Patagonia founder to receive Outstanding Achievement Award at 2022 Fashion Awards

Patagonia-owner Yvon Chouinard. Photo: Campbell Brewer Patagonia’s founder and former owner Yvon Chouinard has been announced as an honouree for the 2022 Fashion Awards, where he will receive the Outstanding Achievement Award. During the event, set to be held December 5, Chouinard will be recognised for his creative contributions to the fashion industry. He joins a string of prominent industry leaders who have previously won the award, including the likes of Miuccia Prada, Ralph Lauren and Giorgio Armani. In a release, the British Fashion Council (BFC) said Chouinard was selected for his dedication to environmentalism and his “exceptional vision”. It comes months after the entrepreneur announced he would transfer his family’s ownership of Patagonia to two new entities: the Patagonia Purpose Trust and non-profit organisation the Holdfast Collective, in a bid to channel profits to environmental causes. Chouinard is also the co-founder of One Percent for the Planet, a global movement that counts over 5,000 members, each of which donates one perfect of their income to initiatives protecting the environment. Speaking on the news, Chouinard said: “Being recognised by the BFC sends the message that responsible business practices far outweigh trends or short-term financial gains. “With vision and creativity, the apparel industry is perfectly placed to set the standard for environmental protection – it is our hope that business leaders join us in committing to this work.” Activism is set to run through almost the entirety of this year’s Fashion Awards, with BFC also announcing that British and Jamaican activist and actress Jodie Turner-Smith will be the host of the event. Turner-Smith, who is known for her roles in Anne Boleyn and After Yang, regularly uses her platform to spotlight equality in the industry, as well as the importance of sustainability.
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Babor launches skincare coaching feature with Revieve

Babor Skin Coach powered by Revieve. Image: Revieve German skincare brand Babor has launched a personalised skin coaching experience to support customers after they have made a purchase. Developed in partnership with beauty and wellness tech platform Revieve, ‘Babor Skin Coach’ builds on the brand’s efforts to enhance customer loyalty and commitment by encouraging customers to set skin goals and track changes in their skin following a purchase. After receiving a recommended skincare routine, the feature allows users to create a profile where they can set goals, personalise their progress tracking and access routine and guidance information. Through uploaded monthly selfies, consumers can visually track their progress, while the platform’s guidance will help to trace changes in the skin and continuously recommend products designed to achieve their goals. Babor will pilot the first version of Skin Coach starting December in Germany and all of the brand’s European e-commerce stores, covering Austria, Belgium, Switzerland and the Netherlands. Over time, the company will add more functions and will eventually roll out the feature out into the US. In a release, Sampo Parkkinen, CEO of Revieve, said: "We are delighted to see Babor strengthen its position as customers' first choice in the field of expert skin care by becoming the first brand in Europe that enables Revieve's Skin Coach to drive sustainable customer retention and build a more long-lasting relationship with their customers.” The launch follows the unveiling of Babor’s Digital Skin Advisor, an experience that provides customers with a skin analysis and personalised skincare routine, also powered by Revieve.
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Asos loosens performance targets for exec bonus scheme

Image: Asos Fast fashion e-tailer Asos has altered the criteria for its annual executive bonus scheme to reflect its sharp decline in finances. In a notice on its website, the retailer said the changes were “appropriate” in order to “better align with business priorities”. According to the Financial Times, the new scheme will be applicable to Asos’ new CEO José Antonio Ramos Calamonte, who joined the company in June. It will also affect the next appointed CFO. The publication said the scheme can pay out a maximum of 150 percent of the base salary depending on performance targets in a single financial year. The weighting for revenue in the current year has been cut from the 30 percent, initially stated in its annual report, to 15 percent, while its pre-tax profit has been adjusted from 30 to 25 percent. The move comes as Calamonte looks to cut costs across the company through the adoption of a new, more flexible commercial model. Asos posted a reported loss of 31.9 million pounds on sales, just a one percent increase to 3.94 billion pounds in the year to August 31, 2022. The retailer recently confirmed plans to cut its workforce in a decision it said would affect all parts of the company. It also announced a 100 million pound stock-write off, while also agreeing to a 650 million pound credit facility.
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PVH swings to Q3 loss, but revenue beats estimates

