintage meets tailoring, functionality meets imagination.”
http://dlvr.it/S7CpTy

Wednesday, September 8, 2021

Lenzing CEO Stefan Doboczky steps down

Image: Stefan Doboczky, Bernhard J. Holzner for Lenzing Lenzing has announced that the company’s supervisory board has reached a mutual agreement with its longstanding chief executive officer Stefan Doboczky to end his contract. The company said that Doboczky has informed the board that he will not be available for another extension of his contract and the parties mutually agreed to end the contract effective September 30, 2021. “My sincere thanks go to Stefan Doboczky for his exceptional achievements at Lenzing. The design and implementation of the transformation of Lenzing AG into a global specialty fiber leader and the positioning of the company as a recognized sustainability champion have been major accomplishments of Stefan Doboczky over the last years”, said Peter Edelmann, chairman of the supervisory board in a statement. “Developing and consistently implementing the Lenzing strategy has been the cornerstone of my work in recent years. After extensive consideration, I have decided that this is the right time for a personal chang,” added Doboczky. The company added that Cord Prinzhorn has been appointed interim CEO. Prinzhorn is a member of the supervisory board and will be available until a successor is found.
http://dlvr.it/S79jN3

Banana Republic rejuvenates its brand identity in new campaigns

Image: Banana Republic Apparel and lifestyle retailer Banana Republic has revealed a new look for the brand, reminiscent of its global heritage and with the goal of transforming the label’s roots into a modern style. The 43 year old brand will be remodelling its customer experience, through updated apparel design, digital transformations and in-store upgrades. Its first move comes with two autumn 2021 campaigns ‘Imagined Worlds’ and ‘The New Look’, centred around the brand’s origins in global exploration and inspiration. Alongside a new collection, the ‘Imagined Worlds’ campaign is inspired by travelling and fictional folklore worlds, such as Middle Earth and Westeros. The fresh identity and positioning aim to highlight the brand’s new direction, as it looks to target the modern-day consumer. Image: Banana Republic Part of Power Plan 2023 “We started with a very clear vision of what this iconic American company can be and what we need to do in terms of our product quality and design, packaging and service, our digital experiences, and experiences in our stores to bring this vision to life in a way that excites culture and moves our business,” said Sandra Stangl, brand president and CEO, in a statement. Stangl joined the company as the new CEO towards the end of 2020, tasked with the challenge of bringing the brand back to its heritage status as part of the Gap Group’s Power Plan 2023. The omnichannel focused plan aims to reconnect with the Gap consumer, with a goal of building up buyer confidence again while attracting new customers. Stangl continued: “This fall is just the beginning for Banana Republic. We embark on an adventure of our lifetimes, led by creativity, curiosity, and a newfound drive. The excitement is palpable across the entire organisation as we all dream about the opportunities to transform this iconic lifestyle brand into a forever brand: always relevant, always current, never not modern.” Image: Banana Republic Official Site A new design direction: The New Look Chief brand officer Ana Andjelic said on the new design direction: “With The New Look, our goal is to create silhouettes and branding that is always nostalgic and simultaneously contemporary. Just like punk and yuppie defined a decade and grunge and metrosexual clashed on the same streets, The New Look blurs sartorial codes.” As part of The New Look collection, the brand offers a range of traveller inspired pieces, including cargo pants, a photojournalist vest, leather jumpsuits and suede trench dresses. The autumn 2021 collection focuses on bringing back materials the clothing brand was once known for, such as Italian merino wool, silk and cashmere. Design elements contrast between workwear and casual wear. “The New Look is less about fashion and more about living,” explains Andjelic. To get there, we mixed the mythical American look, San Francisco imagination, and the late 90s. Keywords are utilitarian chic and modern casual wear. Safari meets tuxedo, formalwear meets casualwear, menswear meets womenswear, vintage meets tailoring, functionality meets imagination.”
http://dlvr.it/S79jHF

