Video: Ports 1961 FW21 collection

In this video, Canadian fashion house Ports 1961 has presented its FW21 collection at Milan Fashion Week (MFW). Watch the video below. Do you want to see more FW21 clothing collections? Click here to view the FashionUnited Marketplace. Video: FF Channel via YouTube Photo credit: Milano Fashion Week
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Video: CHB FW21 collection at MFW

In this video, fashion label CHB has presented its FW21 collection at Milan Fashion Week (MFW). Watch the video below. Do you want to see more FW21 clothing collections? Click here to view the FashionUnited Marketplace. Video: IMAXtree.tv via YouTube Photo credit: Milano Fashion Week
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Video: Alessandro Dell'Acqua and Elena Mirò FW21 collection

In this video, fashion labels Alessandro Dell'Acqua and Elena Mirò have collaborated to produce a capsule collection for FW21 and they presented it at Milan Fashion Week (MFW). Watch the video below. Do you want to see more FW21 clothing collections? Click here to view the FashionUnited Marketplace. Video: Wondernet Magazine via YouTube Photo credit: Milano Fashion Week
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Video: Cecilie Bahnsen at PFW

In this video, Danish fashion designer Cecilie Bahnsen has presented her FW21 collection at Paris Fashion Week (PFW). Watch the video below. Do you want to see more FW21 clothing collections? Click here to view the FashionUnited Marketplace. Video: Cecilie Bahnsen via YouTube Photo credit: Elle, Facebook
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Video: CHB FW21 collection at MFW

In this video, fashion label CHB has presented its FW21 collection at Milan Fashion Week (MFW). Watch the video below. Do you want to see more FW21 clothing collections? Click here to view the FashionUnited Marketplace. Video: IMAXtree.tv via YouTube Photo credit: Milano Fashion Week
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Video: Alexandra Moura at MFW

In this video, Portuguese fashion designer Alexandra Moura has presented her FW21 collection at Milan Fashion Week (MFW). Watch the video below. Do you want to see more FW21 clothing collections? Click here to view the FashionUnited Marketplace. Video: Alexandra Moura via YouTube Photo credit: Milano Fashion Week
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3 spring trends seen on February runways

Most runways are already looking ahead to Fall 2021, though there are still some new spring collections coming in. February fashion weeks saw some of the latest looks for Spring 2021 in see-now-buy-now collections by designers forgoing the “traditional” fashion calendar in favor of a more consumer-friendly model. Our latest look into spring trends shows us just what would be expected: appealing patterns in ethereal colorways. These are the top trends: White tailoring Womenswear has long been taking a “borrowed from the boys” approach that brings characteristic menswear elements into casual styles - the most common of which tends to be tailoring. For Spring 2021, designers are leaning into white tailoring to bring a more sophisticated touch to clean and casual summer styles. Rejina Pyo created linen looks with tailored elements across tops, skirts and shorts, while Anne Klein designed collared shirts, blazers and fitted trousers. Rebecca Minkoff included a shirt with tailored angles as well as bold and feminine ruffle detailing. Rejina Pyo, Spring 2021 Intricate patterns Patterns are becoming smaller and more intricate for Spring 2021. Instead of the bright and bold prints we saw last spring, designers are turning their attention to smaller shapes in limited color palettes that almost give the feeling of an optical illusion. Adam Selman Sport took this approach with a repetitive pattern featuring dumbbells in a geometric formation, as well as with floral designs and the ever-popular animal print motif. Similarly, Rebecca Minkoff brought animal prints, florals to a smaller and more intricate scale - while also including more classic large-form floral prints in the mix. Rebecca Minkoff, Spring 2021 Orange The color orange is slowly increasing in popularity, and is about to become even more widely seen this spring. Whether in bright or muted tones, or added to patterns with other colors, orange is on the rise. Rachel Comey used the color sparingly, though the hue did not go unnoticed. Orange flowers were seen in the print of a romper, along with pink and blue tones. The designer also showed a knitwear look in an orange-salmon tone. Rejina Pyo and Anne Klein each took a more vibrant approach to their orange hints, using the color across dresses, skirts, tops and jackets. Anne Klein, Spring 2021 Images: courtesy of Anne Klein, Rebecca Minkoff and Rejina Pyo
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UK furlough scheme extended until end of September

