Friday, January 21, 2022

Ralph Lauren’s approach to brand equity, Gen Z, and the metaverse

ANALYSIS Over the past months, Ralph Lauren has taken the lead as a trailblazer into new digital markets. From dressing up Emojis to launching exclusive virtual experiences or debuting limited collections for Roblox and Zepeto avatar customers, the quintessential preppy fashion group is taking the metaverse by storm. “We are getting into a new space where younger generations are really comfortable,” explained the company’s CEO Patrice Louvet during a conversation at this year’s NRF Big Show in New York. “We are working on how to project the brand and engage customers meaningfully, remaining on brand and on strategy.” When asked how this innovation roadmap aligns with Ralph Lauren’s original vision for its namesake company, the company’s CEO assured that the designer is “fully involved and engaged”, having led the way when it came to embracing Zoom and other digital workways. “We talk about Roblox and metaverse and he’s full-on; bringing energy and momentum to the company,” added Louvet. The fashion group’s CEO is certain that there’s a growing interest in the metaverse from a consumer standpoint: “We have to be there to win the next generation.” Louvet went on to share the ties between a 50 years old brand and the younger generations. “There are many parallels between Ralph’s vision and the metaverse; Ralph has created different worlds (think of winters in Colorado, summers in Montauk…) which creates great consistency between our philosophy and what the metaverse brings.” Where is Ralph Lauren investing when it comes to digital and omni-channel? The luxury fashion group’s digital investments have remained focused on creating content for all platforms, enhancing digital capabilities to improve the user experience and continuing to leverage Artificial Intelligence (AI) and data to serve its consumers more efficiently. In the fiscal second quarter, the company, in association with Zepeto, launched its first digital apparel collection. It also introduced the exclusive Next Generation-focused capsules for Urban Outfitters and ASOS as well as a new Ralph’s Club fragrance. Ralph Lauren started its second digital-forward Emblematic retail concept in Shanghai. For Louvet it’s all about “Innovation as a mindset: We have to experiment, o innovate, to try new things.” The executive acknowledged that they “don’t have a recipe to do it well, but we need to be there. First and foremost, this is a fantastic opportunity to interact with younger consumer, to create experiences. You can get into Roblox and get your avatar to have a virtual coffee at a virtual RL coffee shop, create a virtual outfit on Zepeto or visit the Madison store virtually.” Ralph Lauren is also making significant progress in expanding digital and omni-channel capabilities. In their second-quarter fiscal 2022, the company’s digital business continued to be a key growth driver, with accelerated digital sales across all regions. Total global digital sales enjoyed a 45 percent jump, while owned digital e-commerce rose more than 35 percent on a yearly basis. Ralph Lauren’s plans to monetize the metaverse Analysts at Morgan Stanley looking into the economics of the metaverse for luxury brands such as Ralph Lauren estimate the market opportunity for luxury goods makers to sell virtually as they do physically could be as large as 57 billion dollars by 2030. That could lift revenue by more than 10 percent, and industry earnings before interest and tax by 25 percent. Using Roblox as an example, where, per Morgan Stanley’s analysis, one in five gamers change their avatars daily, the investment bank analysts highlight that “Image is everything in virtual experiences.” Last August, Ralph Lauren entered into a new partnership with ZEPETO to “further demonstrate our belief that innovating in virtual worlds is essential to engaging the next generation of consumers.” In addition to the impact this move is expected to have in the group’s innovation efforts, it also marked the first time that Ralph Lauren digital apparel would be available for purchase thus serving as a good way to create another revenue stream. In this regard, Ralph Lauren’s Chief Digital Officer, Alice Delahunt, pointed out at the time of the announcement that “Ralph Lauren has always embraced new environments, and we’re excited to push the boundaries in this emerging arena. Making our product available to purchase and wear digitally and allowing consumers to experience the brand in immersive new ways is the next frontier.” According to Ralph Lauren’s CEO, they have already sold more than 100,000 units sold on Zepeto during their first week live there. “People want their avatars dressed and looking stylish,” assured Louvet earlier this week from New York’s stage at the NRF annual conference. For Ralph Lauren, joining forces with Zepeto “builds on the company’s recent launches in the immersive and augmented reality, gaming and digital product spaces, including the highly successful Ralph Lauren X Bitmoji Collection launch, innovation with Snapchat Logo Scan Lenses and the recently-announced partnership with G2 Esports as the first luxury brand to outfit an esports gaming team on a long-term basis.” “Our engagement in the metaverse is a natural extension of our lifestyle brand which, at its core, has always been about stepping into the worlds of Ralph Lauren,” further said in November last year Delahunt. “Our partnership with Roblox builds on years of digital innovation and underlines our belief in the opportunity that virtual spaces and economies present—especially when it comes to the next generation of consumers.” Market’s excitement about Ralph Lauren’s digital strategy for the future luxury consumer The market is reacting eagerly towards Ralph Lauren (RL) digital efforts, with analysts at Cowen saying that the preppy fashion group has prepared itself for growth for the holiday season and beyond. Noteworthy, RL shares trended up in 2021, gaining about 17 percent by the end of the year. John Kernan from Cowen wrote in a note to investors that, Ralph Lauren remains focused on digital growth, which goes hand in hand with substantial investments in marketing strategies. “Management is leaning into this brand momentum to continue to fuel future growth,” explained Kernan of such marketing investments. “It’s possible that Ralph Lauren could increase its marketing investments to nearly 7 percent to 8 percent of sales,” Kernan estimated for ‘MarketWatch’. The retail market expert added that at Cowen they “believe Ralph Lauren has multiple initiatives in place that could elevate the brand and reaccelerate growth longer term, including improving quality of sales and distribution; evolving product, marketing investments and enhanced customer experience to reach new customers, including Gen Z and Millennials.” Similarly, the Equity Research team at Zacks points out that “RL’s focus on expanding digital and omni-channel capabilities, through investments in the mobile app, omni-channel and fulfillment, bodes well.” Image: Ralph Lauren X ZEPETO
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Menswear pre-fall 2022/23