Ghurka appoints new president, creative director and finance VP

Image: Ghurka, Facebook US leather bags and accessories manufacturer Ghurka has named three new key hires. Jacques Panis has been appointed as the company’s new president, where he will oversee the expansion of the brand’s direct-to-consumer footprint, “revitalize” its wholesale business and spearhead upcoming customer and product innovation initiatives. Panis joins from cannabis brand Mary's Medicinals where he was CEO. Prior to that, he was the chief executive of diamonds company New World Diamonds, and president of luxury goods retailer Shinola. “I am honored to be joining Ghurka during this exciting time in its history and look forward to leading and evolving the brand that not only has a rich heritage, but huge future potential," Panis said in a release. “For 45 years Ghurka has represented the pinnacle of American luxury leather goods, and we will further solidify that placement,” he added. New creative head at Ghurka Also joining the company is John Truex, who has been appointed creative director. Truex is a luxury leather industry veteran, having co-founded Lambertson Truex in 1998, which was then acquired by Tiffany & Company in 2009. Following the acquisition, Truex served as vice president and design director of the Tiffany Leather Collection. Truex left Tiffany & Co in 2013 when he was appointed design director of leather accessories at Shinola. His first creations at Ghurka will be presented with the upcoming Holiday 2021 collection. Finally, Christina North has been appointed as the brand’s vice president of finance. She joins from women's fashion and lifestyle brand Vera Bradley where she spent the past 11 years in financial planning and analytics, business intelligence, e-commerce and operations. She played a key role in the brand’s pivot from a promotion-led sales strategy to a product-led strategy. Ghurka said it will “draw on her broad and diverse experience in various business finance roles and corporate functions to drive efficient, effective business finance support”. The three key changes come after Ghurka was acquired by a private investment group in 2019. The group viewed the acquisition as “a major opportunity for long-term growth and brand transformation”, and see the new hires as “a step towards making good on that investment”.
http://dlvr.it/S786Pd

Tuesday, September 7, 2021

H&M opens first Panama store

Image: H&M H&M has opened its first store in Panama, located at the country’s Multiplaza Mall. Covering 2,200 square meters, the store includes the Swedish fashion retailer’s departments for women, men’s kids and divided. “Opening our first store in Panama at the Multiplaza Mall is truly fantastic,” said Dan Nordstrom, H&M’s global head of franchise, in a release. “Central America holds great potential, and we look forward to meeting our Panamanian customers.” The opening in Panama brings H&M’s total market presence to 75. “We are very proud to be H&M’s franchise partner in Central America and make their fashion collections available in Panama for the very first time,” said Jaime Sampol, general manager at Hola Moda S.A.
http://dlvr.it/S762rp

Frame launches (Bio) Degradable denim collections

Image: courtesy of Frame Premium American denim brand Frame has launched (Bio) Degradable jeans in partnership with Milan-based and family-run Candiani made from 100 percent cotton that is 100 percent biodegradable. The (Bio) Degradable denim collections for both menswear and womenswear features three innovative fabrics: Rigid 727, Comfort Stretch 785, and Super Stretch 778 denim, which degrade respective to stretch content. While the rigid fabric is 100 percent cotton is 100 percent biodegradable, the comfort stretch and super stretch fabrics employ Roica V550, a yarn that breaks down in a fraction of the time that conventional yarn does and leaves behind no harmful substances in the environment. The jeans then undergo Candiani’s signature micro plastics-free dying process to ensure that they are degradable. Each of the styles are also crafted with “minimal impact,” explains Frame, as the jeans are sewn with 100 percent Tencel threads that degrade with the denim, while metal rivets have been replaced with embroidered “drivets,” and buttons, made from recycled metals. The jeans also have organic or recycled cotton pocket bags and labels as well as recycled paper hangtags printed with soy-based ink also degrade. Frame has also ensured that each garment features a QR code for traceability featuring information on its individual impact and fabrication, in a move to ultimately eliminate the need for labels and hang tags, and further reduce its carbon footprint. Each pair is also responsibly washed following Frame’s four pillars of responsible washing, meaning no bleach, no potassium permanganate, no stone-washing, while using water-saving machinery. Image: courtesy of Frame To mark the launch, Frame has commissioned London-based creative studio Isabel + Helen to design a window display for Frame’s Madison Avenue, SoHo and Dallas stores, as well as department store Harrods. The sculptures “reference the circular and almost infinite journey of the innovative denim”. The collection will be available to shop online at frame-store.com, with prices starting at 225 pounds. Image: courtesy of Frame Image: courtesy of Frame
http://dlvr.it/S762pt

