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Video: Louis Vuitton presents its FW20 shoe collection

In this video, Louis Vuitton presents its FW20 shoe collection featuring Peggy Gou. Watch the video below. Video: Louis Vuitton via YouTube Photo credit: Louis Vuitton, Facebook
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Fashion’s Creative Directors Direct from Home

When the Covid-19 pandemic hit this spring, many fashion companies had to put their advertising campaigns on hold. It was no longer possible to gather creative teams—directors, photographers, models and crew--together in person, in studio or on site. And so, companies had to get creative quickly. Would you rather listen to this story? You can hear the full podcast with Laura Lanteri here. Some brands chose to send new styles from their collection to models and influencers, asking them to be creative and to use what they had at their disposal, hoping for the best. For many brands, this was the first time they had ceded creative control to the model or influencer. In the end, some of these campaigns, although home-spun, went viral and were very successful. Others didn’t quite hit the mark. Which begs the question, have brands hit on an all-together new marketing strategy? And is this model worth including in future marketing strategies? Laura Lanteri, creative director and consultant at LLNYC Worldwide, a Global Advertising and Marketing firm based in New York City, says no. She believes this strategy is short-lived and only produces results in terms of metrics, data and social media engagement. She asserts, “In my opinion, a campaign is really successful when it becomes part of the day-to-day conversation, when it becomes part of our cultural landscape. Influencer marketing doesn’t have the power to do that. It all depends on what we decide to focus on: cultural relevance or Instagram likes.” And yet, with the growth of social media such as Instagram, and the ability and access for just about anyone to create content, a real shift in consumer demand has occurred over the past decade. A shift that places more value on realistic imagery and narrative as opposed to perfection, or at least the illusion of perfection, that the fashion industry has peddled over the past century. It’s an illusion that is very one-sided, stresses Laura. “Fashion has been, for decades now, the gatekeeper and promoter of heavily biased narratives centered around a Euro-centric, white-centric standard of beauty that was never achievable. It was built and designed to be unachievable. That was not perfection, it was racism and discrimination. People are getting tired of being talked down, being critiqued into submission. When they look at fashion, I think they want to see themselves, in a real way. And we are a long way from that.” The need to balance reality and perfection in a pluralistic society creates a real tension then for brands that want to retain as much control over their positive image as possible, but also want to connect authentically and engage in two-way conversations with their customers. There are certainly examples of brands at both extremes, from Chanel’s unwillingness to even allow customers to use their name on social media, to Marc Jacobs and Burberry who solicit and distribute user-generated content. So,how will fashion brands approach this new strategy, especially when they work so hard to control the brand narrative, and ensure their brand DNA is not denigrated? Laura suggests the question is reframed. “I think customers will ask: What does Chanel have to add to my life now? Why am I investing in this company? What are they doing for me and do they align with my values?” Laura recalls the famous Meryl Streep monologue about “cerulean blue” in The Devil Wears Prada that describes how fashion insiders dictate fashion trends for the masses. “I love that scene so much, because it encapsulates everything that needs to change in luxury today. The time to talk down to our audience is up. I think it’s time to listen." In an era driven primarily by cold data, the focus on listening is key for today’s creative director. And it’s then their role to edit and curate that message in a way that makes sense for their brand. “I think creativity and true originality in thinking will be more important than ever. I think it will be crucial to go back to creative roles that are not purely driven by sales forecasts and profit margins, even that is really hard to imagine. The role of the creative director will entail decolonizing the fashion narrative as much as creating a new language.” She recommends that creative directors look inward, much more than they have in the past, and ask these important questions: “How can we make people feel good about themselves? How can we lift people up? And can we make everybody feel seen and heard?” And she realizes this will be a difficult and ongoing process--rethinking the foundation of fashion advertising and marketing. “I think we have very interesting times ahead!”
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Primark takes 430 million pound sales hit from lockdowns

