LVMH Fashion Group names Michael Burke as new CEO

Frédéric Arnault, Michael Burke, Pascal Brindeau, Bernard Arnault, Bruno Le Maire, Laurent Brillard, Valérie Dubois and Jean-Christophe Goursaud at the Abbaye Vendôme workshop Credits: Louis Vuitton.



The new year brings a new chapter for luxury group LVMH's fashion division. After six years as the chief executive officer of LVMH Fashion Group, Sidney Toledano is stepping down from this role. Michael Burke will take on the role of CEO.


After joining the Arnault Group where he oversaw investments in the United States, Michael Burke led the American subsidiary of Dior from 1986 to 1992, followed by Louis Vuitton from 1992 to 1997. In 1997, he was appointed CEO of Dior and in 2003, the president and CEO of Fendi.


In 2012, he successively became the CEO of Bulgari and the President and CEO of Louis Vuitton. In January 2021, he also became the non-executive chairman of the board of directors at Tiffany & Co.


Since February 2023, Michael Burke has been a counsellor to the president, and a member of the board of directors of The Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (FHCM) since 2016.


Michael Burke to take over as CEO of LVMH Fashion Group




As the CEO of LVMH Fashion Group, Michael Burke will be responsible for overseeing the brands of the group, including Louis Vuitton, Loewe, Marc Jacobs, Patou, Celine, and Givenchy, among others.


Commenting on the news in a release, Burke said in a statement:"I am proud and honoured to have the trust of Bernard Arnault, who, after more than 40 years by his side, is now offering me an exciting and challenging opportunity as the leader of LVMH Fashion Group, home to so many iconic Maisons.”


He continued: ”Like him and Sidney, whom I succeed, I am an advocate for the long term strategy, craftsmanship, creativity, and excellence. These are the ingredients that will be part of the recipe I plan to develop with the teams of these Maisons to further enhance their desirability and set new records.”


”Sidney, with whom I share over 30 years of friendship, adventures, and camaraderie, has done a tremendous job leading these Maisons by fostering their creativity and sharing his unique leadership experience. I fully embrace the ambition to take the magic of these extraordinary Maisons to a new level, rich in their innovation, history, and craftsmanship," Michael Burke concluded his statement.


As the executive prepares to take on his new role as the CEO of LVMH Fashion Group, his predecessor, Sidney Toledano, has been appointed as an advisor to Bernard Arnault and will be leaving the group's executive committee. These changes will be effective from February 1, 2024.


Having worked with several major houses within the group, Sidney Toledano is particularly known for his leadership at Dior. Appointed as CEO of Dior in 1998, he worked on the brand's development and successfully positioned Christian Dior as the leading luxury brand.


At the beginning of January, LVMH Group announced the appointment of Frédéric Arnault, son of Bernard Arnault, to head its new watches division entitled LVMH Watches.


At the end of November, his older brother Antoine Arnault announced that he was stepping down as CEO of Berluti, of which he remains chairman.


This article was originally published on FashionUnited.FR. Translation and edit from French into English: Veerle Versteeg.


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Mango partners with Madrid Polytechnic University, gives employees sustainability training

Mango HQ in Barcelona. Credits: Mango



Spanish fashion brand Mango has joined forces with the Centre for Higher Education in Fashion Design (CSDMM, Centro Superior de Diseño de Moda), at the Polytechnic University of Madrid, to deepen its understanding of sustainability. The two signed an agreement and will develop a training programme that is set to kick off in 2024.


The university’s Centre for Higher Education in Fashion Design will train 250 Mango employees in sustainability, Mango announced in a press release. The goal is to train designers and buyers from all Mango clothing lines in areas such as recycling processes, the latest developments in more sustainable materials and fibres, certifications and labelling, and the application of circularity criteria when designing collections.


The training of Mango employees is part of Mango's strategy ‘to attract and retain talent at Mango,’ as per the release sent out by the company. "In 2023, our company was recognised as one of the best employers in the world by Forbes because it has an attractive and differentiated value proposition, which we want to continue promoting based on our company values, training and development, and rewards and benefits for our employees," Leila Rettali, global director of talent and organisational development at Mango, said in the release.


In addition, Mango aims to establish relationships and collaborations with institutions that aim to improve education and generate knowledge. In its news release, Mango also said it wants to take 'a big step' towards a more sustainable business model.


One of the goals for Madrid Polytechnic University is to 'improve society by generating and transferring knowledge and training future professionals.' To achieve this goal, the university enters into agreements with institutions and companies in the fields of architecture, sports, fashion, and technology.


This article was originally published on FashionUnited.NL Translation and edit from Dutch into English: Veerle Versteeg.


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Not-so-average: Victor Roseboro - Next Model Management Manager & Talent Agent

Victor Roseboro Credits: Courtesy photo.



When asked, ‘who are you?’ Victor Roseboro states that first and
foremost he is a son, and a brother to four sisters.



“I am a friend to several people that have been great friends to me. I
am a spiritual person. I am definitely a giver, a feeler; I am a lover
for sure,” said Roseboro.



“And currently, I am a model agent.”





About this series

There’s more to the fashion industry than jobs in designing
or styling. Like any other sector, fashion is a business so there’s a
space and a job for everyone. That includes a person who loves math, a
person who solely loves to shop or a business-minded individual.



The word “everyone” doesn’t just refer to those who have different
interests or job titles, but also those of a different race or gender.
We’ve decided to highlight how diverse the fashion industry is, could
be, and should be with a series of stories on Black professionals with
not-so-average fashion careers.





How did you get to work in fashion?






“Lots and lots of trial and error, and bumping my head and just being
inspired that if so many people out here can do it then why can’t I?”
said Roseboro.




Fashion was nowhere on Roseboro’s radar and neither was New York. He
attended East Stroudsburg University and graduated with a Biology
degree in 2012.



Roseboro had hopes of attending medical school, however, “I needed a break.”



“Undergrad kicked my butt and I also had this giant feeling in my
stomach that being a doctor was not what I wanted. So I had to go
home,” he said.





At the age of 25, Roseboro decided he wanted to move to New York, but
he didn’t necessarily have a concrete plan.



After realizing he didn’t want to work retail and would have to start
over as an intern, Roseboro found an internship on Cragslist.



“It didn’t have many details. I came in to find out it was the casting
director of Christian Dior [who] was looking for an intern,” he
explained. “I didn’t really know who she was, I gave her a quick
Google search, we did a Skype session, and I lied.”



Roseboro told her he lived in New York even though he had not moved
from Pennsylvania yet. Doing so resulted in the casting director
inviting him to meet with her in person.



“I had to scrounge the money together to buy a Mega bus ticket. I did
the interview and she hired me.”






According to Roseboro, working as an intern and working in fashion was
very much “Devil Wears Prada. Very ice cold.”



He continued to say the experience of working in fashion broke him a
little so he left the internship after a month. The next weekend while
he was helping a friend work a show, he met Roger Inniss, owner of
Boom Productions Inc. After a conversation, Inniss asked Roseboro to
join his team.



“It felt good to have this Black man just see me, and be like ‘join my
team,’” Roseboro said. “I got my first few paychecks from the fashion
industry which was blowing my mind.”



Roseboro then went on to work for Maurilio Carnino’s casting agency,
MTC, as a casting agent where he stayed for two-and-a-half years.



He said his path flowed from one thing to another, however he also had
several different jobs in the midst of it. For instance, Roseboro
worked as a waiter for four years to not only keep a constant flow of
income but to also have fluidity when it came to scheduling.



“Because fashion does not pay until it starts paying,” explained Roseboro.



What’s your current fashion job?





After being an assistant at Next Model Management for two years,
Roseboro became a manager and talent agent - which is the position he
still holds today.



“I have about 12 models worldwide that I represent. I also source and
navigate bookings for the entire Next Model Management worldwide
board,” Roseboro said.



