Video: Toga SS22 collection

In this video, fashion brand Toga has presented its SS22 collection at London Fashion Week (LFW). Watch the video below. Video: FF Channel via YouTube Photo credit: oh_la_lauu, Facebook
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Video: Emilia Wickstead at LFW

In this video, fashion designer Emilia Wickstead has presented her SS22 collection at London Fashion Week (LFW). Watch the video below. Video: FF Channel via YouTube Photo credit: Emilia Wickstead, Facebook
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Video: Supriya Lele SS22 collection

In this video, fashion designer Supriya Lele has presented her SS22 collection at London Fashion Week (LFW). Watch the video below. Video: IMAXtree.tv via YouTube Photo credit: Michael Hemmings, Facebook
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In The Style issues profit warning amid soaring sales

Image: In The Style In The Style has reported soaring sales but warned it expects its profits to take a hit from the supply chain issues plaguing the UK. The Manchester-based womenswear e-tailer said Friday that increased freight costs, disruption to the timing of shipments, and an increased returns rate will impact its profitability. It said the issues will likely last until the end of its financial year in March. Shares of the company were down more than 14 percent following the news. CEO and founder Adam Frisby said: “We continue to invest in our team and infrastructure to support our long-term growth, and despite the widely-publicised external headwinds expected to continue to impact across the retail industry over the coming months, we remain very well-positioned to continue to grow In The Style and achieve the brand's exciting potential.” The warning came as the company reported a 45 percent year-on-year increase in group revenue in the period from April to August, while e-commerce gross order value was up almost 50 percent. Sales surge at In The Style The retailer said its proprietary app also continued to perform well, with sales through the app increasing to represent 62 percent of total e-commerce sales compared to 53 percent a year earlier. Meanwhile, the group's wholesale sales jumped by over 200 percent in the period on the back of new partnerships, including one with Asda which saw the brand launch in 100 of the British supermarket's stores. In The Style has been growing rapidly in recent years and in March launched its IPO which raised 11 million pounds in gross proceeds. “We are pleased with the strong sales momentum achieved during the financial year to date,” Frisby said. “This momentum has been supported by increasing consumer awareness of In The Style and our clear brand mission to empower customers to be brave, embrace body confidence and, most of all, love themselves for who they are.”
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Video: Erdem at London Fashion Week

In this video, fashion brand Erdem has presented its SS22 collection at London Fashion Week (LFW). Watch the video below. Video: Erdem via YouTube Photo credit: Erdem, Facebook
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Global Textile and Garment Manufacturers Initiative Publishes White Paper on Commercial Compliance

The white paper contains the core principles that manufacturers as part of the Sustainable Terms of Trade Initiative (STTI) do not want to see breached by the companies that buy from them. And it suggests how manufacturers will collaborate to apply commercial compliance in the apparel sourcing business The initiative, led by the STAR Network, the International Apparel Federation (IAF) and the Better Buying Institute and supported by GIZ FABRIC consists of 13 industry associations from nine countries facing similar challenges regarding purchasing practices in the textile and garment industry. Through a process of consultation, these associations have now jointly agreed on the text of the white paper that is published today. This marks the first joint manufacturers’ position on the improvement of purchasing practices. The white paper establishes commercial compliance as a leading principle for the manufacturer’s perspective on the improvement of purchasing practices. STTI defines it as ‘purchasing practices that do not cause obvious and avoidable harm to manufacturers’. The white paper lists ‘key recommendations’, defining what purchasing practices manufacturers consider to be breaches of their definition of commercial compliance. The associations participating in the initiative recognise that the breaches of these key recommendations seriously impair their ability to run a commercially viable business, let alone to contribute to stronger and more sustainable supply chains. Going beyond the key recommendations, the work by the associations has also yielded a set of further recommended improvements to current common purchasing practices. Importantly, the white paper also contains a comprehensive research agenda aimed at finding out how purchasing practices can adhere to commercial compliance and be further improved while maintaining the flexibility and commercial independence that is to the advantage of both buyers and suppliers, as well as their customers and workers. A phase 2 to the initiative is foreseen to start within weeks. In phase 2, two major and interconnected approaches will emerge. The initiative will seek structural dialogue with buying brands and retailers and some of the MSIs in which they participate on the inclusion of the concept of commercial compliance in purchasing practices codes. Secondly, the initiative will aid the creation of a system of improved transparency regarding commercial compliance. The white paper and its executive summary can be found on IAF’s website.  
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10 trends seen on the fashion week catwalks so far