Subversion and surrealism lay at the heart of men’s Pre-Fall. Youth subcultures, surrealist prints and an anarchic attitude put a fresh spin on core themes surrounding gender-fluidity and the revival of artisanal craftsmanship. Amid the raw and rugged, a sense of playful nostalgia came through as designers looked back to their own heydays and reimagined them for the contemporary man. Trendstop brings FashionUnited readers an insight into the international menswear collections for Pre-Fall 2022. Dior Homme Like his womenswear counterpart Maria Grazia Chiuri, Dior’s Kim Jones also looked to subversive youth counterculture. Inspired by Jack Kerouac’s 1957 novel, On the Road and the Beat generation informed the 50s cut tailoring accented with sequinned accessories and paillette-overlaid knits. Contemporary hybridisation came in the form of trench coat/backpack pieces and collaged shirts that nodded to the upcycled headstock trend whilst Kerouac’s cover graphics were revived as a painted print on a rugged motorcycle jacket. Thom Browne Thom Browne’s seasonal take on subversion came in the form of Surrealist-inspired lobster motifs. Adorning tailored half pleat, half straight skirts in a reconfiguration of the kilt, as well as full length dresses, Browne continued to explore and redefine traditional notions of masculinity. Wallpaper floral intarsia in gentle shades of grey and jade green decorated structured silhouettes, and combined with models wearing false eyelashes, put a softly feminine spin on menswear formals. Balmain For Balmain’s Pre-Fall outing, Kurt Cobain’s journals provided the backdrop for a collection that infused traditional house codes layers with contemporary elements. Classic houndstooth and Breton stripes met oversized outerwear silhouettes, synthetic materials and rebellious stomp boots, using 90’s grunge as the platform for promoting craftsmanship and the celebration of beauty in imperfection. Exclusive Offer: FashionUnited readers can get free access to Trendstop’s Spring Summer 2021 Key Themes Directions Report. Simply click the banner to receive your free report. Trendstop.com is one of the world's leading trend forecasting agencies for fashion and creative professionals, renowned for its insightful trend analysis and forecasts. Clients include H&M, Primark, Forever 21, Zalando, Geox, Evisu, Hugo Boss, L'Oreal and MTV.
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Adidas and Prada team up for open-metaverse NFT collaboration

Image: Adidas x Prada Right on the heels of the duo’s Re-Nylon collection drop, Adidas and Prada have unveiled a new collaboration, this time taking to the metaverse. In what is now the third edition of their partnership, the sportswear brand and luxury label have introduced the new Re-source project, consisting of a non-fungible token (NFT) collaboration that will feature both user-generated and creator-owned art. The project asks their audiences to contribute anonymous photographs using a filter designed by digital artist, Zach Lieberman. Through random selection, 3,000 sourced ‘artworks’ will be chosen to be minted as NFTs and ultimately turned into a single mass-patchwork NFT designed by Lieberman himself. A total of 1,000 spots will be reserved for owners of the Adidas Originals Into the Metaverse NFT, with a further 500 reserved for those who attempted to mint the Adidas NFTs but failed. The Adidas NFT project launched in December 2021, selling around 30,000 digital artworks to over 21,000 buyers. Those involved in the Prada x Adidas project will be able to access the minted version of their photograph as an NFT from January 26 to 27. A cultural shift towards creator rights Participation in the collaborative project is free and contributors will maintain full ownership rights over their submitted artworks, also gaining the ability to sell their NFT on the secondary market. Individuals will be rewarded for their participation in the open-metaverse project with a percentage of the final artworks sale, which the companies have said: “Represents a cultural shift towards creator rights which is core to the crypto arts movement.” Lieberman’s final NFT will be put up for auction through the digital marketplace, SuperRare, with the majority of the auction’s proceeds going towards nonprofit Slow Factory. The organisation works towards providing education to establish inclusive communities. The final artwork will also be displayed as a large-scale digital installation at selected Prada and Adidas flagships worldwide. The duo has already stated in a release that they plan to continue building on this momentum, alongside Punks Comic and Bored Ape Yacht Club, in further exploration of the two brand’s existing in the virtual world.
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Sports Illustrated announces new gender equality advertising mandate

Image: Sports Illustrated To mark its 58th publication anniversary, Sports Illustrated (SI) Swimsuit has announced a new advertising mandate that will see only brands helping to drive gender equality be featured in the magazine’s annual print issue and digital presence. To implement the mandate, the company has introduced the Pay with Change platform which will celebrate companies creating change for women. All brands that can prove their past, current or future work in this area “will be certified as a changemaker”, the publication said, and will therefore be able to purchase an advertising space within the SI Swimsuit 2022 print issue. Brands will also have the opportunity to be featured across the publication’s digital properties, including social media channels, with additional prospects for certified changemakers based on investment dollars. In a statement, the popular media outlet’s general manager, Hillary Drezner, said the Pay with Change initiative will be the company’s “new standard of business moving forward”. She continued: “It’s our proof of progress, proof of passion and proof of our belief that we must be the change we want to see. Starting now, we’ll turn our advertising and activation space into a place to create change for women.” A percentage of every advertisement dollar generated by the annual issue will go towards the creation of the Sports Illustrated Gender Equity Fund, supporting a nonprofit that centres around generating equitable futures for women. Additionally, the company will be launching a new app, The Swimfluence Network, based on the development of a digital community formed around the brand. Users will be able to speak directly with SI staff and models, as well as learn more about live events, castings and related content.
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Shoppers Stop Q3 sales and profit grow