The UK government has announced it is extending the country’s furlough scheme again, this time until the end of September. Chancellor Rishi Sunak said Wednesday the Coronavirus Job Retention Scheme (CJRS) - which sees the government pay 80 percent of employees’ wages for hours not worked due to the pandemic - will be extended by a further three months. But companies will be asked to pay 10 percent of those wages in July and 20 percent in August and September as the scheme is phased out. The Labour party said the extension should have been announced months earlier. Additionally, around 600,000 more self-employed workers will be eligible for government financial help. From April, a new grant will be available from the Self-Employment Income Support Scheme (SEISS) worth 80 percent of three months’ average trading profits up to 7,500 pounds. ‘Light at the end of the tunnel’ The furlough scheme was first introduced in March 2020 as a lifeline for employees and businesses alike during the first lockdown and has now been extended three times. Since its inception, it has protected more than 11 million jobs, according to the government. “Our Covid support schemes have been a lifeline to millions, protecting jobs and incomes across the UK,” Sunak announced Wednesday afternoon. “There’s now light at the end of the tunnel with a roadmap for reopening, so it’s only right that we continue to help business and individuals through the challenging months ahead - and beyond.” Last week, Boris Johnson announced a “cautious” roadmap to easing lockdown restrictions over the coming months, which includes reopening non-essential stores from April 12 and lifting all restrictions on social distancing by June 21. Nicola Sturgeon then announced just a few days later that Scotland’s non-essential retailers would be able to reopen from April 26. Image: FashionUnited
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In pictures: Dover Street Market opens Paris store

Comme Des Garçons-owned concept store Dover Street Market has opened a new shop at 54 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, Paris. The new, small space, aptly called Dover Little Street Market, showcases seven brands that are part of the Dover Street Market Paris Company’s brand development division, an incubator of emerging talent launched last year. The brands showcased at the new Paris location are ERL, from California; Honey Fucking Dijon, from Germany; Liberal Youth Ministry, from Mexico; Rassvet, from Russia; Vaquera, from the US; Weinsanto, from Paris; and Youths in Balaclava, from Singapore. Dover Street Market first landed in Paris in October 2019 when it opened Dover Street Parfum Market. Images: Dover Street Market
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Video: Gabriele Colangelo FW21 collection

In this video, Italian fashion brand Gabriele Colangelo has presented her FW21 collection at Milan Fashion Week (MFW). Watch the video below. Do you want to see more FW21 clothing collections? Click here to view the FashionUnited Marketplace. Video: Kendam Runway via YouTube Photo credit: Milano Fashion Week
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Video: Canadian FW21 collection at MFW

In this video, fashion label Canadian has presented its FW21 collection at Milan Fashion Week (MFW). Watch the video below. Do you want to see more FW21 clothing collections? Click here to view the FashionUnited Marketplace. Video: Vrai Magazine via YouTube Photo credit: Milano Fashion Week
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Video: Gianluca Capannolo at MFW

In this video, Italian fashion designer Gianluca Capannolo has presented her FW21 collection at Milan Fashion Week (MFW). Watch the video below. Do you want to see more FW21 clothing collections? Click here to view the FashionUnited Marketplace. Video: Vrai Magazine via YouTube Photo credit: Milano Fashion Week
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Macy’s announces leadership changes, eliminates COO role

