OTB appoints two new executives to board

Image: Jill Sander Fashion group OTB, whose portfolio includes Diesel, Jill Sander and Viktor & Rolf, has appointed Arabella Ferrari and Carlo Purassanta to its board of directors. Ferrari has 25 years of experience in cosmetics and currently works as senior vice president of the global marketing and make-up business unit of Intercos, where she is also a member of the board of directors. Purassanta has been president of Microsoft France since 2017, and previously spent 15 years at IBM France and Europe. He has also held senior positions in Confindustria, at the American Chamber of Commerce in Italy and at the Politecnico of Milan. In the same announcement, OTB confirmed three previous board members: chairman Renzo Rosso, CEO Ubaldo Minelli, and director Stefano Rosso. Rosso said in a release: “I am delighted to welcome these two important new members to the board of directors of OTB, whom I personally sought to secure. “Arabella Ferrari has wide international experience and is one of the most highly regarded names in the beauty industry, a sector closely linked to the luxury goods business. Carlo Purassanta, who has already made an important contribution to Diesel’s digital drive, will now bring his experience to the digital transformation of the whole group.”
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H&M launches its first rental service in the US with ONE/SECOND/SUIT

Courtesy of H&M Swedish fast-fashion brand H&M has launched its first-ever sustainable rental initiative in the US, called ONE/SECOND/SUIT, offering a free suit rental. The program initially launched in the UK on April 15, 2021, and is now available in the US for a trial period of three months. The initiative aims to increase confidence in a job interview environment and includes a free, 24-hour suit rental as a more sustainable option to purchasing. Sara Spännar, H&M head of marketing and communications, said in a release: “Job interviews can be a nerve-wracking experience. But we believe nothing should hold you back. Least of all what you wear.” “The ONE/SECOND/SUIT is ready-to-wear confidence. A signal to the world and a reminder to yourself that you’ve got what it takes.” Courtesy of H&M The film plays on the nerves and self-doubt that many are confronted with on the first day of a big job interview. An emotional call from a mom gives the cast - dressed in ONE/SECOND/SUIT - the encouragement they need before an interview. The film director, Mark Romanek, is best known for his psychological feature film One Hour Photo, starring Robin Williams. His iconic music videos have also won over 20 MTV Video Music Awards and 3 Grammy awards - more than any other director. Courtesy of H&M
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OTB appoints two new executives to board

Image: Jill Sander Fashion group OTB, whose portfolio includes Diesel, Jill Sander and Viktor & Rolf, has appointed Arabella Ferrari and Carlo Purassanta to its board of directors. Ferrari has 25 years of experience in cosmetics and currently works as senior vice president of the global marketing and make-up business unit of Intercos, where she is also a member of the board of directors. Purassanta has been president of Microsoft France since 2017, and previously spent 15 years at IBM France and Europe. He has also held senior positions in Confindustria, at the American Chamber of Commerce in Italy and at the Politecnico of Milan. In the same announcement, OTB confirmed three previous board members: chairman Renzo Rosso, CEO Ubaldo Minelli, and director Stefano Rosso. Rosso said in a release: “I am delighted to welcome these two important new members to the board of directors of OTB, whom I personally sought to secure. “Arabella Ferrari has wide international experience and is one of the most highly regarded names in the beauty industry, a sector closely linked to the luxury goods business. Carlo Purassanta, who has already made an important contribution to Diesel’s digital drive, will now bring his experience to the digital transformation of the whole group.”
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Wardrobe Crisis Academy launches online sustainable fashion course