Spotted: 5 trends on the streets of Stockholm Fashion Week

Image: Adam Katz Sinding, Stockholm Fashion Week Fashion weeks have slowly commenced reverting back to their normal forms, albeit with an added number of regulations and only a select number of attendees allowed in person. Stockholm Fashion Week came back in almost full swing, hosting a range of upcoming designers, like Iggy Jeans and Filippa Agaton, as well as many established names such as Asket, House of Dagmar and Stand Studio. Brands and organisations were able to arrange physical shows and presentations for either a digital crowd or a small audience, in what the organisation called a democratic format. “This season’s fashion week really is such a celebration of fashion and creativity,” said secretary general of the Swedish Fashion Association, Catarina Midby, in a statement. “We are beyond happy to present a great part of the SFW programme physically and finally meet with the designers and see their creations live. And we are proud to present Swedish fashion brands’ commitment and work around sustainability, technology and innovation.” Attendees to the shows aimed to pull out all the stops with outfits they have likely been waiting over a year to show off, anticipating the moment they could venture out into the great outdoors again. As this edition of Stockholm Fashion Week rounds out, we put together a brief outline of the best street style looks spotted on attendees making their way to long-awaited physical events. Plentiful print Contrasting and coordinating prints were a common theme throughout attendees, with many opting for bold and bright patterns. Some decided on colour clashing prints, while others leaned towards a one-print layered look. Exotic prints, like leopard-inspired styles, seemed to triumph over the rest, possibly as a way to grasp on to the summer months that swiftly passed by. Image: Adam Katz Sinding, Stockholm Fashion Week Image: Adam Katz Sinding, Stockholm Fashion Week Image: Adam Katz Sinding, Stockholm Fashion Week Image: Adam Katz Sinding, Stockholm Fashion Week Jazzy jeans Jeans with dynamic prints added an extra layer of edge to this season’s street style looks. Jagged and explosive shapes took over the bottoms, with the graphics appearing in bright colours often printed on or occasionally appearing in a contrasting material. Image: Adam Katz Sinding, Stockholm Fashion Week Image: Adam Katz Sinding, Stockholm Fashion Week Image: Adam Katz Sinding, Stockholm Fashion Week Image: Adam Katz Sinding, Stockholm Fashion Week Full-on fluff The fluffy hat has certainly made its mark in the past year, however, some guests took the fluff trend to the next level. Floor-length fluffy coats and dresses made striking statements on the street, with plenty of fresh blocked colours further emphasising the daring looks. Some took the fluff down a notch, with soft-looking accessories that still had their individual eye-catching moments. Image: Adam Katz Sinding, Stockholm Fashion Week Image: Adam Katz Sinding, Stockholm Fashion Week Image: Adam Katz Sinding, Stockholm Fashion Week Image: Adam Katz Sinding, Stockholm Fashion Week Sized up suits Suits were a big player among the guests. Most stuck to beige and pastel colours, opting for low-key colourways, with a larger focus on the oversized factor. Sleeves and legs appeared a few inches too long, touching the floor or covering hands often flaring out to make a more sophisticated look. Blazers were preferred in non-fitted styles, in what often appeared as a size too large, contrasting with printed shirts or no shirt at all. Image: Adam Katz Sinding, Stockholm Fashion Week Image: Adam Katz Sinding, Stockholm Fashion Week Image: Adam Katz Sinding, Stockholm Fashion Week Leather on leather One item of leather was not near enough for this year’s attendees. Full outfits, layered materials and added leather accessories became a common theme throughout the events, with statement-making colours and styles elevating the looks even more. Oversized leather accessories were also a popular choice, appearing in varying designs and techniques that displayed fascinating textures throughout the pieces. Image: Adam Katz Sinding, Stockholm Fashion Week Image: Adam Katz Sinding, Stockholm Fashion Week Image: Adam Katz Sinding, Stockholm Fashion Week Image: Adam Katz Sinding, Stockholm Fashion Week
http://dlvr.it/S74SVn

