DIESEL Fall 20: UNFORGETTABLE DENIM CAMPAIGN

DIESEL Presents “Unforgettable Denim” A New DIESEL Story for a History-Making Season: Fall 2020 Breganze, Italy - September - DIESEL announces the launch of its Fall 2020 campaign, which is rooted into one of denim’s key, longstanding elements: memory. Denim gets better with experience and becomes a sort of wearable record of the times you’ve had. The pen marks on the pocket? Doodles during a long flight to a faraway location. The scrape at the hem? From a night spent partying in Berlin. Denim collects these moments no matter what; not even 2020 can cancel a great pair of jeans. In what has been a generation-defining year, DIESEL invites people—the world over—to celebrate the beautiful memories made in lieu of the plans that had to be put on hold, and wear these unexpected highlights with pride. For all the trips, events, parties, plans, ceremonies and more that could not take place in 2020, we are finding the opportunity to tell the surprise stories the connections that were made, the fun that was had, and the positive silver linings. At the center of the Fall 2020 campaign is DIESEL’s new customizable denim collection. Through a special portal on www.diesel.com—and in select stores worldwide—clients will be able to personalize the leather tags on denim with something they could not participate this year. The intention is to commemorate what they did not do, and the memory-making moments that ensued in the absence of those plans. A birthday party called off? Celebrate it by remembering it. A surf trip postponed? Create a keepsake for what might have been and use it as inspiration to plan for a later date – always with your favorite, unforgettable denim. The platform is multi-subject: dozens of video clips, with real life anecdotes, directed by Pantera of the group Anonymous Content, will live online and on social media. Key visuals have been created by JP Bonino and will feature DIESEL watches and eyewear in addition to ready-to-wear. The 2-month platform will follow the stories of various talents, influential figures including Evan Mock, the skateboarder and model. Normally a resident of New York City, he chose to enter isolation in Mallorca, Spain, reconnecting with nature. Julia Fox, an Italian-American actress, found unexpectedly restored love during lockdown. Donte Colley looked inward and became more active in fighting for what’s right. These individuals were photographed by RAYSCORRUPTEDMIND. And it doesn't stop here: DIESEL is also partnering with different canceled events, like UNTOLD Festival, one of the most renowned music festivals in the world, to create a series of limited-edition denim trousers called the 2020 Fallen Edition. UNTOLD has won the award for Best Major Festival in Europe from its inception. In a “normal” year, it is visited by more than 350,000 fans from across the globe. Those fans will hold 2020’s edition in their imagination – and in a pair of customized Diesel jeans. The creative concept and production of this campaign was provided by Publicis Italy.
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Vivienne Westwood returns to profit in 2019

British luxury label Vivienne Westwood has reported a profit of 2.7 million pounds for 2019, compared to a loss of 2.5 million pounds the year before. Turnover at the fashion house increased by 19 percent to 46 million pounds for the year ended 31 December 2019, while retail sales and wholesale sales were up 10 percent and 59 percent, respectively. The company said 2019 still proved challenging, with cash flow diving partly due to marketing contribution to related parties. It also said that margins are “sill under pressure due to the nature of wider retail conditions”. It said that it was looking at alleviating this by reviewing pricing to improve gross profit margins. While these figures pre-dated the pandemic, the label did comment on its effect. “The company experienced the profound impact of the Covid-19 pandemic,” it said in its filing to Companies House. “The full effect on the business is still unknown but the company believes its cash reserves and careful cash flow management will mitigate any major repercussions.” The company is also said it is “undergoing a strategic review to create a new operating structure” that will allow it “to optimise processes and the overall efficiency of the business”. Photo: Vivienne Westwood Selfridges pop-up, courtesy of Selfridges
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Ex-Hermes staff convicted for fake handbags