courtesy of Wardrobe Crisis Academy Wardrobe Crisis Academy is launching a six-week introductory online course designed to “shake up” sustainable fashion education. The sustainable fashion platform states it is targeting broader sustainable fashion education with its online course, describes as “accessible” and “engaging” to offer a foundational knowledge of the issues driving sustainable and ethical fashion today. Sustainable Fashion 101 marks the Wardrobe Crisis Academy’s first course and is launching in partnership with sustainable materials company Arch and Hook, and the Australian Fashion Council. Available online and accessible globally, the course will be led by Wardrobe Crisis Academy founder and sustainable fashion expert Clare Press, alongside industry thought-leaders including Tom Szaky, founder of TerraCycle, Claire Bergkamp, chief operating officer of Textile Exchange, and fashion professor Timo Rissanen. The course will be taught in English in an “engaging, interactive, mixed-media format,” explains the Wardrobe Crisis Academy, through videos, podcasts, workshops and even meditations and asks students to plan 2-3 hours each week. Themes covered in the course will include workers’ rights, fashion’s relationship with nature, materials, waste and the circular economy, and will provide students with tools to take positive action. New accessible sustainable fashion course launching at Wardrobe Crisis Academy Wardrobe Crisis Academy is aiming the course at anyone wanting to “upskill” on sustainable fashion, “whether they work in the industry, aspire to, or simply love clothes”. Commenting on the debut course, Press, said in a statement: “We’re different to what’s already there. These courses demystify the science, data and complexities of big issues like climate and social justice. They ‘speak fashion’ - so they look gorgeous. And they give you access - we’ve got some awesome internationally recognised teachers and experts on board.” Neda Eneva, Arch and Hook global marketing director, added: “Wardrobe Crisis Academy is setting an exciting precedent in providing an accessible, engaging and holistic overview of sustainability challenges and approach for fashion and retail. “The course gives clear actions on how to drive change – which is why Arch and Hook is such a proud supporter of this educational initiative.” Sustainable Fashion 101 starts on May 20, with lessons published weekly on Thursdays until term one finishes on June 27. The course will cost 55 US dollars / 45 euros for unlimited access, and for Australian Fashion Council members, it will be free. Leila Naja Hibri, chief executive of the Australian Fashion Council, said of the course: “Sustainable Fashion 101 is exactly what our industry has been asking for: a clear and fun way to learn about sustainability in fashion and beyond.” Wardrobe Crisis Academy has plans to launch three further courses by the end of the year.
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Safilo's Q1 sales improve 20 percent

Carrera website In the first quarter of 2021, Safilo posted total net sales of 251.4 million euros, up 20 percent at constant exchange and 13.7 percent at current exchange rates. The company said that the positive sales performance reflected the strong recovery recorded by the group across the brands portfolio, from the strong growth of its own brands Smith and Carrera, to the rebound of its licenses, in particular Hugo Boss, Tommy Hilfiger, Kate Spade and Jimmy Choo. Commenting on the Q1 performance, Angelo Trocchia, Safilo chief executive officer, said: “We are pleased about this very positive start to the year, which saw our Q1 sales and economic results exceed the first quarter of 2019. Despite a still mixed macro picture in Europe and uncertainty concerning the evolution of the summer season, we are on track to deliver a solid second-quarter, again backed by the strength of the United States, the online business, and by the progress of a number of emerging countries.” Highlights of Safilo’s first quarter results The company added that by product and channel, Q1 sales were once more largely driven by the strong growth recorded by prescription frames, and by Smith’s sport products through its D2C and sport channels. Safilo’s online business grew 164 percent driven by the contribution of Blenders’ e-commerce, up 79 percent, the growth of Smith’s D2C channel, and the group’s sales generated through internet pure players. In Q1, Safilo’s North America sales totalled 119.1 million euros, up 53.8 percent at constant exchange rates and 41.1 percent at current exchange rates. Total net sales in North America were up 41.8 percent at constant exchange rates compared to Q1 2019. Safilo’s European sales equalled 101.5 million euros, down 5 percent at constant exchange rates and 5.8 percent at current exchange rates compared to Q1 2020. Net sales in Europe were down 17.8 percent at constant exchange rates compared to Q1 2019. The group’s sales in China and Australia confirmed the significant growth trajectory recorded in the second half of 2020. In Q1 2021, Safilo’s sales in Asia Pacific equalled 13 million euros, down 10.8 percent at constant exchange rates and 13 percent at current exchange rates compared to Q1 2020. Net sales in Asia Pacific were down 25.3 percent at constant exchange rates compared to Q1 2019. Safilo’s sales in the rest of the world equalled 17.8 million euros, up 40.6 percent at constant exchange and 26.6 percent at current exchange rates compared to Q1 2020. Net sales in the region were up 26.5 percent at constant exchange rates compared to Q1 2019. Safilo posts improvement in Q1 operating performance First quarter gross profit stood at 126.6 million euros, with the margin on sales at 50.4 percent compared to 49.5 percent in Q1 2020 and 52.7 percent in Q1 2019. Reported EBITDA equalled 13.4 million euros, with the margin on sales at 5.3 percent compared to 1.5 percent in Q1 2020 and 7.6 percent in Q1 2019. On an adjusted basis, gross profit stood at 131.2 million euros, with the margin on sales at 52.2 percent, while the EBITDA equalled 25.8 million euros, marking an increase compared to 5.8 million euros in Q1 2020 and 29.4 percent growth compared to the adjusted EBITDA of 20 million euros recorded in Q1 2019. The adjusted EBITDA margin rose to 10.3 percent from 2.6 percent in Q1 2020 and 8.1 percent in Q1 2019. Safilo said, in the month of April, sales trends remained strong, still driven by outstanding growth in the United States, in the online business and by the progress of a number of emerging countries. Retail restrictions and the uncertainties surrounding stores re-openings in some countries instead prevented a material rebound in Europe. Based on the current visibility on the order book, the group expects its total net sales for the second quarter to normalize compared to the exceptional Covid-19 related decline recorded in the second quarter of last year, aiming to slightly surpass Q2 2019 at constant exchange rates.
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Burberry posts Q4 comparable sales growth driven by Asia Pacific and Americas