Image: Rue Agthonis LFW, courtesy The global fashion month is nearly halfway over, with several recurring themes and trends recurring across borders and fashion weeks. Here are the top 10 fashion trends as seen during New York and London Fashion Week: 1. Adaptive Fashion Hits the Runway Since 2019 Adaptive Fashion has seen a rise in brands designing for the differently abled, with companies including Nike and Tommy Hilfiger championing and expanding their designs for disabilities. Runway fashion is catching up and this season saw models in wheelchairs take to the catwalks to show that innovative fashion can be truly inclusive. Faduma’s Fellowship in partnership with Oxford Fashion Studio showed being wheelchair-bound should not limit the joy of self-expression through fashion. Image: Faduma's Fellowship x Oxford Fashion Studio 2. Colour There is nothing like the hue of optimism, translated into a joyous use of colour which so far has seen a rainbow palette wash over the collections. From the jewel tones of Roksanda Ilincic at LFW, Norma Kamali’s vintage quilt prints and vibrant florals in NYC to master of the LBD Tom Ford, who is often resigned to a muted palette, but who’s opening look of vivid orange, glittering pink and azure blue stole the show. Image: Tom Ford SS22 3. Elevated Athleisure The groutfit is out. No longer does activewear need to just be a sweatshirt and sweatpants. Designers are taking the athleisure trend and making it truly fashion. Essentials like the cargo pant or jeans worn with shrunken t-shirts or bra tops are the new uniforms of the street. Timeless wearability is a key factor making the fabric quality for sporty separates vital. 4. Artistic Prints The prints seen on the runway this season were beautiful enough to frame and hang in a museum, from digitally enhanced graphics to sumptuous heritage quilts. Tie-dye even saw revolution in new ombré versions, where colours seems to seep and blend into the fabric. There was hot pink gingham seen as Prabal Gurung and an artistry of print at TSC Design House at Oxford Fashion Studio shown in London. 5. Hybrid Everything Fashion weeks are hybrid. While September is traditionally the season for womenswear companies, menswear designers have taken to the catwalks too. Some brands are hosting digital shows, others in person, or revealing collections via film, like Victoria Beckham and Matty Bovan, the Woolmark Prize winner. In New York, Eckhaus Latta’s sensual knitwear made the point of being gender neutral. Designers are choosing which medium is right for them. 6. Spring Suits The two-piece suit is making a comeback. Especially vibrant, colourful tailoring that makes a fashion statement. Suiting can be dressed up or down, but not to be confused with the grey business suit of the office uniform, instead tailoring is deconstructed and executed in subtle shades for a more modern take. Image: Proenza Schouler SS22 7. The Colour Purple Already a key colour on the Pantone radar, shades of purple have been everywhere for the SS22 season. From mauve and lilac to lavender, grape and violet, spring is the season of all things purple. Wear it in full regalia or as punchy separates. 8. Gender-Free Looks Gender is largely a social construct and designers are taking note and showcasing more fluid looks on the runway. In truly inclusive design, brands are keen to remove gender boundaries, featuring all kinds of body shapes and abilities. With the 90s trend revival set to stay, the oversized grunge looks emphasises youth culture by layering pieces any person can wear. This appeals to a customer who sees beyond the limitations of gender. 9. Sheer Skin is in, with the little black dress shorter than ever, and a universal need to feel sexy again in clothing. Fabrics like tulle, chiffon, netting, mesh, lingerie and other see-thru options made a return to the catwalk. LVMH prize winner and London Fashion Week designer Nensi Dojaka was crowned the symbol of modern femininity by the Guardian with her fresh take on hosiery, bras and tiny dresses. Image: Simone Rocha SS22 Cut-outs Any shape is a go next season, as long as it can be cut, sewn and re-cut to dramatic effects. Designers are experimenting with asymmetric draping, knotting and twisting fabric in innovative new ways to show openings in a garment’s most unexpected places. Image: David Koma, LFW SS22 Trends collated in collaboration with The Riviere Agency
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Model Evangelista says fat-reduction left her deformed

Washington - Former supermodel Linda Evangelista says she has been permanently disfigured by a fat-reduction cosmetic procedure that backfired and caused her to look bloated and unrecognizable. Evangelista, 56, said she underwent "CoolSculpting" five years ago and that it had the rare side effect of causing her fat cells to increase rather than decrease. Evangelista, a 1990s modeling icon from Canada who starred on catwalks with colleagues like Cindy Crawford and Naomi Campbell, said in an Instagram post Wednesday that she was never warned of the procedure's risks and is now filing a lawsuit. She said her current appearance -- the result of a condition called paradoxical adipose hyperplasia -- explained her absence from the public spotlight in recent years. "To my followers who have wondered why I have not been working while my peers' careers have been thriving, the reason is that I was brutally disfigured by Zeltiq's CoolSculpting procedure which did the opposite of what it promised," Evangelista wrote. "It increased, not decreased, my fat cells and left me permanently deformed even after undergoing two painful, unsuccessful, corrective surgeries. I have been left, as the media has described, 'unrecognizable,'" she added. The cosmetic sculpting procedure is supposed to freeze and kill the cells in fat deposits so that the body can eliminate them. Evangelista said the botched job has turned her into a depressed recluse ridden with self-loathing, her livelihood destroyed. "I am moving forward to rid myself of my shame, and going public with my story," Evangelista wrote. "I'm so tired of living this way. I would like to walk out my door with my head held high, despite not looking like myself any longer."(AFP)
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Video: Puzzle at Madrid Fashion Week