A Paris court on Thursday convicted 10 people, including seven former staff of French luxury house Hermes, for making and selling fake handbags under its coveted Birkin brand. They were handed sentences ranging from six months suspended jail to three years with one year suspended. The highest sentence went to a man considered to be a ringleader, who was also fined 200,000 euros (dollars 233,000). He was tried in absentia however, and is still the target of an arrest warrant. Another ringleader was given an effective one-year sentence, to be served under house arrest, with two more years suspended and a fine of 100,000 euros. A woman who was convicted of selling the bags to Asian buyers was given a 30-month sentence with 20 months suspended. Her 10 months will also be served under house arrest. The network, which targeted Asian tourists in Paris but also clients in Hong Kong in 2013 and 2014, was uncovered when French police wiretapped the home of a man suspected of selling stolen handbags in Asia. An inquiry uncovered a clandestine operation in which the suspects at their homes crafted dozens of counterfeit "Birkin" bags, the most coveted -- and profitable -- item produced by Hermes. Named for French-British actress Jane Birkin, the bags have long waiting lists for customers ready to pay 40,000 euros (dollars 47,000) or more for versions made with crocodile skin. Prosecutors said the gang took in about two million euros a year by selling the fakes for between 20,000 euros and 30,000 euros each. The Hermes workers would make the bags with crocodile skins from an Italian supplier, using zippers and other components smuggled out of Hermes workshops.(AFP)
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Suit Direct opens Birmingham flagship store, eyes further expansion

Formalwear retailer Suit Direct is to begin an ambitious expansion plan after opening a new flagship store in Birmingham this week. The company, which is part of the Baird Group, is looking to open 10 city-centre stores by the end of 2020 and up to 25 stores within the next 18 months, The Business Desk reports. “With a focus on greater innovation, especially through bringing life to our digital proposition, offering quality brands and a premium, customer-focused, shopping experience we’re looking to bring back the joy of buying and wearing suits whether it be casual, in the office and more in more formal environments,” said Suit Direct retail director Amanda Argent. “The Birmingham store will be the first store to open in a series of new standalone stores across the UK and marks a new era in the brand’s direction as we set our sights on further expansion on the UK high street.” Suit Direct bucks high street trend, plans expansion The formalwear category has been significantly impacted by Covid-19, with the cancellation of large events such as weddings and the Royal Ascot dealing major blows to sales. In August, Moss Bros called in advisory firm KPMG to work on a potential CVA which could lead to store closures and rent cuts, while in the same month Brooks Brothers was acquired by Authentics Brands Group after going bankrupt in July. Also in July, it was revealed British menswear retailer TM Lewin would permanently close all 66 of its stores after falling into administration. So this latest move by Suit Direct is a significant sign of confidence in an otherwise uncertain sector. In August, Baird Group, the license holder of Suit Direct and Ben Sherman, received approval from its creditors to go ahead with a company voluntary arrangement (CVA). Around 94 percent of all voting creditors approved the CVA, which was put forward on 23 July 2020. Under the proposal, 18 stores, one warehouse and one office will be closed, and 264 employees will lose their jobs across retail and distribution, mainly those working at Debenhams concessions. A further 29 stores will see a reduction and phased rebuild of base rent. Photo credit: Suit Direct, Facebook
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Armani and Prada: Fashion houses embracing the digital format in Milan

Never before had Miuccia Prada seen so many people at one of her fashion shows. Of course, they were all watching from their computers. "Now we are with so many more people, and that's new, at least for me," said Prada on Thursday, following her digital show on the second day of Milan Fashion Week. The top Italian fashion brand, known for its subdued, darkly hued garments, shoes and handbags, is one of many presenting virtual fashion shows this season in Milan, as coronavirus cases continue to rise throughout Europe. The spring/summer 2021 collection was the debut Prada show for Raf Simons, the Belgian designer tapped as Prada's co-creative director in February. "It's a strange situation, it's my first show with Raf Simons and instead of being here with our friends in the industry, all our community, we are alone," Prada said in filmed comments, with Simons seated at her side. "But in fact what is really exciting is we're not alone at all," she said. The industry, which has been shaken by the coronavirus pandemic, is betting big on digital to rethink fashion as the virus continues to weigh on sales. The luxury houses showing at Milan are embracing the digital format like never before: shows are presented on TikTok, Instagram TV, YouTube or on dedicated mini-sites, like the one created by the house of Armani to present the new collection of its Emporio line. "During the lockdown we realised, mainly I realised, how important technology is and how it's impactful for us," Prada said, adding that with the film format "we hope you can enjoy and see the clothes better." Sector in crisis Fashion Week is a key moment for business. "Fashion is the second-largest industrial sector in Italy and the peninsula produces 41 percent of the European Union's fashion turnover," said the president of the Fashion Chamber, Carlo Capasa, during the presentation of Fashion Week. But the Italian market lost a third of its sales in the first half of the year. Despite clear signs of recovery in China, a top market for luxury goods, uncertainty persists due to a second wave of the virus and the tightening of containment measures in many countries, which are slowing orders from retailers with a domino effect on the entire sector. With the bulk of international buyers unable to attend the shows due to travel restrictions, the brands have adapted: in the showroom, mannequins sport the new looks and personalised virtual appointments are offered. "Digital does not replace the emotion of the physical show, but it is thanks to digital that the sector is maintaining itself," said Capasa.(AFP) Images: Prada SS21
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Study: 158,000 jobs and 13,000 apparel and textile companies could disappear by 2021

