Activists slam conditions at Europe's fur farms

Renard. Credits: Margaret Weir, Unsplash.



Helsinki (AFP) - Animal rights group on Friday decried conditions at 31 fur farms in Europe, following the emergence of videos
showing dead mutilated foxes lying in cages and minks with severe eye infections.


The videos, released by animal rights group Humane Society International
(HSI), were filmed clandestinely at 20 fur farms in Lithuania, five in
Finland, two each in Poland and Spain, and one each in Denmark and Latvia.


They were shot between April and November this year by several animal
rights associations, including Oikeutta elaimille in Finland, Otwarte Klatki
in Poland and Tu Abrigo Su Vida in Spain, an activist at Oikeutta elaimille,
Kristo Muurimaa, told AFP.


The groups made around 100 visits in total to the fur farms, the HSI said.


The photos and videos, seen by AFP, show caged minks, foxes and raccoon
dogs sick and in convulsions, as well as a number of animal cadavres with open
wounds lying in the cages.


The Humane Society International, speaking on behalf of the associations,
said the images illustrate the need for a ban on fur farming.


"We need a Europe-wide ban on fur farming because it is quite evident that
animal suffering is part of the fabric of the fur farming industry,"
spokeswoman Wendy Higgins told AFP.


A petition calling for an end to the fur industry has garnered more than
1.5 million signatures from EU citizens and has been submitted to the European
Commission, surpassing the one million required to trigger a response from the
Commission.


Its answer is expected by December 14, HSI said.


The fur industry dismissed the criticism.


"I am not going to react to (the conclusions drawn by) people who break
into farms and frighten the animals and create videos which are misleading,"
said Mark Oaten, the head of the International Fur Federation representing the
industry.


"We welcome a scientific review of fur farming at the EU level, we have
nothing to hide," he told AFP.


Oaten said an outright ban would lead to thousands of job losses in an
industry he said was valued at $18 billion worldwide.


Twenty European countries have banned fur farms, including 15 EU member
states.


Europe's leading fur farming nation Finland has around 400 farms and some
1.3 million animals, primarily minks and foxes.


Denmark, the previous holder of the title, reauthorised mink farming as of
January 2023, after a two-year ban during the Covid pandemic to combat mutated
strains of the virus (AFP).


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Retail sales fall in October as wet weather dampens spending

Princess Street, Manchester, UK. Credits: Unsplash.



New figures by the Office of National Statistics (ONS) have revealed that retail sales fell in October as the wet weather impacted footfall and spending across the country.


According to the organisation, retail sales volumes fell 0.3 percent over the month, following a steeper 1.1 percent decrease in September. In the three months to October, sales volumes fell 1.1 percent compared to the prior three months.


Non-food stores sales volume fell by 0.2 percent, up from the 2.1 percent in September, with cost-of-living, reduced footfall and wet weather being cited as the main impacting factors.


Clothing stores had reported a 0.9 percent drop in sales, attributing the decrease to “unseasonably warm weather” that affected the sale of autumn and winter wear.


Department store sales had less of an issue, with just a 0.1 percent drop in sales throughout the month, largely due to a drop in consumer confidence.


The only sub-sector to see positive growth was reported to be other non-food stores, with sales rising 0.8 percent as watches and jewellery stores saw a partial rebound following a fall in the month prior.


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Marks & Spencer, H&M and Adidas in Forbes best companies for women 2023 ranking

H&M storefront. Credits: Courtesy of H&M



How do you define the best companies for women? Those who take the initiative for their well-being and development? According to Forbes magazine, these are companies that offer flexible working arrangements, skills development programmes, family leave options and a mission that is aligned with women's empowerment. This list of criteria is, of course, non-exhaustive.


At a time when the International Labour Organisation estimates that 47 percent of the world's workforce is made up of women, compared with 72 percent of men. And while female employees tend to hold lower-quality jobs, Forbes wanted to shine a spotlight on the good performers, those companies which, through their policies, are succeeding in developing women. To do this, the magazine teamed up with market research firm Statista to draw up a ranking of the world's best companies for women in 2023.


In the fashion industry, Marks & Spencer was the first company to feature in the ranking. The British retail chain, which employs over 72,000 people, came in sixth, and was directly followed by H&M, the Swedish fashion giant that employs 106,522 people. Intersport then came in eighth place, Adidas in 10th place, while the PHV group came 27th. In 35th place was Zalando.


Luxury brands not at the top of the rankings




Far behind, Chanel came in at 65th place, followed by Gap. The French brand, owned by the Wertheimer brothers, is the first luxury company to appear in the ranking. Proof that, according to the women surveyed for this ranking, working in the luxury sector is no guarantee of having the ideal conditions for professional advancement. Another luxury brand, France’s Hermès, is ranked 81st.


To compile this list, the two organisations questioned some 70,000 women working for multinationals in 37 countries. Participants were asked to indicate whether they would recommend their employer to friends or family members, and to rate the company both on general workplace practices and on gender-related issues, including pay equity between men and women, handling of cases of employee discrimination, and whether men and women have equal opportunities for promotion.


It should be noted that the ranking, which takes into account 365 international companies, is dominated by a French company. With 9,327 employees, the insurance company La Maif is in first place among the best companies in the world for women in 2023.