Image: Shoppers Stop, Facebook Shoppers Stop Limited reported a sales rebound of 35 percent year-on-year to Rs 1070 crores in the third quarter, close to pre-covid levels. The company said in a statement that EBITDA improved by 57 percent to Rs 197 crores while the gross margin grew by 170 basis points to 36 percent driven by robust demand recovery and tight control on costs. Commenting on the company’s third quarter, Venu Nair, MD & CEO at Shoppers Stop, said: “We are witnessing positive signs from a strategy that we initiated in the last two years. As the fashion and beauty retail is seeing encouraging early trends from the Wardrobe Reboot, we are rightly poised to capture the pent-up demand. While Omnichannel is here to stay, our present online contribution gives us immense headroom to grow.” Shoppers Stop witnesses growth among fashion and beauty segments The company added that first citizen loyalty customers continued to demonstrate a strong growth trajectory, with offline accounting for 72 percent of sales and online 42 percent, up by 160 bps. First citizen black card customers segment saw new enrollments increase by 85 percent. Private brand sales improved 32 percent while the margins widened by 160 basis points. The segment contributed 14 percent of the overall sales wherein apparels contributed 18 percent and online sales 17 percent. Newly launched men’s Indian wear brand - Bandeya contributed 5 percent to private brands, while youth-centric D2C brand - Infuse grew at an annual run rate of Rs 5 crores. Beauty sales accounted for 17 percent of total sales which grew by 75 bps in the third quarter. The quarter also witnessed the launch of 28 new brands (70 brands year-to-date). Arcelia, the private brand in the beauty segment, launched 40 SKUs of perfumes, deodorants and sheet masks. Another 75 SKUs of make-up and nails will be launched in the fourth quarter of FY22. Makeup accounts for 51 percent of the beauty sales mix. The company further said that omnichannel continued to display exceptional performance as the segment showed more than 39 percent growth due to revamped UI/UX that led to better user traction. While 130 lakh people downloaded the mobile app, better customer experience reflected in the improved app rating of 4.4 in the third quarter of FY22 compared to 3.4 in same quarter last year. The company has invested Rs 40 Crores in digital as of date. Shoppers Stop opened five stores including three departmental stores and two dedicated to beauty. The company’s 10 stores are currently under fit-out, which are expected to open in the next quarter
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Thursday, January 20, 2022

Bianca Saunders makes PFW debut with experimental collection

Image: Bianca Saunders FW22 London-based designer and ANDAM 2021 award winner Bianca Saunders has made her Paris Fashion Week debut, exhibiting an AW22 collection that experiments with cuts, movement and three-dimensional (3D) elements. Warped check prints make up a number of statement pieces in the menswear collection, creating an almost optical illusion-like pattern over tops and pants. Wrapping techniques used throughout the line also act as sensory brain teasers, with Saunder applying experimental cutting techniques to create abstract coats and jackets that defy conventional silhouettes. A similar technique is applied to a padded coat that appears as both a pullover and gilet, once again playing with typical visual elements. Image: Bianca Saunders FW22 Pants also adopt this experimental take on production, shifting the perspective of oversized cuts through technical folds and engineered seams. Even tailored trousers are given a dramatic rightwards shift, taking front design elements into the back and side of the pants. Image: Bianca Saunders FW22 Oversized sweaters and leather jackets further display Saunders desire to play with cuts, darts and more. Purposeful wraps and slants are created in some pieces in an attempt to follow “a more natural anatomy”, alongside the designer’s signature rolled shoulder design details that have appeared in past collections. In a release, Saunders said on the designs: “I want the collection to be timeless - it could be now, it could be the past, it could be the future. It’s not just about one person - I want everyone to see a part of themselves in it.” Image: Bianca Saunders FW22
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Yoox debuts new Marketplace site in Europe

Image: Yoox Yoox, a division of Yoox Net-a-porter, has announced the launch of its Marketplace in Europe, offering customers access to a wider assortment of products and providing brand partners with more flexible operations. The Marketplace will be home to over 700 brands across ready-to-wear, accessories and footwear, and will be available to nearly 30 countries across Europe. Yoox has also said customers will be able to access more frequent store updates, as it plans to continue increasing the variation of its assortment over time. For this season, over 150,000 new items will be available on the e-commerce platform, with the company stating its long-term goal is to surpass one million products. It has also suggested it is looking into adding pre-owned and beauty categories as it develops. Its launch comes as Yoox Net-a-porter continues its transition to a hybrid operating model, with the new Marketplace addition also designed to strengthen its partnerships with brands through the offer of flexible logistical operations and a more expansive product assortment. In a release, the company stated that Marketplace is part of its mission to help customers “navigate new market trends”, as well as meeting “the enhanced expectations for digital and e-commerce in the luxury space”. A sustainable addition to the site comes in the form of its ‘Good on You’ brand rating system, which provides customers with information about responsible fashion brands and the items they select. The integration hopes to aid in the support of small businesses, to help them in reaching and connecting with Yoox customers. Yoox has also revealed it is planning to expand Marketplace to the US, Middle East, North America and Japan at a later date.
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Podcast: The Need for Change

Joshua Williams In this episode, “The Need for Change” part of “The Future of Fashion Education” series, we summarize the key issues at play between the fashion industry and fashion education. And we highlight opportunities for change that can help to support employees in a fast-changing industry.
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Forever 21 selects Winnie Park as CEO

Image: Forever 21, Winnie Park Fashion retailer Forever 21 has announced the appointment of Winnie Park as its chief executive officer (CEO), effective immediately. Park joins from Paper Source, at which she served as CEO for six years. During that time, Park oversaw the transition of the company into a lifestyle brand and powered the development of its digital platform. Prior, Park also held a nine-year tenure at LVMH’s Dfs, at which she launched the company’s first international e-commerce site. Her experience in omnichannel strategies and business growth is key to her joining Forever 21, said Marc Miller, the CEO of Sparc, a group that counts the fast-fashion retailer among its extensive portfolio. The firm also operates the likes of Eddie Bauer, Nautica and Aéropostale. Miller added: “As CEO, Winnie will add a fresh perspective and approaches in connecting with the Forever 21 customer which will help drive Forever 21 from its current two-billion-dollar sales level to new heights of success as a leading brand in Sparc’s fashion and lifestyle brand portfolio.” Park is also on the Board and Audit Committee of Dollar Tree, at which she drives omnichannel retail strategies, as well as acting as a board member for Women in Retail Leadership.
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Wednesday, January 19, 2022

