Video: Francesca Miranda SS22 collection

In this video, fashion label Francesca Miranda has presented its SS22 collection at New York Bridal Fashion Week (NYFW) Watch the video below. Do you want to see more clothing collections? Click here to view the FashionUnited Marketplace. Video: Sposa Channel via YouTube Photo credit: Sposa Channel
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Video: Morilee by Madeline Gardener SS22 collection

In this video, fashion label Morilee by Madeline Gardener presents its SS22 collection at New York Bridal Fashion Week (NYFW). Watch the video below. Do you want to see more clothing collections? Click here to view the FashionUnited Marketplace. Video: I DO! TV via YouTube Photo credit: I DO! TV, YouTube
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The aestheticisation of online consumer identity

Image: Digital Footprint Workshop, process image by participant Maria Gil Mendoza “Digital dimensions ask us to continuously deconstruct and reinterpret our digital environment,” said Chinouk Filique de Miranda, in a presentation at the Responsible Fashion Series conference, attended by FashionUnited. As an independent researcher, Filique de Miranda has dedicated her time to analysing the digitisation of fashion and how consumers connect and communicate within this newly developed technological prism. In a presentation at the conference, she examined this alternative engagement of the digital consumer, deconstructing how an online buyer interacts with fashion. Brands themselves hold the responsibility of presenting potential consumers with an honest view of what they can offer to benefit their lives in a positive way. This can often lead to messages and branding that influences the online persona of a consumer, a portrayal of themselves they manufacture that doesn’t necessarily represent who they are offline. Business models thrive on the social dependency of their users “When we try on an outfit we don’t only assess if it fits our body,” she said, adding that a more important factor could be that the garment complements our personality. She continued: “We assess if the fit shows how we want to present ourselves to the outside world. So a particular narrative [generated by a brand] gives the consumer tools to measure themselves as part of a specific group.” In this sense, Filique de Miranda suggests that the online realm exists as a highly aestheticised world, manifested in the form of webshops, advertising and social media, where everything becomes clickable and shoppable. She noted that problems with this system arise due to business models thriving on the social dependency of their users, putting the user in the dubious position of the decision-maker. Image: Digital Footprint Workshop, process image by participant Chinouk Filique de Miranda “We use digital tools to assert the way we think and also the way we feel,” said Filique de Miranda, in her presentation. “Fashion becomes a communication force that helps us to reveal less about who we are as individuals and more of who we imagine ourselves to be.” Filique de Miranda explores the ways brands use this narrative as a tool to communicate their fashion offering to their audience, taking fashion beyond simply a wearable garment to further influence advertisements, billboards, magazines and the internet. It is through these mediums that fashion can offer consumers a second existence that acts as a commodified identity for individual social establishment. The digital realm only helps with the illusion of appearing Ultimately, Filique de Miranda looks to disentangle this form of communication by fashion brands, to help inform consumers in practising purposeful and reflective actions when making purchase decisions within the digital age. “The digital realm only helps with the illusion of appearing,” she added. “Where we can use interrelated images in a dense and fast network that makes us feel like we are participating in society.” Image: Digital Footprint Workshop, process image by participant Floriane Misslin Her work encourages fashion consumers to critically assess their digital footprint and focus on the actual messages brands are portraying in their communication. By unpacking this topic, Felique de Miranda hopes to assist in reinterpreting these messages to bring more value to fashion communication, than if it were to merely exist as an aesthetic social construct for the digital user. As part of her ongoing research, Filique de Miranda introduced the Digital Footprint Workshop to further highlight her message. The workshop asks participants to analyse and visualise their personal digital environment as a way to experiment with the algorithm. The outcome of the programme is to hopefully generate user awareness in regards to online fashion media and provoke ongoing conversation between the participants. The Responsible Fashion Series, hosted live in Antwerp this week, aims to bring together diverse contributors as a way to offer differing takes on how the fashion system operates. Its international spectrum of participants allows for broader discussions, looking closely at varying cultures and perspectives that could influence a positive change in fashion. This year’s edition posed the question: ‘Can fashion save the world?’, asking contributors to share their views on what parts of the industry need to adapt in order to get closer to a more diverse, inclusive and circular fashion system.
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Genesco appoints chief financial officer

Nashville-based speciality retail and branded company Genesco has appointed Tom George as its new chief financial officer. He is expected to serve in the role until at least March 2024. He has been in the position on an interim basis since December 2020. Earlier in his career, George spent nine years as chief financial officer of footwear company Deckers Brands, during which time the company doubled its revenue and increased its market capitalization fourfold. Earlier in his career, he was chief financial officer of Oakley “[George] has made significant contributions since joining Genesco late last year,” said Mimi E. Vaughn, board chair, president and chief executive of Genesco. “He is an exceptional leader, and his strategic insight, strong financial leadership, and comprehensive knowledge of the footwear industry have been invaluable as we navigate through the end of pandemic.”
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Edited releases latest sustainability report

