Six sustainable textile innovations from Taiwan

With petrol-based yarns, fibres and fabrics still being around and 66 percent of all garments globally being sent to landfills in 2019 alone - more than one million tons and an increase of more than 800 percent over the last 60 years - the fashion industry needs to make inroads to decrease its environmental impact. Textile innovations are an important step in this direction and yarn, fibre and fabric manufacturers have come up with creative solutions in the past, using banana fibres, apple waste, kelp and more as alternative resources. At a recent online seminar, six textile companies from Taiwan presented their latest sustainable textile innovations that involve using unusual waste products such as fish scales and coffee oil and other materials like castor oil. Biodegradability is also high on the list of must-haves. FashionUnited has put together the latest sustainable yarn and fibre innovations at a glance. Image: Camangi Camangi Corporation - Umorfil Bionic Fibre made from fish scales The waste from fish products is currently 35 percent, of which 1-5 percent are the scales. Camangi uses these fish scales for their Umorfil Bionic Fibre. The company cleans the fish scales and then extracts ocean collagen peptide amino acids from them. Using supramolecular technology, they are then mixed with textile materials like viscose or filament chips to create a bionic functional fibre that is comfortable, skin friendly, naturally deodorising and moisturising, thus well suited for face masks, innerwear, baby wear, etc. The Oeko Tex Standard 100 certified fibre is also 100 percent biodegradable and eco-friendly due to its use of waste materials and production process without chemicals or detergents. Four Elements Energy Biotechnology Co. Ltd. - Talent Yarn with nano zinc technology Image: Four Elements The company’s Talent Yarn integrates zinc to produce an eco-friendly, functional yarn that has anti-static, anti-odour, antiviral and antibacterial properties and protects from harmful UV rays; in other words, it promotes healing and growth. It is also produced in a non-toxic and non-chemical way and has received the EU’s REACH non-toxic approval for yarns. The company’s latest innovation, I-Mydrive, implants various mineral-rich elements into the yarn and uses resonance imaging to activate the wearer’s skin, also keeping him or her cool in summer and warm in winter. According to Four Elements, “it can last forever” as liquid metal is incorporated as well, making the material extra durable. Yi Shin Textile Industrial Co. Ltd. - sustainable Magic Yarn series Yi Shin presented various yarns from its Magic Yarn series, for example Magic BES, All Weather and CAC, which are breathable, skin friendly and quick-drying. All yarns in the series, which are biodegradable, go through an eco-friendly production process that uses less labour and energy but also fewer packing materials and more efficient transportation. Acelon Chemicals & Fiber Corporation - bio-based nylon yarns from castor oil Image: Acelon Acelon makes sure to create less waste and pollution by using recycled materials, dope-dyed colour materials and biodegradable materials, for example its CiCLO yarn. This means less consumption of petroleum-based materials and the extension of a product’s lifecycle through abrasion-resistant materials like DuraXTend yarn that can be mixed with high-abrasion materials like wool. The company claims that it can withstand even 300.000 wash cycles without considerable wear and tear. The company’s AceEco PA410 Bio yarn is 70 percent bio-based and made from Sebacic acid extracted from castor oil. Castor oil plants grow even in poor soil conditions and without irrigation. They also do not compete with the food chain. In addition, the yarn’s production process is carbon neutral as the carbon dioxide emitted during polymerisation is offset by the amount absorbed by the plants. Libolon - Ecoya and ReEcoya solution-dyed yarns Image: Libolon The company’s motto “producing more from less” has been applied to the Ecoya and ReEcoya solution-dyed yarns, which use 80 percent less water, 64 percent less coal, 20 percent fewer chemicals, 53 percent less electricity and emit 63 percent less CO2 than the production cycle of regular yarns. The company’s PolyPlus yarn uses recycled polyester, thus saving more than 70 percent energy and emitting almost 69 percent less CO2 than regular PET yarns. The yarns have received BlueSign verification, are Oeko-Tex Standard 100 certified and TÜV approved, among other certifications. Singtex - Airmem, world’s first bio-based coffee membrane Image: Singtex Singtex, known as the maker of S.Café, a yarn made from coffee grounds, which offers natural anti-door qualities, UV ray protection, quick drying time and recycled polyester, has developed its microporous membrane technology further to come up with Airmem, a windproof, waterproof and oil-repellent membrane with excellent moisture vapour permeability. It is made from a mixture of recycled polymers and coffee oil, which has been extracted from leftover coffee beans and grounds. German outdoor brands Schöffel and Vaude are already using this technology in their products. Image: Schoeffel Much is possible today when it comes to sustainable textile innovations and one can only hope that petroleum-based and non-biodegradable materials are a thing of the past, thus helping the fashion industry erase its negative environmental impact. Also read: * 10 sustainable textile innovations everyone should know Image: Yi Shin
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B4U Car winners Program preparation 2020 (Presenter Shaikh Shami)

