How Turkish brands want to conquer Europe

Background Photo: FashionUnited The Turkish fashion industry wants to make it big with its own brands and no longer just act as a clothing producer in the background. The trade fair Istanbul Fashion Connection (IFCO), which took place for the second time from 24th to 26th August, should aid in this endeavour. So far, Turkish fashion brands have been more in demand in markets like Russia, North Africa and the Arab world. Now, however, the aim is to open up the West with Europe and North America, where Turkish fashion companies were previously active with their own designs and as manufacturers - but more in terms of the branding of other labels. One of the driving forces behind achieving this goal is the Istanbul Textile and Apparel Exporter Associations, which supports the new fair, but also other projects such as a fashion school and new brands. The textile association has 20,134 members. Membership is a prerequisite for local brands and manufacturers to export their products. According to IFCO, the current edition of the fair attracted 15,493 visitors from more than 100 countries, including EU countries, the UK, the USA and the Middle East. Of these, 2500 to 3000 were buyers. “Turkish brands are changing their image” Currently, Turkish brands tend to target markets such as Russia, the domestic market and the Middle East. However, they are now eyeing the European market too, which accounts for 70 percent of Turkey's textile exports, according to Cem Altan, president of the International Apparel Federation (IAF). “Turkish brands are changing their image because fashion is going through a revival. They are trying to do more European designs than Eastern or Russian ones - younger, more modern, different.” Articles at IFCO. Photo: FashionUnited At the second edition of IFCO, however, this reorientation was not yet quite noticeable. Only a few of the 300 exhibitors stood out - the exceptions being some outerwear and occasion wear - that could find a place on the European market. These, however, were surrounded by classic garments, lots of real fur and overloaded kitsch. Names like Color Colucci and Narsace, which have similarities to already established brands, could cause confusion. Fur was in demand at IFCO. Photo: FashionUnited'Narsace' booth at IFCO. Photo: FashionUnited One of the brands that could be successful with its products in Europe is Ar-ma, a casual menswear label. However, the Turkish brand has problems reaching and understanding the European market. Ar-ma sees especially Western and Northern Europe as “the most difficult market”, according to brand manager Berkay Melek, with the European northwest being particularly competitive. As a brand, Ar-ma is especially active in North Africa, the Balkan countries and the Middle East. 90 percent of its capacity is used for its own brand, with the remaining 10 percent allotted for manufacturing for other labels in France and Germany. In addition, the behaviour of the clientele is different from that in markets where the company is successful with its own brand. Nevertheless, Ar-ma wants to develop this new market for itself and is currently researching consumer behaviour. Ar-ma at IFCO. Photo: FashionUnited 2,2 billion US dollars of garment exports to Germany The Turkish garment industry exported garments worth 12.4 billion US dollars worldwide in the first six months of the year, according to figures from the Istanbul Garment Exporters Association show. Goods worth 7.7 billion US dollars alone went to the EU. Compared to the previous year, growth was 11.6 percent and 14.7 percent respectively. This year, the association expects an export volume of 23 billion US dollars. The goal is to double these exports. “As IHKIB, we have increased our target after the pandemic. We want to increase our ready-made garment exports to 40 billion US dollars in the medium term,” said Mustafa Paşahan, vice chairman of IHKIB’s board of directors. The trade fair in particular will help achieve this goal, said Paşahan. To promote exports, Istanbul Fashion Connection also offers seminars and lectures on sustainability, trends as well as export-related topics such as entering the international fashion market. Germany ranks first in exports of Turkish apparel industry, ahead of Spain, the UK, the Netherlands, France and the US. In 2020, 3.1 billion US dollars worth of apparel was exported from Turkey to Germany. In the following year, it was 3.5 billion US dollars - an increase of 13 percent. In the first six months of the current year, exports are already at 2.2 billion US dollars. Five brands for Europe und Gen Next However, the Turkish fashion association does not only want to be more strongly represented with its existing brands in western countries, but also wants to establish new ones. The official goal is to establish five new brands that will become the international shooting stars of the Turkish garment industry. Accordingly, Istanbul Moda Akademisi (IMA) was founded in 2007 to promote own brands while still in their infancy. The fashion school was founded by the association with the help of the “Instrument for Pre-Accession Funds I”, an EU funding project for EU candidate countries. IMA student creations. Photo: FashionUnited In addition to fashion design, students can also study fashion management, fashion technology and product development as well as fashion communication and media at the academy. There are also some additional courses such as styling, modelling and fashion journalism. About three out of 20 graduates of the IMA's design course start their own label, the rest apply for jobs in the fashion industry. Particularly outstanding talents are then sponsored by the association and sent to London to study at the London College of Fashion. As part of the New Gen programme, the designers return to Istanbul and show their collections at the ‘New Gen by IMA’ show during Istanbul Fashion Week. Video: IMA via YouTube In order to introduce the industry to up-and-coming designers and to bring them together with the fashion school, the IMA is also represented with its own stand at IFCO. In addition to information about training, there is also an IMA-curated trend zone at the fair. This time, the area has been divided according to the four themes “Filter Reality”, “Unity”, “Belle Epoque” and “Metaheuristic”. The inspiring colours, shapes and materials not only delighted visitors, but also attracted exhibitors from their stands. IMA trend forum at IFCO. Photos: FashionUnitedIMA trend forum at IFCO. Photos: FashionUnited IFCO’s plans for February 2023 For the next edition of IFCO in February 2023, the organisers expect more than 600 exhibitors, as was the case during the first edition. The February edition will be larger than the current summer edition because of the seasonal fluctuation - due to products such as jackets that bring in more sales - with half the exhibitors and a significantly smaller presentation area. In addition, lingerie and bridal and evening wear will also be shown in February and will be presented in a separate hall. This sector is presented seasonally only once a year in Turkey. From February 2023, there will also be an additional hall for sourcing. The IFCO organisers invited FashionUnited to the fair. This article was originally published on FashionUnited.de. Edited and translated by Simone Preuss.
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Item of the week: the corset