Burberry news Burberry’s retail sales declined 9 percent at both CER and reported exchange rates, while wholesale declined 17 percent at CER and reported exchange rates in the year with a good recovery in the second half. In total, the group saw revenue down 10 percent at CER and 11 percent at reported exchange rates to 2,344 million pounds. Comparable store sales grew 32 percent in the fourth quarter, down 5 percent against Q4 FY19 as the company began to anniversary the impact from the pandemic and with a sequential acceleration in sales in Asia Pacific and Americas whilst EMEIA remained impacted by lockdowns. The company said in a release that group adjusted operating profit fell 8 percent at CER, with a strong recovery in H2 rising by 48 percent following the 71 percent decline in H1. Gross margin increased in the year by 270bps CER and 260bps reported. Reported operating profit increased 176 percent. The company has reinstated full year dividend at FY19 levels of 42.5p on the back of strong cash generation. “In the last three years we have transformed our business and built a new Burberry, anchored firmly in luxury. In spite of Covid-19, we achieved our objectives for the period and delivered a strong set of results in FY21, ending the year with good full-price sales growth,” said Marco Gobbetti, Burberry’s chief executive officer. Review of Burberry’s Q4 and full year performance The company’s comparable store sales declined 9 percent, while Burberry said, underlying performance was strong with full-price sales growth of 7 percent offset by store closures and a significant reduction in tourist traffic due to Covid-19, together with the planned reduction in markdown activity in the second half of the year. Asia Pacific sales grew by 18 percent, led by Mainland China and Korea. Mainland China saw strong double-digit growth with comparable store sales accelerating in the fourth quarter to 53 percent against FY19 driven by the Lunar New Year campaign. Korea also delivered double-digit percentage growth with a significant improvement in comparable store sales in the last quarter of the year. South Asia Pacific (SAP) declined by a double-digit percentage, affected by limited tourist traffic and airport store closures. Japan also fell, impacted by a lack of international travel, while EMEIA fell by 44 percent year on year. The company added that continental Europe saw a decline broadly in line with the regional average; however, local spend returned to growth from the second quarter. The UK remained challenged with London performance weak given high tourist exposure. Middle East returned to growth in the second half of the year. Americas saw a robust performance in full-price sales from Q2 FY21, increasing 17 percent in the year. Burberry reports full-price sales growth across product categories The company further said that product performance was impacted by the pandemic with a shift towards casualisation and evergreen items, outerwear was driven by strong performance in coats and jackets, quilts and downs with exceptional performance in Mainland China and Korea. Within Ready-to-wear, tops and bottoms continued to outperform. Leather goods remained a key focus in FY21 with the new bag pillars performing well. Digital full-price sales saw high double digit percentage growth across all categories with a particularly strong performance in accessories driven by leather goods and shoes. In FY21, the company opened 17 stores and closed 23 stores. Key openings included 13 in Mainland China including the first social retail store in Shenzhen Bay. Licensing revenue fell 19 percent at reported exchange rates due to lower sales from the Covid-19 fallout. Burberry expects to post high single digit CAGR Taking FY20 as the base year, Burberry expects revenue to grow at a high single digit percentage compound annual growth rate at FY21 CER in the medium term underpinned by the continued outperformance of full-price sales. The company plans to continue to strengthen brand equity by exiting markdowns in mainline stores in FY22, which the company said is a headwind against the comparable store sales growth amounting to a mid-single digit percentage in the full year. Burberry added that in FY22 adjusted operating margin progression will be impacted by operating expense normalisation and increased investment to accelerate growth, with more meaningful margin accretion thereafter.
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Gap declares Q2 dividend

Gap newsroom Gap’s board of directors has authorized a second quarter dividend of 12 cents per share, payable on or after July 28, 2021 to shareholders of record at the close of business on July 7, 2021. Additionally, Gap Inc. announced the resumption of its share repurchase program, which has 800 million dollars of its 1 billion dollars authorization remaining. Subject to market conditions and other considerations, the company currently intends to repurchase up to 200 million dollars of shares under the program in the remainder of fiscal year 2021.
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A brand is a promise, and you have to fulfill that promise, says Jaclyn Smith