Podcast: Recloseted Radio discusses corporate sustainability and CSR

In this episode, Recloseted Radio discusses corporate sustainability and corporate social responsibility (CSR). In particular, the reasons why retailers shouldn't discount their products this Black Friday, and how to consciously participate in the sale season instead. Listen to the podcast below. Source: Recloseted Radio via Listennotes
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J Brand to shift towards direct distribution model, jobs to be cut

The Fast Retailing Group has announced a shakeup of the business model of its premium denim brand J Brand which will result in an undisclosed number of job cuts. To be more precise, the company said it will launch a “strategic plan to rearticulate the business model” of the brand “and shift direction toward direct distribution”. That means that from its summer 2021 collection onwards, LA-based J Brand will be distributed exclusively via select direct-to-consumer channels operated by the Fast Retailing Group. The Japanese company, which also owns fast-fashion giant Uniqlo, said the LA-headquartered Fast Retailing Jeans Innovation Center (JIC), opened in 2016, “will continue to innovate sustainable, next-generation denim development and support denim production for Fast Retailing brands globally, including the future J Brand assortment”. J Brand to face job cuts As a result of this new business direction, the J Brand workforce will be reduced in the coming months “in proportion to the needs of a redefined corporate structure”, Fast Retailing said. Kazumi Yanai, J Brand chairman and group senior executive officer of Fast Retailing, said in a statement that the US label’s current business model “is not aligned with the vision we have for its future success”. He continued: “This change in direction will bring energy and focus back to a celebrated denim brand in what has become an increasingly saturated marketplace.” Yanai also underscored the company’s commitment to J Brand going forward, as well as the broader denim category in general. “The reality of the denim market today and our ability to figure in it significantly depends on our ability to react and adapt quickly - not only to the marketplace, but also to the changing needs of our customers,” he said. “Ultimately, I believe J Brand will be best served by a streamlined operation, a sharper distribution network and a greater focus on the dynamic lifestyle of the end customer. Fast Retailing's global concept of LifeWear has never been more relevant to us.” Photo credit: J Brand, Facebook
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Womenswear material trends for SS21

Trendstop brings FashionUnited readers the essential material and texture directions from the international Women’s Spring Summer Fashion Weeks that will be informing SS21 and beyond. Designers sought to highlight their artisanal skills this season, as materials revived classical hand making techniques and fine craftsmanship. Sustainable alternatives to traditional fabrications in the form of recycled synthetics and vegan hides illustrated the increasing industry shift towards more eco-friendly offerings whilst materials almost weightless in appearance, crossed categories to unite the fashion and performance sectors. Artisanal Textures Hand making techniques see designers bring craftsmanship back to seasonal fabrications. Techniques such as lattice or knotwork, basketry and patchwork quilting are revived, updated for the contemporary consumer with a luxury sensibility associated with premium quality materials and refined vintage colourways. Lighter Than Air Ultralightweight, flyaway materials were applied across both ready-to-wear and performance sports categories. Soft and natural or recycled, man-made fibres created dramatic, billowing silhouettes and floaty, sheer layers that allow for movement and merged technical qualities with fashion-forward directionality. Eco Textures With sustainability at the forefront of consumer and industry thinking, eco-friendly and natural finishes were also dominant on the runways. Tactile textures, raw untreated finishes and plant dyed or earth toned hues offer new levels of surface interest. As more designers look to limit their use of animal products, smooth premium leather finishes offer inspiration for vegan alternatives. Exclusive Offer: FashionUnited readers can get free access to Trendstop’s Fall Winter 2020-21 Key Materials Directions report, featuring all the essential textures and fabrications seen at the FW20-21 collections. Simply click the banner to receive your free report. Trendstop.com is one of the world's leading trend forecasting agencies for fashion and creative professionals, renowned for its insightful trend analysis and forecasts. Clients include H&M, Primark, Forever 21, Zalando, Geox, Evisu, Hugo Boss, L'Oreal and MTV.
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LK Bennett prepares to launch CVA

