Report says nearly half of consumers could boycott brands not voicing stance on Ukraine

Image: Ivan Shilov via Unsplash Analytics and consulting company GlobalData has said brands could face a challenging environment if they do not take a strong stand against Russia’s ongoing conflict with Ukraine. The firm’s report comes as an increasing number of Western brands pull their operations out of Russia, with some also ceasing to stock Russian products in their stores. According to GlobalData, almost half of global consumers, 41 percent, agreed that they would boycott a brand if it doesn’t align with their personal beliefs or values. This percentage, the company said, could come into play as pressure from consumers grows in the face of Russia’s invasion, adding that brands that do take a firm stance are more likely to be favoured by consumers. In its report, GlobalData’s senior health and beauty analyst, Lia Neophytou, said: “This is a drastic but necessary move when considering not only the evolving complications of doing business in the market, but also the potential backlash from consumers around the globe if this decision was not made.” Highlighting LVMH’s withdrawal from the region, GlobalData noted the luxury group’s move comes despite the Russian market providing an estimated 6.6 percent in cosmetics and toiletries sales in 2020, an equivalent of over 300 million dollars, as calculated by the analytics company. It suggested the move is one that could win over its consumers, in comparison to those that have opted to continue operating in Russia.
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Gap’s Yeezy partnership under scrutiny following Kanye West criticism

Opinion Image: Yeezy Gap Engineered by Balenciaga Gap’s longstanding partnership with Kanye West is under scrutiny and could be tainted in controversy after the designer and singer was temporarily suspended from Instagram after voicing a racial slur. West, who now goes by the name Ye, regularly posts unfiltered ire towards ex wife Kim Kardashian and new partner actor Pete Davidson, before deleting them. Gap has seen a slew of negative comments on its own social media, particularly with users asking the brand to end its collaboration with Yeezy. One comment on Gap’s recent post reads: “Oh hell yes I love dudes who very publicly harass the mother of their children! Sign me up!” In fashion, image is everything Gap will be keen to avoid a public relations issue that threatens to tarnish its image in the midst of a company turnaround. Gap has been plagued for years with underperforming store sales and lacklustre collections. Its partnership with Yeezy breathed new life into the high street brand, attracting a younger consumer and bringing relevancy to its fashion offer. Yeezy Gap, which officially launched last year, is a 10-year agreement between Mr West’s Yeezy brand and Gap Inc, which also operates Banana Republic and Old Navy. Mr West has often expressed his desire to bring his designs to the masses, and was once quoted as saying he dreamed of being Gap’s Creative Director. Mr West is thought to earn a percentage of sales, which could potentially reach billions of dollars. Irking investors Mr West’s videos and comments on social media are being viewed as harassment toward Ms Kardashian, who to date has refrained from publicly commenting on their separation and subsequent fall out. Ms Kardashian, in turn, has managed to retain positive consumer sentiment for both herself and her brands, while Mr West has irked investors. It should be noted, however, that Ms Kardashian is launching a new swimwear category under her Skims label and is promoting the first season of the family’s reality series set to debut on Hulu in April. Her management team will be careful to spin a positive light from any personal drama. The Yeezy Gap Balenciaga tie-up, a coup for Gap and the first three-way collaboration with a Kering-owned luxury brand, is threatening to be overshadowed by Mr West’s personal problems. As of Thursday Mr West’s Instagram account had all posts removed. Investors are keenly aware that Gap’s Yeezy contract is as fully tied to the creativity as it is to the persona that is Kanye West. Any association of negativity that tarnishes Mr West will reflect on Gap.
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Runway to Retail: Rainbow Knits

Image: Courtesy Kule March is said to come in like a lion and go out like a lamb, and in most of Europe and the East Coast of the US, it can be a tricky time of year for clothing retailers. Floors need to combine the winter sale, resort and spring 1 collections. It is perhaps for this reason that knit tops, sweaters and dresses in rainbow colors have shown up in all the recent drops. This is considered to be 'dopamine dressing' and traverses the seasons. Dopamine dressing Image: Courtesy Pinterest Pinterest describes dopamine’ dressing as "all about feel-good fits with an electric kick, and is driven by all genders and age groups." Dopamine is a type of neurotransmitter or chemical messenger, which the nervous system uses to send messages between nerve cells. It plays a big role in how humans feel pleasure. According to verywellmind.com, dopamine dressing involves "dressing with the intention of boosting your mood". Color, style, and texture can all have psychological associations and are often tied to memories. Getting out of your comfort zone when it comes to clothes can also trigger dopamine release." Tracing the trend 1967 was known as the 'Summer of Love'; a drug-induced social phenomenon wherein 100,000 'flower children' descended upon San Francisco. In turn this spawned several fashion trends including wearing bright rainbow colors. Over time the rainbow became associated with the LGBTQ community before traveling full circle back into mainstream fashion. The late '90s saw a complete rejection of bright colors in fashion, both at the high end and at street level. The anxiety over the threats presented by Y2K led to consumer demand for dark clothing in shades known as 'faux blacks.' In complete contrast, designers stepped into the light of the Millennium and the runways of SS2000 were awash in red, orange, green and yellow. The previous 20 years have proven that color is here to stay in fashion. The choice is yours, wear black to display a dark mood or wear bright colors to fight it. In Living Color: Cruise 2022 Chloé Resort 22/Catwalk PicturesChloé Resort 22/Catwalk Pictures Back in late 2020 it seemed as if Christopher John Rogers "came out of nowhere." In just two short years, when it comes to making use of bright colors, he's the name on everyone's lips. Christopher John Rogers Resort SS22/Catwalk Pictures In a strong showing for resort 22 he presented a variety of looks from sweaters to dresses in punchy rainbow bright colors. At Chloé, Gabriela Hearst showed colorful striped sweater knits with a large gauge handmade feel. It was a similar statement at Staud, with a rainbow knit sweater worn over a rainbow knit sweater dress and at Ulla Johnson where a striped ribbed top was matched to pants. Even Oscar de la Renta played up the dopamine vibe, showing a space dyed knit sweater with a floor length pink taffeta skirt. Ulla Johnson SS22/Catwalk PicturesOscar de la Renta Resort SS22/Catwalk Pictures Early spring 2022: retail is a rainbow Image: Courtesy The Elder Statesman On the cusp of the new spring season, retailers are showing wear-now knit goods in bright colors. Oscar de la Renta's version is in cotton knit. Image: Courtesy Wolf & Badger At Wolf & Badger, the 'Rita' jumper has a rainbow across the chest and arms; at Kule, the 'Holly' comes in a rainbow version and The Elder Statesman is showing a cashmere jumper in a horizontal stripe. As we wait for spring, retailers are hoping that rainbow dressing can kick the winter blues out. Image: Courtesy Kule
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Met Gala names hosts