In this video, fashion brand Puzzle has presented its SS22 collection at Madrid Fashion Week. Watch the video below. Video: FF Channel via YouTube Photo credit: Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid, Facebook
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Video: Montenegro SS22 collection

In this video, fashion brand Montenegro has presented its SS22 collection at Madrid Fashion Week. Watch the video below. Video: FF Channel via YouTube Photo credit: Acento Artesano, Facebook
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IAF, EURATEX and ABIT Collaborate on Content International Conferences

The International, European and Brazilian associations IAF, EURATEX and ABIT are collaborating on the content of their annual, international conferences in the fall of 2021. The International Apparel Federation (IAF) and ABIT, the national association for the Brazilian Apparel and Textile industry, have even given their conferences the same theme, namely ‘Transition of the Global Fashion System’. EURATEX’s conference’s theme is ‘A new paradigm for the European Textile and Clothing Industry’ and therefore also emphasizes transition. All three associations are fully aware of the urgency and importance of the transition that the apparel and textile industries are currently going through. Through their collaboration they are able to offer a global audience complimentary programs, each focusing on different elements of this transition. ABIT’s focus is on people, exploring data gathering; a transition to a design more guided by individualization and communication in a digital environment. IAF’s focus is on the intra supply chain dynamics, looking at how the relations between buyers and suppliers need to change. And EURATEX focuses strongly on the role of legislation shaping our industry’s actions. ABIT’s international conference takes place on October 27 and 28. Visitors from across the world can join online www.congressoabit.com.br/ to hear a mix of Brazilian and international speakers. Brazil containing complete supply chains from cotton to consumer often presents examples of transition that can inspire companies from other parts of the world. IAF and EURATEX are holding their conferences back-to-back in Antwerp, Belgium on November 8 and 9 respectively. For those visitors that might be held back by pandemic related restrictions to visit the venue in Antwerp, the conferences will be available online. A joint dedicated website, www.conventionantwerp.com contains all the information and the link to register. Antwerp is less than 50 kilometres away from Brussels, where the EU Commission is unveiling a very ambitious environmental and social agenda aimed at large-scale transition that will have large consequences for our industry. Three global conferences offer complementary insights into the huge transition the apparel and textile industries are going through. Their connection underlines that we have one global fashion system. To get the full pictures, ABIT, EURATEX and IAF invite you to join all three!
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American Eagle Outfitters launches premium denim brand AE77

Image: AE77 campaign, Business Wire American Eagle Outfitters, Inc. (AEO) has launched AE77, a new premium denim brand for men and women. The company said in a release that the brand will debut with its first store in New York City’s SoHo neighbourhood designed by Stefan Beckman Studio, with an e-commerce site to follow on October 15 and a second store by year end. “AE77 is an exciting new opportunity for AEO Inc., which leverages our leadership in jeans, capitalizes on our strong innovation in style, fit, and fabrications, and incorporates our best sustainability practices,” said Jay Schottenstein, AEO Inc. ‘s executive chairman of the board and chief executive officer. The company added that AE77 is an emerging premium brand in the AEO, Inc. portfolio offering a collection of artfully designed and sustainably crafted denim, apparel and accessories for men and women. “We created AE77 to make the best premium denim in the market. The optimistic tension between denim design and sustainable craftsmanship is woven throughout the brand. We are committed to putting our planet and quality first while curating a unique collection with a New York sensibility,” said Chad Kessler, President - AE Premium Brands. To introduce AE77, the brand worked with creative director Trey Laird.
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Vegan bag label Miomojo branches out into yoga wear

Miomojo Cruelty-free accessories brand Miomojo has branched out into yoga wear. The Kind yoga collection is made in Italy and consists of a leggings and top set made out of breathable, recycled fabrics, a sweatshirt and two yoga bags. The Kind yoga collection consists of a leggings and top combo, made of soft, eco-sustainable nylon that has been regenerated from textile waste, and a matching sweatshirt in organic cotton and recycled polyester. The use of recycled materials means that 90 percent less water was consumed making these clothes and 80 percent less CO2 when compared with virgin materials. 
 The Melissa tote bag and Irene mat holder are also made in Italy and made from recycled polyester from recycled PET bottles. “The products have been tested and certified by the Global Recycled Standard (GRS) in every step of production chain,” says Miomojo in a press release. Compared to virgin materials, 86 percent less water is used, 75 percent less CO2 and 70 percent less energy. Miomojo “We are constantly looking all over the world for innovative materials that do not harm animals nor the planet. Nowadays, we use recycled materials from fishing nets, plastic, glass and coffee; innovative alternatives to animal leather; recycled organic fibres from bamboo and mint.
We are also exploring the new great lab-grown materials, such as mushroom leather,” adds Miomojo. The Italian label has also started the process of becoming a B Corporation and is already a Benefit Company., which means going beyond the profit goal and balancing ethics and economic benefits. Both the yoga wear and the yoga bags are available through the Miomojo website. Prices are 112 euros (around 130 US dollars/96 British pounds) for the yoga set, 65 euros (about 76 US dollars/56 British pounds) for the sweatshirt, 86.50 euros (about 100 US dollars/74 British pounds) for the tote bag and 50.50 euros (around 60 US dollars / 43 British pounds) for the mat holder. Miomojo All products are shipped using DHL Go Green to reduce the environmental impact through the compensation of CO2 emissions. All packaging is made of recycled paper and a low impact, biodegradable material from corn starch. The company aims to make all products exclusively from recycled materials by next year. 
 Miomojo also donates 10 percent of its net profit to international animal welfare organisations like Animals Asia, Four Paws and Mercy for Animals. The Bergamo-based company has also joined 1% for the Planet, donating one percent of its annual profit to the international environmental organisation.
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Delvaux gets new old CEO