Image: Edited Facebook Retail intelligence company Edited has released its latest sustainability report. Analysing the evolution of sustainable fashion , the report discusses what measures are being taken by retailers to become more environmentally friendly. Sustainability is becoming increasingly important, the report found, with more retailers converting products to become more ecologically conscious. Mentions of sustainability have also increased 84 percent in emails to consumers since 2019. The report found that sustainable apparel is more expensive, with sustainable menswear priced 12 percent higher than its counterpart, while womenswear was priced 4 percent higher. Other findings showed sustainable home goods rising in popularity, with pieces made out of recycled material or bamboo becoming a staple. Out of the new sustainable products being released, footwear takes up 7 percent in menswear and 3 percent in womenswear. Edited also noted that while there has been a shift towards sustainability, the fast fashion industry has only continued to grow, with new fast fashion product arrivals up by 19 percent since the beginning of the year. The Sustainability Edit also suggests possible steps that retailers can take. “Right now, sustainability is top-of-mind for consumers, but tomorrow the focus could shift so retailers need to be agile and protect their bottom line,” said market analyst for Edited, Kayla Marci. Some suggestions include ending the fashion industries’ reliance on cotton, noting that retailers should begin looking at unconventional materials to create more sustainable clothes. A tight timeline is also needed, the report states, with the next five to ten years being crucial in terms of environmental impact. “Retailers need to revamp their processes,” the report said, “and not rely solely on offsetting excess emissions.”
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Henry Nasella to succeed Manny Chirico as PVH board chairman

Image: Tommy Hilfiger, Facebook PVH Corp has announced that Manny Chirico, chairman of the board of directors, will retire effective December 31, 2021. Henry Nasella, who currently serves as presiding director, will become the independent, non-executive chairman at that time. “This brings to a successful conclusion the succession plan put in place as we transferred leadership to Stefan from Manny. On behalf of the board, we thank Manny for his dedication and support in ensuring a smooth transition, as well as for his leadership as chairman and many contributions to PVH over the course of his career,” said Nasella. Chirico, the company added, was first named to the board in 2006 and became chairman in 2007. He served as the company’s chief executive officer from 2006 until February 2021, when Stefan Larsson succeeded him. Nasella joined PVH’s board of directors in 2003 and has been the presiding director since 2007. “We are deeply grateful to Manny for his leadership and wish him every success in the future,” said Larsson, adding, “Henry has played a critical role as our lead independent director. As we build the next growth chapter for PVH, we look forward to his continued board leadership and contributions based on his deep experience in the retail and consumer sectors.” Commenting on his stint at PVH, Chirico said: “It has been an honor to play a role in PVH’s long and successful history. I am excited about the future of PVH and am certain that under Stefan’s exceptional leadership and the guidance of Henry and the board, the company will continue to be a leader in the fashion industry, guided by its values and focused on driving fashion forward for good for its investors, associates, consumers and other stakeholders around the world.” The number of directors constituting the full board will be decreased to 11 in connection with Chirico’s retirement. Nasella, the company further said, will be eligible to stand for reelection to the board at the 2022 annual meeting of stockholders.
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Chanel's head of external communications steps down

Chanel’s head of external communications, Marie-Louise de Clermont Tonnerre, has stepped down. Tonnerre spent over 50 years at the French fashion house creating the public and press relations departments for three of Chanel’s divisions including fashion, perfumes and cosmetics, and watches and jewelry. She also oversaw the advertising and corporate divisions of Chanel which saw huge growth over the last 25 years. Tonnerre arrived at Chanel in 1971, where her first tasks included building up the photo archive and creating Chanel’s heritage division, referred to as “Conservatoire.” Tonnerre was also responsible for getting Chanel’s flat at 31 rue Cambon classified as a historical monument. Chanel, to this day, is one of the most profitable luxury brands in the business. In 2018, they revealed they are a 10-billion-dollar company. Their valuation is considered so high, they would be difficult to ever be acquired by a luxury conglomerate with ease. The brand is currently owned by the Wertheimer family.
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Partners in talks to acquire stake in Breitling

Image: breitling.com Partners Group Holding AG is in talks to acquire a 25 percent stake in luxury watchmaker Breitling from CVC Capital. The news was reported by Bloomberg. A potential deal could be announced within the coming weeks. The investment could potentially value Breitling at 3.3 billion dollars. Breitling is one of the largest Swiss watch brands in the world that’s still independent. Nothing is set in stone yet, so it is still possible for the deal to fall apart entirely. In 2017, CVC bought a majority stake in Breitling for 931 million dollars. CVC has been working with Rothschild & Co. and GCA Altium to explore sales options for Breitling.
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Christine Boland Live@Lunch inspiration intermezzo: Interior and Colours special

Over your lunch break, get to know everything about the trends in interior (including visual merchandising) and colour for the coming year. Sounds great, right? Tune in at Christine Boland’s recurrent Live@Lunch inspiration intermezzos and - in a short but very inspiring 30 minute session - the renowned trend analyst will provide you with just that. “These Live@Lunch intermezzos are all about taking the time to recharge your creative battery - without it being a time consuming activity”, Christine Boland explains. “Just sit down, have your lunch and be inspired!” One of the 2022’s most striking interior and colour trends Boland taps into during her latest Live@Lunch, is the urge to rewild our own living environment. “We have all recently been obliged to experience the full might of nature’s power. We are thrown back to an existence closer to earth’s core strengths, as well as our own… This finds expression in botanic colours plus materials and design inspired by raw nature, indigenous crafts and native constructions”, says the trend forecaster. Think of the use of clay and its colour gradients, grass-like furniture, moss-like carpets and - more literally - buildings, shops and hotels where trees and plants are blended together in architecture and interior design. Boland: “What makes it so unique for this time and age is that this ‘rewilding’ is blurred with modernism and innovative techniques such as 3D printing.” During the Live@Lunch these and all the other must-know trends are brought to life with clear examples and colour schemes. A full replay of Christine Boland’s latest Live@Lunch is available now for free (normally €29,50), exclusively for FashionUnited. Watch it here. You Register now with this link and be the first to know when Christine Bolands shares more trend insights!
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Video: Kosibah SS22 collection

