UK fashion sales dive in November

The UK saw a sharp fall in the sales volume of clothing in November compared to the month before, as lockdowns across the four nations hindered retailers' hopes for a pre-Christmas sales rebound. Clothing retailers were the worst-hit category, with a monthly fall of 19 percent, according to the latest figures from the Office for National Statistics (ONS). Those retailers commented that despite extensive online Black Friday promotions, the closure of non-essential had dragged down sales. The sector is still struggling to recover from the initial drop in sales experienced immediately after the first set of national lockdown measures, and remains 30.5 percent below February’s level. Overall, retail sales volumes decreased by 3.8 percent in November compared to October, though they still remained above pre-pandemic levels. The year-on-year growth rate in the volume of retail sales increased by 2.4 percent, with feedback from businesses suggesting that consumers had brought forward Christmas spending. Online retailing accounted for 31.4 percent of total retailing compared with 28.6 percent in October 2020, with an overall growth of 74.7 percent in the value of sales when compared with November 2019. Responding to the figures in a statement, Helen Dickinson, the CEO of the British Retail Consortium (BRC), said: “Retail sales growth slowed slightly, as many shops in England were forced to close during the November lockdown. Clothing, footwear and bookshops were all particularly badly affected by the forced closure over the month, including Black Friday, and saw sales drop significantly. “On the other hand, higher sales from retailers who remained open, bolstered by stronger online and click-and-collect operations, kept growth positive overall in the run-up to Christmas. “This headline growth figure masks significant challenges for many businesses on high streets across the country, as sales have plummeted and they face the threat of rising costs which they cannot afford. The Government should look to support these businesses through a targeted extension to coronavirus business rates relief or we will see further unnecessary store closures and job losses.” Photo credit: Rawpixel.com, Pexels
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Spring/Summer 2021 Womenswear footwear directions

Channelling the season’s core themes of craftsmanship, comfort and sustainability, SS21 footwear reflects the new normal consumer mindset. Artisanal constructions with an eco twist, forward yet functional components and practical yet desirable styles appropriate for changes in lifestyle ensure new season’s designs will appeal to the post-lockdown customer. Trendstop brings FashionUnited readers the essential women’s footwear trends direct from the international runways for Spring Summer 2021. The Eco Artisan Sandal Fusing craftsmanship with eco-considerations, sandals are braided and woven to create intricate constructions for summer. Delicate leather worked straps are joined by plaited raffia and wooden trims, set atop natural leather or espadrille-style soles. Translucent Layering Sports footwear gains new interest with translucent layers encasing uppers and soles that are both directional and practical. Sheer mesh fabrics, frosted plastics and jelly-like detachable outer shells, partially reveal intricate layered sneaker constructions below. The Padded Slide Renewed consumer focus on comfort and WFH culture, inspires summer sandals that are as comfortable to wear indoors as out. Pillowy, padded straps have an inflated look, surrounding the foot with softness in smooth satin finishes or supple leathers. Exclusive Offer: FashionUnited readers can get free access to Trendstop’s Fall Winter 2020-21 Key Formal & Casual Footwear Directions report, featuring all the key trends from the FW20-21 collections. Simply click the banner to receive your free report. Trendstop.com is one of the world's leading trend forecasting agencies for fashion and creative professionals, renowned for its insightful trend analysis and forecasts. Clients include H&M, Primark, Forever 21, Zalando, Geox, Evisu, Hugo Boss, L'Oreal and MTV.
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Rent the Runway launches Swap Stop traveling pop-up experience

Rent the Runway is changing the way it reaches consumers - by traveling to them during this holiday season. The clothing rental service announced via its Instagram account this week that it has launched the RTR Swap Stop, which is a traveling holiday pop-up. The company explained in its post, "We’re dashing through the city this holiday season just to see you! Meet the RTR Swap Stop, our mobile holiday pop-up experience for your roaming returns and festive surprises." The Swap Stop will travel throughout New York City, stopping in a different neighborhood each weekday. Its first stop was in Manhattan's Upper West Side. Renters are invited to visit the Swap Stop during a four-hour time window to drop off their past rentals and receive "free holiday treats." Rent the Runway's plans for the Swap Stop's future locations have not yet been announced. The company is posting all updates on its Twitter account.
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Video: The evolution of the supermodel

In this video, ADO Models takes a look at the evolution of supermodels from the ‘80s to now. Watch the video below. Video: ADO Models via YouTube Photo credit: Unsplash
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UK fashion sales dive in November

