Upcoming Jean-Paul Gaultier fashion show to be his last

French designer Jean-Paul Gaultier said Friday that his next Paris haute couture fashion show will be his last. The flamboyant creator said he would be bowing out Wednesday with a big party to mark his 50 years in the business after his latest collection hits the catwalk.

His brand told AFP that his high-end fashion and perfume business would live on, but that Gaultier was stepping back from designing clothes himself. "Rest assured haute couture will continue with a new concept," said the designer, who famously invented the "man skirt" and put Madonna in a conical bra.

The eternal enfant terrible dropped the bombshell in a typically jokey video message, shot as if he was giving an exclusive interview to a reporter over the phone.

Reclining on a chaise longue, he whispered, "Now I am going to give you a scoop. It will be my last couture show. You have to come, you can't miss that... but, but, but, I assure you, Gaultier Paris will go on, the haute couture will continue. "I have a new concept. I will tell you about it later, all the little secrets. To be continued! Kisses, kisses."

67 year-old ready-to-wear turned couture designer to retire

Gaultier, 67, stopped designing ready-to-wear clothes in 2015 to concentrate on haute couture -- extravagant handmade clothes which only the world's richest women can afford.

But as late as last year the maverick insisted that he had no intention of hanging up his scissors -- although he despaired of animal rights activists pressuring him to stop using furs. "I really like the feel of fur," he told AFP, as he confessed that he was wavering about dropping furs from his shows. "We are in an age when there is too much of everything, so we shouldn't be killing animals. I have a charming little pussy, and I love animals, though I draw the line at crocodiles," he said.

While his couture business owned by the Catalan luxury conglomerate Puig was never a huge money maker, his perfumes -- often featuring his impossibly handsome sailors -- continue to be bestsellers. A child fashion prodigy, Gaultier said he starting by making showgirl outfits for his teddy bear.

Former Pierre Cardin assistant rises to fame in the 80s

He was personal assistant to French fashion magnate Pierre Cardin at 18, and rose to fame in the 1980s alongside designers like Thierry Mugler when the Paris fashion scene was at its most decadent.

Gaultier then carved out a parallel television career as the co-presenter of a cheeky series, "Eurotrash". He was also the industry's jester in chief. In a world riddled with snobbery and pretension, he had the common touch -- poking fun at himself and fashion's myriad follies.

In 2018, he staged his own hit cabaret show based loosely on his life story called "Fashion Freak Show", at the Folies Bergere theatre in Paris. The Guardian hailed it as "a fabulous fiesta of fabric and flesh" when it transferred to London last year.

It included a key moment that was to change his life -- the first time he laid eyes on a corset in his grandmother's wardrobe. He traced his fascination to corsetry and bondage to that moment -- and both would be recurring motifs in a career also replete with leather togas and tutus, feathers and all sorts of outsiders and freaks.

Hugely-loved within the fashion world, Gaultier pioneered using plus-sized models and welcomed "all shapes sizes and sexualities" on his catwalk. A spokeswoman for his brand told AFP the designer would be back, but like the veteran Japanese creator Kenzo -- who has moved into interior design -- it would be in other areas.(AFP)

Photo : Jean-Paul Gaultier AW19, Catwalkpictures

* This article was originally published here

Kenzo comes out of retirement for a new kind of designing

He could be sipping cocktails in his silk slippers yet fashion legend Kenzo is back at the age of 80.

But the Japanese creator is not diving back into the frenzied world of catwalk shows.

Instead he will be throwing himself into the more sedate world of interior design Friday by launching a brand called K3.

Kenzo sold his hugely successful clothing and perfume label -- and the right to use his name -- to the luxury giant LVMH in 1993 and left fashion six years later.

Since then, he has collaborated on a number of different projects, but told AFP that he has missed the buzz of working for his own brand.

"Twenty years ago I wanted to travel and I didn't want to work any more," said the pioneering designer, who made his breakthrough on the Paris scene in the early 1970s.

But for his comeback, he wanted to do something more "timeless" than clothes, and came up with K3, whose logo is written in Japanese with three horizontal strokes.

Interior design allows more freedom than fashion

By doing interior design, Kenzo would not be tied to the infernal fashion rhythm of at least four shows a year.

"With clothes, you always have to be in the collections, it needs more organisation, workshops and all that. I don't want to work like that anymore," he told AFP in his large luminous studio in the centre of Paris.

Design is "really about the art of living", he added.

The first of the furniture, carpets, wallpaper, ceramics, household linen and bathrooms designed by Kenzo will be presented Friday at a Parisian home show and in a new K3 boutique in the French capital on the same day.

All his creations carry a "kintsugi" symbol in honour of the Japanese art of repairing broken porcelain and ceramics with lacquer mixed with powdered gold.

'I like dreaming'

For Kenzo, this technique from the 15th century "makes the object even more beautiful" and fits perfectly with the contemporary concern of recycling.

His creative assistant Engelbert Honorat said the technique embodies "the Japanese art of honouring something whilst remaining simple."