Image: Tommy Hilfiger Tommy Hilfiger owner PVH Corp fell into the red in the third quarter despite stronger-than-expected revenue. The US fashion giant made a net loss of 186.7 million dollars in the period compared to a profit of 279.7 million dollars a year earlier. Revenue of 2.281 billion dollars was 2 percent below the previous year, but 7 percent higher on a constant currency basis. “We are pleased with our third quarter results as we delivered high single-digit constant currency top-line growth,” PVH chief executive Stefan Larsson told investors. “This was ahead of our expectations, despite having to navigate continuing macroeconomic headwinds,” he said. Breaking it down by brand, revenue at Tommy Hilfiger dropped 4 percent, but was up 7 percent on a constant currency basis, while revenue at Calvin Klein was up 1 percent, or up 9 percent at constant currency rates. International business shines “Our international businesses continued to execute well across both brands, even as macro conditions remain challenging in Europe and Covid impacts continued in Asia,” Larsson said. Meanwhile in North America, he said the company is “encouraged by the positive performance indicators we are seeing” although “we recognize that we are in the early stages of a multi-year journey to unlock this region’s full opportunity”. Based on its third-quarter results, PVH expects revenue to be at the top end of its previous guidance range, so it expects to report a drop of around 3 percent, or an increase of 4 percent on a constant currency basis. However, it now expects full-year earnings per share on a GAAP basis of approximately 1.37 dollars, down from its previous estimate of around 7.64 dollars.
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Saul Nash ties fashion, cars and gaming together for new collaboration

Image: Mercedes-Benz; Photography by Justin French, set design by Isabel + Helen and movement direction by Saul Nash In Pictures British fashion designer Saul Nash, who won The Queen Elizabeth II Award earlier this year, has unveiled a limited-edition capsule collection with Mercedes-Benz and SK Gaming. The collaboration, celebrating the 25th anniversary of Mercedes-Benz eSports partner SK Gaming, features two limited-edition pieces designed by Nash, a jacket and a long-sleeved compression T-shirt that combines “the functional demands of everyday sportswear with fashionable style”. The reversible jacket and shirt are designed mostly in black to reflect Mercedes-Benz’s sleek aesthetic, along with feature accents of SK Gaming’s lilac-blue colour scheme. Both are made of recycled polyester, with the compression shirt including lycra for an ideal body-hugging fit, as well as thumb loops, a half-zip on the high-closing collar and an extended back to emphasise “the sporty functionality of the collection”. Image: Mercedes-Benz; Photography by Justin French, set design by Isabel + Helen and movement direction by Saul Nash Saul Nash collaborates with Mercedes-Benz and SK Gaming Commenting on the capsule collection, Nash said in a statement: “This project was an exciting space to explore three worlds that at first instance may not fit together. But the beauty of gaming is that anything is possible as there are infinite possibilities. “It was inspiring to create garments through the lens of Esports, marrying this with the sleek design and exquisite heritage of Mercedes-Benz, whilst envisioning this in the world of movement that I’m grounded in. With performance wear grounded so much in movement, the question was how we could bring gaming which is often a static sport to life through movement.” Image: Mercedes-Benz; Photography by Justin French, set design by Isabel + Helen and movement direction by Saul Nash Julia Hofmann, head of brand collaborations and branded entertainment at Mercedes-Benz AG, added: "Our heartfelt congratulations go to our partner SK Gaming on the 25th anniversary. Every collaboration gains from new impulses, and we are all the more pleased that together with Saul Nash, we have succeeded in creating a new connection between the worlds of fashion and Esports. “With this exclusive collection, we want to appeal not only to Esports enthusiasts, but also to our customers and fans who value an active lifestyle that is functional in everyday life while exuding a modern look." The Saul Nash capsule will be available for pre-order on November 30 via SK Gaming’s website, with prices ranging from 89 to 150 euros. Customers will receive their items in 2023. Image: Mercedes-Benz; Photography by Justin French, set design by Isabel + Helen and movement direction by Saul Nash Image: Mercedes-Benz; Photography by Justin French, set design by Isabel + Helen and movement direction by Saul Nash Image: Mercedes-Benz; Photography by Justin French, set design by Isabel + Helen and movement direction by Saul Nash
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M&S acquires Thread to accelerate its personalisation plans