Jaclyn Smith Jaclyn Smith was a pioneer in the world of celebrity clothing lines. She signed with Kmart in 1985 to create apparel and accessories and the line still resonates with consumers today, holding firm as one of the retailer’s most reliable brands. Meanwhile other celebrity lines have come and gone––Sarah Jessica Parker, Miley Cyrus, Avril Lavigne, Jennifer Lopez, LL Cool J, Lindsay Lohan, even Beyonce have cut their losses on once-promising ventures. Smith’s longevity in the fickle apparel industry is almost without precedent. So, what’s her secret? In a conversation hosted by Joe’s Black Book, she explains that it is her connection to the consumer and her commitment to the promise to design for their needs that she made over 35 years ago. “Are they going to like it and why do they like it?” are the questions that continue to drive her. In a pre-Instagram era she found store appearances satisfying, enjoying the opportunity to shake hands with her customers. “We grew together,” she says. Jaclyn Smith on 35 years of retail success “It’s not easy designing for the masses,” admits Smith. “It has to have a look that meets many people’s needs.” But after three decades of brand building, she points to one reason for her continued appeal in such a oversaturated market: “Your brand needs its own DNA. Then it’s yours. It will evolve and your customer will follow you.” Smith’s status as a pioneering figure goes back to the mid-70s when she starred in the TV show Charlie’s Angels as one of an all-girl trio of private detectives. A female leading cast was groundbreaking at the time, but Smith was the only one to remain for all five seasons. She looks back on the bond between the women with fondness. Loyalty and integrity are words that crop up throughout the discussion on her career. Contracts were signed based on respect for the people she worked with, but when asked how to navigate those weighty contract negotiations, she advises, “Bring in somebody smarter than you.” While her empire now includes skincare, wigs, home furnishings, Smith stresses that her initial deal with Kmart wasn’t about money but about wanting to do something different and creative. Peers questioned the wisdom of launching a line when she could just do like other celebrities were doing and simply endorse existing brands. She considers it one of the wisest moves she ever made. “Go out on a limb,” she says. “That’s where the fruit is.” So she asked Kmart for total involvement and they gave it to her. “I knew it would be an education for me,” says Smith, who credits the retailer with its vision. She believes creativity comes from freedom, and giving credit to everyone involved plays a big part in how she does business. Fashion editor Jackie Mallon is also an educator and author of Silk for the Feed Dogs, a novel set in the international fashion industry Photo Kmart.com
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Hearst sells Marie Claire US to Future Media

Image: Hearst Tower, the Hearst Corporation’s company headquarters in Manhattan, New York City. Marie Claire Magazine US has been acquired by London-based Future Media, Plc. Up until now, the publishing rights for the online and print edition of Marie Claire US were divided between Marie Claire Group International and international publishing group Hearst Magazines, via a joint venture. Future Media will now own 100 percent of the joint venture responsible for the publication of the US magazine. Marie Claire US will be added to the UK media group’s growing magazine portfolio over the next five years, which includes its UK counterpart, Marie Claire UK. Hearst Magazines is currently one of the main publishing houses internationally. It owns well-known publications such as Elle, Harper’s Bazaar, Esquire, and Men’s Health. The publishing group created the Marie Claire US brand in collaboration with Marie Claire Album, its French joint venture partners, president Debi Chirichella stated in the release. Chirichella wrote a letter to the staff of the publishing group, seen by WWD, stating that its “focus has always been on strategic long-term growth for the brand” through its 27-year partnership with Marie Claire Album. However, she adds: “as the industry continues to evolve, the partners believe that the brand would be better served by a single owner, rather than the current 50/50 joint venture structure.” Future’s expansion to focus on US and Canadian market The acquisition is in line with Future Media’s global expansion plans, for which it is looking to target the American and Canadian lifestyle market in particular. Its strategy consists of diversifying and expanding the number of markets it’s present in, as well as its audiences on a global scale. Marie Claire US is visited by 17.5 million people per month and Future Media “is delighted that we are adding it to our already strong Women’s Lifestyle Vertical,” said Zillah Byng-Thorne, CEO of Future Media. Future Media currently publishes Women’s Lifestyle brands Marie Claire UK, Women&Home, GoodToKnow and its most recent launch MyImperfectLife.com. Now that it has acquired Marie Claire US, it expects its global reach to increase to 30 million people per month. “We are thrilled with this new co-operation with Future,” said Jean de Boisdeffre, Director of International Development at Marie Claire International. “We strongly believe that this agreement will create a new, and even more successful era for the Marie Claire brand in the US and Canadian markets. We are sure this will be an exceptional fit between our Brand and the Future Group’s expertise, that will create opportunities to leverage and expand Marie Claire into new and exciting business territories.”
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Fashion School Directory renewed