Intermix partners with NuOrder by Lightspeed

Image: PR Consulting Lightspeed, a one-stop commerce platform for merchants around the world to simplify, scale and create better customer experiences, has partnered with women’s fashion retailer Intermix. Intermix wanted to partner with Lightspeed to drive digital transformation and deliver a highly localized boutique experience, both online and in-store, via the NuOrder by Lightspeed platform. The technology will enable Intermix to analyze their assortments across categories and regions, get products setup on their eCommerce site quicker, all while completing wholesale orders faster than ever. Intermix will also use NuOrder by Lightspeed’s tagging capabilities to expand on exclusives and drive personalization. Intermix plans to implement an accelerated roll-out with a full launch across all categories for the cruise 2023 buying season. Intermix will utilize the NuOrder by Lightspeed platform to make data-driven decisions to complete their orders. Using pre-populated data and imagery, Intermix can easily view their assortment across different attributes to create a fresh and unique experience for their customers regardless of where they’re shopping. “Intermix is known for curating the best fashion edit every season, by discovering the most sought-after styles from established and emerging designers, and working with brands to develop items exclusively for Intermix,” said Divya Mathur, chief merchandising officer of Intermix. “Our partnership with Lightspeed will allow us to hyper-localize assortments at every one of our 31 boutiques nationwide and expand our e-commerce offering, while still maintaining our unique product point of view. We are excited to combine NuOrder by Lightspeed’s data capabilities with our expertise in spotting trends and editing assortments to accelerate our growth. As we continue to scale, we are looking at investments that will enable us to offer a highly personalized boutique shopping experience across both channels.” “We are excited to partner with Intermix, a boutique retailer known for delivering a highly curated and personalized shopping experience for its customers, both in stores and online,” said Olivia Skuza, general manager of NuOrder by Lightspeed, and co-founder of NuOrder. “Lightspeed will provide Intermix with the digital tools needed to make data-driven decisions and create an even more exceptional, hyper localized customer experience. Last May, Gap Inc. finalized its deal to sell Intermix to Altamont Capital Partners, so it could focus on its core portfolio of brands including Gap, Banana Republic, Old Navy, and Athleta. Since then, Intermix has been working towards growth again, and this partnership with Lightpseed is one step in that direction.
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JD.com partners with Shopify to give merchants access to Chinese shoppers

Image: Pexels Chinese retail giant JD.com is partnering with e-commerce service platform Shopify to allow merchants access to JD.com’s users. American Shopify stores will be able to start selling their products in China within four weeks compared the normal registration period of one year to launch direct sales. Under the partnership stores will be able to list their products on the JD Worldwide e-commerce platform, which has 550 million active customers. AP News reported the service will take advantage of JD’s network of 1,300 warehouse and 200,000 delivery personnel in China, the companies stated. They also said it will provide translation and other support networks. JD.com reported sales rose 33 percent over a year earlier to 218.7 billion yuan (34.4 billion dollars) in its latest quarter. The future of e-commerce is the marketplace model The unstoppable rise of the online marketplace model, operated by the likes of Amazon, JD.com and eBay, is driving the largest fundamental shift in consumer spending since the emergence of eCommerce in the 1990s, a report by OC&C Strategy Consultants has found. OC&C’s report, Trading Places, predicts that by 2025, spending through the leading online marketplaces will overtake the vast majority of eCommerce outlets in established retail and travel categories. When considering aggregate spend, marketplaces in those categories are set to catch up with direct eCommerce ahead of 2025. In 2020 alone, marketplaces accounted for over 1tn dollars of total western consumer spend in these categories, and 40 percent of total consumer spend online.
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Tracing a trend: Gorpcore

White Mountaineering, Balmain, Coach/Catwalk Pictures In June 2016, Miucca Prada, always ahead of the curve, showed a Spring/Summer 2017 menswear collection full of references to an outdoor lifestyle, including hiking attire, backpacks and water bottles hanging from utilitarian straps. In June 2016, Miucca Prada, always ahead of the curve, showed a Spring/Summer 2017 menswear collection full of references to an outdoor lifestyle, including hiking attire, backpacks and water bottles hanging from utilitarian straps. Prada Menswear SS17/Catwalk Pictures A few months later, Jason Chen of ‘The Cut’ coined the phrase ‘gorpcore,’ to describe a fashion style that fuses streetwear and sportswear with camping and hiking outfit components. The term ‘gorp’ is an acronym for ‘good ol’ raisins and peanuts,’ a phrase that refers to the trail mix snack enjoyed by hikers and nature enthusiasts. It’s a mash-up of functional outerwear, utilitarian garments and tech-wear. In the early days Gorpcore alluded to mostly functional staples. The North Face/Arc'teryx/Patagonia Key items included puffer coats, jackets and vests of which The North Face’s ‘Nuptse’ jacket was the undisputed king; waterproof shells became a gorpcore staple and Arc’teryx’s Gore-tex shell jackets became very popular despite the hefty price tag of around 600 dollars; retro-looking fleece tops such as Patagonia’s classic retro-X fleece jacket and cargo pants like Arc’teryx’s new System_A Paltz pants all became best sellers. Mammut/Arc’teryx In early 2019 singer-songwriter Frank Ocean made headlines when he paired a clementine colored jacket by mountaineering brand Mammut, with an Arc’teryx olive green patterned beanie, to sit front row at the Louis Vuitton menswear show. And just like that, gorpcore moved from the mountains to the heights of fashion. The merging of classic outdoor brands with high-end labels has resulted in some notable collaborations. The North Face/Gucci In late 2020 Gucci announced that they had teamed up with The North Face to deliver a collection of ready-to-wear, footwear and luggage inspired by original North Face styles from the 70s. Several pieces feature a combined logo that blends North Face’s three curved lines and Gucci’s green and red web stripe. A year later marked the delivery of a second season. As a nod to both brands’ environmental efforts, the line is using Econyl, a trademarked nylon fabric made from regenerated materials like fishing nets. In addition, all of the down insulation that is used in the second go-round meets certification for the Responsible Down Standard by Control Union. Jil Sander + Arc'teryx Late in 2021, Jil Sander, known for its minimalist approach to high fashion, teamed up with Vancouver’s Arc’teryx. Arc’teryx is a brand equally loved by outdoorsy types and celebrities like Drake and Travis Scott. The late Virgil Abloh was also known to be a fan. MSGM FW21/Catwalk Pictures So Gorpcore, having been around now for at least 7 years isn’t a new trend but recent circumstances have determined that it could well be an enduring one. The Pandemic has meant the need to spend more and more time outside, even in the depths of winter. From walking, jogging or cycling, to get some exercise and a breath of fresh air, to lining up on the street waiting for a COVID test, to dining at an outdoor restaurant as a way of safely meeting with friends. According to Nylon Magazine, “with this rise, gorpcore’s aesthetic has evolved, and the outdoor industry, as well as new brands, are responding with a more inclusive and fashion-forward approach.” Balmain Pre-Fall 22/Catwalk Pictures This has certainly played out in looking at the Pre-fall collections with gorpcore styles re-created in bright colors. Look out for more versions during the men's FW22 fashion weeks. Dsquared2 Pre-Fall 22/Catwalk Pictures
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Handheld aims to improve shipping efficiency

