Milan fashion week Spring/Summer 2021 overview

Milan Fashion Week SS21 returned to something approaching pre-pandemics normalcy with shows staged in front of small audiences and unmasked models. Big names such as Parada and Versace aired on the side of caution with behind-closed-doors events and live screenings with only their in-house teams in attendance. Italian craftsmanship and heritage were high on the agenda as designers sought to celebrate a return to traditional fashion values. Prada The much-anticipated collaboration between Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons was shown via screens for SS21, displaying a collection that aimed to reaffirm high fashion’s creativity. Focussing on essentials, streamlined, 90’s-inspired trousers and tunics were accompanied by a reworking of Prada’s ‘ugly’ prints from the same decade, Simons’ personal graphics and an oversized take on the famous triangular logo. Images: Prada SS21, courtesy of Trendstop Fendi Silvia Venturini Fendi’s collection was an ode to her family, incorporating the stories, values and traditions of her family life to create fashion with meaning. Utilising linen and handcrafted detailing to emphasise sustainability and artisanship, the invitation for the show also included her grandmother’s pesto recipe and logo-shaped packs of pasta. Images: Fendi SS21, courtesy of Trendstop Moschino Jeremy Scott opted to delight with fashion fantasy as his garments ‘walked’ the runway on marionettes. Lockdown-inspired creativity saw couture looks transposed onto 30-inch-tall puppets, watched by models of industry players including Vogue’s Anna Wintour. The designs, including 18th century-inspired dresses and chiffon skirts, echoed fashion’s rediscovering of craftsmanship and haute couture. Images: Moschino SS21, courtesy of Trendstop Exclusive Offer: FashionUnited readers can get free access to Trendstop’s Pre Fall 2020 Key Neutral Colour Directions report, featuring all the essential core colours from the Pre Fall 2020 collections. Simply click the banner to receive your free report. Trendstop.com is one of the world's leading trend forecasting agencies for fashion and creative professionals, renowned for its insightful trend analysis and forecasts. Clients include H&M, Primark, Forever 21, Zalando, Geox, Evisu, Hugo Boss, L'Oreal and MTV.
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SupplyCompass partners with The Woolmark Company

The two companies have come together to help fashion and homeware brands produce sustainable wool collections, a fibre first for the production platform. Labels using the fashion production software firm, SupplyCompass, will have access to new manufacturers trusted by The Woolmark Company. The aim of the partnership is to empower more brands to produce sustainable wool collections with this versatile natural fibre. The phased roll-out of wool supply chains will initially see a select number of manufacturer partners go through an onboarding process involving a qualifying digital assessment, comprising the factory’s operational set-up, labour policies, code of conduct, sustainable practices and environmental initiatives, and a visit to the factory by a member of the specialist team. SupplyCompass co-founder, Flora Davidson, said in a statement: “We’re over the moon to be entering the wool market with the absolute experts, The Woolmark Company. We’ve been wanting to add wool to our supply chain for a while, but knew it had to be done in the right way. “This meant working with the right partner as well as getting our platform ready to ensure circularity and sustainable design could be integrated with transparency from the beginning, with the end goal of ensuring all wool garments have a positive impact throughout their entire lifecycle. We’re also thrilled with our Wool Guide which explains the fibre in detail.” SupplyCompass plans to have a global selection of manufacturers by the end of 2021, including weavers and knitters from China, Europe and India. Wool is a 100 percent natural, renewable and biodegradable fibre. It makes up only 1.2 percent of the global apparel market by volume, but makes up 8 percent of its value. The Woolmark Company Managing Director, Stuart McCullough, added: “We’re excited to be partnering with SupplyCompass and continue to build our global network of trusted supply chain partners. The current climate is also an opportune time for designers, brands and innovators to expand their knowledge and we are confident the new Wool Guide will be a beneficial educational resource.” Photo credit: SupplyCompass
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Russian online retailer mulling US stock exchange listing

