Podcast: The Glossy Podcast interviews LVMH’s Karin Raguin

In this episode, The Glossy Podcast interviews the vice president of talent management and corporate responsibility at LVMH North America, Karin Raguin. She discussed how 2020 has enforced transparency, how to attract diverse talent and building towards gender equality. Listen to the podcast below. Source: The Glossy Podcast via Megaphone
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RYU Apparel appoints Rob Blair as chief operating officer

Canadian athletic apparel brand RYU Apparel Inc has appointed Rob Blair as its new chief operating officer. Blair brings with him nearly two decades of experience at global fashion companies including Lululemon, Nike and Gap. “2020 was a difficult year for many businesses due to the pandemic. However, there are very positive tailwinds and market momentum in e-commerce, athletic and athleisure apparel, and RYU is an award-winning brand with great potential,” Blair said in a statement. “Together, I am confident, we can grow the business into a significant player in the athletic apparel segment." Photo credit: RYU Apparel
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Shanghai Fashion Week to postpone event to mid April

Amidst a growing rise of coronavirus infections in China, Shanghai Fashion Week has reportedly postponed its March event to mid April. Organisers have yet to make a formal announcement via its official website and social channels, however multiple media reports suggest brands are pulling out of trade fair events with current travel restrictions and rising Covid cases. Domestic Chinese New Year events are also on a low burner, much of which will be aired digitally. The new year festival is a key time in the Chinese calendar for citizens to travel abroad and shop. This year, however, will see little international movement or tourism as borders remain closed. Last month UBS analysts warned of a potential drop in spending in China: “Should the country fail to contain the spread of the virus, new lockdowns cannot be ruled out, which could have a far bigger impact on sales than travel restrictions alone,” it said in a trading note.
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H&M reports drop in full year sales and profit

The H&M group’s net sales amounted to 187,031 million Swedish krona in the 2020 financial year. In local currencies, net sales decreased by 18 percent. The company said, sales development was significantly negatively affected by the pandemic, particularly in the second quarter when stores were temporarily closed in most markets; at the most, approximately 80 percent of the group’s stores were closed. Gross profit amounted to 93,544 million Swedish krona, corresponding to a gross margin of 50 percent. Profit amounted to 2,052 million Swedish krona, while profit after financial items amounted to 1,691 million Swedish krona. The group’s profit after tax amounted to 1,243 million Swedish krona, corresponding to 0.75 Swedish krona per share. “The H&M group stands strong after all the challenges brought by the pandemic. Thanks to much-appreciated collections, rapid and profitable online growth and strict cost control, the company succeeded in ending the year in profit and in a strong financial position,” said Helena Helmersson, H&M CEO in a statement. H&M posts 10 percent drop in Q4 sales In the fourth quarter, the company reported net sales of 52,549 million Swedish krona, corresponding to a 10 percent decrease in local currencies. The company added that a strong recovery at the start of the quarter was significantly slowed when the second wave of the pandemic again led to extensive new restrictions and lockdowns. Gross profit for the quarter amounted to 27,375 million Swedish krona, which corresponds to a gross margin of 52.1 percent. Profit after financial items amounted to 3,665 million Swedish krona, while profit after financial items amounted to 3,538 million Swedish krona. The group’s profit after tax amounted to 2,485 million Swedish krona, corresponding to 1.50 Swedish krona per share. As a result of the second wave of the pandemic and the associated restrictions and temporary closure of, at the most, more than 1,800 stores, i.e. 36 percent of the group’s total of around 5,000 stores, net sales decreased by 23 percent in local currencies in the period December 1, 2020 to January 27, 2021 compared with the same period the previous year. The company further said that online and physical stores are being increasingly integrated, with continued optimisation of the store portfolio. Around 100 new stores are planned to open in 2021, while 350 stores are planned to close in the same period - mainly in established markets. Picture:H&M media gallery
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Video: MSGM FW21 menswear collection