In this world of e-commerce, there is nothing more imperative to retailers than shipment. Handheld is helping make the shipping process more seamless using their new SP500X ScanPrinter. The device is currently the only device of its kind that allows workers to scan a barcode with one swipe and with the next swipe prints information (like which shelf or truck it should go to) on the package. Typically, shipping labels and printing were separated between several computer devices, this one is an all-in-one that can be mounted on the back of a hand. Handheld created the SP500X ScanPrinter for a specific company that they currently can’t disclose the name of, but before the invention of their device, the typical chain involved a printer, a ring scanner, and another mobile device just to label one box. Their device replaces all of that and gives users hands-free capability since it’s mounted on the back of the hand. A major shipping issue is the room for human error, where all it takes is one person taking their eyes off a box one time for a shipment to go wrong or mislabeled. With the SP500X being an all-in-one product, it has also saved its first vendor 130,000 tons of paper in printing labels, so there is a sustainable aspect to it as well. IT costs also went down because rather than needing support teams for several devices, there is just support for one device. Their first vendor has reported a 25 percent increase in speed of efficiency and a decrease of 20 percent error-related issues to 0 percent. There’s also been a reduction in labor costs which has helped the company increase profitability. They have now saved 30 million dollars in labor costs. It is also more time-effective because if a certain area in a distribution center needs more workers, they can send one person over with a device rather than needing to move an entire equipment line. “We finally began selling the SP500x around Christmas to new clients,” a representative for the brand said. “It was originally designed for a specific customer, so we were under exclusive contract, but we currently have two very large accounts interested right now. Companies are of course interested in saving on training costs, as the SP500X helps with as well. Rather than needing to teach employees how to use three separate devices, it’s just the one. The workers who use this love it, and if they ever move to another area of the shipping department where there aren’t enough of these, they complain. There’s really no beating this efficiency.” Shipping just got a whole lot easier. Packaging is being revolutionized.
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Tuesday, January 18, 2022

Valentino reorganises business divisions and appoints new executives

IMAGE_CREDIT Valentino, the Italian luxury fashion house, said on Monday it reshuffled its operational structure. Valentino, which is owned by Qatari group Mayhoola for Investments, said it created two separate units to separately manage its business operations and control divisions. Two new roles were created in the re-organisation, appointing Alberto Fasanotti as chief financial officer and Giuseppe De Mori as chief operations and logistics officer. Both will report directly to Jacopo Venturini, Valentino chief executive officer. “We are set on building together the next chapter of the brand, streamlining the business as well as repositioning Valentino as the most established Italian Maison de Couture,” Venturini said in a statement. He further said the company was “charting a new course for the future.”
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10 Consumer trends to keep an eye on in 2022

Image: Ryoji Iwata Market research company Euromonitor International has released its consumer trends report for 2022, highlighting the top 10 trends that are motivating consumer behaviour and challenging traditional business strategies. In the report, Alison Angus, head of lifestyles at the company, said: “Businesses need to transform alongside rapidly evolving consumer preferences. Reverting to a pre-pandemic playbook will not likely generate the same results moving forward.” The report further suggested that businesses need to begin adopting hybrid models that drive omnichannel experiences in both the real and virtual worlds. This includes making technology accessible to use whilst also exploring more advanced digital spaces, in consideration of the brand’s target audience. Backup planners Triggered by supply chain disruptions, this first trend sees consumers centre around their own creative solutions due to shortages. When faced with challenges regarding their go-to products, consumers will look for new ways to purchase these items or search for the next best alternative. This often sees consumers move to subscription-based services or other shopping methods that are deemed more convenient, an action that can impact customer loyalty. Read more: * Supply chain attracted a fifth of retailers’ tech investments in 2021 * Fashion sourcing expert: “All supply chain challenges are colliding with a model that leaves little room for deviation” Image: Primark Climate changers Sustainability is undoubtedly one of the most important factors that has emerged over the course of the pandemic. According to Euromonitor, 35 percent of global consumers actively reduced their carbon emissions in 2021, demonstrating the growth of green activism and the change of lifestyles in line with the escalation of the climate crisis. This drive for a net-zero economy challenges companies to offer products that are carbon footprint certified, as well as pushing for more transparency in their production to aid customers in making informed purchase decisions. Read more: * A new tool helps brands understand the environmental risk and impact of their sourcing * UK ethical consumerism amounts to 122 billion pounds according to report * 38 sustainability efforts of the fashion industry in December 2021 Digital seniors This trend focuses on the shift baby boomers have had, from being resistant to technology to having more reliance on it. As older consumers become increasingly more tech-savvy, brands must be considerate of their expanded online audience through accessible solutions that tailor to the online-boomer experience. Digital seniors use technology not only for purchases but also for socialising, finances and learning. Businesses have the opportunity to reach this expansive demographic through simplified digitalisation and educational support. Financial aficionados In Euromonitor’s report, it found that more than half of global consumers believe they will be better off financially in the next five years. This data is part of the driver behind this next trend, which centres around consumer confidence in investing and the increased interest in personal savings. Consumers are feeling empowered to strengthen their financial security, which sees them turning to simplified tools and solutions to further enable this new found control over their finances. The great life refresh Like many of the other trends on this list, this one has also risen out of the pandemic. Consumers have welcomed drastic personal changes and “a collective reboot of values” over the past two years, that challenge businesses to also grow alongside them. Services and experiences that respond to this movement need to be coupled with encouragement and support for new consumer lifestyles, helping them in their adaption to this new way of living. Image: Digital Village The metaverse movement Arguably one of the most talked-about movements of the past year was that of the metaverse. Moving beyond virtual hangouts, the metaverse has now evolved into a location for more immersive 3D realities, with brands that have already adopted this trend now able to drive virtual product sales and e-commerce through this continuously developing space. Euromonitor’s report stated that from 2017 to 2021, global sales of augmented reality headsets grew by 56 percent, reaching 2.6 billion dollars last year. The metaverse conversation came to a significant peak in October 2021, when Facebook announced a change of name and direction for the company rebranding as Meta and shifting paths to become a metaverse-first corporation. Read more: * FashionUnited’s need-to-know topics today: Fashion in the metaverse * Brands are getting ready to sell directly to avatars * Round-up: 2021 in gaming collaborations Pursuit of preloved Secondhand shopping and peer-to-peer marketplaces have flourished during the past year, as consumers move to a more experienced-based mindset, instead of an ‘ownership’ one. Euromonitor’s report suggested businesses need “to do more with less”, through circular initiatives, like resale or rental, that will both drive value through improved brand reputation and positively impact the environment. Re-commerce is set to continue growing and brands need to contemplate how this increasingly popular trend will fit into their offering. Read more: * The RealReal 2022 report reveals emerging trends in the resale market * Circular business models offer a 700 billion US dollar opportunity * FashionUnited’s need-to-know topics today: Fashion repair and resale Rural urbanites This emerging trend focuses on consumer relocation to safer and greener neighbourhoods, with an emphasis on suburban and rural communities that can offer more space and greener scenery. This trend has seen consumers begin the gradual move out of metropolitan areas into neighbourhoods that require a bit more work for businesses to reach. E-commerce distribution and sustainable production lines are stressed in this trend, in order to cater to the group looking towards this major lifestyle change. Self-love seekers More and more consumers are experiencing a self-love revolution, putting inclusion and acceptance at the forefront of their lifestyle choices and spending habits. This consumer group prioritise their personal happiness and comfortability in their own skin, as they look to indulge in goods that help them feel like their best self. The trend challenges businesses to maintain sincere and deep connections with their customers, that both cater to their lifestyle needs and enhance the happiness they are pursuing. Read more: * SPFW N52: Fashion as a tool for social inclusion and diversity * Black in Fashion Council release index reporting lack of racial equality in industry The socialisation paradox The pandemic and its resulting lockdowns have created an uneasiness in consumer comfort levels when heading into the outdoors, with Euromonitor reporting that, in 2021, 76 percent of global consumers took safety precautions when leaving home. This trend stresses the point that the return to pre-pandemic life is likely not on the cards, and brands need to develop solutions that allow customers to return to some form of normality in consideration for their plausible concerns.
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Underwear brand Parade launches recycling programme