Image: delvaux.us Jean-Marc Loubier, the former CEO of Delvaux who helped the brand expand through the 2010s, is now returning to the Belgian fashion house for a second round as CEO. Delvaux is now owned by luxury conglomerate Compagnie Financière Richemont, the owners of other brands including Chloé and Cartier. The news was reported by WWD. Loubier returns to his new old role today reporting to Philippe Fortunato, CEO of Richemont’s fashion and accessories houses. As of this summer, Richemont now owns 100 percent of stake in Delvaux after buying it from First Heritage Brands. Reportedly, it was Loubier who helped grow Delvaux’s sales from 18 million to 120 million euros as the brand saw international expansion in China, South Korea, Japan, North America, London, and Milan. Under Loubier’s leadership, Delvaux’s store network increased from 10 to 50. Loubier, who was also Delvaux’s chairman, stepped down from the brand in 2019, at the same time divesting his minority stake. He succeeds Marco Probst, who also served two separate times as the brand’s CEO.
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PROJECT Announces 2022 Global Event Calendar for Contemporary Men’s and Women’s Fashion Markets in Las Vegas, New York, and Tokyo

Expanding on refreshed market-focused strategies unveiled in 2021, PROJECT returns in 2022 with a full calendar of global opportunities and a variety of platforms for the contemporary market, fueling continuous discovery, higher-value connections, education, and growth opportunities. New York, NY - September 15, 2021 – PROJECT, the leading industry connector for the men’s and women’s contemporary markets, organized by Informa Markets Fashion, announced today new leadership for its Men’s portfolio, as well as initial plans for its 2022 multichannel global marketplace calendar. PROJECT’s 2022 schedule will include a combination of locations and formats – both live and digital – supporting the refreshed, strategic approach unveiled in 2021 and designed to deliver greater variety and higher value business opportunities, insights, and resources for the contemporary fashion market. The 2022 schedule will provide retail buyers with more opportunities to capitalize on new and emerging trends and deliver on quickly evolving consumer interests. For contemporary men’s and women’s brands, the multichannel opportunities will provide expanded access to new audiences in a variety of markets, allowing for additional business connections and potential for expansion into new, key markets. While the global PROJECT brand will continue to support the entire contemporary market, specific events throughout 2022 are designed to service, with greater specificity, specialized market needs, and align more effectively with critical buying cycles for the men’s and women’s market. Continuing with its twice annual keystone US-based event, PROJECT Las Vegas will return to the Las Vegas Convention Center on February 14-16, 2022 and again on August 8-10, 2022. With the most comprehensive event offering for the men’s and women’s contemporary market available in the US, PROJECT Las Vegas’ February and August editions will feature new brands and top sellers in highlighted categories such as: streetwear, denim, contemporary collections, outerwear, loungewear, activewear, gift, footwear and accessories, in addition to beauty and grooming; with price points from mid-market to premium. Expanding on initiatives that help retailers discover brands that align to consumer values and interests, retailers can also expect to see onsite “curations” such as Made-in-the-USA as well as continued focus on supporting diversity through the Informa Markets for Change (IMFC) initiative – launched in 2020 - which fosters allyship, inclusion, and equality within the fashion community. Brands interested in being considered for upcoming program opportunities featuring minority-owned, women-owned, and LGBTQIA+- owned fashion brands are invited to apply. With enhanced focus on their role in driving business opportunity and community connection for the contemporary market, PROJECT Las Vegas will feature a robust seminar series as well as celebrity and fashion leadership appearances that will provide both brands and retailers access to relevant industry insights pertinent to both established and emerging businesses. PROJECT New York will return back to its home in the US’ fashion capital for its twice annual menswear focused event which will take place in January 2022 and July 2022 to coincide with the men’s wholesale market in New York City. PROJECT New York will provide a fresh perspective in 2022, featuring a highly curated and intimate assortment of domestic and international men’s contemporary brands, drawing an exclusive and influential audience of retail buyers eager to shop new collections for the upcoming and immediate seasons. Highlighted categories and product ranges across apparel, footwear, and accessories will include advanced contemporary, emerging designer, artisanal workwear & denim, new-age tailoring, elevated streetwear, and digitally native brands. Internationally, PROJECT Tokyo will return March 16-17 at the Tokyo International Forum as well as in Fall 2022, with fall dates to be announced later this year. PROJECT Tokyo will feature an international collection of men’s and women’s contemporary apparel, accessories, and footwear, from contemporary to designer price points. This renowned international event attracts top retailers from department and specialty stores to regional and online retailers from across Japan and overseas. Notable and frequent attendees from previous editions, include United Arrows, Beams, ISETAN, ESTNATION, Tomorrowland, SHIPS, BAYCREW’S, and Ginza Six. In addition to its live event offerings, PROJECT will also return with digital opportunities in 2022. First introduced in the Summer of 2021, the product-first platform will feature a large variety of contemporary men’s and women’s brands and products, allowing both brands and retailers even more connection and discovery opportunities. Acting as a complement to live events for ongoing engagement before, during and after live events have concluded, PROJECT’s digital discovery platform further enhances onsite experiences for the contemporary community through a powerful marriage of advanced technology that allow for unique product discovery journeys. In addition to announcing its 2022 schedule, Informa Markets Fashion has announced new leadership for their Men’s portfolio. Helping to further guide PROJECT’s evolution into 2022, Brian Trunzo has been appointed as Vice President of Informa Markets Fashion’s Men’s portfolio, where he will oversee the contemporary men’s side of the PROJECT brand. Trunzo has a long history in the menswear industry with experience in trend forecasting at WGSN, retail operations, design, and wholesale, and most recently as Head of Brand at Informa Markets Fashion. Trunzo’s varied experience in the market gives him a unique perspective, allowing him to understand the larger fashion matrix and anticipate the needs within the contemporary market. Trunzo will work hand-in-hand with Courtney Bradarich, Vice President of Contemporary Women’s under the PROJECT banner. “It is impossible to overstate the importance of menswear to me both personally and professionally – I’m thrilled to be in a position to help service our incredible roster of brands and retailers during this unprecedented time,” says Brian Trunzo, Vice President of Men’s at Informa Markets Fashion. “This business is all about connections, and we have a responsibility to facilitate that. Overseeing the men’s side of PROJECT in its new chapter, I’m invigorated to try new ideas and new formats that promote greater discovery and business opportunity for the industry and looking to our clients’ needs for inspiration as to how we host events –domestically, internationally and digitally – in the near and long term.” For more information, including upcoming announcements of future 2022 PROJECT event dates, business resources, and information relevant to the contemporary market, please visit Projectfashionevents.com. To find out more about additional 2022 Informa Markets Fashion events, please visit: Findfashionevents.com
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Wrangler implements recyclable fibres into autumn 2021 collection