In this video, MSGM has presented its FW21 menswear collection at Milan Fashion Week. Watch the video below. Do you want to see more FW21 clothing collections? Click here to view the FashionUnited Marketplace. Video: Fashion Feed via YouTube Photo credit: Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, Facebook
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VF Corp reports 6 percent drop in Q3 revenues to 3 billion dollars

Third quarter revenue at VF Corporation decreased 6 percent or 8 percent in constant dollars to 3 billion dollars driven by store closures and lower consumer demand as a result of the Covid-19 outbreak and related government actions and regulations. VF said, gross margin decreased 250 basis points to 54.7 percent and on an adjusted basis, gross margin decreased 150 basis points to 55.7 percent. Operating income for the quarter on a reported basis was 412 million dollars and on an adjusted basis, operating income was 458 million dollars, while operating margin was 13.9 percent and adjusted operating margin was 15.4 percent. The company’s earnings per share were 83 cents on a reported basis and 93 cents on an adjusted basis. “Our third quarter results were largely ahead of expectations despite the impact of additional Covid-19-related disruption to our business,” said Steve Rendle, VF’s Chairman, President and CEO in a statement, adding, “Our portfolio remains on track to return to growth in the fiscal fourth quarter and we are confident in VF’s plans to accelerate growth into fiscal 2022.” VF raises full year outlook For the fiscal year 2021, VF said, revenue is now expected to be in the range of 9.1 billion dollars to 9.2 billion dollars, reflecting a decrease of 12 percent to 13 percent on an adjusted basis. The updated outlook includes approximately 125 million dollars of revenue from the Supreme brand. This compares to the previous expectation of at least 9 billion dollars, reflecting a decrease of approximately 14 percent on an adjusted basis. Adjusted earnings per share are expected to be approximately 1.30 dollars, reflecting a decrease of approximately 51 percent. The updated outlook includes approximately 5 cents of adjusted earnings per share from the Supreme brand. This compares to the previous expectation of at least 1.20 dollars, reflecting a decrease of approximately 55 percent. VF’s board of directors declared a quarterly dividend of 49 cents per share, payable on March 22, 2021, to shareholders of record on March 10, 2021. Picture:Facebook/The North Face
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The top five menswear looks of FW21

The fall menswear digital runway shows and formats have come to an end and FashionUnited dissects five key looks for the upcoming season. The Statement knit Bold colours and interesting patterns are essential to statement knitwear, and was embraced by several designers for their FW21 collections. Those who delivered exciting novelty to the category went for all-out design, proposing directional sweaters that are playful, stand-out and anything but subtle. At Jil Sander, a brown and candy-apple red chunky knit summed up the look: bold, retro and comfortable. At JW Anderson a pansy-patterned cardigan was a joyful vision to behold, complete with matching shorts. The Leisure Suit Lemaire, FW21 Stiff, constructed suiting, has along with formalwear, been banished to the back of wardrobes everywhere. A softer, more relaxed tailored version has taken its place, with tactile materials and a focus on casual and comfort. Noone does it better than Lemaire, where layers of earthtones in soft cottons and wools mix workwear with homewear, pared-down and with enough sophistication for indoor and outdoor. Roomy cuts make these pieces liveable with just enough slouch and structure to adapt to any situation. The Fashion Buy Louis Vuittin, FW21 Every season brings with it garments instantly recognisable for its design, marking a moment in time that elevates fashion to the ‘must-have’ qualities to purchase. These can be anything from unusual accessories to the aesthetic values of catwalk separates that compel fashion lovers to spend or at least justify their purchase. Prada’s FW21 long johns or leather bomber jackets spring to mind, as do Louis Vuitton’s chunky colourful belts and Dior’s collaboration with Scottish artist Peter Doig. The iPhone necklace at Fendi cements the tiny bag craze to menswear. The Urban Cowboy Y Project, FW21 Y/Project creative director Glenn Martens is something of a denim afficionado and his urban cowboy references for FW21 have made us fall in love with jeans all over again. Take away the decorative and you are left with modern-day layered chaps, a cowboy-boot embroidered jean and lots of dreamy western references that we will want to wear as soon as we can leave the house. Return of the Mac Or in this case the Mackintosh and trenchcoat, a staple outerwear piece seen across the FW21 collections. At Louis Vuitton the trench was roomy and oversized, at Dries van Noten a classic gabardine coat was cut modern military style. At Ermenegildo Zegna a single-breasted version suggests business as usual, making it wise to invest in a trusted, timeless coat that will see you through for years to come. Homepage image: Jil Sander, FW21. All images by Catwalk Pictures For Menswear FW21 fashion brands, go to the Menswear directory For Menswear FW21 collections, go to the Menswear section on the Marketplace
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Video: Y/Project’s FW21 collection