Image: Parade/TerraCycle Inclusive underwear brand Parade is expanding its sustainability efforts with a free recycling programme in the US with international recycling leader, TerraCycle. ‘Second Life by Parade’ is a first-of-its-kind national recycling programme through TerraCycle for the underwear category, looking to divert unwanted underwear from landfill and help consumers reduce their carbon footprint. The initiative will allow Parade shoppers to recycle any brand of underwear by requesting a complimentary ‘Second Life by Parade’ package consisting of a biodegradable bag and a prepaid shipping label on the brand’s website. To further reduce the carbon footprint of the shipments, Parade is also recommending that shoppers send back as many pairs of underwear that will fit in the package, and in return, they will receive 20 percent Parade credit. Kerry Steib, head of impact and communications at Parade, said in a statement: “Second Life by Parade helps redefine sustainability on both a brand and consumer level. We already create products out of sustainable materials, but we know that’s only part of the challenge. Second Life by Parade will help address the category’s end-of-life problem by repurposing fabrics without using virgin materials.” Parade teams up with TerraCycle to launch underwear recycling initiative in the US All the underwear received in the ‘Second Life by Parade’ initiative will be recycled by TerraCycle into new products like insulation, furniture, and bedding. TerraCycle chief executive and founder Tom Szaky added: “This launch provides consumers with the opportunity to responsibly recycle their used intimate apparel and ensure that it is diverted from the landfill. “Together with Parade we are providing an end-to-end recycling program that will make it easier for consumers to mitigate their carbon footprint and have a positive impact on the environment for future generations.” Parade, which launched in 2019, is on track to become carbon positive by 2025 and is the first-ever intimates brand to commit to Science Based Targets Initiative. In addition, Parade utilises recycled fabrics in its products and ships via recycled and recyclable packaging and donates 1 percent of its profits to several charitable organisations.
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Valentino “streamlining” as it restructures business

Image: Valentino SS22 People Italian luxury fashion house Valentino is restructuring its finance and operations structure and added two new executive roles as it looks to streamline its business. In a statement, Valentino said that it has reorganised its finance and operations structure into two distinct units separating the business and control divisions. Both departments will report directly to Valentino chief executive Jacopo Venturini. To manage the new divisions Valentino has added two new executive roles. It has appointed Giuseppe De Mori as its new chief operations and logistics officer. He joined the company on January 17 from Bottega Veneta, where he has been general manager of industrial operations since 2008. In his new role, De Mori will oversee the industrial strategy of the Maison, coordinating the production of all product categories together with the logistics function at a global level. He will also provide service to both internal and external customers “to further underscore the company’s client and colleague-centric vision,” added Valentino. De Mori will also be in charge of making the industrial footprint efficient “through the evolution, improvement and digitisation of internal processes,” with a focus on sustainability, described by Valentino as a “strategic priority” to support its growth. The divisions reporting directly to De Mori include logistics, ready-to-wear, footwear and leather goods operations. Valentino restructures finance and operations structure and appoints two new executives The Italian fashion house has also appointed Alberto Fasanotti as its global chief financial officer. Fasanotti will join the company in February from Chanel, where he served as UK finance director. In his new post, Fasanotti will be responsible for leading the finance strategy globally through the transformation of the organisation and the digitisation of internal processes to measure and optimise business performance. Valentino adds that he will highlight the “risks and opportunities to ultimately facilitate all decisions relative to strategic imperatives”. Fasanotti will also be in charge of banking and financial services, accounting tax and treasury, as well as controlling and purchasing. Jacopo Venturini, chief executive of Valentino, said: “We are set on building together the next chapter of the brand, streamlining the business as well as repositioning Valentino in its natural sphere: the most established Italian Maison de Couture. “With energy and enthusiasm, we are charting a new course for the future with a common goal: elevating the company’s pillars, implementing a colleague and client-centric culture that places the human being at the centre, and consolidating a culture of creativity, innovation and sustainability. The onboarding of Giuseppe de Mori and Alberto Fasanotti is a fundamental step in our pathway from a professional and value system perspective.”
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Hugo Boss revenues beat pre-pandemic level

