British trans modelling pioneer April Ashley died at age 86

April Ashley, a British model and actress who was a pioneering figure in the fight for trans rights, has died at 86, local media reported Wednesday. Ashley was one of the first British people known to have undergone gender reassignment surgery, although she only gained full legal recognition as a woman in the UK in 2005. She was honoured by Queen Elizabeth II who awarded her an MBE (Member of the British Empire) in 2012 for services to the transgender community and activist Peter Tatchell wrote that she was "the great trans trailblazer for decades". Ashley was born George Jamieson in 1935 in the port city of Liverpool in northwestern England. From an early age, she felt that her birth gender of male was wrong and she was severely bullied and beaten by her mother. She briefly served in the Merchant Navy and had treatment at a psychiatric hospital. She found greater acceptance when she moved to London and then Paris, where she began performing at the Caroussel de Paris, the city's first transgender revue. She underwent sex-change surgery in Morocco in 1960 aged 25, taking the name April Ashley, reflecting the month of her birth. The UK accepted her new identity and gave her papers allowing her to gain a passport and driving licence. She became a successful model, photographed for Vogue and appeared in a film with US star Bob Hope called "Road to Hong Kong". But her sex change later caused a public scandal after it was revealed in a tabloid. She wed a British aristocrat, Arthur Corbett, in 1963 in Gibraltar, but their marriage swiftly broke up. To avoid paying maintenance payments, Corbett applied to annul their marriage. A court in 1970 famously ruled that the marriage was void because Ashley was male, even though Corbett knew her history. This led to Ashley facing public attacks. She spent a period running a London restaurant and moved to the US. She returned to the UK in 2005, after the passing of the Gender Recognition Act that allowed her to be fully recognised as a woman. Her life was celebrated with a 2013 exhibition in her home city of Liverpool titled "April Ashley: Portrait of a Lady". Her friends included the former Labour Party deputy leader John Prescott. Tributes came from friends including French transgender performer Marie-Pierre Pruvot, who wrote on Facebook of her death on Monday: "A little bit of me is going away." "She had airs of a Queen and crazy humour, tremendous liveliness", Pruvot added. British pop star Boy George posted on Twitter a photograph he had taken of Ashley, calling her "such an inspiration to my generation and beyond!"(AFP)
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Barbour remains profitable despite drop in full-year sales

Image: Barbour Barbour has reported strong profit in the year to April 30 despite a 10.2 percent drop in sales. The British brand’s turnover decreased to 218 million pounds from 242.8 million pounds a year earlier as the pandemic took its toll on the business. “The impact of the Covid-19 pandemic was felt significantly throughout the year, with revenues and absolute margins down compared to the prior year,” the company said. It continued: “With uncertainty across global markets very high and competition for dwindling demand intense, the marketplace was very difficult to navigate profitably without significant focus on appropriate cost reduction and investment in strong relationships across the end to end product life cycle.” Barbour remains profitable But the brand managed to increase its pre-tax profit to 36.3 million pounds from 35.8 million pounds a year earlier. Its net profit dropped slightly to 27.9 million pounds from 28.9 million pounds. The company said its profitability “represents a steady performance”. It added that, “despite the challenges of the pandemic”, its balance sheet remains “relatively strong”, with cash held in the business reducing to 95.4 million pounds from 97.4 million pounds a year earlier. It said the cash would allow it to “focus on protecting customer service, our long-term objectives and partnerships, investing for the future sustainability of our brands and the trust in our business ethos.”
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CEO and founder of Perfect Corp Alice Chang recognised by Tech Trailblazers Awards

Image: Tech Trailblazers Awards Alice Chang, the CEO and Founder of Perfect Corp., an artificial intelligence and augmented reality beauty and fashion tech solutions provider, has been recognised as a top female leader in tech at the Tech Trailblazers Awards. The Tech Trailblazers Awards are aimed at small businesses that are under seven years old, and at C-series funding or below. During this year’s Tech Trailblazers Awards, Chang was recognised in the Female CxO Trailblazers classification. The award goes to those who demonstrate key leadership qualities such as driving innovation, promoting diversity and encouraging agile practices. “It is an honour to be recognised by Tech Trailblazers in the Female CxO Category,” said Chang. “At Perfect Corp., our goal is to solve consumer pain problems through AI and AR digital tech innovations, and we look forward to driving further advancement in beauty and fashion tech, and help brands leverage the opportunities created by the metaverse.” Perfect Corp. has helped brands to establish an omnichannel presence, and focuses on using AI and AR powered solutions to transform retail experiences. This includes virtual try on for beauty and fashion products and skin diagnostics powered by AIs.
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Top Ten Male Runway Models 2021: In Pictures