The UK saw a sharp fall in the sales volume of clothing in November compared to the month before, as lockdowns across the four nations hindered retailers' hopes for a pre-Christmas sales rebound. Clothing retailers were the worst-hit category, with a monthly fall of 19 percent, according to the latest figures from the Office for National Statistics (ONS). Those retailers commented that despite extensive online Black Friday promotions, the closure of non-essential had dragged down sales. The sector is still struggling to recover from the initial drop in sales experienced immediately after the first set of national lockdown measures, and remains 30.5 percent below February’s level. Overall, retail sales volumes decreased by 3.8 percent in November compared to October, though they still remained above pre-pandemic levels. The year-on-year growth rate in the volume of retail sales increased by 2.4 percent, with feedback from businesses suggesting that consumers had brought forward Christmas spending. Online retailing accounted for 31.4 percent of total retailing compared with 28.6 percent in October 2020, with an overall growth of 74.7 percent in the value of sales when compared with November 2019. Responding to the figures in a statement, Helen Dickinson, the CEO of the British Retail Consortium (BRC), said: “Retail sales growth slowed slightly, as many shops in England were forced to close during the November lockdown. Clothing, footwear and bookshops were all particularly badly affected by the forced closure over the month, including Black Friday, and saw sales drop significantly. “On the other hand, higher sales from retailers who remained open, bolstered by stronger online and click-and-collect operations, kept growth positive overall in the run-up to Christmas. “This headline growth figure masks significant challenges for many businesses on high streets across the country, as sales have plummeted and they face the threat of rising costs which they cannot afford. The Government should look to support these businesses through a targeted extension to coronavirus business rates relief or we will see further unnecessary store closures and job losses.” Photo credit: Rawpixel.com, Pexels
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After an unusual year, what designers, retailers and CEOs expect for 2021

