The Perfume Shop sold record 1.8m bottles over Christmas

Image: The Perfume Shop Shopper penchant for olfactory gifting saw The Perfume Shop sell its highest ever number of fragrances this Christmas. The perfume giant said sales of its products soared despite Royal Mail strikes and disruptive weather, with 1.8 million bottles sold between 28 November and 24 December. Sales of gift sets were up 26 percent in the week before Christmas. Bestselling fragrances include Dior Sauvage, Coco Mademoiselle by Chanel and Thierry Mugler’s Alien perfumes. The Perfume Shop is operated by the A.S. Watson Group (ASW) which is owned by the Hong Kong-based CK Hutchison Holding group. ASW is the world’s largest international health and beauty retailer, with a network of approximately 16,300 offline and online retail stores in 28 markets worldwide. The Perfume Shop was founded in 1992 and is the UK’s largest fragrance retailer, operating 215 stores. According to The Times, the retailer’s e-commerce site recorded its busiest day on Sunday, December 11, with online orders up 39 percent compared to last Christmas.
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Dame Vivienne Westwood, Queen of Punk and climate activist, has died age 81

Image: Letters to the Earth, Vivienne Westwood Credit: Tania Hoser Dame Vivienne Westwood, the doyenne of British fashion, pioneer of the punk movement and ardent climate activist, has died aged 81. With a career spanning five decades, Westwood changed fashion forever when she introduced punk in the 1970s and along with partner Malcolm McLaren, who managed the Sex Pistols, opened a store on the Kings Road in London’s Chelsea. From the shredded t-shirts to the bondage and fetishism – studs, leather and zips - there was a cultural wave that was transforming England, and Westwood’s unapologetic designs of the time defined an era that continues to reverberate around the world. In the 1990s it was Anglomania that continued Westwood’s reign. Taking inspiration from the art of the classical, mediaeval and renaissance periods, she designed a Scottish tartan that became synonymous with the brand, spawning into its own diffusion range in the late 90s. In 1997 Westwood opened her London store on Conduit Street, a thoroughfare between Soho and Mayfair, followed by a store in New York in 1999. A new silhouette Westwood broke the mould of generic fashion, creating the brand's recognisable hourglass figure with padded bust and bustle constructed out of a lightweight metal cage. Paired with towering platforms, the image of Naomi Campbell tripping on the catwalk has forever been sealed in the archives of catwalk shows. Other signatures are Westwood’s use of asymmetry, bias cuts and decorative fabrics, where she continued to explore British tailoring and historical dress, but reconstructed clothes in novel ways. As one of the UK’s last independent brands, Ms Westwood used her voice to educate the industry on climate change and sustainability. She was as notorious for her Kings Road Sex shop as she was for her activism and ecological crusading. For the past 20 years Vivienne has supported hundreds of causes, NGOs, grassroot charities and campaigns including Amnesty International, War Child and Liberty, as well as launching her own campaigning movement Climate Revolution. She is also an ambassador for Greenpeace. In 2013 Vivienne designed their official ‘Save the Arctic’ logo and in 2015 she launched a global campaign to stop drilling and industrial fishing in the area. Westwood’s partner Andreas Kronthaler was instrumental to the fashion house in later years, with his name appearing on garments and official notes. “Over the years Andreas has taken on ever more responsibility and I wish this fact to be reflected in public perception,” Vivienne Westwood stated. “We chose to separate our lines in order to clarify and reduce them. Gold Label became Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood, while Vivienne designs Vivienne Westwood Mainline, which includes Unisex – a way to reduce buying,” Kronthaler said. The brand took a hiatus from physical shows during the pandemic, but last year opened stores in Beijing and Shanghai. For her last collection, AW2022/23, Quality not quantity, Westwood turned to The Year of the Tiger, to symbolise strength, courage and exorcising evil. “I just use fashion as an excuse to talk about politics. Because I'm a fashion designer, it gives me a voice, which is really good,”
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Asos could face investor rebellion over executive pay

Image: Asos x Nordstrom, New York Asos, which has experienced a challenging year tainted by falling consumer confidence and supply chain disruptions, could be about to face a conflict with shareholders over executive pay. Shareholder advisory service Pirc has recommended investors reject or abstain on more than a third of the 15 motions at the retailer’s upcoming shareholder meeting on January 11, according to a report seen by This is Money. One concern is that Mat Dunn, the company’s CFO who stepped in as CEO on an interim basis following the departure of Nick Beighton in 2021, is set to receive a salary of 567,000 pounds despite the company’s woes. Pirc also described current CEO Jose Ramos’ total potential payout of up to 4.2 million pounds as “excessive”, and recommended shareholders abstain on the re-election of chair Jorgen Lindemann. However, another shareholder adviser, ISS, recommended investors back the retailer’s pay policy, but still added it “raises concerns”. An Asos spokesman told This is Money that pay policies encourage strong performance from the leadership team. Asos has faced a difficult year as falling consumer confidence and supply chain disruptions have hit its top- and bottom lines. In the year to August 31, the company swung to a pre-tax loss of 31.9 million pounds from a profit of 177.1 million pounds a year earlier. A November report by Retail Week claimed Asos was planning to cut over 100 jobs as part of a restructuring plan.
