Saturday, January 11, 2020

4 trends that will dominate 2020

What should retailers stock in 2020? Retail data analysis firm Edited has published a report breaking down the most important runway and lifestyle trends to impact retail in the new year.

Nostalgia will move from the 90s to the 00s

90s nostalgia was one of the most successful fashion trends of 2018 and 2019. Now, as 2020 marks the start of a new decade, this nostalgic feeling is expected to turn from the 90s towards the 2000s, thanks to reboots of series and movies from that decade, such as Legally Blonde, Lizzie McGuire and Gossip Girl. In the luxury sector, Versace gave a nod to 00s nostalgia by reviving the infamous jungle dress worn by Jennifer Lopez in the 2000 Grammy Awards in its Spring 2020 collection.

If 90s nostalgia led logomania, bucket hats and scrunchies to come back to the stores, 00s nostalgia will bring square toes, Mary Janes and micro bags to retailers’ assortment. Pastel shades are also expected to make a comeback, of which lilac is the one we’ll probably see the most: Edited has already registered a 25 percent increase in lilac arrivals for Fall/Winter 2019.

Tokyo Olympics to boost Japanese references

With the 2020 Tokyo Summer Olympics coming up, Edited predicts Japanese art and fashion to be on the spotlight. Expect manga licensing and kawaii culture to start popping up in retailers’ collections.

Make way for a generation of eco-conscious kids

With young activists such as Greta Thunberg making headlines (she was named “Person of the Year” in 2019 by Time Magazine) and teenage celebrities like Billie Eillish trying to reduce their carbon footprint (the singer has partnered with non-profit organization Reverb to make her upcoming tour “as green as possible”), a significant number of teenagers is expected to become more sustainably-minded. This leads them to gravitate toward labels like Patagonia, Everlane and Birkenstock. Edited also predicts them to buy “literal interpretations” of planet Earth, with references to “mother nature” and floral/tropical prints.

Bye bye, suit and tie: workwear for men goes the casual route

Remember when Virgil Abloh made casual versions of the suit and tie on his Fall/Winter 2019 menswear collection for Louis Vuitton? The designer also signed a streetwear collection with Mr. Porter titled “Modern Office”, inspired by the new generation of workers and their workplaces. Now that even Goldman Sacks has relaxed their dress code, we can expect smart casual pieces to replace the suit and tie more and more, leading retailers to adjust to this new reality. Marks & Spencer, for example, has already cut back its tailoring assortment.

“The Spring 2020 runway was inundated with unstructured and loose fit tailoring”, noted Edited in its report on 2020 trends, mentioning Dior and Fendi as examples. Bombers, overshirts and coach jackets are likely to replace the blazer, while polo shirts and jersey basics will replace the shirt.

Dior Spring/Summer 2020

The data analysis firm also predicts the rise of performance workwear as a reaction to longer commutes and the increasing use of the bicycle as a means of transport in big cities. Fabrics featuring stretch, moisture-wicking and waterproof qualities are set to join the workwear market as well.

Images: Boohoo Facebook, Forever21 Facebook, Versace SS20 via CatwalkPictures, Asos Facebook, H&M Facebook, Everlane Facebook, YNAP newsroom, Dior Homme SS20 via CatwalkPictures



* This article was originally published here

Friday, January 10, 2020

Pitti Uomo 97: Stefano Pilati unveils ‘Random Identities’ collection

IN PICTURES Florence -Iconic Italian fashion designer Stefano Pilati revealed his first independent venture, called ‘Random Identities’, in Florence on Thursday evening.

Guests of the fashion show entered into a surreal scene: The Stazione Leopolda, one of Florence’s oldest train stations, was bare but for a rectangular collection of lights hanging from the ceiling and casting a glowing red catwalk against the stone floor.

As the lights shifted to white and against a backdrop of long and deep cello chords, models walked out in Pilati’s newest work, a collection of ready-to-wear primed for our digitized era.