Russian online retailer Ozon said Friday it is planning to list on the US stock exchange after meteoric growth, fuelled most recently by the boom in e-commerce due to coronavirus lockdowns. Ozon has "submitted a draft registration statement... to the Securities and Exchange Commission relating to the proposed initial public offering of its ordinary shares," the company said in a statement. "The number of shares to be offered and the price range for the proposed offering have not yet been determined. The initial public offering is expected to take place after the SEC completes its review process, subject to market and other conditions," it added. Earlier, a report in the Wall Street Journal said that Ozon -- which began in 1998 as an online bookstore and is often called Russia's Amazon -- was preparing an IPO later this year or early next year in a transaction potentially valuing it at $3.0-5.0 billion. Ozon notched up growth of more than 100 percent in the first quarter and nearly 200 percent in the second, as the pandemic boosted e-commerce platforms by spurring more people to shop online. Its main shareholders are the private equity firm Baring Vostok Capital and AFK Sistema, a conglomerate controlled by businessman Vladimir Yevtushenkov. With the Russian economy in the doldrums, e-commerce has seen several years of booming sales and a number of large groups, from public bank Sberbank to China's Alibaba, have tried to move into the market by teaming up with local internet giants, Yandex and Mail.ru.(AFP)
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Eastman Naia and DuPont Biomaterials launch new sustainable fabric collection

Global specialty materials company Eastman has collaborated with materials innovator DuPont Biomaterials to launch a new sustainable fabric collection. It brings together Eastman Naia cellulosic fibers and DuPont Sorona fibers to offer sustainable, biobased performance fabrics for comfortable everyday wear. “With Naia, we are committed to building a more sustainable fashion industry in collaboration with industry partners. We are very excited to be working with the Sorona team to launch a collection of wonderful fabrics that are a great choice for womenswear fashion. More and more, designers are looking for sustainable fabric choices. And this sustainable fabric collection with biobased, renewable materials showcases that fashion can come without any compromise on beauty, quality or comfort,” commented Ruth Farrell, global marketing director of textiles for Eastman, in a press release. Eastman’s Naia cellulosic fibres are made with responsibly sourced wood from sustainably managed pine and eucalyptus forests and plantations. They are produced in a safe, closed-loop process where solvents are recycled back into the system for reuse. Naia fibres have a low tree-to-fiber environmental footprint and a third-party-reviewed life-cycle assessment compliant with ISO 14044. Naia is also certified as biodegradable in freshwater and soil environments and is compostable in industrial settings, having received TÜV Austria’s “OK biodegradable” and “OK compost” conformity marks. Fiber inventor DuPont, known for groundbreaking fibers such as nylon, Lycra, Kevlar and rayon, made its Sorona brand from 37 percent renewable plant-based ingredients. It is a USDA certified biobased product and received Oeko-Tex Standard 100 certification. According to the company, the high-performing fibers made with Sorona polymer are currently used in various apparel applications, including athleisure and athletic wear, insulation, swimwear, outerwear, suiting, faux fur and more. ”We believe collaboration is the only way we will deliver on our promises to the textile industry. Our collaboration with Eastman's Naia branded fibers will allow more apparel brands the opportunity to address tomorrow's challenges through renewably sourced fiber materials without compromising performance and value. Sustainable fashion is the future, and this new collection is a great example of how you can create stunning designs while caring for our planet,” said Renee Henze, global marketing director at DuPont Biomaterials. While Eastman’s Naia cellulosic staple fiber debuted at Première Vision Paris in February, the new sustainable fabric collection by Eastman and DuPont was available for visitors at Intertextile Shanghai in September and for brands at the Première Vision marketplace site. Image: Eastman / DuPont
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Uniqlo Japan September same-store sales up 10 percent

September 2020 same-store sales including online sales at Uniqlo Japan increased by 10 percent while total sales including online sales increased by 10.4 percent. The company, part of the Fast Retailing Group said that September witnessed double-digit year-on-year growth in same-store sales as continued hot weather through the middle of the month resulted in strong sales of summer ranges, and products designed to fulfill recent stay-at-home needs and AIRism masks also sold well. At the end of September, the company added that a total of four stores remained temporarily closed and 90 stores were operating shorter working hours due to Covid-19. The company opened three stores and closed four during the month under review.
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Gap reimagines hiring for festive season in the US and Canada

Gap Inc. has outlined plans to hire seasonal workers to help support its customer experience centres, which include Athleta, Banana Republic, Gap, Janie and Jack, Old Navy and Intermix stores. To make the hiring process safer and easier, the company will be hiring virtually, allowing applicants to apply online for any role in three minutes or less. Gap Inc. acquired 3.5 million new customers through its online channels in Q2. To meet the surge in online demand due to Covid-19, Gap Inc. is looking to fill roles across the business that will include packing, assembling merchandise, preparing orders for shipment, serving customers through its customer contact centres and additional staffing for contactless services. New systems such as ‘Curbside Pickup’, ‘Buy Online’ and ‘Pickup In Store’ were rolled out so that consumers wary of the virus could choose how they wanted to shop. Sheila Peters, head of people and culture at Gap Inc., said in a statement: “At Gap Inc., we know the holiday season will be different this year and are committed to helping our teams provide our loyal customers with a safe and seamless shopping experience for all their gifting needs.” Photo credit: Caleb Krivoshey for Gap
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The pandemic has US consumers re-thinking Thanksgiving Day shopping