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Seidensticker invests in capacity planning

Men’s shirts and women’s blouse by Seidensticker. Image: Seidensticker Producing clothes and getting quantities right is a tricky business that has been taking its toll on the environment for decades. Overproduction and full warehouses are common problems that the industry has to deal with, be it on manufacturer, brand or retailer side. Many of them thus downsize order quantities to avoid these issue but may then get below minimum order quantities. German Seidensticker (Overseas) Ltd. is investing in technology to tackle this problem: The vertically-integrated manufacturer of men’s shirts and women’s blouses has teamed up with software provider Coats Digital to allow for smaller, more complex order requests and to reduce the time and cost challenges when meeting customers’ last-minute change requirements. Meeting customer demand changes “Companies that invest wisely in the right digital technologies to plan effectively, optimise operational efficiencies and respond quickly to demand changes will be in a much stronger position to weather the storm, and we very much look forward to supporting Seidensticker’s robust digitisation programme to ensure it consistently retains an ‘ahead-of-the-game’ competitive advantage,” commented Wesley Ekman, senior global sales director at Coats Digital, in a statement. The family-run business found that without good visibility to key planning and workflow data, capacity management and line planning teams did not have the accurate data they needed to seamlessly manage higher quantities of smaller orders that often required style variations that increased complexity. Seidensticker also found it challenging to manage  late customer changes to orders since business-critical data was siloed in multiple sources, which meant teams could not work together from a single source of data, to respond to late order change requests quickly and effectively. Tackling faster, shorter and more complex orders “With higher basic cost-to-make outgoings and raw material costs industry-wide, as well as increasing requests for faster, shorter and more complex orders, we needed a solution that would provide total visibility to global capacity planning and workflow processes so we could make business-critical decisions quickly and ensure early discovery of potential delivery challenges to enable us to action these fast and effectively,” explained Peter Tornow, managing director of Seidensticker (Overseas) Ltd. Seidensticker has adopted Coats Digital’s FastReactPlan to provide full visibility of its capacity planning and critical path, which involves supporting four own factories with a 2,300-strong workforce in Vietnam, Indonesia and Bangladesh, which produce 420,000 Seidensticker-branded garments a month. In addition, there are five partner factories that provide garments for other brands, producing between 550,000 and 800,000 pieces a month. The company generates an annual turnover of 145 million US dollars and is headquartered in Bielefeld, Germany and has its Asian headquarters in Hong Kong. “We expect the implementation of FastReactPlan to significantly improve production efficiencies, increase on-time delivery performance and reduce workloads, as well as reduce last-minute firefighting for our planning teams across the whole business”, added Tornow.