(From left) Image: Na-kd, Levi's, Na-kd What it is: Corsets in fashion have likely come as an offset to the ‘lingerie as outerwear’ trend, however their original purpose was as a supportive undergarment for women. Since its origins, its meaning has changed over time, and while, oftentimes, it is still used for festishistic and burlesque practices, it has also become a staple wardrobe addition for the average shopper. Designers often credited with aiding its evolution include Vivienne Westwood, who began using corsets for her punk aesthetic, and Jean-Paul Gaultier, who was most notably the brains behind Madonna’s famous pink satin corset. Despite already having a prominent place on runways in recent years, the corset’s wide use across AW22 collections suggests that its popularity won’t be declining anytime soon. Image: Levi's Why you’ll want it: The corset is often considered a statement piece for fashion-forward shoppers looking for an eye-catching layer to add to their wardrobe. However, the growing variety of iterations has meant that the corset has become an item that can be worn by almost anyone, making it suitable for those hoping to stay close to their comfort zone as well as those looking to make a statement. Additionally, its form further allows it to be a good investment item for all year round, with the option to layer it or wear it alone making it possible to wear throughout each season. Image: 11 Degrees Where we’ve seen it: Some designers for AW22 stuck to the corset’s original form, with the likes of Versace displaying the look through colourful materials and pairing it with matching mini skirts reminiscent of 90s outfits. Others instead explored the corset through more alternative routes, such as Schiaparelli, which offered up a flower embellished waist corsets or long-line silhouettes. Christiano Siriano similarly played with shape through oversized, off-the-shoulder sleeves, which contrasted from Gucci’s Adidas collaboration, where the duo displayed sportswear-inspired, structured corsets. Alternatively, Christian Dior implemented the corset into other garments, such as a dress or jacket, bringing a fresh silhouette to staple items. Image: Stella McCartney How to style it: The corset is an item that provides a wide variety of styling opportunities. When worn alone as a top, it can work with almost any type of bottom, be it a mini skirt or jeans, and particularly fits with high-waisted styles that further emphasise the waist. For colder months, layer the item with a turtleneck or button-up shirt, adding an oversized coat or blazer to accommodate the chillier seasons. The corset can also be used to bring structure to another item, achieved by placing it over a garment, such as an oversized shirt or dress, and once again accentuating the waist through the formation of a new silhouette. Image: Dorothee Schumacher The corset has a long history in fashion and has risen from a restrictive underwear garment to a staple wardrobe addition for the modern day shopper. As it continues to have an impact on the industry, it has adapted to trends and made regular runway appearances, keeping it in the spotlight and at the forefront of conversation. Image: Na-kd Similar items available for (pre)order can be found in the FashionUnited Marketplace. You can find them by clicking on this link.
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John Lewis Partnership swings to H1 loss as shoppers reign in spending

Image: John Lewis Partnership The John Lewis Partnership swung to a loss in the first half of the year amid the cost of living crisis. In the six months to July 30, the employee-owned company made a loss before tax and exceptional items of 92 million pounds compared to a profit of 69 million pounds a year earlier. Chair Sharon White said the loss was largely due to two main factors: The first is that while Waitrose and John Lewis each had more consumers in the first half year-over-year - 6 percent and 4 percent more, respectively - those customers were buying less amid rising inflation. The second factor is that post-pandemic customer trends have changed, with shoppers moving their discretionary spending from high margin, big ticket household items to restaurants and holidays, and from dining room furniture to dining out. White also noted: “It is not unusual for us to make a loss in the first half of the year - we have done so in three of the last four half years. Our trading is heavily skewed to Christmas with most of our profits coming in the last quarter of the year.” John Lewis H1 sales top 2 billion pounds Sales at John Lewis came in at 2.1 billion pounds in the first half of the year, up 3 percent from the previous year and up 4 percent compared to three years ago, prior to the pandemic. Fashion has been John Lewis’ best performing category, up 25 percent compared to last year with a particularly strong performance in holiday wear as Brits returned to travelling following the end of lockdown restrictions. Sales of John Lewis’ value own-brand Anyday increased 28 percent year-over-year as shoppers tightened their purse strings amid soaring inflation. On the opposite side of the scale, John Lewis’ home and technology categories, which had performed well during the pandemic as people stayed home, declined year-on-year. Meanwhile, Waitrose sales came in at 3.6 billion pounds, down 5 percent year-over-year and up 4 percent year-over-three-years. Looking ahead, The John Lewis Partnership said a successful Christmas “is key for the business given the first half”. It said it will need “a substantial strengthening of performance, beyond what we usually achieve in the second half, to generate sufficient profit to share a Partnership Bonus with Partners”.
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California passes bill banning PFAS in textiles