British womenswear retailer LK Bennett is reportedly gearing up to launch a company voluntary arrangement (CVA) proposal which will see five of its stores permanently close and the rest move to turnover-based rents. The company employs 400 staff and has 18 standalone stores, all of which are currently closed under the UK’s new lockdown restrictions. The retailer said the CVA would result in a small number of job losses as the business attempts to “mitigate the ongoing financial impact of the Covid-19 pandemic”, Drapers reports. The company is being advised by restructuring firm Alvarez & Marsal. A long list of British fashion companies have launched CVAs in recent months as they struggle to cope with the impact of Covid-19, including New Look, AllSaints, Bair Group, Hotter Shoes and Monsoon Accessorize. LK Bennett to launch CVA amid difficult trading The retailer said its eventwear and workwear categories, which are usually among its best performing, have both been impacted by Covid-19, while a drop in tourism in London has also hit sales. The company said it doesn’t expect sales to fully recover until mid-2021, despite its “best efforts”. Founded in 1990, LK Bennett has been favoured by the Duchess of Cambridge and is well-known for its kitten heels. The retailer fell into administration in March 2019, after calling in advisers in February to examine options for the company. A month later, Chinese franchise partner Byland UK bought the UK, Irish and wholesale division of the company. In April this year, accountancy firm EY, which is overseeing the administration, extended the process by another year. Photo credit: LK Bennett, Facebook
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Burberry encouraged by recovery despite drop in profit

Burberry has reported a dive in profit for the first half of the year after months of Covid-19 disruption, but said it has been encouraged by positive signs of recovery. For the six months to 26 September, the British luxury brand’s pre-tax profit fell 62 percent to 73 million pounds, while adjusted operating profit dropped 75 percent to 51 million pounds. Revenue fell 31 percent to 878 million pounds, but that was still better than estimates of 849 million pounds. Shares in the label were up 4.4 percent in early morning trading. The brand was upbeat on signs of recovery in October, with an improvement in comparable-store sales to -6 percent in the second quarter, from -45 percent in the first, boosted by strong double-digit growth in mainland China, Korea and the US. EMEIA, Japan and South Asia Pacific, on the other hand, remained affected by a significant reduction in tourism. Burberry beats revenue estimates Like most fashion companies, Burberry has been heavily impacted this year by Covid-19-related store closures and travel restrictions. As of now, more than 10 percent of its global stores are closed following the recent lockdowns in EMEIA. Burberry said due to its increase of “new and younger” consumers, it has decided to reduce markdowns which it says will cause “revenue headwinds” in the second half of the year - with the main impact in the third quarter - but will “serve the long term interest of the brand”. “Though the momentum we had built was disrupted by Covid-19 at the start of the year, we were quick to adapt, while making further progress against our strategy,” CEO Marco Gobbetti said in a statement. “While the virus continues to impact sales in EMEIA, Japan and South Asia Pacific, we are encouraged by our overall recovery and the strong response to our brand and product, particularly among new and younger customers. “In an environment which remains uncertain, we will continue to deliver exceptional products, localise plans and shift resources, while leveraging the strength of our digital platform to inspire customers.” Photo credit: Burberry
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LK Bennett prepares to launch CVA

British womenswear retailer LK Bennett is reportedly gearing up to launch a company voluntary arrangement (CVA) proposal which will see five of its stores permanently close and the rest move to turnover-based rents. The company employs 400 staff and has 18 standalone stores, all of which are currently closed under the UK’s new lockdown restrictions. The retailer said the CVA would result in a small number of job losses as the business attempts to “mitigate the ongoing financial impact of the Covid-19 pandemic”, Drapers reports. The company is being advised by restructuring firm Alvarez & Marsal. A long list of British fashion companies have launched CVAs in recent months as they struggle to cope with the impact of Covid-19, including New Look, AllSaints, Bair Group, Hotter Shoes and Monsoon Accessorize. LK Bennett to launch CVA amid difficult trading The retailer said its eventwear and workwear categories, which are usually among its best performing, have both been impacted by Covid-19, while a drop in tourism in London has also hit sales. The company said it doesn’t expect sales to fully recover until mid-2021, despite its “best efforts”. Founded in 1990, LK Bennett has been favoured by the Duchess of Cambridge and is well-known for its kitten heels. The retailer fell into administration in March 2019, after calling in advisers in February to examine options for the company. A month later, Chinese franchise partner Byland UK bought the UK, Irish and wholesale division of the company. In April this year, accountancy firm EY, which is overseeing the administration, extended the process by another year. Photo credit: LK Bennett, Facebook
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Ms Excel Manipulating Text String Formula Part 2

Is Adidas looking to offload Reebok?