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Leading fashion brands earn over 245 million dollars in NFTs sales

Image: Nike x RTFKT Cryptokicks Many are the brands that are foraging the Metaverse seeking for new revenue streams. Companies like Nike, Adidas or Tiffany’s have already cracked the code of non-fungible tokens (NFTs) sales, earning more than 245 million dollars collectively. Whilst partnerships with online gaming, investments in property in the Web 3.0., and pushing the runway into the realm of augmented reality are the most common initial outings into the Metaverse, some of the leading players in the fashion industry have turned to NFTs in order to increase their revenue. It’s the case of Nike, Tiffany’s, Gucci, Dolce & Gabana, Adidas, and Lacoste, amongst others. A recent NFT Brand Case Study authored by @kingjames23 on blockchain analytics platform Dune, reviews the performance measured by number of transactions and revenue of about a dozen of large brand' NFT projects on Ethereum Blockchain. Seven out of those large brands NFT projects belong to the fashion industry. This analysis looks at NFTs sales volume, royalties’ value, and total NFT sales dollar amount. Nike’s 185 million dollars in NFTs sales Nike holds the crown of early adopters of all things Metaverse. In December last year, Nike Inc. announced the acquisition of RTFKT, a leading brand that leverages cutting edge innovation to deliver next generation collectibles that merge culture and gaming. Nike’s included the buyout of RTFKT’s CloneX NFT avatar collection, which launched a month before the acquisition was made public. As explained back then by John Donahoe, president and CEO of the sportswear company, “This acquisition is another step that accelerates Nike’s digital transformation and allows us to serve athletes and creators at the intersection of sport, creativity, gaming and culture.” Nike and RTFKT did their first NFT drop in February and since April this year, RTFKT’s has been bringing virtual, officially licensed Nike sneakers into the NFT market: the CryptoKicks NFT collection. These 20,000 pairs of virtual sneakers sell for everything between 1,300 dollars and 130,000 dollars, with some designed by artist Takashi Murakami topping the most coveted ones. Nike NFT-generated revenue includes CloneX sales and royalties pre-acquisition of RTFKT. Per Dune’s data, the sports apparel company has seen over 70,000 transactions until October, earning 91.2 million dollars in royalties and bringing in another 93.1 million dollars in revenue. In total, Nike’s NFTs sales to date have generated over 184.31 million dollars. Dolce & Gabbana millionaire NFT auctions Image: Collezione Genesi, NFT collection designed by Dolce&Gabbana for UNXD. Since their first NFT project a year ago, Dolce & Gabbana has earned 23.68 million dollars through NFT sales. It’s worth recalling that in October 2021, Dolce & Gabbana closed nine NFT auctions, bringing in a total of 1,885 ETH (valued at circa 5.7 million dollars at the time.) The auctioned items were unique 1/1 pieces forming the ‘Collezione Genesi’ collection. The collectors who bought each of them received the corresponding custom-fitted physical garment within a one to two-year claim period. The leading piece was the Glass Suit, a suit personally designed by D&G founders. Made of silk organza, it features 78 embroidered glassworks, each of them completely distinct in design, size, shape, and color. As the Italian luxury brand announced on Twitter, the Glass Suit sold for 351.384 ETH, or 1 million dollars. Tiffany’s nod to CryptoPunk’s holders Earlier this year, Tiffany’s made it to the news when unveiled a partnership with blockchain firm Chain to launch its first NFT collection, “NFTiff.” As the legendary jewellery house explained, they are “taking NFTs to the next level. Exclusive to CryptoPunks holders, NFTiff transforms your NFT into a bespoke pendant handcrafted by Tiffany & Co. artisans. You’ll also receive an additional NFT version of the pendant.” According to publicly available data, Tiffany’s NFT revenue stood at 12.6 million dollars in October. The NFT collection is made of 250 custom-built pendants designed with materials like gemstones, enamel, and gold and were sold for about 30 ETH (about 49,000 dollars at the time of the announcement in August 2022.) The cost of the NFT, the custom pendant, the chain, and shipping/handling are all included in the fee and the physical pendant, which comes with a chain to serve as a necklace, will be available to be redeemed in 2023. Tiffany’s decision to partner with CryptoPunk - a popular Profile Picture (PFP) NFT collection launched in 2017 and made up of 10,000 uniquely generated digital characters – also lifted the sales volume of CryptoPunk. Indeed, Tiffany’s has seen the highest volume of transactions among top brands trading with NFTs, surpassing the likes of Nike and Adidas. Those 74.000 