Image: Unsplash The California State Assembly has announced the passing of its ‘Safer Clothes and Textiles Act’ which would ban the use of certain chemicals in new fabrics and textiles. The law specifically targets per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) which have been proven by various studies to be toxic and can pose significant health risks, as noted by the Natural Resources Defence Council (NRDC). The act will head to Governor Newsom, who the Assembly said is expected to sign it into law, meaning it would come into force from January 1, 2025. If implemented, the bill would ban the manufacture, distribution, sale or offering for sale of any new textiles containing regulated PFAS. In addition, it would also require manufacturers to use the least toxic alternative when removing PFAS from their textiles in order to comply. The move builds on California’s efforts surrounding “the PFAS crisis”, with it previously implementing laws addressing the substances in food packaging and children’s toys. In a release, the state’s assembly said: “Banning PFAS in textiles not only helps prevent direct exposure to toxic PFAS, but also helps reduce the flow of PFAS into drinking water.”
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Ukrainian designer evokes the pain of war at NY fashion show

Photo de Yuki IWAMURA / AFP Fashion shows rarely begin with a moment of silence, but that is what Ukrainian designer Svitlana Bevza did Tuesday night for her country to decry the Russian invasion. She went on to present a collection rich in patriotic symbols. Bevza is an old hand at New York's Fashion Week, where she has appeared since 2017. She is based in Kyiv and has her workshops there but was forced to leave after the invasion in late February, and its endless explosions and sirens, to protect her two children. Her husband Volodymyr Omelyan, a politician who was a government minister from 2016 to 2019, stayed home to fight. You can see him on her Instagram account, dressed in military garb and carrying a gun. Bevza's spring-summer collection, entitled 'Fragile motherland' and unveiled at a building on Wall Street, was highly political. The blue and yellow Ukrainian flag was projected onto a wall. "Some people maybe do not understand that this is going for real. And today is the 202nd day of war in Ukraine. And there's thousands of people dead," she told AFP. "I was forced to leave the country with my kids. And my husband is at war," she added. She presented tops that are sensual when worn with skirts or pants but still recall bullet-proof vests. Some look like shields that expose the shoulders and navel. Grains of wheat -- symbols of fertile Ukraine as a bread basket to the world -- have a narrative stream through the collection. A Bevza necklace depicts them, charred black because "a lot of wheat was burned by Russians," she said. The ample cut of some of her skirts also recalls the fit of Ukrainian farm women harvesting wheat. "There is a deep sacred meaning of the bread itself and the wheat that came through centuries," she said, pointing to famine in the 1930s that was blamed on Stalin. "What we protect now, we protect the fertile lands. And what we are basically fighting for is to live free, to live in peace in our land," the designer said.(AFP)
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Vince Holding Corp to close Rebecca Taylor business as Q2 losses widen

Image: Rebecca Taylor, Facebook US fashion group Vince Holding Corp has announced plans to exit its Rebecca Taylor business “to focus its resources on the Vince brand”. The company said it is in talks with its lenders to finalize the wind down plan, “which is expected to include selling off its assets and exiting its various business channels”. It comes as the group's second-quarter net loss widened to 15 million dollars from 0.6 million dollars a year earlier. Group sales increased 13.4 percent to 89.2 million dollars, with Vince sales up 20.5 percent, but Rebecca Taylor and Parker sales combined falling 27.9 percent. More focus on Vince brand “Given the increased headwinds from the range of macroeconomic and pandemic related issues in the industry that Rebecca Taylor in particular has faced over the past two years, we have made the difficult decision to exit our Rebecca Taylor business,” group CEO Jack Schwefel said in a statement. He said the closure will allow Vince Holding Corp “to focus on Vince’s core businesses and our overall financial foundation for the long-term”. He said the company saw momentum in Vince across both womenswear and menswear as shoppers returned to “more normalized activities and events” following the end of Covid restrictions. He added: “While we are operating in a challenging macro environment with increased pressure on profitability, we remain focused on executing against our strategic initiatives for Vince, including the upcoming relaunch of the brand’s e-commerce platform.”
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Zara owner Inditex posts sales and profit growth

Image: Zara x Narciso Rodriguez In the first half of 2022, Inditex sales reached 14.8 billion euros, up 24.5 percent versus the same period of 2021. Sales in constant currencies grew 25 percent. The company said in a statement that sales were positive in all key geographical areas. Commenting on the company’s performance, Oscar García Maceiras, Inditex CEO said: “The results are explained by four factors, key to our performance. Our unique fashion proposition, an increasingly optimised shopping experience for our customers, our focus on sustainability, and the talent and commitment of our people.” Highlights of Inditex’s H1 results Gross profit for the period increased 24.5 percent to 8.6 billion euros and gross margin reached 57.9 percent, highest in seven years. EBITDA increased 30 percent to 4 billion euros, while EBIT increased 44 percent to 2.4 billion euros and PBT 42 percent to 2.3 billion euros. Net income increased 41 percent to 1.8 billion euros. At the end of the period, Inditex operated 6,370 stores. Inditex continues to witnesses positive sales growth The company’s store and online sales in constant currency between August 1 and September 11, 2022 increased 11 percent versus the same period in 2021. At current exchange rates Inditex expects a 0.5 percent currency impact on sales in FY2022. Online sales are expected to exceed 30 percent of total sales by 2024. In 2022, Inditex expects a stable gross margin. The company added that FY2021 final dividend of 0.465 euros per share will be paid on November 2, 2022.
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Joules shares dive 45 percent after investments talks with Next end

