Saturday, December 7, 2019

Lidewij Edelkoort: Green will be the trend color 2021

TRENDSEMINAR Green will be the fashion colour of summer 2021. At least, that's what trend forecaster Lidewij Edelkoort said last Monday during her semi-annual trend presentation 'Green Wave'. The event, organized by Appletizer, was styled with decor representing nature, scenes of gorgeous Dutch landscapes, ironically with a bustling highway in the distance. After a predominantly brown winter, which Edelkoort predicted for next autumn, she believes that a green summer is a logical continuation. This hue also includes shades of brown within green shades, such as discoloured grasses or new foliage on old branches.

It's an optimistic, cheerful green, Edelkoort said. For the first time in a long time she showed herself to be mildly positive about the future. Edelkoort: "So much is happening right now on the way to a sustainable future. See the growing resistance to buying events such as 'Black Friday'. Or when I look at my students: they are all working with new materials, new yarns, reusing clothes, making less, but better... that gives hope. This is a challenging and fun time. It's not scary."

Grass green, mint green, bottle green

The green for summer 2021 is a reflection of hope. Trend Union, Edelkoort's trend forecasting agency, has worked that green out in detail for the new books with colours, trends and forecasts. Books that give designers and product designers a foothold in their new collections. Inspiration is drawn from plants and leaves, vegetables, cacti and flowers. Edelkoort also referred to the exhibition on trees, which has been extended and can be seen until 5 January at the Fondation Cartier in Paris.

Nous les arbes' exhibition, photo: Luc Boegly, thanks to Fondation Cartier.

On the colour cards for spring / summer 2021 a broad spectrum of greens and complementary colours such as a diluted blue-green, but also tinted whites, red tones and yellows. Edelkoort expects a growing use of alternative yarns and fabrics such as nettle and pineapple, linen and even paper. "We need to reduce the use of cotton in the fashion industry and find alternatives to this water-consuming favourite fabric. This results in more tactility, stiff or fluffy soft fabrics; summary brocade and jacquard. New methods such as deep sea washing of denim; natural dyeing techniques with flowers or vegetables, for example textiles coloured with avocado.

Timeless basics of strong fabrics

In addition, the trend forecaster identifies a lack of new basics without much ado and challenges the fashion brands present, including many well-known names, to close that gap. "The need is growing for well made, timeless clothes made of solid materials." According to Edelkoort, a new modernism is on hands that focuses on simple clothes: aprons, skirts, straight jackets and trousers in sturdy fabrics. Edelkoort: "The British designer Margaret Howell, for example, does this very well. I see a growing interest in workwear among young people." Demin also fits in here, but a dark and heavier denim, without bleaching or tearing effects. "Not much variation is needed," she emphasizes. "A good design, one good jacket, is enough."

Margaret Howell, MHL, lookbook A/W 19/20 (l); Bonne Suits, photo Maarten van der Kamp (@vonderkampf.alles) ®

Is there no room in the summer of 2021 for floral prints and transparent fabrics, which have always been the main themes in the spring/summer season? "Yes, but less and more disguised," says Edelkoort. "A touch of romance fits very well in the new fashion." And that includes embroidered details, small prints and romantic undergarments.

Opening pictures: Jil Sander (l) and Valentino (r), spring/summer 2020, Catwalk Pictures

This article appeared on Tuesday 3 December on FashionUnited.nl, translated and edited.



* This article was originally published here

Friday, December 6, 2019

Menccessories on the Catwalks Spring Summer 2020

Trendstop brings FashionUnited readers a first look at the essential themes informing men's accessories direction for Spring Summer 2020.

The Trendstop team give FashionUnited readers an exclusive look at three of the key accessory stories that will be inspiring the men's fashion market into SS20 and beyond. The great outdoors, breaking boundaries and pushing boundaries are amongst the ideas informing the season's accessories. Hybridization, conceptual constructions and trend translation from other sectors such as performance sports and womenswear usher in a new exciting era of men's design. Our curated catwalk reports and dedicated accessory trend galleries evaluate each trend's commercial value and longevity, giving you the best possible basis for your decision making.

This week Trendstop present three men's accessories stories emerging for Spring Summer 2020. The Hybrid Trekker and Gardener's Raffia illustrate the different ways to apply outdoor trends to accessories while The Moulded Minimalist highlights ultra-modern design and construction methods that mark the evolution of the sector.