The iconic designer's contemporary work combines his unique expertise in design, tailoring, and silhouettes, with his label’s menswear-oriented garments, resulting in a bold provocation controlled by monochromatic colour choices and stark detailing; a balance of refined, rigid cuts with everyday wearability.

Random Identities first collection debuts in Florence

Talking of his latest collection, Pilati, who has made a name for himself in the world of fashion with an illustrious career working across top fashion houses including Armani, Prada and Yves Saint Laurent, said: “This ‘power of silence’ is in direct contrast to the disruptive maximalism and its insistence on creating generations of ‘aspiration’ which I find obsolete, inelegant and counterproductive, especially in an era in which other forms of investment in oneself require an inner and outer balance of how we are used to presenting ourselves.”

Pilati continued: “Random Identities is my answer, with a fluid and versatile attitude, to the need of defining oneself without marking oneself - by appreciating this proposal, it can continue to evolve and self-create.

“Time is the current luxury; I do not want to give away mine to respond to institutionalised anxieties. I’d rather stop and evolve it differently.”

Photo credit: Random Identities



* This article was originally published here

Thursday, January 9, 2020

L Brands comparable sales drop, lowers outlook


L Brands, Inc. reported net sales of 3.906 billion dollars for the nine weeks ended January 4, 2020, compared to 4.072 billion dollars for the same period ended January 5, 2019. L Brands said in a statement that comparable sales decreased 3 percent for the period under review.
The company reported net sales of 12.113 billion dollars for the 48 weeks compared to net sales of 12.457 billion dollars for the 48 weeks ended January 5, 2019. Comparable sales decreased 2 percent for the period.
The company expects to report fourth quarter earnings per share of about 1.85 dollars compared to its previous guidance of about 2 dollars.
Picture:L Brands media resources


* This article was originally published here

Wednesday, January 8, 2020

Macy’s reports improvement in comparable sales

Macy’s, Inc. has announced that comparable sales on owned basis for the months of November and December 2019 rose 0.7 percent, while on owned plus licensed basis, comparable sales were up 0.6 percent.
“Macy’s, Inc.’s performance during the holiday season reflected a strong trend improvement from the third quarter. Our digital business and Growth150 stores performed well. Additionally, customers responded to our gifting assortment and marketing strategy, particularly in the 10 days before Christmas,” said Jeff Gennette, chairman and chief executive officer of Macy’s, Inc.
Picture:Facebook/Macy's


* This article was originally published here

Tuesday, January 7, 2020

Halston names new chief creative officer


American luxury label Halston has confirmed that Robert Rodriguez has been named as its new chief creative officer and will unveil his first ready-to-wear and eveningwear collections in New York in June for the pre-spring 2021 season.
Rodriguez, who closed his own signature brand last year, began his career at the house of Christian Dior New York in 1990 as an assistant fashion designer, before taking a position as design director for the contemporary brand, Laundry by Shelli Segal, in Los Angeles and was later appointed artistic design director.
Commenting on his appointment, Rodriguez said in a statement: “I am honoured and delighted to be part of Halston. Roy Halston Frowick was the creator of luxury American fashion. It is with great respect and admiration that I continue to lead the legacy and his iconic signature.”
Andrea Scoli, president of Halston, added: “I always thought Robert Rodriguez was the perfect choice for leading the Halston brand. Having worked with him for so many years, I truly felt that his aesthetic and vision for Halston would be an asset to us in supporting our future growth. I am honoured to be working with such an incredible visionary.”
The move follows Halston entering into a licensing agreement with Groupe JS International to produce and distribute sportswear and dresses under the Halston label.