In this video, fashion label Kosibah has presented its SS22 collection at New York Bridal Fashion Week (NYFW). Watch the video below. Do you want to see more clothing collections? Click here to view the FashionUnited Marketplace. Video: Yemi Osunkoya via YouTube Photo credit: Yemi Osunkoya, YouTube
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Video: Coperni SS22 collection

In this video, fashion label Coperni has presented its SS22 collection at Paris Fashion Week (PFW). Watch the video below. Do you want to see more clothing collections? Click here to view the FashionUnited Marketplace. Video: Coperni via YouTube Photo credit: Gigi Hadid Source, Facebook
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Singer Billie Eilish to launch debut fragrance

Image: courtesy of Parlux; Billie Eilish Beauty Singer and songwriter Billie Eilish is launching her own fragrance with Parlux this November. The 19-year-old star has named her debut fragrance ‘Eilish’ and that her breakthrough into beauty comes from a life-long obsession with scent and a fascination with perfume bottles as a child to collecting hundreds of fragrances as she toured the world. Eilish adds in the press release that she was “intimately involved” in every step of the process to bring to life her first signature fragrance and had “full creative control” from the creative vision to the bottle design, the packaging, the campaign, and of course, the scent itself. The scent is vegan, like Eilish herself, cruelty-free and made with clean ingredients. It is described as a “captivating Amber Gourmand that attracts you with a warm, cozy scent that feels like home no matter where you are”. The fragrance opens with sugared petals, accented by juicy mandarin and red berries. The heart of the scent combines soft spices, rich cocoa, and creamy vanilla, anchored by base notes of warm musks, tonka bean, and sleek woods. Commenting on her first fragrance, Eilish said in a statement: “It’s a scent that I’ve been chasing for years and years and years. It’s my favourite smell in the world. “I wanted it to feel like a warm embrace. Like what it feels like to feel your blood rushing through you.” With regards to the packaging, the bottle was inspired by Eilish’s favourite parts of the body: the chest, neck, and collarbone, and is gilded in amber bronze. Lori Singer, president at Parlux Ltd, added: “Billie Eilish is a singular talent and the voice of a generation. She has a vision in everything she does that is unique, disruptive, and authentically hers. Partnering with Billie was natural for Parlux because we can bring a vision to life like no one else, and we were equally excited to be on this journey together.” Eilish will retail for 68 US dollars, exclusively via the direct-to-consumer website, BillieEilishFragrances.com in November.
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CFDA to honour Zendaya, Anya Taylor-Joy and Model Alliance at CFDA Fashion Awards

Image: Getty Images, Zendaya The Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) has announced its first recipients to be awarded at the upcoming CFDA Fashion Awards, taking place November 10. Euphoria actor Zendaya will be receiving the 2021 Fashion Icon award, in recognition of her numerous red carpet statements created in collaboration with her on-hand stylist, Law Roach. The organisation noted some of her most recent striking looks, including an all-white Rick Owens ensemble from the Dune movie premiere and a bold purple Versace gown sported at the 2021 BET awards. An avid lover of both emerging and established designers, the young actor joins the already esteemed list of past recipients of the award, including Beyonce Knowles, Naomi Campbell and Rihanna. Additionally, the CFDA has declared that Anya Taylor-Joy is to receive the Face of the Year award. Known for her acting role in The Queen’s Gambit, the rising star has graced the covers of a number of distinguished publications, such as Elle, Tatler, L’Officiel and Vanity Fair. The award recognises Taylor-Joy’s prominent role in both entertainment and fashion, stating in the announcement that “it’s impossible to forget Anya Taylor-Joy’s groundbreaking performance”. Image: CFDA, Kanya Iwana The Model Alliance is also set to be honoured at the awards event, receiving the first Positive Social Influence Award. Centred around the protection of labour rights for models in the industry, the organisation, fronted by Sara Ziff, has enabled initiatives that aid in supporting safer and respectful workplaces. It most recently facilitated the representation of a number of models, including Carré Otis, Jill Dodd and Emily Mott, who provided testimonies about the sexual abuse they faced in the industry. The CFDA, who affirmed its support of the organisation, said: “We are extremely pleased to honour the Model Alliance”.
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Carine Roitfeld and Adrian Cheng join forces for major fashion exhibition in Asia

Image: courtesy of Carine Roitfeld/Adrian Cheng Editor and stylist Carine Roitfeld is teaming up with cultural entrepreneur Adrian Cheng on a major fashion exhibition ‘Savoir-Faire: The Mastery of Craft in Fashion,’ opening in Hong Kong on December 13. ‘Savoir-Faire: The Mastery of Craft in Fashion’ will be Asia’s first multi-brand exhibition and will explore the world of craftsmanship in fashion and the importance of preserving treasured atelier traditions, showcasing works of haute couture and prêt-à-porter by brands including Balenciaga, Chanel, Christian Dior, and Givenchy. Conceived by Cheng, the exhibition also marks the first international exhibition curated by Roitfeld. It will feature “rare and masterful works” from acclaimed houses including Schiaparelli, Iris van Herpen, Loewe, Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Tom Ford, Versace, Celine, Oscar de la Renta, and Valentino, alongside avant-garde designers such as Viktor and Rolf, Jean Paul Gaultier, Richard Quinn, Matty Bovan, Mugler, and Tom Van der Borght, as well as one-of-a-kind pieces from Roitfeld’s private collection. Image: courtesy of Chanel The exhibition at the K11 Art and Cultural Centre in Hong Kong will be organised thematically, allowing visitors to discover bespoke and rare pieces of couture craftsmanship while observing, first-hand, the dedication and hours that each Maison requires to produce each piece. ‘Savoir-Faire’ will also be designed to be both “visually and physically immersive,” explained Cheng and Roitfeld in the press release, by taking the audience on a visual journey into the fantastical pages of Roitfeld’s iconic fashion editorials. Image: courtesy of Dior Hong Kong to host ‘Savoir-Faire: The Mastery of Craft in Fashion’ exhibition this winter Commenting on the exhibition, Cheng, founder of K11 Craft and Guild Foundation, said in a statement: “Through the understanding of craftsmanship - the transmission of tradition, ideas, and techniques between societies and culture - fashion has been creating deeply collaborative relationships of connection and exchange. “I am thrilled to be working with Carine to bring forth a potent illustration of the power in craft and artisanship so we may also collectively celebrate its innovation for the future. Together, we bring this unprecedented exhibition to Asia for the first time to rejuvenate the cultural landscape of Hong Kong.” Image: courtesy of Richard Quinn Roitfeld added: “Throughout history, editors have used the pages of magazines as a canvas to bring to life fashion’s most extraordinary ideas and creations By harnessing an editorial approach to the storytelling and visual journey, this exhibition will showcase some of the most exemplary cases of craft in a way that, we hope, motivates a deep appreciation for the history and heart of fashion among the next generation. “These young visitors are inspiring the future of our industry, and I hope that our work serves to spark their imagination, creativity, and commitment to keeping fashion’s most significant techniques alive.” ‘Savoir-Faire: The Mastery of Craft in Fashion’ opens at the K11 Art and Cultural Centre in Hong Kong on December 13, 2021, and runs until February 14, 2022.
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Tusting and Barbour join forces for re-loved partnership