When Adidas AG agreed to buy Reebok for 3.1 billion euros in 2006 it was to improve its position to challenge Nike, the world’s biggest sportswear brand. By acquiring Reebok, Adidas closed the gap to a “manageable” two billion euros. But Reebok hasn’t fended Nike off and Adidas is thought to be exploring an imminent sale. According to Bloomberg Adidas CEO Kasper Rorsted “has repeatedly parried rumours that he was looking to sell the brand. He closed under-performing Reebok stores and allowed some licensing deals to expire, cutting sales at the long unloved sporting label but cutting expenses even more.” The pandemic has been especially tough for Reebok, which saw revenue fall 42 percent compared to 33 percent at Adidas in the second quarter. Interested buyers are said to be VF Corp, which owns the newly acquired Supreme skater brand, North Face and Timberland, as well as Anta International Group Holdings from China. Reebok’s current value is likely to be 2 billion euros, with Germany’s Manager Magazin reporting Rorsted would accept even less. The publication also cited the purchase of Reebok as the most expensive mistake in Adidas’ history.
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Tech giants Alibaba and Tencent shares continue to fall

Chinese tech giants including Alibaba and Tencent tumbled for a second day Wednesday, after Beijing's market regulator put out draft antitrust rules that signalled a looming crackdown on high-flying internet giants. Rules published on Tuesday outlined plans to prevent "monopolistic behaviour" among internet companies, a shift from a previously more hands-off approach to antitrust issues. The timing of the announcement also raised eyebrows, coming on the eve of China's mammoth Singles' Day, the world's biggest shopping festival, which is propelled by Alibaba. Shares in the e-commerce titan dropped 9.8 percent in Hong Kong -- just a week after regulators halted an enormous IPO for the group's financial arm -- while tech rival Tencent slipped more than seven percent. Meanwhile, online shopping platform JD.com plunged more than nine percent, smartphone maker Xiaomi dived more than eight percent and food delivery firm Meituan was 9.7 percent lower. The losses followed massive drops for the firms on Tuesday. Dave Wang, portfolio manager at Nuvest Capital told AFP the authorities' move marks an "inflection point" for the sector. "The dominance of the big players may have reached a point that is making authorities feel uncomfortable," he said. "They are looking to reduce this dominance or at least keep it in check." The guidelines, put out by the State Administration for Market Regulation, take specific aim at internet platforms and issues such as exclusivity clauses that hinders competition. China's antitrust watchdog is also targeting acts constituting an "abuse of dominant market positions" that could squeeze out smaller rivals -- including unfair pricing, restricting transactions without justifiable reason, or pushing different prices and conditions on customers based on their buying habits. The move to force business partners to "pick one of two", therefore selling exclusively on one platform, is explicitly cited as a monopolistic practice as well. China's tech firms are known to have captive ecosystems. Alibaba's Taobao platform, for example, supports payments via its own Alipay rather than Tencent's WeChat Pay. Beijing has moved to clip the wings of its fast-growing online platforms, most recently halting a planned record-smashing $34 billion IPO of Ant Group -- Alibaba's financial arm. But Supun Walpola, equity analyst at LightStream Research, noted that even if the new rules affect companies' current operations, it does not "drastically" hit their core business models. "For instance, given its scale and penetration, I see no reason why Alibaba cannot be successful even without practices like data collaboration, price descrimination or exclusivity clauses," he said.(AFP)
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Is Adidas looking to offload Reebok?

When Adidas AG agreed to buy Reebok for 3.1 billion euros in 2006 it was to improve its position to challenge Nike, the world’s biggest sportswear brand. By acquiring Reebok, Adidas closed the gap to a “manageable” two billion euros. But Reebok hasn’t fended Nike off and Adidas is thought to be exploring an imminent sale. According to Bloomberg Adidas CEO Kasper Rorsted “has repeatedly parried rumours that he was looking to sell the brand. He closed under-performing Reebok stores and allowed some licensing deals to expire, cutting sales at the long unloved sporting label but cutting expenses even more.” The pandemic has been especially tough for Reebok, which saw revenue fall 42 percent compared to 33 percent at Adidas in the second quarter. Interested buyers are said to be VF Corp, which owns the newly acquired Supreme skater brand, North Face and Timberland, as well as Anta International Group Holdings from China. Reebok’s current value is likely to be 2 billion euros, with Germany’s Manager Magazin reporting Rorsted would accept even less. The publication also cited the purchase of Reebok as the most expensive mistake in Adidas’ history.
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Latino designer mixes social justice, preppy and Cholo influences