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Tanking Alibaba drags Hong Kong as markets rally fades

Credits: Alibaba




Hong Kong - Asian stocks fell Friday as a rally fuelled by the likely end of US interest rate hikes ran out of puff, while Alibaba dragged Hong Kong down after saying it would cancel the planned spinoff of its cloud computing arm.


After an exciting few days on trading floors, the week headed for a tepid
finish, with Wall Street drifting even as a forecast-beating jump in US
jobless claims added to optimism the central bank would not tighten again.


The latest labour market figures follow weaker-than-expected prints on
consumer and producer price inflation, which indicated more than a year of
rate hikes were having the desired effects.


The readings sparked a surge across markets and sent Treasury yields
tumbling, with some traders even entertaining the idea of several cuts to
borrowing costs next year.


"This unexpected increase may further reinforce the view that the economic
situation may require or at least suggest a shift in the Federal Reserve
policy is warranted," said Stephen Innes at SPI Asset Management.


"When taken with cool reads on consumer and producer prices, this week's
claims update argues, at minimum, against additional Fed hikes."


However, traders remain on edge that the Fed has left the door open to a
possible hike if data takes a turn for the worse, leading to warnings the
economy could be in danger of slipping into recession.


Those worried about a downturn pointed to unemployment benefits being at
their highest in two years, factory production dropping more than forecast and
homebuilder sentiment at its weakest in 2023.


In early trade, Sydney, Seoul, Singapore, Manila, Jakarta and Wellington
were in the red. Tokyo was marginally lower.



Taken aback'





Hong Kong led the losses as market-heavyweight Alibaba was hammered more
than nine percent after its shock decision not to spin off its cloud computing
arm because of the US-China chip war.


In one of its most wide-ranging restructurings, Alibaba said in March it
planned to split the vast group into six distinct entities that would be able
to separately pursue funding through public listings.


But on Thursday, it called off the creation of its Cloud Intelligence arm
in light of "the recent expansion of US restrictions on export of advanced
computing chips".


Washington has cited national security grounds in moving to bar the
shipment to China of powerful chips, including those from California-based
Nvidia, which are crucial to the development of artificial intelligence.


The firm said in an earnings release Thursday that the spinoff "may not
achieve the intended effect of shareholder value enhancement".


"Accordingly, we have decided to not proceed with a full spin-off, and
instead we will focus on developing a sustainable growth model for Cloud
Intelligence Group under the fluid circumstances," it added.


The announcement surprised traders, and its US-listed shares tanked more
than nine percent, as it was one of the most high-profile victims of the
China-US standoff.


It was the latest blow to the firm, which has in recent years been under
the hard gaze of Beijing and hit by a series of restrictions on the domestic
tech sector


"I was quite taken aback," said Kevin Net, at Tocqueville Finance. "My
initial thoughts are that the whole corporate restructuring... could be at
risk."


And Forsyth Barr Asia's Willer Chen simply said: "The market is scratching
its head."


Crude prices inched higher but made very little headway into Thursday's
collapse of more than almost five percent that came on the back of demand
worries, China's economic woes and rising US stockpiles.


West Texas Intermediate fell into a bear market having shed more than 20
percent from its recent peak, with pledges from Saudi Arabia and Russia to
maintain output cuts unable to provide enough support (AFP).


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Vestiaire Collective cuts out H&M, Zara and more in expanded fast fashion ban

An image showing the accumulation of textile waste Credits: Vestiaire collective



Second-hand resale platform Vestiaire Collective has said that it will be expanding its ban of fast fashion in a bid to further its efforts of tackling waste in the industry.


While in 2022, the ban impacted the likes of Boohoo, Pretty Little Thing, Asos and Shein, now the company will also be permanently banning Gap, Zara, Urban Outfitters, Uniqlo, Mango, Benetton, Bershka, Oysho and H&M, among others, from its platform.


Like the ban prior, the move comes ahead of Black Friday and contributes to Vestiaire’s three-year plan to counter unsustainable practices in fashion and ultimately remove all fast fashion brands from its offering.


The initiative sees Vestiaire work together with The Or Foundation, which works towards raising awareness around clothing waste, particularly in Ghana where a reported 15 million fashion items arrive at the Kantamanto market every week.


This latest move was announced in a letter on Vestiaire’s website from founders Fanny Moizant and Sophie Hersan, who said the reason behind launching the ban was down to hefty production and the rising amount of textile waste.


The letter stated: “Every year, the fashion industry produces 100 billion garments. Zara and H&M alone produce more than one billion garments per year.


“As we consume more and wear less, 92 million tons of textile waste is discarded on a yearly basis - most of it coming from fast fashion brands. This is enough to fill the Empire State Building every day, and has a major environmental and social impact.”


Vestiaire is instead urging people to “think first, buy second”, a movement that it is complementing with the introduction of a 400 euro voucher giveaway, available for customers to participate in through its social media site.


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EIDM to launch pop-up store dedicated to ‘sports and fashion’

Credits: International School of Fashion and Luxury (EIDM)



From 30 November, fashion school EIDM will be hosting a pop-up store run by its third year bachelor students.