As the busiest shopping period approaches for retailers, US consumers are starting to re-think wanting retailers to open on Thanksgiving Day. Accenture Survey asked 1,500 US consumers their views on shopping this festive season. Three quarters of those surveyed said they want retailers to close on Thanksgiving Day. 61 percent of consumers state they are to minimise their in-store shopping to reduce health risks to essential workers. In addition, 41 percent said they won’t shop with retailers that have laid off staff or reduced employees’ benefits because of coronavirus, while 57 percent would be inspired to shop with a retailer that supported their staff and customers during the crisis. Jill Standish, a senior managing director at Accenture and head of its Retail practice globally, said in a statement: “Our survey findings show that this could be shaping up to be a very ‘human’ holiday, with a desire to support the people who have served our communities. “Retailers need to respond, there has never been a more important time to be authentic and clearly communicate what they are doing to look after their employees and the wider community.” Retailer supply chains under strain The shift in online shopping has only been sped up by the pandemic, with 75 percent of consumers stating they will at least do some online shopping over the winter season, up from 65 percent in last year's survey. While 43 percent of consumers declared they will only be online shopping this year. “Given the pandemic is still making consumers wary about visiting stores, retailers must ensure that their e-commerce capabilities are up to the task and that they have transparency into demand changes and inventory,” said Brooks Kitchel, head of Accenture Strategy’s retail industry sector. An opportunity for retailers to bring consumers back into stores would be to organise appointment based shopping, two thirds of respondents said this would make them consider returning to physical stores. Standish concluded: “This year’s holiday season will be characterised by unique challenges that will require retailers to focus on augmenting and sustaining digital assets, spreading the peak over numerous weeks, and quickly responding to market changes by flexing inventory across the supply chain or shaping demand through promotions and pricing actions.” Photo credit: Rawpixels.com
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Pandora unveils Star Wars jewellery collection

Pandora has unveiled its first Star Wars jewellery collection featuring characters and symbols of the Star Wars galaxy including charms of C-3P0, R2-D2, Chewbacca, and Darth Vader. The 12-piece capsule collection, launching today, October 1, has been inspired by the Star Wars franchise and has been “carefully conceptualised” in collaboration with Lucasfilm. The collection features 10 charms, a bracelet and an additional limited-edition collector’s charm featuring Star Wars characters, logos and phrases such as ‘May the force be with you’. Each piece has been sustainably made from 71 percent recycled metals, explained Pandora. “We wanted to tap into the futuristic yet vintage aesthetic of Star Wars that is well known from the original trilogy all the way to the new Disney+ series, The Mandalorian,” said Francesco Terzo and A. Filippo Ficarelli, Pandora’s vice president creative directors in a statement. “We worked hard to transform the pieces of Star Wars into jewellery using intricate design detailing and expert craftsmanship techniques.” Paul Southern, senior vice president, licensing and franchise of Lucasfilm, added: “Inspired by the Star Wars galaxy, this collection includes a variety of options for fans around the world to customise their looks. The collection succeeds in capturing the symbols and beloved characters of Star Wars and reimagining them in jewellery form.” The Star Wars x Pandora collection is available in Pandora stores worldwide and on pandora.net. Images: courtesy of Pandora
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Boohoo raises full year outlook after strong H1 revenue and profit growth