Robert Rodriguez joins Halston as chief creative officer

Mitchell Hops, chief executive of Groupe JS International, said: “Halston is an iconic American brand that has truly made its mark in fashion. Rodriguez’s expertise and aesthetic will blend effortlessly with Halston’s signature designs and help elevate the brand to a new level. We are confident that under his direction, Halston will continue to grow and succeed.”
Halston was found by Roy Halston Frowick in the 1960s and was originally known for his innovation in millinery. Halston used his signature materials of jersey, cashmere and suede to reinvent the jumpsuit, the shirtdress, and the classic caftan, and this led to the 1970s era of Studio 54 becoming synonymous with Halston’s designs.
There have been many who have tried to reinvent the Halston label through the years, including Marco Zanini, Marios Schwab and Sarah Jessica Parker, and most recently Marie Mazelis who departed the label after seven years.
In the past the luxury American label has been focused on evening dresses, attracting the likes of Gisele Bundchen and Halle Berry among its admirers, however, Rodriguez will also be tasked with launching the brand’s debut sportswear collection.
Halston is currently available at a number of high-profile retailers globally including Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, Net-A-Porter and Harvey Nichols.
Image: Halston Facebook


* This article was originally published here

Monday, January 6, 2020

23 Sustainability efforts announced in January to April 2019

At the beginning of the year, quite a few sustainability initiatives were announced. From brands, retailers to manufacturers, everyone wants to be in on circularity, recycling and in general, running one’s business more responsibly. It is heartening to see sportswear brands taking the lead and presenting recyclable and eco friendly sneakers and other products. FashionUnited has put together 23 such efforts that were announced in the first four months of the year 2019.

Brands & Retailers

Monki launches sustainable swimwear line


Photo: Monki

H&M brand Monki announced a sustainable swimwear line made from recycled polyester and recycled polyamide in April. The brand promised a retro-inspired collection, marked by shoulder frills, cut out details, leopard prints, citrus fruit prints and golden beige hues.

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Ralph Lauren unveils Earth Polo made from recycled plastic


American brand Ralph Lauren announced its newest style in its Ralph Lauren Polo line in April, aptly called the Earth Polo and crafted from thread derived entirely from recycled plastic bottles. Each shirt is also dyed in a way that it does not use any water.

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H&M tests out selling vintage clothing online


Swedish multinational retailer H&M Group has started trying out sales of second-hand and vintage clothing online in April this year, as part of its commitment to increasing sustainability initiatives. The company launched a test for second-hand e-commerce on the Swedish website of its brand.

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Adidas unveils 100 percent recyclable running shoe


Photo: Adidas

Global sportswear brand Adidas has strengthened its commitment to tackling plastic waste with the unveiling of Futurecraft.Loop in April 2019, its first 100 percent recyclable performance running shoe. Futurecraft.Loop is Adidas's first running shoe that is made to be remade.

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Asics to recycle used clothing for Japan’s Olympic uniforms


Photo: Asics website

Japanese multinational Asics that produces footwear and sports equipment, announced plans at the end of January to use recycled clothing to make the official uniforms for the Japanese Olympic and Paralympic teams at the Tokyo 2020 Summer Olympics. This initiative was a contribution towards a sustainable society in line with the UN’s Sustainable Development Goals and its target to reduce CO2 emissions by 2030.

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Reformation uses store credit to push for renewable energy


Reformation, the American sustainable, vertically-integrated women's clothing brand, launched an innovative new campaign called Carbon is Canceled in February 2019. The campaign uses retail credits to incentivize consumers to opt for renewable energy options in their homes.

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Savile Row Company introduces 100 percent recyclable packaging


Photo: The Savile Row Company, Facebook

British online retailer Savile Row joined the war on plastic as it announced 100 percent recyclable and compostable packaging for its shirts in March. For online orders, there are 100 percent recyclable paper bags made from potato starch in a bid to reduce the company’s carbon footprint.

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Sperry launches sustainable platform "Look Good Do Good"


American footwear brand Sperry launched an ongoing sustainability project called "Look Good, Do Good" in March. The initiative brings together a new collection of shoes made from recycled plastic with an education program on reducing the use of plastic.

