Harvey Nichols, John Lewis and Primark among those calling on police to prioritise retail crime

Image: Pexels Over 100 retailers have come together in a joint letter to Police and Crime Commissioners (PCCs) in England and Wales, calling on it to commit to making retail crime a priority in local policing strategies. In the letter, which was shared by the British Retail Consortium (BRC), retailers had expressed increasing concern over the rising levels of violence, abuse and antisocial behaviour across their business and the emotional impact it can have on its staff, their families and colleagues. It went on to note that much of the crime reported was in relation to shoplifting, which it said can have an effect both financially on the business and personally for employees. According to the organisation, retailers spent 715 million pounds on crime prevention in 2020/21, through staff training, CCTV investment and in-store security. 1,300 incidents a day, according to the BRC The signees said they welcomed the recent amendment to the new Police, Crime, Sentencing and Courts Act 2022 requiring stronger sentences for those found guilty of violence and abuse against retail workers. The letter read on the ruling: “This amendment sends a very strong signal that assaults of this kind are totally unacceptable but will only serve as a deterrent if the powers it provides are properly and widely used.” Retailers further asked law enforcement to work with businesses to explore ways of making reporting simpler, as well as pushing local authorities to investigate all reports of violence and abuse while monitoring how the new sentencing guidelines are used. A wide range of leading retailers took part in signing the letter, including the likes of All Saints, John Lewis, Harvey Nichols, Primark, Marks & Spencer, New Look and Ted Baker. The call follows the publication of the BRC’s most recent Crime Survey, carried out over the period of April 2020 to March 2021, which found there were 1,300 incidents every single day – almost triple the number of the previous year.
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Sustainability round-up July 2022

Tree Girl. Illustration: Jackie Mallon There was no sign of a summer slump in terms of sustainability, on the contrary: in July, several studies were published that provided us with plenty of reading material during the hot days, for example on the ubiquitous topic of greenwashing, but also on textile recycling and consumption. On brand and resale side, there was quite some activity too, and long-awaited fashion fairs also took place in a physical format again. Brands French accessories maker Longchamp is repurposing end-of-roll and leftover stock to create new handbags. The luxury bag purveyor is reusing the canvas fabric from its archives to create Le Pliage Re-Play, a new style available in three formats. Global retailer Uniqlo has launched a new campaign aiming to support more circular and sustainable consumer practices and raise awareness for environmental issues, such as ocean pollution. The international ‘Power of Clothing’ campaign kicked off on 1st July and includes the initiatives ‘Buy and Join’,which will see parent company Fast Retailing donate up to one million US dollars from the profits of a select collection of 100 percent recycled material clothing, and ‘Learn and Join’, the launch of a dedicated website through which visitors can learn more about environmental issues and how to take action. Meanwhile, Asos, Boohoo and Asda got investigated by a UK watchdog over ‘green’ claims. Resale FashionUnited spoke with former Jay Z and Beyoncé execs who launched the fashion resale platform Galaxy. Mytheresa and Vestiaire Collective expanded their resale partnership to the US, while the latter also started a localised service in South Korea. The luxury resale platform Rebag expanded its product offering to include footwear and select apparel, alongside its luxury accessories for both men and women, while premium high street retailer Jigsaw teamed up with luxury rental and re-sale platform My Wardrobe HQ to launche a fully circular rental, subscription and resale service. Events For many brands, retailers and buyers, 2022 is the year of physical fairs after a break of almost two and a half years. The desire to meet face to face and talk about the industry was so great that even the hot weather couldn't dampen visitors’ enthusiasm at the many sustainable fashion events that took place. Women’s fashion fair Pure London returned to the capital from 17th to 19th July. Despite the extreme heat in London, it drew a positive balance after an optimistic event. Sustainable fashion fair Neonyt focused on end consumers for the first time and counted more than 1,000 national and international visitors. Innovation Irish clothing retailer Primark further expanded its partnership with Spanish recycling specialist Recover. It launched a new line of casual wear, becoming the first retailer to use Recover's sustainable RColorBlend fibre on a global scale. Four textile and footwear suppliers, On, Patagonia, Puma and Salomon, have partnered with French biochemical company Carbios to use its unique biorecycling technology to recycle synthetic fibres, improving the recyclability of their products. A new polyester recycling trial by Accelerating Circularity is looking to bring post-consumer polyester waste back into textile manufacturing. Entitled ‘Accelerating Circularity Europe’, the initiative, which is backed by Target, Walmart, Inditex, Zalando and Amazon will begin the trial in Europe and has been set as a circular fashion priority in the eyes of European policymakers. From autumn, Gore-Tex will be launching the first products with a new, more sustainable ePE membrane, which will mark a real turnaround for the entire outdoor industry as it replaces the group of chemicals known as PFCs, which are used as auxiliaries to make PTFE and to give textiles a water-repellent finish. Last but not least, this article looked at the new plant-based craze in fashion, one of which is mushroom leather. Biomaterials manufacturer MycoWorks revealed the first commercial launch of its mushroom based material, Reishi, which has been used to create the Reishi Collection by luxury hatmaker Nick Fouquet. Studies A number of studies and surveys looked at consumer behaviour and willingness to do something for sustainable products in July. This one, for example, wondered if customer selfies could curb online returns? According to the new textile recycling study “Scaling textile recycling in Europe - turning waste into value” by McKinsey & Company, at least one fifth of textile waste could become new clothing and a circular economy for textiles could create 15,000 new jobs in Europe by 2030 and reach a market size of 6 to 8 billion euros. Students of the Amsterdam Fashion Institute talked about digital fashion course and the future of sustainable production. Also read: * France plans fashion revolution with climate-impact labels * Environmentalism fueling conversation around circular fashion * Inside Isko, the manufacturer looking to shake up the denim industry * G-Star Head of Sustainability: Is a circular fashion industry achievable? ‘Only if we're all on board’ * Sustainability round-up June 2022
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Burberry receives SBTi approval for its net-zero emissions target