Monday, September 6, 2021

Off-White launches tea set with Ginori 1735

Image: courtesy of Ginori 1735; Off-White c/o Ginori 1735 Virgil Abloh’s Off-White has unveiled a limited homeware collaboration with Italian brand Ginori 1735 featuring tableware for a “modern dining room”. The tableware collaboration is based on the traditional shape of Ginori 1735’s Antico Doccia collection, which has been used since the mid-1700s and features dinner plates, serving platters, a teapot and a teacup saucer set. Each piece combines Abloh’s aesthetic with Ginori 1735’s late-baroque Florentine silverware, with Off-White graffiti superimposed on the crockery in a simplified colour palette of black and white to allow the collection to “compliment any kitchen or home”. Image: courtesy of Ginori 1735; Off-White c/o Ginori 1735 Commenting on the collection, Virgil Abloh, chief creative director and founder of Off-White, said in a statement: “This is a collection for the modern dining room - whether formal in a home, a millennial apartment, or simply a dorm room. The imposition of the modernity of a logo and graffiti art with the respected house of Ginori 1735 is proof that good design can live on forever.” This marks the first release between the two luxury brands, with Ginori 1735 stating that a larger partnership will follow in 2022. The collection was unveiled at the Off-White Milan store at via Bigli 2 during Milan Salone del Mobile Design Fair. The store’s ground floor has been transformed into an immersive Off-White Home environment, where different “objects” across multiple categories are connected into a visual dialogue of product design. Off-White c/o Ginori 1735 limited edition homeware is available on both Off-White and Ginori 1735‘s websites, select Off-White boutiques, the Ginori 1735 Milan flagship, and Farfetch.com. Prices range from 165 to 485 pounds / 170 to 500 euros / 245 to 720 US dollars. Image: courtesy of Ginori 1735; Off-White c/o Ginori 1735 Image: courtesy of Ginori 1735; Off-White c/o Ginori 1735 Image: courtesy of Ginori 1735; Off-White c/o Ginori 1735 Image: courtesy of Ginori 1735; Off-White c/o Ginori 1735 Image: courtesy of Ginori 1735; Off-White c/o Ginori 1735 Image: courtesy of Ginori 1735; Off-White c/o Ginori 1735
http://dlvr.it/S72g2f

“Resell as a service”: Felix Winckler on the rise of Reflaunt and how it plans to change the industry

