Saturday, August 12, 2023

HanesBrands lowers FY sales outlook

HanesBrands corporate headquarters Credits: HanesBrands US apparel company HanesBrands has lowered its full-year sales outlook after reporting a 4.9 percent drop in the second quarter. The company posted net sales of 1.44 billion dollars in the three months to July 1, down from 1.51 billion dollars a year earlier. “We reported second-quarter results in line with our outlook,” said CEO Steve Bratspies in a statement. “We also delivered sequential gross margin improvement, further reduced inventory, generated positive operating cash flow, and began paying down debt earlier than expected,” he said. HanesBrands swung to a loss from continuing operations of 22 million dollars in the second quarter from a profit of 93 million dollars the prior year. Bratspies continued: “We’re confident in our ability to exit the year with gross margin in the high 30 percent range, generate 500 million dollars of operating cash flow, and pay down more than 400 million dollars of debt, despite the difficult apparel market, particularly in Australia and the US activewear category, which caused us to adjust our second-half outlook.” For the full year, the company now expects net sales from continuing operations of approximately 5.80 billion dollars to 5.90 billion dollars. That’s down from its previous estimate of between 6.05 billion dollars and 6.20 billion dollars. At the guidance midpoint, it would represent an approximate 6 percent drop in FY sales.
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Designing for sustainability: A new era of eco-conscious product creation

Environmental product creation Credits: Trove Up-and-coming product designers are faced with a diverse array of responsibilities. Beyond mastering their craft and immersing themselves in design history, they are now compelled to grasp the intricate principles of sustainability, comprehend environmental ramifications, and change gears to adopt life-cycle analysis. The conventional perception of materials, once primarily evaluated for utility and aesthetics, must undergo a profound transformation. It now demands scrutiny regarding manufacturing methodologies, carbon footprint, ecological consequences, and endurance. In the present design landscape, the post-usage phase of a product has ascended to parallel importance with its functional life. Consequently, young designers confront a more constrained array of choices. The days of uninhibited availability devoid of repercussions are over. Their decisions necessitate the selection of renewable resources and a proficiency in constructing designs conducive to disassembly. To this end, they must avoid using harmful substances and prioritise materials that can be recycled or repurposed. Most importantly, they must create products that are built to last. By channeling their focus towards excellence, durability and ease of repair, they endeavour to elongate the lifespan of products, diminishing the need for replacements. This ethos of design marks a distinct departure from the prevailing culture of fast fashion corporations, propelling emerging fashion designers toward solutions that transcend mere commercial gains. At the University of the Arts London (UAL), a significant shift is underway. In particular, students at Central Saint Martins, acknowledged globally for their pioneering vision in product development, have forged a partnership with UPM Biochemicals, to develop climate neutral materials. Their ambition is to develop the next generation of product materials without relying on fossil fuels. New design protocols A pivotal directive for these students is to avoid unnecessary design features and components that could lead to resource-intensive production and complex disposal processes. Instead, they are guided by a design philosophy that has the potential to spur lifestyle changes, foster sustainable practices, and champion localised production. Through synergistic engagements with suppliers, manufacturers, and stakeholders such as UPM, an era of novel product design emerges, heralding a renaissance in design principles, and underscoring that the effort to address environmental challenges must be collective.
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Dillard's posts drop in Q2 sales, profit

Dillard's in Fairview, Texas Credits: Wikiwand, ShareAlike US department store chain Dillard's has reported a drop in sales and profit in the second quarter. Net sales fell 3 percent to 1.57 billion dollars in the three months ended July 29, while net profit narrowed to 131.5 million dollars from 163.4 million dollars. For the year to date, net sales fell 4 percent to 3.15 billion dollars, while net profit fell to 333 million dollars from 414.5 million dollars. “The cautious consumer we noted in the first quarter continued in the first few weeks of the second, leading to a sales decline of 3 percent,” said CEO William T. Dillard II in a statement. “We exited the quarter with inventory flat year-over-year while maintaining a strong retail gross margin of 40.4 percent,” he said. “We repurchased 103 million dollars of stock and ended the quarter with 924 million dollars in cash and short-term investments.”
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Monsoon unveils new design direction for childrenswear

Monsoon Children AW23 collection Credits: Monsoon Children In Pictures British fashion retailer Monsoon has unveiled a “bold new direction” for its Monsoon Children’s autumn/winter 2023 collection, inspired by creative workshops it hosted with children and young people. The new direction for the childrenswear line, geared towards its target age group of three to 13, features a host of characters and motifs inspired by children’s drawings, including an alien on a skateboard, a happy face and a “cheeky” apple. Monsoon notes in the press release that the collection aims to capture” the imagination of curious, creative children who value comfort as well as playful design,” with a range that includes jumpsuits, co-ord sets, beanie hats, sweaters, skirts and dresses in a palette of bold colours, with pieces for both boys and girls. Monsoon Children AW23 collection Credits: Monsoon Children The new collection will be available in selected Monsoon stores, including Westfield Stratford City, Dundrum, Westfield London, Bluewater, Birmingham, Edinburgh and 21 international stores, from August 21. The launch comes six months after the opening of the Monsoon Children flagship boutique in Westfield Stratford City, designed to offer a modern and appealing retail environment imagined through a child’s eyes. It has playful yet practical features, including eye-catching arched doorways with a large one for adults and a smaller one just for children and bright wall hangings. The new design direction for Monsoon Children will sit alongside its other lines, including ‘Land of Wonder,’ a fairytale-inspired collection of dresses, wings and jackets, as well as back to school, partywear and the holiday shop. Monsoon Children AW23 collection Credits: Monsoon Children Monsoon Children AW23 collection Credits: Monsoon Children Monsoon Children AW23 collection Credits: Monsoon Children
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Amazon reportedly scrapping 27 of 30 private clothing labels

Amazon logo Credits: Christian Wiediger via Unsplash US retail giant Amazon is reigning in its own-label fashion business as it looks to cut costs and tackle mounting regulatory pressure, according to a report. The company, which has been rapidly expanding its presence in the fashion industry in recent years, is winding down dozens of its own-label brands, The Wall Street Journal reports, citing sources familiar with the matter. In fact, Amazon will scrap all but three of its 30 private fashion labels, according to the report, leaving it with just Amazon Essentials, Amazon Collection, and Amazon Aware. In an email to Reuters, Matt Taddy, the vice president of Amazon Private Brands, said: “If there are products that aren't resonating with customers we deprecate those items and look for other opportunities to better meet their needs.” It follows a report by The Wall Street Journal last summer that Amazon was reducing the number of own-label products on offer amid falling sales, and that the company was considering exiting the private-label business altogether to alleviate regulatory pressure. Amazon has been criticised in the past for its business practices, including the way it uses its size, power, and data to give it an unfair advantage over smaller merchants that sell on its online platform. The US Federal Trade Commission (FTC) is currently in the process of finalising a long-awaited antitrust lawsuit against the retailer.
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Friday, August 11, 2023