Called "Hybris", the pop-up store will be devoted to the theme of "sport and fashion". In a press release, the EIDM students said: "When we talk about fashion and sport, we're no longer just talking about functional clothing, but a genuine expression of identity, personality and passion. Beyond aesthetics, fashion and sport share common values: perseverance, discipline, ambition and determination, all qualities shared by athletes and fashion designers alike".


The launch of the pop-up store will be accompanied by an evening event attended by the school's partners and invited guests. It will take place on Thursday November 30 2023 at 29 rue Keller in the 11th arrondissement of Paris. Clothing and accessories by several designers selected by the students will be presented and sold on 1 and 2 December.


EIDM offers state-recognised professional courses from bac+3 to bac+5 in fields such as fashion design, art direction, communications and marketing. The school has partnerships with 16 international universities and a large network of alumni from luxury brands such as Jean Paul Gaultier, Versace and Mugler.


This article was originally published on FashionUnited.FR. Translation and edit from French into English by Veerle Versteeg.


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The Body Shop sold to Aurelius for 207 million pounds

The Body Shop Bond Street store Credits: The Body Shop



Beauty


British ethical beauty brand The Body Shop has been sold by Brazilian beauty group Natura &Co to international private equity group Aurelius for 207 million pounds.


Natura &Co said the move to sell the retailer would allow the beauty group “to simplify and refocus its operations,” and allow it to accelerate the integration of the Natura and Avon brands in Latin America, focusing on its core relationship selling model and further optimising Avon International's footprint.


The Body Shop’s new owner Aurelius, which has experience in the retail sector through its investments in omni-channel fashion and sportswear retailer Footasylum, said it will work with the London-based beauty brand’s management team to help drive "operational excellence" across the business, leveraging its expertise and experience in the omnichannel retail and wholesale markets.


Aurelius added in a statement that it believes that, despite the challenging retail market, there is an opportunity to "re-energise" the business and enable it to take advantage of positive trends in the high-growth beauty market.


The Body Shop Body Butters Credits: The Body Shop



Aurelius acquires The Body Shop from Natura &Co




Ian Bickley, chief executive of The Body Shop, said: “Today, we celebrate a truly historic moment for The Body Shop as we join forces with Aurelius to begin a new chapter, allowing us to continue building the relevancy of this global brand for future generations. With a presence in over 80 countries, The Body Shop is not only a beauty brand, but also an iconic social business that has captured hearts in nearly every corner of the world.


“We are deeply grateful to Natura &Co for their unwavering support and I'm looking forward to working hand in hand with Aurelius as we adapt and flourish in new global retail environments, always with an eye on sustainable and profitable growth.”


The Body Shop, founded in 1976 by Anita Roddick, is headquartered in London and employs around 7,000 staff, and has operations in 89 markets with over 900 company-owned stores in 20 countries and partnerships with head franchisees who operate approximately 1,600 franchised stores in a further 69 geographies.


The brand’s key products include natural ingredient-based bath and body, skincare, fragrance, hair care, make-up and gifting.


Under Natura's ownership since 2017, The Body Shop has undergone an overhaul of its product portfolio and a rejuvenation of the brand, notably through a more contemporary redesign of its stores, with the ‘Changemaking Workshop’ that enhanced stores and customer experience worldwide, as well as the introduction of a refills service.


Refill station in The Body Shop Bond Street store Credits: The Body Shop



Commenting on the acquisition, Tristan Nagler, partner at Aurelius, added: “We are delighted to be undertaking this acquisition of an iconic British brand, which pioneered the cruelty-free and natural ingredient movement in the health and beauty market.


“We look forward to working with CEO Ian Bickley and his team to drive operational improvements and re-energise the business, and help to deliver the next chapter of success.”


The transaction is expected to close in December, subject to approval by the relevant competition and regulatory authorities. On top of the purchase price of 207 million pounds, Natura is also in line for a 90 million pounds "earn-out" from The Body Shop's revenues over the next five years.


Fabio Barbosa, chief executive officer of Natura &Co, said: "With the sale of The Body Shop, we are taking another important step in Natura &Co's new development cycle to unlock significant value. Refocused, deleveraged and leaner, Natura &Co will now be able to fully concentrate on its core relationship selling expertise in Latin America while also continuing the optimization of Avon International's footprint and investing in initiatives and innovations that positively impact people and the planet.


"We are pleased to have found a strong home for The Body Shop to write the next chapter in its remarkable story, and we extend our sincerest thanks to all The Body Shop's associates, who contributed immensely to broadening Natura &Co's horizons. We wish them continued success under the stewardship of Aurelius."


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Oiselle names Arielle Knutson as chief executive

Arielle Knutson, chief executive of Oiselle Credits: Oiselle



Women’s running brand Oiselle has appointed Arielle Knutson as its new chief executive.


Knutson, who has a background in active lifestyle, outdoors and consumer packaged goods brands, joins the female-led running brand from sports hydration brand Nuun, where she served as vice president of marketing.


She takes over from interim chief executive Atsuko Tamura, who served as president until mid-2022 when she stepped into the CEO role following founder Sally Bergesen's departure from Oiselle. Tamura will take on an advisory role with Oiselle and support Knutson “in developing a strategic growth plan for the women-led brand”.