In this video, French fashion label Y/Project has shown its FW21 collection in a digital format at Paris Fashion Week. The models weave their way through each other with a geometric choreography as they follow the arrows on the floor. Watch the video below. Do you want to see more FW21 clothing collections? Click here to view the FashionUnited Marketplace. Source: FF Channel via YouTube
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Chanel looks to wedding parties for spring haute couture

For spring/summer 2021 haute couture, Chanel’s Virginie Viard was inspired by wedding parties and the spirit of family. Explaining her vision for the collection, Chanel’s creative director Viard said in the show notes: "I knew we couldn't organise a big show, that we would have to invent something else, so I came up with the idea of a small cortege that would come down the stairs of the Grand Palais and pass beneath arches of flowers. Like a family celebration, a wedding. "I love big family reunions when the generations all come together. It's so warm. There’s this spirit at Chanel today. Because Chanel is also like a family." Chanel’s grand wedding party took place in Grand Palais in Paris with a circular catwalk featuring flowered arches, festoon lighting, petals scattered everywhere, and a giant marquee. While other fashion houses have showcased their couture collections with no audiences, Chanel decided to unveil theirs in front of a select few brand ambassadors like Marion Cotillard, Penélope Cruz, Vanessa Paradis and her daughter, Lily-Rose Depp. All were socially-distanced around the catwalk sat on gilded chairs on wooden floorboards. Chanel decided to bring a fun, upbeat energy to a coronavirus hit couture week with a party atmosphere from the start, sending the models all down at once down the curved stairs of the grand building, before highlighting each individual look. Chanel threw a wedding party for spring/summer 2021 couture show Regarding the clothes, Viard said: “I'm always thinking about what women would like to have in their wardrobe today,” and that it seems is ruffled petticoat skirts, black tweed dresses, tulle gowns, feather embellishments, demure white blouses, lace made of daisies, trouser suits and jackets inspired by men's waistcoats. All of which were sent down the catwalk with two-tone Mary-Jane shoes with a double strap in the style of the shoes worn by tango dancers, or booties with wedge heels decorated with a fine golden quilt-like grid. Each piece from the collection was inspired by the idea of dance, of freedom and of summer evening parties, which we all will be back this year. Of course, it wouldn’t be a Chanel haute couture collection without the bride finale, which this season came out on horseback. The bride looked like she had stepped out of a 1920s photo, with a long gown and train made from ecru satin crêpe, embroidered by Lesage with strass and pearl butterflies, with a wing collar, shirt cuffs and covered buttons. Beautifully worn with a crystal-embellished long veil that sparkled in the light and white cowboy boots. Chanel also highlighted its collaborations with its Maisons d'Art craft workshops for the 32-piece collection, explaining that the Montex Atelier made the embroidered macramé of a long dress in pearl grey tulle while delicate feathers by the House of Lemarié embellish the organza flounces of a little dress in black tweed. While the collection might have been lighthearted and elegant with a distinct vision, there was still one glaring thing - there was no diversity on display. Once again, Chanel opted to cast all-white models for a collection all about family. "> Images: courtesy of Chanel by Anton Corbijn
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Video: Hermès fall/winter 2021 menswear collection

In this video, french fashion label Hermès has presented its FW21 menswear collection. The collection was made with the intention of committing to reconnect with the movement of the world and the use of lines and colours in the range are there to embody a source of energy. Watch the video below. Do you want to see more FW21 clothing collections? Click here to view the FashionUnited Marketplace. Source: Hermès via YouTube
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Video: Hermès fall/winter 2021 menswear collection