Dior Homme FW22/Catwalk Pictures The F/W 22 Menswear Collections start next month. These are the top 10 models we hope to see walking the runways. Babacar N'doye Givenchy SS22/Catwalk Pictures Nationality: British Agency: Elite World Instagram @thankyoubabacar: Followers: 3K Recent Campaigns and Editorial: Boss F/W 21; Cos S/S 21; Dior S/S 21; Shows Walked in 2021 included: Dior Men's Pre-Fall 22; Givenchy S/S 22; Hermès S/S 22 Men's; Zadig & Voltaire S/S 22; AMI Paris S/S 22; Valentino Haute Couture F/W 21. Braien Vaiksaar Givenchy FW21/Catwalk Pictures Nationality: Estonian Agency: Success Models Instagram: @braien.vaiksaar: Followers: 7K Recent Campaigns and Editorial: Balmain S/S 2021 Campaign; H Magazine 'Don’t Forget About Me' Shows Walked in 2021 included: Givenchy S/S 22; Balmain S/S 22; Hermès F/W 21 Men's Malick Bodian Lanvin SS22/Catwalk Pictures Nationality: Senegalese/Italian Agency: The Claw Instagram: @Malickbodi: Followers: 27K Recent Campaigns and Editorial: GQ Style Germany Fall 21 Cover; Swarovski Collection 2 Fall 2021 Campaign; American Vogue editorial 'Give Me The Night;' Shows Walked in 2021 included: Dior Men Pre-Fall 22; Louis Vuitton 'Virgil Was Here' S/S 22; Lanvin S/S; Dries Van Noten S/S 22 Digital Show Alpha Dia Dries Van Noten FW21/Catwalk Pictures Nationality: Senegalese Agency: Modelwerk Instagram: @alpha_dia_ :Followers: 38K Recent Campaigns and Editorial: Polo Ralph Lauren for Zalando campaign: 'Weekend reload;' Arket V Man 'Time of Your Life' Shows Walked in 2021 included: Isabel Marant S/S 22; Boss; S/S Dries Van Noten F/W 21 Men's Taemin Park Haider Ackermann FW20/Catwalk Pictures Nationality: South Korean Agency: Gost Instagram @txxmini : Followers: 113K Recent Campaigns and Editorial: M Le magazine du Monde editorial; GQ Korea 'Color Madness;' W Korea 'The Control' Shows Walked in 2021 included: Ann Demeulemeester S/S 22; Salvatore Ferragamo S/S 22; Hermès S/S 22 Men's; Louis Vuitton S/S 22 Men's; Leon Dame Givenchy SS22/Catwalk Pictures Nationality: German Agency: London/Viva London Instagram @leondame Followers: 11.7K Recent Campaigns and Editorial: L'Uomo Vogue 'Leading Lady;' L'Uomo Vogue December 2021 Covers Shows Walked in 2021 included: Louis Vuitton 'Virgil Was Here' S/S 22; Lanvin S/S 22 Show; Givenchy S/S 22 Yura Nakano Dior Homme FW22/Catwalk Pictures Nationality: Japanese/Taiwanese Agency: Paris/Banana Models; London/Milk Management; Milan CREW Model Management Instagram: @ yrnkn__ :Followers: 7K Recent Campaigns and Editorial: Ermenegildo Zegna’s F/W21 campaign Shows Walked in 2021 included: Dior Men's Pre-Fall 22; Balmain S/S 22 Show; Hermès S/S 22 Men's Jeremiah Berko Fourdjour Valentino FW20/Catwalk Pictures Nationality: Italian/ Ghanaian Agency: Supa Model Management Instagram: @JeremiahBerko :Followers 5,631 Recent Campaigns and Editorial: L'Officiel Italia: Erin x Amanda Harlech Shows Walked in 2021 included: Dior Men's Pre-Fall 22; Louis Vuitton 'Virgil Was Here' S/S 22; Roberto Cavalli S/S 22 Show; Jonas Glöer Hermes FW2021/Catwalk Pictures Nationality: German Agency: Viva London Instagram: @ jonasgloeer :Followers 21K Recent Campaigns and Editorial: Holiday Magazine 'Meet Me In Prenzlauer Berg;' V Man 'Midwinter Fantasy' Shows Walked in 2021 included: Louis Vuitton 'Virgil Was Here' S/S 22; Lanvin S/S 22; Isabel Marant S/S 22; Xu Meen Balmain SS22/Catwalk Pictures Nationality: South Korean Agency: IMG Models Worldwide Instagram: @xumeen :Followers 27K Recent Campaigns and Editorial: COS x Mok Jungwook Campaign 2021; GQ Korea Editorial Shows Walked in 2021 included: Isabel Marant S/S 22; Balmain S/S 22; Salvatore Ferragamo S/S 22;
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Kid's subscription service Kidpik reports increase in Q3 revenue

Image: Kidpik, Facebook Kidpik, an online clothing subscription service for children, has reported a 20.3 percent increase in revenue in the third quarter of the year. In the three months to October 2, revenue increased to 5.57 million dollars compared to 4.63 million dollars a year earlier. CEO Ezra Dabah said the increase in revenue was driven “mainly by the introduction of boys’ subscription boxes, the continued growth of our girls’ subscriptions and the newly introduced toddler box collection”. Meanwhile, Kidpik’s Gross Margin was 58.2 percent compared to 59.3 percent in the third quarter of 2020. The company reported a net loss of 1.19 million dollars compared to a loss of 0.98 million dollars a year earlier. The trading update comes after Kidpik launched an 18 million dollar IPO in November. Dabah continued: “Strengthening our balance sheet gives us the ability to make further investments in building our brand, growing our revenue, and driving shareholder value. “We look forward to achieving our growth objectives by leveraging our merchandising expertise, the technology we have built, and the knowledge our team has gained over the last five years in the rapidly growing subscription industry.”
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Gucci and The North Face plan pop-up shops

Image: Gucci Gucci is continuing its second round of collaboration with The North Face and this time the brands are planning more pop-up shops together. The new campaign for the second installment of their collaboration has debuted today, and was photographed and directed by the Durimel twins, Jalan and Jibril. Christopher Simmons art directed the campaign, Thomes De Kluyver was the makeup artist, and Andrea Martinelli was the hairstylist. The campaign was shot in Iceland. Beginning next month, Gucci and the North Face will be opening pop-up shops from January 11 to January. Current announced locations include Aspen, Chicago, and Toronto. This new collaboration uses Econyl, a nylon fiber made from regenerated materials, as part of Gucci’s commitment to becoming more sustainable. The down insulation for coats meets the standards for the Responsible Down Standard by Control Union. The paper and cardboard used for packaging comes from sustained managed forest sources.
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Stella McCartney reports drop in 2020 sales, but sees signs of recovery

Image: Stella McCartney British luxury label Stella McCartney had a tough time in 2020 due to the pandemic, but has since seen signs of recovery, according to its most recent filings at Companies House. The brand reported sales of 28.4 million pounds in the 12 months to December 2020, a 26 percent drop compared to a year earlier, as lockdowns and store closures impacted the business. The company made a loss after tax of 30.4 million pounds, a slight improvement on the loss of 33.5 million pounds it made a year earlier. The brand said it continued to be impacted by the pandemic at the beginning of 2021, during the national lockdown. Signs of recovery The company said its sales recovery since the beginning of the year has been broadly in line with expectations. Looking ahead, it aims to increase its 2021 sales by 4 percent year-on-year and to “significantly” reduce its operating loss. Despite that, the company said the outlook for 2021 “remains uncertain” and is “very much dependent on the global health and economic context”. The brand said it does not believe Brexit will have a “significant” impact on the business. Currently, less than 5 percent of global revenue comes through the company’s UK brick and mortar stores dependant on cross border movement of goods to the UK.
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Shoppers shun London on Boxing Day as footfall plummets 67 percent