Image: M&S/Thread British retailer Marks & Spencer has acquired the intellectual property, including the source code and algorithms developed by personalised fashion marketplace Thread to accelerate its personalisation capabilities. In a statement, M&S said that the acquisition will allow it to integrate “cutting-edge proprietary tech” into the M&S website as it looks to accelerate personalisation and deliver a unique customer experience. The personalisation capabilities will stretch across all clothing products available on M&S.com, including the retailer's third-party brand partners. The move comes as M&S states it has generated substantial value through its customer data, personalising offers and product recommendations in recent years, and it is expected that 20-25 percent of all digital interactions will be personalised this year. Outfit recommendations have proved to be valuable for the retailer and it estimates that the ‘frequently bought together’ recommendations are worth an incremental 20 million pounds in revenue over the last 12 months. A figure it expects will increase to more than 100 million pounds of annualised incremental revenue for the business in the coming years. Thread founders join M&S as the retailer acquires the marketplace’s intellectual property Katie Bickerstaffe, co-chief executive at Marks & Spencer, said: “The acquisition of Thread is the perfect example of a ‘buy not build’ approach – enabling us to accelerate our personalisation strategy by integrating the market-leading tech on M&S.com in under 12 months. We’re taking personalisation to the next level to inspire our customers with tailored outfit inspiration. “We have been working hard to deliver better, more stylish ranges and this algorithm will also put more of our great product in front of the customer, whilst further unlocking the potential of our third-party brand strategy, by adding outfit completing product ideas. We already know the incremental value personalisation can bring and we anticipate that personalisation will generate more than 100 million pounds of annualised incremental revenue for the business.” Following the administration of Thread, M&S added that it is hiring 30 of its former data scientists, software engineers and styling and creative teams who will lead the integration and form a new personalised discovery team, within its data and digital function. This includes Kieran O’Neil and Ben Phillips, who founded Thread in 2012. O'Neil, who will join M&S as senior head of product, added: “We have worked for the past 10 years on building the most advanced AI personalisation for online fashion, proven to increase customer conversion and repeat orders. We’re so excited to join forces with M&S; through their infrastructure and support, we’re able to take our market leading technology to the next level, providing a personalised and unique shopping experience for their 30 million customers.”
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Foot Locker CFO to step down in executive team shake-up

Image: Foot Locker Inc. Foot Locker has announced a number of changes to its top team, including the departure of its chief financial officer and the appointment of a new chief operating officer. The New York-based specialty athletic retailer announced Thursday that Andrew Page will step down as CFO following the company's Q4 earnings report. A search for a successor is underway. The company has appointed Elliott Rodgers as new executive vice president and COO. Rodgers currently sits on the board of denim giant Levi’s, and previously spent eight years at Ulta Beauty, most recently serving as chief information officer. Next, Foot Locker veteran Frank Bracken has been appointed as new executive vice president and chief commercial officer. He will also continue to lead the company’s global retail banners, merchandising, and marketing, as well as digital, loyalty, and e-commerce. Additionally, Rosalind Reeves, who is currently Foot Locker’s vice president of talent, diversity, and organization capability, has been promoted to executive vice president and chief human resources officer. And finally, Robert Higginbotham, vice president of investor relations, has been promoted to senior vice president of investor relations and financial planning and analysis. Structural changes Commenting on the shake up, Foot Locker CEO Mary N. Dillon said: “Separating our commercial activities from our supply chain and IT functions will better position Foot Locker to support growth and enhance operating efficiency as we invest in unleashing the power of our leading retail banners by simplifying our operations and expanding our omnichannel, loyalty, and digital capabilities.” The executive changes come after last week Foot Locker upped its full-year outlook after reporting a smaller than expected drop in sales and profit in the third quarter. The retailer made sales of 2.2 billion dollars in the three months to October 29, down 0.7 percent on a reported basis, but up 3.3 percent on a constant currency basis. Its net income came in at 96 million dollars, down from 158 million dollars. The company now expects full-year sales to drop by between 4 percent and 5 percent year-on-year, compared to its previous guidance of between 6 percent and 7 percent.
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Mulberry swings to H1 loss as UK shoppers rein in spending