In this video, french fashion label Hermès has presented its FW21 menswear collection. The collection was made with the intention of committing to reconnect with the movement of the world and the use of lines and colours in the range are there to embody a source of energy. Watch the video below. Do you want to see more FW21 clothing collections? Click here to view the FashionUnited Marketplace. Source: Hermès via YouTube
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Swati Kalsi, High Art Fashion

Swati Kalsi, based in India, is known as much for her fashion designs as her museum art installations. Due to the high level of craftsmanship and artistry, Sass Brown points out that much of what Swati does doesn’t come cheap, adding “she’s known first and foremost for these exquisite, museum quality collectors items. They are indeed intended to be worn, but they’re so precious. In many cases, I think people end up putting them on their wall.” Hear more about this enchanting fashion brand by listening to the podcast here:
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At the Intersection of Art, Fashion and Craft

Each month Sass Brown, an expert in ethical fashion, sustainability and craftsmanship, shares a fashion brand that approaches business differently and innovatively or operates outside of the main fashion systems and capitals. Sass is the former Dean of Art and Design at the Fashion Institute of Technology and the founding Dean at Dubai Institute of Design and Innovation. You can also listen to this story. For the full podcast with Sass Brown featuring Swati Kalsi please click here. Swati Kalsi, based in India, is known as much for her fashion designs as her museum art installations. “Swati works predominantly with traditional Sujani embroiderers out of Bihar in India, who have a long tradition of embroidery, mostly for home wares.” states Sass. “Their work is often pictorial and often tells the community history; it’s the women’s tradition of embroidery.” Due to the high level of craftsmanship and artistry, Sass points out that much of what Swati does doesn’t come cheap, adding “she’s known first and foremost for these exquisite, museum quality collectors items. They are indeed intended to be worn, but they’re so precious. In many cases, I think people end up putting them on their wall.” To achieve this level of design within her collection, Swati works has workshops in Bihar where she collaborates with Sujani artisans in a collective, creative process. According to Sass, “Swati comes to them with some initial ideas and thoughts and theming, and works with them as they free form embroider, on the fabrications that she has brought in.” And much of their focus is on fairly unstructured outerwear or over pieces—much like kimonos—that aren’t gender or size specific. Sass continues, “they take days and days to produce, with as many as fifteen artisans working on a single piece. Hence, why they’re considered museum quality and collectors items.” In addition to these really high end art pieces, she has a little bit more of a traditional, ready-to-wear line, similar to other designers. Sass emphasizes, “There are only so many people that can afford her artisan-intense pieces. So, she does a ready-to-wear collection, which does involve some artisanship, such as block printing, hand weaving and even some Sujani embroidery, most of which is produced out of her studio store in Delhi.” Over the past several years, European luxury brands have relied on Indian craftsmanship to support their own couture collections, as these skills are disappearing on the continent. And yet this fact is often not shared with customers. Sass stresses, ”I think that’s where we have a massive disconnect. You have LVMH who’s bought the French métiers d’art, to help continue those traditions of luxury craftsmanship. Nevertheless, those same luxury brands produce with these artisans predominantly in India.” She continues, “the future of luxury artisanship is in India, where they retain this incredible breadth of traditional craftsmanship and artisanship that is sought after, even if it’s not always paid for fairly. And I think that we have a lot to learn about working with artisans around the world, like Swati Kalsi, as we do with artisans in France or Italy and other Western locations.” To learn more about Swati Kalsi, you can visit their website, Swatikalsi.com or visit their studio store in Delhi.
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Haute Couture Week kicks off digitally in Paris