He added that he loves finding new talent. “I do love seeing a girl
from St. Louis, Missouri, come to New York - skinny and nervous, and
18 years old. And next thing you know she’s hired to do a catwalk show
for Versace!”








What does an average work day look like?





“We come in, we all sit at a giant table,” Roseboro said. “It’s a
giant rectangular table, and it’s about 12 seats, six on each side, we
all have our computers and half [are] emailing and half [are]
discussing across the table. It’s very much a boardroom.”



The conversations happening around the table include discussing what
manager has a model that would fit a certain campaign or upcoming
project.



“You got to make sure your voice is heard. You got to make sure you’re
aggressive. You got to make sure you present to your clients in the
best possible way,” Roseboro explained.



“We're competing with so many other agencies in New York [and] around
the world too. So we have to make sure these clients know that our
girls are simply the best. And we have to make sure our girls are the
best. We have to make sure our girls are healthy. We have to make sure
our girls show up on time. [We] have to make sure our girls feel open
to come and talk to us.”





Outside of managing the models, the day to day is catching up on
emails, and sharing updates and campaigns at the board table. There
are also many days of leaving the office for business meetings with
clients.



“We have to make sure that we are clienteling and make sure our
clients have that face time with us,” Roseboro said. “So much of this
industry is based on who you know, it’s about that bond.”




A word of career advice





“You just have to start from the bottom and you have to do the work,
you just do,” Roseboro advised. “There is no way around it.”



He said it’s as simple as this: the people that sit at the table are
hard workers, and the people that no longer sit at the table were not
hard workers





According to Roseboro, life and great things always involve two
components: “being prepared and opportunity.”



“You can have an opportunity happen for you but if you’re not prepared
for it, it’s not going to work,” explained Roseboro. “And you can be
prepared for something so precisely and so well, but you just need the
opportunity. You have to have both.”





He continued to say that if it’s hard and if it’s new in regard to
an opportunity, “give yourself a year” before giving up.



“Be the best version possible of yourself,” Roseboro added. “Be so
perfect, be so undeniable with your work, especially as Black people,
because when we walk into a room [people] already have an opinion of
who they think you are.”



“It’s not your problem, but it is your duty to get the work done and
to get your experience,” concluded Roseboro. “Your name is
everything.”


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Green Carpet Fashion Awards to return in March

Livia Giuggioli Firth, Tom Ford, Cate Blanchett arrive at the 2023 Green Carpet Fashion Awards at NeueHouse Hollywood on March 09, 2023 Credits: GCFA.



The Green Carpet Fashion Awards (GCFA) is set to return to its home city of Los Angeles on March 6, once again pushing forward the message of interconnected cultural change and bringing together a multitude of industries to attempt just that.


Alongside founder Livia Firth, the event will be co-chaired by actresses Cate Blanchett, Helen Hunt, Julianne Moore and Zendaya, as well as singer, activist and founder of NGO The Circle Annie Lennox, minister of Indigenous People of Brazil Sȏnia Guajajara and Ugandan climate justice activist Vanessa Nakate, with more to be announced at a later date.


Honourees for the awards are selected based on six cultural archetypes – The Visionary, The Messenger, The Rebel, The Healer, The Sage, and The Futurist – each representing a different collective transformation within any community.


Among last year's winners were the likes of Tom Ford for The Visionary; British Vogue editor-in-chief Edward Enninful for The GCFA Game Changer; the Gucci brand for The Futurist and designer Gabriela Hearst for The Sage.


Each individual selected is recognised for their role in the sustainable landscape, the GCFA said, offering what the organisation called “a new lens on true intersectional transformation” for a “brighter collective future”.


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Birkenstock FY23 revenues grow by 20 percent

Credits: Birkenstock



For fiscal year 2023, Birkenstock reported revenues of 1.4 billion euros, up 20 percent compared to fiscal year 2022 on a reported and constant currency basis.


The company’s fourth quarter revenues grew by 16 percent on a reported and 22 percent on a constant currency basis.


Commenting on the company’s performance, Oliver Reichert, CEO of Birkenstock Group said: “The past year has been the most successful year in our 250 year long tradition, and we entered our first year as a publicly listed company shortly thereafter. For fiscal year 2024 we are confident to further grow our business by tapping significant addressable geographic, category extension and distribution white space.”


Birkenstock reports strong full year results




The company’s full year revenue growth was driven by both unit growth of 6 percent and an increase in the average selling price (ASP) growth of 14 percent.


Birkenstock reported an increase in DTC revenues of 29 percent on a constant currency basis, resulting in an expansion of DTC penetration by 200 basis points to 40 percent.


The company recorded a net profit of 75 million euros, adjusted net profit of 207 million euros, EPS of 0.41 euros and pro-forma adjusted EPS of 1.10 euros. Adjusted EBITDA increased by 11 percent to 483 million euros in fiscal year 2023, which translates into an adjusted EBITDA margin of 32.4 percent.


The company achieved a CAGR of 20 percent in revenues for the past decade, an adjusted gross profit margin of over 60 percent, and an adjusted EBITDA margin of over 30 percent.


Birkenstock records growth across regions and channels




In the Americas region, Birkenstock achieved 21 percent revenue growth in fiscal year 2023 on a reported and 20 percent on a constant currency basis, making the region the largest contributor to overall revenue growth in absolute terms.


Europe delivered 18 percent revenue growth on a reported as well as on a constant currency basis. The APMA region delivered the highest growth in relative terms at 24 percent on a reported and 27 percent on a constant currency basis with China and India as key growth drivers.


In the fourth quarter, Birkenstock reported a growth in B2B revenues in the Americas of 61 percent on a reported and 73 percent on a constant currency basis compared to the quarter ended September 30, 2022.


Birkenstock forecasts strong revenue growth for FY24




Birkenstock expects revenues to be in the range of 1.74 billion euros to 1.76 billion euros on a constant currency basis, reflecting overall revenue growth of 17 percent to 18 percent compared to fiscal year 2023 with all segments and channels contributing to revenue growth.


The company expects adjusted EBITDA of 520 million euros to 530 million euros on a constant currency basis, resulting in an adjusted EBITDA margin of approximately 30 percent.


Long-term, Birkenstock expects an adjusted EBITDA margin in the low thirties with slight variations based on its investments.


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Nichelle Sanders joins Highsnobiety as North America general manager

Credits: Nichelle Sanders via Highsnobiety



Highsnobiety, the media pioneer who since 2005 has appointed Nichelle Sanders as executive vice president, North America general manager.


Sanders, the company said in a statement, will be based in Highsnobiety’s New York City office, where she will drive strategic initiatives, cultivate and deliver key client partnerships, and oversee the US business effective immediately.


“Highsnobiety sits at the intersection of my passion for creativity, commerce and culture, and my background in ushering successful creative work. I look forward to bringing our capabilities as a cultural consultancy and creative studio to pioneering brands that are seeking to future-proof their business and build credibility in culture,” said Sanders.


Highsnobiety taps Sanders from a robust history in brand marketing - most recently serving as managing director for Mojo Supermarket with previous tenures at R/GA and Virtue, the creative agency arm of the publishing platform, Vice.


“We firmly believe that Nichelle’s vision, her leadership skills, and profound understanding of the market make her the ideal candidate for Highsnobiety’s next chapter in the US, and continuing to propel Highsnobiety as the leading marketing partner and media platform among the fashion, art and creative communities across the globe,” added Highsnobiety founder David Fischer.


The company added that her work has created impact across some of the most recognized brands in the world, from consumer goods and services including Nike, Maybelline, Old Navy, Meta, and Target, to such luxury properties as Estée Lauder, Shiseido, Beam Suntory, Hendricks Gin, Netjets and Nespresso.


Sanders also served as the head of marketing & strategy for Afropunk and marketing lead for Bluhammock Music, a record label she helped launch under Sony Music.


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Allbirds names new marketing and design officers

Credits: Allbirds



Lifestyle brand Allbirds has announced the appointment of two new executives to its leadership team amid an ongoing transformation period focusing on inventory reduction, cost control and operational cash use.