Image: Reflaunt Interview We have all considered selling a large part of our wardrobes, especially over the last year during long term lockdowns when the world collectively realised that we maybe didn’t need all these clothes after all. The second-hand market has seen a significant increase, growing 20 times faster than traditional retail according to resale management firm Reflaunt. The tech company aims to make the reselling process easier on both a consumer and brand front, offering its expertise in the development of digital resale programs for retailers. Reflaunt has previously partnered with the likes of Harvey Nichols, Balenciaga and COS in the creation of platforms primed and ready for consumers to sell through. The company specialises in tried-and-tested customer journeys implemented into these in-house resell services, with different interface options available depending on brand goals and desires. “This could involve building a dedicated platform, creating a digital interface to manage the drop off and collection systems or an integration that is made directly on their website,” explains Reflaunt’s CCO and co-founder Felix Winckler. Launching in September of last year, COS welcomed more than 6,000 new subscribers to its resale platform in the first ten days, with over 1,400 items sold within those days. On the luxury side, Balenciaga’s VIP resale service saw a sell-through rate of above 50 percent in its first month, with almost half of the customers opting for Balenciaga vouchers instead of cash payment. Right on the cusp of Reflaunt’s launch with H&M Canada’s new resale platform, Winckler spoke with FashionUnited about the benefits of resale for all parties involved, a brand’s motivation to get in on the market and why every retailer needs Reflaunt. Where does the most interest to collaborate come from in the fashion industry? Is there a particular sector? There is more value in the resale of luxury goods. Items that retain their value tend to maintain higher prices because of their quality, which is understandable. So the luxury market is what we consider as the market with the most value in resale. Now having said that, we work with COS, we work with H&M, so obviously, we offer resale for a broad spectrum of brands. This is very important for customers because it is also important to be able to resell lesser value products. However, the margin you will make by reselling something like basic trousers or a used pair of sneakers is not going to be the same as if you were reselling a luxury product. Can you tell me a little bit about the collaboration with H&M and how it came about? Originally we started working with COS, which is part of the H&M group, and I believe they were very happy with what we were doing with them. They recommended us to the group level. After some discussions with some people at H&M, they decided that the Canadian market would be a great place to start. The end goal is to open the service to other markets, which will come in a certain phase. We are looking to open our services to as many retailers as possible. There is a real positive environmental impact to consider when it comes to expanding the product lifecycle. More and more resellers are being taken seriously now and, beyond that, there is higher customer demand. We consider resale a service that can be generalised and added to every customer journey. Image: Reflaunt x COS How does Reflaunt ensure the brand identity stays consistent throughout the new platform? That is the whole value proposition that we bring to resellers. We have got different options of customer journeys that we have already designed. All the marketing services, like popups and emails, have already been drafted. We deliver these to our customers and they are then totally free to adjust the tone of voice and design to match their identity. The core proposition is to allow retailers to really maintain standards of communication and identity when they integrate this resale journey. What we provide is our expertise, a tested customer journey and validated experience they can incorporate themselves and blend into their identity. What are the typical incentives for brands, including fast fashion brands, to have a resell platform? There are several arguments. Sustainability is something of great importance and makes the subject part of their agenda, as well as product life cycles and circularity. Beyond that, there are maybe two main arguments for a brand to consider. One is a communication argument. There is not much opportunity for brands to really engage with customers beyond sales, and resale is a good angle to reengage with them and create an opportunity to increase retention. For a long-lasting relationship with their customers, resale is something easily incorporated into customer service support and so on. The other argument is truly financial really. It is not only doing something positive for the environment, but it is also partially for business. The resell market is really dynamic, some studies are talking about a 20 billion dollar market which today most brands are not seeing a penny of. If you appropriate resale into your palette of services then you can take your share of it. It’s an opportunity for retailers to create a new source of cash flow. Image: Reflaunt How does Reflaunt help to prevent counterfeiting in the luxury industry? The main way to do this is by getting the brand involved in the process. One element is accessing a customer’s buying history to link a purchase, which is something we are already using. Another way is to link our resale service with NFT tags, allowing us to have a rather bulletproof authentication element in the process. Why would customers choose to use this service instead of platforms dedicated to reselling? Depending on the model put in place, our process is made to simplify the listing process. If it’s peer-to-peer, we connect to the customer database of the retailer and can capture product descriptions so customers don’t have to write anything. If it is a consignment model, for example like our partnership with Harvey Nichols, the service is very high-end and the customer really doesn’t need to do much at all. We take care of absolutely everything, solving the process behind reselling for them. More importantly, every one of our models is built around a store credit scheme which allows customers to make more money than if they were reselling directly themselves through another platform. They have the option to be paid in either cash or store credit, but the idea is to create an incentive to resell through the retailer by getting a reward and therefore expanding a product lifecycle. It is one of our main points of differentiation. It was previously reported that Reflaunt would soon be offering a recycling service in collaboration with Yellow Octopus. Is this still in the process? Correct. The idea is that we won’t be able to resell everything, so there will be items, due to condition or price points, that we won’t be able to resell. However, we do want to offer a second life to these items. Yellow Octopus do a number of things, including recycling, and our goal is to partner with them on an upcycling solution. They will manage the sourcing and recycling of these items. We are putting together a group of recyclers and technology companies that are capable of doing things with these garments, for example making new objects and so forth. Yellow Octopus will do the sourcing and dispatching of the products. The challenge at this point is to optimise and steer the process. We are still testing and trying to fine tune the model. The long term plan is that we would be capable of plugging recyclers into different technology companies. Image: Reflaunt Do you plan on expanding into other country’s markets in the coming months? Absolutely. We already have a presence and are selling in South East Asia and we have an office in Singapore. We have got a strong presence in Europe and we just started our operation in North America, so our strategy, for the time being, is really focusing on these three regions; South East Asia, Europe and North America. We will be looking at other markets, with the most obvious ones being China, Korea and Japan. We are still in the exploration stage but we have started a number of discussions, so we hope to at least be offering our service to these markets soon. Has the company faced any challenges during this difficult year? Yes and no. On the negative side, we had a lot of launches that were ready to go last year that we postponed for obvious reasons like the stores were closed or other urgent things to do. On the positive side, the second-hand market has been quite dynamic. I think when people were at home looking at their wardrobe and had time on their hands we saw the market grow during this period. It supported the idea that this market is quite strong and resilient.
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What is the fashion designer's place in the metaverse?