Image: Selfridges As a queues of shoppers snaked around Selfridges on Oxford Street, eagerly hoping to score a Boxing Day bargain, the rest of central London was eerily quiet, with footfall down 67.3 percent in comparison to 2019, before the pandemic. Figures from Springboard show a similar fate across all UK retail destinations, with footfall down an average of -45.2 percent below the 2019 level. Despite the cold weather, high streets faired better than shopping centres, with -35.6 percent compared to -59.8 percent. The trend amongst shoppers for staying local has been a key characteristic all the way through the pandemic which has heightened once again in the past few weeks with the surge of the omicron variant which threatened so many Christmases across the UK, remains prevalent. Footfall in market towns up to 12pm on Boxing Day was just -12.6 percent below the 2019 level and -7.4 percent below 2019 in Outer London. Covid restrictions impact shoppers New Covid restrictions came into force in Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland on Boxing Day as the nations try to halt the surge in infections. This would have an impact on the number of shoppers hitting the sales. Northern Ireland footfall plummeted 73 percent, with Wales seeing a 63 percent decline and almost 50 percent lower in Scotland compared to 2019. Despite the drop, large queues formed outside the Trafford Centre in Manchester with shoppers waiting since 8am, reported the Evening Stands, while bargain hunters also lined up outside Primark in Birmingham and Zara in Bristol. Diane Wehrle, Insights Director at Springboard commented: “A major reason for the significantly lower footfall compared with 2019 will be due to consumers and ongoing nervousness about the Covid infection rate. This will have been compounded by the fact that a few multiple retailers opted not to open today, which will have deterred some shoppers. In addition, Sunday generally has the lowest footfall on any day in the week, so a comparison with 2019 when Boxing Day fell on a Thursday will always have meant that footfall would be lower than two years ago. Despite this, the fact that most multiple retailers still opened their doors to shoppers, and the mild weather should have meant that it was easy for shoppers to visit stores and destinations still did not encourage shoppers out to shop.”
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Zara invests in 238 million euro headquarters

Image: Zara Zara has invested 238 million euros into a new headquarters that will house the Zara sales and design teams within Inditex’s complex in Arteixo. Construction on the new headquarters will begin in January, subject to the necessary permissions, and are expected to last around two years. The new facilities, which are being designed with a focus on their lines, broad open spaces, energy efficiency, and sustainability credentials, are meant to reinforce the horizontal work dynamics between designers, patternmakers, and sales professionals, underpinned by creativity and articulated around open collaboration and communication. The new five-story building (with another two underground floors for parking) will complement the visual identity of the adjacent offices, which accommodate the zara.com operations. Zara to get multi-million euro headquarters in Artexio The building will be predominantly white and feature large horizontal windows with protruding eaves to provide protection from the sun while flooding the interiors with natural light. A structural trellis will introduce pillars generating huge open spaces that will further facilitate the dynamic workflows between the various departments. The plans, designed by Batlleiroig, the architecture firm which was responsible for the recent expansion of Zara’s facilities in Arteixo and several of the brands’ head offices, is based on an orderly and structured design of flexible workspaces that lend themselves to easy and multiple reconfigurations. The proportions and dimensions of this huge building give it a ‘shape coefficient’ which, together with its highly insulated façades and roofing, reduce its energy consumption and facilitate energy self-sufficiency, thanks to energy just taken from three new wind turbines located in Coruña’s Outer Port. The new building will be fitted with a next-generation facility management system to ensure that its various elements always operate in efficient harmony, adapting them continuously in response to indoor and outdoor temperatures and air quality. By using technology in the design phase, the impact of the construction process will be minimized in the interest of sustainability. That industrialization, coupled with intensive use of recycled materials, will reduce the works’ carbon footprint and waste generation. It will comply with the stringent requirements of the sustainable building benchmark US Green Building Council (USGBC) –and Zara hopes to achieve its highest certification, LEED Platinum. Each of the sales teams’ floors will have two large, connected work areas. Two big longitudinal outdoor areas adjacent to the east and north façades will add to the existing square outside the dotcom building, promoting users’ health and wellbeing, in keeping with the strategy embarked on at Inditex’s headquarters in 2018 of upgrading and integrating the complex’s outdoor spaces. A grid of walkways will connect various parts of the new building with the adjacent buildings to ensure internal connectivity at the complex and optimal interaction between the various departments.
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Iconic retailer Selfridges sold to Thai and Austrian joint venture

Image: Selfridges via Pexels The Canadian billionaire family behind the revamp of Selfridges have sold the iconic department store to a Thai and Austrian joint venture. The Weston family sold the British store chain to Thai conglomerate Central Group and Austrian Signa Holding, who each own 50 percent. The group’s other retail division, which includes Arnotts and Brown Thomas in Ireland and de Bijenkorf in the Netherlands were included in the deal. Holt Refrew, the high-end Canadian department store chain, will remain under Weston ownership. Value of the sale not disclosed The sale, confirmed by Bloomberg early on Friday, is thought to be valued at 4 billion pounds, although terms of the sale were not disclosed. Galen Weston bought the Oxford street flagship in 2003 for 600 million pounds. The Central Group is Thailand’s largest retail operator, owned by the wealthy Chirathivat family. The Group’s international portfolio includes Italy’s Rinascente, Denmark’s Illum, Germany’s KaDeWe and Globus in Switzerland. The latter two are owned in partnership with Signa. Signa, a retail, real estate and media group, has assets in New York’s Art Deco Chrysler Building and Hotel Bauer in Venice. The company’s global real estate assets are valued at over 24 billion euros said the Financial Times. Selfridges, which outright owns the properties of its UK stores, remains one of London’s most sought after fashion destinations, a temple of experiential retailing that many have tried, and failed, to copy. “As family businesses, Central and Signa will focus on delivering exceptional and inclusive store and digital experiences for both local residents and overseas visitors alike, as we seek to create a world-leading luxury, retail company,” said Tos Chirathivat, executive chair and chief executive of Central Group in a statement. Selfridges was founded in 1908 by American businessman Harry Gordon Selfridge. His story was filmed for a television miniseries in 2016 called Mr Selfridge. The Selfridge Group currently operates 28 stores worldwide. Changes in management have not been announced.
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Adore Me launches technology brand for operating platform