Image: Joules Joules has confirmed that its discussions about Next plc acquiring an equity stake in the group have ceased. After the announcement that a potential 15 million pound equity investment in the British fashion group had failed, Joules shares sank more than 45 percent. However, the company added that the discussions regarding Joules potentially adopting the Next Total Platform in the future will remain ongoing. “The company has an ongoing positive relationship with Next, successfully selling Joules products through Next's Label channel which will continue,” it said. Next and Joules end investment talks Joules said the group continues to develop and execute its strategy and turnaround plan, which focuses on driving higher profitability through: a better pricing and promotional strategy; focusing on more profitable product categories with shorter time to market; optimising the group's channel mix; and a continuing strong focus on cost control. The group's outlook for the full year remains unchanged. Joules confirmed it was in talks with high street giant Next about a potential equity investment back in August. But the deal was cast in doubt when later that month Joules saw its shares drop after warning it expects to deliver a full year loss before tax and adjusting items “significantly below current market expectations”.
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ITS Contest announces winners of its 2022 edition

Image: ITS Contest British menswear designer Charlie Constantinou, from Central Saint Martins’ MA Fashion Class of 2022, has been named the ITS Arcademy Award winner at this year’s ITS Contest in Trieste, Italy. As winner of the ITS Arcademy Award, Constantinou will receive 15,000 euros and a six-month mentorship by Pitti Immagine Tutoring and Consulting Direction. The international jury said that the British emerging designer was a “clear winner” and impressed them with his “highly creative, versatile and innovative” collection. Constantinou was inspired by extreme weather conditions, adaptability, functionality, and how Inuit tribes native to Alaska and Canada adapted to such harsh conditions. He presented trousers, accessories and knitwear, which the jury added were all “consistently executed and highly desirable” with a “strong sense of colour”. Image: ITS Contest; Charlie Constantinou The Central Saint Martins graduate was also awarded second place in the ITS Sportswear Award, scooping a 2,000-euro prize. For the award, Italian brand Lotto Sport challenged three finalists with a sneaker project. The winner was Chinese designer Hin Fung Jesse Lee, who twisted Lotto’s B.Stars sneakers and the shoe box with his zero waste cut-out technique, with British designer Edward Mendoza awarded third place. ITS Contest celebrates 20th edition in Trieste There was also a win for British jewellery designer Ruby Mellish, who was awarded the ITS Special Mention powdered by Luxottica award. Mellish impressed the jury with her transparent acetate pieces aimed at the selfie generation to take home 3,000 euros. Image: ITS Contest; Lili Schreiber The prestigious OTB Award, presented by the fashion group to a fashion, accessories or jewellery finalist, was won by Belgian designer Lili Schreiber for her “sunny, colourful, sophisticated, and upcycled,” collection. Schreiber wins 10,000 euros. Other winners included Ukrainian designer Dmytro Hontarenko who received the 2022 ITS Fondazione Ferragamo Award for his reworked footwear collection. The jury said that Hontarenko had “combined research, craftsmanship and attention to sustainability in his project, embracing the challenges of our present time not as obstacles but as incentives, with the spirit of the true creative, like Salvatore Ferragamo”. Hontarenko wins 5,000 euros and the opportunity of an internship in Salvatore Ferragamo’s creative department. Image: ITS Contest; ITS Footwear Award The ITS Media Award was presented to Mata Durikovic from Slovakia for her “inventive home-made techniques,” that used starch bioplastics as the fabric in the collection. Durikovic wins 8,000 euros. While the ITS Responsible Creativity Award, worth 5,000 euros, was won by French accessories designer Victor Salinier. Japanese duo Yudai and Anna Tanaka scooped the ITS Artwork Award for their “interactive, engaging and fun” wearable toys artwork to win 10,000 euros. Chinese designers Xiaoling Jin and Zongbo Jiang were presented with the ITS Digital Fashion Award. While Eva Heugenhauser from Austria won the ITS Special Mention powered by Vogue Italia award and Italian Lucia Chain received the ITS Video Presentation Award. Image: ITS Contest; Charlie Constantinou
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Timeline: Queen Elizabeth II’s impact on the fashion industry over her reign