Exclusive Images: Daniella Loftus, This Outfit Does Not Exist Are you familiar with the term “metaverse”? It was first coined by the author Neal Stephenson in his 1992 science fiction novel Snow Crash, but according to Google Trends it reached its peak among internet searches in April 2021 and seems to be keeping a high score since then. But why is everyone in the fashion industry suddenly interested in the Metaverse? Going beyond the obvious race for investment - Epic Games raised $1 Billion in funding last April to support its long-term vision for the Metaverse, which include many market opportunities for fashion brands - there are several unanswered questions about the topic. What will the metaverse mean for the fashion industry? And how will it impact fashion designers? What is the metaverse? “It is not gaming”, said Richard Hobbs from BNV, a marketplace for designers and brands to be present in multiple virtual environments. For Hobbs, “the metaverse is anything where a digital asset can be easily transferred across multiple use cases.” Not forgetting that it is open ended and still in its early stages of development. Even though we already know the metaverse is not gaming, it is a fact that gaming is leading the way. An industry that, in 2020, was worth 152.1 billion dollars, and doesn’t seem to stop growing. Through gaming, people are getting to know the metaverse and making it part of their everyday life. Fashion merges with gaming Leslie Holden, co-founder of The Digital Fashion Group, believes in the potential of merging fashion and gaming as a career path for young designers: “In the UK alone there are around 5000 fashion design graduates each year, with limited opportunities for employment. I see the metaverse as opening up new marketplaces, new opportunities, and new occupations for creatives in fashion. We are desperately needing to ensure that there is less waste of fashion talent and the metaverse can supply the answer to a lack of opportunity in the traditional fashion industry “ And Holden continues, “the technology we’re using today to create the metaverse has been developed by the gaming industry, which means that the tools weren’t developed for fashion, and like the development of the metaverse itself, we do need to ensure a joined up approach. Epic Games knows this and they are already investing in fashion, and I see the metaverse as the beginning of a new definition of fashion with purpose, potentially powered by new partners. It can be a fantastic opportunity for fashion designers.” When it comes to fashion in the metaverse, we are talking about wearability. And as explained by Richard Hobbs, currently if you buy an asset in one metaverse you can not wear it in another, because there is not a single metaverse. There are different metaverses being built by different initiatives. Some of them are owned by companies, some of them are more in the decentralised area. But both have multiple standards, multiple formats and require a single way where you can own something digitally and be able to utilise that. The current emergence of decentralised autonomous organisations facilitate the concept of NFTs and digital asset ownership. And this opened up business opportunities to fashion brands and designers as well. Fashion designers in the metaverse Daniella Loftus, from This Outfit Does Not Exist, a platform for digital fashion, believes that designers have a key role at the centre of this new universe: “I see the digital designer’s place as ensuring that we are immersed in the digital world”, said Loftus. Loftus defines digital fashion in three distinct forms: the first is phygital, digital fashion designed for the aim of producing physical garments. The second form is physical and digital combined, which is digital fashion that can be worn using augmented or virtual reality. And the third is fully digital, which is digital fashion that is sold directly to an avatar. The metaverse is concerned with the last two forms: physical and digital combined, and digital-only. “If you look at the way we consider fashion in the physical world, it allows us to shape our perceptions of ourselves when we are wearing garments, but also to shape others’ perceptions of us. As we move to the metaverse, you have those functionalities really enhanced. It does not only ensure that you feel a certain way about yourself, or others feel a certain way about you. It is immersing you in that virtual environment and defining the rules of interaction within that environment,” continued Daniella Loftus. In this scenario, designers have a unique place in guiding us to express ourselves, and allowing us to participate in worlds that otherwise would be unfamiliar. And what skills should designers develop to be this guide for the metaverse? According to Sean Chiles, co-founder of The Digital Fashion Group, “in addition to the digital mindset, fashion designers have to be able to translate the emotions that arise when researching the zeitgeist, and working with physical elements such as fabrics, technical trimmings, etc. This is the connection to the physical. Learning to work with it and blend the real with the unreal, is the primary skill I think that fashion designers need to know how to transition into a new digital reality for the future.” For Chiles, the new techniques required for digital fashion and 3D design are very similar to bespoke tailoring or couture design where you create an outfit for one customer. “Digitally you can create so many different iterations of a unique asset that there’s going to be a flood of creative output, a flood of creative NFT’s, that can only exist within the metaverse,” he said. This creates a different kind of pressure for the designer, as he concludes, “in the sense of the metaverse and digital fashion design, mastering AI is going to be really interesting as AI can help alleviate this issue.” Advancements in technologies such as artificial intelligence, and the increased ability of cloud servers to run 3D applications and rapidly render the files created, are all contributing to the expansion of the metaverse. But as Richard Hobbs points out this is open ended and in its early stages. While the technology is still developing, we can seize the opportunity to consider the best ways to create the right mindset for this new future, understanding the metaverse as a borderless landscape where we can discover new forms of social interaction. This article is a collaboration between The Digital Fashion Group Academy and FashionUnited and it was based on the Webinar "Fashion Design Meets the Metaverse", hosted by TDFGA in partnership with Parsons N Ventures. Author: Lívia Pinent, Digital Professor for Research at The Digital Fashion Group Academy. You can watch the full video here:
http://dlvr.it/S71CG2