Wolverine Worldwide names new CEO and lowers outlook

Sweaty Betty Credits: Sweaty Betty, Facebook Wolverine World Wide, Inc. revenue of 589.1 million dollars declined 17.4 percent and declined 17.3 percent on a constant currency basis. Revenue from the ongoing business was 578.2 million dollars and declined 13.8 percent on a constant currency basis. The company also announced that Christopher Hufnagel has been promoted to president and chief executive officer. “I would like to express my appreciation to our chairman, Tom Long and the entire board of directors for their confidence in me. I’m truly honoured to be the company’s next CEO," said Hufnagel. "Our second half outlook, as reflected in our updated annual guidance, is disappointing but we are confident that the work we are undertaking will drive significant profit improvement in 2024 and quickly set a strong growth foundation for the company,” Hufnagel added. Highlights of Wolverine Worldwide’s Q2 performance The company's international revenue from the ongoing business of 260.9 million dollars was down 6.7 percent or 6.2 percent on a constant currency basis. Direct-to-consumer revenue of 132.4 million dollars was down 20.3 percent and down 16.4 percent for the ongoing business compared to the prior year. Gross margin was 38.7 percent compared to 43 percent in the prior year. Wolverine Worldwide promotes Christopher Hufnagel to CEO Hufnagel, the company said, joined Wolverine Worldwide in 2008 and has served in leadership roles across the organisation. Before his appointment as president in May 2023, he was president of the company’s active group with responsibility for Merrell, Saucony, Chaco, the Kids Group, and Global Licensing. Commenting on Hufnagel’s appointment as the new CEO, Tom Long, chairman of the Wolverine Worldwide board of directors said, “The board has confidence in Wolverine’s potential and capacity to deliver strong shareholder value on a sustained basis. This, of course, depends heavily on our continued ability to develop great products and build compelling brands. Chris has a demonstrated track record of successfully building global brands, and he has a deep understanding of the company, our people, and our priorities.” Hufnagel has also served as Wolverine Worldwide’s global brand president of Merrell and global brand president of Cat Footwear. In earlier roles at the company, he was president of direct-to-consumer and senior vice president of strategy. Prior to joining Wolverine Worldwide, Hufnagel held senior leadership roles at Under Armour, Gap, and Abercrombie & Fitch. Wolverine Worldwide lowers guidance The company added that revenue from ongoing business is expected to be in the range of 2.26 billion dollars to 2.28 billion dollars for the full year, representing a decline of approximately 10.7 percent to 10 percent versus the prior year. Gross margin is expected to be approximately 39.4 percent and adjusted gross margin is expected to be approximately 40 percent, operating margin is expected to be approximately 4.8 percent, and adjusted operating margin is expected to be approximately 5 percent, while diluted earnings per share are expected to be between 43 cents to 53 cents and adjusted diluted earnings per share are expected to be between 45 cents to 55 cents. "The trading environment is challenging, especially in global wholesale channels where order demand has slowed as retailers manage their businesses more cautiously. As a result, we have reduced our revenue and earnings outlook for the back half of the year,” said Mike Stornant, executive vice president and chief financial officer. Credits: Image: Chris Hufnagel via Business Wire
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Esprit expects to report H1 loss and revenue decline

Credits: Image: Esprit Based on the unaudited results for the six month period, Esprit Holdings Limited expects to record an unaudited loss of approximately 715 million Hong Kong dollars. The company had reported a profit of 13 million Hong Kong dollars for the same period of 2022. The company’s board considers that the significant loss is mainly attributable to the decrease in revenue, which also led to the decrease of gross profit by 18.5 percent to approximately 1,352 million Hong Kong dollars. The group is expected to record total revenue of approximately 3,025 million Hong Kong dollars for the interim period a decrease of approximately 16.6 percent. The company has attributed the decrease in revenue to negative consumer sentiment in Germany and across the rest of Europe resulting from the poor economic environment and the continuing conflict in Ukraine. The company said in a release that the performance was also affected by the short-term adjustments stemming from brand elevation and repositioning in the fashion industry. Esprit has implemented several initiatives to drive growth over the past half year and the management estimates these initiatives to come to fruition in the second half of this year. In the second half of this year, the company will launch the New York retail store, a new collection with superior quality and design, together with a new denim line developed by the group’s new innovative centre in Amsterdam.
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Fossil posts Q2 sales drop of 13 percent, lowers outlook

Credits: Image: Fossil, Facebook Fossil Group, Inc. reported second quarter worldwide net sales totalled 322 million dollars, decreasing 13 percent. The company is downgrading its guidance for the full year 2023 to reflect results from the second quarter, continued declines in the wholesale channels in the Americas and Europe and a more gradual sales recovery in China than previously estimated. Fossil expands Transform and Grow Plan The company is expanding its previously announced Transform and Grow Plan (TAG Plan), which has now expanded beyond operating expense reductions to include gross margin improvements. The expanded TAG Plan is expected to generate approximately 300 million dollars of annualised operating income benefits by the end of 2025. In connection with the plan, the company expects to incur charges of approximately 35 million dollars in 2023, and approximately 100 million dollars to 120 million dollars over the duration of the program. With these measures, the goal is to achieve adjusted gross margins in the low to mid 50 percent range and adjusted operating margins of approximately 10 percent. Commenting on the development, Kosta Kartsotis, the company’s chairman and CEO, stated: “By expanding our Transform and Grow Plan, we are taking bold and significant steps to reshape our business and financial model. Partnering with Alvarez & Marsal, a leading consulting firm, has brought additional insights and enabled a broader and more comprehensive review of our business. As a result, we have tripled the size of our original program to 300 million dollars in annualised benefits by 2025.” Review of Fossil’s Q2 results The company said in a statement that Fossil brand sales grew slightly in traditional watches, more than offset by declines in smartwatches and leathers, resulting in a total brand sales decline of 8 percent in constant currency. The company’s net sales, in constant currency, declined 19 percent in Europe, 13 percent in Americas and 5 percent in Asia versus the same quarter last year. Wholesale sales decreased 19 percent while direct to consumer sales declined 4 percent on a constant currency basis. Within the direct to consumer channels, comparable retail sales grew 3 percent. Traditional watch sales declined 8 percent in constant currency, primarily due to declines in the Americas and Europe. Smartwatch sales decreased 46 percent reflecting lower consumer demand across geographies and channels and our deemphasis of the category as compared to the prior year period. The leathers category decreased 6 percent and jewellery sales declined 19 percent in constant currency during the second quarter. Fossil’s operating performance in Q2 Operating loss for the quarter was 35 million dollars compared to 11 million dollars a year ago. Adjusted operating loss reached 28 million dollars compared to 8 million dollars last year. Gross profit totaled 156.7 million dollars, while gross margin decreased 290 basis points to 48.7 percent. Loss before income taxes was 33.5 million dollars, adjusted EBITDA was 15.4 million dollars or 4.8 percent. The company added that net loss expanded to 26.5 million dollars with net loss per diluted share of 51 cents, while adjusted net loss reached 20.4 million dollars with adjusted net loss per diluted share of 40 cents. Fossil updates 2023 outlook For fiscal year 2023, Fossil now expects worldwide net sales declines of approximately 5 percent to 10 percent versus prior guidance of net sales declines of 5 percent to growth of 1 percent. The Company now expects adjusted operating margin to be negative 2 percent to negative 4 percent of net sales, down from prior guidance of flat to 3 percent.
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Ralph Lauren Q1 sales rise slightly, reiterates outlook

Credits: Ralph Lauren Ralph Lauren has reaffirmed its full-year outlook after reporting a small increase in revenue in the first quarter of the year despite its home market weighing on sales. The New York-headquartered fashion company made net revenue of 1.5 billion dollars in the first three months of the fiscal year, up slightly from 1.49 billion dollars a year earlier. Its domestic market of the US saw a sharp 10 percent decrease in revenue to 632 million dollars during the period, with approximately half of that drop linked to wholesale timing shifts, and the other to continued inflationary pressures. There was better news in Europe, where revenue increased 8 percent to 450 million dollars, and Asia, where revenue was up 13 percent to 378 million dollars - revenue in China jumped more than 50 percent following the end of lockdown restrictions. Profits widen Net income in the first quarter increased to 132 million dollars from 123 million dollars a year earlier. “Our solid first quarter performance highlights the unique power and relevance of our iconic brand with consumers around the world along with our diversified engines of growth, and we are reaffirming our full year outlook,” said president and CEO Patrice Louvet in a statement. Looking ahead to FY24, the company expects revenue to increase in the low-single digits from the prior year on a constant currency basis. It expects its operating margin to expand by approximately 30 to 50 basis points in constant currency, driven by gross margin expansion. Louvet continued: “As we continue to execute on our Next Great Chapter: Accelerate plan, our teams are staying true to our creative vision while remaining agile and focused on what we can control in the context of a choppy environment.”
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Alibaba announces unexpected 14 percent increase in quarterly revenue