It has been quite the year! 2020 is slowly coming to an end and even though the pandemic holds people in suspense worldwide, 2021 is inching ever closer. So what does the new year have in store and how do leading international voices at the heart of the fashion industry look back on 2020? We’ve asked philosophers, streetwear designers and fashion retailers. Mumi Haiati, founder of communications agency Reference Studios Reference Studios' clients include cutting-edge fashion magazine 032c and London luxury fashion retailer Browns. In 2020, the Berlin agency presented the first fashion show in the video game Animal Crossing at the Reference Festival. "2020 came with many challenges. It was important to learn how to deal with the situation and take notes, rather than giving in and letting it stop you. This way we managed to recognise much potential and act accordingly. Our approach has always been disruptive, so in that sense we came prepared. We do believe that 2021 will bring a new openness towards certain formats in fashion especially, and the way we look at things altogether. We are excited." Bernd Hausmann, founder and CEO of Glore Image: Bernd Hausmann / Glore In 2006, Hausmann founded Glore in Nuremberg, Germany, focusing on green fashion long before it reached the industry mainstream. As a retailer, he had to deal with temporary shop closures during lockdown this year. "Life is change. 2020 demonstrated that so well again. The afternoon nap had mostly to be cancelled and Corona turned everything upside down. The shutdown during lockdown was a welcome deceleration for me. At the same time, this period has raised many questions. Will the fashion industry really become more sustainable after the pandemic - as predicted by so many?” "I am very sceptical and believe that the opposite will be the case. However, more and more customers and creatives are realising that the industry has to change. The fashion industry no longer offers suitable answers to the questions of the future. I want to continue to work with Glore on a shift towards more social responsibility and sustainability." Christina Fontana, head of fashion and luxury for Europe, Alibaba Group Image: Christina Fontana / Alibaba Group While fashion sales in Europe and North America are not expected to recover until 2022 at the earliest, sales in China could return to pre-pandemic levels by early 2021. The extent to which luxury companies are now betting on the Chinese market is shown not least by the tie-up of European fashion companies Kering and Farfetch with Chinese online retailer Alibaba. “The pandemic has fundamentally changed our everyday life but also accelerated digital adoption and transformation. A lot of the work we at Alibaba have been doing is supporting our partner brands adapt to the new environment. Since the beginning of the year, we’ve launched quite a few luxury brands into our Tmall Luxury Pavilion: For this year’s 11.11 we had over 200 bands participating through Luxury Pavilion, more than 65 for the first time. Digitalization is the biggest opportunity of our time.” Edwin Keh, executive director of the Hong Kong Research Institute of Textiles and Apparel Image: Edwin Keh The Hong Kong-based research institute is working on questions about the future of the fashion industry. In November, a collaboration with Swedish fashion company H&M made headlines: The Green Machine promises to recycle blended cotton and polyester fibres on a large scale. ”In 2021, the biggest challenge is maybe to understand how the customer has changed and what the customer wants now. What is the new value proposition and the new reasons to buy? Apparel may take on some of the functionality and attributes of PPEs. We are all looking to be protected and to stay healthy in the new normal.” ”As we work more from home we will need more casual clothes for work. So our clothes will have to be more comfortable and more versatile. So, wardrobes needs will be different and supply chains will have to get smarter, faster, and more accurate to serve customers better. 2021 should be a year of winners and losers. Winners are those companies that communicate purpose, deliver new value, and adapt to this new normal.” Abderrahmane Trabsini, co-founder and creative director of Daily Paper Image: Abderrahmane Trabsini The Amsterdam-based streetwear label opened its first store in New York in 2020 and now has plans to open one in London. Trabsini misses travelling for work, but has enjoyed spending more time with his co-workers. He also feels fitter than ever because he has been exercising more. “My takeaway from 2020 - when the world stopped - is that we have been going too fast. As a brand, we had to rethink our strategy. In all this time, we survived because we have a loyal community. We don't want to be tone-deaf. These are crazy times, people are losing their jobs and brands are putting out more advertisements telling everyone to buy hoodies or so. That’s not cool." “For us, it was not about selling more products, it’s about educating our community. We created a monthly newsletter called 'Unite Hub' to show the story behind Daily Paper and how it’s going for us as a brand. We're also working on an app. We will never be going back to how it was before - people will look at the world differently and be more conscious. They want to invest in a brand and won't buy soulless brands anymore that just want to sell things. I don’t know what will happen next year, but I am staying patient and positive.” Benjamin Simmenauer, fashion philosopher at the Institut Français de la Mode Paris Image: Benjamin Simmenauer Simmenauer researches fashion theory at the IFM, one of France's most prestigious fashion schools, and teaches brand strategy and executive education programmes. "2020 is a year in which fashion has been challenged more than usual: prevented from producing by the pandemic, challenged in its values and messages by Black Lives Matter, and weakened as an industry by the economic consequences of Covid-19. The question is whether fashion has managed to use this turmoil to question itself in a credible and relevant way. It's a bit early to judge, but two interesting directions are emerging.” "For example, Thebe Magugu came up with a fake documentary about spies during Apartheid to show his collection, and Marine Serre with a film about anticipation 'Amor Fati'. Balenciaga developed a video game. What is interesting is not necessarily the productions themselves, but rather the idea that fashion can be presented in a way other than through a fashion show, and that perhaps narration can replace a show in some cases to create a desire for fashion.” "The representation of fashion through fashion is an important theme in 2020, and being left to their own devices, designers and studios have often opted for self-portraiture or introspection. At Margiela, the fascinating series "S.W.A.L.K." was created to document the creative process of the collections." Anita Tillmann, managing director of trade fair operator Premium Group Image: Anita Tillmann / Photographer Lottermann and Fuentes 2020 was a difficult year for all forms of business that revolve around the physical encounter of people. Berlin-based Premium Group had to cancel its trade fairs and announced its move to Frankfurt Fashion Week in July. "We noticed that there is still a lot of catching up to do, especially in the digital realm, technology is not being used efficiently. It is essential to deal with this now at the latest. Brands and retailers must increasingly use alternatives to outdated systems, train staff and stay up-to-date." "This does not mean that personal contact is not important - quite the opposite. I have been hearing from many business partners that they have a heartfelt, deep-seated desire to finally meet in person again, to talk, to laugh, to brainstorm, to present themselves, to negotiate." This story was written with the assistance of Ole Spötter and Julia Garel. Image: Saint Laurent SS21
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YNAP pilots digital IDs to boost circularity and traceability

Yoox Net-A-Porter Group (YNAP) has begun piloting Digital IDs to boost the traceability and circularity of clothing, with plans to roll the technology out across its private label collections from 2021 onwards. The two pilots are currently running across select items from the latest Mr P collection from Mr Porter and YNAP’s entire collection with The Prince’s Foundation. The unique Digital IDs are virtual certificates that can be used to record each item’s history. Customers can scan QR codes for each garment to access unique information, content and services, including authenticity, provenance, design information, care instructions and style inspiration. “Today, when we buy a garment, it is often challenging to reliably keep track of where it was made, what it is made of, and its authenticity. This can make it difficult to care properly for garments over the long-term, to resell them, and even to recycle them,” said Giorgia Roversi, director of sustainability and inclusion at YNAP, in a statement. “By simply scanning QR codes tailored into each item, customers and partners will be able to access information, engaging content and services related to that individual product.” Roversi said that, as the company’s Digital ID ecosystem develops, important moments such as if and when the garment has been repaired or resold can be tracked, “opening doors for the garment to start a new beginning with another owner or to be recycled correctly”. The new Digital ID initiative has been led by the group’s sustainability and R&D teams and is part of the company’s broader sustainability strategy, Infinity, launched in November 2020. Once the technology is established within its private labels, YNAP said it aims to share its learnings in Digital ID with its brand partners “to open opportunities for customers to access similar information that may help them extend the life of their entire wardrobe”. Photo credit: YNAP
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Big tech investor tells fashion industry not to trust Amazon