Image: The Met Museum The Superbowl of fashion is nipping at our heels, and yes, we are talking about that annual time of the year, the Met Gala. This morning, the event announced its co-chairs, which include Blake Lively, Ryan Reynolds, Regina King, and Lin-Manuel Miranda. The event has returned to its annual time slot of the first Monday in May. The upcoming Costume Institute exhibit is a continuation of last year’s exhibit “In American: A Lexicon of Fashion.” The theme of the night will be Gilded Glamour, so plenty of old Hollywood style is expected on this year's Met Gala red carpet. Now, this begs the question, who will give their best Clark Gable and best Grace Kelly. American designer Tom Ford, head of Instagram Adam Mosseri, and American Vogue editor-in-chief and Condé Nast artistic director Anna Wintour are co-chairing the event. Compounding on last year’s theme, this year’s theme is “In America: An Anthology of Fashion.” The current exhibit will still be on view at The Met until September. The Met Gala continues to provide the Costume Institute with its primary funding. In 2020, the event was canceled due to the COVID-19 pandemic. Last year the event was held in September as COVID-19 restrictions lifted, and aligned with New York Fashion Week, helping bring a revival of sorts to both events as the first in-person version for both events since pre-pandemic. The current exhibit features many famed American designers, including Ralph Lauren, Donna Karan, Stephen Burrows, and Prabal Gurung. The next series of American designers will be featured in a series of installations in the period rooms of the American Wing, focusing on designers from the 19th century to the mid-late 20th century. Around 100 pieces of both menswear and womenswear are planned for display. The exhibit will officially open to the public on May 7.
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H&M begins selling external brands on select market websites

Image: H&M Spring Statements 2022 Fast fashion retailer H&M has begun selling external brands on some of its websites, a feature it is looking to reportedly expand on. Starting in Sweden and Germany, H&M is said to be making steps to take on other fashion marketplaces like Asos and Zalando, according to Reuters. While other brands in the H&M Group like Arket already sell external brands, H&M has previously only sold outside beauty products. In a statement to the publication, a spokesperson for the company said: “Customers are now able to shop from more brands in the H&M Group family, as well as from a curated selection of other fashion brands such as Lee, Wrangler and Kangol, among others.” The spokesperson added the concept was launched in Germany in March and will continue to grow into other markets over time. They also mentioned H&M’s Swedish store has debuted its second-hand offer.
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90 percent of former Debenhams stores remain empty

Image: Debenhams Debenhams’ former high street stores are yet to see new life as they remain empty and unused. A report by the Local Data Company, cited by the Guardian, said 90 percent of Debenhams stores are still vacant, nearly one year after the company ceased trading. At its height Debenhams operated 150 stores, but after its collapse the brand was bought by Boohoo, which said it would continue to trade the business online but had no use for its physical outlets. In many towns Debenhams was an anchor store, making it challenging to find sizeable tenants, as only larger scale retailers have the goods capacity to fill vast floor spaces and shelves. When BHS collapsed some of its stores were still empty 5 years later, a scenario many towns with Debenhams stores hope to avoid as it impacts attractiveness of a street.
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Chinese sportswear brand Li-Ning has products seized at US port after sanctions

Image: Li-Ning Chinese sportswear brand Li-Ning Sporting Goods has found itself in political crossfires after a shipment of sneakers was seized at a US port. Some of Li-Ning’s products are made in North Korea and sanctions levied via Countering America’s Adversaries Through Sanctions Act (CAATSA) resulted in US border control prohibiting the entry of goods into the States. The sanctions came into effect on 14 March, despite Li-Ning being headquartered in Beijing. “CAATSA is yet another tool in CBP’s trade enforcement arsenal that allows us to uphold the fundamental value of human dignity and to ensure the goods that enter the United States are free from forced labor,” AnnMarie Highsmith, CBP Office of Trade executive assistant commissioner, said in a statement. The America’s are an attractive market for Chinese brands, and sanctions could stifle growth and expansion ambitions. Not entitled to entry US Customs and Border Control (UCB) said Li-Ning merchandise will not be entitled to entry unless the importer provides clear and convincing evidence that their merchandise was not produced with convict labour, forced labour, or indentured labour under penal sanctions within 30 days of notice of detention. If the company fails to provide clear and convincing evidence within this timeframe the merchandise may be subject to seizure and forfeiture. Li Ning revenue is primarily generated in its home market, with 98.9 of sales in China and only 1.1 percent from international sales, according to the brand’s latest filings. Globally the brand sells its collections via stores on Amazon USA and Japan. Li-Ning said in a statement on its Investor’s Relations website that “as a professional sports brand company, the Group has a sound corporate governance system in place, strictly complies with the laws, regulations and compliance policies of the PRC, and upholds ethical standards.” It also said its board would not “respond to the speculations or allegations individually.”
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Bob Hull and Peter Sachse to continue as Tailored Brands co-CEOs

Image: Men's Wearhouse, Facebook Tailored Brands, Inc. has announced that board members Bob Hull and Peter Sachse will continue as co-CEOs moving forward to provide continuity to the organisation. The company said in a release that Hull and Sachse were both appointed as interim co-CEOs and joined the company’s board on March 16, 2021. Since that time, they have solidified a strong and united leadership team, refocused key departments and led the company to outperform its revenue and profit targets for each quarter. Commenting on the development, board chairman Paul Soldatos stated: “While we had launched a search for a CEO successor last year, we ultimately determined there was more to be gained by maintaining continuity in the leadership team and allowing this team to realise the full value of the careful planning and reorganisation they completed over the past year.” Bob Hull and Peter Sachse to continue as co-CEOs of Tailored Brands Hull and Sachse, the company added, are seasoned leaders with experience leading large-scale organisational transformations and building high-performing teams. Both have served as active directors for a number of public and private companies as well. Hull has three decades of retail experience, including 17 years at Lowe’s Companies with the last 14 years as chief financial officer. Sachse previously spent 34 years in various positions at Macy’s, Inc., including chief stores officer, chief marketing officer and chairman and chief executive officer of Macys.com. Tailored Brands names John Tighe as president In conjunction with this decision, the company said, John Tighe will be promoted to president of Tailored Brands. In this new role, Tighe will continue to have end-to-end accountability for merchandising, marketing, e-commerce, rental, planning and allocation across the Men’s Wearhouse, Jos. A. Bank and Moores banners and will now oversee product development, design, global sourcing as well as the Joseph Abboud Manufacturing Corporation. Before joining Tailored Brands, Tighe served as president of Peerless Clothing, the largest manufacturer of men’s and boys’ tailored clothing in North America. Prior to Peerless, he served as the chief merchant and EVP at JCPenney. Hull and Sachse commented on Tighe’s promotion, saying: “We are extremely fortunate to have John on our team as we move into this next phase of our company’s growth strategy. He brings a holistic view of the product life cycle and how best to exceed customer expectations from procurement to cart—and everywhere in between.”
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Guess Q4 profit down, appoints Dennis Secor as interim CFO