Primark lost an estimated 430 million pounds during the second wave of Covid-19 lockdowns, the fast-fashion giant’s parent company Associated British Foods (AB Foods) announced Friday. But the company said it managed to cut the operating costs of its closed stores by some 25 percent during the second lockdown, and that sales have been “very strong” in its major markets of the Republic of Ireland, England, France and Belgium which reopened in recent weeks. To make up for lost sales, the company has extended the opening hours during the run-up to Christmas in most of its stores in the Republic of Ireland and England. Primark pushes on with store openings Across all its markets, 34 Primark stores remain temporarily closed, including all those in Northern Ireland and Austria, representing 7 percent of its total retail selling space compared to 62 percent when the highest number of stores were closed last month. Since the beginning of the financial year, the company has opened new stores in the US in New Jersey and Florida. AB Foods said like-for-like performance at these new stores, as well as at its other reopened US locations, has been “very encouraging”. The retailer also reported a “very strong customer response” to its first store in Rome, Italy, which opened last week. The business has also recently opened its fifth store in Barcelona, Spain, and on Friday opened its first store in León, Spain, bringing its total in the country to 50. “Notwithstanding the currently announced periods of restriction, we continue to expect Primark sales and profit to be higher this financial year compared to last. We will continue to expand retail selling space,” AB Foods said in a statement. Photo credit: Primark
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Ms Excel | Conditional Analysis | Formula Function in Detail

BFC Awards 2020 honour brands who "led change in the industry"

In a break from tradition to mark a tumultuous year, the British Fashion Council's (BFC) annual awards on Thursday honoured 20 individuals and brands, including Chanel and Burberry, who "led change in the industry". The honourees, revealed in a video posted online, were recognised for their contribution to one of four categories -- community, creativity, environment and people -- with many honoured for their contribution during the coronavirus pandemic. They included French fashion house Chanel, which "moved manufacturing to support the production of PPE" and British giant Burberry, which joined the coronavirus fight by repurposing its trench coat factory to make non-surgical gowns. More than 800 members of the international fashion industry were asked to nominate who they thought should receive an accolade, with the list being whittled down to a final 20. Indian actress Priyanka Chopra Jonas was among those presenting the awards, as was Formula One great Lewis Hamilton. Other honourees included London-based designer Michael Halpern, whose tribute at London Fashion Week to frontline health workers and contribution to the production of PPE was called "inspiring and extraordinary". The people category recognised those who encouraged "equal, diverse, empowered workforces from head office to supply chain and shop floor." They included New York-based designer Aurora James, who was honoured for her campaign calling on retailers to commit to dedicating 15 percent of their shelf space to black-owned brands, while others received accolades for their work with Black Lives Matter. British big-hitter Stella McCartney was honoured in the environmental category for having "raised the bar for the industry as a whole with creativity and sustainability shaping the brand's DNA." Fellow British designer Jonathan Anderson, founder of the JW Anderson label, picked up an award in the creativity category, for those who have "defined the shape of global fashion." "This year, Jonathan Anderson redefined the possibilities of what a show can be with Covid-19 restrictions by pioneering show-in-a-box and show-on-the-wall concepts for both JW Anderson and Loewe," said the BFC. "The collections were a defiant celebration of fashion and craft." The Fashion Awards is the annual fundraiser for the BFC Foundation.(AFP)
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Timberland launches footwear made from renewable, recycled materials

VF Corp-owned Timberland has launched footwear made exclusively with renewable and recycled materials. The upper of the 'Truecloud', which comes in a boot version and a Chukka version, comprises 50 percent responsibly sourced wool and 50 percent nylon blend. The linings are made of 70 percent eucalyptus tree fibers, a renewable raw material that comes from sustainably managed forests, and 30 percent recycled cotton blend, which uses excess cotton from manufacturing that would otherwise have gone to waste. The recycled cotton requires 95 percent less water to make than traditional cotton fabric, according to the brand. The footwear also features 100 percent recycled PET laces. The shoes are available globally on the brand’s website and cost 145 pounds for the knit boots and 120 pounds for the knit Chukka. Photo credit: Timberland
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Express comparable sales decline by 30 percent in Q3