Image: Burberry Burberry has become the first luxury fashion brand and one of the first companies globally to receive approval from the Science Based Targets initiative (SBTi) for its net-zero emissions target. The validation from SBTi confirms that Burberry’s goals to reach net-zero emissions by 2040 are based on the latest climate science and meet the urgent need to keep warming to 1.5°C in line with the Paris Agreement. Caroline Laurie, vice president of corporate responsibility at Burberry, said in a statement: “The Science Based Targets initiative (SBTi) plays a critical role in ensuring ambitions set by businesses are in line with the latest climate science and will contribute to tackling the climate emergency. Rooting our commitments in science has always been a priority at Burberry, so we can ensure the steps we are taking will have the necessary impact and bring about lasting change. “We continue to challenge ourselves to drive measurement, improvement and transparency across our operations and we are committed to continue working with our suppliers and partners to accelerate the adoption of more sustainable practices. We hope this encourages others to do the same.” Burberry gets validation from the Science Based Targets initiative on carbon reduction targets Burberry’s net-zero target is underpinned by a series of commitments across scope 1, 2 and 3 emissions. In the near term, Burberry has committed itself to reducing absolute scope 1 and 2 greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions by 95 percent by 2023 from a 2017 base year and reducing absolute scope 3 GHG emissions by 46.2 percent by 2030 from a 2019 base year. In the long term, Burberry has also pledged to maintain at least 95 percent absolute scope 1 and 2 GHG reductions from 2023 through 2040 against an FY2017 base year, while reducing absolute scope 3 GHG emissions by 90 percent by 2040 from a 2019 base year. Scopes 1 and 2 cover emissions generated from Burberry’s own operations, such as electricity and gas in stores, manufacturing hubs and offices. Scope 3 refers to emissions in Burberry’s extended supply chain, such as energy usage by manufacturing and material sourcing partners. Luiz Amaral, chief executive officer of the Science Based Targets initiative (SBTi), added: “Climate science tells us that we need rapid and deep emissions cuts if we are to achieve global net-zero and prevent the most damaging effects of climate change. Burberry’s net-zero targets match the urgency of the climate crisis and set a clear example that their peers must follow.”
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Revlon names interim chief financial officer