The collection is organised around three themes, Kenzo said.

His "Shogun" items represent masculinity and are sober and solemn, dominated by black and white.

"Sakura" is about harmony and tranquility and includes a few gold notes in its subtle pastel palette, while the "Maiko" range is in vivid red and pink, paying tribute to the kimonos and make-up of young geishas, he said.

One of the pieces that stands out in Kenzo's first collection is a low-rimmed table with a hole in the middle which can be filled with water for various uses.

Petals can be left to float on the surface, or it can be used as a vase in a tribute to the Japanese art of flower arrangement, "ikebana", said Kenzo.

"Our ideal interior is one of comfort which tempts you to stay inside. I like something that is soft and poetic, not aggressive. I like dreaming," he said.(AFP)

Photo: Michell Zappa on Flickr

* This article was originally published here

Frank and Oak announces new 2022 sustainability targets

Montreal-based fashion and lifestyle brand Frank And Oak has announced new 2022 sustainability goals which include offsetting greenhouse gasses and eliminating virgin plastics and polyesters.

The brand, which received B-Corp certification in September, said it hopes to reduce its impact on the planet by putting an emphasis on utilizing recycled materials and harnessing renewable energy sources and carbon offsets.

By 2022, the brand aims to cut all virgin plastic in its supply chain - it already uses 100 percent compostable, plant-based bags for shipping - and eliminate virgin plastics, instead only using recycled polyester fibres to make shell fabrics, labels, and trims.

The company also aims to offset 100 percent of its greenhouse gas (GHG) scope 1 emissions and have its headquarters, warehouse and retail stores run on 100 percent renewable energy, while new facilities will be installed with green energy sources, water meters, and waste management systems.

Additionally, the brand will encourage a 'zero-waste philosophy' - continuing to work with local partners to use furniture that is either second-hand or sustainably made in all its stores and its headquarters. The brand will also provide employees with training, zero-waste challenge initiatives, and reusable materials.

Commenting on the new initiatives in a statement, Frank And Oak's CEO and co-founder Ethan Song, said: "The climate crisis is an issue that is deeply important to us at Frank And Oak. Over the last few years, we have been able to be nimble and agile to adapt our business practices to better serve our planet, and as well, our customers.

"Though we have made significant strides, we recognize that there is still so much we need to do as the climate crisis continues to worsen. This is why we have set such ambitious goals, to remain accountable to ourselves, our customers and our communities."

Read more:

• Frank And Oak launch Circular denim method

Photo credit: Frank and Oak, Facebook

* This article was originally published here

Viktor & Rolf steps back into menswear

Dutch luxury fashion house Viktor & Rolf is relaunching a menswear collection five years after closing its ready-to-wear business.

The collection, called Mister Mister, is a playful take on formalwear and an extension of the personal style of the house’s founders Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren. The intimate collection of around 130 pieces mixes sharp tailoring with casual wear and features a myriad of textured patchworks and prints.

“The collection embraces the modern dandy as a form of self-expression,” the brand said in a release, describing looks that pay homage to “an underlying sense of humour and irony through quirky conversational prints inspired by dandy narratives.”

It comprises top hats as either blown up or in micro patterns, classic suits crafted in playful patterns and casual garments featuring formal detailing, while vibrant colours are infused with classic masculine tones.

In 2015, the fashion house discontinued its women’s and men’s collections. “What we noticed with the ready-to-wear shows that we did for men and women was that there was always a discrepancy between what people wanted to see from us and then in the end what people wanted to buy, and so we feel that there’s more honesty in doing it the way we want to approach it now,” Snoeren told WWD.

“In general, we just have a problem with the industrial process, like sending drawings to a factory and then seeing what comes back, and ordering fabrics that we’ve never seen in colours that we’ve never seen. This collection is much more focused.”

The collection, which according to WWD will be in stores at wholesale partners of the fashion house from July, sees Viktor & Rolf enter into a worldwide licensing and production partnership with Shiffon Co., Ltd. based in Tokyo, Japan.

Read more:

• Aubade collaborates with Viktor&Rolf

Photos courtesy of the brand

* This article was originally published here

First look: Jennifer Lopez for Guess, Inc. Spring 2020 campaign

Guess, Inc. has revealed the face of its latest campaign: Jennifer Lopez. The multifaceted cultural icon returns to the company for the Spring 2020 advertising campaign of Guess and Marciano worldwide.

“Whenever I do a collaboration, I always think of a character that I can play and be and we had a lot of fun doing that with this campaign,” Lopez shared in a statement. “The vibe this time was a mix between an Italian film star from the ‘60s, mixed with Madonna from the ‘80s, mixed with Sofia Loren…The clothes and setting of the shoot really worked well together to make this campaign come to life.”

The campaign, directed by the chief creative officer of Guess, Inc., Paul Marciano, highlights the actor’s iconic brand and the characters Lopez described.