Credits: Alibaba Beijing - Chinese e-commerce giant Alibaba announced an unexpected 14 percent on-year increase in quarterly sales on Thursday, following several difficult years and in spite of a broader economic slowdown. Alibaba is a key player in China's expansive digital economy and the operator of a major online shopping platform. The Hangzhou-based group's performance is therefore considered a barometer of domestic consumption, which has flagged in recent months. China entered deflation Wednesday for the first time since 2021, the latest in a long string of indicators reflecting a slowdown in the world's second-largest economy. In the first quarter of its financial year starting on April 1, the group's revenue amounted to 234.1 billion yuan (32.5 billion dollars, 25.5 billion pounds), higher than analyst forecasts. Alibaba's net profit is up 51 percent on-year, reaching 34.3 billion yuan (4.8 billion dollars, 3.8 billion pounds) during the April-June period. 'Solid' The latest financial results come as Alibaba embarks on the biggest restructuring in its history. Announced in late March, the plan involves splitting the group into six distinct entities that will be able to separately pursue funding through public listings. "Alibaba delivered a solid quarter as we continue to execute our Reorganisation, which is beginning to unleash new energy across our businesses," CEO Daniel Zhang said in a statement. Zhang, a key figure in the company's early development, is on his way out as CEO, but will remain with the group to lead its lucrative cloud computing branch, on which Alibaba is betting heavily. The personnel change will take effect on September 10. Zhang has been at the helm of the Alibaba empire since the 2019 departure of founder Jack Ma. In addition to cloud computing and e-commerce, the group is a heavyweight in the broader Chinese tech ecosystem, with major operations across logistics, media, entertainment and artificial intelligence. Regulatory crackdown The company's restructuring comes after a long rough patch for the country's tech industry, with authorities seeking to assert control over a leading sector that had once enjoyed lax regulation. In 2020, Alibaba became the country's first tech giant to bear the brunt of increased oversight, when authorities called off what would have become one of the most valuable public listings in history -- valued at 34 billion dollars (26.6 billion pounds) -- for its former subsidiary Ant Group. Ant Group is the owner of Alipay, a mobile payment application that is widely used in China. One month after officials hit the brakes on its IPO, Alibaba was investigated for alleged anti-competitive practices, then issued a heavy fine of 2.8 billion dollars (2.2 billion pounds). And last month, authorities fined Ant Group 7.1 billion yuan (985.2 million dollars, 770.6 million pounds) for breaching banking regulations. Alibaba competitor Tencent, also a core provider of payment services in China through its WeChat mobile app, was fined nearly 3 billion yuan (416.3 million dollars, 325.7 million pounds). The crackdown now appears to be waning as Chinese officials voice renewed support for the digital economy, an important source of growth and potential jobs at a time when the broader economy is under pressure. But the sector has not yet regained its former dynamism. A sign of persisting challenges, Alibaba has shed more than 17,000 employees in the past year, according to a comparison of its workforce with the same quarter of 2022.(AFP)
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Thursday, August 10, 2023

CPHFW: Paolina Russo draws on folkloric fantasies and sports codes for SS24

Paulina Russo SS24, CPHFW. Credits: Launchmetrics Spotlight. “Our collections are an intertwining of our escapist teenage fantasies and the spirit of nostalgic references from our upbringing,” said Alex Russo – one half of the team behind Paolina Russo – in a press interview prior to the brand’s show during Copenhagen Fashion Week (CPHFW). The duo, which is completed by Lucile Guilmard, were selected as the winners of the first edition of Zalando’s Visionary Award in partnership with the event, recognising them as “makers of the future”. Founded in 2021, Paolina Russo has become known for its take on knitwear combined with artisan techniques, bridging the gap between heritage craftsmanship and technology. This was no different for the London-based label’s spring/summer 2024 collection, which Russo said mixed “sports codes with folkloric fantasies of stone circles” resulting in a subversive exploration of knit, print, jersey and denim. An important element of the line, according to the designer, was the use of recycled and single-cotton fibres that reiterated the label’s commitment to responsible practices – a quality made possible through a collaboration with textile solution developers Pizarro. Such practices could be seen in lasered denim and t-shirts, which Russo noted eliminated harmful processes for workers and reduces the environmental impact of production. Paulina Russo SS24, CPHFW. Credits: Launchmetrics Spotlight. Silhouettes present throughout the collection ranged from low waisted, flowing asymmetry to layered basics and figure-hugging forms, made possible through a prominent use of ruching. Other techniques were also vast, as crochet and intricate knitwear formed corset-like tops could be seen combined with printed sportswear pieces. ‘Our aim is to create a modern context for craft…’ Such prints reflected the aforementioned folklore theme, a common staple of Paolina Russo’s collections brought on by the past of the designers – bringing together Russo’s suburban upbringing in Canada with Guilmard’s French heritage. Commenting on this contrast, Russo said: “Both of us found community and belonging through making, and it’s how we realised that craft is something that exists because of communities and passes from generation to generation.” Paulina Russo SS24, CPHFW. Credits: Launchmetrics Spotlight. Ultimately, the brand’s goal is to “create a modern context for craft” through the development of technology, evident, as noted by Russo, in signature illusion knits, which were also present in the SS24 collection. Further proof of their efforts is also in the designers’ so-called “collaborative manufacturing network”, through which they intend to treat their supply chain as creative partners. Russo added: “We work face to face and as locally as possible with our supply chain in order to approach development hands-on and to experiment within the facilities of our manufacturers.” It is this mindset that led both Russo and Guilmard to apply and ultimately win Zalando’s Visionary Award, bolstering the pair’s mission to continue empowering others to consider their practices as well as their self-expression. On the win, Russo said: “ Meeting the high standards of an award like this brings us closer to our goal: modernising craftsmanship and rethinking traditional techniques through innovation and responsible fashion products. Winning encourages us to keep building a sustainable brand and celebrates an alternative way of working.” Paulina Russo SS24, CPHFW. Credits: Launchmetrics Spotlight.
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Germany, China and the US: Sportswear brand UYN on course for expansion