Image: Guess, Facebook For the fourth quarter of fiscal 2022, Guess recorded GAAP net earnings of 68.4 million dollars, a 14.1 percent decrease from the fourth quarter of fiscal 2020. GAAP diluted EPS decreased 11.9 percent to 1.04 dollars for the quarter. The company’s adjusted net earnings were 75.2 million dollars, an 8.7 percent decrease compared to the fourth quarter of fiscal 2020, while adjusted diluted EPS decreased 6.6 percent to 1.14 dollars. Total net revenue decreased 5 percent to 799.9 million dollars, while in constant currency, net revenue decreased by 5 percent. Guess also announced that Dennis Secor has been appointed interim chief financial officer effective April 1, 2022. Secor previously served as Guess CFO from 2006 to 2012 and succeeds Katie Anderson, who is stepping down to pursue another opportunity at a privately-held company as CFO. Commenting on the results and CFO transition, Carlos Alberini, the company’s chief executive officer, said: “We delivered revenues in line with our expectations and exceeded our profit targets through strong gross margin performance and effective expense management. We closed the year with over 300 million dollars in earnings from operations and reached an operating margin of 11.8 percent, more than double our pre-pandemic levels by both measures.” “Katie has played an important role in our ongoing business transformation, including strengthening our balance sheet, implementing cost savings measures and delivering for our shareholders. We’re pleased to welcome Dennis back to Guess. Given his deep knowledge of Guess and its business, as well as his extensive industry experience, Dennis is uniquely positioned to build on our financial momentum and support the continued advancement of our strategy,” Alberini added. Guess earnings drop 2.8 percent against Q42021 For the fourth quarter of fiscal 2022, the company recorded GAAP net earnings of 68.4 million dollars, a 2.8 percent decrease from the fourth quarter of fiscal 2021. GAAP diluted EPS decreased 2.8 percent to 1.04 dollars. The company’s adjusted net earnings were 75.2 million dollars, a 3.2 percent decrease compared to the fourth quarter of fiscal 2021, while adjusted diluted EPS decreased 3.4 percent to 1.14 dollars. Total net revenue increased 23.4 percent to 799.9 million dollars and in constant currency, net revenue increased by 28.1 percent. Guess FY22 results compared to FY21 and FY20 For the fiscal year ended January 29, 2022, the company recorded GAAP net earnings of 171.4 million dollars, a 78.5 percent increase from the fiscal year ended February 1, 2020 and compared to a GAAP net loss of 81.2 million dollars for the fiscal year ended January 30, 2021. GAAP diluted EPS increased 93.2 percent to 2.57 dollars, and compared to GAAP diluted loss per share of 1.27 dollars for fiscal 2021. The company recorded adjusted net earnings of 194.7 million dollars, an 85.4 percent increase compared to fiscal 2020 and compared to an adjusted net loss of 4.5 million dollars for fiscal 2021, while adjusted diluted EPS increased 101.4 percent to 2.92 dollars. Total net revenue for the year decreased 3.2 percent to 2.59 billion dollars from fiscal 2020 and increased 38.1 percent compared to fiscal 2021. In constant currency, net revenue increased by 37 percent in 2021 and decreased by 4.9 percent compared to fiscal 2020. Guess expects FY23 revenues to be up low-single digits The company expects revenues in the first quarter of fiscal 2023 to be up in the low-teens versus the first quarter of fiscal 2022 mainly driven by last year’s temporary store closures, wholesale growth and positive store comps. For the full fiscal year 2023, assuming no Covid-related shutdowns, Guess expects revenues to be up in the low-single digits versus fiscal 2022 and operating margin to reach approximately 10.5 percent. The company said, outlook for the first quarter and the year reflects significant disruptions in Russia. The company’s board of directors approved a quarterly cash dividend of 225 cents per share payable on April 15, 2022 to shareholders of record as of the close of business on March 30, 2022.
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How the fashion industry is misusing sustainability metrics

Image: Cotton via Pexels Despite the fashion industry’s progress in tackling sustainability, a lack of vital metrics makes it challenging to define. Current definitions veer toward a narrow scope that fails to assess the impact on the entire value chain. In the report the Great Green Washing Machine Part 1: Back to The Roots Of Sustainability, its authors argue sustainability assertions in fashion are based solely upon purported environmental impact, whilst the impact on farmers is not accurately captured, if at all. Authors Veronica Bates-Kassatly, Dorothee Baumann-Pauly and The Geneva Center For Business and Human Rights (GCBHR) in the second report, The Use And Misuse of Sustainability Metrics In Fashion, demonstrate that even the environmental impact of fashion is not being correctly assessed, neither broadly, nor narrowly. “The leading brands and their funded initiatives are focusing on the wrong thing. They look at impact at the factory gate when what matters is impact per wear. They are conflating sustainability with environmental impact when climate justice must have human rights at the core. And the one thing that they do look at - environmental impact - they aren't even measuring correctly.” - Veronica Bates Kassatly told FashionUnited. Current assessments are broadly incorrect for two reasons. Firstly, because measurement is cradle to gate rather than cradle to grave so the harmful outcomes in some garments’ use and disposal are ignored. And secondly, because impacts are calculated per kilo, when what really matters – what is key – is impact per wear. Clothes are supposed to be worn multiple times, and if garments of some fabrics are worn many times more than others – and that does appear to be the case – then that should be included in sustainability calculations. If a dress “costs” 12, whether that is US Dollars or an environmental measure, and it is worn once, the cost is 12 per wear. If another dress “costs” 1,200, and is worn 100 times, the cost/impact is also 12 per wear. The difference is that at the end of those ‘100 times’, in the first case there are 100 dresses to dispose of, and in the second, only one. Throughout this report, an associated action point for each concern is provided for policymakers and corporations, ensuring that in meeting the needs of the present, organisations are not compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs. "We need to instil scientific rigor in the sustainable fashion debate. Unless sustainability claims of fashion brands are backed by data from independent scientific studies, they should not be made public to guide consumers, investors and policy-makers.” - Dorothee Baumann-Pauly told FashionUnited. Unravelling fact from fiction in organic fibre claims In the context of cotton, fashion brands are increasingly advertising garments that are made of organic cotton and claiming that organic cotton farming needs less water, when in fact organic cotton consumes 10 percent more water per tonne of seed cotton than conventional production. Despite this, brands including H&M, have recently claimed on their websites that clothes made of organic cotton uses 87-88 percent less water than those made of conventional cotton - based on the Higg MSI. The Great Green Washing Machine report states this claim is misleading because it asserts that it is the organic production system that accounts for the difference in water consumption, when in fact it is just rainfall. ##Lower yields versus pollution Fashion avidly promotes organic farming as a solution to many of the industry’s impact problems. Switching to organic production, however, means lower yields and so higher prices.More land will have to be put under cultivation for crops, as well as for the livestock needed to produce organic fertilizer. More land under cultivation will, in turn, reduce biodiversity. Another overlooked issue with organic farming is the animal manure that is widely used as fertilizer. Indeed manure - animal dung used to fertilize land - is a key overlooked aspect in most calculations of what makes different fibers sustainable or otherwise. The report iterates it is unacceptable that sustainable fashion simply whitewashes the negative impacts of the use of manure in organic cotton production from the picture and presses farmers to convert to organic systems without ever having undertaken any studies whatsoever of the potential for such cultivation to impact negatively on sustainable development goals. The paper argues that sustainability is complex and multi-faceted and that in fashion sustainability is not currently measured comprehensively or scientifically. Only environmental impact is examined and even that is not being accurately. The current simplistic system considers only one aspect of sustainability and assumes that anything that is either produced organically, or has the prefix ‘re’ (recycle, resale, rental), is automatically more sustainable. There is, however, no data to substantiate any of these claims and the reality is far more nuanced. The simplest and quickest way to reduce the negative impact of fashion would be to increase the number of wears for every item produced. At present this is not considered in any system and it is self- evident that if consumers believe that as long as they rent, or purchase second-hand, or only choose ‘sustainable’ fibers, they can churn through as many different items as before, any improvements will be marginal at best (rental items “worn more than 40 times are not an improvement on the average of 80 wears per owner. Moving towards meaningful criteria of sustainability measurement, the authors make five recommendations: * Fashion corporations and global policymakers must assess the socio-economic impacts of fiber production and place these front and center in any and all sustainability, claims, rankings, and labelling. * Regulatory frameworks must include living wages. It is unscientific and illogical to assert that a garment is ‘sustainable’ based on fiber choice, when said garment was made by workers who were not paid a living wage. * Governments must require fashion brands to provide comprehensive, accurate and verified sustainability information. Private corporations cannot be allowed to unilaterally decide upon the impact of different fibers. * Global resources must be better managed to promote the use of farmed fibers and co-products. * Reduce the use of plastic fibres. For further information and to read the full report go to www.eco-age.com. Article source: The Great Green Washing Machine Part 2: The Use And Misuse of Sustainability Metrics In Fashion
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Zara owner Inditex almost triples FY net profit