Macy’s, Inc. has announced changes to its senior leadership team, which the company said are aligned with its recently updated Polaris growth strategy. “As a digitally led omnichannel retailer, Macy’s, Inc. is in the midst of an exciting transformation,” said Gennette. “We are building a diverse leadership team that includes a blend of new talent with outside perspectives along with our tenured and best developed leaders who will accelerate the progress of our Polaris growth strategy. I am confident that these changes in reporting structure will enable us to be nimbler and more efficient as we move forward in our recovery and drive top and bottom-line growth.” Macy’s reshuffles senior leadership team The company said, John Harper, chief operations officer, will depart the company effective August 1, 2021. Subsequently, the role of chief operations officer will be eliminated. With the elimination of the COO role, Marc Mastronardi, chief stores officer, and Dennis Mullahy, chief supply chain officer, will report to Jeff Gennette, chairman and chief executive officer. Additionally, Marla Beck, Bluemercury, Inc.’s chief executive officer and co-founder, will leave the company this summer and Macy’s has commenced a search for a new chief executive officer who, once appointed, will report to Tony Spring, chairman and chief executive officer of Bloomingdale’s. Chuck DiGiovanna, currently vice president, real estate, has been appointed to lead Macy’s real estate function, succeeding Douglas W. Sesler, who is leaving the company. DiGiovanna will report to Adrian V. Mitchell, chief financial officer. Macy’s appoints chief information officer Macy’s added that Laura Miller has been appointed chief information officer, effective March 15, 2021. In this role, Miller will report directly to Gennette and will be responsible for the company’s information technology platforms and teams. Most recently, she served as chief information officer of InterContinental Hotel Group (IHG). Miller succeeds chief technology officer Naveen Krishna, who is leaving the company. Prior to that role, Miller served as senior vice president at First Data Corporation (FDC), a highly regulated global payments processing leader that serves more than six million merchant locations, thousands of card issuers and millions of consumers. Previously, she was a member of the technology mergers & acquisitions team at TD Ameritrade. In addition, she has served in other senior leadership capacities at The Patent and Trademark Office, The Housing Opportunities Commission of Montgomery County, Maryland and British Aerospace, PLC. She serves on the boards of LGI Homes (LGIH), an industry-leading residential home design, construction, sales and marketing business, and of EVO Payments (EVOP), a global merchant acquirer and payment processor. Image: Macy's
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How material innovation can change the fashion industry

The fashion industry is aware of the problems caused by some of the most commonly used fabrics and fibers - particularly those derived from animals. Groups such as PETA and the Humane Society of the United States have campaigned against animal-based materials for decades, promoting several brands and retailers to boycott harmful fabrics such as fur and exotic skins. However the ecological issues relating to animal-based materials are not restricted to those used in luxury fashion. According to data from the Higg Materials Sustainability Index, animal materials make up four of the five worst materials for the environment as the processes of turning animal byproducts into fabrics require a significant amount of energy and harmful chemicals. Not to mention the fact that cruelty is inherent in any animal-based agriculture. The solution lies within technological innovation “Innovation is exciting because it gives us an enormous amount of opportunity,” Nicole Rawling, executive director of the Material Innovation Initiative, told FashionUnited. “There’s really no limit on how much positive impact we can have on the issues facing brands at the moment.” The Material Innovation Initiative works to connect brands with alternative materials that may eliminate the need for animal-based fabrics. “Traditional materials are not used because they’re the best for performance or aesthetics,” Rawling explained. “We’ve been using leather, wool and silk for thousands of years, and they started as by-products of food and we used them because they were available and cheap, and we could turn them into clothing. With innovation, we can exceed those biological constraints of the animal. We can increase the performance of our materials.” Material innovation is an essential area of focus for any brand interested in making changes to better the environment. Up to 80 percent of a brand’s environmental footprint comes from the raw materials used in its production, according to the Higg Materials Sustainability Index. “If I could give some advice to brands, it is that precision fermentation is going to be the process to watch in the long term,” Rawling said. Precision fermentation is a process of creating alternative materials, such as a manufactured leather or silk, by inserting an animal-based protein into a bacteria or yeast. The protein then multiplies very quickly at low cost. This process allows brands to utilize real replicas of a material rather than finding a different alternative, yet it is cruelty-free to animals and better on the environment in terms of energy and chemical usage. Rawling added that, “Precision fermentation allows us to use the same building blocks as traditional silk or as a leather, but allows a huge potential to change the material beyond the biological constraints of the animal. You could potentially make the material even stronger.” For example, precision fermentation would allow a manufacturer to create a sheet of leather that fits the specific needs of a particular order, thus reducing waste and cost to a brand. Consumers want material innovation, and brands must deliver The Material Innovation Initiative supports businesses looking to make changes in the materials they use. Using funding from philanthropy and business partners, the Initiative accelerates the development of high performance, animal-free materials that meet sustainable goals. Rawling explained that, “it is really hard to convince consumers to change,” despite the fact that “ more that consumers - especially the younger generations, Gen Z and Millennials - want to give their money to brands who have similar values to themselves.” The Initiative conducted studies in the U.S. and China to gauge consumer attitudes towards the use of technology in their clothing, and was pleasantly surprised to learn that 76 percent of American consumers and 80 percent of Chinese consumers would purchase leather grown from cells in a factory. In fact, 55 percent of consumers in the U.S. and 66 percent of consumers in China would prefer a leather alternative to natural leather. Still, the majority consumers do not make the sustainable decision when making a choice to purchase. Pricing and ease of use remain top priorities for most. So Rawley’s solution is to put the responsibility on the brands, in a way that doesn’t sacrifice performance, aesthetics or profit. “We’re using science and technology to create new innovation that will solve the needs of both brands and consumers. That’s what innovation does,” Rawley said. Image: Pexels
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Farfetch launches on Alibaba Group’s Tmall Luxury Pavilion