Kelly Olmstead, Allbirds’ former SVP of brand and marketing, has been promoted to chief marketing officer, a role she brings over 25 years of experience to.


Prior to Allbirds, which she had initially joined in 2023, Olmstead served in the same position at Hanna Andersson after spending two decades at Adidas, where she was responsible for leading brand, retail and digital marketing for the North America region.


In addition to Olmstead, Adrian Nyman will be taking on the newly created position of Allbirds’ chief design officer.


In his most recent role of chief brand officer at electric vehicle manufacturer Arrival, Nyman garnered insight into the production of sustainable products. Prior to this, he spent 13 years at Nike, where he served in a series of roles, including VP, creative director global retail.


In a release, Allbirds CEO, Joey Zwillinger, said on the new appointments: “Their deep industry expertise, operational capabilities, and creativity will add tremendous value as we continue to focus on reigniting product and brand in 2024 and beyond.


“As we bring new innovation to the market, their respective backgrounds will further our ability to drive brand momentum through product and marketing, and energise consumers.”


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Rag & Bone appoints new head of menswear

New York-based Rag & Bone has appointed German-born Robert Geller as its new head of menswear design.


Geller, who has worked at brands including Marc Jacobs and Cloak, has been with Rag & Bone since September 2023. He will present his debut collection for the brand for autumn/winter 2024 by appointment during men’s market in New York and Paris.


Andrew Rosen, chairman of the board at Rag & Bone, said in a statement on the CFDA website that Geller’s “creative vision will undoubtedly lead Rag & Bone towards a new and very exciting chapter. Rag & Bone has long been recognised for innovation and leadership in American menswear, blending traditional craftsmanship with modern cultural references.


“The brand’s authentic style has contributed to its pre-eminence in the American fashion scene, and I believe Roberts’s appointment gives us the opportunity to take the brand to the next level.”


Commenting on his new role, Geller added: “From its inception, I have been a fan of Rag & Bone and its menswear, which is rooted in quality and authenticity. I also believe that our customer wants to look his best without having to compromise on comfort.


"My objective with the collections is to introduce a renewed sense of ease and to evolve the beloved core pieces by incorporating refined and innovative fabrics into well-made clothes that will enable men to move through life confidently, matching the grit and edge of the New York City spirit.”


With regards to what to expect from his debut AW24 collection, Geller revealed that it will have a focus on “fit and overall silhouette,” adding that the brand is integrating the ready-to-wear collection with its Pursuit sportswear line, “while bringing a more fashionable side to the denim in a way that satisfies all of men’s wardrobing needs, celebrating comfort”.


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N Brown Q3 revenues decline by 9.3 percent

Credits: JD Williams via N Brown Group



N Brown’s third quarter revenues of 226 million pounds declined by 9.3 percent over the same quarter last year, while year-to-date revenues of 523 million pounds decreased by 9.9 percent.


The company witnessed an improving product revenue trend in the third quarter with product revenues declining by 9.7 percent versus 10.4 percent and 11.9 percent drop reported in the second and first quarter, respectively.


Commenting on the trading results, Steve Johnson, the company’s chief executive, said: “We are pleased with the progress we have made in transforming the business, the resilience built through our strong balance sheet, and that our full year EBITDA expectations are on track.


N Brown said in a release that the trend reflects an improvement in both - clothing & footwear and home businesses in the quarter. Strong performance was seen in categories including third-party branded womenswear and lingerie, beauty, gaming consoles and premium own-brand, Anthology.


Within partnerships, the company added, the launch of Simply Be on Sainsbury’s online clothing platform and selected stores is performing strongly in its first year.


Following the launch of the new Jacamo website, the brand’s sales conversion rate has increased by around 20 percent despite lower promotional activity. In 2024, N Brown plans to roll-out the new JD Williams website and the addition of new technologies such as our product information management (‘PIM’) system, which is expected to reduce returns.


The company expects slightly softer FY24 revenues to be offset by further margin discipline. Adjusted net debt is anticipated to improve when compared to previous guidance and is expected to be under 260 million pounds at the end of FY24, whilst retaining a strong unsecured net cash position.


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Milan Men's Fashion Week round up

Prada Milan Fashion Week FW24 Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight



Tailoring and elegance took center stage across the men's catwalks of Milan Fashion Week, embodying a central theme vital to the country's fashion DNA and businesses. These elements have consistently delivered sustainable success to Italian brands. In a world experiencing constant flux, the question arises: why change what already works?


Gucci




Sabato De Sarno's debut men's catwalk collection for Gucci sparked divided opinions. The restrained palette of the collection featured stylistic details like choker necklaces and long dandy neck ties, perhaps drawing attention away from any clear vision. In addition to suiting, which featured crossover plackets and contrasting lapels, De Sarno also showcased leather outerwear and logo bags, items that will likely ensure economic success for Kering. Despite some criticism, the true judgment lies in how De Sarno's offerings resonate with shoppers, and during Milan Fashion Week, Gucci's stores were bustling with patrons.


Gucci FW24 Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight



Prada




Prada took a subversive approach in its FW24 collection, focusing on the basic and familiar aspects of fashion. The show, set against a juxtaposition of an office interior and a natural landscape, aimed to reflect the environment and seasons. Prada's emphasis on the necktie, offering a less strict and more intellectual interpretation, highlighted the collection's basic yet casual vibe. Trench coats, colour-block trousers, and sandals contributed to a more relaxed aesthetic.


Prada FW24 Look 1 Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight



JW Anderson




JW Anderson's collection this season embraced a new sensibility rooted in reality rather than artistic novelty. Shoppers' demand for less gimmicks and more real clothes was met with fun and realness from Mr. Anderson. The collection, featuring oversized belted trenches and bomber jackets, demonstrated a balanced blend of personality and practicality.


JW Anderson FW24 Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight



Zegna




Alessandro Sartori's minimalist styling revitalised Zegna, refining its classic roots with precision. The collection, sharp and lean, envisioned a complete system of dressing with versatile pieces encouraging freedom and effortlessness. While some may find the severity of cuts too sharp, the artful layering of wool and cashmere separates showcased Zegna's commitment to modernity and tradition.


Zegna FW24 Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight



Giorgio Armani




In his ninetieth decade, Giorgio Armani's mastery of soft tailoring remains the cornerstone of the brand. This season saw a relaxing of proportions and silhouette, favouring soft, unstructured shoulders and a relaxed fit. The collection's understated luxury, marked by subtle textures and high-quality fabrics, exemplified Armani's enduring balance between contemporary fashion and traditional tailoring.


Giorgio Armani FW24 Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight



Setchu




Satoshi Kuwata of Setchu, the 2023 LVMH Prize winner, demonstrated a fresh take on contemporary elegance, drawing from his Savile Row experience. The collection delivered sophistication without being overly formal, featuring pieces that zipped, layered, and tied together seamlessly.


Setchu AW24 Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight



DSquared2




The DSquared twins, Dean and Dan Caten, brought their signature high-octane energy to Milan Fashion Week. While the showmanship tends to overshadow depth in the collections, their futuristic pod showcased models transitioning from one side to the other in full glam. Dean Caten's appearance in full drag to George Michael's "Freedom 90" track added a touch of humour to the vibrant presentation.


DSquared2 FW24 Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight



Fendi




Silvia Venturini Fendi described the collection as a juxtaposition of town and country, emphasizing the dialogue between urban and bucolic elements, tradition, and technology. The outerwear propositions featured blouson jackets and peacoats in blanket wools, shearling and the softest leather. Fendi introduced innovative collaborations, including a Fendi x Devialet Mania portable speaker and updates to the Peekaboo bag, showcasing the brand's commitment to blending heritage with contemporary flair.