Image: courtesy of Tusting In Pictures British heritage leather company Tusting has launched a collection of unisex bags using pre-loved Barbour jackets and coats. The Barbour Re-Loved in partnership with Tusting collection features three styles, a rucksack, holdall and tote. Each bag is unique, with the collection consisting of just 100 bags, with each one individually numbered. At the heart of the project is a “shared approach to sustainable design,” explains both heritage brands, as all bags have been “designed to last” by being handmade using patchwork panels from the Re-loved Barbour jackets in Tusting’s workshop in Lavendon, Buckinghamshire. Image: courtesy of Tusting Paul Wilkinson, group marketing director at Barbour, said in a statement: “We are delighted to be working with Tusting on this exciting collaboration. Through our recycling/upcycling Re-Loved programme, Tusting has been able to produce these bags utilising wax cotton from Barbour jackets that customers no longer have a need for. Each bag is completely unique, sustainably designed and made to last.” Alistair Tusting, director at Tusting added: “We are so excited to be able to share in this project with Barbour to bring back life to old garments and make these truly unique bags for them. It demonstrates our team’s ability to utilise very varied raw materials and rise to the Re-loved challenge.” Image: courtesy of Tusting Tusting is a family-run, fifth-generation leather goods company. It makes bags for some of the UK’s best-known luxury labels, such as Aston Martin, alongside their eponymous brand. Barbour Re-Loved was first introduced in 2019 and allows customers to return Barbour wax jackets that they no longer have a use for, in exchange for a voucher to redeem against a new jacket. The jackets that have been returned are then upcycled or recycled to give them a new lease of life and sold on to be Re-Loved in a new home. The Barbour Re-loved in Partnership with Tusting collection is available in-store at Selfridges, Oxford Street and online at Barbour.com. Prices range from 129 pounds for the tote to 179 pounds for the backpack and 249 pounds for the holdall. Image: courtesy of Tusting Image: courtesy of Tusting
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At Condé Nast, only fully vaccinated models can grace its covers

Image: Condé Nast Condé Nast, publisher of fashion stalwarts Vogue, GQ, Vanity Fair and Tatler, has implemented a policy that only fully vaccinated models can be featured on its covers and in its magazines. This is in addition to regulations that all employees must be vaccinated, now including talent, freelancers, consultants and any service providers involved on its editorial soots. “Our goal is to ensure that we are making every effort to protect the health of all our employees, contributors and talent by doing everything possible to minimize the chances of contagion,” said a source at the publisher, as reported by WWD. The choice consistently follows what has already been established for the last Met Gala organized at the end of New York fashion week in September. All attendees were requested to show a vaccination certificate, with non-vaccinated rapper Nicki Minaj tweeting: “If I get vaccinated it won’t be for the Met. In the United States, policies vary from publisher to publisher. In August, CNN announced that three unvaccinated employees had not had access to its offices. Others, such as the Wall Street Journal, allow unvaccinated staff to return only with weekly negative swabs and constantly wearing masks.
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Farfetch launches 'positively conscious' private label There Was One

Image: Farfetch There Was One Farfetch on Wednesday unveiled its first private label, a brand called There Was One. The womenswear line consists of 69 styles which are now available on its e-commerce platform. The collection was developed with New Guards Group, the Milan-based contemporary luxury production and distribution holding company group that operates Off-White, Ambush and Palm Angels. Farfetch acquired the group in 2019 for 675 million dollars. Prices for the collection ranges from 985 euros for a double-breasted wool coat to 70 euros for a sleeveless cotton vest and 275 euros for an oversized poplin shirt. The brand will not have its own website There Was One will not have its own website, instead the launch was announced on Farfetch’s social media channels where it introduced the brand as a new line of elevated essentials available only on its platform. Farfetch’s chief brand officer Holli Rogers told BoF the line was informed by consumer shopping data that showed that since the start of the pandemic, customers have been “investing in pieces that would last them possibly a lifetime” and preferring items made with some kind of sustainable element. Three stylists introduced the new wardrobe on Instagram, which aims to answer the question “what do we really need?” The answer appears to be only the necessary, which stylists Ellie Grace Cumming, Karen Binns and Emilie Kareh show in the campaign by dressing three women of their choice. ‘Positively Conscious’ The collection is highlighted as ‘Planet Conscious’ with each style labelled under the moniker ‘Positively Conscious’. Sustainable qualities include items made from a percentage of organic materials, fabrics and trims certified by the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) or upcycling / recycling yarns. While products are not fully broken down by yarn, production method and origins, the manufacturing is done in Italy. Farfetch has not revealed sales projections of its venture into private label selling, but without wholesaling the margins will be considerable higher than the percentage the platform takes from third party retailers and brands. In August the company said it had more brands in development with New Guards Group, of which There Was One is the first to launch. Image: Farfetch There Was One
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Kinnevik to increase investments in its growth portfolio, Q3 NAV improves