Courtesy of Royal Collection Trust; Cecil Beaton, Coronation Portrait of Her Majesty The Queen, 1953 Over her 70-year reign, Queen Elizabeth II rarely shied away from making a fashion statement. From colourful sequins to distinctive hats, her wardrobe was highly recognisable and defined the aesthetic of ‘royal’ dressing. Following her death, September 8, various members of the fashion industry took to social media to express their grief of her passing and their condolences to the Royal Family, giving a glimpse into the impact the late Monarch had on those in the industry. As London Fashion Week braces itself for the upcoming funeral, set for September 19, with an adapted schedule and an array of store closures, FashionUnited has highlighted some of Her Majesty’s (HM) contributions towards fashion, including awards supporting British designers and her own clothing choices throughout the years. November 1947 Prior to her Coronation, Queen Elizabeth II was already making historical fashion statements. While marrying Prince Philip of Greece, the then Princess sported an intricately detailed wedding dress sketched by British designer Norman Hartnell. The piece saw 350 women work on its creation over a three-month time frame and featured 10,000 hand-sewn seed pearls imported from America. As Britain was still in its Post-War Period, austerity measures meant that people had to use clothing ration coupons. The UK government gifted the Princess 200 coupons to pay for the pricey gown, prompting women around the country to mail additional tokens to Elizabeth in the hope of contributing to the dress’ creation. June 1953 Hartnell was also responsible for the design of HM’s Coronation dress and ‘Robe of Estate’, which the Queen selected from a number of sketches presented to her by the British couturier. The final dress featured floral emblems and pastel-coloured silks, while the six-and-a-half-metre robe, created by Ede & Ravenscroft, took a total of 3,500 hours and 12 seamstresses to complete. In addition, the new Queen also wore a range of notable jewellery, including pieces originally made for Queen Victoria in 1858 and were later worn by Queen Mary and the Queen Mother. Image: courtesy of the Royal Collection Trust; Her Majesty The Queen’s Coronation Dress and Queen Elizabeth II on her Coronation Day by Cecil Beaton November 1965 The Queen’s Awards for Enterprise launched as a programme aimed at supporting British businesses and other organisations that excelled at international trade, innovation and sustainable development. Since its inception, several fashion brands have been granted the prestigious award, including the likes of Burberry, Gieves & Hawkes and House of Fraser. Selected by the Monarch, recipients of the award are entitled to use the Royal Arms in connection with their business over the course of five years from when it is granted. Image: Burberry, the Queen’s Platinum Jubilee celebrations February 1975 Queen Elizabeth visited Mexico on a state trip with late husband Prince Philip, and is pictured wearing a yellow pleated dress and a turban-inspired hat. Despite being the most talked about, this was not the only look she sported during the trip, during which she visited a vast number of Mexican cities and regions. Most notably, over the course of her 24 hour stay in Yucatán, HM wore a total of four dresses and a selection of various accessories, including a three-strand pearl necklace. 1994 Royal advisor Angela Kelly joined Buckingham Palace to work within the Royal Household and was later appointed as the Queen’s personal dresser and assistant. Kelly went on to create notable outfits for the Queen, such as her look for Kate and Will’s wedding. She also published two books on her experiences dressing the Queen, including the 2019 memoir ‘The Other Side of the Coin: The Queen, the Dresser and the Wardrobe’. November 1999 Queen Elizabeth II attended the Royal Variety Performance in Birmingham wearing a bright dress with a sequin top in contrasting colours and a striped gold skirt – an unusually bold outfit choice for HM. Following the event, the German designer responsible for the creation, Karl-Ludwig Rehse, told the Daily Telegraph: “People seemed to be thrilled at how she looked. She was stunning. She’s like all ladies, she’ll go for something new. She’s fun to work with and very knowledgeable about fabrics. She knows how the clothes have to behave – how they have to move.” April 2011 For the wedding of Prince William and Kate Middleton, the Queen showed up in a pale yellow coat dress and matching yellow hat, designed by her personal dressmaker Angela Kelly. The look consisted of a crepe wool coat and matching dress, with a sailor-style hat adorned with silk roses and leaves. She also wore the ‘Lover’s Knot’ brooch which she inherited from her grandmother Queen Mary. June 2012 The Queen attended the Diamond Jubilee concert in a gold embroidered gown made from fabric purchased in 1961. The design was inspired by the Queen Victoria Memorial in front of Buckingham Palace. The event included performances by Kylie Minogue, Robbie Williams and Elton John. July 2013 As part of the Queen’s four-day Coronation Festival, Buckingham Palace hosted a fashion runway in its gardens, open to the general public, and spotlighting brands that held a Royal Warrant. Companies that took part in the display included Dege & Skinner, Hunter, Tom Smith and Gieves & Hawkes, each of which showcased various products that had been supplied to the royal family throughout the years. Image courtesy of The Coronation Festival December 2014 Mary Quant, often hailed as the mind behind the mini skirt, was named as one of the honourees of the Queen’s annual New Year Honours list, alongside the founder of Cambridge Satchel Company Julie Deane, who was appointed an OBE, and the British Fashion Council’s (BFC) Caroline Rush, who was made a CBE. Designers who have also made the list, both past and present, include the likes of Vivienne Westwood, Stella McCartney, Grace Wales Bonner and Dior’s Kim Jones. The list honours those for their contributions to their respective industries. Image: Stella McCartney May 2016 The Queen made a rare appearance on a magazine cover for Vanity Fair to mark her 90th birthday. She was joined in the exclusive photos, which were shot by photographer Annie Leibovitz at her home in Windsor Castle, by her beloved corgis as well as members of her family. February 2018 The BFC launched an inaugural Queen Elizabeth II Award for Design, established as a means to highlight emerging British design talent. Richard Quinn was the first recipient, and was recognised for his impact on the fashion industry and the development of his print studio. The Queen was present during Quinn’s London Fashion Week runway, sitting next to Vogue’s Anna Wintour, and presented Quinn with the award at the following ceremony. Since its launch, the likes of Bethany Williams, Priya Ahluwalia and Saul Nash have been selected as recipients. Image: courtesy of BFC by Getty Images - photographers: Tristan Fewings, Tim Whitby and Rebecca Lewis September 2018 British heritage brand Hawes and Curtis partnered with the National Army Museum on a limited-edition collection inspired by Queen Elizabeth II’s military uniform that she wore during the Second World War. The shirtmaker was selected to recreate her khaki shirt and tie as part of the capsule, as well as a range of pocket squares, blouses and cufflinks. The collection was available to purchase at the museum’s shop and the brand’s flagship store in a limited quantity. Image: courtesy of the National Army Museum / Hawes and Curtis March 2019 The Queen made her first Instagram post through the Royal Family’s official social media account with an archive photograph of a letter written to her great-great-grandfather, Prince Albert. The image followed the Queen’s visit to London’s Science Museum, where she opted for a bright orange outfit. The look was linked to Pantone’s official colour of the year, ‘Living Coral’, and could be seen in further posts on the social media page following the event. Image: The Science Museum Group November 2019 Royal dresser Angela Kelly revealed in her memoir that the Queen will be using faux fur from 2019 onwards, following in the footsteps of big name fashion brands, such as Burberry, Versace and Gucci, that had announced eliminating the animal-based material from their offering. A spokesperson for Buckingham Palace, however, told reporters that HM would continue to wear her existing fur items. Since the announcement, the People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) has been urging the Royal Family to switch the Queen’s – now King’s – Guards caps to faux fur, instead of using the typical bearskin. A new animal-friendly material suggested by the organisation has been made in collaboration with faux fur manufacturers Ecopel and designer Stella McCartney. April 2022 Barbie immortalised Queen Elizabeth II with her own doll ahead of HM’s Platinum Jubilee in June, further adding to Mattel’s Tribute Collection. The look is inspired by one of the Queen’s most famous gowns and features a blue ribbon adorned with miniature medallions inspired by the Royal Family orders. Image: Mattel; Queen Elizabeth II Barbie April 2022 To further celebrate the Platinum Jubilee, Queen Elizabeth was featured on the cover of British Vogue for the first time alongside a second cover showing Queen’s Gambit actor Anya Taylor-Joy. On its Instagram page, Vogue said: “In a playful echo of Her Majesty The Queen, actor of the moment Anya Taylor-Joy wears a diamond diadem replica for her own fantasy dress-up moment as fashion’s punk princess.” For her own image, the Queen appeared in a black and white photograph wearing the real George IV State Diadem, in an image taken by Antony Armstrong Jones in the early years of her reign. Image courtesy of Condé Nast, Vogue April 2022 - Photographer: Antony Armstrong Jones July 2022 A series of exhibitions in celebration of the Queen’s Platinum Jubilee launched at various Royal residences, including ‘The Queen’s Accession’ at the Summer Opening of the State Rooms at Buckingham Palace and ‘The Queen’s Coronation’, which is being held at Windsor Castle. The exhibitions are running side by side from July to October 2022 and each display a range of garments and jewellery worn by HM. Notable pieces in the exhibitions include the Coronation Dress, the Robe of Estate and looks worn by the Queen during her Jubilee celebrations throughout the years. Image: Royal Collection Trust September 2022 The last pictures of the Queen were taken at Balmoral Castle during a visit by the UK’s new prime minister Liz Truss. Captured by royal photographer Jane Barlow, the images showed HM wearing the Balmoral Tartan, a pattern that can only be worn by royal family members approved by the Queen. The tartan is said to have been designed by Prince Albert in 1853, and is the only tartan to have been designed by a member of the Royal Family, according to Scottish Tartans. Its colour scheme consists of grey with over-checks of red and black and a background containing black and white yarns twisted together to achieve a granite undertone.
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Valentino looks to make its website sustainable