While Covid-19 has forced Haute Couture Week to host digitally for its spring/summer 2021 couture season, the official schedule confirms that 28 houses are set to participate. Haute Couture Week takes place from today, January 25 until January 28 and will feature Chanel, Dior, Giambattista Valli, Giorgio Armani Privé, Iris Van Herpen, Valentino, and Viktor and Rolf. While the current coronavirus challenges has forced Jean-Paul Gaultier to postpone its one-off couture collection by Sacai’s Chitose Abe, and London-based couture and ready-to-wear label Ralph and Russo to cancel its presentation, there are still many anticipated launches. Kim Jones will make his womenswear debut for Fendi Couture on January 27 with a show that will be livestreamed on the Italian brand’s website and social media channels. Jones who was appointed as artistic director of haute couture, ready-to-wear and fur collections for women at Fendi in September has teased pearl-encrusted chiffon and elaborate jewellery. Kim Jones to make Fendi womenswear debut at Haute Couture Week Alber Elbaz will also make his long-awaited return to fashion as an invited guest member of the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode with his joint venture with Richemont, AZ Factory. Elbaz’s new luxury label, described as offering “real solutions for today’s women” will present its first products on January 26. Other newcomers to the schedule include 24-year-old Charles de Vilmorin, making his couture debut less than a year after launching his label on January 27, and S.R.Studio.LA.CA. by Sterling Ruby on January 28. There are 10 Haute Couture members participating this season - Alexandre Vauthier, Alexis Mabille, Chanel, Christian Dior, Giambattista Valli, Julien Fournié, Franck Sorbier, Maison Margiela, Schiaparelli, and Stéphane Rolland. In addition, there are five corresponding members including Fendi Couture, Giorgio Armani Privé, Iris Van Herpen, Valentino, and Viktor and Rolf, alongside 13 invited members - Aelis, AZ Factory, Aganovich, Azzaro Couture, Charles de Vilmorin, Christophe Josse, Imane Ayissi, Julie De Libran, Rahul Mishra, Rvdk Ronald Van Der Kemp, S.R. Studio. LA.CA., Yuima Nakazato, and Ulyana Sergeenko. The Federation de la Haute Couture et de la Mode also added that four Haute Joaillerie Houses have joined the event calendar this week - Anna Hu, Boucheron, Chanel Joaillerie, and De Beers. Image: via Fendi Facebook
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Asos in ‘exclusive talks’ to snap up Topshop, other Arcadia brands

Asos has confirmed it has joined the race to acquire brands from collapsed retail empire Arcadia. The British e-tailer said Monday it has entered exclusive talks with the administrators of Arcadia over the acquisition of the Topshop, Topman, Miss Selfridge and HIIT brands. Rival British Fashion retailer Next, which was earlier thought to be the frontrunner in the race to acquire Arcadia’s assets, pulled out of the bidding last week. A consortium comprising Next and US investment firm Davidson Kempner Capital Management were teaming up on a potential offer but withdrew after not meeting the price expectations of the vendor. Other bidders thought to still be in the race to acquire Arcadia’s assets are Boohoo, Frasers Group and Authentic Brands Group, which has linked up with JD Sports Fashion. The auction is expected to be concluded by the end of January after final bids were submitted last Monday. Asos in Topshop bidding war An Asos spokesperson said in a statement: “The board believes this would represent a compelling opportunity to acquire strong brands that resonate well with its customer base. However, at this stage, there can be no certainty of a transaction and Asos will keep shareholders updated as appropriate. Any acquisition would be funded from cash reserves.” If Asos does make the acquisition, it is thought it could result in mass job losses, as Asos is an online-exclusive business with no need for in-store staff. Arcadia called in administrators from Deloitte at the end of November after its sales took a big hit from the pandemic, putting some 13,000 jobs at risk. The group had around 444 UK stores at the time. Last week it emerged that administrators of Arcadia would permanently close 31 of the group’s stores by the end of January, resulting in some 714 redundancies. The closing stores include the entire 21-store estate of Arcadia’s Outfit brand, The Times reported. In January, Arcadia’s administrators sold the Evans brand, e-commerce and wholesale business to rival City Chic Collective Limited for a cash consideration of approximately 23 million pounds. Photo credit: Asos website
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Video: Anja Gockel presents her FW21 ‘Embraceland’ collection