UYN headquarters with Academy for Research and Engineering in Apparel and Sport (AREAS) in Asola, Italy. Credit: UYN Unleash Your Nature (UYN) is continuing its expansion course. The Italian sportswear brand has set its sights on markets such as the US and China, but is also opening new shops in Germany, Switzerland and the UK. Since its launch in the AW19 season, UYN has been on a steady growth trajectory, tapping into new markets, the sportswear retailer told FashionUnited. This has allowed the brand – which like bike labels Titici and For.Bicy is part of Italian clothing and bike supplier, Trerè Innovation – to expand its network to 29 countries and more than 2,000 points of sale in the past four years. Shoe "Arion" Credit: UYN New openings and expansion UYN currently operates eleven of its own stores, ten of which are in its home country - Asola, Milan, Rome, Trento, Brescia, Madonna di Campiglio, Salò, Torbole, Viareggio, San Ginesio and, since July, in Peschiera on Lake Garda in the former Padiglione degli Ufficiali palace. In addition, there is a German shop in Zweibrücken. Meanwhile, the spaces in Rome, Salò and Viareggio have been given a new coat of paint this year, and have been redesigned and expanded. The next shop will be in Cambridge, England, which will be open to customers from the end of August, as well as a store in Salzburg in the autumn. In Germany, where UYN is also available in the luxury department stores' KaDeWe, the brand is currently looking for a suitable location in Düsseldorf. Munich is additionally being considered, according to a spokesperson. Store in Peschiera Credit: UYNStore in Peschiera Credit: UYN Further new openings are planned in Poland, Belgium, the Netherlands and Spain. In addition, China is among the new growth markets, where five shops are planned. The first Chinese store is scheduled to open on 9 September in the Golden Resources Mall. Building on the positive experience in Italy, Trerè Innovation will continue its strategy to expand its retail network abroad in 2024. Made in USA Since last year, UYN has been represented with its own branch in the US. A location in Boston was opened in 2022 and serves as a centre to drive expansion on the US market. There, the brand focuses particularly on technical underwear, socks and shoes. Meanwhile, parent company Trerè Innovation has its own production facility in the US state of Pennsylvania, which already manufactures technical underwear ‘Made in USA’. From the SS24 season, the product range, which is produced locally, is to be expanded to include the "Self Layer" functional shirts - made from bio-based fibres. In addition, a flagship is to be opened in Boston in autumn, which will also offer offices, warehouses and research laboratories, akin to the headquarters in Asola, Italy. UYN Italian production Credit: UYN Plant-based sportswear The brand focuses on sportswear that aims to reduce dependence on synthetic fibres from fossil fuels without compromising performance. To achieve this, UYN relies on materials derived from plant-based raw materials. These include fibres obtained from cellulose from plants, such as beech and eucalyptus. But merino wool is also used. Through proprietary technologies, these raw materials are to be improved in the focus areas of resistance, breathability, elasticity, fast drying and odour neutralisation. 'Self Layer' functional shirts subdivided according to elements that rely on different functions Credit: UYN Shoes from UYN cost between 55.30 euros for loafers and 449 euros for cycling shoes with full carbon soles. In the clothing range, there are functional vests between 34.30 and 139 euros, T-shirts for 14.50 euros, jumpers from 29.50 euros, jackets between 139 and 1400 euros. Accessories like caps, arm warmers, bags and underwear are also part of the range. Socks and shoes model "Shockie" Credit: UYN About Trerè Innovation In addition to the US site, Trerè Innovation also manufactures at two European production facilities, in Italy and Bosnia. At the Italian site, which has an area of more than 100,000 square metres, about 800 people are employed in research and development, sales and marketing, logistics and in the production of high-tech clothing and socks. About 550 employees work in Bosnia, focusing particularly on the production of socks and other product areas such as cut and sew, seamless and exclusive yarns. In addition to its own brands, the company also holds a clothing licence for Jeep and underwear licences for the Replay and Franklin & Marshall brands. In addition, it has established partners with sportswear and outdoor suppliers such as Decathlon, Puma and Jack Wolfskin; clothing suppliers like Tchibo, Marks & Spencer and C&A; and luxury brands such as Dior and Prada. This article originally appeared on FashionUnited.DE. Translation and edit by: Rachel Douglass.
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Delta Galil's Q2 sales decline by 10 percent

Credits: Image: Schiesser AG, Delta Galil Industries Delta Galil Industries, Ltd. reported a sales decrease of 10 percent or 9 percent in constant currency to 443.6 million dollars, driven by the macro slowdown in global consumer spending. The company’s first-half sales were 886 million dollars, a 9 percent decrease or 8 percent in constant currency. For the full year, the company expects net sales to decrease to 2,000 million dollars, EBIT to increase to 192 million dollars, EBITDA to reach 285.7 million dollars, increase in net income to 120.9 million dollars and diluted earnings per share to reach 4.27 dollars. Delta Galil’s board has declared a dividend of 7 million dollars or 0.272 cents per share, which will be distributed on August 30, 2023. Commenting on the trading update, Isaac Dabah, CEO of Delta Galil, stated in a release: “During the quarter, most of our owned brands increased direct sales across both e-commerce and brick and mortar retail channels. Additionally, we managed to achieve a strong second quarter gross margin despite a heavily promotional retail landscape, while simultaneously reducing our inventory for the third consecutive quarter. Finally, we announced another measure to streamline our operations by reducing our operational footprint in China.” The company’s second quarter gross margin improved 190 basis points to 40.4 percent, EBIT was 30.9 million dollars or 7 percent of sales compared to last year at 44 million dollars or 9 percent of sales, EBITDA was 38 million dollars, a 27.1 percent decrease from last year and a 33.3 percent increase from the first quarter of 2023. Second quarter net income was 15.1 million dollars compared to 22.7 million dollars and diluted earnings per share were 53 cents compared to 80 cents in the second quarter of 2022. Gross margin in the first half increased by 150 basis points to 39.7 percent, EBIT was 42.7 million dollars compared to 72.7 million dollars in the same period last year, net income was 18.1 million dollars compared to 41.6 million dollars and diluted earnings per share were 61 cents compared to 1.47 dollars in the same period last year. In the first half of 2023, EBITDA was 66.5 million dollars compared to 94.7 million dollars in the first half of 2022.
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CIFF x Fashion Snoops: AW24/25 defined by fortified strength and a new state of existence

(From left) Tafe NSW, White Mountaineering and Loewe SS24 collections. Credits: Launchmetrics Spotlight. It’s rare to go into a trend seminar these days without the mention of the globally turbulent times we are still living in. This was no different for FashionSnoops’ talk at the ongoing Copenhagen International Fashion Fair (CIFF) – taking place between August 9 and 11 – where the trend firm’s director of colour Joanne Thomas took to the stage to discuss what to expect for autumn/winter 24/25. And while it seems that the increased pressures fashion has been facing over recent years – whether it be economic, societal or political – have already had a profound impact on the industry and its performance, it seems that these pressures are expected to continue being endured for the upcoming season. During her presentation, Thomas spoke on the need for designers to fit quotas that ultimately defined their values and stylistic choices for collections. However, she suggested that in place of simply viewing these constraints as barriers, brands should instead think within these constraints in order to adapt to the ever-changing consumer mindset. This idea was reflected in the three design aesthetics Thomas outlined to the attendees of CIFF. Fragility: Soft armour and comfort-centric design (From left) Danny Reinke, Prada and Dsquared2 SS24 collections. Credits: Launchmetrics Spotlight. At the core of the first trend, ‘Fragility’, Thomas described an aesthetic of “fortified strength in the most delicate of times”. As consumers seek respite from the pressures of everyday life, Thomas suggested for brands to respond through the offering of a “soft armour”. Central qualities of this trend were that of embracing emotional intelligence through responsible business practices, the acceptance of solitude among consumers looking for escape and an increased dialogue surrounding mental health. Particular clothing categories that addressed these concerns lay in comfort-centric styles, such as loungewear and sleepwear, while Thomas also highlighted the need to consider services that provide multi-layer health benefits. Colours linked to ‘fragility’ were described to bring a harmonious balance between the combination of strength and subtly, with Thomas further referencing a “captivating visual push and pull” seen in the incorporation of nude tones alongside warmer hues. These could also be viewed in the underlying themes for both womens- and menswear, the former of which put more emphasis on the idea of “divine femininity”, shown through the use of “preserved florals” and the ease and comfort of materials. Meanwhile, for menswear, such a trend was present through a similar take on “effortless grace” that is both cool and contemporary with a timeless aesthetic. Immersive: Playing on protective pieces and reacting to your surroundings (From left) Craig Green, Neo. Fashion and Taakk SS24 collections. Credits: Launchmetrics Spotlight. When speaking on ‘Immersive’, Thomas touched on a “new state of existence” that went beyond the ordinary and brought together the contrast of functionality and fantasy. Here, Thomas looked outside of our reality on earth and towards otherworldly perspectives, cosmic themes and highly personalised methods to achieve an evolution of self-expression. The result is the use of updated materials that offer metallic sheens, exaggerated surfaces and fully customisable looks, either offering a gateway into personal experimentation or playing on the concept of protection. Thomas also looked into the idea of tech as a mode to explore immersion, noting that brands need to particularly pay attention to materials that are reactive to their environment. The colour palette for this theme is defined by hyper bright hues selected for their ability to ignite the senses. The visually dynamic curation captures a sense of warmth, while also drawing inspiration from nature, a quality that was imperative to womenswear, where the design aesthetic was linked with the growth of plants. Evidence of such a process could be seen in a modular wardrobe, which adapts to the wearer’s needs and equips them for any situation. A similar thing could be said for the men’s wardrobe, however, in contrast, Thomas focused more on personalised utility as a central pillar, as well as the mixing of futurism and traditionalism that presented a progressive yet hesitant version of tomorrow. Sentimental: The Wes Anderson effect (From left) Paul Smith, Lazoschmidl and Givenchy SS24 collections. Credits: Launchmetrics Spotlight. In another take on responding to the turbulent period we are passing through, 'Sentimental' views the concept of nostalgia as a safe space for life's uncertainties. Here, consumers will welcome a contextualisation of history, Thomas noted, as well as the longing for an intimate connection to creations that fall under this banner. "Cinematic charm" and "immersive storytelling" were phrases touched on for this trend, and can already be seen in the increased popularity of film director Wes Anderson, who is known for his distinct filmography style. Thomas further commented on circular processes that will drive this trend, such as the repair culture and DIY elements, each pushing a desire for crafts and catering to the emotional engagement customers are seeking. Colours for this theme further emphasise the handmade, artsy feel of this aesthetic, with warm tones bringing drama while contrasting cooler hues complete the cinematic perspective Thomas highlights. For both men and women, 'Sentimental' is formulated around heritage and traditionalism as a source of comfort and familiarity. For women specifically, the theme revolves around functional elements of classic silhouettes. Meanwhile, for men, it is translated into a more figurative take, which Thomas described as an "imaginative twist on farm living" through "rugged yet dreamy workwear". Think brocade blazers and crafted overcoats.
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Dr Martens opens first outlet in Germany