Image: Adore Me Lingerie label Adore Me has introduced a new technology group, Adore Me Tech, developed to build upon the Adore Me Operating Platform. Considering themselves both a data-driven technology brand and a lingerie brand, Adore Me stated that it follows a belief that “technology must be embedded into any and every business function”. The Adore Me Tech launch involves the use of proprietary software and technology that can be used in the expansion into new markets, products and business models. The brand’s current operating platform utilises 15 internal tools, developed to support solutions for current and short-term business challenges. Examples of the tools include a scale-up procurement inventory management system, a product order tool, subscription box method and a product creation tool. “We hypothesise that as the world around us continues to change, we’ll need to change the way we approach our planning, automation and policies,” said Romain Liot, co-founder and chief operating officer, in a release. “The right framework will be our catalyst in business growth, and the Adore Me Operating Platform is a huge step in the right direction.”
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Selfridges could close four billion pound deal with Thailand Central Group

Image: Selfridges Luxury department store Selfridges is reportedly close to closing a four billion pound deal with Thailand’s Central Group, with an official announcement supposedly to come in a matter of days. Word on the acquisition has been floating around since the start of December, following a report by The Times that stated the current owners of the retailer, Canada’s Weston family, had agreed on terms with Central Group in November. Following the report, an associate from a retail subsidiary of the firm denied the news, stating at the time: “The company would like to clarify that the company is not currently involved with the transaction reported in the news.” Reports yet to be confirmed New information issued by Reuters has now come to light, with source’s close to the media platform stating a deal is on the verge of closing. According to the publication, the Thai group’s main department store unit, Central Retail Corp Pcl, could potentially take a partial stake in Selfridges, however was still mulling the offer. Additionally, The Times also reported on the possible finalisation of the acquisition, further announcing that Central Group had possibly linked with Austria’s Signa Group for the deal. Both Central Group and Selfridges have not yet responded to requests for comment, at this time. Speculation regarding the sale has been growing since initial reports in June, which suggested the family had already received a four billion pound takeover offer for its UK properties. The Weston’s took over the retailer back in 2003, for 598 million pounds, driven by Galen Weston, who died in April this year.
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PETA renews action against LVMH with new investigation

Image: LVMH People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) has revealed a new investigation into the LVMH supply chain, exposing concerning conditions of animals used for some of the brand’s products. The luxury conglomerate, which owns the likes of Dior and Celine, has been called out by the Asian branch of the animal welfare group for the conditions at two of its Indonesian slaughterhouses, at which a number of workers were filmed bashing live snakes with hammers. In the disturbing video, pythons were shown hung up and filled with water in order to stretch their skin out. They are then stunned with a hammer and decapitated while still alive, according to the organisation. According to Dr. Clifford Warrick, a reptile expert that reviewed the footage, the method is considered “inhumane and unacceptable by international standards” and “would result in extreme stress and pain in the snakes.” In 2016, LVMH was already targeted by PETA, with an investigation into crocodile and ostrich farms linked as suppliers to the fashion house. Footage obtained by the organisation unveiled distressing conditions the animals were housed in, as well as cruel methods of slaughter endured. The organisation is urging LVMH to immediately cease selling exotic skins altogether, concluding: “Rather than exploring lush jungles and swamps and experiencing all the sensory pleasures that they’re so keenly attuned to, those in LVMH’s supply chain are abused and tormented just to make purses and shoes.”
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Kate Hudson transitions to advisory role for Fabletics

Image: Fabletics Activewear brand Fabletics has announced that co-founder Kate Hudson will be transitioning from principal face of the brand to an advisory role, eight years on from the brand’s founding. The announcement comes as the company looks towards “its next chapter and continued growth”, with Hudson to continue bringing her expertise as a strategic director, as well as remaining as a shareholder in the company. “When we first started out, the challenge was to build a successful company which filled the void in the market for premium quality, fashion-forward activewear at affordable prices, while staying true to our social values of inclusivity and community building,” said Huson, in a release. “As my role becomes less focused on being in front of the camera to becoming more of a strategic advisor, my passion for and investment in our mission is as strong as day one.” The company has recently executed an expansion in Europe, following the opening of its London and Berlin stores. It also looks to continue growing its omnichannel offering through in-store technologies and digitised fitting room experiences. In addition to Fabletics, Hudson has continued to drive start-ups, including, nutritional powder brand, In Bloom and King St. Vodka.
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Informa Markets Fashion Announces Edwina Kulego in New Leadership Role

Edwina Kulego. Image courtesy of Informa Markets Informa Markets Fashion, the host of international fashion trade and sourcing events including Project, Magic, and Coterie, has established a new role at the company entitled Vice President of International and Business Development. Appointed to the position charged with managing sponsorships, new business opportunities, and international development is Edwina Kulego, who returns to IMF after overseeing all aspects of business at Liberty Fairs, the contemporary fashion and lifestyle trade show. In commenting on her new role, Kulego expressed delight in re-joining the company where she began her career and acknowledged the importance of solidarity during these unpredictable times. “The world as we know it has changed significantly over the past two years and the importance of strengthening and supporting our global community is even more imperative,” she said. Kulego, who started at Project as an intern and worked her way up, can draw on a decade of leadership experience within the industry as she focuses her team on growing the company globally through new markets, strategic projects, and expanding both live and digital events. Prior to her time at Liberty, she worked to create the first International Business Development Department at Informa Markets in 2016, proceeded to launch what would become the first Project Tokyo, and has demonstrated expertise in advancing omnichannel solutions for the fashion B2B industry. In addition to her work traveling the world to make meaningful partnerships in fashion, Kulego founded her own makeup company in 2017 as another way to generate a positive impact. Essentials By Edwina, is a vegan, cruelty-free beauty brand designed for women of color to help balance the lack of diversity in the beauty industry.
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Controversial fast fashion retailer Shein launches 10 million dollar support fund

Image: Shein Shein, the controversial fast fashion retailer headquartered in Guangzhou, has launched a 10 million dollar fund to support global non-profit organizations focused on empowering entrepreneurs, supporting underserved communities, ensuring animal welfare, and promoting the circular economy.  While Shein has been criticised for not being transparent regarding any of these pillars in its own supply chain, where it often drops 1,000 styles per day at rock-bottom prices, the company is keen to be seen ‘doing good.’ In a press release Shein announced the first recipient of its funding as Vital Voices, a global NGO that invests in female leaders, to provide support with a two-year 500,000 dollar partnership. Other causes are yet to be announced. “Women’s participation in every sector is more critical than ever and changemakers in Vital Voices’ network are charting a new course for women’s leadership. We are thrilled to partner with Shein as they invest in women with strong roots in community, bold ideas that bridge divides and a strong commitment to paying it forward,” said Alyse Nelson, President and Chief Executive Officer of Vital Voices Global Partnership. “Empowering individuals and giving back to those in need has been part of our company DNA since day one,” said Molly Miao, Chief Marketing Officer at SHEIN. “Organizations like Vital Voices are critical given the challenges of inequity globally, and the reinforcement of barriers to economic development. In addition to our partners at Vital Voices, we hope the SHEIN Cares Fund will further support many organizations around the world who are on the front lines of tackling tough challenges.”
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Jendaya launches focusing on African businesses