Boohoo Group revenue for the first half-year increased by 45 percent or 44 percent CER to 816.5 million pounds (1,048.4 million dollar). The company said in a statement that adjusted EBITDA for the period was 89.8 million pounds (115.3 million dollars), an increase of 48 percent, while profit before tax was 68.1 million pounds (87.4 million dollars), an increase of 51 percent and adjusted diluted earnings per share were 4.53p, up 56 percent on the prior half-year. Basic earnings per share rose to 4.08p, an increase of 42 percent. Commenting on the first half update, John Lyttle, the company’s CEO, said: “Our business, along with many others, has faced some of its most challenging times in recent months. There are many challenges still ahead due to uncertainties posed by the COVID-19 pandemic, but despite these challenges there are many positives from our activities in the first half. We are pleased to be able to report a strong performance with continued high growth rates in revenue and strong profitability.” Boohoo raises full year outlook on strong first half The company added that group revenue growth for the year to February 28, 2021 is expected to be 28 percent to 32 percent, up from approximately 25 percent as previously guided, with adjusted EBITDA margin for the year at around 10 percent, increased from the 9.5 percent to 10 percent as previously guided. The company’s medium term guidance for 25 percent sales growth per annum and a 10 percent adjusted EBITDA margin remains unchanged. The group’s largest market UK, accounting for 53 percent of group revenues witnessed growth of 37 percent was strong across all brands, gross margin increased from 50.3 percent to 52.1 percent, supported by a small increase in basket size and a strong product offering. The company further said that the performance in the rest of Europe positive with revenue growth of 41 percent to 123.7 million pounds (158.7 million dollars). Gross margin in the region declined from 57.9 percent to 57.8 percent. In the USA, the company saw revenue increase by 83 percent, while gross margin declined from 61.9 percent to 59.3 percent. Rest of world growth was 17 percent, while gross margin declined from 55.7 percent to 55.3 percent. Active customer numbers in the last 12 months increased by 34 percent to 17.4 million, with a 10 percent increase in the number of items per basket, particularly in overseas markets. Picture:Facebook/Boohoo
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Payment by the wave of a hand: Amazon's new biometric system

Amazon on Tuesday unveiled a new biometric payment system using palm recognition, to be made available to rival retailers and also promoted as a replacement for badge entry at stadiums or workplaces. The system called Amazon One was touted as "a fast, convenient, contactless way for people to use their palm to make everyday activities like paying at a store, presenting a loyalty card, entering a location like a stadium, or badging into work more effortless." The US technology giant said it would be installing the system at its Amazon Go retail locations, starting with two stores in its hometown of Seattle, Washington. Amazon vice president Dilip Kumar said the system was developed as "a quick, reliable, and secure way for people to identify themselves or authorize a transaction while moving seamlessly through their day." Amazon One uses each individual's "unique palm signature," an alternative to other biometric identifiers such as fingerprint, iris or facial recognition. "No two palms are alike, so we analyze all these aspects with our vision technology and select the most distinct identifiers on your palm to create your palm signature," Kumar said in a blog post. In Amazon Go stores, the palm-waving system will be added to the store's entry gate as an option for shoppers. "In most retail environments, Amazon One could become an alternate payment or loyalty card option with a device at the checkout counter next to a traditional point of sale system," Kumar added. The company said it was "in active discussions with several potential customers," which could include other retailers, but offered no details. Biometric blues The announcement comes amid rapid growth in the use of biometric payments ranging from fingerprint verification on smartphones to more sophisticated systems using facial recognition. China's Alipay -- the financial arm of e commerce giant Alibaba -- has been using a "Smile-to-Pay" system, with a machine roughly the size of an iPad, for retailers. The shift has also raised privacy concerns about how biometric data will be safeguarded and protected from hackers. Amazon said the biometric data would be "protected by multiple security controls and palm images are never stored on the Amazon One device" but send to a "highly secure area we custom-built in the cloud." Doug Stephens of the consulting firm Retail Prophet, said Amazon would need to protect the data to gain user trust in the system to make it mainstream. "Biometrics as a form of ID/payment etc. has always made ultimate sense," Stephens said on Twitter. "The question is, will Amazon mainstream our comfort with them or violate our trust?"(AFP) photo: via Amazon.com
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Vans and KOI introduce 'Work A Day In Our Shoes' campaign

The collaboration between Vans and Kids Of Immigrants (KOI) celebrates the working class, the immigrant community and people of all margins, launching exclusively on the Greenhouse App. Mel Peralta, senior director of Greenhouse, said in a statement: “We’re not only a product incubator, we’re a cultural incubator at heart and in practice. The collaboration with Kids Of Immigrants and Vans captures the energy and ethos of what we stand for. We hope people continue to learn more about the vibrant immigrant communities in our country and their importance.” Photo credit: Victor Viega The body of the Vans Lowland CC sneaker is lined with an off white canvas material doused in paint strokes. Each shoe has been personally modified and distressed by members of the KOI team and will be accompanied by a brush and sandpaper that allows for additional customisation. Each pair of the Vans x KOI partnership will retail at 100 dollars and will be available exclusively on the Greenhouse App, footlocker.com, Foot Locker Compton and the KOI website, 2 October, the release will also include a KOI t-shirt, hoodie and bucket hat. Photo credit: Mario Kristian + David Camarena As part of the collaboration and campaign, Vans will be donating 5000 dollars to ‘A New Way of Life’, a non-profit that provides support for women rebuilding their lives after prison, KOI will also be assisting with the group. Main photo: Mario Kristian + David Camarena
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The Very Group appoints chief data officer