Having worked for Ralph Lauren and Kanye West, Willy Chavarria observed that men approach clothing “not as fashion but as a way to identify themselves.” His eponymous label, launched in 2015 and sold in Dover St Market and on Farfetch, is a culmination of three decades uniting career and life experience as a Latino gay man on the not-so-inclusive fashion stage. As a result he doesn’t shy away from addressing politics, uplifting the marginalized and critiquing the oppressor in his work. He considers the Willy Chavarria brand a complete expression of himself. In a candid conversation as part of the Joe’s Blackbook Sessions, he revealed some of the sources of his inspiration: “I love how Cholos dress because it’s a beautiful, dignified way of making cheap workwear apparel as an expression of who people really are, and subcultures taking clothing and making it their own.” Chavarria grew up in a small Mexican farming community in California’s San Joaquin Valley, far from the influences of fashion. But moving to a larger town exposed him to other cultures and he began to see the charm of mixing identities to nurture ideas: “Preppy with Chicano,” he muses. “I built a world in my head.” The Joe’s Blackbook Sessions regularly attract among attendees fashion students eager for tidbits of insider knowledge from the diverse range of guest speakers, and ticket sales for the Chavarria event are to be divided between the Joe’s Blackbook Scholarship which awards one menswear and one womenswear student annually with 10,000 dollars towards their final collections and Creatives Want Change, an organization which cultivates Black creative talent from high school onwards. Chavarria whose career began in the 80s but whose contemporary output couldn’t be more relevant or youth-centered has this advice for today’s emerging talent: “Starting at the bottom is the best thing you can do.” Successful Latino designer’s struggle for acceptance in corporate industry Sketches completed during spare time at his first internship gained notice and he was tasked with cutting and pasting print designs together for faxing to factories in China. But he was also expected to empty his boss’s ashtrays. Of success, he says, “There’s a certain percentage of luck, and there’s this other percentage of will and drive.” His career has depended on a combination of both. While working in a West Coast cycling apparel firm during the 90s, he fulfilled contracted work for Ralph Lauren which led to the designer inviting Chavarria to NYC to work on the soon-to-be-launched RLX line. Although overwhelmed, he rose through the ranks to become responsible for all menswear print and pattern within the company. “There is the fact that people of color have to work a little bit harder,” says Chavarria of this baptism of fire. He fought anxiety to convince himself that he belonged at Ralph Lauren and offers this counsel to today’s underrepresented creatives stepping into the corporate space: “Our place is just as valid as anyone else’s. The more challenges you want to take, the more anxiety you will have.” Now based half the time in Copenhagen where he extols the benefits of that society’s model despite having to pay more in taxes, Chavarria has earned his stripes within the American corporate establishment. But the successes of the latter half of his career stem from exclusively following his instincts. “Working with Kanye came from me doing my own thing and him taking notice,” he says. “He reached out and it’s been fantastic.” He considers it a privilege to be able to have a fashion business through which his voice can be heard. “If you’re not thinking politically, you’re really not thinking.” Fashion editor Jackie Mallon is also an educator and author of Silk for the Feed Dogs, a novel set in the international fashion industry. Photos WillyChavarria.com
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Indian antitrust watchdog has ordered a probe into Google's payments app

India's antitrust watchdog has ordered an investigation into Google's payments app over allegations the tech giant is abusing its market dominance. The Competition Commission of India said it was investigating allegations the California-based company "rigged" featured app lists to include Google Pay, "demonstrating clear bias". The ombudsman is also looking into a Google plan - to start from March 2022 - that requires some developers to pay a 30 percent commission on in-app purchases. The move has sparked an outcry in India. The case was filed by an anonymous complainant, the commission said, adding that its investigations unit would submit a report within 60 days. Google has denied the allegations, and in a statement said its payments app was successful because it offers consumers a "simple and secure" experience. Google Pay uses India's Unified Payments Interface (UPI), which manages payment apps with over 140 Indian banks that are part of the network. UPI is also used by Walmart's PhonePe and the Alibaba-backed Paytm. The three dominate India's digital payments market. UPI processed nearly 11 billion transactions in 2019, with a monthly rate of 31 billion dollars in February leading to an annualised payment value of 373 billion dollars this year, according to S&P Global. Google's Android mobile operating system is by far the dominant player in India, supporting 99 percent of all smartphones, according to the research agency Counterpoint. Analysts have said having such a widely used operating system could make it easier for Google to control the market, a claim the Silicon Valley firm denies.(AFP)
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EyeBuyDirect collaborates with Tan France