Image: Inditex media room Fashion giant Inditex has more than doubled its full-year net profit in fiscal 2021 as sales surpassed past pre-pandemic levels. The group, which owns brands Zara, Massimo Dutti and Pull & Bear, reported net income of 3.2 billion euros in the year to January 31, an increase of 193 percent compared to the prior year. Net sales came in at 27.7 billion euros, up 37 percent in constant currency compared to 2020, and up 3 percent compared to pre-Covid 2019 levels. The group’s online sales performed particularly well, up 14 percent year-over-year to reach 7.5 billion euros, and representing 25.5 percent of total annual sales. By 2024, it expects online sales to account for more than 30 percent of annual sales. Omicron impacts Q4 sales While the company recovered well from the pandemic during the year, the fourth quarter was impacted significantly by the spread of the Omnicron variant, and the restrictions in most markets including Austria, The Netherlands, Germany, Japan, China and the Philippines. Inditex said this sudden drop in store sales generated a one-off impact of 400 million euros in the fourth quarter. The group also revealed Wednesday that its current trading has been strong, with store and online sales in constant currency for the period of February 1 to March 13 up 33 percent compared to 2021 levels and up 21 percent compared to 2019 levels. Russia and Ukraine represented around 5 percent of its sales growth in the period. Earlier this month, Inditex announced it would be closing all 502 of its stores in Russia following the country’s invasion of Ukraine.
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Brunello Cucinelli buys 43 percent stake in cashmere supplier Cariaggi Lanificio

Image: Brunello Cucinelli Luxury Italian brand Brunello Cucinelli has snapped up a 43 percent stake in cashmere supplier Cariaggi Lanificio. The transaction was valued at just over 15 million euros and was financed entirely by Brunello Cucinelli’s own means, the company announced to the Italian Stock Exchange on Wednesday. Cariaggi Lanificio was founded in 1958 and is headquartered in Cagli, a commune in the province of Pesaro e Urbino, in the Marche region of central Italy. Following the acquisition, the founding Cariaggi family, which holds 57 percent of the share capital, will maintain the control and day-to-day management of the company Its CEO Piergiorgio Cariaggi said in a statement: “We are very pleased to have completed this transaction, which will allow the company to continue developing products of excellence. “We are more than happy with the agreement with Brunello Cucinelli, our long-standing customer, with whom we share a vision of quality, service, innovation and a focus on our people.” Brunello Cucinelli said the decision came as part of a “major project to support Made in Italy, which we believe represents something important on the world luxury scene”. “It is with a great sense of gratitude that we announce that our company has acquired 43 percent of Cariaggi Lanificio, of Cagli,” said the brand’s founder Cucinelli. He continued: “I have always believed that Cariaggi is perhaps one of the jewels of Italian manufacturing, with products of great quality and craftsmanship; there is no doubt that it should be counted among the first industries in the sector in the world, if not the first, and that it represents something important for our territory and its culture.”
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Item of the week: the flared trouser

(From left) Image: Na-kd, Humanoid, Alter Ego What it is: The flared trouser, also known as a bell-bottom, is typically a pant style that widens at the knee, a silhouette that is often interpreted differently depending on how big of a statement is being made. Styles can be found in extreme shapes, like elephant bells, or more subtle flares, closer to a boot-cut, and can also be seen with extreme embellishments or complete with a high waist designed to elongate the legs. The bell-bottoms arguably made their fashion debut in the 60s and, above all, the 70s, prior to mostly being used as sailors uniforms for a long period of time. Cementing themselves as the it-trousers for the two decades, the pant style was worn by the likes of glam rock icons, trendy youths, the working class and the average dad, alike. While the staple look has never really lost its appeal, its current resurgence can mostly be attributed to Generation Z’s rejection of slim fit silhouettes, putting the flares back in the forefront of fashion. Image: Niza Why you’ll want it: The 70s staple regularly returns to popularity year after year due to its practical and flattering silhouette that provides an alternative to typical jeans and other trouser styles. As mentioned earlier, its recent revival could be accredited to Gen Z, who last year collectively denounced skinny jeans and caused the Millennial-favoured style to almost disappear from stores. While the flare is usually defined by its exaggerated hemline, designs can also vary dramatically, allowing for the trouser style to appeal to different wearers depending on their personal taste. Material types are also not definitive for the look. While flared jeans may be on top for popularity, trouser designs can also consist of stretch materials and knits that are a more casual and comfortable substitute. This allows both a retailer and a customer to opt for a style that suits their fashion identity best. Image: Scotch & Soda Where we’ve seen it: Like the trouser style’s hippie origins, Etro drew direct inspiration from the 60s and 70s, in a collection that was reminiscent of a Woodstock festival crowd. Alongside heavily printed ponchos and waistcoats, the brand presented crochet bell-bottoms as a comfortable yet stylish flare option for autumn. Paisley trousers also hinted at the brand’s boho aesthetic for the season, paired with clashing leopard print for a bold outfit style. For the label’s autumn 2022 collection, Stella McCartney also opted for the vintage-like flare, included in a range of, what the designer labelled as, “tailored hippie” suits. The 70s vibe was further emphasised by the brand’s use of geometric and pin-stripe prints that defined McCartney’s new design direction. Harris Reed’s fluid, monarchy-inspired collection also consisted of statement flares, albeit in a modernised take. Lace designs, tailored yellow looks and dramatic velvet trousers stood their ground next to Reed’s range of oversized embellishments and signature headwear, each subtly nodding to Victorian era fashion, the theme of the young designers line. Image: Dorothee Schumacher How to style it: The flare comes with a lot of styling flexibility and can be suitable for both safe shoppers and more daring fashion enthusiasts. For an effortless daily look, a simple outfit can consist of sneakers and oversized knitwear or shirts, a seasonally transitional style that can work for different parts of the year. The trousers can be dressed up with strappy heels and a glittery crop top or a bodysuit, which won’t take away from the flared silhouette. If the 70s look is what is desired, pair the trousers with a fitted, colourful print shirt, complete with a distinct collar. Up the retro vibes by pairing the top with a fringe waistcoat and a long line jacket with fluffy hemlines for a modern take on old-school Jimi Hendrix or Fleetwood Mac looks. Take note of flares that come with a matching top, often seen in rib-knit styles, that can provide an easy, cosy co-ord opportunity that works well entirely on its own. Image: Stella McCartney While the flared trouser has pretty much cemented its place as a fashion wardrobe staple, its current return for the coming season and its adoption by designers for their new collections has confirmed it is continuing to make a grand comeback in the fashion frontline. Whether modernised or retro-inspired, the silhouette is resonating with a younger generation of buyers who are reinventing trends from fashion histories past. Image: Kuyichi Similar items available for (pre)order can be found in the FashionUnited Marketplace. You can find them by clicking on this link.
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Nordstrom Rack appoints three senior executives to drive growth