Commenting on the appointment, Tamura said in a statement: "I am thrilled that Arielle is joining the team, particularly as she has been a part of the sisterhood as a customer and fan of Oiselle from the early days.


"Arielle brings a unique perspective from one of the industry's leading brands, and I know she'll be a driving force in elevating Oiselle's position, supporting our incredible Volée community, and ensuring that every Oiselle woman is celebrated for their progressive individuality and qualities."


In her new role, Knutson has been tasked with continuing to lead and grow the Oiselle brand, including building up and nurturing the Volée community, a commitment to women-specific running and active apparel, an elite and emerging talent pool as part of Haute Volée, and building on established retail partnerships, events and experiences for women in the run and active lifestyle spaces.


Knutson added: "I've been a huge fan of Oiselle ever since I put on my first pair of Distance Shorts in 2011 and am incredibly excited and honoured to be joining Oiselle as CEO. I found the brand while searching not just for the best running apparel but also for a running community, and I'm still part of the community that I found back then. I am thrilled to help lead the brand into this next chapter of growth."


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Louis Vuitton's one million dollar hand bag is beyond aspirational luxury

Opinion


Louis Vuitton SS24 menswear show Credits: Courtesy Louis Vuitton



In the rarefied world of luxury fashion, where price tags often flirt with excess, Louis Vuitton's latest creation has raised eyebrows and set tongues wagging. Enter the Millionaire Speedy, a yellow-hued handbag that found its debut gracing the arm of Pharrell Williams, the brand's newly anointed artistic director of menswear. However, what has captivated attention isn't just its luminescent design but the staggering one million-dollar price tag that accompanies it, positioning it somewhere between aspirational and the stratospheric ridiculous.


The ostentatious accessory, more reminiscent perhaps of a portfolio typically associated with the likes of Philipp Plein, features clunky yellow gold hardware and a logo clasp - its flamboyant pièce de résistance - adorned with diamonds. Crafted from what is said to be the finest crocodile leather, each bag is made to order.


The Millionaire Speedy is not merely a fashion statement, it is a proclamation of excess and wealth. An Instagram screenshot was first revealed by NBA star PJ Tucker, which shows the bag is available in four colourways, yellow crocodile, marron, blue, green, and red.


In a world where luxury often equates to exclusivity and opulence, the notion of a million-dollar handbag may seem like the epitome of high-end fashion. However, beyond the shimmering facade there exists a growing sentiment that such exorbitant price tags not only border on the absurd but also exude an air of tackiness rather than genuine aspiration.


The essence of luxury has traditionally been intertwined with rarity, craftsmanship, and a sense of exclusivity that transcends the ordinary. Yet, a handbag boasting a million-dollar price tag strays from this ethos, entering a realm where ostentation overshadows elegance.


Disconnect from craftsmanship




A handbag's value is often associated with the artistry and craftsmanship invested in its creation. However, when the price skyrockets to a million dollars, the focus shifts from intricate detailing to the sheer cost of materials and brand prestige. This disconnect from the art of crafting luxury accessories undermines the very foundation of what makes a bag truly aspirational.


Unwarranted pricing




While luxury items are expected to command a higher price due to superior materials and craftsmanship, there comes a point where the price no longer aligns with the intrinsic value of the item. This unwarranted price inflation contributes to the perception of tackiness, as it appears to be more about flaunting wealth than appreciating genuine luxury.


Modern consumers, especially younger generations, are increasingly prioritising authenticity, sustainability, and meaningful experiences over conspicuous consumption. Expensive handbags, seen as a symbol of excess and unnecessary extravagance, clashes with these evolving consumer values. As aspirations shift towards more purposeful spending, such ostentatious displays of wealth become less appealing.


A handbag's primary purpose is functionality, serving as a practical accessory for everyday life. However, the hyper-inflated price of a million-dollar handbag renders it impractical for daily use, unless it came with its own body guard. This lack of functionality further reinforces the perception that the item exists solely for show.


Pharrell Williams Credits: Louis Vuitton


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Giles Wilson to join Dr. Martens as CFO in 2024

Credits: Image: Giles Wilson via Dr. Martens



Dr. Martens plc has announced the appointment of Giles Wilson to the role of chief financial officer (CFO).


Wilson, the company said, will join Dr. Martens in 2024, with the date to be confirmed and announced in due course. The company added that Jon Mortimore, who is retiring from the company, has agreed to stay with the business until the end of the financial year.


Commenting on Wilson’s appointment as new CFO, Paul Mason, the company’s chair, said in a statement: “Giles is a very capable finance leader with extensive experience in a number of sectors, and, most recently, his time in the branded spirits industry has given him a good grounding in global brands and wholesale distribution management. His knowledge of the public markets will be a valuable asset to the team as Dr. Martens continues its growth in the listed environment.”


Wilson joins Dr. Martens from William Grant & Sons Limited, one of the largest global spirits companies, owners of premium brands including Glenfiddich Scotch Whisky, The Balvenie Whisky and Hendrick’s Gin.