In pictures Dr Martens store in Outletcity, Metzingen Image: Dr Martens British shoe retailer Dr Martens has opened its first outlet store in Germany. The 155 square metre store is located in the Outletcity shopping centre in Metzingen, in the south of Germany, the bootmaker announced Tuesday. The retailer has teamed up with Stuttgart artist Vivien Staff, who has a dedicated area in the store to exhibit her works. Dr Martens store in Outletcity, Metzingen Image: Dr Martens Dr Martens store in Outletcity, Metzingen Image: Dr Martens Dr Martens store in Outletcity, Metzingen Image: Dr Martens This article was originally written on FashionUnited.DE before being translated and edited to English.
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Wednesday, August 9, 2023

Is Farfetch exiting its beauty category?

Is Farfetch shuttering its beauty division? Credits: Farfetch In April last year, Farfetch made a grand entrance into the beauty sphere, creating quite a buzz. The launch of its own beauty category came on the heels of its acquisition of beauty retailer Violet Grey, resulting in the unveiling of its very own Farfetch Beauty. This new venture boasted an impressive lineup of over 100 brands, ranging from renowned British makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury to the esteemed Swiss luxury skincare brand La Mer. However, recent developments indicate that the category has encountered challenges, leading to reports that Farfetch may close down this division. According to insights from WWD, a fierce competition has been unfolding among retailers vying for the esteemed prestige beauty customer. A multitude of online players, including Net-a-Porter, Ssense, and The RealReal, have all dipped their toes into this category, with the latter shuttering operations earlier this year. Simultaneously, brick-and-mortar retailers have taken a deeper plunge into the beauty realm through strategic partnerships with industry giants such as Sephora and Ulta Beauty. Success and loyalty The foundations of brand loyalty and trust are pillars that the prestige beauty industry heavily relies upon. Established physical retailers have cultivated strong, enduring connections with customers over time. This poses a significant challenge for digital players aiming to swiftly establish similar rapport. Shoppers often gravitate towards purchasing beauty products from familiar and dependable physical stores, preferring them over emerging digital platforms. Within the beauty industry, the in-store experience also carries substantial weight. Potential buyers often desire the opportunity to physically engage with and evaluate products before committing to a purchase. This sensory encounter proves intricate to replicate online, even with the integration of advanced virtual try-on technologies. The tactile engagement and direct interaction in assessing cosmetics and fragrances hold a distinct appeal for shoppers. Beauty products, particularly those of a high-end nature, frequently exhibit complexity. Customers may find themselves in need of guidance while selecting the perfect shades, formulas, and products that align with their specific requirements. Conventional retailers adeptly offer in-person consultations and expert advice—elements that can prove difficult for digital platforms to effectively mirror. A slice of the beauty pie Statistics from McKinsey show that the expansive beauty market, encompassing skincare, fragrance, makeup, and haircare, raked in an impressive revenue of approximately 430 billion dollars in the year 2022. The allure of the beauty industry has enticed numerous new companies and investors to participate. Nevertheless, the key to triumph within this dynamic and increasingly competitive landscape lies in brands making strategic differentiations to stand out and flourish.
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Behind Von Dutch’s surprising return to the luxury market

Interview Von Dutch Paris creative director Earl Pickens, surrounded by celebrities: Big Money, Brooke Schofield, Tana Mongeau, Imari Stuart and Ari Aguirre at the brand's launch dinner in Malibu in November 2022. Credits: GONZALO MARROQUIN / GETTY IMAGES NORTH AMERICA / Getty Images via AFP A powerful fashion brand of the 2000s, Von Dutch (Royer Group) made a strong comeback with the 2020 launch of Von Dutch Paris, a clothing and accessories line that is about to gain visibility in the French market. "The idea of doing Von Dutch Paris actually goes back to 2017," Earl Pickens, Von Dutch creative director, confided by phone. “We were thinking about how to make a comeback with this brand." The comeback will be Parisian. A big surprise for this leading name in American culture, whose trucker cap has been popularised by celebrities such as Paris Hilton, Britney Spears and Justin Timberlake. But the Californian-born brand has its reasons. Firstly, Von Dutch Paris is based in Paris and was launched in France at Paris Fashion Week Men’s in June 2023. Secondly, Earl Pickens pointed out that the man who propelled the brand into the American market was French: Christian Audigier. Finally, the addition of the name Paris brings Von Dutch closer to the big names in Parisian fashion, who also offer luxury streetwear. The creative director was also keen to point out that the Von Dutch Paris’ manufacturing plants are the same as those of the French luxury heavyweights. Von Dutch now plays in the same league as Parisian labels such as Balmain, Celine and Balenciaga. In fact, when FashionUnited asked Earl Pickens who his target customer was, he replied: "Young girls under thirty who can buy shoes from Balenciaga". He goes on to say that it's more a question of mindset than age. Credits: Von Dutch Paris. ‘We didn't expect it’ Von Dutch Paris came as a surprise. Firstly, because its history is more associated with the ‘bling-bling’ aesthetic of American star Paris Hilton than with Parisian luxury, and secondly because its products are innovative. Von Dutch Paris' move upmarket is not just expressed in the Italian manufacturing of its items. Earl Pickens also stated he has put "more into the details, the fabric treatments, more into the hand embroidery", and proposed a more experimental aspect. The intention is clear: the company wants to distinguish Von Dutch Paris from Von Dutch. "We've tried to keep the two brands as separate as possible so that there's no competition between them. Earl Pickens, creative director of Von Dutch Paris. At Von Dutch Paris, T-shirts sell for between 250 euros and 400 euros (compared to 30 euros at Von Dutch), hoodies go for over 850 euros and denim pieces are priced between 300 euros and 1,000 euros. The big price difference with Von Dutch is also explained by the large number of leather items, a speciality of the young brand. "It's a big difference," stressed the creative director. "We've tried to keep the two brands as separate as possible so there's no competition between them." It is also a way of wiping the slate clean of the brand's sulphurous past, recounted in 2021 by Andrew Renzi in a docu-series broadcast on the Hulu platform. ‘A Brand to Die For’ highlighted the rise and fall of the company, including stories of sabotage, dirty tricks and attempted murder. With such a genesis, it's no wonder the revival of Von Dutch has come as such a shock. When we asked Earl Pickens how the brand had been received at its launch in the Paris pop-up store last June, he said: "I asked everyone to sign a book tracing the history of Von Dutch and the thing I noticed most was 'We didn't expect it'. Most people were surprised by the jeans, the leather, the well-made caps, the sunglasses. They weren't expecting that and it's been great feedback for me." Following its launch in the US, Von Dutch wants to focus on the French market. "The future of the brand is really for us to work on visibility in France. We have sales people who have started selling the brand. Boutiques [concept stores] are going to be delivered in Paris and the rest of France," informed Pickens. The number of pieces in the collection, meanwhile, is set to increase. In fact, the brand entered the optical market in March 2023 with the launch of a line of sunglasses. Aside from a potential presentation at Paris Women's Fashion Week in September, the label will be the subject of pop-up stores in Toronto and Los Angeles in August 2023. This article originally appeared on FashionUnited.FR. Translation and edit by: Rachel Douglass.
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Item of the week: the oversized hoodie