Kinnevik’s net asset value amounted to 75.8 billion Swedish krona or 273 Swedish krona per share at the end of the third quarter, down by 0.3 billion Swedish krona or 0.4 percent compared to last quarter, and up by 13.3 billion Swedish krona or 21.3 percent compared to a year ago. The company said in a statement that negative share price developments in Teladoc and Global Fashion Group weighing on the net asset value in the quarter balanced out significant upwards re-valuations of our investments in Cityblock and Betterment. The value of the company’s private portfolio increased by 4.5 billion Swedish krona driven by net revaluations of 2.2 billion Swedish krona and new investments of 2.3 billion Swedish krona. “We continue to strengthen and build out our growth portfolio at a rapid pace to maintain the momentum of our strategic transformation, and note the interest of founders and investors to partner with us. This is a significant recognition of our ability to identify the businesses of tomorrow and be their preferred investor as they grow and shape a re-imagined everyday,” said Georgi Ganev, CEO of Kinnevik. During the third quarter, Kinnevik invested a total of 2.3 billion Swedish krona. 205 million Swedish krona was deployed into the existing businesses. It’s largest followon investments in the quarter were 76 million Swedish krona into Cityblock and 70 million Swedish krona into Betterment. The company added four new companies to the portfolio during the quarter, investing 2.1 billion Swedish krona in total into Lunar, Quit Genius, Spring Health and Sure. Since the start of 2019, Kinnevik has invested 10.9 billion Swedish krona into the growth portfolio and added 14 new businesses across focus sectors and themes. The capital deployed has been split equally between new and existing businesses, driven by an increased number of new investments during 2021. Due to the successful momentum of recent quarters, financed by the material capital releases from VillageMD and Tele2, the company now expects to invest around 6 billion Swedish krona in total during 2021, and plans to add new companies to the growth portfolio also during the fourth quarter.
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Versace CEO Jonathan Akeroyd to take the helm at Burberry

Image: Burberry Burberry has announced the appointment of Jonathan Akeroyd as chief executive officer and executive director, effective April 1, 2022. A British national, Akeroyd, 54, is currently chief executive officer of Milan-based Gianni Versace SpA, a position he has held since June 2016. The company said in a statement that in his tenure at Versace, Jonathan has reorganised and accelerated growth at the iconic Italian fashion house, building on the brand’s rich creative heritage to elevate product, communications and the customer experience. He will join Burberry on April 1, 2022 and will report to chair Gerry Murphy and the board of directors. Commenting on Akeroyd’s appointment, Gerry Murphy said: “I am delighted that Jonathan Akeroyd will be joining Burberry as our next chief executive officer. Jonathan is an experienced leader with a strong track record in building global luxury fashion brands and driving profitable growth. He shares our values and our ambition to build on Burberry’s unique British creative heritage and his deep luxury and fashion industry expertise will be key to advancing the next phase of Burberry’s evolution.” Jonathan Akeroyd to take over as the next Burberry CEO Akeroyd was previously chief executive officer of Alexander McQueen from 2004 to 2016, during which time he led a turnaround of the British luxury brand and laid the foundation for global expansion. He has also held a number of senior fashion roles at London-based luxury department store Harrods. “I am honoured to be joining Burberry as chief executive officer. I have long admired Burberry’s position as the most iconic British luxury brand and I have a deep affection for its storied heritage. I am looking forward to returning to London where I first built my career in the luxury industry to join a talented team with ambitious plans for the future and a strong platform to accelerate growth,” added Akeroyd. Akeroyd will succeed Marco Gobbetti, who is stepping down from the role and leave Burberry on December 31, 2021. Murphy will chair the Executive Committee from this date until Akeroyd joins Burberry.
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Express CFO Perry Pericleous steps down

Image: Express, Facebook Fashion apparel retailer Express, Inc. has announced the departure of the company’s senior vice president, chief financial officer and treasurer, Perry Pericleous, effective November 12, 2021. Pericleous, the company said, is leaving Express to pursue another opportunity. “I want to thank Perry for his many years of service to Express, his support in helping to advance the Expressway Forward strategy, and the important role he played in partnership with Matt to strengthen the company’s liquidity position and secure the financial health of the company throughout the pandemic,” said Tim Baxter, the company’s chief executive officer in a release. The company has begun a search for a new chief financial officer, and president & chief operating officer Matthew Moellering will serve as acting chief financial officer in the interim, along with his existing responsibilities. Moellering has served as the company’s president and chief operating officer since September 2019. He also served as interim president and interim chief executive officer from January 2019 to June 2019, and was the company’s chief financial officer and treasurer from 2007 to 2011.
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Tom Ford Plastic Innovation Prize announces judges and early buyers