Image: Valentino Luxury fashion house Valentino is partnering with Karma Metrix to help quantify the energy performance of its website as part of its ongoing commitment to becoming a sustainable business. Italy-based search marketing and AI company, Karma Metrix Energy Efficient Website, found that Valentino’s website generates 2.56 grams of carbon dioxide emissions per page view, after analysing more than 11 million Valentino.com’s page views and accounting numbers and types of JavaScript files, images size, chromatic choices and simplicity of html coding. It made these calculations using its proprietary “innovative algorithm” to quantify the CO2 emission produced by analysing dozens of energy efficiency factors of web pages to define a path of sustainability and of energy saving. Valentino said in a statement that by continuously assessing its digital footprint via Karma Metrix’s algorithm, it will be able to measure its energy efficiencies and implement actions aimed at reducing its impact on the environment as it looks to “generate a positive change for the planet”. “Sustainability nowadays also embraces the digital sphere, and it is essential to start addressing the longstanding issue of digital pollution caused by web pages,” explained Valentino. “The CO2 emissions linked to websites - due to the fossil fuels powering data centres and end devices, alongside the current ineffective methodologies - are at such high levels to have raised imminent awareness on digital sustainability.” Ale Agostini, creator of the Karma Metrix project, added: “Facts show that the Maison, committed to generating new digital opportunities within the brand, is at the forefront of the green transition process. “We are pleased to join forces with the Maison to raise awareness that green transition also involves a more efficient development of websites focusing on energy efficiency. As Karma Metrix we are proud to promote positive change that aims to reduce CO2 emissions.”
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Double Take adaptive runway asks industry to look again at DEI commitment