Image: Nordstrom press room At its recent earnings call, Nordstrom, Inc., discussed the momentum and the progress made to date at Nordstrom Rack. The company said that Rack’s focus includes expanding offerings of the brands under its portfolio, sourcing from new vendors and creating a more efficient and optimised supply chain network. To achieve these goals, Nordstrom Rack has announced three new leadership appointments. The company said in a release that Nancy Mair has joined as senior vice president, Rack merchandising, Kelley Wotton-Gantner as vice president, divisional merchandise manager and Stacy Lippa as vice president, Rack supply chain. “Nancy, Kelley and Stacy each bring extensive off-price retail experience to important areas of our Rack business, and we’re thrilled to welcome them to the team,” said Geevy Thomas, president, Nordstrom Rack. Nordstrom Rack announces three new leadership appointments The company added that Mair will help develop and execute the Rack merchandise strategy across both Nordstrom Rack stores and NordstromRack.com. Mair previously worked at Burlington Stores for 26 years, where she began as an intern and ultimately served as SVP/GMM of multiple merchandising areas. Most recently, she started her own consulting company working with private equity, global retailers and wholesalers, specifically focused on formulating and improving off-price strategies. In addition to her consulting work, Mair is an adjunct professor at Fashion Institute of Technology in the Fashion Business Department. Wotton-Gantner joined Nordstrom in September 2020 as senior director, merchandising with a focus on the price conscious consumer. In March, she will shift into her new role leading a broader scope of buying for Nordstrom Rack. With more than 24 years of experience, Wotton-Gantner is a merchandising leader with experience in strategic planning, revenue and profit generation and vendor relations. Prior to Nordstrom, she held leadership roles at a variety of off-price retailers including Macy’s Backstage, Beall’s Inc., TJX Companies and Bob’s Stores. Lippa, the company further said, will work across the organisation to drive store growth by aligning stakeholders and resources to support Rack supply chain needs. Lippa joins Nordstrom with 19 years of experience, most recently leading the distribution and fulfilment networks at Five Below. Before that, she spent 17 years at Target in various leadership roles across imports, transportation, replenishment, distribution and food supply chains. She is a member of the Council on Competitiveness.
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RawAssembly x Mindful Fashion New Zealand: Session 4 - Traceability

There is increasing demand for certified, traceable products and materials. Consumers want higher standards and visibility from the products they buy, and manufacturers want to make sure they can verify sustainability practices in their supply chain. Learn how businesses in the fashion and textile industry can use standards and certifications to ensure traceability, cultivation and processing standards, and what is required to communicate these schemes with customers. This session, brought to you by Mindful Fashion New Zealand in Partnership with RawAssembly Australia focuses on traceability, best practice in the supply chain and importance of full life cycle impact data to assess sustainability and circularity of fibres and high quality products. This session hears from FibreTrace™ - Kara Hurry who talks through their journey, and how wool amongst other natural fibres can now be traced using their technology from farm to finished product and beyond. Kylee Davis from Suedwolle Group- who talks about Suedwolle Group's merino farm in Australia, their connection to New Zealand and how its possible for brands from all over the world to purchase R.W.S merino and trace their yarns from farm to finished garment. Jordi Beneyto-Ferre from Icebreaker NZ talks about their own journey with natural fibres, how they track their supply chain and their ongoing commitment to #movetonatural and #givingmorethanwetake. Jordi’s vision is for the apparel industry to stop being part of the problem and become an active part of the solution. Join us to watch session four of this webinar series for an in-depth and exciting conversation that not only highlights incredible supply chain achievements, advanced technologies, animal welfare and environmental protection but also allows others to be inspired and discover new ways of working and potential partners. Video: RawAssembly Photo: RawAssembly
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Fashion for Good announces 8 innovators for 2022 Global Innovation Programme

Image: Fashion for Good Amsterdam-based sustainable fashion initiative Fashion for Good has announced the eight innovators to join its 2022 Global Innovation Programme. The international group of companies were selected after pitching their raw materials, processing and end-of-use innovative solutions to Fashion for Good partners. They are now enrolled in a nine-month programme where they will receive bespoke support and guidance from industry partners to aid them with piloting, implementation, and investing activities. The eight innovators are: DyeRecycle, a UK company combining the need to recycle both dye and fabrics by developing innovative circular solutions for dyeing using textile waste. Ever Dye, a French company that has developed two chemical solutions that boost dye house production capacities and allow them to dye faster with less energy and without using any petrochemicals. IDELAM, a Franco-Swiss company developing processes using supercritical CO2 for complex, multi-material products and waste, such as jackets and footwear, to enable recycling or reuse of these materials. Kintra Fibers, a US company developing a new, plant-based polyester replacement that reduces manufacturing emissions, eliminates microfibre pollution, and enables textile circularity through chemical recycling and industrial compost. Modern Synthesis, a British biotech company whose proprietary microbial textile platform employs microbes to grow a completely new form of textile made of nanocellulose, a very strong and fine form of cellulose, which is the natural building block of materials like cotton, linen and wood. Premirr Plastics, a US company that has created a continuous flow-through (CFT) system that provides a simple, circular and eco-friendly method to chemically recycle PET, providing PET products containing recycled content that possess the same physical and chemical properties as virgin PET. Refiberd, a US company that is developing a novel textile recycling system that uses AI and a patent-pending chemical recycling process to convert used, discarded textiles into new, reusable thread. Rubi, a US company that makes textiles entirely from carbon emissions, bypassing current agriculture and manufacturing to create a product that is carbon-negative, water- and land- neutral, and naturally biodegradable. “We are excited to welcome these eight new innovators to the 2022 Fashion for Good Innovation Programme,” said Fashion for Good managing director Katrin Ley. She continued: “We are inspired by the significant impact and carbon reduction opportunities their technologies enable. With an emphasis on driving impact and implementation, we strive to provide them with the best support to expedite their exposure and growth into the market.”
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Feelunique enlists sourcing platform RangeMe to enhance product buying