The pandemic ups and downs of Amazon have been well-documented. There were accusations of the ill-treatment of workers in its fulfillment centers. According to a report by the Wall Street Journal, the retailer has gathered data from sales of third party vendors to create competing products, despite its representatives having long denied engaging in the practice, even when appearing before congress. Amazon’s private label business of apparel, footwear, and jewelry includes 111 different labels and 22,617 products, according to report from Coresight Research, while, according to Bloomberg’s Billionaires Index, as the pandemic drove consumers online and directly to Amazon, Bezos’s net worth climbed from 125 billion to 143 billion dollars in the three weeks between April 12 to May 5. Meanwhile, the EU opened a formal investigation based on preliminary fact-finding to determine whether Amazon was abusing its position selling its own product while operating a market place for independent sellers. Anti-trust investigations have gained steam in the last few years as big tech companies like Facebook, Apple, Google, have finally come under scrutiny for monopolistic and unregulated behavior. But why should the fashion industry be worried about Amazon in particular? “These guys won’t kill you tomorrow, but they will kill you in 5 years,” says Roger McNamee, former mentor to Mark Zuckerberg, early investor in Facebook, and co-founder of Elevation Partners, addressing the global audience at the Business of Fashion Voices 2020 summit. He had got our attention. For several decades the fashion industry has seemed to be in the thrall of big tech, stunned by the innovation and the warp speed of progress to the point that it may have lost its own vision. Some members of the luxury sector initially attempted to keep Amazon at arm’s length. Jean-Jacques Guiony, CFO of LVMH, said in 2016, “We believe that the existing business of Amazon doesn’t fit our luxury, full stop, but also doesn’t fit with our brands. If they change the business model, I don’t know, but with the existing business model, there is no way we can do business with them for the time being.” In hindsight, one can’t help wondering why fashion’s power players––LVMH, Richemont, Kering––didn’t form an alliance to compete with the Silicon Valley biggies and perhaps build their own platform? How could they let Instagram steal in to become fashion’s favorite runway? Surveillance capitalism and the fashion industry Amazon’s business model which essentially determines that a tube of toothpaste and a cashmere cardigan are basically the same goes against the long held creed that a luxury product is elevated, special. But it is also a model that relies on what has become known as “surveillance capitalism,” the practice of tracking our every move for profit, and increasingly considered to be an assault on human rights, a threat to democracy, a coup. While the LVMH statement might have momentarily stung, it wasn’t going to deter Bezos whose sights were set on high fashion. Having already co-hosted the 2012 Met Gala with Anna Wintour, he went on to co-sponsor New York Mens Fashion Week with the CFDA. This year, just before the pandemic halted all activities, Bezos mingled again with Anna Wintour and luxury fashion’s elite at Paris Fashion Week, and rumors began to swirl that Amazon was plotting the launch of a luxury fashion platform to rival Alibaba’s Tmall. Then, in May, a New York Times headline trumpeted, “Amazon to the rescue of the fashion world!” at the launch of a new temporary storefront to provide aid to the pandemic-beleaguered US industry, named Common Threads: Vogue x Amazon Fashion, and selling cooler, contemporary labels such as Batsheva Hay, Anna Sui, Public School, 3.1 Phillip Lim, and Derek Lam’s 10 Crosby. A “thrilled” Anna Wintour declared it “an important step in the right direction.” But McNamee says fashion’s most powerful have been looking for answers in all the wrong places, and believes the industry needs to practice some self-defense: “You have the ability to influence culture and trends. Do not concede,” he warns. “Stop thinking Instagram will save you from Facebook, Tiktok will save you from Instagram…Don’t blindly follow everything little thing the [tech] industry does.” No doubt the pressure felt by small or independent brands to sell on Amazon, especially during a pandemic when they have a backlog of existing inventory, can be enormous given Amazon’s logistics prowess and customer breadth. But at a time when brand storytelling is one of the smartest tactics for success, McNamee says the tech companies “have inserted themselves between you and your customers.” Last year, sportswear giant Nike, often ahead of trends, pulled its product off Amazon to focus on its Direct-to-Consumer business after a 2-year pilot partnership did not meet expectations. Our reliance on Amazon stems from the fact that its product has come to be seen as packaged with the promise of convenience, the illusion of support, all beribboned with speed and ease of returns. Amazon can seem to anticipate our every desire, liberating us to get on with our lives. 
“Personalization is a ruse,” says McNamee, “it’s not freedom.” Amazon, like Google, Facebook and Apple, scoops up the digital breadcrumbs browsers leave behind as they meander across the internet, however far away from those sites that meander might lead, and they add the findings to the bulging digital file they have on each of us. Fashion is about developing personal style, and going rogue in pursuit of individuality is its strength. Whereas individuality is held in contempt by algorithms and predictability metrics. In fact, these big tech puppet masters require a level of consumer inertia for them to continue to thrive. The more our behavior can be manipulated and fine-tuned to conform to algorithmic trends and results, the more success Amazon achieves. The more we shop on Amazon, the fewer alternatives to Amazon remain. Jeff Bezos’s interest in fashion centers on reducing individuals to clones, encouraging a herd mentality in shopping, gobbling up competition. By clicking on one of Amazon’s wardrobe suggestions, pressing Buy Now, we are not so much purchasing an outfit as an outcome. We are not style icons but math equations. Amazon fashion and the death of personal style “Everyone you know is buying this Amazon coat,” crowed Glamour about Amazon’s Orolay multi-zippered down-lined parka, which, priced at 140 dollars, became as ubiquitous as a meme during the winter of 2017. It led to the existence of an Instagram site called theamazoncoat, features on CNN and a spot on Oprah’s Favorite Things, a 2020 maxi version launch, and over 13,000 reviews. These outerwear consumers, while well-insulated, can zip it with any claim to individuality. The fashion industry might have backed itself into the enemy’s awaiting clutches and the pandemic has further complicated matters. Fashion has elevated the very voice that seeks to silence all conversation. But McNamee believes that fashion is overestimating its need for big tech. “You have something these companies don’t have. You have heart, you have culture,” he says. “People want to hear what you have to say.” It’s a mobilizing sentiment, no doubt. But systemic change is not without hurdles and the industry will have to make short term sacrifices, even lose a few seasons’ worth of profit, for its long-term health. But for big tech companies, these one-time darlings of innovation whose goal was disruption without consequence using whatever means necessary, the tide of opinion is turning. Legislation will force change and that’s where we need to turn our focus. “I’m really optimistic the fashion industry can help get us out of this,” McNamee addresses our industry. “You’re in the culture business. Other industries want to help. Use your voice.” Image: Jeff Bezos, Amazon Corporate Fashion editor Jackie Mallon is also an educator and author of Silk for the Feed Dogs, a novel set in the international fashion industry
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Benetton appoints Martino Boselli as commercial and sales director