Image: Hugo Boss, FashionUnited On a preliminary basis, currency-adjusted revenues in the fourth quarter at Hugo Boss Ag increased 51 percent compared to the prior-year level, and exceeded Q4 2019 levels by 12 percent. In the reporting currency, sales grew by 55 percent to 906 million euros. The company said in a release that the growth was supported by 98 percent of the Company’s store network being back in operation during the fourth quarter. In addition, Hugo Boss benefitted from ongoing robust consumer sentiment in key markets as well as the successful execution of key strategic initiatives as part of its ‘Claim 5’ strategy. “2021 was a highly successful year for Hugo Boss,” said Daniel Grieder, Chief Executive Officer of the company, adding, “We strongly accelerated our sales and earnings development throughout the year and also made great strides in executing our new ‘Claim 5’ growth strategy. The upcoming weeks will see further important milestones, with the introduction of our new branding and the launch of the biggest Boss and Hugo marketing campaigns in our company’s history.” Hugo and Boss witness sales growth in Q4 From a brand perspective, the company added, both Boss and Hugo posted significant sales improvements in the fourth quarter, fueled by strong increases across all wearing occasions. Compared to 2019 levels, currency-adjusted sales for Boss grew by 10 percent, while Hugo posted growth of 23 percent. The company further said that all regions contributed to the acceleration in sales growth with Europe and the Americas once more showing particular strength. On a two-year-stack basis, currency-adjusted revenues in Europe were up 11 percent with all key markets – including the UK, Germany and France – contributing to sales growth. In the Americas, currency-adjusted sales were up 22 percent, with the important U.S. market accelerating sales growth to 15 percent, both compared to pre-pandemic levels. Asia/Pacific revenues grew high single-digit compared to the prior year, translating into 6 percent growth compared to 2019. While the reopening of stores in South East Asia & Pacific fueled regional growth, sales in mainland China also grew 18 percent as compared to 2019. Hugo Boss posts strong growth in online sales The group’s total digital sales – including its own website Hugoboss.com, digital pure players, leading marketplaces as well as bricks and clicks – grew 50 percent as compared to the prior-year quarter, translating to strong growth of 85 percent on a two-year-stack basis. Total digital sales thus added up to 20 percent of group sales in the fourth quarter. The company is on its way to grow the digital penetration to a level of between 25 percent and 30 percent of group sales by 2025. The company’s own online sales amounted to 110 million euros in the final quarter of 2021, reflecting currency adjusted growth of 33 percent against the prior year and 78 percent as compared to 2019 levels. The group’s retail business, including its own online, also recorded currency adjusted sales growth of 51 percent on the prior-year level and 15 percent on a two-year-stack basis. At the same time, wholesales sales increased by 60 percent versus last year, while they outperformed 2019 levels by 7 percent. Hugo Boss records FY21 sales growth of 43 percent On a preliminary, non-audited basis, Hugo Boss recorded sales of 2,786 million euros in full year 2021, representing an increase of 43 percent compared to the prior year, both on a reported and currency-adjusted basis. Currency-adjusted sales thus remained only 1 percent below pre-pandemic levels, with an average of around 90 percent of the company’s stores open during the year. Hugo Boss sales, from a bottom-line perspective, earnings recovered in the course of the year, reflecting the strong group sales development. The group anticipates that operating profit (EBIT) will amount to 228 million euros in fiscal year 2021, with the fourth quarter contributing an EBIT of 100 million euros. The group will publish its final results for 2021 and its financial outlook for the fiscal year 2022 on March 10, 2022.
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Monday, January 17, 2022

Fall/Winter 2022 key color predictions for women's wear

FW22 Sophicolor/Pexels Ahead of the F/W22 women's wear buying season, we present key color predictions using the extensive color swatch collections from Sophicolor.com. Recharge and reset In Fall/Winter 2022 American society continues to pursue "a new normal" with a slower pace of life and a renewed emphasis on health and wellbeing. It's time to recharge the batteries and reset one's value system, focusing on spirituality, community and the environment. Weather patterns are unpredictable and consumers will become more aware of seasonal changes, while still desiring trans-seasonal color palettes in some instances. This will have a direct impact on color choices. Harvest FW22 Sophicolor/Pexels Celebrating a successful harvest with a feast or festival dates back centuries and can be found in various forms the world over. It's a busy time of year for farming communities as they gather in the crops; imagine golden fields of wheat under pink and orange skies. It's a modern take on a classic fall palette. Color Palette: A variety of yellow, ochre, brown, rust and orange shades associate with mauve. Bouquet FW22 Sophicolor/Pexels Indian philosophers believe that flowers have a spiritual significance; that when they share their beauty with us, they can put us in touch with a sense of eternity. Flowers speak to us when we know how to listen to them. As the trend for trans-seasonal palettes increases so does our desire for these beautiful floral colors in all seasons. This palette works for dresses and blouses in solid colors or prints all season long. Color Palette: Shades of peach, pink, plum and violet are tempered by dark green, earthy brown and cream beige. Beach FW22 Sophicolor/Pexels Visiting the beach in the off-season can be just as alluring as in summer. The pale fire exuded by the sun, full of Vitamin D, can fight off winter blues. Walking on sand is beneficial to strengthening muscles. This palette works well for faux fur, feathers and knits. Color Palette: Icy shades of peach, pink and violet work back to sand colored neutrals and navy, plus blue and green the colors of sea glass. Wonderland FW22 Sophicolor/Pexels In many U.S. and European places it snows less often than 20 or 30 years ago, due to global warming. Now and then, swirling snowstorms do cover city streets and country fields alike. It's an opportunity to dress in layers and enjoy a winter wonderland that is often fleeting. It's a classic palette for heavier knits, plaids and teddy fur. Color Palette: Classic shades of forest green, ochre, bright red, dark red and blue are key colors. They are mixed with greyed neutrals, navy and white popped with neon blue.
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The Bay names new chief customer officer

