Saturday, October 2, 2021

Video: Maxivive SS22 collection

In this video, fashion brand Maxivive has presented its SS22 collection at Milano Fashion Week (MFW). Watch the video below. Video: Maxivive via YouTube Photo credit: Maxivive By Appointment, Facebook
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Michael Kors reveals Watch Hunger Stop 2021 campaign, with brand employees and friends

Image: Michael Kors, Chelsea Kyle In a campaign entitled Food is Love - There’s Always a Seat at the Table, Michael Kors unveiled Watch Hunger Stop 2021 featuring a selection of brand employees and friends as part of the brand’s ongoing initiative. In partnership with the United Nations World Food Programme, the luxury brand released its latest campaign as part of its effort to provide school meals to children in food-insecure regions of the world. Shot by photographer Chelsea Kyle, the campaign imagery displays a number of the brand’s staff and ambassadors wearing Watch Hunger Stop 2021 designs. A 100 percent organic cotton Love t-shirt, a black hat and a black face mask are among the collection available, featuring a red Love heart patch and the campaign logo. Proceeds from the product sales go towards the Watch Hunger Stop initiative, which has already delivered 24 million school meals since its launch, according to the campaign press release. Image: Michael Kors, Chelsea Kyle “Since we began nine years ago, Watch Hunger Stop has connected us to communities all over the world,” said Kors. “For this year’s campaign, I wanted to show that the effort to end world hunger starts at home. It’s never been clearer that all of us, everywhere, are connected. I think that’s cause for hope and a reason to act. Hunger is a problem we can solve. There really is always room at our table.” The campaign has also been implemented into the brand’s social media platforms, with an Instagram filter called Share Your Heart that users can add to a post to join in the community. Each Share Your Heart filter share triggers a donation of 50 meals to the initiative, with users gaining access to the addition through the Michael Kors Instagram page. Image: Michael Kors, Chelsea Kyle Image: Michael Kors, Chelsea Kyle
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Video: Laura Biagiotti at MFW

In this video, fashion designer Laura Biagiotti has presented her SS22 collection at Milano Fashion Week (MFW). Watch the video below. Video: FF Channel via YouTube Photo credit: Laura Biagiotti, Facebook
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Video: Onitsuka Tiger SS22 collection

In this video, fashion brand Onitsuka Tiger has presented its SS22 collection at Milano Fashion Week (MFW). Watch the video below. Video: Onitsuka Tiger via YouTube Photo credit: Jessica 제시카, Facebook
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Video: Luisa Spagnoli SS22 collection

In this video, fashion designer Luisa Spagnoli has presented her SS22 collection at Milano Fashion Week (MFW). Watch the video below. Video: FF Channel via YouTube Photo credit: Luisa Spagnoli, Facebook
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Friday, October 1, 2021

Vanessa Kingori appointed chief business officer for style and Vogue European business adviser at Condé Nast

Image: Vanessa Kingori via LinkedIn Condé Nast has promoted Vanessa Kingori to chief business officer for style and Vogue European business adviser after helping to achieve unprecedented revenue growth at the fashion title. Kingori was previously the publishing director of Vogue and prior to that at GQ, another Condé Nast publication. Kingori, who is from Kenyan and British descent, has had a remarkable career, and is the first female lead at British Vogue and first Black publisher in the UK arm of Condé Nast. In addition to Vogue, Kingori will also be responsible for Glamour magazine whilst leading the company’s largest and most lucrative accounts for all Conde Nast British brands. Kingori was awarded an MBE on the Queen’s 90th-Birthday Honours List in 2016.
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Browzwear to open fash-tech training centers in pandemic-hurt Bangladesh & China  

Browzwear Browzwear, a pioneer of 3D digital solutions for the fashion industry, and featuring LIMITED, the product innovation arm of global sourcing services provider Otto International, have announced the opening of 3D product development sharing and training centers in Dongguan, China and Dhaka, Bangladesh. The facilities, called Digi-hubs, will provide invaluable upskilling and peer-to-peer sharing to the garment industry in both manufacturing-heavy regions which have been hit hard by the pandemic. The Digi-hubs will enable employees of manufacturers and suppliers as well as designers, pattern-makers, technical designers and others to become proficient in the latest 3D technology and its application to product design and development.  In the past few years Browzwear has established a growing presence in fashion schools, and in November Browzwear’s Chief Commercial Officer Lena Lim explained to FashionUnited the importance of its connection to education: “The next generation of bright minds are what will enable digital transformation to bring about a more agile and sustainable fashion industry. We cannot transform without new skill sets and a new mindset, which is why it is crucial that we partner with schools and be a driving force for the next era of fashion and design.” Clearly the company is expanding its vision beyond emerging graduates to emerging markets. The objective of the hubs in China and Bangladesh is to accelerate large-scale digital transformation in the industry, which will, in turn, create efficiencies, reduce waste and increase sustainability.  Browzwear New “Digi-hubs” offer digital upskilling to garment professionals in regions hard hit by pandemic Participants of the program will gain hands-on experience working with Browzwear’s VStitcher, a leading 3D platform used throughout the industry. In addition to building 3D prototyping skills, the hubs will also feature fabric digitization that includes Browzwear’s Fabric Analyzer and Vizoo’s scanning system, which translate the physical properties and textures of textiles, respectively, enabling true-to-life 3D simulation and rendering.  “The COVID-19 pandemic brought to light many of the inequities in the global apparel supply chain while showcasing the importance of digital transformation for the entire industry,” Sharon Lim, Co-Founder & CEO of Browzwear, tells FashionUnited. “We are incredibly proud to be part of the solution that empowers both businesses and professionals, particularly in regions where the inequities have had an outsized impact.” Driving processes from rapid fitting and grading to tech packs and everything needed to create the physical garment is Browzwear’s expertise and why they count among their more than 650 clients globally Columbia Sportswear, PVH Group and VF Corporation. Browzwear’s partner in the venture, featuring LIMITED, provides fully customized 3D digital product development services, and offers solutions in the sourcing process, as well as virtual design, quality inspection and shipping. General Manager, Katharina Bobrowski, shares Lim’s values and views on the future of fashion, “As technology continues to disrupt the apparel industry, it’s imperative we build a system with equal opportunity for all to succeed.” ”Ultimately, Browzwear’s goal is to bring together all of the tools and technologies that apparel businesses need to make every process from concept to commerce more efficient,” says Lim. She believes the partnership with Otto International is just another step in the company’s goal of being a leader of positive change in the industry, and that shared learning is the way of the future. “While Dhaka and Dongguan are the first hubs to open, they certainly won’t be the last. We are exploring additional manufacturing-dominant areas in Vietnam and Indonesia, where increased digitization can have a transformative impact on business, the environment and people’s lives.” Karina Ochoa is a Browzwear user and 3D apparel designer who started her career in Columbia where she says most of the process is still done in the traditional 2D way. “There were always mistakes from  miscommunication, even though we were speaking the same language as the pattern makers and factories, and even the simplest garment required multiple samples. And each one could take up to a month to receive.” After moving to the US to study at NYC’s Fashion Institute of Technology, she was introduced to Browzwear and found it changed everything. “For businesses that will now have access to 3D-trained workers, they can make incredible changes in their processes. Faster, with fewer errors and far less waste, it will enable them to remain competitive while lessening their impact on the environment and improving the lives of their communities.” Fashion editor Jackie Mallon is also an educator and author of Silk for the Feed Dogs, a novel set in the international fashion industry
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Video: Emporio Armani at MFW