Image: Revlon, Facebook Beauty Revlon has announced that Victoria Dolan is retiring as the company’s chief financial officer during bankruptcy proceedings and has named Matt Kvarda, managing director at professional services firm Alvarez & Marsal as interim CFO. The US-based beauty company said that Dolan would be stepping down from her role as chief financial officer on September 30 to “ensure a smooth transition of her responsibilities,” with Kvarda taking up the interim role from October 1. He will report directly to Debra Perelman, Revlon’s chief executive officer. “I want to thank Victoria for her tremendous dedication and numerous contributions over the past four years as part of our team and I wish her all the best in retirement,” Perelman said in a statement. “We are fortunate to have Matt on board and look forward to working closely with him to drive forward the restructuring process in the months to come.” The news follows Revlon filing for chapter 11 bankruptcy in June amid liquidity constraints caused by ongoing supply chain disruptions, rising inflation and obligations to its lenders, as well as other global challenges.
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Victoria’s Secret launches programme donating undergarments to women

Image: Victoria's Secret Victoria’s Secret has launched a new programme through which it has said it is aiming to donate essential undergarments to one million women and young adults by 2025. The ‘VS&Co Essentials’ initiative will begin with a donation of nearly one million panties to be distributed to around 140,000 women across the US, with each to receive a one-week supply of panties. The first donation will be made in partnership with Maryland-based nonprofit I Support The Girls, which collects and distributes essential items to people experiencing homelessness. The brand said that the programme will be expanding internationally in 2023, with it additionally planning to include period panty and mastectomy bra donations in the offer too. Furthermore, Victoria’s Secret will also be working with a growing list of similar nonprofits as the programme expands. Those interested are able to apply through a dedicated site. “Since becoming a new, independent company, we have been focused on using our platform for purpose, to become a leading advocate for women,” said Leslie Nixon, associate vice president of community relations, in a release. Nixon added: “Ensuring access to basic essentials such as quality undergarments is one way we can help women feel more confident and supported as they work to overcome life’s obstacles.”
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Shiseido Beauty Innovations Fund invests in Trautec

Beauty The Shiseido Beauty Innovations Fund, with the Japanese beauty company as its lead investor, announced its first investment in Jiangsu Trautec Medical Technology Co., Ltd., a Chinese maker of recombinant collagen-based biomaterials. In a statement, the Shiseido Beauty Innovations Fund said it has invested 100 million renminbi into Trautec and will form a strategic partnership with the Chinese biomaterials maker to work together in areas such as product research and development, raw material supply, and sales channels to accelerate the exploration of new areas in functional skincare. Trautec, established in 2015, produces materials primarily for use in the medical and cosmetics industries and operates the full value chain from research and development to manufacturing and distribution. It also holds multiple intellectual property rights in the development of recombinant collagen and owns a production plant located in Changzhou, Jiangsu Province. “The market of functional skin care, which offers specific functions to skin, is growing significantly, as more Chinese consumers are looking for effective solutions to their skin problems,” added Shiseido. “The needs for recombinant collagen are expanding because of its stability and effectiveness, as well as wide application to medical, health care and cosmetics fields.” Shiseido announced the launch of the Shiseido Beauty Innovations Fund in 2021 in partnership with Boyu Capital, a leading alternative asset management firm with offices in Hong Kong, Beijing, Shanghai and Singapore. The fund was established to explore investment opportunities in China’s emerging cosmetics and wellness brands, as well as related technology companies such as e-commerce and digital services. Through the fund, Shiseido is looking to enhance its business portfolio in China to meet the diversifying consumer needs and to steadily strengthen its China business, which is one of the pillars of the company’s medium-to-long-term strategy ‘Win 2023 and Beyond’.
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Wolverine Worldwide lowers FY outlook after missing on revenue

Image: Sweaty Betty, Facebook Wolverine Worldwide has cut its full-year revenue outlook after missing its expectation in the second quarter of the year. In the three months to July 2, the US company made revenue of 713.6 million dollars, up 12.9 percent from the prior year and up 25.5 percent from two years ago. Its international business performed particularly well, with revenue up 45.3 percent to 295.2 million dollars. Based on its results, it now expects full-year revenue in the range of 2.74 billion dollars and 2.79 billion dollars, down from its previous estimate of between 2.775 billion dollars and 2.85 billion dollars. June challenges Wolverine Worldwide president and CEO Brendan Hoffman told investors: “Despite a slowdown in June shipments, we are pleased with delivering record organic revenue in the quarter.” The company posted a better-than-expected operating margin of 23.5 percent despite “unplanned headwinds related to elevated customer inventory, a stronger US dollar, and some lingering supply chain delays”. Net income came in at 124.5 million dollars, up from 44.4 million dollars a year earlier. The company made an adjusted diluted earnings per share of 67 cents, down from 67 cents a year earlier, but still ahead of expectation. It now expects full-year diluted earnings per share of between 2.62 dollars and 2.72 dollars.
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Sustainability pop-up opens on Regent Street