EDUCATION Credit: Pexels As part of the FashionUnited’s Education Network, the new free-to-access Fashion School Directory offers prospective fashion students the best possible overview of schools, universities and other educational institutes around the world teaching about the various facets of the apparel industry. Over 200 schools from over 30 different countries are collated in the continuously updated catalogue, which can be browsed and filtered with help of innovative AI-powered search. The directory is yet another tool along with the already successful online FashionUnited education resource, which offers a database of specific fashion courses and relevant industry news. The Fashion Education Network launched over 10 years ago, aims to build a bridge between fashion education and the industry by promoting interaction and sharing knowledge. By bringing transparency to the global fashion industry and its educational programmes, connecting future professionals to companies becomes more efficient. The Fashion School Directory is intended to give prospective students a tool to help them make an informed choice about where to study. For more information about the International Fashion School Directory, please contact education@fashionunited.com
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Le nouveau Répertoire des Écoles de Mode

EDUCATION Credit: Pexels Dans le cadre du réseau éducatif de FashionUnited, le nouveau Répertoire des Écoles de Mode, dont l'accès est gratuit, offre aux futurs étudiants en mode le meilleur aperçu possible des écoles, universités et autres instituts de formation du monde entier qui enseignent les différentes facettes du secteur de l'habillement. Plus de 200 écoles réparties à travers plus de 30 pays différents sont rassemblées dans un catalogue mis à jour en permanence, qui peut être parcouru et filtré à l'aide d'une recherche innovante alimentée par l'intelligence artificielle. Le répertoire est un outil supplémentaire qui vient s'ajouter à la ressource en ligne FashionUnited Education, déjà très appréciée, et qui propose une base de données de cours de mode spécifiques et des informations pertinentes sur le secteur. Le Fashion Education Network, lancé il y a plus de dix ans, vise à jeter un pont entre l'enseignement de la mode et le secteur en favorisant l'interaction et le partage des connaissances. En apportant de la transparence à l’industrie mondiale de la mode et à ses programmes éducatifs, la mise en relation des futurs professionnels avec les entreprises devient ainsi plus efficace. Le Répertoire des Écoles de Mode a pour but de fournir aux futurs étudiants un outil qui les aidera à choisir en toute connaissance de cause le lieu de leurs études. Pour plus d'informations sur le Répertoire international des Écoles de Mode, veuillez contacter education@fashionunited.com.
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Authentic Brands Group and SPARC to acquire Eddie Bauer

Eddie Bauer, Authentic Brands Group Authentic Brands Group (ABG) and SPARC Group have signed a definitive agreement to purchase Eddie Bauer, the American outdoor brand, from PSEB Group, an operating company owned by Golden Gate Capital. The company said in a release that ABG will own Eddie Bauer’s intellectual property and the brand’s core operating business will become a part of the SPARC portfolio of brands. Following the close of the transaction, SPARC’s operating platform will include Eddie Bauer, Brooks Brothers, Lucky Brand, Nautica, Aéropostale and Forever 21, which collectively generate nearly 8.6 billion dollars in retail sales annually. ABG and SPARC to purchase Eddie Bauer “Eddie Bauer has a 100-year history of unparalleled authority in the outdoor space,” said Jamie Salter, founder, chairman and CEO of ABG, adding, “The global outdoor market opportunity has grown exponentially over the last year and we are ready to hit the ground running and guide this brand into new frontiers in partnership with SPARC, Damien and the rest of the Eddie Bauer team.” The company added that Eddie Bauer will remain headquartered in the Seattle area under the leadership of current president Damien Huang. The Eddie Bauer team, in partnership with SPARC, will manage the brand’s sourcing, product design and development, wholesale, planning and allocation, and e-commerce as well as its 300 stores, which are principally located in the U.S. and Canada. “The addition of Eddie Bauer introduces a new and highly-differentiated expertise to the SPARC organization,” said Marc Miller, CEO of SPARC. ABG plans international growth for the brand, with territory expansion opportunities in LATAM, Europe and APAC and near-term launches in China and Korea will drive the initial phase of that growth.
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