EyeBuyDirect and Queer Eye star Tan France have partnered to curate “Tan’s Favorites,” a holiday collection fit for virtual parties and holiday gatherings. Sharing his vision for the perfect holiday season, France chose 60 of his favorite frames, including new bejeweled eyewear, that can be customized with or without prescription lenses, colored lenses or blue light protection that will help consumers express their unique style.  “I truly believe that when you look good you feel good, and given the challenges we have all faced this year, it was important for me to curate a collection that can help people feel their absolute best as they celebrate the holidays,” said France in a statement. “If you’re looking to go bold and festive this season, I would suggest the bejeweled frames. They work perfectly with any colorful outfit or print pattern.” “Tan’s Favorites” mixes statement-making frames with classic styles, offering a variety of options for any face shape or personality. Highlights from the collection include Diamond, a women’s bejeweled cat-eye style with a clear frame, Theory a men’s rounded frame in warm tortoise, Aura, a women’s rounded style with a translucent frame in champagne, and Barnaby, a men’s rectangular frame in teal. Along with eyeglasses, which are available starting today, consumers can also add eyeglass chains to their purchase at checkout to complete their look. All eyewear will be shipped in boxes featuring a new holiday-themed design.  “We know this holiday season will be very different for many of us but coming together and doing something for the well-being of others will make it a little brighter,” said Sunny Jiang, CEO of EyeBuyDirect, in a statement. “At EyeBuyDirect, we believe in caring for communities around the world and giving back, especially during these challenging times. We’re very proud to include ‘Tan’s Favorites’ as part of our Buy 1, Give 1 program, which gives consumers a chance to donate a pair of glasses with each order to someone in need.” Celebrity collaborations continue to be a sweet spot for fashion brands. With France’s 3.9 million Instagram followers, he is sure to be able to push this collection to success through his social media channels. photo: via EyeBuyDirect
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Marc Jacobs and Nirvana continue legal battle

Marc Jacobs International ongoing legal battle with Nirvana over the copyright infringement of the smiley face image continues on. Marc Jacobs’ lawyers have called for a summary judgement in the case, meaning a judge will make a decision before it even goes to trial. The specific image in question is the famous Nirvana smiley face with Xs for eyes and a smile with a tongue sticking out. The image is often featured on Nirvana merchandise, and while the association with Nirvana is always immediate, the image was never registered property as a copyright for Nirvana. This left it open for other companies and brands to use. One of the big issues addresses in the case, which the Nirvana estate is claiming, is that Kurt Cobain designed the logo, therefore they have the intellectual property rights. However, the logo was actually designed by art director Robert Fisher, according to Marc Jacobs lawyers, and he never transferred the intellectual property rights to Nirvana or any other party. Fisher worked for Geffen Records, which was Nirvana’s label, and while he submitted testimony detailing his process in creating the logo, Marc Jacobs’ legal team argued that it’s not similar enough to the interpretation of the smiley face the designer used on his merchandise since the eyes were changed to Marc Jacobs’ initials instead. One of Nirvana’s lawyers rejected these arguments and said they will continue pursuing this legally. The lawsuit dates back to December 2018 when Nirvana sued Marc Jacobs for the similar logo saying Cobain created the logo in 1991. Marc Jacobs legal team began tanking these arguments when founding members of Nirvana claimed that this image had been around and they didn’t know who made it. It’s very possible this could be settled out of court before it goes to trial. Marc Jacobs did admit that his design was Nirvana inspired. photos: via marcjacobs.com
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Marc Jacobs and Nirvana continue legal battle