The Hybrid Trekker

Fashion heads off into the wilderness with a luxe take on hiking and trekking style. Boxy, volume backpacks come with additional equipment straps while sneakers incorporate drawstring ankle cuff and heavy-duty mudguards to protect feet against climate and terrain. Many labels are expanding their product offering, branching out into true outdoor accessories such as branded water bottles, sleeping bags and bed rolls.

Images courtesy of Trendstop, left to right: Louis Vuitton, Off-White, Phipps, all Spring Summer 2020.

Gardener's Raffia

Staying closer to home, leisure time in the garden sees the development of raffia accessories inspired by gardening gear. Already a major trend for womenswear, structured sunhats and oversized baskets or woven totes provide the adaptation for men. Refined textures and finishes update traditional rustic looks with a contemporary sensibility.

Images courtesy of Trendstop, left to right: Fendi, Louis Vuitton, Celine, all Spring Summer 2020.

The Moulded Minimalist

Taking a more futuristic approach, moulded constructions follow a minimalistic vision with structured shapes, smooth contours and bright white finishes. Space age pod-like backpacks and belt bags, as well as sci-fi style face masks putting a conceptual spin on the classic baseball cap, illustrate the new levels of experimentation happening across the men's fashion scene.

Images courtesy of Trendstop, left to right: Dior Homme, Facetasm, GMBH, all Spring Summer 2020.

Exclusive Offer

FashionUnited readers can get free access to Trendstop's Fall Winter 2019-20 Key Accessories Directions featuring all the essential designer level styles for the season. Simply click here to receive your free report.

Trendstop.com is one of the world's leading trend forecasting agencies for fashion and creative professionals, renowned for its insightful trend analysis and forecasts. Clients include H&M, Primark, Forever 21, Zalando, Geox, Evisu, Hugo Boss, L'Oreal and MTV.



* This article was originally published here

Thursday, December 5, 2019

Kingpins names top 10 sustainable products from Amsterdam SS21 show

Denim trade fair Kingpins has named the ten most sustainable products featured at its most recent Amsterdam event held between 23 and 24 October.

This is the second time Kingpins has released such a list following the launch of the trade fair’s Most Sustainable Products (MSP) initiative in May, an initiative which aims to help buyers and brands spot the most sustainable products at its shows. This season, the selected products fell into three general categories: fibres, application processes and new concepts. Below is Kingpins’ full list:

Mill: Artistic Milliners
Product: Bio-Vision platform
Description: A new platform built upon research into the opportunities to find the best (and evolving) options for biodegradable/compostable ingredients, which align with the zero-waste design idea. The value proposition of Bio-vision innovation is to eliminate poly in stretch constructions for jeans while maintaining the performance derived from poly blends. Bio-vision fabrics are Ellen MacArthur Jeans Redesign compliant.

Mill: Bossa
Product: Org Deolinda SavesWorldShield
Description: Features a combination of sustainable fibres and dyeing techniques. SavesWorldShield denim is made of 54 percent Refibra; 20 percent recycled cotton; 20 percent organic cotton; 5 percent recycled polyester and 1 percent elastane. The denim has an authentic look and claims of water savings (due to Saveblue dyeing technique) are independently verified.

Mill: Calik Denim
Product: Denethic Denim
Description: A collection of fabrics produced with rinse, rinse + enzyme and bleach wash effects that boast water savings at both mill and laundry levels (ranging from 13 percent to 44 percent), as well as time savings of 18 percent to 45 percent at the laundry. Denethic fabrics create significant resource-saving values for both fabric production and garment washing steps.

Mill: Candiani Denim
Product: Old Recycled (SK6256 K)
Description: A blend of 31 percent recycled pre-consumer cotton, 2 percent recycled pre-consumer elastan, 55 percent lyocell and 12 percent cotton that is OCS, GRS certified. Old Recycled features a combination of best-so-far materials and technologies at each step of the manufacturing process, including the dyeing process, which helps to save 15 percent water, 33 percent chemicals, and 25 percent energy compared to conventional dyeing processes.

Mill: Kilim Denim
Product: Morris Middark Cactus PCRD ST (D5329)
Description: A well-made fabric with a combination of high-level construction, visuals and composition, Morris uses 100 percent organic cotton in the warp, 47.5 percent recycled cotton, 47.5 percent recycled polyester and 5 percent elastane on the weft. The Cactus Project uses a newly developed chemical that improves the fixation of indigo on the warp yarn – resulting in less water being used to remove unfixed dyestuff. Kilim estimates water used for this process will be decreased 93 percent.