Benetton Group has appointed Martino Boselli as head of the commercial and sales department of United Colors of Benetton. In his new role, Boselli will be in charge of a new commercial and sales department, created to support the group’s strategic plan to become even more effective and profitable. He will report directly to CEO Massimo Renon. Boselli joins from Miroglio Fashion, where he’s worked since 2017, most recently as general manager of premium brands. He’s also worked at several international fashion companies, including VF Corp, Safilo, Amazon and Trussardi. “We are pleased that a great professional and sector expert like Martino Boselli has accepted our proposal,” CEO Massimo Renon said in a statement. “The pandemic has set us increasingly complex challenges and, with his entry into the company, we are further strengthening the relaunch trajectory that Benetton Group has undertaken.” Image: Benetton Group
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Podcast: The Glossy Podcast speaks to the founders of Axel Arigato

In this episode, The Glossy Podcast speaks to Albin Johansson and Max Svärdh, the co-founders of luxury fashion brand Axel Arigato. They discuss the gaps they noticed in the footwear market when starting their company, the importance of listening to what the consumer wants and their newly opened stores. Listen to the podcast below. Source: The Glossy Podcast via Megaphone
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Video: The 'hold me tight' clutch trend in FW20/21

In this video, the World Fashion Channel shows which labels, some of which are Jill Sander and Ralph & Russo, featured the ‘hold me tight’ clutch trend in their FW20/21 collections. Watch the video below. Video: World Fashion Channel via YouTube Photo credit: Unsplash
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Superdry: Dunkerton named permanent CEO, chairman to step down

Superdry has announced a number of changes to its executive management team as part of the company’s broader brand reset. Firstly, CEO and co-founder Julian Dunkerton, who returned to the helm of the company last year in a contentious move that sparked mass board resignations, has been appointed to the role on a permanent basis. His interim contract was previously due to expire on 2 April 2021. He is currently the largest shareholder in Superdry with a 20.3 percent stake. Dunkerton will be supported by the appointment of Silvana Bonello as chief operating officer (COO), effective 1 March. In her new position, Bonello will be responsible for enhancing the company's end-to-end operations and planning processes, encompassing merchandising, logistics, IT, business transformation, sourcing processes and corporate strategy. Bonello has previously held various senior operational and strategic roles in the US and the Netherlands, including as vice president operations for Vans EMEA, as well as an 18-year stint at Nike. “I am delighted and excited to continue as the CEO of Superdry on a permanent basis, Silvana's appointment as COO is an important next step for the business,” Dunkerton said in a statement. “With Silvana joining the executive team, we now have the right operational leadership to steer the business through these most uncertain times and drive the brand reset as we seek to inspire our customers with design-led, sustainable products and engage with them through our digital channels.” Superdry chairman to exit next year Finally, the company announced that Peter Williams will be stepping down from his role as board member and chairman in 2021, once a successor is appointed. Peter joined as chairman in April 2019, supporting Julian's return to Superdry. “I joined Superdry as Chairman with a clear goal of ensuring a smooth transition following the change of management last year. I am proud of the progress we are making to stabilise the business and reset the Superdry brand since last April,” Williams said. “Julian and Silvana's appointments are amongst the last steps in putting the right team together to secure the turnaround of the business. With the search for a new CFO well advanced, the completed executive team will be in place early next year and so 2021 is an appropriate time for me to step down. “Superdry is a world-class brand and I am proud to have played my part in its turnaround strategy and putting the foundations in place for a more successful future." Photo credit: Superdry
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Stockmann to sell, lease back properties in restructuring plan