(From left) O'Neill, Desigual and Nike. Credits: FashionUnited Marketplace. What it is: When the standard hoodie just won’t cut it, an oversized iteration takes comfort and warmth to another level. Oversized fits have become more popular than ever in recent years, as the casualisation of fashion continues to take the reins in design. It has even seen haute couture designers take such cues on board, many displaying a new level of high luxury in the form of baggy silhouettes that can be worn to the supermarket. The oversized hoodie is such that it has become a consistent wardrobe addition for all genders, presenting shoppers with a piece they can go back to time and time again. Burberry. Credits: FashionUnited Marketplace. Why you’ll want it: While the hoodie has always been a part of the casual clothing category, the oversized iteration of the garment has continued to rise in popularity, almost outrunning its fitted counterpart. The latter is a piece that most often appears among sportswear collections, in materials that are breathable and suitable to wear when moving. In an oversized format, however, fabrics tend to prioritise comfort, and therefore appeal to a wider target audience who are simply looking for an item to snuggle up in or throw on. Such a piece also doesn’t cater to the boundaries of seasons. It can be an item that is always there when needed, and therefore a valuable investment for shoppers. Superdry. Credits: FashionUnited Marketplace. Where we’ve seen it: As always, oversized hoodies made a regular appearance on runways, particularly defining the prominent casualwear segment of SS24 collections. If there was one brand that really led the way in breaking down the meaning of oversized, it was Vetements, which in all its typical grandeur, presented a hoodie that quite literally fell below the knees, in a size 16 XL, as noted on the garment’s front. While other brands didn’t go to such lengths, many did still challenge the confines of the standard silhouette. Dhruv Kapoor contrasted the choice of short sleeves with a drawn out hemline, while LGN Louis Gabriel Nouchi offered up a sizable zip up iteration. JW Anderson’s take on oversized differed, with hoodies that appeared in puffed up, more rigid shapes, in keeping with the designer’s typical fantastical style. Axel Arigato. Credits: FashionUnited Marketplace. How to style it: The great thing about the oversized hoodie is that there is no pressure when it comes to styling the item. Its exaggerated shape allows for the wearer to layer the piece over whatever outfit they desire, or simply pair it with casual attire like leggings or sweatpants, therefore taking away any need to dress it up. The piece can work well simply as a layer over eveningwear too, as an item that can be brought along almost as an afterthought on an evening that may turn chilly later on. Superdry. Credits: FashionUnited Marketplace. The oversized hoodie is a natural progression of the classic hooded sweater, appealing to those looking for a simple layering addition for any occasion they may find themselves in. 11 Degrees. Credits: FashionUnited Marketplace. Similar items available for (pre)order can be found in the FashionUnited Marketplace. You can find them by clicking on this link.
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Born X Raised and Stüssy unveil streetwear collaboration

Credits: Photo by Antosh Cimoszko. Courtesy of Born X Raised. Stüssy has joined forces with Los Angeles-based Born X Raised for a new, limited-edition capsule. United by deep roots in street culture and style, the collection marks the first venture between the two West Coast brands. The collection will be available on both Stüssy and Born X Raised sites August 11. A mainstay of the iconic brand, Stüssy has teamed up with several brands this year across fashion, home, and beauty categories. The upcoming capsule follows Stüssy’s recent partnerships with Comme des Garçons Parfums and Martine Rose, while Born X Raised is fresh off a collaboration with the L.A. Dodgers. With an assortment of tees, outerwear, and accessories, the collection merges a sportswear spirit with everyday streetwear pieces that nod to the waning California summer. In addition to apparel, the collection also offers a range of collectible items, including a branded beach towel and a custom Zippo lighter. Various elements that speak to both distinctive brand identities are present throughout the collection, from the bespoke dual-logo to the Stüssy eight ball motif. Another signature is the “Handstyle” tee, the only of three tee shirts that features handstyle graffiti work from Spanto and 2Tone, the co-founders of Born X Raised. Spanto, who passed away earlier this year, is commemorated on the back of the shirt. Credits: Photo by Antosh Cimoszko. Courtesy of Born X Raised. Credits: Photo by Antosh Cimoszko. Courtesy of Born X Raised. Credits: Photo by Antosh Cimoszko. Courtesy of Born X Raised.
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Under Armour Q1 revenues drop, outlook maintained

Credits: Image: Under Armour shop in New York. Stock photo First quarter revenue at Under Armour was down 2 percent or down 1 percent currency neutral to 1.3 billion dollars. The company’s gross margin declined 60 basis points to 46.1 percent, operating income was 21 million dollars, net income was 9 million dollars and diluted earnings per share were 2 cents. "We're pleased with how we have navigated our start to fiscal 2024," said Under Armour president and CEO Stephanie Linnartz in a release, adding, "Our international and direct-to-consumer businesses, both of which realised solid growth in the quarter, continue to deliver aside a challenging consumer retail environment in North America. Based on this performance, we are maintaining our outlook for fiscal 2024." Review of Under Armour’s Q1 performance The company said, wholesale revenue for the quarter decreased 6 percent to 742 million dollars and direct-to-consumer revenue increased 4 percent to 544 million dollars due to a 6 percent increase in ecommerce revenue, which represented 40 percent of the total direct-to-consumer business in the quarter, and a 3 percent increase in the company-owned and operated store revenue. North America revenue decreased 9 percent to 827 million dollars and international revenue increased 12 percent or 15 percent currency neutral to 485 million dollars. Within the international business, revenue increased 10 percent or 11 percent currency neutral in EMEA, 14 or 21 percent percent in Asia-Pacific and 13 percent or 5 percent in Latin America. Apparel revenue decreased 5 percent to 825 million dollars, footwear revenue increased 5 percent to 364 million dollars and accessories revenue increased 1 percent to 98 million dollars. Under Armour maintains fiscal 2024 outlook The company has maintained its outlook for the year ahead, which was provided on May 9, 2023. The company added that revenue is expected to be flat to up slightly. Gross margin is expected to be up 25 to 75 basis points compared to the prior year's rate of 44.9 percent, operating income is expected to reach 310 million dollars to 330 million dollars and diluted earnings per share are expected to be between 47 cents and 51 cents.
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Tuesday, August 8, 2023