Farfetch is launching a Tmall Luxury Pavilion flagship store to enable thousands of luxury brands to reach Chinese consumers as part of its localisation strategy in the region. The integration of Farfetch on Tmall means that Alibaba Group’s 779 million consumers will have access to products from more than 3,500 luxury brands, 90 percent of which did not previously have a presence on Tmall. Judy Liu, managing director of Farfetch Greater China, said in a statement: “This is an important and exciting milestone in our partnership with Alibaba and creates an incredible opportunity for luxury brands to expand into the China market at a time when international travel has been curtailed and luxury customers are unable to travel to their most loved brands’ boutiques in Europe. “This launch is just the beginning in our partnership as we work together to help brands and retailers fully digitise their businesses online and offline through our Luxury New Retail strategy, both in China and globally.” The new storefront occupies a premier position on the Tmall Luxury Pavilion’s homepage with one of the five main navigation buttons and a premium permanent banner, explained Alibaba. To celebrate the launch, Farfetch has partnered with well-known celebrities and influencers in China to promote the storefront. There will also be social engagement campaigns and an advertising campaign across key social media platforms. Janet Wang, general manager of Tmall Luxury, added: “The launch of the Farfetch Tmall flagship is a very exciting moment for China’s booming online luxury market. Underpinned by Alibaba’s digital ecosystem, the Farfetch flagship store is greatly expanding the luxury product offerings to more than 779 million Chinese consumers on our platform. “In partnership with Farfetch, we will continually enhance our product selection, marketing strategies, and membership services for our consumers. We aim to set the standard in the industry and lead the digitisation of luxury shopping.” The launch follows the strategic partnership between Alibaba Group, Farfetch, and Richemont announced in November 2020 to accelerate the digitisation of the luxury fashion industry. The Luxury New Retail initiative aims to leverage Farfetch’s and Alibaba’s state-of-the-art omnichannel retail technologies, including a full suite of enterprise solutions powered by the two companies, to serve the needs of luxury businesses. These solutions will serve both mono-brand and multi-brand distribution strategies for luxury brands, including fully-connected e-commerce websites and apps, omnichannel retail technology, and access to the Farfetch and Tmall Luxury Pavilion marketplaces via a single integration. Images: courtesy of Farfetch
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Phase Eight managing director to step down

British premium womenswear brand Phase Eight has announced its managing director Simon Pickering is stepping down at the end of the financial year. Pickering joined Phase Eight in 2019 from fashion brand Reiss, where he was chief digital officer since 2017. Phase Eight thanked Pickering for his work to “enliven” the brand’s proposition both in-store and online during his tenure, as well as expanding its reach and relevance both in the UK and internationally. “Against a backdrop of significant disruption and change, I am really proud of what we have achieved at Phase Eight in recent years and look forward to keeping abreast of progress as the team continues to drive forward the development of the brand,” Pickering said in a statement. The company also announced the internal promotion of Sally Piasecki as product director. Piasecki joined Phase Eight in 2012 as head of buying, and prior to that spent 11 years at the Arcadia Group. In her new role, she will report directly to Justin Hampshire, managing director of Phase Eight owner TFG London, and will work alongside the existing senior team, both within the Phase Eight brand and within TFG London’s shared back office platform. “Simon has established a clear direction for the continued development of the Phase Eight brand and we are grateful for his leadership and dedication,” said TFG London CEO Ben Barnett. He continued: “As the UK retail market gradually recovers from the Covid crisis, we are excited to own a portfolio of exceptional international womenswear brands that are well-positioned for a swift recovery. Within TFG London we have an enormously talented team in place, that gives me every confidence in our ability to deliver the next phase of our growth.” Image: Phase Eight, Facebook
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Iconic LA fashion retailer Fred Segal dies aged 87