Image: The Bay Digital fashion platform The Bay has announced the appointment of Alexander Meyer as chief customer officer. Meyer has been tasked with managing the ongoing transformation of the company’s integrated marketing, media and customer success strategies, with a particular focus on high growth, brand and personalisation. He will oversee brand strategy, customer insights, marketing and creative, loyalty and communications functions for both The Bay and Hudson’s Bay. Meyer’s appointment is part of the Canadian retail group’s digital-first approach, which looks to accelerate growth, build acquisition and enhance loyalty, as stated by the company’s CEO and president, Iain Nairn, in a release. The new addition will see Meyer apply more than a decade of experience in the area, displayed in his previous work in marketing, digital transformation and product and business development. He comes from his role at Australia’s fashion and sports retailer The Iconic, at which he served as chief marketing officer for five years.
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Burberry secures 300 million pound sustainability linked loan

Image: Burberry AW22 In coordination with Lloyds Bank, luxury house Burberry has refinanced its Revolving Credit Facility to a 300 million pound Sustainability Linked Loan. As part of the company’s goal of becoming climate positive by 2040, the facility is linked to the attainment of key environmental, social and governance (ESG) targets. This also includes the acceleration of emissions reductions across its extended supply chain by 46 percent by 2030 and becoming net-zero by 2040. The company’s chief operating and financial officer, Julie Brown, said in the announcement: “At Burberry, we believe our long-term success depends on creating a net-zero future. Linking sources of funding to sustainable initiatives will help drive this, not only in the luxury industry but also across the wider economy. “We’re grateful for the support of our relationship banks in establishing this funding, which will help us on our journey to decarbonise our own operations and extended supply chain.” According to the report, the loan looks to build on the brand’s efforts to implement ESG across all operations, including its financial sources. Lloyds Bank developed its sustainability and ESG finance team in 2021, with the intention to aid clients with their sustainability plans through funding and strategic planning. It hopes the partnership with Burberry will translate to other luxury fashion brands, and drive them to meet greener goals.
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Jeff Goldblum takes to catwalk for Prada in Milan

Prada FW22, Catwalkpictures Miuccia Prada looked to Hollywood for inspiration as the Italian luxury label unveiled its Autumn-Winter 2022-23 collection on Sunday using 10 actors including Hollywood A-lister Jeff Goldblum to model the classical chic menswear, all the while bending some rules. Among them were David Lynch favourite Kyle MacLachlan ("Twin Peaks"), Jeff Goldblum ("The Fly", "Jurassic Park"), Asa Butterfield ("Sex Education") and Thomas Brodie-Sangster ("Bright Star"). Some seemed out of their element, despite their wealth of experience as actors. Prada said it wanted to use "real men, recognised figures... who offer a new facet of reality" as actors. The collection mixes and matches sober coats and blazers in grey, black and blue with work outfits in fluorescent colours cut from leather or luxury cotton. "Through these clothes, we stress that everything that a human being does is important," said 72-year-old Miuccia Prada, who heads the group her grandfather founded in 1913. "Every aspect of reality can be elegant and dignified." Raf Simons, Prada's co-designer who joined the house in 2020 after creating for Jil Sander, Dior and Calvin Klein, noted: "The fundamentals of the men's wardrobe are associated with industrial forms," melding "sartorial style" and "streetwear". The men's fashion week, which runs through Tuesday, was blindsided by the emergence of the highly contagious Omicron variant of Covid, with many houses pulling out. Giorgio Armani cancelled his show in Milan as well as his haute couture show in Paris, leading an exodus that saw the number of in-person events shrink from 23 to 16. Eighteen brands opted for a purely virtual presence, while others presented their collections by appointment. "We have learned to live with the virus," Pascal Morand, head of France's Federation for Haute Couture and Fashion, told AFP. "Digital enriches the physical, but it can't replace the emotion and sensory side of the runway shows."(AFP)
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Nino Cerruti dies aged 91

Legendary Italian designer Nino Cerruti passed away on Saturday, 15th January 2022. According to the Italian newspaper Corriere della Sera, he died in the hospital of Vercelli in the Piedmont region, where he had undergone hip surgery. “The employees of Maison Cerruti in Paris and their colleagues in HongKong SAR, China PRC, Taiwan RoC, and its licensed partners join his family, colleagues from Lanificio Cerruti, friends and all his admirers to express their deepest sadness for the death of Signor Nino,” read a post on the brand’s official Instagram account. “Today, we have lost the epitome of a true gentleman, a man of talent, a revolutionary designer, a man in advance of his times, a philosopher of the garment, an extraordinary mentor, to whom the whole fashion world owes so much ever since he created his Maison in Place de la Madeleine in 1967,” the post continued. At the age of only 20, after his father’s untimely death, Nino Cerruti took over the textile business founded by his grandfather in Biella in northern Italy in 1881, modernised it and added a garment production. In the days of custom tailoring, he made waves with his first ready-to-wear collection for men in 1957. Just ten years later, he founded his own maison - 55 years ago - in Paris and is honoured as the inventor of the deconstructed jacket and “casual chic”, which emphasises movement and the natural elegance of the wearer. Giorgio Armani worked for him for six years in the 1960s before he founded his own eponymous brand in 1975. In 1980, Cerruti was the first to integrate sportswear into the world of luxury. Then, 30 years ago, he added the brand’s the signature fragrance “1881”. In 2001, Cerruti sold his fashion house to Italian industrial group Finpart. Cerruti was a passionate sportsman, avantgardist and visionary who criticised the state of the fashion industry back in 2005. “Where else can you find so much superficiality, egocentricity, so much ado about nothing? Such ignorance?” said the then 74-year-old in an interview with the German Stern magazine. He also lamented about the fashion industry that “the percentage of talented people has drastically decreased”, but was also convinced that the person who is able to “breathe soul into a product is always indispensable” and proved this with his own example. The family will communicate the details of the ceremony in the coming days.
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