Mill: Naveena Denim
Product: Blue Hemp concept
Description: Naveena is going deep into hemp with their Blue Hemp concept, which is a collection of hemp-blend denim fabrics that include a combination of cottonized hemp (up to 50 percent), Tencel and recycled polyester by UNIFI. Blue Hemp fabrics are finished with ozone by Jeanologia.

Mill: Neela Blue
Product: Green by NB
Description: Made with 77 percent organic cotton and 22 percent post-consumer waste cotton, Green features a different technique of yarn spinning to create a new look and the use of post-consumer dyed waste means Green does not involve any dyeing at all – resulting in chemical and water savings as well as elimination of the discharge of polluted water. Green is certified by GRS, OCS and GOTS.

Mill: Orta Anadolu
Product: Immortalist collection
Description: A clever combination of organic cotton and functional, responsible fibers, Immortalist fabrics represent a deep investment in fibers and dyeing processes. A key Immortalist fabric features 79 percent organic cotton with an organic cotton warp, 15 percent Tencel x Refibra, 4 percent Ecomade T400 and 2 percent elastane. The weft is Elastane + Ecomade T400 with organic cotton and Refibra. Life cycle analysis studies give additional value to the concept.

Mill: Prosperity Textile
Product: Revelation Blue (RA3713V)
Description: An indigo-free blue denim with authentic wash-downs. Revelation Blue features a new proprietary eco dyeing technology that is aniline-free, hydrosulfite-free and offers 60 percent water savings.

Mill: Vicunha
Product: Twig
Description: Lightweight denim fabric made without the use of virgin cotton. A continuation of the project initiated with Adriano Goldschmied, Twig fabric is produced with GRS-certified recycled cotton and no additional dye processes – resulting in the use of 90 percent less dye and 95 percent less water.

Andrew Olah, founder of Kingpins Show and the Kingpins Transformers summit series, said in a statement: “Innovation, sustainability and transparency are the critical elements of our show today. The MSP initiative is our solution to bring actionable and reliable information to brands and designers looking for the most sustainable and impactful resources at their disposal.

“Weeks before Kingpins Amsterdam, the MSP team looks at our entire show roster and pre-selects MSP candidates. Then we discuss their products with them before the show and again during the show - and in this way are able to make a selection. We do this for each Amsterdam show. Our research is continual and we are open to hearing from any and all mills anytime - 24/7, 365 days a year - for new, sustainable products.”

Photo credit: FashionUnited



* This article was originally published here

Wednesday, December 4, 2019

Levi's teams up with Cooperative Porto Alegre for recycled denim collection

Levi's has launched a handmade denim accessories collection in partnership with Cooperative Porto Alegre, a non-profit organization that provides job training for vulnerable people, including the homeless, refugees and asylum seekers.

The Levi’s x Coop Porto Alegre capsule collection, which will be available to purchase in selected Levi’s stores and on its website, comprises a selection of tote bags, large pouches and pencil cases made from excess Levi’s denim and fabrics repurposed in Porto Alegre workshops.

All net proceeds from the collection will be donated directly back to Porto Alegre to further support the organisation’s work.

Helping those most vulnerable

Founded in 2001, Porto Alegre is a social cooperative based in Rovigo, Italy, that works to support the most vulnerable members of society, including the homeless, people with health issues, migrants, refugees and asylum seekers.

The partnership is part of a programme established by Levi Strauss & Co over the past three years to support organisations that are providing critical services and assistance to refugees. The programme, which is focused largely in Europe, works with refugees at many different stages, from displacement and disruption to resettlement and longer-term community integration.

The US denim maker’s partnership with the Porto Alegre centres in the tailoring and dress-making workshop founded by fashion designer Rita Cassetta. The workshop will provide pre-professional training for refugees and asylum seekers, many of whom have worked as tailors and dressmakers in their countries of origin.

Adele Ballotta, senior director ecommerce, site merchandising and operations at Levi Strauss & Co Europe, said: “At Levi Strauss & Co, we’ve always believed that how we make our products is just as important as what we make. The Levi’s x Porto Alegre collection is an example of that belief and of our commitment to being a force for positive change in our communities.