Image: courtesy of Tom Ford Plastic Innovation Prize The Tom Ford Plastic Innovation Prize, worth over 1 million US dollars, has announced that Stella McCartney, Don Cheadle and Livia Firth have joined the judging panel, as well as a network of partners who will trial the winning innovations as early adopters. The material science competition, created by Tom Ford in partnership with Lonely Whale’s 52HZ, is looking for inventors, entrepreneurs and “those invested in the fight against plastic pollution” to accelerate meaningful innovation by creating a sustainable and biodegradable alternative to thin-film plastic. British fashion designer Stella McCartney has not only joined the judging panel but has also agreed to help scale and implement the winning thin-film plastic alternatives in the market. Stella McCartney, Tom Ford International, Dell Technologies, GoSili, HP Inc, Herman Miller, Imperial Dade, LeClub and ROQ, have all committed to trialling these sustainable materials for their packaging solutions Each company will conduct trials to help prize competitors develop industry partnerships and validate their materials. Should the materials meet the specifications of each company, these companies will then evaluate opportunities to purchase and incorporate the material across their supply chains, added the prize organisers in a statement. Tom Ford Plastic Innovation Prize announces network of partners to help scale and trial winning innovations Stacey Feeley, chief executive at GoSili, Inc, said in a statement: “The time for sustainable change in plastic packaging is now and we must take steps to implement the solutions. Through partnerships, challenges, science and curiosity we push each other to innovate and hold each other accountable to the world around us. “We are excited to support the Tom Ford Plastic Innovation finalists and cannot wait to see what the future holds to replace plastic pollution.” Page Motes, global head of corporate sustainability at Dell Technologies, added: “The solution to plastic waste is out there, and it’s up to companies like ours to not only find alternatives but to scale them for maximum environmental impact. “We’re so excited to see the range of ideas presented by the finalists and look forward to trialling their solutions to help reach our 2030 sustainability goals.” Tom Ford Plastic Innovation Prize closes submissions on October 24 Thin-film plastic currently makes up 46 percent of the approximately 14 million metric tons of plastic that sits on the ocean floor and is virtually impossible to extract, explains organisers of the competition. Just two products - single-use resealable sandwich storage bags and plastic polybags used by the fashion industry - represent more than 300 billion thin-film plastic bags disposed of annually. The Tom Ford Plastic Innovation Prize aims to enable competition finalists and adopters to bring sustainable alternatives to thin-film plastic. Since opening in May, it has received more than 170 applications from 39 countries and six continents, with submissions closing on October 24. Competition finalists will be selected in early 2022, with winners announced in early 2023. Tom Ford and 52HZ have put together a prize purse of more than 1 million US dollars for three years of accelerator services to the competition winners after they are selected. The Plastic Innovation Prize will also offer dedicated support to help finalists reach scale and market adoption by 2025. Lonely Whale chief executive, Dr Dune Ives, added: “With today’s announcement we are more confident than ever that the Tom Ford Plastic Innovation Prize will be successful beyond our initial expectations. “The addition of these incredible judges, advisors and companies willing to test the finalists’s products with the intent to purchase those materials post competition, increases the confidence of potential applicants as well as future investors.” Stella McCartney, Don Cheadle and Livia Firth join judging panel of Tom Ford Plastic Innovation Prize Finalists will be selected by a panel of leaders in the environmental and fashion industries. Joining Stella McCartney, Don Cheadle and Livia Firth will be Ellen Jackowski, chief impact officer and head of sustainable impact at HP Inc., James Andrews, founder of Authenticated Ventures, John John Florence, two-time World Champion Surfer and Olympian, and Steven Kolb, chief executive officer of the Council of Fashion Designers America. In addition, the prize has added two new scientific and technical advisory board members - Tom Bebien of Plastic Odyssey and Andy Johnson of ROQ.US. Steven Kolb, chief executive officer of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, said: “The support provided through the Tom Ford Plastic Innovation Prize will prove vital to accelerating safe material alternatives to petroleum-based plastics that are so detrimental to the ocean, the land, and our climate. If we are to reach our climate and waste ambition, we need new packaging solutions now.”
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Very Group reports record full-year revenue as profits grow

Image: Very Group The Very Group has reported record full-year sales driven by strong revenue at its namesake Very brand. Group revenue grew 13 percent to a record 2.32 billion pounds in the 12 months to July 3, driven by a 24.9 percent jump in retail sales to 1.54 billion pounds. Very revenue was up 18.2 percent to 1.88 billion pounds. Meanwhile, group profit before tax increased by 68.8 percent to 81.7 million pounds thanks to a strong performance by Very and improved cost management. App sales were up 45 percent, boosted by “a more personalised, intuitive app experience”. The group’s customer base increased by 7.6 percent to 4.82 million, thanks in part to a 12.4 percent increase at its Very brand to 3.82 million. Exec changes The company also bolstered its executive team during the year, hiring former BBC technology director Matt Grest as chief information officer and naming former Fenwick CEO Robbie Feather, who will join in late 2021, as its retail managing director. “I am pleased to report outstanding group performance, including record revenue, continued profit growth and strong cashflow generation,” said group CEO Henry Birch in a statement. Very Group’s underlying EBITDA increased 13.7 percent to 300.5 million pounds. Birch added that the current environment is “not without challenge”, but said the group’s performance during the pandemic proved its multi-category offer “relevant to an increasingly wide number of customers”. Looking forward, he said the group is in “good shape to face any future uncertainty”, and remains confident it is “well-positioned to take advantage of a market and customer behaviour that is moving towards our model”. The trading update comes amid rumours of a potential upcoming IPO by the Liverpool-headquartered group. In August, Sky News reported that Very Group had lined up Barclays, Morgan Stanley and UBS to spearhead a potential flotation on the stock market, which could take place next year.
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Première Vision Paris unveils the key trends of Autumn/Winter 2022-23