Image: Feelunique Online beauty retailer Feelunique has established a partnership with the product sourcing platform, RangeMe, to support its buying teams and enhance its product selection process. According to RangeMe, the Sephora-owned retailer is the first major beauty retailer in Europe to join its platform since its UK launch six months ago. The company, which is currently on a path of expansion, aims to help retailers scale their product sourcing, giving them access to over 200,000 suppliers. Launched in 2014, RangeMe currently operates in the UK, Europe, North America and APAC regions and already works with more than 15,000 retail buyers. “Our mission has always been to empower retailers and suppliers to be productive and successful whatever their objective,” said RangeMe CEO, Nicky Jackson, in a release. “RangeMe offers retailers hyper-local choices as well as innovative global options. We exist to help them offer an extraordinary experience for their customers.” For Feelunique, the partnership will allow it to push its mission of being inclusive and relevant for its expansive customer base. On the deal, the e-tailer’s CEO, Sarah Miles, said: “Our engaged customers have high expectations of us from providing trustworthy reviews and expert insights, to the latest trends and finding new favourites and discovering the products that make them feel unique.”
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Why workers at an REI store voted to join a union

A window at REI SoHo. Image by Jennifer Mason Workers at the New York City flagship of Recreational Equipment, Inc. (REI) voted to join the Retail, Wholesale and Department Store Union (RWDSU), which will now be the first union at any store for the outdoor gear retailer. The vote, which took place in-person at the SoHo location on March 2 was an overwhelming win for the union with eighty-six percent voting in favor. A visit to the store not long after dashed hopes of capturing the post-vote glow and reaction from a few of the organizers, some of whom have been campaigning for almost a year and a half since the inception of the drive in October 2020. A friendly greeter wearing a pro-union button directed all queries to the RWDSU. While a union representative provided the official statement, direct communication with any REI SoHo employee would not be arranged even after a week’s time. Still, a video of a Zoom press conference held a week prior to the vote offered some insight as to why so many workers ended up on the side of yes. A pro-union button on an REI SoHo store employee’s vest. Image by Jennifer Mason Scheduling and Late Policies FashionUnited covered the release of an MIT Sloan Management Review study in January that pointed to unpredictable schedules as one of the main contributors to the mass exodus of retail employees from the workplace over the past few years. The case of REI SoHo reaffirms that finding. “Scheduling policies, late policies have been changed on us on a whim,” said Claire Chang, a full-time visual and retail sales specialist and member of the organizing committee. “It’s just being handed down from corporate with no say from us. Having even just a modicum of power in that, I think, is one of the biggest reasons why having a union is really important, because we’d actually get to negotiate with our employer on these policies. I greatly believe that this will lead us to have better relationships with our managers going forward as well,” she said. Tyler Mulholland, a clothing sales lead at the store for the last two years noted, “Of course we’re excited about better and more equal living wages, but something specific that I think is relevant to our store—we have a late policy that has a 3-minute grace period, or as I always tease, it’s the disgrace period. You know in New York City if you commute to work and you miss the bus or the train, you’ll certainly be more than three minutes late. And that’s been a policy that we’ve all spoken about. Just a minute example that’s a unique circumstance for us.” It is true in New York that even if you catch your mode of transportation on time, the MTA will manifest its own causations for lateness to occur. Workplace Safety and Basic Training The pandemic was of course a huge driver of concern about workplace safety but not the only one at this store. “We’ve had a number of people injured,” shared Steve Buckley, a sales specialist on the soft goods team and an REI employee of only six months. “I work on the stock team multiple nights a week and we’ve had numerous people injured on the stock team and it's, I think, out of a lack of training and support. That’s definitely something we’re looking for is how we can have a true seat at the table and for people like me, who are newer, to have opportunities for growth, training and development, and to learn new skills.” “Since coming back from the lockdown having been furloughed, we started seeing a lot of changes in the company,” Chang said. “This was pre-vaccines and we were seeing our co-workers getting sick and there was a lot of pushback when it came to employee safety. They used to say worker safety is number one but the actions and decisions that were made just didn’t really line up with what they were saying, and eventually they kind of stopped saying that.” The store’s mask policy is posted at the entrance. Image by Jennifer Mason Company Culture The interesting thing is that these organizers, who could have easily left for other retail jobs, put in the work for this union drive in order to stay with the company. As Mulholland described, “There are a lot of people who were initially meeting with us that have left for other career opportunities. Personally for me, the reason that I want a union for REI is because I would like to be here in the future and I think it’s a very concrete way to make it a more viable, long-term option.” Part of that sentiment is due to the unique environment that is specific to this company. “It is a slightly different type of retail,” Chang explained. “We’re a specialty retailer, we specialize in the outdoors. It’s a common draw for a lot of folks who work at REI because we believe in their slogan, ‘a life outdoors is a life well lived.’ We all have our common interests whether it be running, camping, backpacking, skiing and that’s what brings us all together. Our passion, our expertise is what ties us. So a lot of people tend to stay at REI to meet great people.” But as she’s been with the company for four years, she’s noticed a cultural shift from management. “Over the past few years, I feel like this company has been moving further and further away from its values and just focusing too much on expansion,” she said. She acknowledged that REI, with its consumer co-op business model, “relies a lot on the co-op as its branding and image. There’s a huge emphasis on memberships. As a company, it recognizes a strength in numbers. It’s ironic to be like, yeah, we want more people because we can do good things collectively together. But then when it comes to the employees wanting to have a voice and trying to also engage in collective bargaining, that’s a big no-no.” REI has stated that it appreciates the hard work of its employees and respects each member’s right to choose whether or not to unionize, but was not in favor of unionization. Still, as the negotiations are set to begin to address the criticisms, there is a positive approach that the company could meet in good faith. “I’m absolutely committed to getting us to a first contract and to help build a viable, long-term union presence at our store so that we can have that say long-term,” Buckley said. “I will say when I took this job, I was just looking for the next thing to hold me over, like a lot of people in retail. But, by meeting the people that I work with and getting to have some amazing customer interactions—One of my coworkers came in on their off day to get outfitted for their trip to Nepal by me because they trust me to help them find the gear they need. I love that. I want to continue to do that,” he stated. “I genuinely believe in what I do.”
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Strong Customer Authentication comes into force across UK retail