“Giles brings a range of complementary skills and past experience that is highly relevant to our brand-first strategy. I am looking forward to working with him on the next phase of Dr. Martens’ journey to become a 2 billion pounds revenue footwear brand,” added Kenny Wilson, Dr. Martens CEO.


Prior to this, Wilson was at John Menzies plc as CFO from 2016 to 2020 and then CEO from 2019 to 2020. He qualified as a chartered accountant with PwC and previously held a senior role at Commercial Estates Group.


Commenting on his new role, Giles Wilson said: “I am excited to be joining at such an important stage in the company’s growth and I am looking forward to working with Kenny and the team to drive the strategy forward.”


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Joe Browns names Michael Truluck as chairman

Michael Truluck, chairman of Joe Browns Credits: Joe Browns



Leeds-based fashion and home retailer Joe Browns has named Michael Truluck as chairman, with immediate effect.


The appointment marks Truluck’s first chair position after recently leaving his role as chief executive of La Redoute International to spend more time with his family in Yorkshire and to build a non-exec portfolio.


Commenting on the appointment, Simon Brown, founder of Joe Browns, said in a statement: “When I learned Michael was looking for a non-exec role, I was keen to meet with him and discuss the vision for Joe Browns future, and establish if he shared a similar excitement for our opportunities.


“It’s safe to say he could see the wealth of potential in our unique offering and I’m excited to have him along for the journey.”


Truluck joins Joe Browns in its 25th anniversary year, where the retailer announced plans to open ten new stores by December 2024 and completed a 2-million-pound warehouse extension to support growth ambitions and increase pick face capacity. It also opened a new franchise-operated store in Bowness in June and went on TV for the first time with autumn/winter and Christmas TV advertising.


On joining the retailer, Truluck added: “I join at probably the most exciting time in the brand's 25-year history. With a unique and confident approach to remarkable products across womenswear, menswear and home it means Joe Browns really stands out in the market - something that has been evident by the growth delivered by Simon, Peter and the team.”


“With a great leadership team in place, I look forward to supporting them by ensuring that Joe Browns is seen and loved by more customers than ever before. Be it through stores, an even stronger online experience or third-party partnerships – and from what I have seen already it’s all to play for from a really firm foundation.”


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Pleasing brand unveils ‘world of fragrance’ at Selfridges

Pleasing fragrance - Bright Hot Credits: Pleasing



Beauty


Beauty and lifestyle brand Pleasing, founded by singer and actor Harry Styles, has unveiled its debut fragrance collection at The Corner Shop at Selfridges on London’s Oxford Street.


The launch marks the beauty brand’s debut fragrance offering as well as its first-ever global retail partnership, with Selfridges showcasing the scents with a space centred around customers sampling and learning about Pleasing’s latest launch.


The concession features a vintage-style beauty counter and a trio of ticket booths, where customers collect a free, collectable "ticket" at the booths, spritzed individually with the tickets’ correlating fragrances. These tickets not only provide a scented experience but are printed on archival paper to serve as “physical keepsakes”.


Pleasing fragrance - Rivulets Credits: Pleasing



The fragrance collection features three gender-neutral scents created in collaboration with esteemed fragrance house Robertet to embody “simplicity, innovation, creativity, and beauty”.


Fragrances include ‘Bright Hot,’ a heady, woody amber scent, alongside the floral, fresh amber notes of ‘Rivulets,’ and ‘Closeness’ described as a woody musk. Each scent is vegan, cruelty-free and made without parabens or phthalates, and is presented in a glass bottle to make recycling easier.


The trio of Pleasing fragrances, priced at 135 pounds each, are on offer alongside a range of new and exclusive products for the Holiday season across nails, apparel, and accessories.


In addition, the Pleasing eau de parfums will be available on the brand’s website and in its own stores in New York and Los Angeles from November 16.


Pleasing fragrance - Closeness Credits: Pleasing


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Alo Yoga announces UK expansion with debut London flagship

Alo campaign image Credits: Alo



US athleisure brand Alo Yoga is expanding to the UK and opening its first flagship store on London’s King’s Road on November 17 as part of the brand’s retail growth strategy.


The opening marks the first of Alo’s bricks-and-mortar shops in the UK, with the Los Angeles-based brand planning to open two further freestanding stores across London in 2024.


This will include a flagship location on Regent Street, opening in summer 2024, which promises to be the “ultimate shopping experience,” complete with a gym and wellness club for Alo’s VIP customers.


Alo campaign image Credits: Alo Yoga



Additional openings in the capital include Brompton Road in autumn 2024, with the brand adding that further European expansion plans are “in the pipeline”.


Alo Yoga is opening on London’s King Road, followed by two additional stores in the UK next year




Danny Harris, co-founder and co-chief executive of Alo Yoga, said in a statement: "As a brand which supports wellbeing, Alo has a strong synergy with the cultured lifestyle enjoyed in the UK and Europe.


"There is an incredible yoga and fitness scene in London and we're looking forward to connecting with our community in Europe, through our first retail store opening on the iconic Kings Road. Our retail expansion model continues to focus on convenience, guest experience, and community as we introduce Alo to our newest markets."