"Every piece is unique, just like the story of the person who made it, and 100 percent of the net proceeds from the collection will be donated directly back to Porto Alegre. We’re passionate about the work Porto Alegre is doing and proud to support their mission.”

Photo credit: Levi's



* This article was originally published here

Tuesday, December 3, 2019

New brands, manufacturers and fabric mills join Jeans Redesign initiative

A number of new brands, manufacturers and fabric mills have joined Ellen MacArthur Foundation’s Jeans Redesign initiative, pledging to meet guidelines setting out minimum requirements on garment durability, material health, recyclability and traceability.

The latest brands to join the project, which was launched by Make Fashion Circular, an initiative from the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, are Ateliers and Repairs, Bam Bamboo Clothing, Blue of a kind, Fairblue Jeans, Frank and Oak, and Guess.

New manufacturers joining the project are Artistic Milliners, Denim Expert, Denim Village, Frontline, and Soorty

The guidelines have also been extended in this batch of new participants to allow fabric mills to join in. They include Advance denim mill, Artistic Milliners, Cone Denim, Demko, House of Gold (through Blue Diamond: Xingtai H&J Textiles Co. Ltd), and Soorty. As well as meeting the original guidelines, they will also have to implement ZDHC (Zero Discharge Hazardous Chemicals) wastewater guidelines, including testing and reporting, and they must not produce more than 0.025m3 of wastewater per yard.

Francois Souchet, Make Fashion Circular lead at the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, said in a statement: “More companies joining the Jeans Redesign demonstrates the appetite in the industry for practical solutions that support the transition to a thriving fashion industry, where all our clothes are used for longer, are made from safe and renewable materials, and are made to be made again. This kind of industry-wide shift needs companies from across fashion to work together. Fabric mills are vital to this transformation and we are excited to bring them on board as part of the Jeans Redesign.”

The first pairs of the redesigned jeans will be on sale in Autumn 2020.

Photo courtesy of Ellen MacArthur Foundation - Make Fashion Circular



* This article was originally published here

Monday, December 2, 2019

Futurologist Lucie Greene: 6 trends influencing consumer behavior in 2020

TALK Antwerp - What about diversity and sustainability in 2020? During the Fashion Talks Flanders DC organised last Thursday in Antwerp, futurologist Lucie Greene made some predictions about trends and consumer behaviour for the coming year. FashionUnited noted six trends:

British-born Lucie Greene moved from New York to LA last year and set up her own trend agency, Light Years. The influence in terms of innovation has shifted to the west of the U.S. in recent years, Greene said in an interview with advertising agency Contagious at the time. New lifestyle trends, direct-to-consumer brands and product categories have come over from L.A. And of course there's also the convergence between technology, gaming and streaming in LA.

Cultural relevant strategy

Greene looks at impactful cultural changes and how they will evolve as well as the emotions and goals of the consumer: how does the life of the consumers change, how will it affect them, how will they live and, ultimately, what do they want to buy. "I'm helping brands understand the implications of impactful change and what strategies they need to develop to be culturally relevant and attractive in a rapidly changing world," says Greene. She then links some of those changes to eye-catching new brands and brand strategies.

New game changers and models

We see an increase in new product categories being launched, such as Tracee Ellis Ross hair care products, specifically for curly and frizzy hair. Large chains are also jumping on this trend and are adding premium private labels to their product range. According to Greene, a mix of technology and influencing is emerging, just look at the September show of Rihanna's Fenty, streamed via Amazon Prime. In addition, there are new brands that pretend to be a non-profit label. They are unpacking the content - sustainability, natural ingredients - and are being sold at a low price to those who join their club.

The text continues after the video

Savange x Fenty show performance preview Amazon Prime Video

Radical inclusiveness

Diversity in all its forms will break into mainstream culture by 2020. Greene gives us an example: Universal Standard that sells clothing from American size 4 to 40 (EU 34 to 70). Henning of Lauren Chan, on the other hand, makes formal clothing for work situations that flatters every type of body. Sainsbury's came up with an atypical pregnancy and breastfeeding line and Tommy Hilfiger, with Tommy Adaptive, focuses on consumers with a disability. Campaigns are also increasingly seeing models of real skin conditions such as psoriasis, acne, cellulite or stretch marks.