Image: Pexels New customer identification steps are being introduced in the UK on Monday in a bid to combat online fraud. New Strong Customer Authentication (SCA) requirements mean shoppers face more identity verification checks when making online purchases using their debit or credit cards. To comply, consumers will have to confirm two of three “factors”: They can input biometrics such as a fingerprint or facial ID; type in a passcode or password; or use two-step identification with a mobile phone. SCA rules have applied to an increasing proportion of online transactions since the start of the year as merchants and Payment Service Providers (PSPs) prepared themselves to meet the enforcement date of Monday, when all transactions must be SCA-compliant. Some transactions will not face the SCA requirements. These could be transactions deemed as “low risk”, or repeat purchases such as subscriptions, according to the British Retail Consortium (BRC). ‘Online has never been safer’ Tom Ironside, director of business and regulation at the BRC, said in a statement: “Retailers have been working hard to prepare for the Strong Customer Authentication requirements, ensuring online purchases are both as safe and easy as possible. “The BRC and our members have worked with suppliers to ensure multiple fraud checks are performed behind the scenes and any additional friction is kept to a minimum. Customers should be reassured that buying online has never been safer.” But the move is also expected to increase the number of declined transactions as online retailers implement the new SCA requirements. Barclaycard Payments has warned that websites that aren’t SCA compliant risk losing sales and damaging customer loyalty, The Industry.Fashion reports. Data from Barclaycard Payments reportedly revealed that 43,000 transactions a day - worth 3.64 million pounds - were declined at the point of sale in February as online businesses were not able to route transactions through an SCA compliant channel.
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Top 5 UK cities for women to start a business in

Image: Sincerely Media via Unsplash, York A recent study by payment provider Dojo has provided a run down of the best cities for women-led business start-ups in the UK, presenting potential opportunities as restrictions begin to end and businesses open back up. Detailed in the report, Dojo referenced research by the British Business Bank which found that for every one pound of venture capital investment in the UK, female founders get less than one pence while male founders get 89 pence. It also noted that only 32 percent of UK businesses are female owned, 17 percent of which were founded by women. Dojo’s study hopes to help women in breaking through industry barriers, with results based upon gender pay gaps in each city, the number of female employees and the amount of self-employed females. Coming as an update to its 2021 list, the payment firm also added new data points to its index, considering elements such as average weekly pay, five-year start-up survival rate, cost of living and rateable floorspace value. Top five cities according to Dojo Chelmsford in Essex took the top spot, hitting top points for each factor considered for the index. Dojo found that 40 percent of businesses set up in the region lasted for a minimum of five years, while 36 percent of females were self-employed, one of the highest percentages in the list. In total, the city scored 65 out of 100, according to the index. Worcester and Carlisle closely followed Chelmsford in second and third position, each scoring around 61. Like Chelmsford, Worcester was found to have a 40 percent self employed, female workforce, while Carlisle boasted a five year survival rate of 38 percent. Additionally, the border city is also home to the Cumbria Business Growth Group, which is dedicated to creating a sustainable working environment for female entrepreneurs. Ranked in fourth place, York further looks to boost women-owned businesses through a MPWR group that supports them through events and information sharing. The city also had the highest business survival rate in the index at 46 percent, with Dojo stating the figure can provide confidence in business plans. Derby came in the number five spot, offering one of the cheapest office floor space values at 70 pounds per metre squared and an average weekly pay of 790 pounds, the highest in the index. Its prime location near the Peak District means it appeals to tourism opportunities, with the area contributing around 2.5 million pounds annually to the economy, as reported by the region’s STEAM figures. Other cities that made Dojo’s top 10 included Wakefield, Lancaster and Chester, all scoring above 54, while Sheffield, Nottingham and Leeds appeared further down the list with scores sitting just above 50. While the index presented potential business opportunities for female entrepreneurs, it also showed that there was work to be done in driving the female workforce, with cities even in the list’s top spots nowhere near hitting full marks.
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Gap returns to the British high street with Next

Image: Gap In Pictures Gap has opened its first branded shop-in-shop within Next’s Oxford Street store in London, in a return to the British high street, following the closure of all of its UK stores in 2021 after a strategic review of its business. The first Gap shop-in-shop is located within Next’s largest West End store on London’s Oxford Street and will be the biggest branded shop within the store, covering 4,000 square feet of retail space. The concept store has been designed to embody Gap’s reinvented approach to retail in the UK, explained the retailer, and features an open, modern and minimal design, and includes its own entrance onto Oxford Street. Image: Gap Gap will stock a “curated collections of elevated everyday essentials” for women, men and kids, including denim, fleeces, khakis, shirting and its iconic logo products. The shop-in-shop will also offer embroidery, badging and monogramming customisation stations for Gap customers to personalise their purchases. The Gap shop-in-shop will sit alongside other brands stocked in the Next store including womenswear brand Lipsy and stationery brand Paperchase. Gap opens first shop-in-shop within Next, following joint venture partnership The Oxford Street opening is described as a “major milestone” to re-establish Gap’s brick-and-mortar presence and forms part of its joint venture announced in September 2021, with Next owning a 51 percent stake in the venture, while Gap owns 49 percent. Next will operate Gap’s business in the UK and Ireland as a franchise partner, managing its e-commerce business and establishing Gap-branded shop-in-shops within Next. The move is part of the American brand's plans to amplify its omnichannel business to better serve its customers within the UK and Ireland. Image: Gap Gap added that work has already started to migrate its e-commerce business to the Next Total Platform, alongside the integration of other operational capabilities such as a comprehensive click-and-collect service, next-day delivery, and a variety of customer service options later this year. The retailer has not confirmed how many shop-in-shops will open or the locations. Jon Jeffrey, managing director of the joint venture, said in a statement: "I am so excited at the coming together of these two iconic businesses to relaunch the Gap brand in the UK and Ireland, and in particular I'm thrilled at the opportunity to bring Gap's Modern, American Optimism to our customers at our new London store at 120 Oxford Street.” Adrienne Gernand, managing director of international, global licensing and wholesale at Gap Inc., added: “We look forward to continue growing the Gap business in the UK through our joint venture with Next Plc. Partnering with market leading, omni-channel retailers like Next Plc allows us to amplify and deliver our relevant, purpose-driven brand to meet our customers in the UK and Ireland – and with greater speed, agility, and customer services than ever before.” Image: Gap Image: Gap Image: Gap
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Shanghai tailors keep qipao dress tradition alive