Alo campaign image Credits: Alo Yoga



Established in 2007, Alo intersects fashion, function and fitness, offering studio-to-street performance apparel and accessories for men and women, from yoga clothing and activewear essentials to luxe loungewear, dresses, and trainers. It has also garnered several celebrity fans, including Kendal and Kylie Jenner, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Hailey Bieber, and Taylor Swift.


Alo’s debut UK store will open at 33 King’s Road, London, on November 17.


Alo campaign image Credits: Alo Yoga


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Puma teams up with Trophy Hunting on new capsule collection

Puma x Trophy Hunting collection Credits: Puma



In Pictures


Sportswear brand Puma has unveiled a unisex “Bronx-meets-Ivy” collegiate-inspired capsule collection with Black, AAPI, and Latinx-owned brand Trophy Hunting.


The Puma x Trophy Hunting capsule collection, co-designed by the American sportswear brand designers Dustin Canalin and Kari Cruz, offers a modern vision of prep with a range of apparel and footwear inspired by school uniforms Cruz wore in her Bronx youth.


The collection features a forest green varsity jacket, a prep school classic made in luxe satin, which is fully reversible and lined in a luxe faux-fur Duck Camo print. This sits alongside a reversible zip track jacket and T-shirts, as well as biker shorts and leggings made in Puma’s Drycell fabric.


Puma x Trophy Hunting collection Credits: Puma



The capsule also includes a heavyweight mesh performance skirt, a mashup of a private school uniform and traditional basketball shorts, in a Blackwatch plaid, a Trophy Hunting signature.


Trophy Hunting has also reinterpreted three Puma footwear styles bringing prep inspiration to Puma’s basketball models: The Clyde All-Pro, The Slipstream and The Suede, redesigning them in leather and suedes to “create a new everyday luxury silhouette”.


Puma x Trophy Hunting collection Credits: Puma



Commenting on the collaboration, Kari Cruz from Trophy Hunting, said in a statement: "As a Dominican-American, NYC-raised woman, my creative work often pulls from my roots and upbringing in The Bronx. For over a decade I have worked extensively on men’s streetwear and basketball brands- and there’s always been an erasure of women’s design and creative contributions.


“This collection is an extremely personal and intentional effort to show that we’ve always existed in these spaces and won’t be written out of the story. It’s my love letter to the girls 'from around the way' who won’t be excluded from the rooms they’re not typically invited into."


Puma x Trophy Hunting collection Credits: Puma



Dustin Canalin from Trophy Hunting added: "The vision was to craft a versatile collection that exudes timeless elegance while effortlessly adapting to the rhythms of daily life. Rooted in high velocity lifestyles & Puma's hip-hop heritage, this collaboration seamlessly uses Trophy Hunting's deliberate design philosophy to empower you to experiment with fashion and redefine your everyday style effortlessly."


The Puma x Trophy Hunting collection is available on puma.com and alwaystrophyhunting.com. Prices retail from 96 to 196 US dollars.


Puma x Trophy Hunting collection Credits: Puma



Puma x Trophy Hunting collection Credits: Puma



Puma x Trophy Hunting collection Credits: Puma



Puma x Trophy Hunting collection Credits: Puma



Puma x Trophy Hunting collection Credits: Puma


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Conner Ives launches upcycled capsule collection on Depop

Conner Ives x Depop collection Credits: Depop



In Pictures


Emerging fashion designer Conner Ives has launched his own Depop shop with an exclusive capsule collection of upcycled accessories and clothing.


The limited-edition collection, designed and produced in London, is exclusive to the fashion resale platform and includes a two-piece T-shirt and skirt set featuring hand-drawn motifs alongside bracelets and necklaces made with Murano glass beads and pendants.


Conner Ives x Depop collection Credits: Depop



Commenting on the collaboration, Ives said in a statement: “With all my work, I aim to confront the fast fashion cycle head-on - returning to the craft and the concept of making clothes with friends, for friends.


“As a lover and advocate of circular fashion, I’m so proud to launch my exclusive RTW Depop capsule collection, offering fashion fans a taste of Conner Ives and making truly circular garments a bit more accessible.”


The launch is part of a wider collaboration between the London Fashion Week designer and Depop to bring upcycled, exclusive pieces to the platform’s fashion-conscious users and show that what’s old can be made new again.


Conner Ives x Depop collection Credits: Depop



Steve Dool, director of brand and marketing at Depop, added: ‘Young designers are a critical part of fashion’s future, and we’re so excited to partner with Conner Ives to bring unique circular fashion to our community.


“Making circular fashion more accessible is at the core of what we do at Depop, and we hope through this collaboration we can reach and inspire more people to look to different fashion options that are kinder to the planet.”


The Conner Ives x Depop collection is available now on the platform, with prices starting at 55 pounds.


Conner Ives x Depop collection Credits: Depop



Conner Ives x Depop collection Credits: Depop



Conner Ives x Depop collection Credits: Depop


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Fashionphile acquires LXRandCo. to expanding to B2B wholesale

Credits: Fashionphile, Facebook



San Diego-based luxury resale platform Fashionphile, which specialises in pre-owned, ultra-luxury accessories, is expanding into business-to-business wholesale after acquiring Canadian pre-owned luxury omnichannel retailer LXRandCo. (LXR).