Image: Mulberry British luxury brand Mulberry has reported a loss in the first half of the year as its UK retail sales were hit by the cost of living crisis. The Somerset-based handbag specialist posted a pre-tax loss of 3.8 million pounds in the six months to October 1, compared to a profit of 10.2 million pounds a year earlier. It came as consumers tightened their purse strings amid economic uncertainty, with retail sales in its home market of the UK dropping 10 percent in the period, while international sales were broadly flat at 17.5 million pounds. On a brighter note, retail sales in China, which has been hit hard in recent years by lockdowns, increased 6 percent despite ongoing restrictions, which contributed to a 1 percent increase in Asia Pacific retail sales. “We have delivered a resilient performance across the group, supported by strong international demand and continued investment in the UK,” chief executive Thierry Andretta said in a statement. Current trading improving Mulberry said there has been an improved trend in retail revenue for the eight weeks to November 26 compared to the prior-year period, but added “there remains ongoing uncertainty in the economic and geopolitical environment”. The company said it expects gross margin in the second half to be maintained at first half levels. Andretta continued: “Looking ahead, we are confident in our ability to execute our strategy and to continue to invest across the group for our future growth, in spite of the challenging economic and geopolitical backdrop. “We are well placed for the festive trading period and will continue to drive the business forward to the benefit of all stakeholders.”
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H&M to cut 1,500 jobs amid cost savings programme

Image: H&M Store/ Courtesy of Joni Israeli Swedish fashion giant H&M is to cut 1,500 jobs as part of a previously announced plan to reduce costs and improve efficiency across the business. The cost-cutting programme, which will also see the retailer cut other administrative and overhead costs, is expected to result in a restructuring charge of just over 800 million Swedish krona (63 million pounds) in the fourth quarter. But it is expected to save the business some 2 billion Swedish krona annually from the third quarter onwards. Cost-cutting push “The cost and efficiency programme that we have initiated involves reviewing our organisation and we are very mindful of the fact that colleagues will be affected by this,” H&M Group CEO Helena Helmersson said in a statement. “We will support our colleagues in finding the best possible solution for their next step,” she added. The news follows a report earlier this month by The Mail on Sunday that H&M has quietly closed one in five of its UK stores in recent years to cut costs. H&M announced the launch of a savings programme in September as its profits were hit hard by its exit from Russia following the country’s invasion of Ukraine, and amid rising costs. Its net profit in the third quarter slumped to 531 million Swedish krona from 4.69 billion Swedish krona a year earlier. Its net sales in the period increased 3 percent to 57.45 billion Swedish krona, but were down 4 percent in local currencies.
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PETA claims ducks are ‘mutilated’ under Responsible Down Standard

Vietnamese duck farmer. Image: Unsplash The People for Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) said it carried out an investigation into Vietnamese down supplier Vina Prauden where it had found evidence of “violent” animal abuse. Workers for the supplier, which PETA said provided the material for Gap, H&M, Uniqlo and Lacoste, among other brands, were documented to be violently grabbing ducks before electrocuting them and slitting their throats while they were still conscious. According to PETA Asia investigators, the slaughterhouse owner confirmed her employees never check for signs of consciousness before killing the ducks. The organisation further looked into facilities for Nam Vu, a supplier at Guess, where workers were seen chopping the feet off live ducks. It alleged that much of the down from these facilities was later sold under the ‘Responsible Down Standard’, which it claimed did “nothing to stop suppliers from harming animals”. In a release, PETA’s executive vice president, Tracy Reiman, said: “Shoppers at H&M, Gap, Guess, and other big-name stores should assume that down in their products came from tortured birds “PETA Asia has exposed the Responsible Down Standard as a sham that doesn’t protect animals, and we encourage everyone to shun all down in favour of warm and cosy vegan clothing that leaves animals in peace.” Speaking to WWD, a spokesperson for H&M responded to the allegations stating that the company did not have a direct connection to the supplier in question. It added: “Animal welfare is very important to us and no animals should be harmed in the production of our products. “We have a clear ambition level on how we want to improve animal welfare in our supply chain and the textile industry. We also work actively to strengthen the way we source animal deriving materials so that we can ensure the welfare of animals.” FashionUnited has contacted Textile Exchange, the organisation which operates the Responsible Down Standard, for comment.
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Designer Christopher Raeburn to host sustainable Christmas workshops in London