Image: jendaya.com Business of Fashion has reported that Jendaya, an Africa-focused luxury e-commerce platform, has officially launched. The platform is being led by Ayo Rufai, Kemi Adetu, and Teni Sagoe. The company’s products ship to Africa, Asia, the U.K., the U.S., and Europe. “Jendaya is the only e-commerce marketplace that uses the social power of community and culture to help global shoppers discover diverse designers,” Rufai said to Business of Fashion. The company is being advised by Federico Marchetti, the former chairman and CEO of Yoox Net-a-Porter Group. The company’s board of advisors also includes Rotimi Akinyemiju, former COO of Moda Operandi, and Omoyemi Akerele, founder of Lagos Fashion Week. Jendaya’s website describes it as “Africa’s ultimate luxury shopping destination.” Currently, the website stocks 60 brands with plans to continue adding brand partners as they expand.
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Roland DG unveils dress created by new textile printer

Image: Roland DG Roland DG has unveiled a press release printed on a dress by its newest textile printer, the Texart XT-64OS-F. The dress, sewn in London and printed in Milan, utilises the white ink and bright colour capabilities the machine offers, as well as the ability to print text. “We worked with our Italian textile customers to design the machine, so it only felt right to continue our collaboration with industry creatives to bring the dress release to life. We hugely enjoyed working with talented designers, seamstresses, photographers and models to help turn our vision into reality, and we hope our customers feel inspired to make their own unique garments as a result,” said EMEA marketing director of Roland DG, Stephen Davis. The company also collaborated with designer Fabia Goff in order to create the pattern. Goff, who previously worked with brands like John Lewis and Laura Ashley said that she wanted “the pattern to be on trend, incorporating the bright colours we will be seeing on catwalks throughout 2022.” The new textile machine is aimed at apparel print houses and garment manufacturers. It will allow fashion houses to create prototypes of clothing, or create one off pieces for a show. Through using the print-on-demand garments, the textile machine will reduce garment waste and help meet growing demand for short-run printing in the apparel and textile industry. “We hope our customers feel inspired to make their own unique garments as a result,” said Davis.
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ThredUp/And Just Like That Costume Designers' partnership shows how far secondhand clothes have come

ThredUP Last week saw the release of And Just Like That, a reboot of HBO’s comedy series, Sex and the City, which ran for six seasons from 1998 to 2004, won four Emmy awards and spawned two movies. Today sees the launch of a special shopping partnership between the costume designers of And Just Like That, Molly Rogers and Danny Santiago, and ThredUP, the online resale platform which provided much of the new show’s wardrobe. Perhaps the most remarkable thing about the partnership, which presents three online storefronts full of hundreds of thrifted styles including items straight from the show, is that it demonstrates how far pre-worn clothes have come in the twenty some years since the original show’s heyday. Back then, Carrie, Miranda, Charlotte, and Samantha––who does not appear in the revival––were in their 30s and 40s and their New York City lives revolved around runway labels, exclusive restaurant reservations and the hottest after parties. The evolution of style icon Carrie Bradshaw The legendary stylist Patrica Field styled the looks which rubber-stamped some of the show’s most memorable moments particularly for the main character, Carrie, played by Sarah Jessica Parker. There was Carrie fishing cigarettes out of her Dior Saddle bag after browsing in Barney’s; maxing out her credit card in Dolce & Gabbana; shoe shopping at Manolo Blahnik; slipping into acres of smoke-hued Atelier Versace tulle for date night in Paris; sheathed in John Galliano for Christian Dior newsprint dress to apologize to another woman for stealing her husband; tottering into the maternity ward to visit her pregnant friend in rose-colored Christian Louboutin sandals; and freshly unboxing fuchsia Oscar de la Renta for an evening at the Met. Yes, Field also selected significant vintage pieces to create Carrie’s clashing high/low, uptown meets downtown quirky look, but newness was the driving force behind Sex and the City‘s success. Vintage was integrated into the designer wardrobe, and indie labels, Chinatown namesake necklaces or luxury purses, could became overnight sensations when Carrie sported them. Sex and the City represented aspirational living at its pre-recession peak. But the fashion world of the 1990s and early 2000s was an exclusive world with little to no diversity, barely any online shopping, no social media. “When I first started styling over 20 years ago, our only thrifting option was to scour the crowded racks of NYC consignment shops,” said Molly Rogers, who began her career with Patricia Field. “It’s amazing to see how resale platforms like ThredUP have made it that much easier to source secondhand styles.” ThredUP What’s old is new in ThredUP And Just Like That partnership Each ThredUP closet displays three distinct styles to shop which understandably leads to the assumption that each one represents a character from the show. The Statement Maker offers the opportunity to create unexpected looks that somehow work with secondhand brands such as Nanushka, Alice + Olivia, and Manolo Blahnik—inevitably consumers will assume this reflect’s Carrie’s aesthetic as she was inextricably linked to her Manolos. The Polished Romantic is bright is bright, feminine, and preppy, strong on florals and frills, with brands such as Chanel, Rebecca Taylor, and Burberry, thus echoing Charlotte’s style. And the Laid-Back Power Dresser who doesn’t compromise comfort for style, has a penchant for relaxed tailoring, favoring brands such as Loewe, Vince, and Marc Jacobs, is giving strong Miranda vibes. However labels are less acceptable now than twenty years ago and the partnership addresses today’s a la carte sensibilities. “It’s not about dressing like a specific character, but really about being inspired by our work to identify your own personal style,” said And Just Like That co-costume designer, Santiago. “I believe fashion should be accessible and fun for everyone and reflect each person’s individuality, and that’s exactly what we hope to convey with this collaboration. I’m proud that these ThredUP collections showcase stylish assortments across every price point and size. And yes, there are thrifted Manolos!” Carrie, and to a lesser extent the other characters, inspired a generation of designers, stylists and consumers with the looks she wore. She represented the fantasy of fashion and the joy of dressing up before pandemic-induced working from home killed glamor and glorified sweats. Carrie showed up to go shopping, she dressed for the occasion of it, whereas today we shop in our pajamas without moving from the couch. “Shopping is my cardio,” she once said. A ThredUP 2021 report found that 33 million consumers bought secondhand apparel for the first time in 2020, and 76 percent of those first-time buyers plan to increase their spend on secondhand in the next 5 years, while its recent Thrift for the Holidays Report revealed that 62 percent of consumers believe buying secondhand apparel/fashion gifts are more socially acceptable now than 5 years ago, demonstrating that any remaining stigma around wearing or gifting pre-worn is lifting. The elevation of secondhand is inkeeping with our more enlightened society driven by diversity, inclusivity and sustainability, all words little used 20 years ago. “At ThredUP, our mission is to inspire a new generation to think secondhand first, and we admire Molly and Danny’s commitment to more sustainable styling through thrift,” Erin Wallace, ThredUP’s VP of Integrated Marketing said in a statement. “Television is increasingly driving shopping trends, and this collaboration makes it possible for consumers to thrift the look in a responsible, wallet-friendly way.” 100 percent of the proceeds of the ThredUP And Just Like That partnership will go to the Willie Garson Fund which directly supports connecting children in foster care with loving families. Garson who played Stanford Blatch, Carrie’s loyal friend with the biting wit, died during the filming of And Just Like That. Fashion editor Jackie Mallon is also an educator and author of Silk for the Feed Dogs, a novel set in the international fashion industry
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Falke launches sportswear collaboration with Rowbots