Finnish fashion group Stockmann has announced it will sell and lease back department store properties in its portfolio as part of its restructuring plan. The company announced Monday that its restructuring programme is based on the continuation of its department store operations and the sale and lease-back of department store properties located in Helsinki, Tallinn and Riga. The group also confirmed it would retain its Lindex brand despite speculation in the past year that it could sell it off. Altogether, Stockmann said it aims to cut 20 percent of unsecured debts while reserving its creditors the right to convert this 20 percent share of the restructuring debt into the company’s series B shares. Photo credit: Lindex, Facebook
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Transparency in Luxury, Do We Really Want It?

Generation Z is having a profound effect on how fashion brands engage with their customers. They prefer shopping brands that share common values. And they are demanding more transparency from brands regarding material sourcing, pricing, environmental impact and labor practices, in order to make purchase decisions. You can also listen to this story here. More and more, Gen Z customers also prefer brands that take a stand on social justice and political issues; topics which brands have typically avoided. After all, one misstep may lead to being cancelled--leading to unwanted press, boycotts and impacting sales. However, because of its higher price point and its focus on a more mature customer demographic, luxury fashion has not had to deal with this issue as directly as more accessible brands. Sure, there have been plenty of mishaps that have led to negative press, such as the recent Dior, Gucci and Marni fiascos, but these largely blew over. What’s more, luxury brands have always been in the business of creating an escape from the real world, creating products that are more about desire than need. Brands such as Chanel and Hermes have been carefully crafting their images for decades, carefully cultivating an aura of mystery and authenticity--myth-making at its best--and certainly the opposite of transparency and true authenticity. Luca Marchetti, cultural analyst, semiotician and co-founder of The Prospectivists in Paris, agrees that “On a general level, yes, these concepts are in some ways contradictory with the traditional vision of luxury, in Europe at least.” He continues, “Even if, historically, this field was built on the highest quality and excellence, its desirability is culturally rooted in opacity and the aura projected around products. Transparency was not an option.” And he points out that during the the first Covid lockdown in Paris, many brands announced they would forego large fashion week productions, and focus on more ecological, ethical and sustainable issues. Less than six months later that ethos has already changed. Luca reflects, “Now, we see that markets are still buying a lot! And they want to see the “grandeur” in real time. So, big shows are back for many of the luxury houses.” However, this short term response may have long term effects, as luxury fashion houses cater more and more to younger customers with more affordable products and streetwear-inspired styles. The pandemic has created an inflection point. “Not so fast,” states Luca. “The market is extremely fragmented today, and so is society. Younger audiences are much more aware and flexible as for their choices, not to mention that they don't prioritize, nor do they exclude, social competition signifiers in order to express social progression.” He continues, “So yes, more and more, smaller luxury brands are playing on the grounds of transparency, inclusivity and diversity. Nonetheless, even if the larger luxury brands are more and more interested in attracting younger audiences, they can still rely on an older global consumer to grant them temporary prosperity, without having to imagine a massive system change.” What’s more, these luxury brands operate on a global scale with myriad nuanced cultural and political issues. Stepping into a social debate centered in the U.S. could backfire in Europe, or China, especially around issues that the brand has very little connection with. And yet, as a more diverse group of consumers begin buying luxury goods, taking a stand may be unavoidable, especially in a world driven by social media and disruptors like DietPrada. Luca believes this is partly a mediatic effect, or a new code of communication. He says, “it's good to debate, it's good to show good will, etc. However, behaviors change more slowly. There is always a time gap, a delay, between the emergence of new imaginaries who represent collective values in the media and consumption behaviours.” He punctuates this with: “This is the difference between the “individual" and the ‘consumer,’ which we all are. As individuals, we don't behave in the same way we do as consumers.” So what we can expect from luxury brands in the future? Luca replies, “Real change will come, when it will be an obligation. It will just be harsher and even more expensive.”
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Luxury Challenged by Generational Demands