In this video, fashion designer Anja Gockel has presented her FW21 collection called ‘Embraceland’ through a virtual fashion show. The collection was shown through a combination of fashion, art, dance and show acts. Watch the video below. Video: anjagockel via YouTube Photo credit: Anja Gockel, Facebook
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Boohoo acquires Debenhams brand and website for 55 million pounds

Online fashion retailer Boohoo has acquired Debenhams Retail Limited from its joint administrators for 55 million pounds in cash. The company said in a statement that it intends to rebuild and relaunch the Debenhams platform, helping further the group’s stated ambition to lead the fashion ecommerce market, and grow into new categories including beauty, sport and homeware. Commenting on the development, John Lyttle, Boohoo CEO, said: “The acquisition of the Debenhams brand is an important development for the group, as we seek to capture incremental growth opportunities arising from the accelerating shift to online retail. The acquisition represents an exciting strategic opportunity to transform our target addressable market through the creation of an online marketplace that leverages Debenhams’ high brand awareness and traffic through the development of beauty and fashion partnerships connecting brands with consumers.” Boohoo sees opportunity to expand reach through Debenhams acquisition Debenhams is a leading UK fashion and beauty retailer with high brand awareness, and an established online platform with approximately 300 million UK website visits per annum. This makes it a top 10 retail website in the UK by traffic. The company added that the transaction represents a fantastic opportunity to grow the group’s target addressable market and increase the share of wallet opportunity through a new capital light and low risk operating model that is complementary to the group’s direct-to-consumer multi-brand platform. Boohoo plans to create the UK’s largest marketplace across fashion, beauty, sport and homeware and plans to expand the range of products sold via the Debenhams marketplace by maintaining existing marketplace brand relationships and adding new brands over time. For beauty category, the group will continue to operate the current wholesale model, but will also look to add new beauty brands via the marketplace model, while Debenhams’ own fashion brands will be absorbed into boohoo’s current brand portfolio and sold via the core Debenhams site and their own pureplay websites. “This is a transformational deal for the group, which allows us to capture the fantastic opportunity as ecommerce continues to grow. Our acquisition of the Debenhams brand is strategically significant as it represents a huge step which accelerates our ambition to be a leader, not just in fashion ecommerce, but in new categories including beauty, sport and homeware,” added Mahmud Kamani, Executive Chairman of the company. Boohoo to relaunch Debenhams platform in FY22 Debenhams is expected to relaunch on the group’s platform in the first quarter of FY22. Debenhams will continue to operate its website for an agreed period before the relaunch on the group’s platform and a licence has been granted to allow for the winding down of Debenhams’ retail stores. The transaction does not include Debenhams’ retail stores, stock or any financial services. In Debenhams’ most recent financial year to August 31, 2020, its online business generated unaudited online net revenues of approximately 400 million pounds and generated unaudited gross transaction value of 1.524 billion pounds and unaudited EBITDA of 12.7 million pounds. Picture credit:FashionUnited
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Coty appoints new chief procurement officer

Coty has named Stéphane Delbos as its new chief procurement officer, effective 1 February. In his new role, Delbos will be tasked with implementing Coty’s multi-year procurement strategy, which includes achieving a 600 million dollar net reduction in costs by FY23 and strengthening the beauty label's new product pipeline. Delbos joined Coty in 2010 as global sourcing director before working his way up to senior vice president for transformation, indirect and procurement operations, where he played a key role in driving the brand’s broader transformation agenda. Prior to joining Coty, Delbos held several local and global procurement positions at Pfizer and Ipsen. He will join Coty’s senior leadership team and report to chief transformation officer Gordon von Bretten. “Stéphane’s diverse experience and proven track record over 10 years at Coty make him a great addition to Coty’s senior leadership team,” von Bretten said in a statement. “He has a deep understanding of how this company works and has been integral to progressing our financial transformation and successfully navigating the challenges of Covid-19. “I look forward to continue working with him closely as we transform Coty into a true beauty powerhouse that’s stronger, more focused and set up for long-term profitable growth.”
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