British online retailer The Very Group has announced the appointment of Steve Pimblett as chief data officer (CDO). In his new role, Pimblett will oversee “all things data” at the retailer, including strategy, science, analytics and engineering, and will report to chief technology officer (CTO) Andy Burton. Pimblett joins Very from British tech scale-up Wejo where he most recently held the joint title of CDO and chief information officer (CIO). Prior to that, he held roles as CDO at NASDAQ-listed online gaming company Betsson Group and general manager of data at Moneysupermarket.com. Commenting on his new role, Pimblett said: “It’s an exciting time to join The Very Group, which has an ambitious vision for the future, and is growing as more and more UK consumers shop online. I can’t wait to work with the team to use our wealth of rich customer data to improve business performance.” CTO Andy Burton added: “Steve is an outstanding leader with real technical know-how. His experience will let us further build our data capabilities to give our customers the best, most relevant experiences and help us make even faster, better decisions.” Photo credit: Very, Facebook
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LVMH hits Tiffany with a countersuit

French behemoth LVMH said Tuesday that it had filed a countersuit against the American jewellery brand Tiffany, setting up an unusual legal fight after the collapse of one of the biggest luxury takeover bids in decades. LVMH walked away from its 16.2 billion dollar offer this month after claiming a series of poor decisions by Tiffany's board since the deal was unveiled late last year. It also cited a letter from the French foreign ministry that purportedly asked for a delay to the tie-up because of political uncertainties caused by the long-running trade war between the EU and Washington. Tiffany rubbished the claims and sued to force LVMH to go through with its bid, and a US court in Delaware, where many US firms are incorporated, approved a fast-track trial set to begin in January. The court also urged the two sides to try to work out a settlement, but an escalating war of words makes that prospect unlikely. "LVMH continues to have full confidence in its position that the conditions necessary to close the acquisition of Tiffany have not been met and that the spurious arguments put forward by Tiffany are completely unfounded," the French firm, by far the world's largest luxury conglomerate, said Tuesday. It again accused Tiffany of "mismanagement" by paying high dividends, investing when it should have been conserving cash because of the Covid-19 pandemic, and taking on too much debt. Tiffany refused to comment when contacted by AFP in New York on Monday, after a report of LVMH's countersuit was published by Bloomberg News.(AFP) Photo: Tiffany Facebook
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In pictures: Moschino makes puppet show for presentation SS21

Due to the ongoing corona crisis, shows on location with real models remain a challenge. However, fashion brands are coming up with original alternatives: from online performances to a three-dimensional 'digital village'. But the prize for the most charming, and, admittedly a bit uncomfortable, goes to Moschino's puppet show, last Sunday during Milan Fashion Week SS21. This is not a puppet show, this is a fashion show: Moschino's puppets for SS21 The presentation takes the form of a short film in which designer Jeremy Scott encounters a puppet show at a fair where a puppet version of himself is hoisting a model into a miniature couture dress. "Ah, I love puppet shows," sighs the real Jeremy, in which the little designer contradicts him: "This is not a puppet show, this is a fashion show!" A little door swings open in the décor, and behind it, there's the cream of fashion in the form of dolls. Anna Wintour is there, as well as Nina Garcia, Edward Enninful, Andrew Bolton and Vanessa Friedman. The models, also puppets, show a collection of forty sophisticated looks, complete with doll bags and doll heels. The dolls were made in the studio of the late Jim Henson, the man behind the Muppets, Sesame Street and The Dark Crystal. Scott has worked with the studio before: in 2011 he dressed Muppets character Miss Piggy for the big Muppet movie. Lovely as it was, the presentation had something alienating at the same time. Perhaps because the Moschino show also seems to be a critique of the traditional fashion show, which has been described by critics more than once as a 'puppet show': as a spectacle in which models and audience are 'played'. Seen in this light, the show fits in well with the oeuvre of Scott and Moschino as a brand that likes to magnify the bizarre emblems and mechanisms of the fashion world and thus bring them to attention. Take a look at the images below: Photo credits: Moschino SS21 via Catwalkpictures This article was previously published on FashionUnited.nl. Translation and editing: Andrea Byrne
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Milan fashion week: SS21 top trends