Image: Wrangler In partnership with Infinited Fibre Company, American brand Wrangler has announced it will be incorporating the regenerated, recyclable fibre Infinna into its new autumn collection. Produced using textile waste, Infinna replaces the cotton used in denim, allowing clothing to be continuously recycled while using less water in the production process. The fibre innovation is used throughout Wrangler’s Infinited Blue AW21 collection, which includes a number of the brand’s signature pieces such as its men’s Western jacket and jeans. Part of denim conglomerate Kontoor Brands, the implementation follows a number of sustainable initiatives by Wrangler in keeping with its goal of developing a circular supply chain and reducing the environmental impact of its goods. Earlier in the year, the label launched a sustainable platform centred around these targets and future plans, released alongside a natural fibre jean collection. “We believe our work with Infinited Fibre Company and the introduction of Infinna once again raises the bar in terms of the environmental performance of our denim products, without compromising the comfort and quality consumers expect from Wrangler,” explained Dhruv Agarwal, Kontoor Brands senior director of innovation, sustainability and product development, in a release. “The introduction of Infinna is an additional fibre complement to cotton and an important step forward in the commercialisation and adoption of circularity in the apparel supply chain.” The Wrangler and Infinited Fibre Company relationship has existed since 2015, with the two coming together to further the production of the Infinna innovation over the course of six years. Wrangler’s Innovation Team invested in the technology, providing support in preliminary testing and technical requirements to advance the process.
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Want to show at LFW? These are the universities to attend

Image: Courtesy Student Beans Ever wonder which universities have the highest rankings when it comes to London Fashion Week designers? New data conducted by Student Beans, Student Beans, the leading student loyalty network, has unveiled the top eight fashion institutions to attend as an aspiring designer. Analysing over 175 brands who show collections at LFW, Central Saint Martins ranks as the number one school for those who wish to show on the official fashion week calendar. Saint Martins was attended by 33 percent of this year’s designers, according to the data. As part of University of the Arts London, the college is favoured by many aspiring designers due its high standard of BA and MA courses. Famous alumni include Stella McCartney, Alexander McQueen, John Galliano and Riccardo Tisci. London College of Fashion comes in at second place, another college within University of the Arts London. This LFW will see 26 LCF graduates display their collections, including JW Anderson, Laura Ironside, Marfa Stance and RIXO. Closely following is the Royal College of Art which specialises in solely postgraduate degrees within the creative fields. With 24 previous graduates showing at London Fashion Week this year its one fo the best in the UK for fashion designers. Famous almuni includes ex Burberry CCO Christopher Bailey. Also in the top five are the University of Westminster and the University for the Creative Arts. The University of the Creative Arts is the only college outside of London to make it into the top five, with three alumni showing this season at LFW. Kingston University, Ravensbourne University, and the National College of Art and Design Dublin round off the top eight schools which all had at least two alumni showing this season.
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LFW SS22: Erdem