Credit: Première Vision Trade show Première Vision took place physically in Paris last month, showcasing the key trends to keep in mind for Autumn/Winter 2022-23. FashionUnited analyses the main themes of the season and why they’re particularly relevant to the modern consumer, from eco-responsibility and compelling textures to comfort and daring styles. Eco-responsibility and circular economy The autumn/winter 2022-23 season will see a growing emphasis on eco-conscious fabrics and a more responsible approach to production. The industry’s desire to be innovative doesn’t only involve products, but their whole life cycle, ranging from design to packaging. Whether we’re looking at solutions that have a low environmental impact or reduce the use of resources such as water and energy, the next winter season focuses on offering optimal sustainability. Style is still at the centre of it all, but is more conscious: manufacturers, weavers and spinners update their methods to embrace an authentic sustainability. Première Vision introduced the notion of ‘eco-ingenuity’ to tackle this new way of envisioning fashion. Credit: Première Vision All in the details Product development constitutes the starting point of many innovations. For the next season, we’ll see a focus on fabrics and textures - they speak to our senses and are imagined with technical performances in mind. Sustainable innovations are not to be forgotten as new materials make their way to the collections, too - think eco-designs, unique properties and details that meet ethical criteria. This trend is based on qualitative materials that come with innovative features. Première Vision mentioned recurring themes such as ‘sumptuous authenticity’, ‘architected allure’ and ‘essential opulence’. Credit: Première Vision Style meets comfort At a time when consumers are still hesitating between full-on loungewear and over-the-top looks, hybrids seem to be a fitting answer. Première Vision has spotted this growing trend, which mixes style and use to match our lifestyles. Well-being and easy comfort are key - they blur the lines between formality and less dressy attires. Casual takes centre stage: we’re thinking oversized tailoring, comfortable structured jackets, flowy and unrestrictive tops as well as stretchy bottoms, trompe-l’oeil effects and leather impressions. Tech also takes part in the concept, with Première Vision introducing the notions of ‘alter couture’ and ‘offbeat jacquards’ in its ‘Sport & Tech’ trend report. Credit: Première Vision Bold and daring No matter if customers opt for casual and informal styles, powerful dressing will stick around. Daring styles and bold and bright details are updated to pack a punch and uplift any casual or minimalistic outfit, chief among them shiny trims, sequins and vibrant contrasts. Joy is back in our wardrobes for the autumn/winter 2022-23 season with the help of mysterious colour palettes and decorative craftsmanship details. Première Vision spotted several topics that will surely illustrate this trend - they’re dubbed ‘golden power’, ‘compulsively expressive’ and ‘raw romance’ to name a few. Credit: Première Vision
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Free the body: three New York brands that speak to Gen Z

Maryam Nassir Zadeh, photo by ANDRES ALTAMIRANO (DLX agency) Launched between 2011 and 2013, New York brands Maryam Nassir Zadeh, Eckhaus Latta and Vaquera have showcased last month their spring-summer 2022 collections at New York Fashion Week. The three of them have been referred to as “emerging designers” over the last few years and now embrace a body positivity that speaks to Gen Z: emancipation and inclusivity. FashionUnited dives into a trend that’s here to stay. Second skin body At the beginning of September in the streets of New York, Maryam Nassir Zadeh, Eckhaus Latta and Vaquera’s shows featured models striding down the runway with skin showing: breasts, chests and thighs were bare or delicately covered by see-through fabrics. But styles were far from the porn-chic era and the sexualised bodies of the noughties. “We use skin as a fabric and not as an inappropriate unveiling,” explains trends consultant Fériel Karoui. Eckaus Latta, Photo by Rob Kulisek (DLX agency) The idea of showing more skin might not come onto the streets in the near future, but it stands for values that are close to Gen Z and Millennials. Indeed, the younger generations are “usually at the heart of cultural shifts,” says Karoui. “We’re talking about sensuality, liberation, empowerment and emancipation”, she adds. For her, “these are also topics we didn’t want to tackle right after the #metoo movement. We were in a more modest era, we used to talk more about our relationship with seduction, women and body consciousness. Today, we stand for self affirmation when we show parts of our body, it’s more about making a statement than being sexualised, about sensuality more than sexual object.” Maryam Nassir Zadeh, photo by ANDRES ALTAMIRANO (DLX agency) Authentic genderfluidity Questioning how we present our body is largely linked to gender codes - they’ve been questioned over the last few years mostly on social media by teenagers looking to identify themselves in better ways. Since the beginning, Eckhaus Latta and Vaquera have included the no-gender notion in their experimental DNA. They’ve been forerunners: these brands appear as real activists for change, ready to speak sincerely to the young generations. Indeed, they tend to prefer “real talk” according to Nelly Rodi’s inspiration director Vincent Grégoire. In the three brands’ spring-summer 2022 shows, revealing a naked body has been seen as progressive. Both women’s and men’s legs, breasts and chests were bare. Eckaus Latta presented masculine silhouettes made of knitted mini shorts, open and cut-out tank tops. At Maryam Nassir Zadeh, shirts were open to show the chest and flowy silk and cotton pieces were donned by all. Eckaus Latta, Photo by Don Ashby et Rob Kulisek (DLX agency) Even when models didn’t walk down the runway with bare skin, transparency was still present to emphasise a genderless and anti-conformist wardrobe. At Eckhaus Latta, men wore delicate tops and trousers close to womenswear while at Vaquera see-through bras were worn by men to make for gender-neutral looks. Vaquera chose to highlight its models’ subversive side by making them walk in a hurry - a way to state that we definitely are in a rush to destroy any preconceived codes. Actor Jaden Smith recently pinpointed in a Cheatsheet Magazine interview that despite a growing genderless wardrobe on the runway, it’s still an issue for a young boy to sport a skirt at school. The Critical Pulse confirmed, “a man sporting a dress or skirt can always be associated with an LGBTQ+ stereotype, which is not necessarily what these men want.” MADISON VOELKEL, COURTESY OF MARYAN NASSIR ZADEH / COURTESY OF VAQUERA (DLX agency) However, it seems that this season might simply want to stand for freedom - a way to embrace post-lockdown months. “We’re deconfining bodies,” says Karoui on the phone. Irony? Not that much. When explaining the concept behind his spring-summer 2022 collection to Vogue Italia, designer Eckaus Latta said his goal was to, “feel like ourselves, finally get out of this period of time and feel sexy, confident and free.” Maryam Nassir Zadeh, photo by ANDRES ALTAMIRANO (agence DLX) / Eckaus Latta, Photo by Rob Kulisek (DLX agency)
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Bangladesh’s Denim Expert garment manufactuer continues to empower transgender workers