In this video, Italian ready-to-wear fashion brand Emporio Armani has presented its SS22 collection at Milano Fashion Week (MFW). Watch the video below. Video: Armani via YouTube Photo credit: Emporio Armani, Facebook
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Video: Daniela Gregis SS22 collection

In this video, fashion designer Daniela Gregis has presented her SS22 collection at Milano Fashion Week (MFW). Watch the video below. Video: FF Channel via YouTube Photo credit: Milan Fashion Week, Facebook
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Video: Drome at MFW

In this video, fashion brand Drome has presented its SS22 collection at Milano Fashion Week (MFW). Watch the video below. Video: Fashion Channel via YouTube Photo credit: Anita Clori Parrucchieri, Facebook
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Thursday, September 30, 2021

Ralph Lauren joins Global Fashion Agenda’s Strategic Partner Group

Image: Ralph Lauren, US Open Collection Nonprofit organisation Global Fashion Agenda has announced the Ralph Lauren Corporation will be joining its group of Strategic Partners, with the aim of leading the fashion industry into a more sustainable future. The corporation will be playing an active role in the development of the Global Fashion Agenda’s thought leadership platform and Fashion CEO Agenda, alongside a number of other fashion leaders from all aspects of the industry. The nonprofit, additionally responsible for the Copenhagen Fashion Summit, recognised Ralph Lauren’s current sustainable efforts, suggesting it handpicked the company to be involved in its inner circle. The agenda aims to encourage brands to implement circular design strategies into their production, including the insertion of used garments, resold pieces and recycled post-consumer textiles toward their supply chain. “At Ralph Lauren, we understand that creating a more sustainable and equitable world requires collective action and deep collaboration,” said Patrice Louvet, president and CEO of Ralph Lauren Corporation, in a statement. “As we focus on identifying breakthrough solutions that have the potential to be scaled across our industry, we look forward to working together with the Global Fashion Agenda and its partners to drive meaningful change.” Effective from October 2021, the partnership supports the fashion corporation’s Design the Change initiative, part of its 2021 Global Citizenship and Sustainability Report. The strategy centres around three areas of commitment: timeless style creation, protecting the environment and championing better lives. It is also a signatory to a number of additional sustainability initiatives, including the UN Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Action and the G7 Fashion Pact. Frederica Marchionni, CEO of Global Fashion Agenda, said: “Ralph Lauren Corporation is devoted to improving its sustainability performance and advancing progress in the industry as a whole. I am thrilled to welcome it to our Strategic Partner group, which represents the diverse segments of the fashion industry.” She continued: “Throughout this partnership, I am confident that we can create even more impact in our pursuit of a prosperous industry for both planet and people.” The premium fashion corporation joins the likes of Nike, Asos, H&M Group, Kering and PVH Corp in a growing list of Strategic Partners associated with the organisation. Ralph Lauren’s Louvet will also be presenting a keynote speech at the upcoming digital edition of the Copenhagen Fashion Summit, scheduled on October 7 to 8.
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35% rise in jobs compared to pre-covid on FashionUnited

Image credit: Juno Fashion companies are looking for more employees now, than ever before. The number of jobs posted on FashionUnited’s platforms have gone up by 35% compared to pre-covid. The number of vacancies has well surpassed 20.000, compared to the 15.000 jobs that were online continuously in 2019. With the economy picking up consumers are spending more on fashion, therefore fashion retailers are looking for more people to join their teams in order to fulfill consumers demand. After a turbulent year and a half, job seekers can search among 20.000 international fashion jobs in areas of retail, sales marketing, design, supply chain, internships and many others through FashionUnited. The global pandemic presented many new challenges, all industries had to face their biggest fear: change. While new recruitment trends have been steadily accelerating across all industries, fashion has been facing additional difficulties, like increased competitiveness and the need to expand beyond existing talent pools as candidates moved to other industries during lockdowns. With nearly 200,000 jobs per year millions of applications are generated for the various fashion companies. Thanks to industry promotion of vacancies and innovative recruitment strategies, fashion companies can showcase their opportunities among fitting potential candidates. The growing volume of jobs on the independent B2B platform is making the industry more efficient and transparent, enabling companies and people to find their best match. Simple and complete platform services, together with the career center match brands with the best people in fashion. Active in 30 countries and 10 languages, companies can expand their recruiting activities globally, and extensively brand themselves among qualified professionals. For more information on how to use the FashionUnited multi channel recruitment strategy contact jobs@fashionunited.com
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Sephora completes acquisition of British cosmetics e-tailer Feelunique