Generation Z is having a profound effect on how fashion brands engage with their customers. They prefer brands that take a stand on social justice and political issues; topics which brands have typically avoided. What’s more, luxury brands have always been in the business of creating an escape from the real world, creating products that are more about desire than need. Luxery is about a carefully cultivated aura of mystery and authenticity. The opposite of transparency and true authenticity. Listen to the full podcast about this luxury challenge here
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Next opens store at Icon Outlet

Next has opened a new 4,700 square foot store at London’s Icon Outlet at The O2. The new space, which is on the lower level alongside Nike, Adidas, will stock the Lipsy brand as well as the group’s apparel and footwear lines for women, men and children, and homeware and beauty products. Next joins Icon Outlet’s line-up of over 60 brands including Lacoste, Hugo Boss, Tommy Hilfiger, Levi’s and Gap. The retailer has over 500 stores in the UK and around 200 are across Europe, Asia, Oceania and the Middle East. “We are very pleased to have opened our latest space at Icon Outlet alongside its impressive existing fashion and lifestyle offering,” a spokesperson on behalf of Next said in a statement. They continued: “Next continues to make strides in both the British and international retail markets, and this latest store marks a new focus for us post lockdown. We are looking forward to welcoming the public to a space that embraces the Next brand.” Icon Outlet has recently extended its trading hours by 80 percent in the Christmas build-up, with retailers permitted to open earlier each day and remain open until 9pm Monday-Saturday. Marion Dillon, leasing director for Icon Outlet, said: “Next is a highly relevant addition for our strong family customer base, alongside the best of British and international brands. The new store is one of the largest spaces within Icon Outlet and the Next Group and their wider portfolio of brands will significantly enhance our family fashion and homeware offering at Icon Outlet.” Photo credit: Icon Outlet
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Primark owner reportedly joins race to buy Arcadia

Associated British Foods, the owner of fast-fashion retailer Primark, has reportedly joined the line-up of potential suitors for Arcadia Group. Arcadia, whose portfolio includes Topshop, Burton and Dorothy Perkins, called in administrators from Deloitte at the end of November after its trading was “severely impacted” by the pandemic. The move put some 13,000 jobs at risk. Associated British Foods is now thought to be among a list of other leading fashion retailers circling Arcadia Group empire, which is expected to be broken up, The Times reports. Boohoo, Frasers Group, Marks & Spencer, Next and River Island are also thought to be part of a list of potential suitors. According to The Times, there have been dozens of expressions of interest, though it’s uncertain whether these will turn into firm offers, which are due by the end of this week. Last week, there were reports that administrators of Arcadia were seeking bids of up to 200 million pounds for the Topshop brand as they look to seal a deal before Christmas. Also last week, Mike Ashley’s Frasers Group confirmed interest in snapping up brands from the collapsed retail empire. Photo credit: FashionUnited
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Dior criticised for continuing to use Johnny Depp in ad campaign

The House of Dior has been criticised for continuing to publish an advertisement with actor Johnny Depp, who remains the face of its Sauvage product. The LVMH-owned company has come under fire from domestic abuse organisations after the actor was found to have assaulted his ex wife in a highly publicised civil hearing earlier this year. The televised ad continues to be shown during high viewership programming. Domestic abuse lawyer Rachel Horman-Brown told MailOnline it was ‘disappointing and irresponsible’ that the high-end brand continues to work with Depp. She said the ongoing contract was an ‘insult’ and suggests the fashion house, ‘has no concern for women or their lives.’ While Mr Depp has a fanbase that may look well past his domestic incidents, Dior as a House in recent years has been highly active as a champion of women. It has embraced an increasingly feminist agenda under creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri, often signposting at catwalk shows , including slogans such as “consent”, “patriarchy kills” and “everyone should be a feminist”. Some may suggest Dior may not have had enough time to turnaround a new campaign, however it could be argued it has other means at its disposal to advertise a brand without publishing imagery featuring Mr Depp. Both Walt Disney and Warner Bros, two of the most powerful Hollywood studios, have severed ties with Mr Depp. Dior is yet to follow suit. Want to stay up-to-date on the latest developments in the fashion industry? Sign up for the FashionUnited newsletter!
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Pre-Fall 2021: Collections overview