Image: Falke; Falke x Rowbots #SwitchOn collection Falke has teamed up with mindset-led fitness brand Rowbots, co-founded by footballer Gareth Bale on a men’s and women’s capsule sportswear collection for autumn/winter 2021. The collaboration aims to redefine the sports industry by inspiring the fitness community “to move better, feel better and perform better,” utilising Falke’s long-term research in knitting technology and biomechanics to create the perfect sports apparel. The Falke x Rowbots #SwitchOn collection features socks, T-shirts, shorts, pullovers, sports bras and tights designed to cater for all workouts in black and grey colourways with both brands logos. The technical clothing collection aims to “move with you as you perform” and has been made with performance fabrics that offer the highest level of comfort by effective moisture management and temperature regulation. Image: Falke; Falke x Rowbots #SwitchOn collection Highlights include the parachute long tights, which are elegant sports trousers that guarantee the best freedom of movement by avoiding irritating seams and are made of high-quality polyamide yarn ensuring ideal anti-pilling properties and a comfortable texture. The core challenge shorts are made of an elastic and easy-care functional fabric, feature sweat absorbing terry texture on the inside to offer the highest level of comfort, as well as unrestricted freedom of movement and extremely quick re-drying. Image: Falke; Falke x Rowbots #SwitchOn collection While the Falke x Rowbots RU4 socks are described as “all-rounders,” with cushioning to protect against blisters by reducing pressure points and the Madison bra-top features a seamless finish and a dual-layer construction that makes it extremely fast-drying, while the compression fit ensures superb support. Andre Brockert, business unit director at Falke ergonomic sport system, said in a statement: “Performance-oriented products for even more workout fun, that’s what the collection by Rowbots, Gareth Bale and Falke promises. We are pleased to present a joint fitness collection with these strong partners.” The Falke x Rowbots is available online at falke.com and both Rowbots studios in London. Prices start from 17 pounds. Image: Falke; Falke x Rowbots #SwitchOn collection
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Podcast: Re;code, Everything is Material

Joshua Williams In this episode, part of our monthly brand feature series, we learn about Re;code, a Seoul, Korea based company redefining the fashion design process by reusing a vast array of materials.
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Hush delivers record revenue and profits

Image: Hush Women’s fashion and lifestyle brand Hush has reported record financial results for the year to March 27, 2021, and continued growth in the first half of FY22 to September 25, 2021. FY21 operating profit increased by 169 percent year-on-year to 11.4 million pounds, compared to 4.2 million pounds in 2020, as consumers accelerated shift to online shopping due to the pandemic, which Hush states resulted in “top line growth, combined with exceptional lower marketing and retail costs”. The business delivered a 23 percent increase in sales to 58 million pounds, driven primarily by continued growth through the brand’s e-commerce website and those of its digital partners, which increased by 43 percent. E-commerce sales represented 95 percent of total sales to March, compared with 81 percent the year before. Image: Hush Hush notes that it delivered a “strong performance,” especially when you take into account the impact of Covid-19 and the associated trading restrictions on the brand’s pop-up stores and retail partner concessions during the year. Despite those closures, the brand’s customer database grew by 25 percent, and the number of new customers introduced to the business was up by 54 percent, which it states reflects the effectiveness of Hush’s digital-led marketing strategy. Hush chief executive, Kate Bartman, said in a statement: “We’re delighted to report a record financial performance in the year to March 2021, with strong sales and profit growth despite the impact of Covid-19 on some of our sales channels. “Our business has more than trebled in size over the past four years which is a testament to the strength of our brand, our high-quality products and excellent customer engagement. With this strong momentum, as well as the exciting investments we have made in our people and business, we are very excited about our long-term growth plans.” Hush reports record FY21 financial results and continued growth in the first half of FY22 Image: Hush Hush also adds that it has “continued the strong momentum” from FY21 in the first six months of the current financial year despite the unpredictable trading backdrop, with revenues up 20 percent against the prior year and up 42 percent on a two-year basis. This strong performance continues to be driven by high levels of customer acquisition and engagement, further sales growth through the brand’s e-commerce channel, and the positive performance experienced since the re-opening of Hush’s UK retail concessions. Bartman added: “We’re pleased to say that our momentum has continued into the current year against a challenging retail backdrop, and with our growing and loyal customer base, exciting new collections, and the strong performance of our bricks and mortar retail channels to complement our rapidly growing digital sales, we are very well positioned as we enter the Christmas trading period. “Above all else, the brand’s continued success is down to our people. We have retained and recruited exceptionally talented people and continued to promote our strong ‘one team’ culture while navigating the novelties of hybrid home and office working. This performance belongs to every member of our amazing team.” Image: Hush In March 2020, Hush also received the first external investment in the company’s 18-year history from True Global, Europe’s only retail and consumer sector private equity specialist, which led to the fashion brand investing in a number of senior appointments during the period. Bartman who was commercial director was promoted to chief executive, while Sheila McKain was promoted to chief product officer. Don Davis joined from Asos as chief financial officer, Peter Davies from Superdry as chief technology officer, and Andrew Woodward from Selfridges as chief marketing officer. In addition, retail industry leader Susanne Given was named as Hush’s first-ever non-executive chair in November 2020 to support the brand’s long-term growth ambitions.
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Ted Baker makes board changes following death of chairman