Fendi FW24 Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight


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Mufti owner Credo Brands reports Q2 sales growth of 16 percent

Credits: Credo Brands Marketing Limited, Mufti



Credo Brands Marketing Limited, owner of men’s casual wear brand Mufti reported second quarter sales of 165.6 crores, up 16 percent and first half revenue growth of 21 percent to 284.1 crores.


The company’s same store sales growth (SSSG) for EBOs was 4.7 percent for the second quarter and remained flat for the first six month period.


Credo Brands recorded gross margins for the second quarter of 57.5 percent and for the first half at 57 percent. EBITDA and PAT for the second quarter reached 56.8 crores, up 11 percent and PAT was 28 crores, up 8 percent, while H1 EBITDA and PAT stood at 87 crores and 37 crores, respectively.


Commenting on the company’s performance, Kamal Khushlani, chairman & MD, Credo Brands Marketing Limited said: “We at Mufti thank the investor community for the tremendous support shown during the IPO. Despite facing these external challenges, the company has successfully sustained its growth momentum.”


“Some demand typically linked with the festive season has been deferred to the third quarter of this year, leading to a comparatively lower growth for Q2 & H1 FY24,” added Khushlani.


The company’s total EBO count at September 30, 2023 was 404 stores.


Commenting on the retail expansion plan, Khushlani said: “We intend to continue increasing our presence by setting up new points of sale and expanding our EBO network in existing as well as additional cities and regions across India. We expect emerging demand from existing and new cities will help fuel our growth."


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Armani's men mix refinement and nonchalance

Giorgio Armani menswear show FW24,Credits: Launchmetrics



The "king" of Italian fashion, Giorgio Armani,
unveiled Monday his latest men's collection marked by fluid cuts and soft
lines.


Under the piercing blue eye of the 89-year-old maestro, projected on the
runway's backdrop, models showed off the autumn-winter 2024/2025 collection in
the intimate setting of his historic headquarters on Via Borgonuovo.


"Men's fashion must not be an object of desire at any cost, it must be a
nice suit, a beautiful jacket, a lovely fabric, a perfect colour and nothing
more, or else we descend into carnival," Armani said.


Loyal to his DNA of relaxed chic, Armani presented ample but refined
trousers, and half-length unbuttoned coats that allowed freedom of movement.



Giorgio Armani menswear show FW24,Credits: Launchmetrics



For next winter, shapes have enlarged "to provide even more ease and
fluidity", he said.


His signature offering -- unstructured jackets with no shoulder pads or
lining -- were presented in a variety of styles: for a dandy with vest and
pleated trousers, or in a sporty version with cargo pants tucked into
boots.


The ever-existing challenge for a designer is to "do the usual in an
unusual way", Armani said after the show on the fourth day of men's Fashion
Week.


Ties were discreet in his show, generally thin, black or grey, hidden under
a blazer or often replaced by a scarf.


"A tie depends on the occasion. We have one for the man who goes to the
office, with the respect for this office, because I hope he's not going to an
important meeting in a T-shirt," he said.


Armani had already presented on Saturday a maritime-inspired collection for
Emporio, the upscale pret-a-porter line intended for a trendier clientele.



Giorgio Armani menswear show FW24,Credits: Launchmetrics

Zegna's 'cashmere oasis'



Fluid cuts and effortless elegance was also the mantra of Zegna's show,
which transformed an immense hangar on the outskirts of Milan into an "oasis
of cashmere".


"It's a collection for collectors. I hope these clothes will be bought by
people who will keep them for a long time," said artistic director Alessandro
Sartori.


The pleated trousers were ample, to be combined with turtleneck sweaters
and short vests of the same fabric. The vest lapels are detachable.


Sartori left nothing to accident, closely studying the tiniest details to
reflect men's needs. Pants and coat pockets were deepened "to let you slide in
your hands with ease," he said. Colours ranged from olive green to royal blue,
passing through eggshell, beige and grey.


Milan's Fashion Week finishes Tuesday with digital shows before the fashion
world moves on to Paris, first for men's fashion and then haute couture.(AFP)


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Uniqlo's parent company files lawsuit against Shein over plagiarised shoulder bag

UNIQLO | Round Mini Shoulder Bag (FW23) Credits: UNIQLO



Fast Retailing, the parent company of Uniqlo, is filing a lawsuit against fast fashion giant Shein. The Chinese e-tailer allegedly copied Uniqlo's popular shoulder bag. Fast Retailing is demanding immediate cessation of sales of the imitated product and compensation for damages suffered by the company.


Fast Retailing filed the complaint on 28 December 2023, the company announced on its website today. Shein allegedly sold a shoulder bag very similar to Uniqlo's. This significantly erodes customers' confidence in the quality of the Uniqlo brand and its products, Fast Retailing claimed.


Uniqlo's shoulder bag appeared in the Lyst Index in 2023, making it the cheapest product ever to appear in the platform's 'Year in Fashion' review. The genderless half-moon bag is the best-selling bag ever and is available for around 15 euros. How did the bag become so popular? Not through influencers, but through old, familiar word-of-mouth advertising.


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Liberty bets on own-brand products to bolster sales

Liberty London storefront. Credits: Liberty



British retailer Liberty is reportedly eyeing an expansion of its own-brand products ahead of plans that could potentially see the opening of dedicated stand-alone stores.


Evidence of such efforts could soon be seen in the launch of a full beauty offering, according to the Financial Times, which will run alongside its existing own-brand accessories, womenswear, menswear and homeware lines.


In conversation with the media outlet, Liberty CEO Adil Mehboob-Khan noted that the department store’s own-brands were among its best-selling products, and as such there has been “a lot of pull for that to go international”.


Mehboob-Khan added that there had been “a lot of demand for [Liberty’s brand] to go outside beyond our e-commerce”, possibly leading to new shops that would exclusively sell such goods.


He continued: “I do imagine, under the Liberty brand umbrella, we will have locations…If it continues like this, there will be demand and justification for us to have our own stores of our own brand.


“But I don’t see us try to replicate [the] Liberty [store]. It’s very difficult to get the magic of the place to travel.”


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Pre-acquisition In The Style tackled declining revenues

Credits: In The Style via Facebook



Last year, In The Style was marginally rescued from its financial troubles through an acquisition by Baaj Capital, which had agreed to take on the fast fashion retailer’s operations for a sum of 1.2 million pounds.


At the time, the British company, founded by the recently exited Adam Frisby, was undergoing a strategic review amid reports of a challenging period that led to the lowering of its profit guidance.


Such turbulence has now been reflected in In The Style’s latest financial report, filed with Companies House, for the year to March 2023, the month in which it was ultimately taken over by Baaj.


During this time, the company said that it had delivered a revenue of 46 million pounds, dropping from the previous year’s 57.3 million pounds and representing a 19.8 percent year-on-year decline. Its adjusted EBITDA, meanwhile, fell in-line with its latest trading statement, amounting to a 4.3 million pound loss.


Such figures were largely impacted by an 11 percent drop in direct-to-consumer sales, hitting 40 million pounds, with the second half of the year seeing a notable 21 percent decline due to what it said was “well documented industry peer performance” and the impact of the cost-of-living crisis in the UK.


Wholesale also took a hit, with revenues dipping 52 percent to six million pounds, down from the prior 12.6 million pounds, in light of the “prevalent issue of excess inventory”. The division represented 13 percent of total revenue.


The business further achieved a gross margin of 45.2 percent, representing a 131-basis point improvement YoY thanks to strategic retail pricing, promotional spend optimisation and agility in product sourcing.


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Everything to know about the first combined Pure London x JATC trade show

AĚCHEVAL. Credits: Pure London x JATC.

Last August, it was revealed that two dominant UK trade shows were to
come together in what was dubbed a “milestone” move to bolster their offer
and reach. Pure London and its smaller competitor Just Around the Corner
(JATC) are now preparing for their first combined event since the takeover,
scheduled to take place from February 11 to 13 at Pure London’s home turf
of Olympia London.