Consolidated net sales at Express Inc. decreased 34 percent to 322.1 million dollars with consolidated comparable sales down 30 percent. The company said in a statement that comparable retail sales, which include both Express stores and ecommerce, decreased 33 percent compared to the third quarter of 2019, while comparable outlet sales decreased 20 percent. “In the third quarter, we continued to advance the Expressway Forward strategy while taking decisive and appropriate action to manage our liquidity. Our ecommerce business continues to gain momentum and the new fashion product that fully reflects the Express Edit viewpoint is outpacing the balance of our assortment,” said Tim Baxter, the company’s Chief Executive Officer. Gross margin for the quarter was 4.3 percent of net sales compared to 28.2 percent in last year’s third quarter. Operating loss was 110.9 million dollars compared to a loss of 6.7 million dollars in the third quarter of 2019. The company added that net loss was 90.3 million dollars or a loss of 1.39 dollars per diluted share, while on an adjusted basis, net loss was 76.2 million dollars or a loss of 1.17 dollars per diluted share for the third quarter of 2020. Subsequent to quarter end, the company also completed a ten percent workforce reduction at its Columbus, Ohio corporate office, which are expected to result in 13 million dollars in benefits in 2021, and are in addition to the 95 million dollars cash tax benefit the company expects to receive in the second quarter of 2021 as part of the CARES Act. Picture:Business Wire
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Ms Excel Conditional Analysis Use of IF with Combination of AND,OR Function

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Video: BOF shows the state of fashion in 2021

In this video, The Business of Fashion (BOF) shows the state of fashion in 2021 after the unprecedented events of 2020. Watch the full video below. Source: The Business of Fashion via YouTube Photo credit: The Business of Fashion, Facebook
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Calares announces leadership changes to drive growth, names Jay Schmidt as President

Caleres has announced several transformational changes to its leadership structure that the company said, will ensure greater alignment with its strategic direction, accelerate its growth initiatives, unlock the power of its portfolio of brands and drive sustainable, long-term value for its shareholders. This transition, the company added, combines the organization’s operating divisions under a unified structure. As a part of the new strategy, Jay Schmidt has been named President of the company, effective immediately. “This transformation will drive a renewed, consumer-focused approach that will combine the knowhow of our internal resources with the fresh ideas of new industry talent and draw on the strengths of our entire portfolio in the most efficient and value-creating way possible,” said Diane Sullivan, Chairman and Chief Executive Officer of the company in a statement. Jay Schmidt named President of Caleres As president, the company further said, Schmidt will assume responsibility for all of the consumer and brand strategy for Caleres’ entire portfolio, which includes Famous Footwear, Allen Edmonds, Dr. Scholl’s, Naturalizer, Sam Edelman and Vionic, among others. Schmidt most recently held the position of Division President, Caleres Brand Portfolio. Prior to joining the company in 2009, Schmidt spent more than 25 years developing his extensive merchandising, portfolio management and brand marketing experience. He spent ten years with Nine West Group in several capacities and held positions of increasing responsibility with Lord & Taylor, May Merchandising Corporation and Macy’s. “Jay is a strategic and innovative leader, merchant at his core, cultural steward, and the ideal person to step into the president’s role. He is one of a few people who can combine his extensive expertise with his strong vision around product creation and brand development, all while keeping the customer at the very center of his focus,” added Sullivan. Caleres announces leadership appointments Caleres also announced several other changes to the portfolio’s leadership structure – tapping both internal and external talent to support and implement its strategy. The company has appointed Lydia Park Luis as President, Brand Portfolio-New York Group, and will have responsibility for the company’s international business. Luis was most recently chief executive officer of Jack Rogers where she oversaw rebranding and reorganization of the 60-year-old footwear brand. Prior to Jack Rogers, she was chief commercial officer of Rag & Bone and held leadership positions at Tory Burch, where she led the U.S. wholesale business and international operations and licensing. Additionally, Keith Duplain has been promoted to President, Brand Portfolio-St. Louis Group. Duplain has been with Caleres for 15 years and has more than two decades of experience within the industry. As previously disclosed, effective November 20, 2020, Michael Edwards was named President, Famous Footwear leading Caleres’ largest brand. “Luis, Duplain and Edwards, in combination with the outstanding leadership of Sam Edelman and Chris Gallagher, will create an even more powerful team as we continue to drive our consumer and brand strategy moving forward,” said Sullivan. Furthermore, the company has formed a new, digital acceleration team and Willis Hill, Caleres’ Senior Vice President and Chief Information Officer, has been entrusted to assemble the core digital team, formulate a strategy, execute the plan and drive further ecommerce growth across the entire portfolio. Hill has been with Caleres for 12 years – holding positions of increasing responsibility within the organization – contributing meaningfully to the development of the company’s digital and technology platform. Picture credit:Business Wire
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Video: Vera Wang presents her FW20/21 collection