Face masks may have been the standout accessory at Milan fashion week, but designers who defied the coronavirus pandemic to put on shows dispelled gloom with love letters to Italy and sunnier times. The week ended Sunday with Valentino, which had moved its catwalk from Paris this season as a show of support for an Italy devastated by the virus earlier this year. Here is a round-up of the top three Spring-Summer 2021 trends: Photos: Dolce & Gabbana SS21, Catwalkpictures Italy my love Whether or not people will be permitted to travel to Italy next summer, they can be transported there through their wardrobes. Dolce&Gabbana paid homage to the designers' beloved Sicily, with a patchwork collection evoking the island's warmth and colours, while Etro was inspired by the picturesque Amalfi coast. "I started the collection during the lockdown," designer Veronica Etro said before her show. "Like everyone else, I was at home doing housework. And my mother and I restored an old record player and started listening to old Neapolitan songs, and we were bewitched by the serenity, timelessness and elegance. "Then I started thinking about a trip I made in 2019 to Ischia, Capri, Naples and Positano, and -- maybe because we were feeling so patriotic then -- I thought, okay, let's do the collection in Italy," she said. Silky caftans in sorbet colours, patterned bikini tops and straw hats suggested walks on the beach before enjoying chic aperitifs. Pucci instead headed for the island of Capri, distilling the fashion house's signature prints and '60s silhouettes -- including its famous Canzone del Mare pattern -- in pastel sheer silks and organzas. Max Mara's creative director Ian Griffiths thought not of seaside pleasures but summer in Italy's art cities and the Renaissance, with hexagonal motifs mimicking the mosaic floors of the country's cathedrals. Photos: Versace SS21, Catwalkpictures Retrospection, reinterpretation The nationwide lockdown also appears to have prompted Italy's luxury brands to dust off their archives and reinterpret key pieces from the past. Versace led the way, with Donatella Versace building on Gianni Versace's "tresor de la mer" collection for Spring 1992, with its starfish, coral and seashell motifs. At Fendi, the collection was inspired by the finely embroidered household linen owned by designer Silvia Venturini Fendi's family. Over at Marni, coats made from up-cycled pieces from previous collections were then hand-painted with words that designer Francesco Risso collected from exchanges he had with friends and his team during lockdown. Dolce&Gabbana used remnants of fabric from previous seasons to lower the environmental impact of their show. Photos: Fendi SS21, Catwalkpictures Lockdown lazing It was an oft-heard debate of lockdown: does not leaving the house mean you can stay in your pyjamas all day? Italy's designers gave an out to those reluctant to suit up: Armani proposed silk sweatpants, while Fendi paired outfits with slippers. Etro encouraged lounging in caftans and nightgowns, while Max Mara indulged slouchers with hooded sweatshirts. And Valentino provided the cherry on the home-comfort cake with a surprise collaboration with Levi's that produced a coed model of the 517 boot cut jean.(AFP) Main images: Etro SS21, Catwalkpictures
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Andrea Pompilio to launches womenswear during Milan Fashion Week

Andrea Pompilio isn't letting the boys have all the fun. The menswear designer known for his tailoring and retro inspiration will be debuting his first full-fledged women's collection during Milan Fashion Week. The collection will debut tomorrow. The collection came about as an extension of women's capsule collections Pompilio had done in the past. He had been planning to expand into women's since before the global coronavirus pandemic resulted in months long lockdowns. Andrea Pompilio's social media audience is about 65 percent women, and he's already had female consumers who buy small size men's suits. They were quite literally borrowing from the boys. Pompilio was luckily able to source fabrics before Italy went into lockdown. From the first collection buyers and customers can expect feminized versions of his masculine silhouettes and materials, along with things like light tulle. It might be a new approach from Pompilio, but he's looking at Asia to be one of his key markets where he already has a strong menswear customer base. photo: via andreapompilio.it
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Fenty names new managing director