Image: Feelunique, Facebook LVMH-owned French beauty giant Sephora has completed its acquisition of British cosmetics e-tailer Feelunique from private equity firm Palamon Capital Partners. “We are delighted to welcome Feelunique teams within the Sephora family,” said Sephora president and CEO Martin Brok in a statement. He continued: “Feelunique is known for their unparalleled customer experience, deep e-commerce expertise and knowledge of the UK consumer. We look forward to learning from each other and write a new chapter together.” The deal reportedly values the UK company at 132 million pounds, though LVMH wouldn’t confirm the price of the acquisition. Sephora eyes UK beauty market The move allows Sephora, which has over 2,600 stores across 35 countries, to expand into the highly competitive beauty market in the UK, which is dominated by heavyweights like Boots, Next, The Hut Group (THG), Harrods, Asos, Boohoo and Amazon. The news comes just days after UK sportswear giant JD Sports announced it would also be stepping into the beauty scene following its acquisition of haircare brand Hairburst for an undisclosed sum. Founded in 2005, Feelunique sells over 35,000 products from more than 800 brands, shipping over 18,000 products each day to 120 countries, with dedicated websites in the UK, France, Germany, Norway, China, EU and US. In 2020, it said it achieved “record levels of sales and new customer acquisition”. The company’s CEO Sarah Miles said: “Sephora is an iconic retailer in the Prestige Beauty space in Europe. We are looking forward to working together and leverage our respective strengths to drive the Prestige Beauty segment in the UK.”
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Supreme collaborates with True Religion

Image: BCG PR Supreme has collaborated with True Religion on a collection for fall 2021. The collection consists of a denim trucker jacket, hooded sweatshirt, denim cargo pant, beanie, and 6-panel all exclusively available at Supreme stores and supremenewyork.com beginning September 30. In a statement, True Religion described Supreme as “an iconic streetwear label that has gone on to amass a cult-like following around the world with skaters, artists, and collectors who are eager to get their hands on the brand’s latest drop.” Supreme’s collaborations have included major names in fashion ranging from Nike to Comme des Garçons. In a statement, Michael Buckley, CEO of True Religion said, “A partnership with Supreme is the ultimate testament to any brand’s cultural relevance. I speak for everyone at True Religion when I say that we are thrilled and honored to have been selected as one of Supreme’s partners.” In 2020, True Religion exited Chapter 11 bankruptcy. Since then, the company has been working on a rebounding plan led by CEO Michael Buckley. Buckley and his team’s success derive from focusing on understanding and addressing True Religion’s new diverse customers, men and women who span a broad age range from 15 – 50 with an average household income of 65,000 dollars. There are over 150 million individuals in the United States alone who fit into this demographic profile.
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Outnet adding menswear

Image: theoutnet.com Yoox-Net-a-Porter Group-owned The Outnet is adding menswear to its offerings. The company, which was launched in 2009 as a site for discount designer fashion for women, is working on expanding its reach to a broader audience. The Outnet has recently launched local language sites in the Middle East, Japan, and Germany. The new men’s category is expanded to launch later this year with Europe, Middle East, and Asia-Pacific. Menswear will launch for the U.S. in 2022. Luxury menswear is considered a very attractive category for fashion business growth and has been for the past several years. In 2018, Reuters predicted that luxury menswear growth would soon outpace luxury womenswear as man have grown more interested in wardrobing their lifestyles.
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Wednesday, September 29, 2021

Germany’s About You sees stock soar on improved annual outlook

ANALYSIS German online fashion retailer About You YOUG.DE raised its full-year sales outlook on Tuesday citing strong second-quarter revenue growth. On the back of the news, the retailer’s shares outperformed the national benchmark index – DAX – as well as strong players including Puma and Adidas. It’s worth recalling that the retailer went public in June this year and was added to the German small-cap .SDAXI index this month. About You has reported second-quarter sales growth of up to 55 percent, and now expects to reach a full-year sales growth range of 48 percent to 52 percent. About You competes with Zalando ZALG.DE in the consumer segment while its business-to-business platform is seen as competition for Shopify SHOP.TO, SAP SAPG.DE and Salesforce CRM.N. About You outshines German DAX stocks including Adidas and Puma As highlighted by a German trader, the raised yearly sales target for About You attracted investors to the shares of the online fashion retailer, lifting the stock by more than 2.5 percent. The fact that key data for the second quarter was also better than expected, contributed to the e-tailer’s shares strong performance on the trading floor on Tuesday. Still in Germany, sporting goods manufacturers and athletic gear stocks were among the losers, with Adidas and Puma recording a minus of 1.7 and 1.5 percent, respectively. They were negatively affected by the raising concerns on increasing inflation around the globe. Expansion to Spain and Finland accelerates The retailer’s CEO, Tarek Mueller, told Reuters that the group is planning to ramp up its marketing activities in several European countries - from Spain to Finland - before the Christmas season. “Since our listing in June 2021, we have been laser-focused on executing on our strategic priorities to strengthen our core business, invest in our European footprint expansion, and scale our B2B business,” said Mueller in a corporate release. “Right now it is a good time to expand,” he said, “People want to go shopping online.” He said that thanks to technology and a high level of automation, the group could ramp up in many markets at the same time. According to the company’s CEO, “The successful ‘big bang’ launch campaign in Italy underscores the strength of our go-to-market playbook, which we continue to execute on during our third quarter. Due to the expected strong trading in the first half of the year and a start into autumn/winter season as planned, we are optimistic and raise our full-year net revenue guidance.” Influencer engagement and limited promotions spurred About You’s Q2 sales Lesser COVID-19 restrictions eased the return of fashion shoppers to the store across Germany, Austria, and Switzerland. About You’s stores in that region saw increased net revenue growth compared with the previous quarter. Growth was further underpinned by accelerated marketing spending on the back of attractive payback periods after customer acquisition, explained the retailer. Collaborations with influencers such as Kendall Jenner (“Kendall for ABOUT YOU”), further drove brand appeal and revenue performance, as highlighted by the company. On the back of its international expansion, performance in other European markets with the fashion brand has a presence continued to generate healthy net revenue growth in the second quarter. Per the company’s financial update on Tuesday, all its Commerce segments, ABOUT YOU DACH and RoE, had a good start into the autumn/winter season in the third quarter of the financial year, in line with expectations. Image: About You official website Image: Official web, About You, Germany
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About You updates full year revenue outlook after strong Q2 results