The Crown Estate has teamed up with independent designer concept store Lone Design Club to open a sustainability-focused pop-up store on London’s Regent Street. The pop-up, named The Conscious Edit, will shine a spotlight on emerging brands, companies, and individuals “working hard towards a more sustainable future”. It will bring together “industry leaders, change-makers and a range of sustainability conscious, independent fashion, beauty and lifestyle brands”. As well as having products for sale, The Conscious Edit will also place a focus on circular fashion, with a rental service through platform Rotaro, as well as an area for shoppers to repair and upcycle their items in partnership with Sojo. Additionally, the pop-up will host a range of educational talks, live podcasts, catwalk shows, and presentations. Simon Harding-Roots, the managing director for London at The Crown Estate, said in a release: “We wanted to create a purposeful experience on Regent Street, in the heart of our London portfolio to showcase and learn from brands who are pushing themselves to design and create products that people love, whilst also minimising their impact on the planet, and helping support social outcomes. “This is something we know our customers and visitors are passionate about together with a more diverse retail offer. We hope this pop up will provide food for thought alongside a fun and engaging new experience.”
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French cosmetics firm Laboratoires Vivacy is back on the market

Beauty Image: Pexels Last November bids opened for Laboratoires Vivacy, a French cosmetics giant specialised in the development, production and distribution of injectables. Its products, such as its popular hyaluronic-acid dermal fillers, dubbed the magic molecule, are used by physicians in over 80 countries. A sale was not immediately made. TA Associates, a private equity firm founded in the United States in 1968, is reviving plans for a sale, and is working with BNP Paribas and Rothschild on a potential divestment reported Bloomberg. TA Associates bought a majority stake in the company in 2019, after a Hong Kong listed company took a minority share in 2016. Vivacy is a pioneer in the fields of aesthetic medicine and also offers non-invasive premium anti-aging skincare products developed by France’s leading dermatologists. A potential sale could value the company at 1 billion euros said Bloomberg.
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Nike launches global maternity programme

Image: Courtesy Nike Nike is launching a global maternity training programme focusing on exercise for every stage of pregnancy. Nike said it aims to invite more pregnant and postpartum people back into sport. Nike entered the maternity market in 2020, with a collection called Nike (M). “Nike is listening to and learning from a much broader range of athletes, at all levels, and all body shapes. And as one of the most transformative stages of a woman’s life, we want to help ensure Motherhood was the start of a new stage – not a stop – in a woman’s sports journey,” Carmen Zolman senior design director of apparel innovation at Nike, said. A 24-workout training programme covers strength training, cardio, mobility and yoga throughout every pregnancy stage. In a statement Nike said the guidance and training initiative is an extension of Nike’s support of pregnant people through products and services. The core training is a 24-workout prenatal and postpartum exercise plan developed by qualified trainers (and vetted by an exclusive panel of five pregnancy experts) Nike said. Data from Grand View Research estimates the global maternity wear market size valued at 18.3 billion dollars in 2018 and is anticipated to expand at a CAGR of 4.3 percent from 2019 to 2025. The market growth is attributed to increasing focus on pregnancy fashion and growing pregnant working women population in developing and emerging countries.
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Price hikes on back-to-school essentials present challenges for consumers