INTERVIEW An unprecedented disruption of retail, production and trade like the current one could send the European textile and apparel industry into a tailspin. In its recent report “Bruised but not beaten, Europe’s textile industry is a perfect candidate for a greener and digital recovery”, credit insurance company Euler Hermes predicts turnover to fall by 19 percent in 2020 and up to 8 percent of total industry employment and 6 percent of companies - about 158,000 jobs and 13,000 companies - to disappear by the end of 2021. FashionUnited wanted to know more about this grim prediction and talked to one of the study authors, Aurélien Duthoit, Euler Hermes’ sector lead for retail, technology & household. Collecting and analysing EuroStat data for different European countries and correlating it with employing data and looking at past recessions, Euler Hermes arrived at the figure of potentially 158,000 being lost and about 13,000 companies having to give up, despite the major relief provided by the various job-retention schemes and abundant funding. The good news is that by next year itself, things could considerably improve: “We expect turnover to bounce back by about +15 percent in 2021 and return to pre-crisis levels only in 2023, assuming a progressive easing of the global sanitary emergency and substantial fiscal and monetary support to the economy,” finds the report. Clothing retail worst affected While technical textiles - for example those used in the aerospace sector - have been affected by the slump, it is the fashion sector, which relies on consumer spending and consumer confidence, that is affected more. “Looking at clothing retail, it is currently the worst affected. We are not seeing a strong rebound as with other products like furniture, computers and smartphones,” confirms Duthoit after checking recent data. While strong European economies like the UK, France, Italy and Germany are still deep in the red, the latter two could recover faster with Germany having had a less dramatic start to 2020 than other countries and Italy relying on a huge trade network that includes Europe and Africa apart from Asia. Import substitution is another keyword: “A 10 percent decrease in French and German imports of apparel would represent the equivalent of an 8 percent boost in European apparel manufacturing turnover. Efforts to encourage a transition from linear to circular manufacturing practices could also yield substantial opportunities for the local manufacturing base,” so the report. For fashion, the problem seems to be the consumer sentiment, there is less of a mood to buy it, at least to the extent as before. “In the Netherlands, there was no closure of non-essential stores but fashion sales were down by 19 procent for January through July. Fashion is the only segment of retail that is still negative,” says Duthoit, adding that “more precise information is needed to determine the sector’s medium-term potential.” Is digitisation the answer? The big question is how the fashion industry can indeed come out of the slump. “For the areas that could provide some relief - sustainability, digital - there are medium-term challenges. Also, the wider economy needs to return to normal and that will not happen till 2022,” predicts Duthoit. “The Internet is not enough to compensate for the crisis,” he cautions, pointing to online retail figures that, though they are booming - with a plus of 16-17 percent year-on-year in Germany, for example - they cannot fill the void left by missing retail sales in stores. “This is true even for early adopters of online strategies like Zara; though an online presence was there during the lockdown, it was not enough to make up for lost in-store sales. In addition, return rates are high and despite online growth success, this prevents profitability.” Last but not least, given that sustainability is hailed as the need of the hour, how likely is it that the textile industry will indeed become greener and not just go back to old patterns? “This would be coming from new companies,” says Duthoit. “It is happening in France with very specific products or those that are 100 percent made in France.” Is a greener textile industry likely in the future? A greener textile industry would place greater emphasis on quality rather than quantity, finds the report, and points to the case of Italy, where the aligned interests of consumers, retailers and manufacturers have allowed the country to keep a preference for more expensive, yet higher quality and locally made apparel, which sets an example for the rest of the region. “For established players, becoming more sustainable is hard because that would require business model innovation. Especially for fast fashion, which relies on volume and may try to incorporate more recycled fibres, but the textile industry is at the very early stages when it comes to organic fibres and usings standards like Oeko-Tex and others. Shifting business models cannot happen overnight. Thus, the ‘greenification’ of the industry is coming from new players,” sums up Duthoit. Images: Euler Hermes
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Paris exhibition shows how Man Ray made fashion an art