In this video, Vera Wang presents her fall/winter 20/21 collection at New York Fashion Week. Watch the fashion show below. Video: FF Channel via YouTube Photo credit: Vera Wang, Facebook
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Drest adds Supermodel line-up to fashion styling game

The world’s first interactive luxury styling game, Drest has announced that it will feature five supermodels Natalia Vodianova, Precious Lee, Irina Shayk, Imaan Hammam and Candice Huffine as hyper-realistic avatars from December 1. Drest, founded by Lucy Yeomans, the former editor-in-chief of Harper’s Bazaar UK, is a luxury real-virtual-real platform that features gamification, shopping and entertainment. It allows players to adopt the role of a fashion stylist, responding to daily styling challenges inspired by real-time fashion news using the latest products from leading luxury brands. The Supermodels will become part of the game and users will be able to cast them into dedicated Photoshoot Challenges for free for a nine-day introductory period from December 1 to 9. With players being able to style them in fashion products from over 200 leading luxury fashion brands including Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Prada, Off-White, Loewe, Chloé, Thom Browne, Burberry, Stella McCartney and Fenty. Each Supermodel avatar will also have nine virtual hairstyles unique to them, exclusively designed by hairdresser Sam McKnight, while their virtual makeup has been designed by Drest’s consultant makeup artist, Mary Greenwell. Another key component of the partnership is to highlight each of the model’s individual philanthropic causes in the platform’s editorial narrative. Following the introductory period, when players book the Supermodels, 5 percent of the purchase will be donated to their chosen charities, which include The Naked Heart Foundation, BayGanda, Pomogi, She’s the First and Movemeant Foundation. Drest platform partners with Supermodels including Natalia Vodianova and Irina Shayk Lucy Yeomans, creator, founder and co-chief executive officer of Drest, said in a statement: “We are absolutely thrilled to welcome this very modern line-up to Drest. We wanted to cast some of the most exciting women working in fashion who reflect this innovative era - Natalia, Precious, Irina, Imaan and Candice truly represent what it means to be a Supermodel in today’s world. “Not only are they admired for their beauty and style, but they are also revered for their advocacy and philanthropic efforts. These women emulate Drest’s values and are key figureheads for causes that focus on diversity and inclusion, female empowerment, education and the welfare of children. “As a fundamental purpose of Drest is to be a force for good, we have made a pledge to match 50 percent of revenue earned by the Supermodels in-game and donate this to their respective causes.” The charity element forms part of Drest’s social enterprise initiative, which it states includes future plans to donating five percent of every in-game micro-transaction to causes that support diversity and inclusion, digital responsibility, mental health and female empowerment to ensure that the platform is a positive, empowering and inspiring environment. In addition, an end-to-end unique fashion experience will also be possible through a long-term strategic partnership with luxury fashion platform, Farfetch. Users can style, share and shop the fashion items they have competed with - reinforcing the continuous juxtaposition between the classic and unconventional, the real and the virtual. To mark the launch, Drest has commissioned the self-labelled ‘digital obsessive’ creative, Hey Reilly, known for his work with Nike, Fendi, Marc Jacobs, and Moncler, to produce a pop-graphic video that fuses gameplay, fashion and fine art to reveal the Supermodel line-up. The high-energy, surreal visuals illustrate the blurring lines of reality and digital to original music created for Drest by James Lavelle. "> Drest is available for download on the App Store. Images: courtesy of Drest
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Debenhams set to close following failed rescue talks, 12,000 jobs at risk