transactions have resulted into 6.20 million dollars’ worth of NFTs sales and another 4.76 million dollars in royalties. Gucci’s limited Supergucci NFT drop Image: Supergucci, NFT collection by Gucci. Gucci’s pioneering exploration of the Metaverse started in May 2021, with the drop of an NFT film inspired by its Aria fashion collection as part of Christie’s Proof of Sovereignty sale curated by Lady PheOnix. The film was co-directed by Gucci’s creative director Alessandro Michele and renowned photographer Floria Sigismondi, presented Aria collection runaway as a four-minute video clip which sold for 25,000 dollars. Six months later, in early 2022, Gucci started collaborating with vinyl toy creator Superplastic. They co-created a 10,000-piece NFT drop called Supergucci and released it as a three-part series of limited edition NFTs co-created by Michele and Superplastic’s digital personas Janky & Guggimon. Gucci has taken a similar approach than those of Tiffany’s and Dolce & Gabbana, enabling the NFTs’ owners to unlock handmade white ceramic sculptures to accompany their digital corresponding items. To date, Gucci has made close to 11.6 million dollars from selling NFTs. Adidas ‘Into the Metaverse’ Adidas is another brand betting on the Metaverse and already reaping the benefits of such bet. At the end of 2021, Adidas partnered with Bored Ape Yacht Club to sell 30,000 NFTs for 0.2 ETH a piece (22 million dollar at the time.) Each of those non-fungible tokens were redeemable for physical hoodies, tracksuits, and beanies. ‘Into the Metaverse’ is the name of this collaborative NFT project between adidas Originals and NFT pioneers gmoney, Bored Ape Yacht Club and PUNKS Comic. The Phase 1 NFT was the first step of the Into the Metaverse. Phase 1 physical product claims have now closed and the Phase 1 token no longer grants the ability to claim collaborative physical merchandise. Adidas NFTs have been the object of 52,770 transactions ever since, generating 6.2 million dollars in sales and adding other 4.7 million in royalties revenue. Lacoste’s NFTs give owners a say The iconic polo brand has recently joined the Metaverse fashion crowd with an NFT drop. In June, Lacoste launched its first NFT collection titled ‘Undw3’ and pronounced “underwater”. As advanced by the fashion brand, they are looking to sell 11,212 digital pieces that reference Lacoste’s iconic polo shirt L1212 at the starting price of 0.08 ETH (around 1,300 dollars at the time of this edition.) Lacoste’s chief brand officer Catherine Spindler stated in the official announcement how “Undw3 attests to our desire to accompany the phenomenon of decentralization driven by Web3 and bears witness to our ambitions in this area.” Spindler shared the company’s desire to bring together both their physical and digital consumers. Lacoste pioneered yet a different promise to its NFTs owners: They will not only have access to exclusive physical products but will also have a say in the upcoming designs. Noteworthy, Lacoste already tested the Metaverse waters in March, when they launched ‘Croco Island’ in Minecraft, featuring 30 skins (digital outfits) that served as a preview into the Minecraft x Lacoste apparel collection. According to the Dune’s data, these efforts are already paying off in the form of 1.1 million dollars in NFTs sales.
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Packaging giant 3m to stop using 'forever chemicals'

Image: Samsøe Samsøe x Gore-Tex 3M, a global manufacturer of packaging solutions from packing tape to Post-IT notes to waterproof coatings, have said it will stop making and using so-called "forever chemicals", common materials that have been linked to environmental hazards and health problems, such as cancer. 3M follows companies such as Gore-Tex, who have pledged to eliminate PFCs of environmental concern from the life cycle of its consumer fabrics products. Many of 3M’s solutions include substances for coatings, such as waterproofing clothing, chemicals known as PFAS (per and polyfluoroalkyl substances) that do not break down under normal environmental conditions, and have been found in dangerous concentrations in soil, water, food and even the human body. For years campaigners have urged for alternatives in the food industry where harmful chemicals were used to create non-stick pans. The BBC reported 3M will phase out the chemicals by the end of 2025, but honour contracts until then. It will mean thousands of industrial and everyday products will need to be re-calibrated or re-formulated with alternative materials. "With these two actions, 3M is committing to innovate toward a world less dependent upon PFAS," the firm said. 3M said it previously phased out use of two PFAS earlier in the 2000s. Revenue from 'forever chemicals' generates approximately 1.3bn dollars in sales each year, less than 5 percent of its overall revenue, said the BBC. By aligning with consumer and environmental sentiment, 3M is positioning itself as a leader in more environmentally-friendly packaging solutions. Article source: BBC