He is one of the 20th century's most famous artists, but not many people know that Man Ray got his start as a fashion photographer. A new exhibition in Paris sets out to uncover the fashion world roots of the American surrealist, who first made his name taking flattering portraits of the rich and famous. Like many young artists Emmanuel Radnitzky, as Man Ray was then known, had trouble making ends meet when he arrived in Paris in 1920 to plunge himself into the Dadaist movement. But the new show "Man Ray and Fashion" at the Luxembourg museum in the French capital sets out how his time as chronicler of the style stars of the Roaring Twenties shaped his art. Encouraged by the couturier Paul Poiret -- the Karl Lagerfeld of his time -- the artist began to work for magazines like Vogue, Femina and Vanity Fair. Fashion historian Catherine Ormen, who curated the show, said magazines at the time never used photos of clothes for fear that designs would be copied. Instead they printed sketches while Man Ray photographed stylish celebrities for them. But the artist was not content with producing glossy images of Parisian socialites. Glamour and tears "With Man Ray you start with nothing and end with photographs that are almost abstract and works of art," she told AFP. Indeed one of his masterpieces, "Glass Tears" (1932), came from an advertising campaign for water resistant mascara. He transformed the rather banal image using his trademark photomontage techniques which he later christened "rayographs". The iconic image also spoke of Man Ray's own anger and hurt after his split with the photographer and model, Lee Miller. The following year he became a permanent fixture in the US fashion magazine Harper's Bazaar, where the precursor of the Photoshop generation brought his abstract and surrealist experiments to a still wider public. Among the other well-known images in the show is his famous portrait of the designer Coco Chanel in profile, her hands in her pockets and a cigarette in her mouth. It also shines a light on the style revolution of the 1920s, when women's fashion threw off Victorian restrains to embrace freedom of movement, only to slip back to more formal attire in the 1930s, when fashionistas would change their clothes, hairstyles and even nail colours up to three times a day. The show, which runs until January 17, is the first time the Luxembourg museum -- which is better known for Old Masters shows -- has tackled fashion.(AFP)
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Kingpins to launch digital denim sourcing platform in October

Denim trade show Kingpins is set to launch Kingpins Exchange, a new digital hub for denim sourcing professionals. Created in partnership with leading sourcing platform Material Exchange, Kingpins Exchange is a digital showroom platform and material marketplace looking to bring together denim mills, buyers and brands. The Kingpins Exchange will launch in late October on the Kingpins Show website. It follows the launch in April of Kingpins24, a digital version of the Kingpins trade show that replaced the physical event cancelled due to Covid-19. Kingpins founder Andrew Olah said the decision to launch Kingpins Exchange followed requests from denim mills to have similar digital platforms with more of a focus on sourcing. “From buyers we heard of the difficulties in keeping track of all the different tools, platforms and techniques supply chain members were using to market and sell their products to them,” Olah said. “We realized the industry needed a comprehensive digital solution that served both these groups very much in the way that our physical events have historically done: by creating a central destination for denim sourcing that also functions as a beautiful and effective platform upon which denim suppliers could tell their stories and sell their products. “Our solution is Kingpins Exchange – something we think of as a Kingpins Show that is available to buyers around the clock, all year long.” Photo credit: Kingpins24
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Laybuy launches partner programme as BNPL growth increases

Laybuy, has launched a global partner programme to provide retailers a more flexible, interest-free payment option at the checkout. The ‘buy now, pay later’ (BNPL) service is offered by more than 6,000 merchants and its new partner programme is designed to ensure retailers can capitalise on the demand for its services. The Worldpay from FIS 2020 Global Payments Report data found that e-commerce has increased by 13 percent in the UK. The data also reported that BNPL options are rising to 39 percent in the UK, and if this growth continues it could double the market share of online purchases in the country by 2023. Gary Rohloff, Laybuy’s co-founder and managing director, said in a statement: “Buy now, pay later is proving to be a huge hit with consumers who want better, more flexible and interest-free payment options. Together with our partners, we’re enabling UK retailers, large and small, to offer their customers this smarter way to pay.” The service is provided by brands such as Boohoo, JD Sports, Toni&Guy and The Hut Group, as well as others. To date, Laybuy’s retail partners have seen order values rise by up to 70 percent, online and in-store conversion rates have increased by 50 percent and new customer acquisition rise by 30 percent. Photo credit: Laybuy, Facebook
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Nike's online sales surge 82 percent, posts rise in profit