Christopher Raeburn at The Lab E20. Image: Get Living As part of Stratford’s upcoming Christmas celebrations, the area is set to host an array of special events, a market and workshops over the festive period. From December 1, beginning with its annual Light Switch On, ‘Christmas at East Village’ will see a schedule of predominantly sustainably-centred occasions take place. The area’s highlights include Christmas decoration and bag making classes with designer and Timberland’s collaborator at large, Christopher Raeburn, in East Village’s creative hub, The Lab E20. The community-led flagship, which was designed by Raeburn himself, is centred around positive fashion, climate action and the circular economy, a press release read. Each event at the location will provide a charity contribution to Intoart, an organisation supporting artists with learning disabilities. Visitors will be able to join Raeburn, the designer’s fashion studio, and The Lab E20 for further festive drinks, masterclasses, fashion-focused panels and upcycling events. Raeburn Design, alongside Pines and Needles, was also behind the selection of “responsibly” curated decorations for East Village’s central Christmas tree. Other events to take place in the area include a Santa Paws Pet Parade, market stalls by Urban Foot Fest, a series of live music performances.
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Better Cotton director joins International Cotton Association board

Cotton. Image: Trisha Downing via Unsplash Alia Malik, Better Cotton’s senior director, data and traceability, has been announced as a new board member for the International Cotton Association (ICA). The UK-based cotton trade association now boasts 24 board members, which it said were going to continue to represent its global membership “across all sectors of the supply chain” and build on its commitment to engage the entire global cotton community. Speaking on her appointment, Malik said in a statement: ”I am delighted to join the board of one of the oldest organisations in the sector. “Trade is crucial to driving demand for more sustainable cotton, and I am looking forward to contributing to ICA’s work.” Alongside Malik, the ICA also announced the appointment of Yahya Saleem, Jagan Gopinath and Ismail Nohutlu to its board, each of which will represent their respective countries. The organisation further stated that Tim North, an Ecom exec and former board member of Cotton Council International, will be taking on the role of president. Set up in 1841, the ICA follows a mission to protect the interests of those that trade cotton. The organisation currently has over 550 international members that represent all aspects of the supply chain sectors.
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Greenpeace study: Dangerous chemicals in Shein clothing violate EU regulations