UdK Berlin to hold international conference on fashion and sustainability

Credits: Official conference promotional visual, via UdK Berlin. The University of the Arts Berlin, or Universität der Künste Berlin (UdK), has announced it will be hosting an international conference on fashion and sustainability from September 15 to September 16. The conference is entitled “De-Fashioning Education - A critical thinking and making conference” and will “explore how fashion thinking and making, learning and teaching can and must change in the light of environmental and social challenges,” the press release shared by the university reads. The two-day programme brings together teachers, learners, researchers, actors and activists from twenty countries. The conference will provide insight into learning and teaching practices and didactic innovations through lectures, project presentations, workshops, screenings, museum tours and walks. De-Fashioning Education will feature speakers such as Sandra Niessen, independent scholar and defashion activist from The Netherlands, Sunny Dolat of The Nest Collective, Kenya, Loreto Martínez and Tamara Poblete of the Colectivo Malvestidas from Chile. As well as Otto von Busch, professor of Integrated Design, at Parsons School of Design in the US and his Parsons colleague Christina H. Moon, associate professor of Fashion Studies, textile curator Mayank Mansingh Kaul from India and creative director Anjana Das, also from India. In addition, the Berlin event will include twenty interactive workshops and The Incidental Quilt: a Hybrid Conference Community Practice with The Queer Needlework Circle Berlin, and Clare Farrell and Yr Jóhannsdottir. The conference will take place at various UdK locations in Berlin and attending it is free of charge. Those interested can register online or in person.
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Resort 24 print trends: python, checks and stripes: classics with a twist

Credits: Burberry, Ermanno Scervino, Rowan Rose Resort 24/Launchmetrics Spotlight There are certain prints that pop up every runway season. In particular, animal prints, stripes, checks and plaids can be so varied that designers are free to experiment with them and present fresh looks; plus consumers find such structural patterns reassuring. For the resort season, there were many snake prints, a wide variety of plaids and checks as well as various sorts of stripes. Snake Eyes Animal prints are a fashion perennial; perhaps because they can offer a maximal and a minimal look at the same time. For Resort 24 several designers showed snake prints and even more specifically, python prints. Balmain – designer: Olivier Rousteing Balmain resort 24 Credits: Balmain resort 24/Launchmetrics Spotlight The designer showed a heavily print-driven collection for resort, with plenty of western references. Among the stand-outs were several python-printed leather pieces. They were mostly rendered in natural colors. Balmain resort 24 Credits: Balmain resort 24/Launchmetrics Spotlight However, look 33 consisted of a blue and brown python-print jacket and an orange and brown python-print pleated skirt. Balmain resort 24 Credits: Balmain resort 24/Launchmetrics Spotlight Look 36 included a blue and brown python-print trench coat. Balmain resort 24 Credits: Balmain resort 24/Launchmetrics Spotlight In contrast, look 40 included a black and white python-print jacket and a black and red shawl with a sweeping black fringe. Isabel Marant - artistic director Kim Bekker Isabel Marant resort 24 Credits: Isabel Marant resort 24/Launchmetrics Spotlight Marant was another brand to lean on python-print leather for pre-spring. Among the looks were short shorts, a bomber jacket and thigh-high boots, all rendered in natural shades. Ermanno Scervino Ermanno Scervino resort 24 Credits: Scervino resort 24/Launchmetrics Spotlight The python print at Scervino was rendered in natural shades, as well as in blue and in green. In some cases it was airbrushed on lace pieces or digitally printed on recycled fabrics. Ermanno Scervino resort 24 Credits: Scervino resort 24/Launchmetrics Spotlight Check-In Time Just like animal prints, checkered prints and patterns pop up every season. There is something classic and a bit retro about them. Resort 24 will be no exception, with gingham, plaid and houndstooth all resonating. Burberry – designer: Daniel Lee Burberry resort 24/ Credits: Burberry resort 24/Launchmetrics Spotlight For his second collection for the brand, Lee took a modern take to the Prince of Wales check. He showed a series of styles, including coats, suits and dresses, in a pattern that was traditional at the top and warped at the bottom. In other parts of the collection, there was a liberal use of houndstooth checks and other plaid patterns. Adeam – designer: Hanako Maeda Adeam resort 24 Credits: Adeam resort 24/Launchmetrics Spotlight Maeda chose a classic black and white gingham check for a sleeveless top with a peplum and a matching gored mini skirt. Look 20 consisted of a long-sleeved top and pleated front pants in the same black and white gingham check. Adeam resort 24 Credits: Adeam resort 24/Launchmetrics Spotlight Tanya Taylor Tanya Taylor resort 24 Credits: Tanya Taylor resort 24/Launchmetrics Spotlight The New York-based designer is well known for producing eye-catching prints, and her resort 24 collection was no exception. In addition to a wide variety of florals, was a black and white gingham check, shown on a full-length dress under a black leather belted jacket as well as on a long trench coat teamed with camel-colored canvas. Tanya Taylor resort 24 Credits: Tanya Taylor resort 24/Launchmetrics Spotlight In a third look Taylor showed a halter-neck top with a large bow in the same gingham check teamed to a long sarong style skirt in a bold blue and black floral print on a white background. Tanya Taylor resort 24 Credits: Tanya Taylor resort 24/Launchmetrics Spotlight Balmain – designer: Olivier Rousteing Balmain resort 24 Credits: Balmain resort 24/Launchmetrics Spotlight Black and white gingham pants and a diamond shaped check top with matching gloves was shown under a bold red and white houndstooth jacket. A Change in Stripes Rowan Rose – designer: Emma Rowan Rose Rowan Rose resort 24 Credits: Courtesy, Rowan Rose resort 24 The French designer showed a button-through shirt in a bold variegated stripe in shades of emerald green, red and mint. An above-the-knee skirt was in a matching stripe but cut on the bias and draped at the waist and a longer version with a side split. Rowan Rose resort 24 Credits: Courtesy, Rowan Rose resort 24 Carolina Herrera – designer: Wes Gordon Carolina Herrera resort 24 Credits: Carolina Herrera resort 24/Launchmetrics Spotlight Wes Gordon’s resort 24 show took full advantage of its Rio setting with a series of looks in bright colors and bold prints. For looks 16 and 18, he rendered a cropped knit cardigan, shorts and a tank style dress in wide stripes of red, orange, yellow, pink, fuchsia and purple. He contrasted with black and white polka dot accessories. Carolina Herrera resort 24 Credits: Carolina Herrera resort 24/Launchmetrics Spotlight Christian Siriano Christian Siriano resort 24 Credits: Courtesy, Christian Siriano resort 24 For his first resort 24 look, the New York designer showed a black and white striped wide-leg trouser suit with a double-breasted blazer that matched fabric used in his furniture collection. Christian Siriano resort 24 Credits: Courtesy, Christian Siriano resort 24 For his second look he used the same material for a dramatic ball gown. Christian Siriano resort 24 Credits: Courtesy, Christian Siriano resort 24 Look 8 consisted of a top, pants and a dress in a dramatic black and white variegated stripe.
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Video: Valentino SS24

Valentino SS24 Credits: Launchmetrics Spotlight In this video you can see Valentino’s SS24 collection presented at Milan Fashion Week. Video: FF Channel via Youtube
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Video: Missoni SS24

Etro SS24 Credits: Launchmetrics Spotlight In this video you can see Etro’s SS24 collection presented at Milan Fashion Week. Video: FF Channel via Youtube
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Gucci continues commitment to accessibility and inclusion, despite leadership changes