Image: About You, Facebook Online European fashion platform About You Holding SE upgraded its full-year guidance after the group’s net revenue grew by 51.1 to 55 percent to 390 to 400 million euros in the second quarter. According to the preliminary figures, for the first half-year, net revenue rose by 58.3 to 60.2 percent to 812.1 to 822.1 million euros. Commenting on the company’s financial results, Tarek Müller, co-founder and co-CEO of About You said: “Since our listing in June 2021, we have been laser-focused on executing on our strategic priorities to strengthen our core business, invest in our European footprint expansion, and scale our B2B business. Due to the expected strong trading in the first half of the year and a start into autumn/winter season as planned, we are optimistic and raise our full-year net revenue guidance.” About You posts strong Q2 results The company said in a statement that the performance was driven by enhanced customer experience, invested in its international expansion in Southern Europe and the Nordics and scaling of its profitable B2B segment Tech, Media and Enabling (TME). The company added that the About You DACH segment in Germany, Austria, and Switzerland saw increased net revenue growth versus the previous quarter. Additionally, exclusive collections, for instance with fashion icon Kendall Jenner, further drove brand appeal and revenue performance. On the back of its international expansion, the About You Rest of Europe (RoE) segment continued to generate healthy net revenue growth in the second quarter. Adjusted EBITDA margin increased to negative 2.8 to negative 4 percent from negative 5 percent one year ago. In the first half of the financial year, the company improved its adjusted EBITDA margin to negative 2.9 to negative 3.4 percent from negative 4.6 percent in H1 2020/2021. In absolute terms, second quarter adjusted EBITDA amounted to negative 11 to negative 16 million euros compared to negative 12.9 million euros one year ago. In the first half of the financial year, adjusted EBITDA reached negative 23.3 to negative 28.3 million euros from negative 23.6 million euros in H1 2020/2021. Following the soft launch in Norway in June 2021, the company initiated a teaser phase in Italy in mid-September and in Greece yesterday. About You plans to further ramp up its marketing spending with a particular focus on Southern Europe in the third quarter of 2021/2022. About You raises outlook on strong Q2 and H1 On the back of its financial performance in the first half-year, progress on strategic priorities and continued strong cohort behaviour, the company said it is raising its net revenue guidance for the financial year 2021/2022. About You is now optimistic to reach 1,725 to 1,775 million euros group net revenue range, an increase of 48 to 52 percent. The adjusted EBITDA is assumed to remain at negative 70 million euros as the increased revenue is planned to be reinvested in the business. Previously, the company believed it is realistic to reach the upper half of the guided net revenue range of 1,630 to 1,750 million euros, growth of 40 to 50 percent and an adjusted EBITDA of negative 70 million euros in the full year. The company further said that the raised outlook aligns About You’s updated group net revenue guidance range with the mean of the analysts’ consensus for the full year of 2021/2022. Surveyed as of 15 September 2021, the analysts expected full-year group net revenue growth was 50.1 percent, corresponding to the top end of the previously guided range. The mean of adjusted EBITDA margin was negative 3.9 percent for the full year, amounting to negative 68.5 million euros adjusted EBITDA.
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PFW SS22: Wataru Tominaga exhibits colourful collection at Paris Fashion Week

Image: Wataru Tominaga Japanese designer Wataru Tominaga presented a quirky, experimental collection through a digital presentation as part of this season’s Paris Fashion Week. Praised for his gender-neutral take on clothing presented at the previous New York Fashion Week, the designer continued his exploration of fluid design in the new collection. The unisex range features hand drawn elements and visually manipulated prints in a selection of items that stand out among the typical high-fashion and luxury of Parisian design. Image: Wataru Tominaga Prints were inspired by children’s mascots, vintage photos and plaid patterns, all of which were drawn and photographed by the designer himself. Ultimately, his goal was to display the contradiction between dissonance and harmony, with pieces related to both childlike wonder and adult reality. Silhouettes from the collection further emphasised the genderless nature the designer was looking to capture. Oversized t-shirts, baggy trousers and loose-fit shirts highlighted the theme, with matching pieces simultaneously worn by both the male and female model. Image: Wataru Tominaga Tominaga, who currently resides in Tokyo, made his Paris Fashion Week debut with his AW21 collection following on from his digital show for SS21 New York Fashion Week. As part of his prestigious roundup of recognitions, such as his inclusion in Forbes 30 Under 30 Asia, he has also previously collaborated with Chanel and Petit Bateau as part of the Hyéres Fashion Competition. Image: Wataru Tominaga Image: Wataru Tominaga Image: Wataru Tominaga
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In Pictures: L’Officiel presents virtual museum metaverse in celebration of centennial anniversary

Image: L'Officiel, House of Dreams In Pictures Media house L’Officiel has revealed that it will be launching the virtual museum experience, House of Dreams, exhibiting archival editions and future possibilities to celebrate its 100th anniversary. On display in the multimedia environment will be the artworks from the magazine’s archive, exhibited throughout 18 virtual galleries that will continue to be revealed and developed over time. Displays highlighting iconic brands, such as Dior, Ferragamo and Valentino, will also be available for guests to visit. Image: L'Officiel, House of Dreams Additionally, selected artworks will be exhibited as NFTs, including the magazine’s current autumn edition starring actress Jessica Chastain. “We are pleased to set a new standard for global fashion and luxury media, leveraging L’Officiel’s immensely valuable archival content while pioneering a unique digital, immersive experience,” said Benjamin Eyemére, CEO of L’Officiel, in a release. “Building this metaverse established a foundation for future virtual initiatives and put L’Officiel in a prime position for continued experimentation and innovation.” Image: L'Officiel, House of Dreams House of Dreams runs alongside the media company’s publication of the book, L’Official 100: One Hundred People and Ideas from a Century of Fashion, also part of the anniversary celebrations. Set to open on September 30, the online platform currently allows visitors to walk through its virtual doors and register for updates. On its launch, L’Officiel cover stars Jessica Chastain and Maluma will present a special message before the exhibition starts. The museum will have a permanent presence in partnership with blockchain site, The Sandbox. Image: L'Officiel, House of Dreams Image: L'Officiel, House of Dreams Image: L'Officiel, House of Dreams
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Skims launches pop-up in Paris