At the time of the merger announcement, Hyve, the event’s organiser,
said that buyers and visitors were to be offered “a transformed show with
an increased number of inspirational fashion designers and brands”,
combining JATC’s largely Northern-focused demographic with Pure’s broader
network of brands, retailers and partners. In total, Pure London x JATC is
to now offer a curated selection of over 300 exhibitors with clearly
defined divisions for a more cohesive buying experience.



Ahead of the event, FashionUnited has gathered all the information you
need to know before attending the new edition of this highly anticipated
trade show.



‘Cabinet of curiosity’



AD Magazine. Credits: Pure London x JATC.


A definitive part of this newly combined format is its overarching theme
‘Cabinet of Curiosity’, which marks a “lively new direction in fashion that
inspires a sense of wonder, experimentation and joy”. Speaking on this
concept, trend forecaster and founder of the show’s creative partner
Vesuvius, Malaika Ewande, said: “The main inspiration for the theme was
this undeniable fact that we have been seeing markets melt into each other
on several levels in the industry, so much so that the resulting products
invite curiosity and mystery in the best way possible. Cabinet of Curiosity
introduces a space in which the newer values and visions attached to
fashion (namely conscious consuming, holistic craftsmanship and a taste for
original, creative and lasting products) all collide through contemporary
art inspired designs that bring life and movement to the season.”



Australian brands grace the lineup



(From left) Soek, The Brave + True, Talisman. Credits:
Pure London x JATC.

A selection of both new and established brands from the other side of
the world will be among those beefing up the trade show lineup this season.
The inclusion of Australian brands reaffirms Pure London x JATC’s stance as
an international showcase, event director Gloria Sandrucci said in a
release, offering such labels “a gateway to the European market”.
Furthermore, the trade show also noted that many of the brands’ desire to
join the roster demonstrates their confidence in the UK market.



Among those taking part are “ethically-sourced” sunglasses brand Soek,
womenswear label The Brave + True, and chic-casual design house Sabine
Studios. Other brands descending from the region include Talisman, which
utilises hand stitching and embroidery for its feminine line, and The
Kindred Co, a lifestyle brand offering apparel and accessories for the
ready-to-wear sector.



Jewellery category gets an enlargement



(From left) Pig and Hen, Argentina Sibilia, Studio Lia
Etoile. Credits: Pure Scoop x JATC.

Considered the “fastest growing” division of the trade show, the
Jewellery section will be taking on an enlarged format this year, with a
location in the Grand Hall Gallery where dedicated British and
international wholesalers will be housed. Brands joining the division
include Dutch label Pig & Hen, brass jewellery specialist Argentina
Sibilia, Vanessa Murnane’s Amorcito and Spanish brand Studio Lia Etoile,
the creator of bead embroidery pieces.



Speaking on the expanded selection, JATC’s creative director, Juls
Dawson, said: “Jewellery is the fastest growing destination at Pure London
x JATC and as a result the array of brands in fine and fashion jewellery we
can host is truly exciting. Buyers are going to delight in the variety,
style and volume of brands available to them and following JATC’s specific
handwriting, the set up and placement is going to make the buying
experience streamlined and cohesive mirroring the flow of the retail
environment.”



Spanish fashion showcased through new partnerships



(From left) Skatie, Wearitbe, Vilagallo. Credits: Pure
London x JATC.

For this edition, Pure London x JATC has renewed or established new
partnerships with ICEX Spain Export and Investment, the Spanish Federation
of Clothing Companies, FEDECON and FICE to elevate the presence of Spanish
fashion brands at the trade show. Speaking on the expanded deals, Melissa
Ramage, international development director, said: “Associations play a
pivotal role in shaping industry standards, advocating for sustainability,
and championing diversity and inclusion. By aligning our vision with
theirs, we ensure that Pure London x JATC becomes a link where innovation
and responsibility converge. The UK fashion market is actively seeking new
international designers and exciting collections every season, and with the
funding provided we’re able to ensure our visitors find what they’re
looking for.”



Skatie will be among the brands taking part and representing Spain,
bringing to buyers a collection of “sustainable fashion” that is centred
around an active lifestyle. Similarly, Vilagallo will be returning to the
fair, bringing with it a limited-edition line of wearable garments, while
Wearitbe will also be exhibited, showcasing its collection inspired by
vintage fashion.



Inclusivity takes centre stage at Pop



(From left) Audrey Hamilton Apparel, Finding Friday, Rejoice
Bozho. Credits: Pure London x JATC.

Now heading into its second edition, the Pop division at Pure London x
JATC will be taking on an expanded format, elevating its exhibit of diverse
and inclusive fashion collections, each embracing gender fluidity or
culturally-inspired collections. Both new brands and returning labels will
be on display here, selected for their insight into pop culture and
connection with the present day. An example of such is Irish premium label
Audrey Hamilton Apparel, a Rising Star Award nominee which will be
presenting its new line in an art gallery-like setting.



Others to grace the Pop section will be loungewear and accessories brand
The Social Club London, a genderless label with versatile styles; newly
launched Finding Friday, which will be showing its SS24 capsule for
“free-spirited fashionistas”; and recent fashion major graduate Rejoice
Bozho, who will offer up its redefined “hiking couture”. Further additions
to Pop will also be notable established labels, such as AX Paris,
Glamorous, PunkyFish and Nove London, many of which are returning to the
event with their own new collections.



IHKIB partners up to exhibit Turkish brands



(From left) BSL, Zems, Shendel. Credits: Pure London x
JATC.

Akin to its relationship with Spanish associations, Pure London x JATC
is also extending its partnership with Istanbul Apparel Exporters
Association (IHKIB) as it looks to spotlight Turkish fashion brands for the
coming season. The expansion comes as Pure’s Sandrucci noted that brands
from this region had been “keen to target the UK customer”, with many
relevant labels having already signed up to reflect this sentiment.



Newcomer BSL is one of those, bringing to the table its range of
popular, trend-led womenswear. Meanwhile, returnee Shendel will also be
present, offering up a curation of collections putting together colour
combinations and accessories, with the addition of a Pure exclusive line to
further be on show. Zems is another to return to the event, once again
presenting its feminine garments that celebrate “glamour and
individuality”.



Sustainability’s destination is cemented



(From left) Noema, Tine Aileen, Nudea. Credits: Pure
London x JATC.

Another section that will be getting a slight rejuvenation this edition
is Sustainability. The emphasis on this division comes as the trade shows
look to reaffirm their mission to use the event as a platform “to inform on
this critical topic and provide unrivalled advice to independent retailers
and exhibitors”. As such, the February edition will be home to a curated
selection of “conscious exhibitors”, using the United Nations Sustainable
Development Goals (SDGs) as a base to assess the impact of all such
attendees.



First time exhibitors that have been added to the show this time round
include made-to-measure label Tina Aileen, which will for the first time
show off a bridal collection designed using fabric that encourages
customers to return to be recycled. Other circular labels on the agenda are
sleepwear brand Nudea, a B-Corp that puts to use natural and recycled
materials, and Ireland’s Noema, which showcases designs made from
biodegradable native fabrics. Meanwhile, Humanity Centred Designs will be
hosting its Material Innovation Hub at the show, outlining its process of
producing materials from the textile waste of marginalised apparel
factories. Alongside this, the organisation will also be presenting its
‘Humanity’ fashion collection, all designed in neutral colours and
patterns.


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Frasers Group reportedly snaps up former JD-owned stores in the Netherlands

The Perry Sport in Amsterdam is having a sale. Credits: FashionUnited



A relaunch is in the works for part of the Perry Sport, Aktiesport and Sprinter stores, with British retail giant Frasers Group understood to be taking on their operations.


It comes after the parent company of Perry Sport, Aktiesport and Sprinter, Sports Unlimited Retail went bankrupt in December. At that time, 54 stores were owned by the company. Dutch media outlet RTLZ has now reported that up to 20 of the stores will continue. The actual number is not yet certain, which also makes it difficult to say anything about the jobs that will be retained. In doing so, it is also not clear what will happen to the names on the storefronts.