Marc Jacobs International ongoing legal battle with Nirvana over the copyright infringement of the smiley face image continues on. Marc Jacobs’ lawyers have called for a summary judgement in the case, meaning a judge will make a decision before it even goes to trial. The specific image in question is the famous Nirvana smiley face with Xs for eyes and a smile with a tongue sticking out. The image is often featured on Nirvana merchandise, and while the association with Nirvana is always immediate, the image was never registered property as a copyright for Nirvana. This left it open for other companies and brands to use. One of the big issues addresses in the case, which the Nirvana estate is claiming, is that Kurt Cobain designed the logo, therefore they have the intellectual property rights. However, the logo was actually designed by art director Robert Fisher, according to Marc Jacobs lawyers, and he never transferred the intellectual property rights to Nirvana or any other party. Fisher worked for Geffen Records, which was Nirvana’s label, and while he submitted testimony detailing his process in creating the logo, Marc Jacobs’ legal team argued that it’s not similar enough to the interpretation of the smiley face the designer used on his merchandise since the eyes were changed to Marc Jacobs’ initials instead. One of Nirvana’s lawyers rejected these arguments and said they will continue pursuing this legally. The lawsuit dates back to December 2018 when Nirvana sued Marc Jacobs for the similar logo saying Cobain created the logo in 1991. Marc Jacobs legal team began tanking these arguments when founding members of Nirvana claimed that this image had been around and they didn’t know who made it. It’s very possible this could be settled out of court before it goes to trial. Marc Jacobs did admit that his design was Nirvana inspired. photos: via marcjacobs.com
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Edinburgh Woollen Mill falls into administration

Edinburgh Woollen Mill (EWM) has fallen into administration, putting thousands of jobs at risk. The fashion retailer has 384 stores and 2,571 staff across the UK. Owner EWM Group has also put its homeware chain Ponden Home, which had 73 stores and 329 employees, into administration. Administrators from FRP Advisory said Friday that 56 Edinburgh Woollen Mill stores and eight Ponden Home stores have permanently closed in recent weeks. The rest will continue to trade online and in stores subject to Covid-19 restrictions. EMW enters administration On appointment, 750 roles at EWM and 116 at Ponden Home were made redundant. EWM Group is attempting to save its remaining brands, Peacocks and Jaeger. “Recent months have proven extremely challenging for many retailers, even those that were trading well before the pandemic, including the teams at Edinburgh Woollen Mill and Ponden Home,” said Tony Wright, joint administrator from FRP. “The administrations will provide some further protection while we continue our search for buyers to secure the long-term futures for both businesses. “Regrettably, the impact of Covid-19 on the brands' core customer base and tighter restrictions on trading mean that the current structure of the businesses is unsustainable and has resulted in redundancies,” Wright said. “We are working with all affected members of staff to provide the appropriate support.” Photo credit: Jaeger, Facebook
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Edinburgh Woollen Mill falls into administration

Edinburgh Woollen Mill (EWM) has fallen into administration, putting thousands of jobs at risk. The fashion retailer has 384 stores and 2,571 staff across the UK. Owner EWM Group has also put its homeware chain Ponden Home, which had 73 stores and 329 employees, into administration. Administrators from FRP Advisory said Friday that 56 Edinburgh Woollen Mill stores and eight Ponden Home stores have permanently closed in recent weeks. The rest will continue to trade online and in stores subject to Covid-19 restrictions. EMW enters administration On appointment, 750 roles at EWM and 116 at Ponden Home were made redundant. EWM Group is attempting to save its remaining brands, Peacocks and Jaeger. “Recent months have proven extremely challenging for many retailers, even those that were trading well before the pandemic, including the teams at Edinburgh Woollen Mill and Ponden Home,” said Tony Wright, joint administrator from FRP. “The administrations will provide some further protection while we continue our search for buyers to secure the long-term futures for both businesses. “Regrettably, the impact of Covid-19 on the brands' core customer base and tighter restrictions on trading mean that the current structure of the businesses is unsustainable and has resulted in redundancies,” Wright said. “We are working with all affected members of staff to provide the appropriate support.” Photo credit: Jaeger, Facebook
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Richemont H1 profit drops as Covid-19 hits sales