Opmars of Gen Z

Fear also stimulates trends - the climate protest is driven by fear - and thus becomes - cynically enough - something that can be capitalized on. "Gen Z grew up with uncertainty, thinks progressively and is very entrepreneurial but with a social purpose. They see themselves as a brand, partly through social media and influencing. They think creatively, make something and sell it immediately, via social media. Retailers who want to appeal to Gen Z must realise that they are dealing with conscious consumers," says Greene. "They love vintage and unexpected categories such as anti-consumption brand Everybody.world or genderfree-shop Phluid. A trend that will become very important in 2020 is the impact of gaming. Greene: "For Gen Z, gaming is a form of social media. They meet on games, and date through apps. They make contact via Tinder and then meet each other on Fortnite. The world of gaming is interwoven with the visual culture. We already had virtual influencers like Lil Miquela, but now there is a complete intersection of gaming and beauty of fashion. For example, the Dazed Beauty platform brings unexpected, futuristic beauty reports with inspiration from cyberspace.

Sustainability 2.0

Greene also points to the so-called 'goal revolution' - a redefinition of why people are here, what makes them happy and what they spend their money on. Wellness is what millennials want today: from air purifiers to organic cotton and everything that makes us healthier and improves our lives. Sustainability is no longer a trend but the basis from which new brands can start," Greene explains. "Brands that aim to change consumer behaviour include By Humankind, a beauty label with reusable packaging, or For Days, where you can take out a zero waste T-shirt subscription.
Another trend that comes under this is the vegan lifestyle, which is sustainable and good for your health. In addition, innovation in the field of sustainability is called the new luxury, such as new textiles as an alternative to animal materials, with Stella McCartney as the pioneer, of course. Social collabs are also being created, such as Guerlain x Unesco or Timberland's reforestation project", she further illustrates.

Photo: Timberland

Communities

The fifth trend mentioned by Greene responds to the general wave of isolation: "Social media can tend to make consumers unhappy or lonely. So brands are building new communities where activities and workshops are organised so that they can find that sense of belonging. Examples are the social bakery Luminary Bakery in East London, the collaboration of Vans with avant-garde gallery KK Outlet in Covent Garden and the pottery classes of Still Life Ceramics in L.A.".

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Video: Still Life Ceramics

Technological revolution

"More and more is also becoming possible due to the rapid technological evolution", says the trendwatcher. "Lil Miquela now has more than 1.5 million followers and has deals with major brands such as Supreme and Diesel who sees her as a powerful marketing tool. Other examples include experience-focused e-commerce, such as Obsess, the shopping platform that leases out virtual, experience-focused stores to brands, as well as the investment in interactive mirrors from the sportswear brand Lululemon. In addition, technology is a source of inspiration for new products: game branding or virtual collections such as Jeremy Scott's collection for The Sims. Augmented reality filters are used to advertise products such as the Adidas Deerupt filter on Snapchat or Candy Crush filter on Instagram to increase brand awareness. It's the 21st-century version of the billboard," concludes Greene.

Photo: Moschino The Sims

This article was originally published on FashionUnited.nl before being translated and edited to English

Main photo: Universal Standard campaign NYC metro



* This article was originally published here

Sunday, December 1, 2019

Dr Martens could be bought by American investment firm

American investment firm Carlyle Group LP is reportedly mulling a bid for British footwear brand Dr Martens.

Carlyle is in early talks over a potential offer, though no decision has been made and other bidders could emerge, Bloomberg reports, citing people familiar with the matter.

The British brand, known for its counterculture punk style, is currently owned by rival investment firm Permira, which bought the brand from the founding Griggs family in 2014 for 380 million pounds. Earlier this year, it was reported that the firm was working with Goldman Sachs Group Inc. and Robert W. Baird & Co to consider selling the bootmaker or floating it on the US stock market.

None of the parties involved have confirmed or denied the rumoured talks.

Dr Martens has enjoyed healthy growth under Permira. For the year ended 31 March 2019, the brand reported a 20 percent increase in total revenue to 348.6 million pounds, while EBITDA rose by 33 percent to 50 million pounds.

Retail revenue at the brand rose by 30 percent to 126.7 million pounds, while e-commerce increase by 67 percent to 72.7 million pounds.

During the year, the British brand opened 20 new stores.

Photo credit: Dr Martens, Facebook



* This article was originally published here