IMAXTree for Genentech The Double Take runway show was a unique event which precluded New York Fashion Week by one day. Sponsored by Genentech to promote disability visibility, it featured models from the SMA community who collaborated with Open Style Lab, the nationally recognized nonprofit organization dedicated to creating functional yet stylish solutions for and with Disabled people. Opening the show was singer/songwriter/actor James Ian wearing a pink tailored suit emblazoned on the back with howling wolf embroidery. “Fashion is one of the ways that people get an impression of you without you having to say anything, through your clothing and style choices,” Ian told FashionUnited. “Fashion is a way to show the world who you really are.” Spinal Muscular Atrophy (SMA) is a progressive neuromuscular disease that can impair walking, dexterity, and overall strength creating different needs for wearers depending on body type as is the case within the larger disabled community. Some members use wheelchairs, and pants or dresses that bunch up at the seat are uncomfortable, while for others, sleeves and buttons can be unmanageable. IMAXTree for Genentech Shane and Hannah Burcaw, an interabled couple who have 1 million followers on their YouTube channel Squirmy and Grubbs, made a glamorous impression as they rolled and walked the runway. Shane’s sleek purple tailoring featured hidden innovations which Open Style Lab fellow Jenna Dewar, who co-designed the suit with him, described to FashionUnited backstage. The pants have two layers, the inside one in stretch fabric designed in an L-shape to reduce the surplus bulk not needed for someone who remains in a seated position, while the outer velvet layer is snapped on top rendering the item interchangeable for different seasons or looks, from casual to formal. Disability community neglected in most DEI initiatives The stylish ribbing detail on Joe Lakhman’s edgy red leather jacket conceals a series of snaps which allow the wearer to remove sleeves for easier dressing while also enabling them to choose between a vest or jacket option. This level of innovation and possibility should be of great interest to the fashion industry but, said Dewar, “For representation, disability is the last group to be included, and in most cases those that arbitrate in the media have an able-bodied perspective. We know, we’ve learned, how harmful it is to not include everyone’s voices. I hope that more shows become representative of society and therefore more inspirational.” IMAXTree for Genentech As on most fashion runways, the appearance of kids tends to steal the show as was the case when a waving Céline Domalski in a shimmering silver flapper dress with expandable side panels was accompanied by her mother Amber Joi, or when Otto Knutson rolled down the runway in his turquoise popsicle-printed suit gazing directly into the face of every member of the front row. Shoulder gussets aided his arm motion and openings in the jacket and shirt provided g-tube access. Each Double Take collaboration between wearer and designer arose from dialogue centering around how members of the disabled community typically hack their clothes to meet their needs. Ian would love to see some of his favorite brands such as All Saints, Palm Angels or Dolce & Gabbana introduce adaptive fashion. “A lot of the adaptive clothing is fairly limited in terms of style,” he said. “It might be geared to more casual or preppier style and I would like to see more streetwear or elegant formalwear.” Disability visibility drives first-of-its-kind Double Take runway show “There’s still a lot of work that needs to be done but what we’re doing this week is helping to reinforce the reality that we are a huge chunk of the population,” said Ian. For Fall 2022 wheelchair-using model Aaron Philip made her runway debut for Moschino during Milan Fashion Week and in the past several years the conversation around Diversity, Equity and Inclusivity in the fashion industry has heated up. But for Ian, a Disabled Black man, he can’t help feeling that none of it is happening fast enough. "My peers think the disabled community has been left out of the DEI conversation, they feel that it’s still not getting the attention it deserves. We can go a lot farther with it within the broader conversation.” For this reason the Double Take show is so important within the New York Fashion Week conversation and it gives Ian hope that progress is possible: “I’m excited to be part of the initiatives to try to move the needle forward.” Sponsor, Genentech, a biotechnology company which makes medicine for different therapy areas, has previously created initiatives within the music industry but this is the company’s first foray into fashion. “Part of what we do is to try to go beyond the medicine and create programs for the communities we serve,” said Adam Pryor, Senior Manager, Genentech Corporate Relations. “When it comes to SMA, a topic that kept coming to the front in every conversation was around fashion and inclusivity, so this sits within our SMA My Way program which is our broader commitment to the SMA community.” Now the question is: Will the broader fashion industry step up its commitment to the fashion-hungry consumers within the disability community?
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Coach dresses Lil Nas X for world tour

Image: Coach by Aaron Idelson In Pictures Coach has collaborated with award-winning rapper, singer, and songwriter Lil Nas X on a custom tour wardrobe for his first-ever headlining world tour ‘Long Live Montero’. The tour, which kicked off last week in Detroit, Michigan, saw Lil Nas X wearing six bespoke looks inspired by the narrative of the rapper’s metamorphosis and transformation, a story he tells through his performance. The custom looks have been designed by Coach’s creative director Stuart Vevers and combine Lil Nas X’s personal style with codes of the house’s heritage. The outfits include a gilded gladiator suit patterned with Coach Signature, a reimagination of American westernwear crafted in Coach leather, and an iconic American varsity uniform transformed with crystals and bright colours. The performance also includes a custom Coach Signature horse that also nods to one of the house’s first-ever codes, the Horse and Carriage, crafted of leather. Image: Coach by Aaron Idelson “The looks we created for Lil Nas X explore playful tensions between past, present and future,” said Vevers in a statement. “They reference our American heritage through the lens of Lil Nas X’s playful, expressive vision—combining the timelessness of Coach craft with futuristic elements.” Commenting on the looks, Lil Nas X added: “It was a really fun and inspiring experience working with Stuart and the Coach team to create the looks for my first world tour. They truly captured my vision, and everything ties together in the show perfectly. I can’t wait for everyone to see them.” Lil Nas X’s ‘Long Live Montero’ tour will run from September to November in various cities across the US and Europe and a just-added show in January 2023 in Australia. Image: Coach by Aaron Idelson Image: Coach by Aaron Idelson Image: Coach by Aaron Idelson Image: Coach by Aaron Idelson
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Grieving Britain cancels fashion, cultural and sporting events