Image: Erdem, Jason Lloyd Evans Created as a love letter to London’s idiosyncratic soul, British design house Erdem presented its SS22 collection with an array of sculpted pieces, intricately embellished dresses and genderbending tailoring. Inspired by 20th Century poet Edith Sitwell and English aristocrat Ottoline Morrell, the line aimed to reflect the personalities and style of these elegant muses through flamboyant yet glamorous designs. “It is their passionate individualism that we celebrate here today,” the brand said about the ladies, in a release. “Erdem is - and has always been - about empowering individual expression.” Image: Erdem, Jason Lloyd Evans The collection fused menswear and womenswear, moulding feminine yet occasionally boyish pieces that offered a diverse assortment of both formal and casual styles. Two piece suits ran alongside day-to-night dresses, drawing a broad offering to spectators of the show. Image: Erdem, Jason Lloyd Evans Experimental textiles were among the highlights of the collection. Waxed cottons and raw, crushed linens sat alongside lace motifs, while other pieces held enlarged floral patterns in bolder designs. Structural two pieces and dresses featured contrasting monochromatic patterns that stood out as more modern graphics next to the romantic bohemia dresses. Image: Erdem, Jason Lloyd Evans Some items displayed direct references to that of Sitwell and Morrell, such as oversized, crushed satin hats reminiscent of what Morrell was often seen bearing. Structured trench coats, on the other hand, aimed to capture Sitwell’s signature style, with pearl button details and oversized jewellery further capturing her character. Next to the more relaxed styles, a range of evening looks were also present. Floor-length gowns adorned with bright sequins and an embroidered a-line dress brought viewers event-worthy pieces. Hand-sewn beading was highly evident in the selection of linen dresses and pencil skirts, generating a more glamorous appearance for even the simpler styles. Image: Erdem, Jason Lloyd Evans Lace was the real frontrunner in this collection. Bohemian broderie anglaise dresses and suits highlighted the romanticism the line tried to display, complete with ribbons and botanical prints that further emphasised the 20th Century essence the brand was inspired by. Image: Erdem, Jason Lloyd Evans Image: Erdem, Jason Lloyd Evans Image: Erdem, Jason Lloyd Evans
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Does Hugo Boss have ambitions to be a luxury group?

Image: Hugo Boss Chris Hemsworth campaign There is no doubt that multinational corporations and conglomerates specializing in luxury and fashion are some of the industry’s most successful businesses. Think LVMH, Kering, Farfetch and New Guards Group, Richemont, OTB, Capri Holdings, Inditex, Swatch, etc, and think of these businesses each controlling a small number of houses and brands. German power house Hugo Boss, the Metzingen-based brand which generated 2.9 billion euros in sales in 2019, will know that the global luxury market, currently worth 300 billion dollars, is generated from just 10 groups. Even a small slice of the pie could net huge profits. This is why Hugo Boss in its next phase of growth could consider acquiring other brands. In an interview with Manager Magazin, Hugo Boss Chief Executive Daniel Grieder clearly outlined: “We are pursuing a platform approach that will allow us to grow further also through acquisitions” adding that he noticed particular potential in Europe’s premium sector. With ambitious sales targets to reach 4 billion euros by 2025 Hugo Boss may need to do more than sell its own product to double sales. “Our vision is to become the leading technologically advanced fashion platform across the world, and to do so we will revolutionize the way we interact with consumers,” Grieder stated. Brand Finance, the ranking experts, have calculated the brand value of the Hugo Boss brand 9 times between 2013 and 2021. The Hugo Boss brand valuation has featured in 17 brand rankings, including the strongest and most valuable Europe brands, the biggest Apparel brands and the best German brands. The question, of course, is which brands would be interesting acquisitions for Hugo Boss. A leader in the premium lifestyle sector, Hugo Boss has a solid business model that sees 17 percent of its total sourcing volumes come from its own facilities. Wholesale is at 30 percent of the company’s turnover, which could potentially be lowered and growth achieved via its own retail and e-commerce channels. Its centralised warehousing in Germany seamless distributes its products to 47 international markets. Who’s the Boss? Grieder said it was his ambition to make Hugo Boss one of the world’s top 100 global brands including by spending more than 100 million euros on marketing between now and 2025.
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Television's best bring glamour to Emmys red carpet