In a statement, Fashionphile said it has acquired the inventory, intellectual property assets, including domains, and other intangible assets of LXR Luxury Products International Inc., Groupe Global LXR Inc., and LXR Canada Inc., which are the operating subsidiaries of LXRandCO, Inc.
The Montreal-based omnichannel retailer of authenticated, pre-owned luxury accessories filed for bankruptcy in Canada earlier this month.


LXR, which launched in 2010, curates, sources and authenticates high-quality, pre-owned products from luxury brands, such as Hermès, Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Prada and Chanel, and sells them directly to customers through their website and indirectly by powering the e-commerce and other platforms of key channel partners, including wholesale activities with select retail partners across North America.


Fashionphile said the acquisition would facilitate its ability to “diversify its selling channels beyond direct-to-consumer, elevated circular retail experiences and clienteling and expand into B2B wholesale and new omnichannel operations”.


Ben Hemminger, co-founder and chief executive of Fashionphile, said: "With this acquisition, we are excited to forge a new path in wholesale and provide trusted, authenticated, branded accessories to even more sectors of the growing second-hand market.


"LXR has been a pioneer and longtime leader in B2B wholesale within the pre-owned luxury space. As we aim to maintain our position as the most sought-after brand for buying and selling pre-owned, ultra-luxury accessories, it is paramount that we participate and invest in all possible retail channels that touch re-commerce in the modern retail landscape."


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835 brands to show at Pitti Uomo 105

Windsor exhibitor at Pitti Uomo Credits: FashionUnited



The upcoming winter edition of Pitti Uomo, its 105th instalment, is set to host 835 brands at the Fortezza da Basso in Florence this January. Notable designers like Luca Magliano, Steven Stokey-Daley, and Todd Snyder are expected to be among the highlights of the event.


Of the 835 brands participating, a significant 43 percent are foreign companies. The format of the event is undergoing a renewal, with a layout designed to emphasize individual sections, a spotlight on vintage and the world of pets, and an expansion of international collaborations, marked by the introduction of Neudeutsch—a pioneering project focusing on new wave design from Germany.


Raffaello Napoleone, CEO of Pitti Immagine, emphasised the significance of Pitti Uomo as a crucial platform for discussions, solidifying Florence's leadership in fashion events. Napoleone stated, "Pitti Uomo offers the possibility of a unique overview of the new collections and of obtaining useful feedback on the performance of the markets and the main creative scenes."


The theme for the winter fairs is 'PittiTime,' reflecting the temporal rhythm inherent in Pitti Uomo's seasonal presentations. Agostino Poletto, the general director of Pitti Immagine, noted the fashion industry's reflection of time, oscillating between accelerated collections and timeless pieces that define the quiet luxury of enduring garments.


In the context of Italian men's fashion, the first three quarters of 2023 witnessed growth. Istat data revealed a double-digit increase of 11.4 percent in exports from January to July 2023, totaling approximately 5.4 billion euros. Imports also saw a 5.6 percent rise, nearly reaching four billion euros. Commercial outlets in both the EU and non-EU areas experienced positive growth, with increases of 13.1 percent and ten percent, respectively.


Breaking down the trade by product, shirt exports showed an exceptional performance with a growth of 24.1 percent compared to the same period in 2022. Ties recorded a robust increase of 22.1 percent, and ready-made clothing saw growth of 16.5 percent. Knitwear exports, although slightly below the sector average, saw an increase of 4.8 percent. Sales of leather clothing bucked the trend, seeing a slowdown that saw sales exports fall -8.8 percent.


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Celtic & Co. launches resole, repair, resale and recycle service

Celtic & Co. craftsmanship Credits: Celtic & Co.



Sustainable fashion brand Celtic & Co. is rolling out its in-house circular service that resoles, repairs, resells and recycles customers' products following a soft launch in September.


The initiative aims to prolong the life of its customers' products by providing a sustainable alternative to sending their pre-loved clothing and footwear to landfill.


The service has been achievable following an expansion of Celtic & Co.’s manufacturing capabilities at its own factory in Newquay, where its sheepskin boots and slippers have been handcrafted since 1990, to include repair as well as resole.


Zoe Bray, managing director at Celtic & Co., said in a statement: “Our sheepskin boots are designed to stand the test of time; made from the finest quality, British sheepskin and finished with a hard-wearing rubber sole, but they can begin to look a little loved after a few winters.


“Through our resole and repair service, we can restore your boots by replacing the sole, heel and toe panels, giving them a brand-new lease of life, which is something we’ve always offered. We now also offer repairs to holes, tears, and buttons on our woven and knitwear garments, which is all done by the team in our own factory here in Cornwall.”


The new resale service run directly through the Celtic & Co. website offers customers the opportunity to shop for preloved Celtic garments. Additionally, customers can also send in their Celtic garments in exchange for a voucher or discount off their next purchase for sheepskin coat customers exclusively.


Items that don't meet the quality control requirements for the resale scheme are donated to Royal Trinity Hospice for them to resell in its charity shops.


Bray added: "The final recycle part of our new initiative is something I’m really excited about. We can now transform much-loved knitwear into a pair of Recycled Celtic Knitwear Mules.