Sunday, September 5, 2021

Q2 sales rise 35 percent at American Eagle Outfitters

Image: American Eagle Outfitters, Facebook Total net revenue for the second quarter at American Eagle Outfitters (AEO) increased 311 million dollars or 35 percent to 1.19 billion dollars compared to the second quarter of 2020. The company said Aerie revenue of 336 million rose 34 percent from second quarter 2020 on top of 32 percent growth last year. American Eagle revenue of 846 million dollars rose 35 percent versus second quarter 2020 following a 26 percent decline last year. “It’s extremely gratifying to see significant growth across our business, as we delivered another quarter of record revenue and profitability. Despite external challenges, I believe we are on path to achieve 600 million dollars in operating income this year, well ahead of our previous target,” said Jay Schottenstein, AEO’s Executive chairman of the board and chief executive officer. The company’s consolidated store revenue increased 73 percent due to an improvement in store traffic. Total online demand this quarter was up 9 percent and digital revenue decreased 5 percent from second quarter 2020. Compared to the pre-pandemic second quarter 2019 base, store revenue increased 4 percent and digital revenue increased 66 percent. Gross profit of 502 million dollars rose 89 percent from 265 million dollars in the second quarter of 2020, while gross margin of 42.1 percent expanded 1210 basis points from 30 percent in the second quarter of 2020. EPS for the quarter was 58 cents and adjusted EPS was 60 cents.
http://dlvr.it/S6zdxG

G-III Apparel Group reports Q2 net income of 19.2 million dollars

Image: DKNY, Facebook G-III Apparel Group, Ltd. said net sales for the second quarter ended July 31, 2021 increased 62.5 percent to 483.1 million dollars. The company reported net income for the second quarter of 19.2 million dollars or 39 cents per diluted share compared to a net loss of 15 million dollars or loss of 31 cents per share, in the prior year’s quarter. Commenting on the company’s performance, Morris Goldfarb, G-III’s chairman and chief executive officer, said: “We delivered outstanding second quarter results that exceeded our guidance for both the top and bottom lines. G-III’s diversified product categories ranging across our globally recognized power brands, DKNY, Donna Karan, Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger and Karl Lagerfeld Paris, position us well to meet the increasing demand for our products.” The company has raised its guidance for the fiscal year ending January 31, 2022 and now expects net sales of approximately 2.70 billion dollars and net income between 155 million dollars and 165 million dollars or between 3.10 dollars and 3.20 dollars per diluted share. For the third quarter, G-III expects net sales of approximately 1 billion dollars and net income between 80 million dollars and 90 million dollars or 1.65 dollars and 1.75 dollars per diluted share.
http://dlvr.it/S6zdwh