WWD has reported that Rihanna's LVMH-owned Fenty line has named Bastien Renard its new managing director. Renard had spent over 19 years at Nike, working in both the U.S. and Europe, before he quietly joined Fenty recently. Renard takes over the duties previously held by Véronique Gabel, an LVMH ready-to-wear executive. Renard will report to Jean Baptiste Voisin, LVMH's chief strategy officer. Rihanna had quickly made a name and major profit herself in the cosmetics world in partnership with LVMH thanks to her extremely popular Fenty Beauty line. In May of 2019, it was announced that LVMH would be backing Rihanna for her ready-to-wear, accessories, and shoe collection, making it the first brand LVMH had launched a fashion brand since it backed Christian Lacroix couture in 1987. Renard is a true industry veteran. After graduating from Stanford with a degree in strategic marketing management, and acquiring additional degrees from NEOMA Business School and Middlesex University, Renard began climbing the ranks of corporate retail. He was most recently vice president and general manager of Nike by You, where he led Nike's direct-to-consumer business. He's also been vice president of Converse, where he oversaw some of the brand's most notable collaborations, including ones with JW Anderson, Tyler the Creator, and Miley Cyrus. photo: via fenty.com
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Mothercare swings to full-year profit

Mothercare has reported a 14.4 million pound profit for the full year ended 28 March, compared to a loss of 97 million pounds the year before. However, total group revenue at the maternity and babywear specialist for the period was down to 164.7 million pounds compared to 199.8 million pounds a year earlier. For the first twenty-eight weeks of FY21, revenue was down 39 percent to 145.8 million pounds, which the company attributed to the Covid-19 lockdowns which “severely affected” the group’s franchise partners. “We have diligently managed our way through to mitigate the impact of the Covid-19 pandemic during this period of global crisis, and we emerge in better shape than we went into it. We continue to reduce costs and improve our efficiency,” commented chairman Clive Whiley. In August, the company announced the launch of a “more sustainable and less capital-intensive” business model from the AW20 season. It came after the company put its UK business into administration last year with all 79 of its stores closed. “This new model results in our franchise partners contracting to pay for products directly to our manufacturing partners, thus removing the timing mismatch we were experiencing with the reduction in our payment terms and so improving the group’s working capital requirements,” the company said in August. The retailer also recently launched its new 10-year UK and Ireland franchise deal with Boots, which was initially announced in December but was repeatedly delayed due to the Covid-19 pandemic. Additionally, it has entered into a new 20-year franchise agreement with Alshaya, its largest partner. Photo credit: Mothercare UK, Facebook
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New CEO for Patagonia

Patagonia has announced several new leadership changes. Ryan Gellert, for example, has been appointed to CEO of Patagonia Works, the parent company of the fashion brand Patagonia. The brand itself will now be led by Jenna Johnson, who was appointed as head of Patagonia Inc., according to a press release from Patagonia Works. “I am honoured and humbled by the opportunity and keenly aware of the responsibility to lead this company in this critical time,” Gellert said in a statement. Jenna Johnson previously worked as manager of the technical outdoor branch of Patagonia, and has more than 20 years of experience in the outdoor industry.
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Bestseller and Spinnova have partnered in a long-term sustainability journey

Bestseller and Spinnova are going to work together in a joint development phase to investigate which commercial products in Bestseller’s range of brands such as Vero Moda, Vila and Selected would suit Spinnova’s sustainable fibre. Spinnova is now working towards commercial scaleup with a number of brand owners, its fibre is made up of wood and waste without any harmful chemicals. Spinnova’s CEO and co-founder Janne Poranen, said in a statement: “Having great brand partners like Bestseller, with the expertise and resources to collaborate with an innovator like us, has been crucial to our material development. “Bestseller has guided us in finding the right brands and prototype products in their portfolio that we could create with our material and perhaps introduce even before they are commercially available.” The ambition of the partnership is to create the world’s most sustainable fabric and turn it into commercial products.Camilla Skjønning Jørgensen, sustainable materials and innovation manager for Bestseller, commented: “We’re extremely proud to announce this collaboration with Spinnova, which is a highly promising material innovator. “As always, our aim is to change the fashion industry for the better. Bestseller is an early adopter of Spinnova’s revolutionary material, and we genuinely believe in their ambition of making a truly sustainable material, which can be turned into commercial products." Bestseller launched the Fashion FWD strategy to ““transform the fashion industry for a sustainable reality.” In the coming months, the Fashion FWD Lab will reveal more new collaborations. Photo credit: Bestseller
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