As the Pre Fall season gets underway, designers are reflecting consumer desire for comfort in both a practical and emotional sense. Nostalgic references, feel-good, tactile pieces, relaxed, youthful shapes imbue collections with a sense of optimism, whilst retaining their luxury credentials through celebrations of refined artisanship and couture heritage. Trendstop brings FashionUnited readers a first look at the latest Pre Fall collections arriving for 2021. Chanel The historic 16th century Château de Chenonceau provided the backdrop for a Chanel showcase of the brand’s Maison d’Art suppliers. Putting their fine workmanship on display, Creative Director, Virginie Viard, referenced 16th century silhouettes, gothic monochrome checkerboard and renaissance motifs, intermingling them with contemporary tracksuit bottoms, miniskirts, evening sweaters and Lycra leggings that spoke to a more casual way of dressing. The youthful, modern vibe continued with Lego brick-inspired sequins playfully updating traditional trompe l’oeil. Images courtesy of Trendstop, left to right: all Chanel Pre Fall 2021. Jil Sander Channeling a more sophisticated take on the comfort dressing trend, the Jil Sander Pre Fall outing offered a softer spin on the label’s signature minimalism. Warm knitted pieces, tactile fabrications and a subtle sports influences introduced an easy wearability to previously sharp tailored looks. Decorative touches and Bauhaus-inspired jewellery touched on the playful yet artisanal approach underscoring the season. Images courtesy of Trendstop, left to right: all Jil Sander Pre Fall 2021. Salvatore Ferragamo Comfort and ease were also the hallmarks of Paul Andrew’s collection for Salvatore Ferragamo. Silhouettes with an elegant simplicity, were underpinned by a new, sustainable direction for the brand, focusing on investment dressing, longevity and durability. Deadstock and recycled materials, traceable natural fibres and upcycled trims were applied to luxurious yet practical items such as packable or ultra-light puffa coats, layering pieces and adjustable details. Archival motifs and hand painted finishes alluded to themes of craftsmanship and heritage once again. Images courtesy of Trendstop, left to right: all Salvatore Ferragamo Pre Fall 2021. Exclusive Offer: FashionUnited readers can get free access to Trendstop’s Pre Fall 2020 Key Print Directions report, featuring all the essential print & pattern trends of the season. Simply click the banner to receive your free report. Trendstop.com is one of the world's leading trend forecasting agencies for fashion and creative professionals, renowned for its insightful trend analysis and forecasts. Clients include H&M, Primark, Forever 21, Zalando, Geox, Evisu, Hugo Boss, L'Oreal and MTV.
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Arcadia administrators seek bids of up to 200 million pounds for Topshop

Administrators of Arcadia are reportedly seeking bids of up to 200 million pounds for the Topshop brand as they look to seal a deal before Christmas. Initial bids are expected to be filed by the end of next week, with online fast-fashion giant Boohoo considered the most likely buyer for the brand, according to The Guardian. Boohoo’s approach is also reportedly being backed by Arcadia boss Sir Philip Green. This comes a day after Mike Ashley’s Frasers Group confirmed interest in snapping up brands from Green’s collapsed retail empire. Other companies thought to be interested include Next, Marks & Spencer and private equity group Alteri. It is understood administrators have seen a significant amount of interest across the Arcadia brands, with several sources saying administrators were seeking as much as 200 million pounds for Topshop. However, one source told The Guardian: “It doesn’t mean they will get that”. Photo credit: FashionUnited
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Few fashion names feature on Forbes’ most powerful women in 2020 list

US business magazine Forbes has one again published its annual list of the 100 most powerful women in the world. In 2020, there are only a few fashion names on the list with Tory Burch of the New York fashion label by the same name taking the 88th spot and Renuka Jagtiani, CEO of the Dubai-based Landmark Group that sells apparel, footwear, cosmetics and beauty products among others, at No. 98. This means there are no fashion names among the Top 50 or even the Top 75 - most likely because Covid-19 took over everyone’s interest, illustrated by the 17 newcomers on this year’s power list that all had an impact on how the pandemic was handled like UPS CEO Carol Tomé (No. 11) and Clorox head Linda Rendle (No. 87) who were responsible for helping provide essential services. CVS Health executive vice president and incoming CEO Karen Lynch (No. 38) currently leads the pharmacy giant’s vast Covid testing program and will be responsible for its handling of Covid vaccines in 2021. Heading retail conglomerates that make their money with clothing, accessories and related products among other categories are Walmart CEO Judith McKenna at No. 17 and Alibaba CFO Maggie Wei Wu at No. 60. Among singers who have branched out into fashion is Rihanna in 69th place who co-owns her make-up brand Fenty Beauty together with luxury group LVMH. Beyonce started her activewear line Ivy Park in 2016 and occupies the 72nd slot. Unlike in previous years, there were no designers, models or other representatives of the fashion industry among Forbes’ 17th annual 100 most powerful women in 2020 list. Political and financial leaders continue to occupy the top slots with Angela Merkel, Christine Lagarde, Kamala Harris and Ursula von der Leyen leading the list (in this order). But, things can change fast and as soon-to-be US vice president Kamala Harris said: “While I may be the first woman in this office, I will not be the last.” Image: Forbes
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