"This one-of-a-kind bespoke service is completely unique to Celtic & Co., and something I’m expecting to be popular for gifting particularly around Christmas time."


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Geox manages to increase sales in a 'complex macroeconomic situation'

Credits: Image: Geox store, Marina Mall, Dubai



Italian footwear player Geox sales for the first nine months of 2023 amounted to 582 million euros, up 2.3 percent or up 4.1 percent at constant exchange due to the positive performance of the multibrand channel partially mitigated by the negative performance of the DOS channel.


The company said in a statement that the third quarter results were in line with the previous year with sales reaching 228.4 million euros, up 4.1 percent at constant exchange rates.


Commenting on the company’s trading performance, Mario Moretti Polegato, founder and president of Geox said: The year 2023 looks like a year of stabilisation and moderate growth after the strong increases recorded in the previous two years. The result gains more value considering that it was achieved in a complex macroeconomic situation characterised by strong geopolitical tensions, high interest and inflation rates that induce strong concerns and cautious consumption.”


Highlights of Geox’s nine month results




The company’s wholesales, which accounted for 55.7 percent of group sales, amounted to 324.4 million euros, up 8.2 percent at current exchange and up 10.2 percent at constant exchange rates benefitting from a positive order collection for the SS23 and FW23.


The company added that the franchising channel sales, equal to 8.4 percent of group sales, amounted to 48.7 million euros, up 0.8 percent with the performance getting affected by a reduction in the number of stores compared to September 2022 and on the other hand benefitting from a favourable timing effect on shipments. The total number of franchised shops decreased from 294 shops in September 2022 to 282 in September 2023.


Directly-operated stores (DOS) sales, which account for 35.9 percent of group sales, amounted to 208.9 million euros, down 5.5 percent at current exchange rates and down 3.6 percent at constant exchange rates. Comparable sales (LFL) rose 1.6 percent with physical shops reporting comparable sales growth of about 2.7 percent, while the online channel showed a decline of 3 percent. However, the growth of the direct online channel was about 50.2 percent compared to 2019.


The number of DOS decreased from 318 shops in September 2022 to 261 in September 2023.


Geox posts positive performance across markets




Sales generated in Italy, which represents 27.3 percent of the group's sales, amounted to 158.9 million euros, up 6 percent driven mainly by the wholesale channel, up 22 percent, partly mitigated by the negative performance of the franchising channel, down 4.6 percent and the direct store network, down 2 percent.


Sales generated in Europe, equal to 42.4 percent of group sales, amounted to 246.9 million euros, a decrease of 5.2 percent driven by the negative performance achieved in the German market and the multibrand channel. DOS in Europe reported comparable sales up 1.8 percent and the performance of the franchising channel was slightly positive by 1 percent.


North America reported sales of 21.3 million euros, down 8.5 percent or down 3.8 percent at constant exchange rates. Geox said that the positive results of the multibrand channel, up 4.4 percent, were more than offset by the lower result achieved by the direct store network, down 16.8 percent due to a lower number of stores.


Other countries reported sales growth of 14.3 percent or 22.3 percent at constant exchange rates. Particularly in the Asia Pacific region, sales were up due to the good performance achieved by both the multibrand channel, up 12.4 percent and the direct store network, up 9 percent. Positive performance was also reported in the "Other Countries" area, up 15.1 percent.


Footwear accounted for 90.4 percent of consolidated sales, amounting to 526.4 million euros, up 1.7 percent or 3.4 percent at constant exchange rates. Apparel accounted for 9.6 percent of consolidated sales, amounting to 55.6 million euros, up 7.8 percent at current exchange and 11.6 percent at constant exchange rates.


Total number of Geox shops was 656 of which 261 DOS at the end of the period under review. During the first nine months of 2023, 30 new Geox Shops were opened and 91 were closed.


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Dillard’s posts decline in Q3 sales and earnings

Credits: Image: Dillard's in Fairview, Texas. Image credit: Wikiwand, ShareAlike



Dillard’s, Inc. net income decreased to 155.3 million dollars or 9.49 dollars per share for the third quarter.


Net sales for the quarter declined to 1.476 billion dollars, while retail sales decreased 6 percent to 1.409 billion dollars. Sales in comparable stores also decreased 6 percent.


The company attributed a challenging sales environment during the quarter with particular weakness beginning in September for the sales decline. Dillard’s said in a statement that cosmetics was the strongest performing category followed by home and furniture. Juniors’ and children’s apparel was the weakest category.


Commenting on the company’s third quarter results, Dillard’s chief executive officer William T. Dillard, II stated: “The sales environment remained challenging in the third quarter with particular weakness beginning in September. Our focus on producing profitable sales with inventory control paid off - with a retail gross margin of 45.3 percent and inventory down 1 percent year over year.”


For the 39 weeks total retail sales decreased 5 percent and comparable store sales decreased 4 percent.


Net income declined to 488.3 million dollars, while earnings per share dropped to 29.38 dollars and retail gross margin decreased to 43.7 percent.


Dillard’s closed its MacArthur Center location in Norfolk, Virginia during the third quarter. The company operates 273 Dillard’s stores, including 27 clearance centres, spanning 29 states and an Internet store.


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