Los Angeles - Television’s A-list returned to the red carpet in high style for the Emmys on Sunday – a more traditional display of sartorial savoir faire after the pajamas and hoodies seen at last year’s mostly virtual event. Here are some takeaways as Hollywood’s top stars rocked up to the first in-person Emmys in two years: Get out those gowns The Emmys comes on the heels of a number of glamour-filled moments for the glitterati, including the MTV Video Music Awards, the Venice film festival and the Met Gala in New York – and the women of Hollywood did not disappoint. Anya Taylor-Joy, the star of acclaimed chess drama “The Queen’s Gambit,” stunned in a backless slinky butter-colored Dior gown paired with a dramatic bright yellow shawl that descended in a long train. “The Crown” star Emma Corrin also wore butter yellow – she attended the London satellite watch party in a strapless floor-length Miu Miu gown, long fingerless gloves and bonnet. Mj Rodriguez, nominated for her work on “Pose,” a show that explores New York’s 1980s underground ballroom culture, indeed struck a pose in a one-shoulder turquoise Versace gown with a thigh-baring slit – and killer pointed fingernails. “Ted Lasso” star Hannah Waddingham, the Emmy winner for best supporting actress in a comedy, wore a one-shoulder peach Christian Siriano gown to collect her statuette. Catherine Zeta-Jones looked elegant in a strapless wine-colored gown with a high slit and perfectly coordinated shoes – the epitome of Tinseltown chic, with Emmy nominee and husband Michael Douglas on her arm. Let’s hear it for the boys For a long time, men’s fashion was a bit of an afterthought at awards shows, but in recent years, they have brought the drama. “Pose” star Billy Porter, who shut down the Oscars red carpet in 2019 in a Christian Siriano tuxedo gown, slayed once again in a form-fitting Ashi black shirt with giant ruffled flounces on the sleeves, high-waisted trousers – and diamonds galore. “I really made the decision with ‘Pose’ and finally having a platform on film and television to use these red carpets for another form of expressing my creativity – the ladies do it all the time,” the 2019 Emmy winner said on the carpet. The night’s host Cedric the Entertainer, known for his dapper dressing, did not disappoint in a bright turquoise suit with black lapels and detailing, and sunglasses – necessary for the sunny afternoon in Los Angeles. “Ted Lasso” star Jason Sudeikis also went for a blue suit – a velvet Tom Ford tux with wide lapels and an oversized bow tie. And double nominee Kenan Thompson went for a pink tux – definitely a bold look. The award for best actor in a sharp accessory went to Thompson’s “Saturday Night Live” co-star Bowen Yang, who wore silver platform heels.(AFP) All images via E! ENTERTAINMENT
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'Change the game': supermodel Halima Aden reinvents modest fashion

Credit: Halima Adid. Ozan KOSE / AFP Istanbul - Halima Aden, the first supermodel to wear a hijab and pose in a burkini, has ripped up her lucrative contracts in an industry she feels lacks “basic human respect” and entered the world of modest fashion design instead. For the Somali-American who was born in a refugee camp in Kenya, it was a matter of preserving her self-worth and well-being in a fast and loose sector that increasingly clashed with her Muslim values. “Since I was a little girl, this quote – ‘don’t change yourself, change the game’ – has gotten me through so much in life,” she told AFP in an interview in Istanbul.”When I took the decision to quit, that is exactly what I did,” she said. “So I am very, very proud.” Aden’s departure last November delivered a shock to fashionistas and Muslim influencers who have admired her trailblazing career. Aden, who turns 24 on Sunday, broke ground in Minnesota, where she became the first contestant to wear a hijab and a burkini – a full-body swimsuit whose appearance has stirred controversy on some European beaches – in a US state beauty pageant in 2016. She posed in them again for Sports Illustrated’s annual swimsuit issue when her fame was spreading in 2019. But personally, Aden felt increasingly boxed in – sometimes literally. “I was always given a box, a private place to change in, but many times I was the only one given the privacy,” she said. “I got to see my fellow young women having to undress and change in public, in front of media personalities, cooks and staff, designers and assistants,” she recalled. “To me, it was very jarring,” she said. “I couldn’t be in an industry where there is no basic human respect.” ‘Poison!’ Aden sounded liberated when she announced her decision to abandon photo shoots and catwalks last year. She is becoming a designer instead. “Wow this is actually the most RELIEF I felt since I started in 2016. Keeping that in was literal POISON!” she said on Instagram. She felt her traditions, starkly different from those of most other supermodels, were caricatured and turned into a gimmick by some brands. One, American Eagle, replaced a headscarf with a pair of jeans on her head in a 2017 campaign. “But… this isn’t even my style??” she protested on Instagram at the time. “I got to a place where I couldn’t recognise my hijab the way I would traditionally wear it,” Aden told AFP. Aden looked far more at ease in Istanbul, surrounded by Middle Eastern fashionistas while attending an event organised by Modanisa, her new home. She will be designing collections exclusively for the Turkish online brand, which is one of the biggest names in the modest fashion industry, valued at $277 billion in 2019. It already makes up more than a tenth of the $2.2 trillion global fashion industry, with plenty of room to grow, according to DinarStandard, an advisory firm specialising in emerging Muslim markets. * ‘Taste of the world’ - World capitals as diverse as Moscow, Riyadh and London have staged modest fashion shows in the past few years. The trend is particularly strong in Iran, Saudi Arabia and Turkey, where Aden rejoices at the melee of cultures on the streets. “What I love the most about Turkey, especially Istanbul, is that it is very diverse, you see women who don’t wear the hijab right alongside women who wear the hijab,” she said. “You get a taste of the world in Istanbul.” The industry has taken off in the past decade, thanks in part to the modelling careers of women such as Aden. Soft-spoken but smiley, Aden sounds confident in modest fashion’s ability to withstand crises like the coronavirus pandemic and changing fads. “It is the oldest fashion staple, it’s been around for hundreds of years, it will continue to be around for hundreds of years,” she said. Islam and fashion “are 100 percent compatible because there’s nothing in our religion that says you can’t be fashionable,” she said. Luxury brands such as DKNY and Dolce & Gabbana have already picked up on the trend, creating collections catered to modest women. But Aden hit out at “a lot of tokenism, especially in the fashion industry, where they want our money but they don’t want to support us in the issues that we are faced with.” “I think fashion needs to do a greater job,” she said. “You are representing your clients who are Muslims, it is important to speak up when they are faced with injustices.” (AFP)
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Mulberry unveils designer collaboration with Richard Malone