Iconic LA fashion figure and founder of his eponymous retail chain, Fred Segal, has died at the age of 87. He died on Thursday from complications from a stroke, a publicist announced, according to The Hollywood Reporter. Segal opened his first eponymous store in 1961, a 350-square-foot space on Santa Monica Boulevard in West Hollywood. He then moved operations to the retailer’s iconic Melrose Avenue and Crescent Heights Boulevard location, where he made a name for himself when he disrupted the scene, selling jeans for almost 20 dollars, significantly higher than the 3 dollars other stores were typically charging at the time. An icon of LA culture The store became a hotspot for celebrities, attracting the likes of The Beatles, Elvis Presley, Ross and The Jackson 5, and even featured as a prominent backdrop in the 1995 teen comedy Clueless. Segal was also a forward-thinker in his approach to fashion, pioneering the shop-in-shop concept and experiential retail at his LA store to shine a spotlight on up-and-coming labels. The retailer opened several other locations across LA over the coming years, as well as spaces in Bern, Switzerland and Taipei, Taiwan. Segal “was an innovator, a forward thinker, a rule-breaker, a mentor to so many, such a lover of life and a humanitarian,” his family said in a statement seen by The Holywood Reporter. “Anyone who knew him felt his powerful energy. He worked his whole life to have self-love and to teach all of us to love one another. To the very end, he inspired us to never give up. He will be forever loved and celebrated.” In 2012, New York-based media company Sandow acquired global licensing rights to the Fred Segal name. Since 2019, the retailer has been owned by brand licensing company Global Icons. Image: Fred Segal pictured in 2006 with Sharon Segal and Jackie Brander during the 'Designing A Cure' event. Credit: Frazer Harrison / Getty Images North America / Getty Images via AFP
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Global Fashion Group turns profitable in 2020

Global Fashion Group S.A. (GFG) has announced its target of becoming a 10 billion euros NMV business in the next seven to nine years. In the fourth quarter, GFG delivered NMV of 594.5 million euros, up 28.9 percent driven by accelerated customer acquisition and a significant increase in orders across all markets. In fiscal 2020, GFG’s NMV increased by 25.7 percent to 1,958.2 million euros with adjusted EBITDA of 16.4 million euros and a margin of 1.2 percent. Commenting on the trading update, Christoph Barchewitz and Patrick Schmidt, Co-CEOs of GFG, said in a statement: “FY 2020 was GFG’s first profitable year, on an adjusted EBITDA basis. We are well positioned for the next phase of growth and to deliver on our ambition towards becoming a 10 billion euros NMV business in the next 7-9 years.” GFG witnesses strong growth in active customers GFG now has 16.3 million active customers, up 24.6 percent, with 2.1 million new customers shopping across GFG’s platforms in the fourth quarter alone. NMV per active customer was up modestly reflecting the significant number of new customers. The company added that marketplace NMV increased by 89 percent with participation of 32 percent and still more brand partners working with this channel to reach GFG’s enlarged customer base. SEA, CIS and LATAM each saw NMV growth of more than 30 percent along with strong improvements in gross margin across every region, driven by a near 25 percent increase in active customers and a small increase in NMV/active customer. Growth in ANZ continued to recover, with NMV up 18.2 percent, driven by improved inventory levels and its biggest ever day on Black Friday, along with strong December sales. GFG had 13.3 million orders in the quarter, up 28.8 percent, with a marginal improvement of average order value. GFG expects to grow NMV by 25 percent in 2021 In 2021, GFG expects to grow NMV by over 25 percent, delivering 2.3-2.4 billion euros in NMV, and around 1.5 billion euros of revenue, all on a constant currency basis. GFG expects Adjusted EBITDA to improve modestly on 2020. The company further said that these forecasts assume no significant deterioration in the Covid-19 impact across the regions GFG or its suppliers operate in. Image:Global Fashion Group,Brunswick Group
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