In the Aktiesport, Perry Sport and Sprinter stores, a clearance sale has been taking place since the declaration of bankruptcy in December. In the locations, only debit cards can be used and various discounts are given. Online orders can no longer be placed.


What will happen to the remaining stores in Sports Unlimited Retail's portfolio is also unclear. Several interested parties were reported to have come forward in December, according to RTLZ.


A Sprinter branch in Amsterdam advertises discount promotions. Credits: FashionUnited



Partial reboot of Perry Sport, Aktiesport and Sprinter stores




Perry Sport and Aktiesport were acquired by the UK's JD Sports in 2016, which at the time had rescued the labels from the bankruptcy of United Sports Group (USG). JD Sports paid 26.5 million euros for the two Dutch chains.


Both Perry Sport and Aktiesport were incorporated into a new subsidiary: Sports Unlimited Retail. This was in turn transferred to another JD Sports subsidiary, Iberian Sports Retail Group S.L., for which the group was already a majority stakeholder. Later, in 2023, the British company acquired all the shares of the Spanish group, once again giving it full ownership of Perry Sport and Aktiesport.


In the summer of 2023, it was announced that Perry Sport and Aktiesport were being converted to the Sprinter formula. Sprinter is a Spanish sister chain of the two sports retailers. Consequently, the green and white logo of Sprinter appeared in the Dutch streetscape. This rollout seems to have been accomplished recently.


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Fursac MD departs, SMCP CEO appointed to helm

Fursac Credits: Fursac



It has been confirmed that Fursac’s former managing director, Jérémie Le Febvre, has stepped down from the helm position almost one year on from his initial appointment.


As such, the chief executive officer of the Italian brand’s parent company SMCP, Isabelle Guichot, is to take on the management on an interim basis, with assistance of Ilan Chetrite, founder of Sandro Homme.


The shift was outlined in a statement to FashionNetwork, for which the luxury conglomerate noted: "The Fursac teams, together with its creative director, Gauthier Borsarello, are fully mobilised to ensure the brand's next important milestones run smoothly, including the presentation at Fashion Week on January 18 and the brand's continued international expansion in Korea."


Le Febvre had first joined Fursac, and SMCP’s executive committee, back in May 2023, after serving as CEO for British designer label A-Cold-Wall since November 2022.


At the time, Fursac had been enjoying a strong financial streak, with its net profits more than doubling to 51 million euros, as reported in March.


More recently, however, the SMCP’s overall group sales have been slipping. In October 2023, the company reported a 4.4 percent drop in sales for the third quarter as it continued to face a challenging trading backdrop.


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Kering and Johnston of Elgin join forces with Spiber for circularity project

Spiber panel session at Biofabricate Paris Summit Credits: Spiber



Kering’s Material Innovation Lab, brands Eileen Fisher Inc. and Johnstons of Elgin, alongside dye and chemical manufacturer DyStar are joining Spiber’s ‘Biosphere Circulation Project’ to transform end-of-use textiles and agricultural by-products into new materials.


The initiative will see the brands supplying sample materials composed of specific fibres processed with key types of textile chemicals for Spiber’s lab-scale testing. The Japanese biotechnology start-up will then test and analyse how certain chemicals, like finishing agents and colourants, affect the conversion of cellulose and protein-based materials into nutrients that can be used in Spiber’s fermentation process, such as sugars and amino acids.


The primary objective of this project is to drive progress towards the creation of fully circular textile products that can be regenerated at an industrial scale into Spiber’s innovative Brewed Protein materials made from plant-based sugars utilising microbial fermentation technology at the end of their lifecycle.


Spiber intends to compile the results from its testing into a database that will indicate the efficiency of different materials in combination with textile chemicals when converted into nutrients for fermentation. This database will serve as a resource for the industry to refer to when designing products for circularity and products, and which will be compatible with circularity solutions, such as Spiber’s biosphere circulation system in the future.


Christian Tubito, director at Kering Material Innovation Lab, said in a statement: “To achieve a more circular textile industry, different multilevel approaches are necessary as well as validating and deploying different solutions.


“The ‘Biosphere Circulation Project’ is an ambitious and challenging initiative opening a new path to textile recycling. From being a last resort, recycling can become a new promising alternative for unusable textile materials.”


Spiber booth at Biofabricate Paris Summit Credits: Spiber



The news was announced at the Biofabricate Paris Summit and will see Kering’s Material Innovation Lab, Eileen Fisher Inc., Johnstons of Elgin and DyStar joining ski brand Goldwin and sportswear brand Pangaia, who began participating in the project in June 2023.


Inka Apter, director of material sustainability and integrity at Eileen Fisher Inc., added: “We need all the tools in our toolbox in order to jointly move our industry forward towards a circular economy for textiles.


“The biosphere circulation project looks at the fundamental principles of circularity at the level of building blocks of our materials, including dyes and finishes. It is a new yet essential approach to circularity that Eileen Fisher Inc. is glad to support. Let’s solve these challenges collaboratively!”


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Derek Lam becomes creative director of Câllas

Derek Lam at the finale of his FW18 show. Credits: Launchmetrics Spotlight



Designer Derek Lam is set to join the Italian brand, Câllas, as its latest creative director. The first collection by his hand will already be presented during the upcoming February, as part of New York Fashion Week. The news was reported by WWD and FashionNetwork, among other media outlets.


Lam is no stranger to the Câllas brand. In fact, the label was founded by Han-Hendrik Schlottmann, Lam's husband, and Marco Panzeri. The brand focuses on luxury women's fashion with a modern style.


"With Câllas, I want to create clothes for discerning women who appreciate fashion of sustainable quality produced responsibly. My immediate goal is to establish a clear and recognizable brand identity, focusing on distinctive silhouettes in all categories with Câllas' ethos of responsibly made luxury fashion," Lam told FashionNetwork.


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In Pictures: 11 Brands getting fired up for Lunar New Year

In Pictures

Self-portrait Lunar New Year campaign. Credits:
Self-portrait/Leslie Zhang.

As the Year of the Dragon looms, luxury and premium brands from around
the globe are banking on specialised Lunar New Year collections to draw in
their desired consumer. Alongside the exclusive lines, such labels are also
feeding buyers with standout campaigns, each designed to encapsulate the
seasonal holiday and its deeply historic traditions. Ahead of the occasion,
which is to take place February 10, FashionUnited has rounded up some of
the most notable campaigns and collections for this year.



Barbour



Barbour Lunar New Year collection. Credits: Barbour.


British outerwear specialist Barbour entered the Lunar New Year race
with a six-piece collection honouring Chinese traditions. A plaid shirt,
sweatshirt, cap and scarf are among the curation, as are two classic
Barbour designs – the wax jacket and diamond-padded coat, both with a
special label embroidered into the lining. At the core of the collection is
a bright red hue, which the brand said was featured as a statement colour
to symbolise success and good fortune.



Boss



Boss Lunar New Year campaign in collaboration with Feng
Tang. Credits: Boss.

For its own celebratory collection, Boss collaborated with novelist and
calligrapher Feng Tang on a dragon-themed capsule that drew inspiration
from Chinese calligraphy. Inspiration from the art form’s characters and
patterns can be seen throughout the line, while the symbolic dragon is
placed at the core as the hero motif. Both men’s and women’s pieces
complete the collection, merging the brand’s signature collegiate-style and
gender-neutral classics with an aesthetic that aims to radiate a Chinese
festive spirit.

Boss Lunar New Year campaign in collaboration with Feng
Tang. Credits: Boss.

Burberry



Burberry Lunar New Year campaign. Credits: Burberry.


In keeping with the brand’s signature codes, Burberry’s Lunar New Year
collection focused on British wardrobe archetypes, showcasing features like
houndstooth checks and rose prints with a refreshed twist aligning with the
festive period. The looks were showcased in a dedicated campaign shot in
Chengdu and sported by the brand’s ambassadors Tang Wei and Chen Kun, among
other models and influential figures.