Image: Skims Kim Kardashian West’s underwear and shapewear brand, Skims has announced it will be opening a Paris-based pop-up shop, located in the iconic department store Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussman. The launch is part of the brand’s continued expansion into the European market, with the immersive experience set to feature a range of the brand’s core range of underwear, loungewear and shapewear. Art director Willo Perron was appointed as the designer of the conceptual location, in partnership with his studio, Perron-Roettinger. The visual designer has also worked with Stussy, Adidas and Yeezy on conceptual store spaces. “I’m thrilled to be bringing Skims to Paris,” said Kardashian West, in a statement. “Launching in Galleries Lafayette is a dream - it’s one of my favourite stores and I always make it a point to visit whenever I’m in Paris. I can’t wait for our French customers to now be able to experience the brand and our product in person.” The store will be open from September 28 to October 5, taking over the whole ground floor or the French department store. Visitors can try brand-coloured macarons by chocolatier Pieree Hermes, who was commissioned by Skims.
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Tuesday, September 28, 2021

Barbour launches collaboration with House of Hackney

Image: courtesy of Barbour In Pictures British heritage and lifestyle brand Barbour has launched a new womenswear collaboration with luxury British interiors company House of Hackney for autumn/winter 2021. The collection marks the first time the two brands have partnered together and coincides with the 10th anniversary of House of Hackney’s designs inspired by the natural world. The styles fuse Barbour’s heritage with three of House of Hackney’s most distinctive floral prints, ‘Trematonia’, ‘Saturnalia’ and ‘Artemis’, across seven styles of outerwear and three pieces of clothing for women. The first print, ‘Trematonia’ is a playful design inspired by the magical gardens and woods that surround the Castle of Trematon in Cornwall, which is home to the founders of House of Hackney, Frieda Gormley and Javvy M Royle. It has been used on the Barbour Stamford shirt, showcasing a mythical woodland setting with illustrations of animals including peacocks, snakes, turtles and leopards. Image: courtesy of Barbour The second print, ‘Saturnalia’, is a hexagonal patchwork design that blends florals with the mystical motifs found within ‘Trematonia’ and has been used as a lining in longer length wax jackets and quilts, waterproof breathables and as an all-over print for the Barbour Kingsland dress. The final print in the collection is known as ‘Artemis’ is one of House of Hackney’s most iconic prints and features psychedelic wildflowers. It has been used in the reversible Barbour Stamford quilt, as a flattering lining in the trench style Barbour Finsbury jacket and the Barbour Lea Bridge wax, as well as an all-over print in the Barbour Lea Bridge dress. Image: courtesy of Barbour Paul Wilkinson, global marketing and commercial director, Barbour said in a statement: “We are delighted to be working with House of Hackney on this outstanding womenswear collaboration for autumn/winter 2021. The collection combines heritage with modernity and the prints we have chosen together create a contemporary lifestyle collection that is distinctive and very covetable.” Frieda Gormley, co-founder of House of Hackney, added: “There is a great synergy between our two brands, which has made this collaboration with Barbour such a joy to work on: we’re both proudly British, family-owned and intrinsically linked with the English countryside. “We’re thrilled to see three of our most-loved prints translated into clothing and outerwear, designed to be worn out in nature – the very inspiration behind the motifs.” The Barbour x House of Hackney is available on barbour.com and selected stockists worldwide. Image: courtesy of Barbour Image: courtesy of Barbour Image: courtesy of Barbour Image: courtesy of Barbour
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Asos to create 184 jobs in Northern Ireland at new Belfast tech hub

Image: Asos Asos is to create 184 jobs in Northern Ireland over the next three years through a new tech hub in Belfast that it has invested 14 million pounds in. The new jobs are expected to contribute almost 6.5 million pounds in additional annual salaries, according to Northern Ireland’s economy minister Gordon Lyons, who announced the news. The new hub will be operational in early 2022, with 52 dedicated roles in the first year, growing to 184 by 2024. Recruitment is already underway, and is across a range of levels and job functions including engineering and data science. “Today’s announcement by Asos is a clear vote of confidence for Northern Ireland and our strong appeal as an investment location,” Lyons said. He continued: “Its new Belfast Tech Hub and the creation of over 180 jobs represents a major investment in Northern Ireland by the company. In return, our talent base will provide it with the high quality engineering resources it needs to deliver its international growth plans.” Asos CEO Nick Beighton commented: “As a rapidly growing business at the forefront of online retailing, we’re continually investing in our technology capabilities. Our new hub will provide us with cutting-edge tech expertise to support future growth. “Belfast has a wealth of tech talent and we’re excited to be establishing a permanent base in such a vibrant city.”
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MFW SS22: Donatella honours Versace foulard in show starring Dua Lipa

IN PICTURES Image: Versace, Dua Lipa Italian luxury house Versace presented its spring/summer 2022 collection during Milan Fashion Week, with a tribute to the label’s classic silk foulard scarf and a guest runway appearance by singer Dua Lipa. This SS20 presentation marks the brand’s first return to a physical show, with an in-person audience, in over two years. The luxury label missed Milan Fashion Week AW21, instead opting to present its collection in a digital format at a later date. Image: Versace, Gigi Hadid For this season, the line centred around the Versace silk foulard, a piece that has become an ingrained signature of the brand. Designs explored the silk scarf’s possibilities, through the use of billowing shirts or fitted dresses, each implementing the typically ornate print. “The foulard is a fundamental component of Versace’s heritage and character,” explained Donatella, in a release. “It’s acted as a canvas for our iconic prints and is worn in multiple ways from knotted tops to headscarves to bag accessories, it’s a way of adding Versace attitude to any look.” Image: Versace She continued: “The foulard has been with us since the very beginning of the brand, but this season turns everything on its head, it is no longer fluid or dreamy, the scarf is provocative, sexy, wound tight.” Garments appeared haphazardly constructed, with unpolished details and Versace safety pins tying slashed materials together. The silk scarf texture clashes with the latex looks, presented in the form of body-hugging dresses and tops that offered an additional contrast to the more oversized styles. Image: Versace Pyjama-inspired sets and basketball-like looks were among the array of contrasting designs, each implementing the iconic scarf print, with bold colour schemes of purples, yellows and pinks bringing a striking freshness to the pattern. Image: Versace Image: Versace Image: Versace Image: Versace Image: Versace
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Burberry merges new and old in SS22 Animal Instincts collection