A boot checked in the laboratory. Image: Kay Michalak / Greenpeace Tough times for Chinese ultra fast fashion giant Shein - first it was plagued by accusations of plagiarism and then a British documentary found that workers in some Shein factories in China are paid the equivalent of only three cents per garment and have to work 18-hour shifts. Now it's about the clothes themselves - Greenpeace Germany tested some of them and found that there are often dangerous chemicals in the clothes sold by Shein. To prove this, Greenpeace Germany bought 47 garments from the Shein plattform, which were examined in an independent laboratory for pollutant analysis. It found phthalate levels of over 100,000 milligrams per kilogram in five boots and shoes respectively; the European Chemicals Regulation (REACH) limit is 1,000 milligrams per kilogram. The highest phthalate value was measured in black snow boots and, at 685,000 milligrams per kilogram, is even 685 times the legal limit. One third of the tested articles is problematic Overall, the product tests found hazardous chemicals exceeding REACH limits in 7 of the items tested, which is 15 percent; hazardous chemicals were found “at levels of concern" in a total of 32 percent or 15 products. Shein claims to have since removed these products and launched an investigation (see statement below). Shein products with the highest percentage of harmful chemicals. Image: Greenpeace Since Shein sells directly online via its app and social media, many transactions bypass the authorities. Greenpeace is therefore calling for better controls and more far-reaching guidelines: “The EU must enforce its laws to protect the environment and consumers for online retailers as well and tighten REACH significantly,” demands Viola Wohlgemuth, resource protection expert at Greenpeace, in a press release. “Chemicals that are potentially carcinogenic when worn in Germany or elsewhere are even more so dangerous for the workers in Shein's factories in China. Dangerous chemicals must be banned by law from all textile production,” adds Wohlgemuth. Problem ultra fast fashion The problem goes back to the ultra fast fashion model that Shein operates on: Every day, the online retailer offers up to 6,000 new designs online. In comparison: competitor H&M only managed about 1.4 per cent of the volume in the USA in a comparable period of four months and Shein produces about three times as fast as fast fashion pioneer Zara - namely within three to seven days. “This new ultra fast fashion business model takes overconsumption and waste of resources to the extreme. This creates a huge amount of environmentally damaging textile waste in the Global South, in addition to environmental damage in the producing countries,” says Greenpeace. “Fast fashion is already completely incompatible with a climate-friendly future; the new trend of ultra fast fashion is fuelling climate crisis and nature destruction so aggressively that it must be stopped immediately by legislation,” concludes Wohlgemuth. Shein responds When asked by FashionUnited about the allegations, Shein responded with a (rather general) statement: “Shein takes product safety very seriously. Our suppliers are required to comply with the controls and standards we have put in place, including chemical controls lists and standards which are aligned to Europe’s REACH, as well as CPSIA, CPSA and CA65 from the US, amongst other regulations.”   “We work closely with international third-party testing agencies such as Intertek, SGS, BV and TUV, to regularly carry out testing to ensure suppliers' compliance to our product safety standards. In the past year, we have conducted more than 300,000 chemical safety tests with these agencies,” adds Shein.   “Upon learning of any claim against our products, we immediately remove the product(s) from our site as a matter of caution whilst conducting our investigations. If non-compliance is verified, we will not hesitate to take appropriate follow-up action with the supplier of said product. We can also confirm, based on the information available through the social media account of Greenpeace, that we have immediately removed the products mentioned pending investigation. Shein is dedicated to always providing consumers with safe and reliable products,” ends the statement.
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LVMH acquires Italian jewellery manufacturer Pedemonte

LVMH Group has announced the acquisition of the Pedemonte Group, a jewelry producer present in Italy and France, from the Equinox III SLP SIF investment fund. The company said in a release that the strategic operation for the watches & jewelry division and its jewellery maisons will allow the group to significantly increase its production capacity, while the existing workshops are mobilising all their resources to support the strong growth of the division. “With this strategic acquisition for our maisons, the LVMH Group further strengthens its presence in Italy while continuing to support the ecosystem of companies that contribute to the success of our maisons,” said Toni Belloni, deputy managing sirector of the LVMH Group. “With Pedemonte, our maisons will gain a partner recognized for its know-how to support their growth and maintain their leadership in jewellery,” Belloni added. Created in 2020 from the merger of several independent production workshops, each with several decades of existence and experience, the Pedemonte Group is a recognized player in jewellery manufacturing. With locations in the cities of Valenza and Valmadonna (Alessandria) in northern Italy, as well as in Paris, the Pedemonte Group combines cutting-edge technology with artisanal craftsmanship. Commenting on the development, Gian Andrea Garrone, chairman and CEO of Pedemonte Group said: “This operation will allow us to maintain our ambitions in terms of development, training and strengthening of our human resources, the heart of our activities. We will also pursue an ambitious investment policy to meet new challenges, particularly in technology.” LVMH added that the company currently employs 350 artisans and employees who will continue to provide, alongside the current management, their expertise, their skills and their know-how, sometimes passed from one generation to the next, to support the production of jewellery pieces for all of its customers. “We are very pleased to welcome the teams from the Pedemonte Group and its subsidiaries with whom we have been working for many years. Today our stories and our values come together around this spirit of excellence and enterprise, the perpetuation of craftsmanship and the development of creativity,” said Stéphane Bianchi, chairman and CEO of the group’s watches & jewelry division.
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