In Pictures Image: courtesy of Mulberry British fashion brand Mulberry has unveiled the latest chapter in its Mulberry Editions with Irish-born, London-based Richard Malone as part of the brand’s 50th anniversary. 
 For the limited edition Mulberry x Richard Malone capsule collection, Malone has reinterpreted two Mulberry bags that feature the iconic Postman’s lock - the Bayswater, one of Mulberry’s most recognisable designs, and the Darley.  Unveiled during Malone’s spring/summer 2022 show at the V&A Museum, during London Fashion Week, the collection blends Mulberry’s heritage with the designer’s own bold design language, taking the functional aesthetics of early and mid-century bags.  The starting point for the capsule was the adaptability and longevity of luggage and travel bags, explains Mulberry in the press release, as well as Malone drawing inspiration from Mulberry’s archives where he was struck by “the pragmatism, purpose and quiet confidence of the designs,” and the way they could effortlessly adapt to fit the demands of a busy lifestyle and slot seamlessly into a wardrobe for decades. Image: courtesy of Mulberry For the collection, Malone has deconstructed the Bayswater, transporting interior design details, such as pockets, piping and serial numbered fobs to the exterior of the bags. By reworking this classic, it gave way to two new silhouettes, the Triangle Bayswater and a cylindrical version, the Barrel Bag.  Malone also puts his own stamp on Mulberry’s signature hardware, the postman’s lock, which is found on both the Bayswater and the Darley, encasing it in leather for a subtle, modern update. Mulberry x Richard Malone launches during London Fashion Week To highlight both Mulberry and Malone’s commitment to British craftsmanship and sustainability, an eco-friendly version of the brand’s signature scotchgrain material, which has been a key part of Mulberry collections for decades, is used across all styles. It is now crafted from innovative Bio-Synthetic materials, repurposing inedible cereal waste into a hard-wearing, lightweight material that looks and feels the same as the original textured leather. Any leather used, for instance, on the straps and handles, is from Gold standard, environmentally accredited tanneries.  Mulberry described the collection as a “celebration of function as much as form,” that is “pared-back yet impactful,” while adding that the geometric shapes echo the architectural silhouettes that Malone is renowned for in his own collections.  The purity of the design has been translated to the collections “punchy” colour palette of blue, red, green and white, inspired by post-modern and 1970s design. Image: courtesy of Mulberry Richard Malone said in a statement: “Collaborating with Mulberry feels like a natural fit for me - I really respect that they have meaningful conscious values and ambitious sustainability plans in place. 
 “The whole process has been so rewarding; Mulberry have been true collaborators, giving me genuine creative free rein. At its heart, this collection is all about function: creating really great bags that I hope people will love and wear for years.” Thierry Andretta, chief executive at Mulberry, added: “We are delighted to unveil Richard Malone’s contribution to the Mulberry Editions series. His innovative take on our design DNA, and reinterpretation of two of our most loved bags – coupled with our shared passion for and commitment to our Made to Last values of quality and sustainability – make this a truly exciting moment for Mulberry as we celebrate our 50th anniversary.” Image: courtesy of Mulberry Mulberry x Richard Malone capsule collection consists of a Bayswater, Mini Bayswater, Small Darley and two new styles The Triangle Bayswater and Barrel Bag, as well as accessories including a Coin Pouch and Key Fob. The collection launches digitally on mulberry.com on September 19 and in stores globally on September 20.  
 The first Mulberry Edition designer collaboration launched in June with designer Priya Ahluwalia, who reimagined Mulberry’s Portobello Tote and an assortment of scarves in her signature vibrant aesthetic. Malone’s collection will be followed up with a capsule designed by Nicholas Daley in November. Image: courtesy of Mulberry Image: courtesy of Mulberry Image: courtesy of Mulberry
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