IN PICTURES Image: Burberry British fashion house, Burberry has digitally presented its spring/summer 2022 womenswear collection, Animal Instincts, colliding classic elements of the brand with a fresh design perspective. The digital show took place outside the typical fashion show schedule, coming right after the conclusion of Milan Fashion Week. Mirroring the SS22 menswear collection, presented back in June, the new womenswear collection similarly took on a rebellious form, with exaggerated traits and raw details, aimed at “reinvigorating the traditional with a twist of youthful energy”. Deconstructed versions of the Burberry trench coat and gabardine led the way for the presentation, with either bold, striking silhouettes or cropped backs that revealed printed swimsuits. Image: Burberry Image: Burberry Additional outerwear offered new takes on construction, with oversized sleeves, collarless designs and raw hems that added to the intriguing details on some of the pieces. Others delivered an unstructured approach to British tailoring through the formation of boxy-fit blazers and scarf-like lapels that presented alternative styles. Elements of the collection drew influences from the ‘Universal Passport’ looks, with graphic and geometric colour-blocking both layered and printed over a number of dresses, shirts, mesh tops and blazers. The abstract prints intended to reflect the structure of camouflage details, in a more obscure form. Image: Burberry Image: Burberry Accessories provided a further exploration of experimental design, including the use of baseball caps complete with neoprene, conceptual panels and over-the-knee sock boots with an open toe. The digital presentation itself was certified carbon neutral as part of Burberry’s commitment through its Regeneration Fund, with measures taken to reduce the environmental impact of the event. Introduced in early 2020, the fund supports a variety of carbon insetting and offsetting projects directed around the footprint of the business. In the display, areas of the runway were developed with the implementation of different techniques that offered a variety of sensory experiences. One room featured walls enveloped in recycled Burberry trench coats, while another more industrial setting had mounds of sparkles constructed to form the runway. “To me, this presentation really represents the freedom of our imaginations: how we dream to come alive,” said Burberry CEO, Riccardo Tisci, in a release. “I wanted to move through a series of immersive spaces, each of them unique and unexpected in their sound, texture and experience. It’s that idea of flicking between the endless realities and fantasies we have at our fingertips each day.” He concluded: “This is for my mother, Elmerinda, and to a journey full of new possibilities.” Image: Burberry Image: Burberry Image: Burberry Image: Burberry Image: Burberry Image: Burberry
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Madewell and ThredUp open temporary second-hand store in Brooklyn

Image: Madwell x ThredUp Denim brand Madewell and resale platform ThredUp have opened a temporary store in Williamsburg, Brooklyn exclusively for second-hand fashion. As well as offering pre-loved clothing, the store aims to educate consumers on the impact of circular fashion, and also features an in-store mending station for damaged clothing. QR codes offer shoppers a better understanding of how to buy, wear, care for, and pass on clothing in a more sustainable way, while ThredUp ‘clean-out kits’ will be available in-store to allow consumers to donate their own garments. Prices range from 10 dollars to 40 dollars across jeans, dresses, jackets and more. The store will be open to the public until the end of October. The announcement builds on the tie-up by the two US companies announced in July which saw the launch of Madewell’s second-hand platform, ‘Madewell Forever’, which harnesses ThredUp’s resale-as-a-service (RaaS) to give preloved women’s jeans a new lease of life. The platform had over 3,000 products on its launch, with new styles added hourly as available. Prices range from 35 dollars to 50 dollars. Madewell said it aims to collect one million pairs of denim by 2023 through the platform - double what it has collected in the past six years through its existing denim trade-in program.
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Monday, September 27, 2021

Behind Gucci’s new experimental online space, Vault

Image: Gucci Formulated from the vision of Gucci’s creative director, Alessandro Michele, Vault aims to exist as a platform of many functions; an archive, a library and a meeting place. Now live, the new multimedia store carries a colourful composition with an array of sensory exploration adjacent to a curious range of products. Pieces include a range of restored archival Gucci items, alongside creations of emerging designers, in an editorial-like format. Accessories, vintage clothing and homeware are part of the selection, including pieces from a number of 80’s Gucci porcelain collections. Image: Gucci Currently labelled Edition 1: Discovery, the platform looks to evolve with each additional version, expanding its offering and producing more experimental opportunities. Shoppers have to sign up to the exclusive store in order to purchase the items, with many Gucci pieces already selling out within the first day of launching. “I asked myself: Why couldn’t a luxury house, with a creative director, have a space dedicated to expressive, aesthetic and social transmissions,” said Michele, in a statement. “I have created it with the most suitable medium of our time, this place where we can all go: the web. We have concocted a laboratory, a mine of ideas, curiosities, improbable encounters, since Gucci is a platform bringing together characters who, at first glance, do not seem to have anything in common” He continued: “Vault is, therefore, a place where wonders hybridise and come together to bring new creations to life. At the end of the day, Gucci’ greatest talent is always evolving, never getting old.” Conceptual exploration The Vault concept is defined by three underlying categories that each further emphasise the values of the new online store. ‘Vintage Selection’ is its most evident category, featuring pre-owned, vintage Gucci pieces, handpicked by Michele and in-house expert archivists. Items included have been reconditioned and often customised by Michele himself. Image: Gucci “When I find these objects, to me they are like relics; mutant relics,” explained the creative director. “We cared for them and chose them because we heard the tone of their voice; we put them in this sort of display window and I also treated them with love because I looked at them all again, examined them, and they became wonders.” Items for this edition included the 70’s vintage GG plus shoulder bag, Gucci’s 80’s leather wardrobe and classic printed scarves. Each individual product page comes with a complete profile covering the history of the item and the story behind its production. Evolving conversation Emerging designers make up the ‘Conversations’ category, highlighting an international variety of creators that have previously worked with the luxury label during GucciFest, back in 2020. The lineup currently includes the likes of Gui Rosa, Ahluwalia and Rave Review, with each designer selected for their ability to challenge the conventions of fashion. Image: Gui Rosa Every designer featured has a dedicated page briefing viewers on the story behind the label, the production process and the collection available. The platforms aim is to continue evolving this collaborative concept to push the boundaries of traditional shopping and continue expanding the designer offering as the site grows. Finally, ‘Editions’ is a category that brings together the multimedia aspect of the store. Digital short stories, poems and more aim to both entertain and surprise viewers, with each new edition of the site offering new opportunities to experiment. Image: Gucci In its current edition, visitors to the site can watch whimsical videos on experts explaining the story behind certain vintage pottery, as well as a video examining autonomous sensory meridian responses using Gucci products. The platform also provides humorous styling advice and presents a number of self-portraits that include items from its archival collection. The new digital concept store is a fascinating addition to the Gucci roster, allowing for both the possibility of circular fashion and the chance to bring to light upcoming names. It further enables Gucci fans and shoppers to generate a more concrete relationship with the label, through the fostering of a dialogue that aims to inspire and brings an imaginative story to the Gucci title. Image: Gucci Image: Gucci
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CNMI launches sustainable partnership with Ethical Fashion Initiative