NRF and Prosper Insights & Analytics Despite rising inflation, consumers are prioritizing back-to-school and college spending. According to the National Retail Federation (NRF) over one third or 38 percent of consumers have committed to cutting back on other expenses in order to be prepared for the upcoming fall semester. They expect to spend more than usual on both K-12 and college items with the NRF predicting that families will spend 864 dollars on school items, approximately 15 dollars more than last year, on children from elementary through high school age. For college age children, families are expected to spend 1,199 dollars on college or university items, which is on par with last year but up 223 dollars compared to pre-pandemic numbers. Nearly half of the spending falls into categories of electronics and dorm or apartment furnishings. Second only to the holiday period, back-to-school is a significant spending period for both consumers and retailers alike. But whereas holiday purchases center on gifting, school expenses are considered essentials by families. As a result, NRF President and CEO Matthew Shay, says consumers, “are taking whatever steps they can, including cutting back on discretionary spending, shopping sales and buying store- or off-brand items, in order to purchase what they need for the upcoming school year.” NRF and Prosper Insights & Analytics Back-to-school spending consistently exceeds pre-pandemic level Since the beginning of the pandemic, back-to-school shopping has increased dramatically which analysts put down to the changing nature of education and challenges of remote and hybrid classroom experiences. Total spending is up 168 dollars compared to 2019 and is predicted to nudge the 74 billion dollar mark, an increase on last year’s record of 71 billion dollars. More than half of consumers had already begun bargain hunting in early July, hoping to get ahead of the pressure associated with summer’s end. But 68 percent of shoppers who responded to NRF’s survey reported price hikes in this area leaving many waiting to purchase as the season progresses in the hope of better deals and sales events. Retailers are also uncertain about timing of deliveries and how much merchandise they will receive due to the ongoing chaos in the supply chain. But there is an upside, says Nikki Baird, VP of Strategy at Aptos, a retail technology provider to fashion brands globally: "Consumers benefit from that uncertainty, if they are savvy about locating what they want, especially as the season comes to a close. In a prolonged work-from-home environment, sometime around Labor Day might be a good time to stock up on home office supplies at a discount." Phil Rise, Executive Vice President of Strategy at Prosper Insights & Analytics, which partnered with NRF on the study of 7,830 consumers, agrees. “We are seeing real shifts in the way people are shopping and spending on back-to-class items since before the pandemic. As a result, retailers are also shifting by bringing in inventory earlier and extending back-to-class offerings.”
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Arcadia reportedly in talks to close one billion pound pension fund

Image: Arcadia Group New reports have stated that Arcadia Group’s pension trustees are close to securing a deal to ensure its retirement scheme payments are pushed through two years after the company collapsed. According to Sky News, pension trustees of the former Topshop owner are in detailed discussions with insurance company Pension Insurance Corporation (PIC) about a transaction worth reportedly around one billion pounds of liabilities. The deal could see the retirement funding promises made by the retail empire, owned by Philip Green, fulfilled and would bring one of the largest pension rows in British history to an end. In 2019, Green agreed to a 385 million pound funding package with The Pensions Regulator to fill the gap in the group’s pension schemes, which covered retail employees at its chain stores including Topshop and Dorothy Perkins. A spokesperson for Arcardia’s trustees told Sky News in a statement: “Trustees are working hard to protect members’ benefits and are continuing to explore several options to ensure the best long-term outcome for members of both pension schemes. “Discussions are ongoing and trustees will update members at the earliest opportunity.”
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Abercrombie & Fitch launches new refreshed retail concept

Image: Abercrombie & Fitch Abercrombie & Fitch has unveiled a new “getaway” inspired retail concept inspired by the feelings experienced at the start of a long weekend to cater for its young millennial and zillennial customers. The new getaway-themed has been designed to replicate a chic hotel lobby, explains Abercrombie & Fitch in the press release, to prioritise omni-channel shopping and provide customers with “an immersive interpretation of the Abercrombie experience of today”. The concept aims to offer its customers a “vacation from the typical shopping space,” with a refined and relaxing shopping experience punctuated with elevated fixtures and furnishings, wood accent walls, and stylised spaces. Image: Abercrombie & Fitch Carey Krug, senior vice president and head of marketing for Abercrombie brands, said: “Our new getaway-inspired stores reflect the unity of both our brand aesthetic and intuitive, omni-channel functionality. “Abercrombie’s young millennial and zillennial customers continue to utilise our stores for a variety of needs—whether it’s discovering new products and trends, picking up online orders, connecting with friends virtually or IRL, figuring out their best fit, or simply enjoying the brand experience. Everything from the flow and design elements to the functionality of the spaces was architected to reflect our customer’s ideal experience, whether they’re visiting for a transformative, curated shopping experience or utilising the store’s omni-hub capabilities.” Abercrombie & Fitch opens new “getaway” retail concepts Image: Abercrombie & Fitch The first two Abercrombie & Fitch stores getting the “getaway” concept opened at Los Angeles’ Del Amo Fashion Centre and outside Milan in the Il Centro Shopping Centre. Abercrombie said it plans to open multiple getaway-concept stores around the globe through the remainder of the fiscal year, with even more planned for 2023. Joanna Ewing, general vice president and head of creative for Abercrombie brands, added: "We translated our customer’s mindset into a real-world immersive experience. Their love for our denim manifested in a dedicated denim studio. The fitting rooms have been optimised with customisable lighting and chic design elements. "Their affinity for travel is captured in the store’s hotel lobby-like vibe, complete with a check-in desk. The entire design of these new stores is the unique getaway mindset of our customers brought to life in a way that communicates elevated ease, which is exactly what Abercrombie represents." Image: Abercrombie & Fitch
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Instagram, after a backlash, pauses changes to its algorithm