For its first quarter, Nike, Inc. reported revenues of 10.6 billion dollars, down 1 percent on a reported basis and flat to prior year on a currency-neutral basis. The company said in a statement that Nike Direct sales were 3.7 billion dollars, up 12 percent on a reported basis, and up 13 percent on a currency-neutral basis, with growth across all geographies, while Nike brand digital sales increased 82 percent, or 83 percent on a currency-neutral basis, with double-digit increases across North America, Greater China, and APLA and triple-digit growth in EMEA. Diluted earnings per share were 95 cents, up 10 percent. “Our results this quarter continue to demonstrate Nike’s full competitive advantage, as we strengthen our position in the midst of disruption,” said John Donahoe, President and CEO, Nike, Inc. Review of Nike’s first quarter results The company added that the first quarter revenue performance was impacted by strong Nike brand digital growth, offset by lower revenue in wholesale business and Nike-owned stores. Despite a majority of stores open in the quarter, Nike continued to experience year-over-year declines in physical retail traffic across the marketplace due to Covid-19 impacts and safety related measures, offset partially by higher conversion rates. EMEA returned to growth of 5 percent on a reported basis, led by triple-digit growth in digital, while Greater China revenue increased by 6 percent on a reported basis and 8 percent on a currency-neutral basis, led by digital and Nike Factory Stores. Revenues for the Nike brand were 10 billion dollars, flat to prior year on a currency-neutral basis driven by double-digit growth in Nike Direct, as well as growth in sportswear and the Jordan brand, offset by declines in the wholesale business. Revenues for Converse were 563 million dollars, up 2 percent on a currency-neutral basis, driven by strong demand in Europe and in digital, globally. Gross margin for the quarter decreased 90 basis points to 44.8 percent, while net income was 1.5 billion dollars, up 11 percent and diluted earnings per share were 95 cents, increasing 10 percent. Picture:Nike media resources
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Kenzo and WWF partner up to work towards TX2 global goal

During lockdown, many were kept entertained by the ‘Tiger King’ documentary on Netflix. However, after the characters and plot is stripped back, what the viewers were left with was the mistreatment of tigers. A century ago there may have been 100,000 wild tigers, however, in 2010 numbers declined to an estimated 3,200 tigers. With a global effort, this number has been brought up to 3,900 in 2016, according to Kenzo. Clothing brand, Kenzo, has partnered up with the World Wildlife Fund (WWF) until 2022, to double the number of tigers in the wild by 2020, which is the next Year of the Tiger in the Chinese zodiac calendar. Kenzo has created a capsule collection in homage to the tiger, which ranges from t-shirts, sweatshirts and sweatshirt dresses, all made from 100 percent organic cotton and is certified by the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS). For each piece of the collection sold, Kenzo will donate 10 dollars towards the TX2 global goal, which is the ambitious timeline set to double the number of tigers from 2010 by 2022. This partnership also will work to improve the sustainability of their cotton supply chain and freshwater footprint. Photo credit: Kenzo
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Sneaker platform Goat teams up with Michael B. Jordan for charity raffle

Sneaker platform Goat has partnered with Black Panther actor Michael B. Jordan to raffle off five exclusive pairs of sneakers, with all proceeds going to GirlTrek, a public health nonprofit for African-American women and girls in the US. The sneakers have been customized by artist Dominic Chambrone - also known as ‘The Shoe Surgeon’ - and reinvent some of Jordan's favorite silhouettes based on his most loved films: Nightmare Before Christmas, Casino, Sandlot, Coming To America and Last Dragon. “I'm excited to partner with Goat to showcase my custom kicks to a community that loves sneakers as much as I do,” Jordan said in a statement. “More importantly, I'm excited to help bring awareness to the health movement amongst African-American women, a cause that's close to me and my family.” Participants can enter by buying raffle tickets on the Goat app and Goat.com from 21 to 27 September. Winners will be announced the following day. “Goat has always supported and admired individuals who use their platform for a cause such as this initiative being led by Michael B. Jordan,” said Goat Group co-founder and CEO Eddy Lu. “Michael is deeply involved within the community and we're honored to partner with him on this project, which is intended to help empower African-American women and girls and enable them to be their greatest.” Photo credit: Goat
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Tiffany wins court approval to fast-track lawsuit against LVMH