In the six month period under review, Richemont said, trading was significantly impacted by the worldwide spread of the Covid-19 pandemic and its resulting negative impact on trading conditions. Sales decreased by 26 percent at actual exchange rates and by 25 percent at constant exchange rates to 5.5 billion euros. The company added that as lockdown restrictions were eased, sentiment and sales momentum gradually improved, and the decline in sales for the second quarter was limited to 5 percent at actual exchange rates and 2 percent at constant exchange rates. Gross profit decreased by 31 percent to 3,165 million euros and gross margin stood at 57.8 percent, operating profit contracted by 61 percent to 452 million euros, resulting in an operating margin of 8.3 percent, profit amounted to 159 million euros, a 710 million euros decline and earnings per share decreased by 82 percent to 0.281 euros on a diluted basis. “Throughout the first six months of our financial year, the Covid-19 pandemic impacted our trading and operations with unprecedented levels of disruption. All regions, channels and business areas were affected, notwithstanding a 78 percent increase in China versus the prior year period at actual exchange rates. Although the pandemic has hampered sentiment and demand around the world, we have continued to make good headway on key digital initiatives and further advance on our journey towards New Retail,” said Johann Rupert, Chairman of Compagnie Financière Richemont SA in a statement Richemont reports sales decline across core geographies For the first half of the fiscal year, the company said, Europe recorded the highest rate of decline alongside Japan, with sales down 44 percent year-on-year. France, Italy, Switzerland and the United Kingdom were particularly affected by a significantly lower level of tourist activity, as were the Jewellery Maisons, Specialist Watchmakers and Fashion & Accessories Maisons. Online Distributors, although initially impacted by temporary fulfilment centre closures, showed the most resilient performance. Compared to retail and wholesale sales, which contracted at significant double-digit rates, online retail sales fared better, with a high-single digit decline. The contribution of Europe to group sales was reduced to 22 percent from 30 percent in the prior year period. In Asia Pacific, the year-on-year decline in sales was contained to 4 percent as the sales momentum significantly improved in the second quarter of the financial year with strong double-digit growth. All markets registered lower sales for the half year with the exception of China, where sales rose by 83 percent. From the month of July, sales growth in Asia Pacific resumed. The region raised its contribution to group sales from 37 percent in the prior year period to 47 percent. For the six month period under review, the Americas region posted a 31 percent reduction in sales. All channels saw lower sales including online retail sales which decreased by a low-single digit rate overall. Of note, when excluding The region’s contribution to group sales was reduced from 18 percent to 16 percent. In Japan, the 44 percent decrease in sales reflected the impact of Covid-19 with temporary closures, weak domestic consumer confidence and a halt in tourism. The country represented 7 percent of overall sales, compared to 9 percent in the prior year period. Sales in the Middle East and Africa were 5 percent lower than the prior year period. The contribution of Middle East and Africa to Group sales increased from 6 percent in the prior year period to 8 percent. Richemont’s retail channels witness a sales decline The company added that the 22 percent decrease in retail sales reflects the severe disruption due to Covid-19. The Maisons’ 1,179 directly operated boutiques contributed 53 percent of group sales, compared to 52 percent in the prior year period. Notwithstanding the temporary closure of the Online Distributors’ fulfilment centres due to Covid-19 in the first quarter of the financial year, the decline in sales was limited to 3 percent, supported by a 17 percent rebound in sales in the second quarter. In the first half of the financial year, Asia Pacific, particularly China with triple digit online retail sales growth, and the Middle East and Africa showed strong growth. The wholesale channel was the most affected by the global pandemic. Wholesale sales including royalty income contracted by 42 percent versus the prior year period, impacted by temporary points of sale closures, social unrest in key markets and low to no footfall at airports’ duty free shops. For the period, Richemont said, sales at the jewellery maisons were 18 percent lower than in the comparative period. Following a drop of 41 percent for the first quarter of the financial year, sales returned to positive territory, with 4 percent growth in the second quarter. Mid-single digit sales growth in Asia Pacific and high-single digit sales progression in the Middle East and Africa partly offset a marked contraction in the other regions, which were severely impacted by temporary closures of stores, a halt in tourism, social tension and muted consumer confidence. Sales at the Specialist Watchmakers were 38 percent lower than in the prior year period, particularly impacted by the Covid-19 pandemic and their strong reliance on multibrand retail partners. The rate of sales decline moderated from 56 percent in the first quarter to 18 percent in the second quarter, supported by a strong performance in China. Wholesale sales contracted more than retail sales, while online retail sales grew by triple digits driven by participation in online initiatives such as the Watch Show on the Cloud and Watches & Wonders Shanghai, which introduced their creations to the Chinese market, as well as by the opening of flagship stores for IWC Schaffhausen, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Piaget and Vacheron Constantin on Tmall Luxury Pavilion. Online Distributors reported a 21 percent decrease in sales, while in the second quarter, sales increased by 2 percent. ‘Other’ including the Fashion and Accessories Maisons and the group’s watch component manufacturing activities reported sales decrease by 42 percent for the period, reflecting a decline of 59 percent in the first quarter and 24 percent in the second quarter. Picture:Olaf Tamm, Hamburg Germany for Richemont
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