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Luxury labels to watch: 5 Young Parisian womenswear brands to know

IN PICTURES Designer Laurie Arbellot surrounded by models at the presentation of the Minuit brand. Credit: Minuit. In Paris, the fashion scene is renewing itself and in recent seasons has seen the emergence of luxury brands with promising futures. Crystal applications, lace work or silhouettes with practical elegance, the designers combine luxury with multiple, always ultra-modern style palettes. But what are their plans for 2023, their bestsellers and where are they sold? Here are the five names to keep your eye on next year. Minuit Backstage photo from the presentation of the Minuit label. Credit: Minuit. Before launching her luxury women's ready-to-wear label in September 2020, Laurie Arbellot studied at Studio Berçot and worked at several fashion houses such as Balenciaga and Proenza Schouler. Her time in New York and her Parisian training contribute to Minuit's chic style tinged with sportswear accents. The young label presented its spring/summer 2023 line as part of the official Paris Fashion Week calendar. This Parisian brand offers two collections per year and counts two leather pieces among its bestsellers: its Tomboy trousers in metallic leather and a patent leather jacket called Automoto. Its items are sold in shops from 90 euros for small accessories to 2,500 euros for a signature silk organza dress. Backstage photos from the Minuit presentation. Credit: Midnight. The brand is based in Paris and has an e-shop. Its network of retailers includes La Samaritaine and Printemps Haussmann in Paris, Harvey Nichols in Dubai, Kirna Zabete in New York and La Rinascente in Milan. The opening of its own shop in Paris is one of its future projects. Boutet Solanes Presentation of Boutet Solanes collection spring/summer 2023. Credit: Jose Maria Solanes Constance Boutet, aka Coco Boutet, was recently appointed artistic director of the French brand Zapa and, together with photographer Jose Maria Solanes, founded the Boutet Solanes label in 2020. A graduate of the Esmod school, the designer cut her teeth at the luxury group LVMH and worked at Celine, under the direction of Phoebe Philo. Presentation of Boutet Solanes collection spring/summer 2023. Credit: Jose Maria Solanes Boutet Solanes stands out with pieces of practical elegance and has made its suits its best-sellers. Its spring/summer 2023 collection, inspired by stones and minerals, was presented as part of the official Paris Fashion Week calendar. Based in Paris, the brand will launch its e-commerce site in February 2023 and so far has a wholesale network developed only in North America. It creates two collections a year and offers a boutique price of between 190 euros and 3,200 euros. The Irish Twin Credit: The Irish Twin The Irish Twin is the youngest brand on our list. Launched in 2022, this newcomer to French luxury offers Parisian artisanal production under the direction of founder Jill Bauwens, former women's creative director of ready-to-wear brand The Kooples. The Irish Twin's flamboyantly accented pieces are based around a “host wear” wardrobe – chic and glamorous – with a "joie de vivre" spirit. Among the current collection are: an emerald green satin midi dress adorned with crystals (a bestseller of the moment) or a linen mini-dress with an open back. The release of the collections does not follow a precise schedule. Jill Bauwens creates according to her "desires and desires", she explained over message. Distributed only on the e-shop – but with a pop-up in London planned for 2023 – the pieces range from 650 euros for a satin crop-top to 1,450 euros for a dress. A line of accessories has also been developed and is one of the brand's bestsellers: it consists of large bows to clip onto a bodice and hair accessories. They sell for between 110 euros and 250 euros. Vaillant Vaillant spring-summer 2023 collection. The founder Alice Vaillant. Credit: Vaillant. Coming from the creative studios of the houses Jean-Paul Gaultier and Nina Ricci, designer Alice Vaillant launched her eponymous brand in 2019 and created her first collection in September 2020 for the spring/summer 2021 season. This first show received significant press coverage and made the label a brand to watch. Among its plans for 2023: the house announced its participation in the Andam competition, a runway show in February and a collaboration with shoe brand Nodaleto. Vaillant's delicate, feminine fashion stands out for its signature lace work. Its bestseller is in fact a deconstructed lace top inspired by lingerie and sold for 425 euros on its e-shop. Its retail price range is between 170 euros for underwear pieces and 2,500 euros for a leather coat. Credit: Vaillant. Vaillant offers two main collections