Debenhams is set to close its stores after last-minute takeover talks fell through, putting some 12,000 jobs at risk. The company’s administrators, FRP Advisory, announced Tuesday it had concluded the initial sale process that was part of their assessment of options for the UK business in administration. Hopes had rested on a last-minute rescue deal from JD Sports, which fell through. Debenhams fell into ‘light touch’ administration back in April. FRP said the outlook for a restructured operation is “highly uncertain” given the current trading environment and the likely prolonged effects of the Covid-19 pandemic. Debenhams to wind down business Debenhams will continue to trade through its 124 UK stores and online to clear its current and contracted stocks. When that’s complete, and “if no alternative offers have been received, the UK operations will close”, FRP said. This will not impact Magasin du Nord in Denmark, which continues to operate independently. “All reasonable steps were taken to complete a transaction that would secure the future of Debenhams. However, the economic landscape is extremely challenging and, coupled with the uncertainty facing the UK retail industry, a viable deal could not be reached,” joint administrator from FRP Geoff Rowley said in a statement. “We are very grateful for the efforts of the management team and staff who have worked so hard throughout the most difficult of circumstances to keep the business trading. We would also like to thank the landlords, suppliers and partners who have continued to work with Debenhams through this turbulent period and can reassure them that all contractual obligations entered into in the administration period will be met in full.” The news comes just a day after Sir Philip Green’s retail empire Arcadia fell into administration, putting 13,000 jobs at risk. The group, which owns brands Topshop, Burton and Dorothy Perkins, said its trading had been “severely impacted” by the Covid-19 pandemic. No redundancies have yet been announced and stores will continue to trade, the company said. Photo credit: FashionUnited
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Foot Locker CFO to step down, search for successor begins

Foot Locker has announced its chief financial officer (CFO) and executive vice president Lauren B. Peters is retiring in April, with a search for a successor now underway. The New York-based footwear retailer said it will consider both internal and external candidates for the position. “Lauren has had a remarkable 23 years at Foot Locker, including leading our finance organization for the last nine years as CFO,” Footlocker CEO and chairman Richard Johnson said in a statement. “With her expertise and leadership, we have built a world-class finance organization and successfully executed a series of strategic initiatives that position Foot Locker to continue driving growth and value creation. Lauren has been an integral member of our management team and a tremendous partner to me.” Peters commented: “I have had a fulfilling career in my more than two decades at Foot Locker, and it has been an honor to work alongside such a talented and dedicated team. I am proud of the Company's many accomplishments during my tenure, the tremendous progress we have made in positioning the Company at the center of youth culture, and the strong team we have built.” Foot Locker has approximately 3,000 retail stores in 27 countries across North America, Europe, Asia, Australia and New Zealand.
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Video: The Fashion Archive discusses designer Demna Gvasalia and his Balenciaga debut

In this video, The Fashion Archive discusses designer Demna Gvasalia and his Balenciaga debut in the brand’s fall/winter 2016 show. Watch the video below. Source: The Fashion Archive via YouTube
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Matchesfashion appoints new chief commercial officer

London-based fashion retailer Matchesfashion has named former global buying director of Yoox Net-A-Porter (YNAP) Group, Elizabeth von der Goltz, as its new chief commercial officer. Von der Goltz has 20 years’ of experience across buying and merchandising roles in the UK and US, and prior to YNAP held the position of senior vice president and general merchandise manager at US department store Bergdorf Goodman. She is the third c-suite hire at Matchesfashion in as many months, following the appointments of Jason Weston as chief operating officer last month and Sean Glithero as chief financial officer in September. Commenting on her appointment in a statement, Von der Goltz said: “I have always admired how Matchesfashion inspires its global customers through a true fashion lens and its ability to showcase so many emerging designers whilst also championing the most important brands today. I look forward to immersing myself in the business, continuing to strengthen our brand partnerships and helping to take the business to the next level.” Matchesfashion CEO Ajay Kavan, who joined the company in February from online giant Amazon, said: “Elizabeth has a breadth of experience and commercial acumen that will help us continue to drive growth by inspiring our customers. “Our aim is to be the best global partner for luxury brands and to continue to forge deep relationships with the world’s most discerning luxury customers. Elizabeth will augment our exceptional leadership team and help get the business ready to scale.” Photo credit: Matchesfashion
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Longchamp president Philippe Cassegrain dies aged 83

Philippe Cassegrain, the president of leather goods manufacturer Longchamp, has died at the age of 83, the group announced in a press release, seen by agency AFP. Cassegrain, who worked at Longchamp for 60 years, died from Covid-19, according to the press release. During his career, he designed the famous Le Pliage bag in 1993, which became one of the best-selling bags in the world. Longchamp was founded in 1948 by Philippe Cassegrain's father. The brand is currently run by Philippe Cassegrain's son, Jean Cassegrain. (AFP) Photo credit: Longchamp, Facebook
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Moss Bros launches CVA proposal