Four Gucci employees smile at the Disability:In Awards holding the “Best Place to Work for Disability Inclusion” award Credits: Gucci Equilibrium website While Gucci's recent media coverage has predominantly highlighted shifts in leadership and a deceleration in Kering's revenue, noteworthy strides are being made in the brand's endeavors toward accessibility and inclusion. Under previous creative director Alessandro Michele and chief Marco Bizzari, Gucci became a brand with steadfast dedication to accessibility and disability inclusion, yielding remarkable advancements across all organisational tiers - from corporate headquarters to customer interactions within their stores. In the US its commitments were underscored with an accolade for "Best Place to Work for Disability Inclusion," as awarded by the Disability Equality Index. Now, as new technologies revolutionise the retail industry, Gucci said it is broadening its partnership with Aira, a smartphone-based visual interpreting service catering to blind and low-vision patrons. The initiative underscores the brand's enduring pledge to fostering inclusivity and accessibility for both customers and employees. Following a successful launch in Miami Bal Harbour and Beverly Hills stores, Gucci is poised to extend the Aira service to an additional 22 locations across North American cities, including New York, Washington, D.C., Detroit, Houston, Toronto, San Francisco, Philadelphia, Chicago, and Atlanta. Fostering disability inclusion Within the workplace, Gucci's systematic transformation aims to generate increased prospects for individuals with disabilities. The company's distinction in the Disability Equality Index, a benchmark tool developed by the American Association of People with Disabilities (AAPD) and Disability:IN, underscores its preeminent position in the realm of accessibility and disability inclusion, having achieved a perfect score of 100. Guided by the Global Equity Board, which includes notable figures like Sinéad Burke and Bethann Hardison, Gucci sets ambitious objectives aligned with Kering's broader diversity, equity, and inclusion mission. The Diversity & Inclusion Committee further translates these goals into actionable policies. As the company undergoes a radical transition under new operational and creative management, there is hope the foundation it has built will not be lost.
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Monday, August 7, 2023

Buckle Q2 comparable sales decrease 3.3 percent

Credits: Image: Buckle shop Image credit: 42031454 © Boggy | Dreamstime.com The Buckle, Inc. comparable store net sales for the second quarter decreased 3.3 percent, while net sales for the quarter decreased 3.2 percent to 292.4 million dollars. Comparable store net sales for the month of July decreased 1.3 percent. The company said in a release that net sales for the month under review decreased 2.6 percent to 95.1 million dollars. The company added that comparable store net sales for the first six months decreased 6.3 percent and net sales decreased 5.9 percent to 575.3 million dollars compared to the same period last year. Headquartered in Kearney, Nebraska, Buckle currently operates 440 retail stores in 42 states.
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Pakistan Accord outlines first supplier list for signatories

Karachi, Pakistan. Credits: Unsplash. The Pakistan Accord, an agreement formulated by the International Accord, has published its first list of suppliers, providing its signatories with an overview of the names, addresses and production processes, among other things, for those covered under the deal. The list comprises information on over 400 factories that supply 52 of the accord’s signatory brands, with the organisation stating that this number is expected to grow as newer participants begin to disclose their supplier information in the coming days. In a release, Joris Oldenziel, executive director of the International Accord, said: “This list holds immense value for us and all our stakeholders. Instead of merely naming the facilities supplying to our Pakistan Accord signatories, the data points in this list provide important details on the structure, floors, workforce size, and active brands within each supplier facility. “We look forward to this information playing a key role in mapping the Pakistani textile and garment industry and in ensuring transparency and accountability within the supply chains of our signatories.” There are a total 64 garment and textile brands that have joined the Pakistan Accord so far, just months after it had first been launched in December 2022. The accord’s introduction came after a decade-long push towards a safer factory industry in Pakistan, and had initially been modelled on the Bangladesh Accord, which was established after the 2013 Rana Plaza factory collapse. The legally-binding agreement requires companies to adhere to time-bound renovation plans in a bid to eliminate hazards highlighted during health and safety inspections. It further ensures that suppliers have the resources to pay for such renovations, while additionally protecting all workers throughout a brand's supply chain.
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AllSaints reports ‘record’ sales as international expansion continues

AllSaints Manchester storefront. Credits: AllSaints. British fashion retailer AllSaints has published its financial results for the year-ended 28 January 2023, during which time it said it saw “record sales and profits” as it continued on the path of international expansion. The group’s revenue rose 36 percent to 457 million pounds, up from 337 million pounds in the year prior, with its central AllSaints brand welcoming a revenue increase of 25 percent to 390.9 million pounds. For the label, revenue for both retail and non-retail was on the rise, increasing 22 and 44 percent respectively. Meanwhile, the company’s New York-based menswear brand John Varvatos, which was acquired by AllSaints in October 2021, reported revenues of 66.1 million pounds. The group’s operating profit was up from 18.4 million pounds to 28.5 million pounds, while its gross profit margin also took a step up, from 61 to 62.2 percent, driven by stronger full price trading. Its net cash position sat at 46.8 million pounds in comparison to the 31.1 million pounds it reported at the end of the previous period. AllSaints moves into China, John Varvatos returns to growth AllSaints credited its positive trading performance to its investment into a new e-commerce platform, as well as the roll out of new products and stores in Taiwan, South Korea and mainland China, where the company most recently opened its first AllSaints store in the country in April 2023. Alongside this, the brand has also launched into new categories, including sunglasses which were introduced in spring. In a release, Peter Wood, CEO of AllSaints, said: “This has been a record year for AllSaints, and these results are a huge credit to the passion, creativity and hard work of our fantastic team around the world. “The performance has been driven by our intense focus on product development, e-commerce excellence, growing our global store network, and rigorous inventory management. “During its first full year with us, we’ve also been pleased with the performance of John Varvatos, which has returned to growth and is showing huge potential in the alternative luxury menswear market. “Given the strong momentum across both brands, and our proven resilience in even the most challenging consumer environments, we remain hugely confident in the group’s future prospects.”
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Job losses feared ahead of Frasers’ potential Studio Retail merger

Studio Retail e-commerce site. Credits: Studio Retail. Employees of Studio Retail are understood to be anticipating job losses ahead of a potential merger between the company and two others owned by Mike Ashley’s Frasers Group. It is believed concerns had been sparked by a letter from Paul Kendrick, the chief executive of Studio Retail, which Frasers had rescued from administration in a one pound deal early 2022. According to LancsLive, which had initially reported the news, the letter detailed information about “significant cost efficiencies”, with the move to allow Studio Retail to “benefit from the longer-term group investments in technology by working on a shared platform”. The media outlet said that the proposal would possibly involve transferring all the business operations of I Saw It First and Missguided, two e-commerce fashion platforms Frasers acquired last year, to a single structure under Studio Retail. Staff were understood to have been briefed on the matter in a consultation meeting on July 17. In response, LancsLive said that Conservative MP Sara Britcliffe, Labour MP Graham Jones and union USDAW are stepping in to discuss the firm’s future and any potential job loss in the area of Hyndburn, where the company is headquartered. Britcliffe said in a statement: “I have worked closely with Studio Retail to protect jobs in Hyndburn in the past. I have been in touch with Studio’s CEO to ascertain how this will impact Hyndburn. As always, I will do my utmost to protect jobs here at home.”
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Salvatore Ferragamo CFO to become CEO of MinervaHub

Alessandro Corsi, CEO of MinervaHub. Credits: MinervaHub. Alessandro Corsi, the chief financial officer of Salvatore Ferragamo, will be stepping down from his role at the luxury fashion group to become chief executive officer of Italian manufacturing company MinervaHub. Set to assume the position on October 2, Corsi has been tasked with implementing the artisan industrial model of MinervaHub with an integrated platform for partners in the luxury sector. In a release, executive chairman of MinervaHub, Matteo Marzotto, said on Corsi’s appointment: “I extend a warm welcome to Alessandro. “I believe that the experience gained, and his brilliant career will be able to make a decisive contribution to the extraordinary platform of skills and creativity that MinervaHub represents, further enhancing our characteristics as a global unicum at the service of the best beautiful and well-made products in Italy.” Prior to this role, Corsi had served at the Salvatore Ferragamo Group since 2003, first entering in the group planning and control department and over time taking on positions of increasing responsibility. During his time at the company, he supported the group’s CEO on markets and strategic projects, including the company’s stock market listing in 2011. He stepped up to the position of chief strategy officer in 2018, and later became chief financial officer in January 2019.
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