Zhou Zhuguang surveys his Shanghai workshop and rows of workers meticulously stitching high-collared Chinese dresses known as qipao, some of which sell for nearly 5,000 dollars. "It's a highly skilled craft," said Zhou, co-founder of Hanart, one of China's most well-known qipao makers. "Some of our tailors spend a lifetime learning to make qipao." The price tag also reflects enduring demand for the qipao, known as a cheongsam in Hong Kong and overseas Chinese communities. Drawing on traditional design elements, the dress was popularised in 1920s Shanghai, its form-fitting cut capturing the glamour of that free-wheeling pre-communist era and the desire of Chinese women to liberate themselves from traditionally subservient roles. The qipao disappeared after the Communist Party -- which considered it decadent and bourgeois -- took power in 1949. The dress's comeback is due in part to producers like Zhou. A mass-produced qipao, sometimes seen at weddings or other formal occasions, can be bought today for as little as 100 yuan (16 dollars). But Zhou, 59, has found a market for higher-end designs among well-heeled Chinese fashionistas. Zhou previously dealt in lower-priced qipao before founding Hanart in 1998 in partnership with Chu Hongsheng, a legendary qipao designer who fitted Chinese film actresses and the wives and daughters of Shanghai mafia bosses. Chu died in 2017 at the age of 99. Cultural value "(Low price) isn't the true essence of the qipao," said Zhou, who feels that such an iconic Chinese fashion staple requires more luxurious materials, bolder designs and hand-crafted precision, which inevitably push prices up. Zhou displayed these at a Shanghai show late last year which featured "modern, altered qipao" designs combining the classic Mandarin collar and body-hugging fit with less traditional elements such as lace, fringes, velvet, sequins and rich embroidery. "We want more young people to wear qipao," Zhou said of his design re-boot. To Yang Zhenzhen, who owns a Shanghai qipao shop and is an online influencer of the dress style, cracking the youth market is essential to keeping the tradition alive. Her shop targets buyers aged 25-45 with qipao starting at around 600 dollars. "Young people bring new life and energy" to the qipao, said Yang, 28, who has been smitten with the dress since childhood and began collecting them five years ago. "If young people don't wear them, then by the time they grow old there won't be anyone wearing them," she said. Yang admitted that youth acceptance suffers from a stereotype that qipao are for elderly women, or the belief that pop culture uses the dress to objectify Chinese women. "These are deep misconceptions... so I want to popularise it as best I can and let people know the real meaning of qipao," she said. That includes the dress's role in breaking down gender norms for women during the 1920s. The sense of freedom associated with that will never go out of style, she adds. For Zhou, selling qipao is about perpetuating an element of China's intangible cultural heritage. "We are small, but we are carrying on a piece of culture," he said. "That's where our biggest value is."(AFP)
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What to pay attention to as a retailer when recruiting new staff

Pexels BACKGROUNDWhat is the attraction to working in a retail store? Or better yet: what should retailers pay attention to in order to make it even more attractive? Q&A Insights researched it and shared the results with FashionUnited. Some striking insights emerged which could come in handy for retailers while searching for new staff. Q&A Insights conducted a survey among more than four hundred respondents, director John Terra tells FashionUnited. Not only were various answer options chosen for the participants to choose from, they were also able to provide explanations for their answers, creating a good picture of the image of retail. The current shortage on the labor market was the reason to conduct research into the attractiveness of working in the store. The research focuses specifically on people in their twenties and thirties because these are the generations that will be very important in the future, according to Terra. Work atmosphere is the number one reason while choosing an employer The respondents were asked about their reasons for choosing an employer. The working atmosphere is definitely number one for the respondents. The working atmosphere is therefore even more important than working for financial compensation, which has come second. Of course, the financial reward must be of a good level, but working in a place with a fantastic salary but a lousy working atmosphere, that too will stop at some point. The working atmosphere can be promoted through transparency, a high degree of communication and collaboration between colleagues, as was shown by desk research by Q&A Insights. Terra explains that the atmosphere was not one of the options from which the respondents could choose at first: "We regularly ask whether important points have not been discussed. The work atmosphere clearly emerged from this and after the adjustment, it turned out to be the most important motivation for choosing an employer." What are the possibilities for flexibility? Flexibility came in third place. For example, people are interested in the options available to take leave, to choose how many hours they work, the option to easily switch shifts and the option to vary in shifts. But flexibility in a store, what does that look like? Q&A Insights mentions flexibility in operations in the white paper, for example. Does the unpacking of freight and the labeling of items have to be done at a fixed time, or can this also be done at a different part of the day? Technology can also help provide flexibility, such as self-check-outs. When customers can pay for items themselves, not many employees are always needed, which also creates flexibility in the occupation of the store. Retail is not known as a place for personal development, while three quarters of job seekers think this is important Although personal development ranks fifth out of the six options as to why people choose an employer, this is something that should not be overlooked, according to the conversation with Terra. More than three quarters of the respondents considered it important that there are opportunities for personal development at the employer. However, the store is not yet immediately seen as a place where people can develop. Only 48 percent indicate that they see the store as a kind of employer where this is possible. There is therefore still room for improvement in retail. Including development opportunities in the vacancies seems to be a good start. If you facilitate personal development, what then? Everyone has different preferences, according to the answers of the respondents. More than half prefer to learn in practice and on the job. And 38 percent indicate that they would like to do a course of one or two days on location. Yet another 38 percent indicate that they would like to choose a digital course from an offer that the employer offers. A fifth indicates that they want to learn at a time of their choosing, and then through texts and videos. A fifth also indicates that they want to follow a defined career project. In addition, one person likes to learn independently, the other 1-on-1 and others in groups. The majority (33 percent) also wants to take time each month for personal development, followed by 30 percent who would like to take that time once a quarter. It should be clear: preferences vary enormously. Q&A Insights therefore underlines that it is good as an employer to offer various options for personal development so that employees can choose what suits them. Terra adds that it is also good to be open about the growth opportunities within the company. "Just look at the new CEO of Action. She started 24 years ago as a shelf stocker and is now CEO." Terra adds that it is also good to be open about the growth opportunities within the company. "Just look at the new CEO of Action. She started 24 years ago as a stocker and is now CEO." 'Working in retail has an image problem' The research also shows that retail has an image problem. Although 78 percent of the respondents find personal development important with an employer, only 49 percent expect a store to be an employer that offers this. Such a large gap can also be seen in financial rewards and meaningful work (82 and 52 percent, 79 and 55 percent). This image problem can be partly addressed by deploying employees as ambassadors, according to Q&A Insights. The research shows that people who have experience working in a store have a more positive image of the sector. People who have no experience in retail expect more than 30 percent less from the store as an employer when it comes to personal development and flexibility. "To increase the attractiveness of the sector as an employer, it is important to deploy existing employees as ambassadors. They have practical experience and can convince friends and acquaintances of the added value of the store as a working environment. Working in retail is great fun. You will only see it when you get it." The image problem of the entire sector will not be easy to tackle, says Terra. But, he adds, as an independent retailer there is a lot to be achieved. In this way, the recruitment of people can already be improved. State in the vacancy how the working atmosphere is promoted, how flexibility can be offered and what opportunities there are for personal development. In a world where people compete for staff, these tips are more than welcome. Now it is up to the retailers themselves to get started. This article was originally published on FashionUnited.NL, translated and edited to English by Kelly Press.
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Tiffany taps Blackpink’s Rosé for latest campaign

Image: Tiffany & Co., Blackpink's Rosé As part of its brand rejuvenation, luxury jeweller Tiffany & Co. has revealed its latest campaign starring K-pop artist Rosé. The collaboration with the Blackpink singer comes as the jewellery house continues to revamp its image in order to reach a younger audience. Recent campaigns by the brand have included the likes of Beyoncé and Jay-Z and further collaborations, such as its Supreme collection, have each aimed to appeal to a more youthful audience. The casting of the Korean-New Zealand performer is part of Tiffany’s latest moves in this area and further adds to its continuously expanding HardWear collection, which Rosé previously sported in a 2021 campaign by the house. Shot by Mario Sorrenti, the house’s global ambassador is seen wearing its latest diamond-intensive designs from the signature collection, with looks based on archival pieces including a 1971 bracelet. Rosé also dons some styles set to debut in July, including a black titanium link necklace and bracelet set, as well as a selection of full pavé diamond designs scheduled for release in November.
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