US jewelry brand Tiffany & Co has won approval by the Delaware Chancery Court to have its lawsuit against french conglomerate LVMH fast-tracked. The lawsuit was launched by the jeweler after LVMH said in September it was pulling out of its 16 billion dollar deal to acquire Tiffany. LVMH said its board had made the decision following “a succession of events which undermine the acquisition of Tiffany & Co,” notably US threats to slap tariffs on French products. But Tiffany accused the luxury group of deliberately stalling the deal. Shortly after, LVMH said it would counter-sue Tiffany, accusing it of “dishonesty”. LVMH said it was “surprised” by the lawsuit filed by Tiffany. The court has now set January 5, 2021 to begin a four-day trial. Chairman of the Tiffany board Roger Farah said in a statement: “We appreciate the court’s ruling today to expedite the process. Despite LVMH’s ongoing efforts to avoid paying the agreed-upon price for Tiffany, a trial on January 5, 2021 will hopefully lead to a ruling prior to the expiration of U.S. antitrust clearance on February 3, 2021 and enable us to protect our company and our shareholders. “We will demonstrate to the Court that LVMH is in clear breach of its obligations under a valid and binding agreement and that their claim of a Material Adverse Effect is completely baseless. Tiffany has acted in good faith in full compliance with the Merger Agreement and will continue to do so.” LVMH announced back in November that it would be buying Tiffany in its biggest acquisition to date. In June, LVMH announced it was not planning to buy Tiffany shares on the open market. It followed reports that the French luxury giant was reconsidering the deal following industry-wide poor trading caused by the Covid-19 pandemic. The following week, however, Tiffany announced it received additional regulatory approval for its acquisition by LVMH. LVMH reportedly considered renegotiating the terms of the deal based on the impact of Covid-19 but ultimately decided not to, according to sources familiar with the deal. Photo credit: Tiffany & Co
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Timberland and Westfield London create sustainable partnership

Westfield London and Timberland have announced a three-year sustainable partnership with the launch of an accessible and biodiverse Nature Reserve at the West London shopping destination. The nature reserve has been designed to feature a range of diverse horticultural areas to help address key local environmental issues and includes a wildflower meadow, insect hotels, beehive, fruit trees, vegetable beds, and a pond area. Located behind the Southern Terrace at Westfield London, the nature reserve will showcase different methods for growing fruits and vegetables to help visitors learn about sustainable food growing, as part of Westfield’s ongoing commitment to the local area. Visitors will be made up of students from local specialist schools such as Jack Tizard School and Queensmill School, who support young people with severe learning disabilities and autism. Students will be invited to explore the space and offered the opportunity to learn about the importance of nature, biodiversity, and horticulture in a safe and accessible space. The activity is in partnership with Timberland, who will also be running workshops in collaboration with Urban Planters, who curated the Nature Reserve. These will take place on-site throughout the year to encourage visitors to learn and engage with the great outdoors. Jacinta Roswell, general manager at Westfield London said in a statement: “We’re excited to partner with a brand like Timberland who has a strong commitment to protecting nature and ensuring a green future. At Westfield London, we’re always looking to create new experiences and the Nature Reserve is a great example of how we can work with brands to create meaningful activations that align with our ethos and commitments to our local community.” Andrea Simmen, marketing manager at Timberland added: “We are proud to sponsor The Westfield Nature Reserve. It perfectly aligns with our brand ethos of bringing communities together and investing in nature for a greener and brighter future. We couldn’t be happier with the partnership which we believe is the start of something really special. “The space itself is a great place for local schools to learn about why being in nature is so important, not only for the future of our planet, but also our mental and physical health. This space gives us a platform to educate the local community on how they can make small changes on a grassroots level which together contribute towards a greener London.” Images: courtesy of Timberland/Westfield London
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J.Crew to close all six UK stores