The Italian fashion organisation, Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (CNMI) is teaming up with the United Nations Ethical Fashion Initiative (EFI) to launch a joint environmental, social, and corporate governance due diligence and corporate sustainability reporting framework for the fashion industry. The sustainable framework will enable stakeholders to access a system that introduces sustainability throughout the supply chain through serious processes of due diligence aimed at spotting, eliminating, mitigating environmental, social, and corporate governance risks, explained the CNMI and EFI in a statement. Simone Cipriani, head and founder of the Ethical Fashion Initiative, said in a statement: “An ESG Due Diligence and Corporate Sustainability reporting approach allows the fashion industry to talk sustainability consistently and transparently. It also enables investors and consumers to make informed decisions.” The framework will also form the basis for the CNMI Sustainable Fashion Awards, and for the first time, brands will be recognised not only for their designs but according to their performance environmental, social and governance criteria. Carlo Capasa, president of CNMI, added: “Having a big communication event on sustainability is not enough: we also need to work on the hard part of sustainability: the scientific foundation that lies under such a glamorous event.” The announcement was part of the Milan Climate and Fashion Talks event featuring talks about fashion sustainability and how the fashion industry could help limit the effects of climate change that will serve as recommendations to the Italian Government in view of COP26.
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Video: Milano Moda Graduate show 2021

In this video, Milano Fashion Week (MFW) has presented the Milano Moda Graduate show 2021, the event aims to showcase the top students of Italian fashion schools. Watch the video below. Video: IMAXtree.tv via YouTube Photo credit: Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, Facebook
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Kim Jones and Donatella Versace swap roles

The surprise catwalk show and previously unofficial event announced last minute at MFW turned out to be a swapping of roles between Versace and Fendi’s creatives and long-time friends, Donatella Versace and Kim Jones. The intimate experience Versace alluded to on its Instagram was a starry discoball lit runway come to light and life the moment 56 year-old supermodel Kristen McMenamy dressed in the first look of Versace by Kim Jones. Both runways were walked by a bevvy of supermodels who all have - or had - well-established links to both houses. The collaboration, cleverly executed in two parts, sees each designer ‘hack’ the other’s luxury house. At Versace x Fendi, Jones brought out the gold from the company’s vaults, making shirts, sliders and accessories shine with newness. Bedazzled bomber jackets, chunky neckwear and a wideleg pant suit in ton sur ton pale pink prints were the heroes of the collection. Closing the show was a double exit of Kate Moss in a little black dress and floor-length medusa-print coat walking alongside Amber Valetta in white bodycon and bomber in the house’s iconic print. It was as high 90s as it was commercially astute. At Fendi x Versace, logo-ed trench coats, tailoring and accessories were given the Versace codes. Models sporting long blond hair where an ode to Donatella, who gave Fendi’s denim a makeover, lowering the waist, adding a large double F buckle and pink fake fur to line a matching jacket. It wasn’t all sporty and stoppable separates, there was sensuous tailoring too: a black crepe dress with an asymmetric hem worn by Ania Rubik was elegant and feather light. A one-shoulder gown with contrast waist was cut from Versace’s famous black and gold printed silk but executed the Fendi way. Closing the show was Naomi Campbell in a sparkly pink sheath. If it wasn’t for the Fendi logo it could coolly be mistaken for Versace, and that was perhaps the point. In the show notes the brands were eager to stress it was not a collaboration but two iconic collections that celebrate the friendship of both creatives and the cultural impact of Fendi and Versace.
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At Milan Fashion Week there's freedom in dressing sexy

Image: Prada SS22 At Milan fashion week the hemlines are short and the body on full display via a myriad of garment constructions and revelations. There is the alluded sexiness, as seen at Prada, where a thigh-skimming silk dress was juxtaposed with a leather biker jacket. Shoes were pointy but the kitten heel kept the look from teetering into the overt. At Versace, jackets with cutaways revealed glimpses of skin, with safety pins keeping modesty in tact. Dresses came in latex, the fabric of fetishists. At Missoni a sleeveless gown in a silk zebra print was cut diagonally across the chest to leave one breast exposed. A bikini top layered underneath kept the look chaste. Image: Versace SS22 Sexy is back Sexy is back in a big way. All that pent up energy from working from home showed how much the In Real Life world was truly missed. The need for physical contact with friends, family, peers, lovers and colleagues has also brought with it a new sense of dressing. To shed the shell of isolation after 18 months of hibernating means it is time to show some skin. As the New York Times fashion critic said, “there’s an explosion of hedonism waiting to happen, a need for release after all this pent-up emotion; it’s a basic human instinct, no matter how grim the global situation.” Bandeau top are everywhere Stomachs are fashion’s latest focal point. Displayed in their full glory under cropped tops and bandeaux, the cover-ups are mostly jackets, preferably left open with a je ne sais quoi attitude to show the body underneath. Until the breeze catches it, of course. At Max Mara, a brand best known for its tailored coats, sporty cropped vests were paired with skirts cut above the knee, leaving stomachs exposed. There’s something to be said when a brand with a more mature clientele has opted to go full-on sexy. At Cavalli, the first show under newly appointed creative director Fausto Puglisi, all things animal print made a return. The molto sexy catwalk outing was to be expected from a house so richly defined by glamour, but there was dash of modernism in Puglisi’s designs too, the chunky biker boots paired with a tiger print mini and leather corsetry felt fresh and relevant. Image: Cavalli SS22 Fashion, in any form of restraint, was not a popular menu item at the Milan shows so far. Even at Jil Sander, where there was less body on show, the proportions were loose and oversized, less rigid and more playful. That perhaps sums up the first fashion season in a post-Covid era: the need to feel freedom in its many guises, especially in clothes.
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Sunday, September 26, 2021