Burberry Lunar New Year campaign. Credits: Burberry.


MCM x Bape



MCM x Bape, Lunar New Year collection Credits:
MCM

In what is now the duo’s second collaboration, German luxury label MCM
and Japanese streetwear brand A Bathing Ape (Bape) came together on a
capsule for Lunar New Year. The pieces merge Bape’s recognisable motifs
with MCM’s signature Visetos monogram, resulting in a selection of
co-branded products that aim to offer a playful take on graphic
applications. Among them are a Shark Hoodie, backpack, belt bag, pouch and
tote, which sit alongside other MCM silhouettes, each reimagined with
Bape’s own streetwear twist.

MCM x Bape, Lunar New Year collection Credits:
MCM

Read more:


* MCM and Bape reunite for Lunar New Year collection







Tommy Hilfiger x Clot



Tommy Hilfiger x Clot, Lunar New Year campaign imagery.
Credits: Tommy Hilfiger.

Tommy Hilfiger also favoured collaboration for its own seasonal
collection, partnering with Clot on a line that celebrated the streetwear
label’s 20th anniversary. Inspired by Chinese youth culture, the duo worked
together on 23 “bold new classics”, rejuvenating Hilfiger archive pieces in
what looked to portray an “East-meets-West sensibility”. Among the
offerings are that of a reversible bomber, tracksuit, rugby shirt and
crewneck, each emblazoned with dragon prints and other co-branded monograms
further cementing the sense of collaboration.

Tommy Hilfiger x Clot, Lunar New Year campaign imagery.
Credits: Tommy Hilfiger.

Self-portrait



Self-portrait Lunar New Year campaign. Credits:
Self-portrait/Leslie Zhang.

Han Chong’s Self-portrait was another to launch a dedicated Year of the
Dragon special this year, appointing a cast of notable women – namely
Malaysian model Ling Tan and actress Carina Lau – to lead the campaign,
shot in Shanghai by longtime brand collaborator Leslie Zhang. Like the
brand’s coinciding Lunar New Year collection, the imagery draws on the
annual tradition of sharing rituals, paying tribute to the holiday with
looks inspired by the cheongsam – a traditional Chinese gown.

Self-portrait Lunar New Year campaign. Credits:
Self-portrait/Leslie Zhang.

Fendi x Pokémon x Fragment



Fendi x Frgmt x Pokémon collection Credits:
Fendi

Italian fashion brand Fendi partnered with game franchise Pokémon and
Hiroshi Fujiwara’s streetwear label Fragment on a celebratory collection of
apparel, bags and accessories. Suitably, the stars of the collection were
dragon-type Pokémons, including ‘Dragonair’, ‘Dratini’ and ‘Dragonite’, who
each featured on various staple pieces, such as Fendi’s iconic Peekaboo and
Baguette bags, among others.

Fendi x Frgmt x Pokémon collection Credits:
Fendi

Read more:


* Fendi unveils collaboration with Fragment and
Pokémon







Miu Miu



Miu Miu's Upcycled denim campaign for Lunar New Year.
Credits: Miu Miu/Jet Swan.

Coinciding with the release of its fourth Upcycled collection, Miu Miu
has unveiled an accompanying campaign to both introduce the capsule and
celebrate the impending Lunar New Year. In it, pieces from the circular
‘Denim and Patch’ bags collection can be seen alongside polo shirts,
cardigans and cashmere slips, with a particular emphasis on upcycled jeans.
It is also the first collection to include bags among the upcycled
offering, with the Miu Miu Upcycled Patch bag, made out of “leather
remnants” from the brand’s designs, existing as a core product.

Miu Miu's Upcycled denim campaign for Lunar New Year.
Credits: Miu Miu/Jet Swan.

Prada



Prada Lunar New Year campaign. Credits: Prada.


Like its sibling brand, Prada also set about making a dedicated Lunar
New Year campaign. For it, a series of portraits depicting the essence of
arthouse cinema capture a number of notable Chinese figures – among them,
supermodel and actress Du Jaun, and the face of Yang Fudong’s film First
Spring, Zhao Lei. The talents are displayed amid a contemporary Chinese
cultural scene set in the Prada Rong Zhai residence, both sporting a
selection of exclusive men’s and women’s ready-to-wear and accessories,
some of which incorporate the brand’s circular Re-Nylon concept.

Prada Lunar New Year campaign. Credits: Prada.


Mulberry



Mulberry x Mira Mikati - Lunar New Year collection
Credits: Mulberry

Together with Lebanese designer Mire Mikati, Mulberry celebrated the
Year of the Dragon with a capsule collection of bags, ready-to-wear and
accessories that each look to showcase the season’s “joyous spirit”. A
dragon animation is at the core of the line, appearing as a motif alongside
an array of bright tassels, braided straps and fringing. Among the
highlights are refreshed takes on Mulberry’s Clovelly Tote and Mini Tote,
as well as its signature Antony messenger.

Mulberry x Mira Mikati - Lunar New Year collection
Credits: Mulberry

Read more:


* Mulberry teams up with Mira Mikati for Year of the
Dragon







Valentino



Yang Zi in Valentino's Lunar New Year campaign. Credits:
Valentino.

Putting a particular emphasis on the house’s mainstay hue ‘Rosso
Valentino’, the luxury fashion label Valentino launched its own Chinese New
Year collection for 2024 with a series of red adorned garments that aim to
deepen the brand’s reverence for local culture. Ambassadors Yang Yang and
Yang Zi are at the forefront of the campaign, each donning a selection of
the exclusive collection, including a red VLogo Jacket, the Garavani VLogo
Signature slingback, the VLogo Loco mini bag and One Stud sneakers.

Yang Yang in Valentino's Lunar New Year campaign.
Credits: Valentino.


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Some clothing rental businesses are seeing subscribers dwindle

Clothing rental and subscription service Rent the Runway Credits: Rent the Runway



Monthly subscription fees ranging from 90 to 240 dollars for rented clothes may be perceived as an unnecessary expense, prompting subscribers to cancel their memberships.


It is one of the reasons companies like Rent the Runway is banking on clothing from in-demand designers to retain customers and counter recent subscriber losses, while rival Stitch Fix is focusing on private brands.


But it is not just economic uncertainty or rising inflation that has led consumers to reconsider their spending habits on rental fashion. Some subscribers have expressed dissatisfaction with the limited diversity in styles and sizes offered by these rental services, according to the Wall Street Journal (WSJ).


This has prompted for rental service businesses to include diverse style offerings and increase availability, in a bid to convince customers to pay monthly fees for rented clothes.


Rent the Runway CEO Jennifer Hyman told the WJS the subscriber decline was due to inventory issues and believes improvements will drive growth in 2024. Stitch Fix, aiming for profitability, is emphasising private brands to lower inventory acquisition costs.


Furthermore, the emergence of new players in the rental subscription market, such as Nuuly and Armoire, provides consumers with alternative options. With more people working remotely, there is less emphasis on regular wardrobe updates and a decreased need for a variety of professional or formal attire.


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Chanel's executive exits echo a changing luxury market

Chanel boutique Credits: Chanel



A global slowdown in the luxury sector has promoted a series of executive departures at Chanel.


The company’s former Japanese head joins others in leaving the brand, reported Bloomberg, aligning with broader adjustments in the luxury sector due to decreased demand following pandemic-related restrictions. Estimated industry growth for the year is around 4 percent, significantly lower than the 8 percent experienced in 2023.


Recent departures include Richard Collasse, who managed Chanel's Japanese business for four decades, along with other executives like John Galantic and Olivier Nicolay. Galantic, a key player in developing Chanel's e-commerce and digital business, left in June after 16 years, while Nicolay, who oversaw UK, Canadian, and Latin American operations for over three decades, left in March, Bloomberg said. Despite Nicolay's efforts to lobby the UK government for VAT-free shopping for tourists, the initiative has not materialised.