US retailer J.Crew is to permanently close all six of its UK stores as it exits the country. The brand has appointed advisory firm FRP as liquidators to its UK business, The Guardian reports. The company has a head office in London and has around 80 employees. The brand opened a flagship store on London’s Regent Street back in 2013 and was also stocked in John Lewis before the relationship was terminated last year. “After a thorough review, we have determined we are best able to serve our UK customers through our global e-commerce platform and are closing our six store locations in the country,” a J.Crew spokesperson told The Guardian. “We thank our UK associates for their dedication during this unprecedented time and are working to support their transition.” J.Crew to exit UK Earlier this month, J.Crew Group emerged from Chapter 11 bankruptcy after winning approval for its restructuring plan by the US Bankruptcy Court for the Eastern District of Virginia. The plan saw the company equitize over 1.6 billion dollars of secured indebtedness, and provide a 400 million dollar exit asset-based loan facility as well as 400 million dollars of new term loans. The group, which owns brands J.Crew and Madewell, became the first major US retailer to file for bankruptcy during the Covid-19 pandemic back in May. The company confirmed at the time Madewell would remain part of J.Crew Group, following speculation it might sell off the brand. The group also said it would continue to focus on its e-commerce businesses which now represents at least 50 percent of total revenues. J.Crew Group CEO Jan Singer said at the time: “The confirmation of our plan of reorganization is another significant milestone in our path to transforming our business to drive long-term, sustainable growth for J.Crew and further advance Madewell's growth momentum.” J.Crew joins a growing list of US brands including Forever 21, Banana Republic and American Eagle which have tried but failed to enter the competitive UK market in recent years. Photo credit: J.Crew
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Converse All Stars Programme expanded to embrace change

Converse has been growing, engaging and building with a group of more than 3,000 individuals from more than 27 countries to shape the future of Converse on its social and digital platforms. The Converse All Stars Programme has expanded to facilitate a community focused ecosystem of mentorship, commission and funding, according to the Nike website. A film was created by the All Star Community to represent the pursuit of progress, it was written by Ifeoma “Ify” White-Thorpe under the mentorship of Issa Rae with original music by James and Phillip Mathew under the mentorship of Tyler, the creator, and directed by first-generation, Mexican-American writer and director Leo Aguirre. Source: Converse via YouTube Photo credit: Nike website
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LFW: What a catwalk show looks like during a pandemic

Fashion week during a global pandemic is a little surreal. In an instant, a five-day London Fashion Week schedule, usually packed with back-to-back catwalk shows and presentations, is literally just a handful life events to accommodate social-distancing and ensuring Covid-19 safety. While most have opted for a digital viewing of their spring/summer 2020 collections, there are a few designers who are putting on a traditional catwalk show, the first of which was Bora Aksu, who opened day two of London Fashion Week with his signature ethereal silk tulles and frills. A catwalk show during a global pandemic is a little different. First off, there were less than 30 guests invited to see the collection. Each editor was led through the doors of St Paul’s Church, in the heart of London’s Covent Garden, to the beautiful courtyard gardens where we were shown to our quintessentially English park bench. Mine was in memory of Eva Harbert, described as a “remarkable and respected lady,” which felt fitting as Bora Aksu’s collection was a celebration of women. While in past seasons, there probably would have been four or five editors crammed onto one bench, it felt very luxurious, each editor had their own bench and told to sit in the centre to assure maximum social distance from their neighbours. It felt strange, waiting for the show to start and looking down the catwalk at just a handful of an audience. There was none of the usual catwalk mingling, the rush of people trying to find their seats or the usual celeb spotting. Instead, editors were seen waving at one another, smiles hidden behind masks, waiting for the music to start. On each bench, Bora Aksu also provided his guests with a Covid-19 ready goodie bag, with a neon-infused face mask, hand sanitiser, and a vitamin drink to boost your immune system. When I asked Bora Aksu why it was important to do a physical showcase under these extreme circumstances, he stated: “I think after being isolated for so long and not being able to interact with each other, it was very important for me to do a physical show during LFW in a totally new way. "The old ways of operating and communicating in fashion seems so far away that we are now discovering more intimate ways to communicate and be more inclusive. Being creative is something that I feel we shouldn't compromise as creativity is a way to bring light into our world.” Bora Aksu takes inspiration from nurses treating the 1918 flu pandemic for SS21 The designer was also keen to express that while creativity is important, he also made sure that practical measures were put in place to ensure the catwalk event was Covid-19 secure, from showcasing outdoors with social distancing measures to working with the British Fashion Council on risk assessments backstage to keep staff and models safe. If there was any pressure on the Turkish designer on hosting London’s first catwalk show since lockdown you wouldn’t know it, as model after model floated through the churchyard in their nostalgic ruffle-edged tulle dresses. The spring/summer 2021 collection was an ode to nurses, not the current key workers dealing with coronavirus, but those from 1918, who faced the Spanish flu pandemic following World War I. A time the designer describes as “a time of contrast, conflict, and tension, followed by victory and prosperity”. The opening looks were starched whites, a reinvention of the white nurse uniform with tiered skirts and frilled sleeves, with embroidered hearts and doves displayed as armbands, on the front of apron-style layers, and on the collars. This was followed by a flurry of ethereal silk tulles and transparent silk organza dresses in frosted pink and blue pastels inspired by the 1920s flapper dress, which were offset by prints, lace, and embroideries specially designed for the collection. Alongside tailored suits and trench coats. Each model also wore a sheer organza face masks, a nod to this year’s biggest accessory. While the thin gauze wouldn’t offer much protection against Covid, this is fashion week, instead, it highlighted the bold lipstick underneath, from hot pink to blue to represent the rebellious trends of the 1920s. While for some digital prospects offer innovation and a different point of view to showcase their creativity, the traditional catwalk still remains the focal point of any fashion week. For Bora Aksu, the catwalk is still a special experience, with the designer adding: “I think it's important for designers to be able to bring hope and creativity into these challenging times. I always worked with emotions and even my design process is always based on emotions. "The last couple of months were one of the most challenging times for me as we all have to communicate with each other through screens/zoom meetings. I feel that having this exclusive show brings that intimacy we have been so longing for. This show was a way for me to show that we can dream and we can imagine.” Images: courtesy of Bora Aksu by Chris Yates
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Covid-19 pandemic further hits Superdry’s revenue and profit