a year and launched two capsules in 2022. In 2023, the Parisian label will launch two collections as well as two pre-collections. Next to its e-shop – for which 80 percent of the clientele is American – it is also sold on the Ssense platform, at H Lorenzo (in Los Angeles), Centre Commercial (in Paris) and even Norgattan (in Italy). Vaillant does not yet have its own shop but in December it organised a pop-up store in the Printemps shop in Paris. The house says by email that it has quadrupled its turnover between 2021 and 2022 and specifies that that of 2023 is already equal to that of 2022. Pressiat Credit: Pressiat Founded by Frenchman Vincent Garnier Pressiat in 2020, Pressiat is one of the young French brands highlighted in season 3 of the hit series Emily in Paris. It features a mixed wardrobe with a rock and romantic aesthetic and has made the corset and leotard its bestsellers. The brand plans to launch a line of one-off pieces in 2023, a series of NFTs and will host a cabaret night. Included in the official Paris Fashion Week calendar, Pressiat offers two pre-collections and two presentations per year. It will soon open its e-commerce site and so far has a wholesale network consisting of the following boutiques: H lorenzo (in Los Angeles), Notre (in Chicago), La Collection Particulière, Printemps and Elevastor (in Paris) and Cachemir (in Japon). Its price range is between 400 and 1,800 euros. This article originally appeared on FashionUnited.FR. Translation and edit by: Rachel Douglass. Read more: * Labels to watch: 3 young and responsible fashion brands from Who’s Next * Luxury labels to watch: London womenswear brands to have on your radar * 3 Vintage womenswear labels to watch
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Inditex agrees to 25 percent pay hike, H&M to pay bonuses to store employees

Zara store. Image: Inditex Just before the holidays, fashion giants H&M and Inditex announced that they would pay bonuses to their workers in Spain and Portugal - 500 euros in case of H&M to around 4,000 store employees and 1,000 euros by Inditex to its store employees in Spain. Due to mounting pressure by unions and impending strikes, Inditex agreed to a pay hike of 25 percent (322 euros) on Friday for its workers in A Coruna where the company is headquartered. The companies are reacting to mounting pressure by employees and Spain’s biggest unions, UGT and CCOO, who demand higher pain in view of soaring consumer prices due to inflation. Workers of several industries went on strike in recent weeks, such as air transportation and retail. After around 1,000 workers at Zara stores and other Inditex brands had gone on strike during the busy Black Friday sales week, further strikes on 23rd December and 7th January were announced but then called off.   Bonuses and pay hike from next year While H&M will pay the full bonus next month to all its store employees in Spain who have been with the company at least since January 2022, those who have worked for at least six months will receive 250 euros. Inditex was to pay its bonus in February, depending on the number of hours store employees work, but has since agreed to the pay hike from January 2023. Further increases by 20 euros in November 2023 and 40 euros in 2024 are planned. While H&M announced job cuts despite its cost savings programme, rival Inditex' revenue for the first nine months of 2022 jumped by 19 percent, making Zara founder and Inditex co-founder Amancio Ortega the richest person in fashion and the third-wealthiest person in Europe.
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Jacquemus and Pamela Anderson say Christmas is over, in holiday campaign

Image: Pamela Anderson, Jacquemus SS23, photo by Emmanuel Dunand / AFP Dressed in head to toe white and topped with a faux fur trimmed hat that became iconic in the 1990s when she first wore it, Pamela Anderson in Jacquemus' Holiday campaign is filmed leaving a white washed condominium, towing behind her a Christmas tree. Ms Anderson then walks down a set of steps, pulling the Christmas tree as if it is her beloved pet, and proclaiming ‘Christmas is over, Santa’ when she passes a Santa Claus who says “Joyeux Noël Pamela.” Was that Jacquemus himself dressed as Santa? Perhaps, but the tongue-in-cheek Christmas campaign, which was released on Christmas Day, is a welcome alternative from fashion houses simply shifting products, fragrances and handbags in advertisements, with no message other than self-serving sales. The Paris-based designer has made humour and light-heartedness into a brand persona, often posting personal images, such as that of the wedding to his husband, or home life from his native Marseille and Provence. In September the fast growing French fashion house opened a store on the prestigious avenue Montaigne. View this post on Instagram A post shared by JACQUEMUS (@jacquemus)
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