Image: Ted Baker Retailer Ted Baker has issued an update in relation to its board following the sudden death of its chair, John Barton, on December 6. The company has confirmed that a formal search for a new chair is underway, with Helena Feltham remaining as interim chair. Additionally, Andrew Jennings, who previously intended to step down from the board on January 29, has agreed to stay on as a non-executive director until the 2022 annual general meeting. He will also continue his role as chair of the Remuneration Committee. Meg Lustman will assume the role of non-executive director responsible for employee engagement, effective from January 29. The role is currently held by Helena Feltham.
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Self-Portrait’s SP Collection acquires luxury brand Roland Mouret

Image: Han Chong SP Collection, a new holding company established by Self-Portrait founder Han Chong, has acquired luxury label Roland Mouret following its administration filing last month. The brand will join Self Portrait in the group set up by Chong, established to “discover, nurture and develop best in class creativity and design”. The acquisition of the brand will consist of its intellectual property and the assets of 19 RM Limited. Staff and retail are not a part of the offer. The first collection by Roland Mouret is expected to be Resort 2023, set to be presented in June 2022 and available for purchase by November 2022. As part of the acquisition, founder Roland Mouret will take on a new role as founder and creative chair. “I am very honoured to have the chance to take this luxury brand on the next stage of its journey,” said Chon, in a release. “As part of SP Collection, Roland Mouret will benefit from the infrastructure and resources necessary to ensure it can flourish in the coming years. The Roland Mouret brand already has a powerful and respected legacy and I’m excited to see how we can develop it for luxury customers around the world. I am also delighted that Roland himself will be a part of this next chapter.” Mouret also expressed his satisfaction with the acquisition, noting Chong’s “passion for the Roland Mouret brand”. The label filed for administration back in late November, following the rapid decline of the events and special occasions industry affected by the pandemic. A report by the Financial Times stated the brand’s sales plummeted by 80 percent at the start of the pandemic, further suggesting it could take five years to fully recover.
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Aeffe managing director exits

Aeffe SpA, the parent company of brands including Alberta Ferretti, Moschino, and Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini, has consensually terminated its relationship with former managing director Marcella Tassinari. Aeffe CEO Simone Badioli will take over as ad interim managing director. Rather than appointing a new general managing director, Aeffe has opted to set up an executive committee that will include Badioli, Massimo Ferretti, and Giancarlo Galeone. Ferretti is currently executive president of Aeffe. In a statement, Ferretti said, “I would like to thank Mr. Tassinari for his professional contribution, his dedication and his support offered to the achievement of the goals reached, to date, by Aeffe S.p.A., and by the Group. We therefore wish Mr. Tassinari all successes in his future career. The transition of the company projects will be guaranteed by the executive committee.” As part of his termination agreement Tassinari will receive 900,000 euros, 890,000 of which are an incentive to leave, and 10,000 are a novative transaction to be paid on February 10, 2022. He will also still receive the use of a corporate car.
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N. Fungible launches globally

N. Fungible, a launchpad and marketplace for fashion brands in the metaverse, has launched globally. Backed by senior executives from some of the world’s leading retailers, N. Fungible is designed to simplify and streamline entry into the metaverse for brands, designers, and retailers unfamiliar with the crypto ecosystem. N. Fungible clients can expect a holistic, end-to-end suite of services, from the designing and minting of non-fungible tokens (NFTs), selling and management on NFT marketplaces, to digital brand protection, digital authenticity, and physical manufacturing and distribution. In recognition of the growing interest among fashion brands in experimenting with digital collectibles and virtual showcases, N. Fungible aims to inject greater value in enabling phygital (physical and digital) experiences. N. Fungible handles the entire end-to-end process for brands, not limiting them to only designing digital products, but also transforming them into real-world items that customers can buy and enjoy. The corresponding NFTs then enable the asset holders to earn royalties on their physical counterparts, bringing real-world value to digital collectibles. In a statement, Nikolai Prettner, CEO of N. Fungible, said, “It’s undeniable that the future of fashion is digital. In the past year, we’ve seen some of the world’s largest names experimenting with branded in-game skins or virtual pop-ups, exemplifying the new, innovative ways that fashion is evolving in line with consumer preferences. At N. Fungible, we recognized a unique opportunity to play a leading role in powering the next generation of NFT innovation — one that can go beyond digital collectibles to assets that can appreciate in value while equipping brands with the right tools to mitigate risks on the horizon in an increasingly virtual market.” Through the NFT minting process, N. Fungible ensures that every brand’s NFT is minted on the Ethereum blockchain as a unique, one-of-a-kind digital asset. As enabled by blockchain, each NFT is assured of its authenticity, enabling brands and users alike to identify original items and fakes from specific brands. N. Fungible also handles the storage and logistics process, ensuring that brands don’t need to worry about how their NFTs are being managed and stored in the long-term. To celebrate its launch, N. Fungible will be debuting an exclusive NFT collection in partnership with Carlo Rino, a contemporary leather goods and footwear brand that sells over 300,000 bags from its collection every year. As the first brand to launch on N. Fungible, Carlo Rino is releasing a collection of 10,000 of its bags to be minted as NFTs. In a statement, William Chiang, CEO of Carlo Rino, said, “Working with N. Fungible has allowed us to enter the crypto ecosystem in a simple, straightforward way, enabling us to focus more so on our design and our craft. We’re thrilled to be launching our first NFT collection with them, introducing the Carlo Rino brand to a whole new global audience while enabling us to engage with our existing base of dedicated customers in a new, creative way.” Carlo Rino will physically manufacture 100 designs from the 10,000 minted NFTs — this will be based on the trading volume of the NFTs, allowing users to decide which bags will be produced. What differentiates N. Fungible’s role in the partnership is that it will ensure that every NFT holder benefits from royalties upon the sale of the physical bag. 50 percent of the royalties tied to these NFTs will go to a Collection Pool that all NFT holders have a right towards, and the other 50 percent will go directly to the NFT holders, excluding gas fees on the transaction. The partnership is a first of its kind, enabling NFTs to benefit from true utility and allowing their holders to benefit from them physically and financially. In a statement, Giulio Xiloyannis, advisor at N. Fungible and group COO of Zalora, said, “It’s an incredibly exciting time to be in fashion as the digital and physical realms continue to converge. With N. Fungible, brands can be assured that they’re entering the metaverse in a meaningful, authentic way that will appeal to their existing customer base while bringing about new value streams to reward their loyalty.” At launch, N. Fungible will be working directly with brands on the designing, minting, branding, marketing, and sale of their NFTs. Throughout 2022, the team will be rolling out its marketplace function and will be working toward its Digital Authenticity offering. While NFTs currently represent a new innovation in proof of ownership, N. Fungible strives to take this to the next level, designing functional NFTs that can transform proof of ownership into intellectual property with trademark protections. N. Fungible is led by CEO Nikolai Prettner, a multidisciplinary designer with over 10 years of experience in the fashion and analytics space. Prettner also currently leads the design and web development team at Omnilytics, a leading retail market intelligence platform. The executive team also comprises COO Elaine Low, a fashion industry veteran with over 20 years of experience in the luxury goods arena, having held senior positions at Chanel, Louis Vuitton, and Versace.
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Tennis brand Prince adds new footwear partner