Video: Roland Mouret SS22 collection

In this video, fashion designer Roland Mouret has presented his SS22 collection at London Fashion Week (LFW). Watch the video below. Video: FF Channel via YouTube Photo credit: Roland Mouret, Facebook
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Video: Ingrid Kraftchenko SS22 collection

In this video, fashion designer Ingrid Kraftchenko has presented her SS22 collection entitled 'Replikant' at London Fashion Week (LFW). Watch the video below. Video: Ingrid Kraftchenko via YouTube Photo credit: Ingrid Kraftchenko, Facebook
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Osman debuts Tencel Luxe at London Fashion Week

Image: courtesy of Osman In Pictures Osman Yousefzada’s starting point for his spring/summer 2022 collection was asking himself, “what happened to last season’s clothes” as he moves towards creating clothes with a purpose beyond satisfying commercial demand. The result was what the designer calls a “journey into biodegradable clothing” and a capsule collection of 15 looks made from Tencel Luxe, a sustainable alternative to silk from the Lenzing Group, made from sustainably sourced wood pulp. Tencel Luxe is certified as biodegradable and registered with the Vegan Society and is being pitched as a “truly sustainable alternative to silk” as the cellulosic filament is made from a renewable raw material that thrives with natural rainfall and sunlight. As well as being derived from wood grown in renewable, sustainably managed forests, in keeping with the stringent guidelines of the Lenzing Wood and Pulp Policy, it is also produced in an environmentally sound closed-loop process that recycles process water and reuses the production solvents at a recovery rate of more than 99 percent. Image: courtesy of Osman Commenting on becoming more sustainable, Yousefzada said in a statement: “We need to let go of the all-or-nothing attitude to sustainability and just try to do better. It is essential that designers and brands are consistently looking for ways to reduce their impact on the planet by pro-actively seeking fabrics that have less impact on the planet is its people, and pursue more ethical practices. That’s all. Just keep taking steps in the right direction. “The advent of Tencel Luxe filaments brings a whole host of potentially better choices. I was amazed at the versatility of the Tencel Luxe filament. Its ability to be blended with other fibres means that there is infinite scope for designers and brands that want to take steps to be more sustainable and ethical without compromising on luxury, quality or possibility.” Osman Yousefzada collaborates with Tencel Luxe for spring/summer 2022 Putting the new sustainable textile advancement into practice, Yousefzada worked closely with three separate mills, Shinjintex Co. Ltd, Sidónios Knitwear and Cocccon Crafts and Loom, all known for their ethical credentials. He selected a variety of distinct fabrics using Tencel Luxe to demonstrate the versatility of the filament, including delicate silk-like jerseys and paper-light, hand-woven organzas, to a fluid crepe georgette and a crisp gabardine twill. Image: courtesy of Osman Highlights from the collection made using Tencel Luxe included sheer jumpsuits made from gossamer lace jersey, a black party dress with flouncy puffed sleeves in a striped taffeta, a baby blue belted gown with bishop sleeves and a sharp blazer with exaggerated shoulders made from a crisp, black gabardine twill. Leonie Von Lieres, head of global marketing and account management, Tencel Luxe, added: “Osman is a wonderful example of a designer making inroads towards becoming more sustainable in the fabrics he uses. Not only can the Tencel Luxe filament be blended with other fibres to create an infinite variety of possible textiles, but the filament itself is made to the highest sustainability standards in a closed-loop production process and is completely biodegradable. It comes from the Earth and goes back to the Earth. “We are receiving ever-increasing interest from brands and global luxury labels wanting to improve the sustainability of their collections. With his SS22 collection, Osman has shown that by making small changes, brands do not have to compromise on quality or aesthetics to be more sustainable in their offering.” Image: courtesy of Osman The collection itself is a story of opposing elements and emotions, explains Yousefzada in the show notes, with couture silhouettes and details designed to attract attention with workwear shapes. Such as joyfully frothy excess of ruffles with architectural tailoring and floor-grazing sleeves balanced by the relaxed masculinity of tunics and trousers. Yousefzada’s tailoring and draping skills are at work throughout, making up a complete wardrobe, from biodegradable gowns to effortless casual ensembles, from head-turning sheer catsuits to the bohemian charm of hand-loomed ikat separates. While 15-pieces utilised Tencel Luxe, other elements of the collection were made from artisanal fabrics woven on hand-looms in India and Pakistan, using techniques that have not changed for centuries and have been handed down from generation to generation, family to family. The brand also continued with its Last Yards concept to reduce waste within this collection, with pieces using deadstock fabrics originally discovered by Yousefzada on his voyages of inspiration. These pieces will become numbered limited-edition items. Image: courtesy of Osman Image: courtesy of Osman Image: courtesy of Osman
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Video: Molly Goddard at LFW

In this video, fashion designer Molly Goddard has presented her SS22 collection at London Fashion Week (LFW). Watch the video below. Video: Molly Goddard via YouTube Photo credit: Skimmer Isaac, Facebook
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Video: Anna Mason SS22 collection

In this video, fashion designer Anna Mason has presented her SS22 collection at London Fashion Week (LFW). Watch the video below. Video: Fashion Channel via YouTube Photo credit: Anna Mason, Facebook
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