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Dr. Scholl's launches sustainability initiative


Photo: via Businesswire

American footwear and orthopedic foot care brand Dr. Scholl's announced in April that the company was investing in sustainable, eco-conscious designs to create environmentally lower-impact shoes. The brand is taking a step towards making shoes using eco-conscious materials, finding ways to reduce packaging, and choosing sustainable processes when possible.

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Cooperations

UN launches Alliance for Sustainable Fashion


Photo: UN Alliance for Sustainable Fashion website

Together with various partners, the United Nations launched the UN Alliance for Sustainable Fashion at the UN Environment Assembly in Nairobi, Kenya in March 2019. The Alliance seeks to halt the environmentally and socially destructive practices of fashion, pointing to the fact that the fashion industry is the second-biggest consumer of water and is responsible for 8-10 percent of global carbon emissions - more than all international flights and maritime shipping combined.

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Inditex and MIT sign agreement to promote research into sustainability


Spanish fast fashion giant Inditex (Zara, Pull & Bear, Bershka, Stradivarius) announced a multi-year agreement with the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT) in March to conduct joint research on sustainability and recycling of textile materials, as well as new lines of research related to data analysis.

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Solvay and Lenzing team up to develop new sustainable fabric


Austrian fiber manufacturer Lenzing and Belgian chemical group Solvay announced their partnership in March 2019 to launch a new sustainable fabric combining Tencel’s lyocell fibers and Amni Soul Eco, a biodegradable polyamide.

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Education, Companies & Fairs

Ispo Munich 2019: Textile innovations, sustainability and heavy snow


Photo: Ispo Munich / Bergans of Norway

At the Ispo Munich 2019 fair held in February, it was evident that the sportswear industry was getting serious about sustainability, and more and more brands were pushing the hot topic to the top of their agenda. Ispo Munich offered exhibitors and visitors the best of winter weather this year, with heavy snow creating a white winter landscape.

Read more...

  • CFDA launches sustainability resource hub
  • Kering ranked most sustainable company in fashion
  • Fashion Snoops discusses trends in sustainable fashion
  • Sustainability, tech, and evolving influencers: what the future holds for fashion according to Pure London
  • Saitex revamps impact of denim with U.S.-based production
  • Driving sustainability: A look inside the Tommy Hilfiger denim centre
  • Photo: Adidas



    * This article was originally published here

    Sunday, January 5, 2020

    Yolanda Zobel parts ways with Courreges

    German fashion designer Yolanda Zobel quits fashion label Courreges Friday, less than two years after she was brought in to revive the French fashion label.

    Her departure comes just a month before she was meant to show her latest autumn winter collection at Paris fashion week.

    Courreges said she was leaving after they "mutually decided to end their collaboration".

    She would now "focus on new creative projects", the brand added in a statement.

    Zobel -- who drew inspiration from Berlin's dance scene -- was seen as a breath of fresh air when she was brought in in February 2018 to rethink the brand, best known for its 1960s futuristic look.

    Zobel brought sustainable fashion vision to Courreges

    She vowed to bring Courreges back to its mould-breaking roots and create "a whole new universe for a free human... engaged and yet able to indulge in liberating moments of fun."

    Zobel quickly made headlines by promising to do away with the space-age vinyl that has been the label's stock and trade since its foundation in 1961 by French engineer Andre Courreges and his wife Jacqueline.

    She launched a numbered capsule collection called "Fin de Plastique" (The End of Plastic) that counted down its stocks of vinyl, promising to replace it with a sustainable version of the shiny fabric.

    Yet she struggled to create a new personality for the brand -- whose look so defined early 1960s rebellion -- although her last collection, shown on a canal barge in Paris, was praised by critics.

    Courreges said her final collection, for autumn winter 2020, will be presented at the end of January.

    The daughter of a jewellery creator, Zobel made her name working for Giorgio Armani, Chloe, Jil Sander and the avant garde Acne Studios.(AFP)



    * This article was originally published here