Group revenue at Superdry fell by 19.2 percent year-on-year to 704.4 million pounds (904.3 million dollars), which the company said, was driven by a decline in both divisions, with retail declining 18.2 percent and wholesale declining by 20.7 percent. The group’s statutory loss after tax for the year was 143.4 million pounds compared to a 101.7 million pounds loss in 2019, while pretax loss reached 166.9 million pounds (215.6 million dollars) for the year ended April 25 compared with a loss of 89.3 million pounds in fiscal 2019. Commenting on the company’s annual results, Julian Dunkerton, the company’s Founder and Chief Executive Officer, said in a statement: “As with all retailers, we have experienced significant disruption to our operations, and this has inevitably had an impact on our FY20 results. While our underlying profit has been impacted by trading performance during the year, including Covid-19 related store closures, I am particularly pleased by how strongly ecommerce has performed, with FY21 first quarter revenues nearly doubling year-on-year.” Review of Superdry’s annual performance The company further said that in the second half, trading declined 26.6 percent year-on-year, largely due to Covid-19 forced store closures, where the entire estate was closed for five weeks, reducing demand given the general uncertainty in the global economy, affecting all the markets. Prior to the impact of Covid-19 in Week 46, which is when Superdry first saw store closures in Italy, group revenue was down 12.7 percent, declining 71 percent in the remaining six weeks of the year as the pandemic disrupted all areas of the business. Revenues in the company-owned store declined by 22.7 percent and ecommerce declined 8 percent, which resulted in the retail division delivering revenue of 438.8 million pounds, down 18.2 percent year-on-year. The company said, retail store performance was affected by 0.6 percent space decline in the year, closing seven unprofitable stores to finish the year with 241 owned stores across the UK, Europe and the USA. Like-for-like (LFL) store sales saw a decline of 14.4 percent, following a decline of 9.6 percent in FY19. Superdry added that performance in the company’s largest market, the UK and ROI, saw revenues decline 18.3 percent, predominantly due to the return to a full price trading stance impacting the first 10 months of the year, followed by the unprecedented impact of Covid-19, impacting both store and online trading. Wholesale revenue of 265.6 million pounds was down 20.7 percent. Wholesale partners with store operations faced the same closures as company-owned retail stores, with a greater proportion of revenues coming from Europe contributing to the adverse impact of Covid-19. Superdry updates on current trading and outlook The company said that trading continues to be disrupted, but has improved from the end of FY20 as social distancing measures are relaxed and consumer demand gradually returns. In the balance of the year, Superdry anticipates an improvement in store trading from current levels, though expect LFLs to remain negative on a FY basis, given the pressure on consumer demand and uncertainty relating to any disruption from Covid-19, even considering the comparable trading in March and April when stores were temporarily shut, wholesale sales to see some improvement from current trading levels through in-season sales, with franchise store LFLs in Europe recovering strongly, and normalisation of Spring/Summer forward order shipment timing. The company expects gross margin impacted by a number of dynamics, with a heavily discounted promotional stance to clear excess stock and generate cash, negatively impacting full price mix year to date, but partially offset by the unwind of FY20 non-trading headwinds. Picture:Facebook/Superdry
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