British formalwear brand Moss Bros has launched a company voluntary arrangement (CVA) proposal following a difficult year for the company battling store closures and the cancellation of formal events. The company, which operates from 128 retail stores and employs around 800 staff, is looking to use the CVA to reduce its rents, according to Retail Gazette. No further information has been provided about the CVA, including whether it will impact jobs. “At the outset of the pandemic, we managed to reduce costs and furlough staff in order to survive the first lockdown. There was then a glimmer of hope as we began to re-open some stores in the summer period, but even then trading was severely impacted, footfall was extremely low and sales were substantially down on the previous year,” said Moss Bros CEO Brian Brick, according to Retail Gazette. “With the introduction of further lockdown measures, and with the outlook for trading remaining depressed, the Group now faces no alternative but to try and limit our fixed costs and we have therefore made the tough but essential decision to undertake a CVA in order to protect the future of our business and people.” A difficult year for formalwear Moss Bros called in advisory firm KPMG in August to work on a potential CVA after talks between the brand and its landlords failed to reach an agreement to turn some of its store estates over to turnaround-based rent. In March, Crew Clothing-owner Brigadier Acquisition Company Limited agreed to acquire Moss Bros in a 22.6 million pound deal. However, just weeks after the deal was announced, Brigadier sought a ruling from the Takeover Panel to cancel its offer. Moss Bros successfully opposed the decision, citing a rule in the Takeover Code that states an offer cannot be lapsed or withdrawn “unless circumstances which give rise to the right to invoke the condition are of material significance” in the context of the offer. The formalwear category has been significantly impacted by Covid-19, with the cancellation of large events such as weddings and the Royal Ascot dealing significant blows to sales. A growing number of British fashion companies have launched CVAs in recent months in an effort to mitigate the financial impact of Covid-19, including Clarks, New Look, AllSaints, Bair Group and Monsoon Accessorize. Photo credit: Moss Bros, Facebook
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Slowear opens third U.S. store in Brooklyn

Italian retailer group Slowear, known for carrying brands including Incotex, Zanone, Glanshirt, and Montedoro, has opened their third U.S. store in Williamsburg. This makes it the second store in New York and the first store in Brooklyn. The opening follow’s Slowear’s store opening in Chicago in early October. The expansion in New York will continue with the opening of a storefront in the West Village in early 2021. By 2023, Slowear is expected to expand to the West Coast, with openings planned for Los Angeles and San Francisco. The new Williamsburg store is located on North 3rd Street between Berry Street and Wythe Avenue. The open floor plan showcases product from all of Slowear’s retail partners. The store also features a sitting area around a curated selection of books, men’s skincare, and other lifestyle products. Brick-and-mortar expansion has become a key focus for Slowear, even in the face of a global coronavirus pandemic prompting sporadic lockdowns. In Europe, the German market will also be a top priority with the recent opening of the Hamburg store and additional openings planned over the next three years in Dusseldorf and Berlin. In a statement, Roberto Compagno, CEO of Slowear said, “Our retail expansion plan continues to be a focus for us, despite these difficult and uncertain times, and we are proud to be opening a second location in New York, a city that has welcomed us since we opened Prince Street in 2015. We will continue to focus on an integrated development of our digital platform, slowear.com, with physical stores in an omnichannel perspective.” photo: courtesy of Purple PR
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Balenciaga debuting fall collection via video game

Balenciaga is taking a very unconventional approach to its fall/winter 2021 collection. This time the Kering-owned brand will be showcasing their latest collection via video game. The video game will be called “Afterworld” and will be released on December 6. The game will be set in the year 2031. The clothes will be futuristic inspired. Balenciaga continues to be one of the crown jewels of Kering’s portfolio alongside Gucci. After the coronavirus pandemic, Balenciaga has been rethinking how it shows its collections on the fashion calendar. Typically, December is when brands debut pre-fall collections, but instead Balenciaga is opting to show fall/winter what would typically be two to three months ahead of schedule, as most fall/winter collections debut at Fashion Month from February to early March. photo: via balenciaga.com
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Video: The Fashion Archive shares four fashion YouTubers to watch

In this video, The Fashion Archive highlights four fashion YouTubers to watch in 2021. Watch the video below. Source: The Fashion Archive via YouTube Photo credit: Unsplash
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