Chanel, privately owned by billionaires Alain and Gerard Wertheimer, reported a revenue increase of 17 percent to 17.2 billion dollars in 2022. The departures signal a strategic shift within Chanel, emphasising the need for established brands to revitalize leadership teams and address changing market dynamics.


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Chanel to show Cruise 2025 collection in Marseille

Chanel HC fw23 Credits: Chanel HC fw23/Launchmetrics Spotlight



Chanel is set to make a return to showcasing in the south of France, opting for Marseille as the venue for its 2025 cruise collection on May 2nd.


After previous outings in Les Baux-de-Provence (2021) and Monte Carlo (2022), the Parisian fashion house continues its tradition of choosing picturesque locations. Marseille, a well-known seaside city, has been a favoured runway destination for other French brands like Jacquemus and Koché in the past.


While Chanel's recent cruise collection was presented at Paramount Studios in Los Angeles and the Shenzen Bay Sports Center in China, the upcoming event in Marseille is anticipated to celebrate the city's vibrant culture and energy. The decision to showcase in Marseille aligns with Chanel's strategy to connect with diverse locales and potentially engage a younger audience.


The brand's recent foray into Manchester with the Chanel Metiers d'Art pre-fall 2024, paying homage to the city's football, textile, and music culture, exemplifies this approach. The 2025 cruise show is expected to emphasize Marseille's cultural vitality, making it a fitting stop for Chanel. In a statement to WWD, the brand expressed its delight in showcasing in a culturally rich and open city like Marseille.


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How the Sustainable Terms of Trade Initiative works toward fairer purchasing practices

Interview


Handshake. Credits: Cytonn Photography / Pexels



When the going gets tough, it is often the manufacturing end of the supply chain that bears the brunt: orders get cancelled, payments delayed or delivery times ever shorter. In September 2021, the Sustainable Terms of Trade Initiative (STTI) was formed, a global, manufacturer-driven initiative focused on creating fairer purchasing practices in the textile and garment industry. 


More than two years later, many milestones have been reached and hurdles overcome. FashionUnited spoke with IAF’s secretary general Matthijs Crietee about some of the initiative’s achievements, the role of due diligence, the way forward and more.


STTI is  led by the STAR Network (Sustainable Textile of the Asian Region), the Better Buying Institute and the International Apparel Federation (IAF) and driven by 13 apparel manufacturing associations from 10 countries, among them BGMEA and BKMEA (Bangladesh), TAFTAC (Cambodia), CNTAC (China), AEPC (India), API (Indonesia), Amith (Marocco), PTA, TMA and PTEA (Pakistan) and TCMA (Turkey).


What are some of STTI’s major achievements?




According to Criettee, the publication of a white paper in September 2021 was the first key achievement: “The white paper answered the question: What purchasing practices do manufacturers need to see their clients apply and what purchasing practices do they not wish to see again?” 


“It was unique in letting the manufacturers themselves identify the priorities. It introduced the concept of ‘commercial compliance’ – a common understanding of purchasing practices that do not cause obvious and avoidable harm to manufacturers, which do not block the manufacturers’ ability to meet objectives for sustainable business – with the terminology deliberately chosen to communicate the importance of reciprocity in supply chain relations,” explains Criettee.


A major part of the white paper was also included in the “Common Framework for Responsible Purchasing Practices”, a framework created by a group of multi-stakeholder initiatives, including the Fair Wear Foundation, the Ethical Trade Initiative (ETI) and the German Partnership for Sustainable Textiles. This was a second major achievement, which included an Memorandum of Understanding being drawn up between STTI and the Fair Wear Foundation and STTI and ETI. 


The joint STTI and Common Framework also provided major input in the Sustainable Apparel Coalition’s Brand Retail Module (BRM) and served as a basis for the Supplier Model Contract Clauses of the Responsible Contracting Project (RCP). Regular appearances at numerous international conferences, including the annual OECD’s Forum on Due Diligence in the garment and footwear sector, should also be mentioned. 


A collaboration with the Better Buying system made sure to incorporate questions pertaining to “commercial compliance” in supplier surveys. STTI also assists manufacturers in engaging with the Learning and Implementation Community, together with the Common Framework, to collaborate with brands on improving purchasing practices. Last but not least, STTI served as a catalyst and example for more involvement of suppliers in the design and execution of global sustainability initiatives. 


IAF and STTI emphasise that purchasing practices are fundamental to effective due diligence. How is STTI supporting European corporate sustainability due diligence legislation?




“Purchasing practices are clearly included in the OECD’s “Due diligence guidance for the apparel and footwear sector” and STTI emphasises this point in its contacts with legislators and with the media,” says Criettee. 


“STTI also communicates with the participating manufacturers and their associations that, when correctly implemented, the European corporate sustainability due diligence legislation is very good for them, particularly because of the inclusion of the need for improved purchasing practices. The more manufacturers realise that this legislation is potentially a big improvement on the current audit- and risk-shifting-based sustainability approach, the more they will be able to pressure and support their clients into a correct adherence to the new legislation. So STTI will be focussing on knowledge transfer to its own constituents to support correct implementation of the legislation that ultimately supports an improvement of purchasing practices,” adds Criettee. 


STTI’s objective is to deliver a major contribution towards purchasing practices that allow textile and garment manufacturers to run a socially, economically and environmentally sustainable operation. Credits: STTI



Whenever a crisis like the recent Covid pandemic, inflation and natural calamities like earthquakes hit - buyers try to lower prices or back out of orders - how can STTI help in these cases?




“We all operate realising that we are dealing with systemic problems. The way the fashion industry is organised as dictated by the predominant business models, there is continuous and harsh price pressure. In this context, changes to purchasing practices will not suddenly materialise; it requires a combination of a change of business models and legislative pressure. STTI works on both,” explains Criettee. 


“Currently and in the current years, we will be working with partners to develop an institutional infrastructure that will allow legislators and others to assess buyer’s purchasing practices and their efforts (their due diligence) to make improvements to their purchasing practices. We will work with our partners trying to influence the implementation of European due diligence legislation in such a way that it truly leads to improved purchasing practices,” he adds. 


STTI partner IAF will also publish a paper together with the International Trade Centre (ITC) in the first quarter of 2024 on alternative sourcing models based on “Shared Risk”.  "This will be able to create more revenue for all supply chain partners so that profit margins per product and a better economic rationale is created for risks and rewards to be more evenly and fairly distributed across the supply chain."


The minimum wage in Bangladesh remains one of the lowest worldwide, even after the recent increase by the wage board. What can an organisation like STTI do to support fair wages and living wages?




Criettee points out that STTI is about purchasing practices and about collaboration between manufacturers and their associations worldwide. “It is not set up to directly address the issue of wages. However, undeniably, wages are connected to purchasing practices. It is the same with the relation between environmental sustainability and purchasing practices. As we say here: “you can’t act green when you are in the red”. So, in the vision of STTI, the improvement of purchasing practices will create the necessary room for the improvement of social and environmental conditions in the apparel and textile industry,” states Criettee.


What are some of the future events or milestones that are currently in the pipeline?




As some of the activities carried out directly by STTI or by some of its partners in collaboration with STTI, Criettee mentions the co-publication of a study on “full supply chain profitability”, pilots on the implementation of the RCP’s Supplier Contract Clauses and training for manufacturers, buyers and combinations of both on them manufacturer training on corporate sustainability due diligence. 


Other important areas are the continuing work on the building of grievance mechanisms on purchasing practices for manufacturers and the ongoing participation of manufacturers in the Learning and Implementation Community as well as work on the creation of an assessment framework for purchasing practices. 


A round table session on purchasing practices and (due diligence) legislation will be held at the OECD’s Forum on due diligence in the garment and footwear sector in Paris at the OECD conference centre on 23rd February.  


Also read:




* TIWW seminar on purchasing practices: communication is key

* European Parliament approves draft law to improve environmental, social practices of supply chains






This interview was conducted in written format.


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