Denim Expert Limited Even in today’s world of rainbow flags and inclusivity acronyms becoming longer and longer, being transgender is no cakewalk, more often, it seems like a catwalk gone wrong with a rather hostile audience, on a daily basis. Jeans maker Denim Expert Ltd. in Chittagong, Bangladesh wants to change that and has been hiring transgender employees, aided by sexual minorities campaigning organisation Bandhu Social Welfare Society. “After talking to Bandhu, it became obvious to me that integration is key,” said Denim Expert’s founder and CEO Mostafiz Uddin about the empowerment initiative. “Members of the transgender community must be given the opportunity to find gainful employment and in doing so, contribute to society and to the nation as a whole.” Since September 2018 and as the first company in Bangladesh to take steps towards transgender inclusion, Denim Expert has been hiring from Bangladesh’s 10,000 member strong transgender community with the help of Bandhu, which was established in 1996. This has changed many lives. “Having joined the company, I feel more respected by society,” said Dilruba Akther who is working as a junior supervisor in the housekeeping team. The gainful employment has also improved things with her family. “Before I joined Denim Expert Ltd., my family disrespected me and did not communicate with me but now we have regular contact.” Because of their marginalisation in society, transgenders do not have many means to make a living apart from begging on the streets or worse. Organisations like Bandhu encourage them to pick up skills and stand their ground when applying for jobs. “I feel proud that I am now an employee in the Bangladesh garment sector. The job has brought honour to my life and I no longer have to rely on the charity of others,” said Shima Akthar who was hired at Denim Expert as a junior safety assistant on the production floor in 2018. The integration of members of the transgender community into the garment industry has added diversity and much needed employment to a stigmatised section of the nation’s population. Since then, Denim Expert’s efforts have been recognised: The company received an Alternative Livelihood Award from the Bandhu Social Welfare Society in 2019 and was named a “New Champion” by the World Economic Forum in 2020.
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Harrods owner reportedly in talks to buy Selfridges

Image: Selfridges The Qatar sovereign wealth fund, which owns Harrods and the Printemps store in Paris, is reportedly looking to snap up another iconic department store, Selfridges. The Qatar Investment Authority has emerged as the front-runner to purchase the company from its billionaire owners, The Mail on Sunday reports, citing sources with knowledge of the negotiations. It is understood that the discussions have included the possibility of buying only the Selfridges department stores, and not its other businesses, including Brown Thomas and Arnotts in Ireland, Holt Renfrew in Canada, and de Bijenkorf in the Netherlands. But the talks are reportedly not exclusive, with the possibility remaining that a rival bidder might snap up the company. Selfridges owners eye 4 billion pound price tag It follows reports in July that Selfridges' billionaire owners kicked off a formal auction for the company, calling in advisers from investment bank Credit Suisse to “imminently” send out information memoranda to prospective buyers. The Weston family were reportedly seeking at least 4 billion pounds for the sale, and hoped a deal could be struck by the end of the year. Selfridges was founded in 1908 by Harry Gordon Selfridge and was purchased in 2003 by the Weston family in a 598 million pound deal. The reins of the Selfridges group were handed over from the late WG Galen Weston to his daughter Alannah two years ago. Like many physical retailers, Selfridges was hit hard by the pandemic. In July last year, the company announced it would be cutting its workforce by 14 percent - or around 450 roles - to cut costs.
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Video: Situationist at Paris Fashion Week

In this video, fashion label Situationist has presented its SS22 collection at Paris Fashion Week (PFW). Watch the video below. Do you want to see more clothing collections? Click here to view the FashionUnited Marketplace. Video: Situationist via YouTube Photo credit: Situationist, Facebook
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Video: Rochas SS22 collection

In this video, fashion label Rochas has presented its SS22 collection at Paris Fashion Week (PFW). Watch the video below. Do you want to see more clothing collections? Click here to view the FashionUnited Marketplace. Video: FF Channel via YouTube Photo credit: Rochas, Facebook
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Video: Ujoh at PFW

In this video, fashion label Ujoh has presented its SS22 collection at Paris Fashion Week (PFW). Watch the video below. Do you want to see more clothing collections? Click here to view the FashionUnited Marketplace. Video: Ujoh Official via YouTube Photo credit: Ekaterina Galkina, Facebook
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Video: Litkovskaya SS22 collection

In this video, fashion label Litkovskaya has presented its SS22 collection at Paris Fashion Week (PFW). Watch the video below. Do you want to see more clothing collections? Click here to view the FashionUnited Marketplace. Video: Litkovskaya Official via YouTube Photo credit: Iryna Danylevska, Facebook
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