“I am thrilled to welcome Jennifer back for a second campaign with Guess and Marciano,” Marciano said. "Jennifer continues to push boundaries in the music, fashion and film industries and represents everything a Guess Girl is—confident, sensual and adventurous."

Images: Courtesy of Guess, Inc.

* This article was originally published here

Crocs raises Q4 forecast, expects 13 percent rise in full year revenues

Crocs, Inc. raising its revenue guidance for the fourth quarter ended December 31, 2019 said, it now expects revenue to be between 260 and 262 million dollars, up from its previous guidance range of 245 to 255 million dollars and compared to 216 million dollars in the fourth quarter of 2018. With respect to 2019, the company expects revenues to grow approximately 13 percent over 2018 revenues of 1,088.2 million dollars. With respect to 2020 revenues, the company continues to expect 12 percent to 14 percent growth over 2019 revenues.

“We delivered the strongest fourth quarter in Crocs’ history,” said Andrew Rees, President and Chief Executive Officer of Crocs, adding, “Our positive brand momentum allowed us to deliver strong DTC growth combined with excellent wholesale sell through. Our projected fourth quarter results represent a strong finish to a record year and we anticipate building on our 2019 growth trajectory in 2020.”

Full year adjusted gross margin is expected to be approximately 51 percent, excluding non-recurring charges of approximately 100 basis points associated with the company’s new US distribution centre. On a GAAP basis, gross margin is expected to be approximately 50 percent. Adjusted operating margin is forecasted to be approximately 11 percent, excluding non-recurring charges of approximately 100 basis points associated with the company’s new US distribution centre and certain SG&A costs. On a GAAP basis, operating margin is expected to be approximately 10 percent.

Picture:Facebook/Crocs

* This article was originally published here

Interview: American Vintage's Audrey Lankester, Head of AMV Camp

INTERVIEW Established in 2005 by a young entrepreneur from Marseille, Michaël Azoulay, American Vintage is known for their trademark style of casual cuts and a nuanced colour range. Today, the American Vintage head office spans 2,200 square metres and 4,000 square metres of warehouse space as well as outdoor facilities. Located in the Signe business park, it is forty minutes away from Marseille, situated on top of a plateau overlooking a cirque of hills all the while surrounded by a pine forest. FashionUnited recently interviewed Audrey Lankester by email, the Head of AMV Camp, on the unique use of the vast space for AMV employees and the brand’s vision for the future.

What is the AMV Camp?

The AMV Camp is the guideline for the brand and is a team of 15 American Vintage devotees who recruit, maintain, integrate and inform. We keep in mind the will to create a strong recruitment and training pool, more importantly to preserve a common ground where history, and human and social values of AMV is respected and worked upon. The camp is our new challenge, and it motivates us all equally because we can express ourselves on what we love: the product & being human.

How did you become the Head of AMV Camp?

I’ve been the Head of the AMV Camp since the beginning of 2019 and was previously Head of Sales of Global Europe retail for American Vintage for 8 years. I opened more than 110 points of sales in Europe, elaborating the retail process for AMV and recruiting commercial teams.

I started my journey at the very beginning of the brand, I had just come back from two years as the Head of Marketing Experience for the woman’s lingerie brand, I.D. Sarrieri. I lived in Paris, then in eastern Europe. After ten years, I wanted to come back to my roots which is Marseille, hence I chose to face this new challenge.

What do you love about your job?

What drives me is that team dynamic, bringing everyone together in a goal fulfilment mindset.

What is your goal for AMV Camp?

Today, we have more than 800 collaborators, tomorrow we aim to have even more affiliates and new openings; our main role is to keep the same energy, values as well as the fresh & dynamic mindset of the house which made us all at a certain point want to be part of this journey.

Can you tell us how AMV Camp functions?

AMV Camp is positioned on three different angles:

• 1) #THIS IS US
is the communication & the marketing of our teams, putting forward our front & back collaborators, which is taking care of our LinkedIn network & the branding that is made around it along with the exchange/gateway with business and fashion/art schools in general. Our collections are known & desirable and we wish to have the same reputation for our company.

• 2) #JOIN US AMV CAMP
is the recruitment process & an integration which respects the house etiquette. This includes the following: Choice- follow up of CVs and analysis, thanks to a performing tool. AMV’s Recruitment Policy. Team of recruitment experts that are focused on the training.

• 3) #GROWING TOGETHER AMV CAMP
is the training program of teams with the integration program #ONBOARDING AMV CAMP. The success of recruitment is at 50 percent during the collaborator’s integration in the company. A good integration is a certain involvement and motivation degree from the collaborator and focuses on loyalty.

Finally, the AMV Camp is the Research & Development of AMV, pilot projects and best practices. We are all involved: Trainers, Commercial Agents, Merchandisers collaborate on ideas and projects for the field must flourish. AMV Camp is a collaborative project, with each and everyone’s expertise benefiting one another other.

This interview was created in cooperation with American Vintage to promote working in fashion.

Photos: courtesy of American Vintage, SimplyPR

* This article was originally published here