Image: Instagram Facebook page The cute little square photo app that made Instagram a classic amongst the social media platforms no longer exists. Instagram’s best loved feature has morphed into one giant video reel with an algorithm bent on showing newness to users. Feeds are no longer dominated with content from followed users, but from third parties and other users, that Meta says users may find "interesting." Instagram has been pivoting to video since 2019, but not since TikTok’s star began ascending has Instagram made such radical changes. Proclaiming the future is short-form video means photographic images could be seen as nearing obsoletion to parent Meta. Instagram has held back on going full screen with 9:16 photos after much criticism from users. But the temporary halt will see the platform begin to roll out further testing within the next two weeks. CEO Adam Mosseri in July confirmed Instagram’s full screen feed is in beta and is meant to be a more engaging experience. The backlash, however, has been loud and clear. Mosseri stated video dominance is happening naturally as users are posting more video than ever before. Furthermore, all video content going forward will be in the Reels format in order to simplify posting options. Users who primarily use photography will have to grapple with the platform's new formatting and seeing less engagement. Full screen images are similar in layout to TikTok, although Instagram’s heritage square images will not work as well in a taller frame. Many creatives are not happy with Instagram's latest updates, with marketers scrambling to change formats to video in order to garner the same results and engagement. View this post on Instagram A post shared by ▵✖️tati (@illumitati) No sense of control Brands and users with large communities have vocalised to have lost a sense of control, that followers are no longer seeing their content, with feeds directed to Explore pages and discovery of videos and unknown users. Mark Zuckergerg in an earnings call confirmed the change in user feed: “AI recommending content that you'll find interesting from across Facebook or Instagram, even if you don't follow those creators. Reels is one part of this trend that focuses on the growth of short-form video as a content format, but this overall AI trend is much broader and covers all types of content, including text, images, links, group content, and more. Building a recommendation system across all these types of content is something we're uniquely focused on.” In a separate note, Meta CEO Mark Zuckerberg confirmed expansion of NFT support on Instagram, following a test launch last May. Users will be able to post an NFT or digital collectible after connecting a digital wallet to Instagram.
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Akila opens flagship in New York and is eyeing international expansion

In Pictures Image: Akila Independent eyewear brand Akila from Los Angeles, which focuses on handmade, limited-run eyewear has opened its first flagship in New York City. Akila has chosen New York’s Lower East Side for its debut store in the city, for the neighbourhood's “rich and diverse history with the local art and music scenes,” as it looks to establish the brand on the East Coast of the US. The New York flagship at 138 Ludlow Street will be more than a storefront, states Akila, as it will provide a community platform for exclusive launches, collaborations, and special projects. Image: Akila The interior of the store reflects Akila’s design ethos, drawing inspiration from industrial aesthetics and international travel, with the layout featuring a vaulted luminous grid ceiling that curves seamlessly into a display wall for the brand’s sunglasses. The curves and grids are repeated in the perforated stainless steel record wall and tiled countertops offset by organic planted areas. Akila founder and creative director Chris Mart said in the press release that the brand’s first flagship in New York is just the beginning, and he is looking to expand Akila’s retail footprint internationally, with the brand adding that it is eyeing Tokyo for its next location. Image: Akila Image: Akila
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