The death of Queen Elizabeth II has led to a slew of cancellations or postponements of high-profile national events, from concerts to fashion shows and Premier League matches. Official government advice published on Friday said there was "no expectation" that events be cancelled and all decisions were at the discretion of those involved. Nevertheless, organisers said they had taken the decision to cancel Saturday's traditional closing event of the BBC Proms, an eight-week series of daily orchestral classical concerts held predominantly at London's Royal Albert Hall. The star-studded line-up for the rousing last concert included soprano Lise Davidsen and cellist Sheku Kanneh-Mason, and was to be led by BBC Symphony Orchestra principal guest conductor Dalia Stasevska. Friday evening's prom was also cancelled. This year's Proms had featured the newly formed Ukrainian Freedom Orchestra -- led by Canadian-Ukrainian conductor Keri-Lynn Wilson -- which included musicians who are now refugees and Ukrainian members of European orchestras. Organisers of the Mercury Prize, which recognises the best British or Irish album of the year, also opted to postpone the event, which had been due to take place on Thursday shortly after the official announcement of the queen's death. BBC Radio 2's Live in Leeds music event was also cancelled. 'Great sadness' London Fashion week, which had been due to start next Friday, which had promised to offer the strongest September line-up since before the pandemic, took a hit with cancellations by two of its biggest names. Designer Raf Simons said he had decided to cancel his London debut show planned for next Friday. "As the country enters a period of official mourning, we will pause during this time of great sadness," Simons said in a statement. "We will take this time to respect the legacy of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II and her 70 years on the throne," he added. Burberry also said its Spring/Summer 2023 runway show that had been due to take place on September 17 would not go ahead. In London, the unveiling of a new sculpture for Trafalgar Square's fourth a plinth planned for Wednesday was also put on hold. The Bank of England, meanwhile, has postponed next week's meeting of its Monetary Policy Committee, which had been widely expected to hike interest rates. The Bank said that the September meeting would be postponed for a week due to the period of national mourning following the queen's death. The new rates decision will instead be announced on September 22. In the sporting world, the Premier League announced on Friday that all matches had been cancelled this weekend. "At a meeting this morning, Premier League clubs paid tribute to Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II," the Premier League said in a statement on Friday. "To honour her extraordinary life and contribution to the nation, and as a mark of respect, this weekend's Premier League match round will be postponed, including Monday evening's game," it added. Other events scheduled for Friday, including Test cricket and European golf's PGA Championship was also cancelled. British horse racing chiefs also suspended events and the England and Wales Cricket Board (ECB) said Friday's play between England and South Africa in the third Test at the Oval would not take place.(AFP)
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Alaïa collaborates with Superga

Alaïa has collaborated with Italian heritage footwear brand Superga to elevate two of its classic sneakers. The limited-edition collection sees Alaïa’s creative director Pieter Mulier giving two of Superga’s sneaker styles a high-fashion makeover, embodying both brands’ love of clean lines, ease of fit and unique design. Mulier has added two Alaïa signatures, the “double-A” stitches and the perforated eyelets to the classic Superga 2790 and the Superga 2750 styles. Both the low-top and platform sneakers are available with off-white canvas or black printed croc leather uppers. The Alaïa x Superga collaboration is available exclusively in Alaïa stores and on the brand’s website, in a very limited number of pairs. Prices start from 310 to 490 pounds / 460 to 730 US dollars. Image: Alaïa x Superga
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New York Men's Day exemplified a new masculinity

Image: Chris Fucile New York Men’s Day returned as part of New York Fashion Week for its annual showcase of emerging menswear designers. This year’s crop of designers and brands included Amirok, Atelier Cillian, A. Potts, Fried Rice, Holo Market, Nicholas Raefski, Nobis, Teddy Vonranson, Terry Singh, Todd Patrick, and So.Ty. The big trends at this year’s New York Men’s Day were the ideas of a new masculinity, the use of bold colors, and playing with textures. Not one standard men’s suit infilitrated the entire designer lineup. Instead, there was a black sequin suit from Atelier Cillian, Suits with maxi skirts for men from Terry Singh, and a burgundy and grey two-tone number from Nicholas Raefski. Even on the more minimalist frontier, the idea of the classic suits or oversized cuts for guys went out of the window. Amirok’s collection was rich with an almost all-black color palette. Silhouettes featured elongated arms and slim-cut bodies. Right now, men want their clothes a bit more tailored. The oversized look had its moment, and after coming out of quarantine where people relegated themselves to baggy pants and hoodies, this is the countermovement to that look. New York Fashion Week kicked officially kicked off with the annuals New York Men's Day Atelier Cillian through any notions men had about what traditionally dressing up meant straight out of the window. His textured suits showcased quilted style mixed-media patterns, tweed, and woven fabrics. Noticeably, The models for the brand were all men in very heavy eye makeup. It was a bit of glam rock, meets camp, meets a formal event for creatives. Ralph Lauren alumni Teddy Vonranson even showcased a metallic blazer in blush pink. It’s evident that when men are looking for formal wear and tailored pieces now, they are thinking more outside of the box. The days of men just opting for black, white, brown, and navy are long gone. Traditional ideas of gender have long been changing in the world of high fashion, but now the industry is asking how mainstream can they get. The men in skirts trend is growing, as seen by Terry Singh who showcased an entire collection of men wearing skirts paired with formal blazers, tuxedos, and button-up shirts. In this new decade, we’re giving men options of what to wear, and skirts aren’t just for the ladies anymore. Then there are brands, like A. Potts, who are fully on the genderless bandwagon. A. Potts had one of the widest breadths of offerings with perforated maxi dresses, wide-cut pants, layered coats, and jumpsuits. Even cuts on blazers got shorter. Todd Patrick displayed an electric blue blazer in a bolero style cut on a male model, daring to take a suit’s lower hemline to proportions only a matador’s had been before. Over at So.Ty, the cuts were standard and classic, but they spared no expense on their approach to color with hot pink as the new black. It was long overdue that men step out of their comfort zone with color. New York Men’s Day could’ve been aptly titled New York “New” Men’s Day. The trends from cut to color reflected a new era in menswear that will hopefully continue to see more designers pushing boundaries. Image: A. Potts
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