Prince, the global tennis brand owned by Authentic Brands Group (ABG), has signed a footwear deal with Pajar Canada to expand its lifestyle offering. The new footwear partnership will allow Prince to expand its lifestyle assortment for men and women as part of its plans to elevate the brand’s off-court style. The new collection will feature strong sport silhouettes with details including heritage woven labels, terry cloth linings, and ultra-lightweight injected comfort insoles, as well as vibrantly coloured slides accented with the Prince logo. Taryn Washenik, senior vice president of fashion, classics and outdoor at ABG, said in a statement: “Pajar Canada is a highly trusted footwear operator, which brings generations of expertise to this important category for the Prince brand. This new partnership will help to further build out Prince’s lifestyle offerings and presents an opportunity to capture the attention of a new set of fashion tastemakers.” Jacques Golbert, president of Pajar Canada, added: “We challenged our design team to create a footwear collection that authentically embodies the heritage and style of this iconic brand. We look forward to building the demand for Prince by incorporating unique design elements and on trend details to this new product offering.” Pajar Canada is a fifth-generation family shoe business founded in 1963. Based in Montreal, Quebec, Pajar is a full-service company that designs, manufactures, and distributes footwear and outerwear. The new Prince footwear collection will be available in the US and Canada at select speciality retailers, department stores and on princetennis.com in summer 2022.
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Harrods brings annual sale forward as Omicron spreads

Image: Harrods via Pexels Harrods has moved its annual Boxing Day sale earlier this year “in response to ongoing trading realities.” The luxury department store already has discounts of up to 50 percent on selected goods on its online store, with further discounting expected to be applied on Boxing Day. As the Omicron virus continues to feverishly spread across the UK, shoppers are being forced to stay home. High street visitor numbers remain down and a lack of international tourists continue to negatively impact retailers during the year’s ‘golden’ period. Businesses are reporting lower customer demand since the Plan B restrictions came into force in the first week of December, while the current spike in the number of people testing positive with the Omicron variant has also seen many consumers staying away from crowded places, said the Retail Gazette.The UK’s economic growth is forecast to its slowest pace since February, with trade unions asking for additional support. Harrods managing director Michael Ward said in a statement: “As we enter this important moment in the trading calendar, we are delighted to give our customers the festive treat of the Harrods winter sale to enjoy wherever they are, be that at our iconic Knightsbridge store, online or through our remote shopping services. “Harrods has never been afraid of adapting to suit the changing needs of our customers, and we hope that bringing our sale forwards will give our clients all over the world an opportunity to enjoy the magic of Harrods at Christmas for longer.” Harrods is one of London’s largest retail emporium’s operating a seven-storey building has with one million square feet of floorspace. The sale will run throughout the festive season and into January.
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Tommy Hilfiger partners with Roblox creators on virtual collection

Image: Tommy Hilfiger x Roblox Premium fashion brand Tommy Hilfiger has revealed a partnership with eight user-generated content (UGC) designers from the Roblox community to create a collection of thirty digital fashion pieces that players can use to dress their avatars. The Tommy x Roblox Creators collection is available through the online platform’s global marketplace. Looks draw influence from signature real-life designs from the brand and are merged with design twists developed by the UGC creators. Items available include a Tommy Jeans backpack, bucket hat and head bow, as well as a headset and 20 2D skins by two designers. Partners were given creative freedom to reinterpret brand pieces in both 2D and 3D digital items. Image: Tommy Hilfiger x Roblox “I love how the brand has already been unofficially adopted into the Roblox platform, with users creating their own Tommy Hilfiger styles,” commented Hilfiger, in a release. “We couldn’t pass the chance of partnering with some of these fans to take this self-expression one step further, empowering them to bring their creative twist to official brand styles.” Hilfiger joins the growing array of designers and brands who have taken to the Roblox community to offer a digital take on their collections. Ralph Lauren, Nike and Vans are among those swarming to the platform, offering everything from avatar outfits to full-blown immersive experiences. This also isn’t Hilfiger’s first exploration of the digital sphere. In 2020, the brand partnered with in-game creators of Nintendo’s Animal Crossing: New Horizons, building the ‘Tommy Island’ for players to visit, explore and shop digital collections.
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Workers Rights Consortium urges American retailers to join international Safety Accord

Image: Clean Clothes Campaign The Bangladesh factory collapse in 2013 took over 1,100 lives and led to an international Safety Accord to protect local garment workers. Now with 155 global apparel brands and retailers having signed the agreement, it has become apparent that a number of key American retailers are not signatories. In another tragic incident, a fire that broke out in a sportswear factory on the outskirts of Dhaka killed 29 workers died 11 years ago. These workers made clothing for brands including Target, Kohl, JCPenney, Carter’s, Abercrombie & Fitch amongst others. These American retailers all maintained labour rights monitoring schemes that were supposed to protect workers’ safety—yet the companies took no apparent action in the months and years before the fire to address the hazards that ultimately killed 29 garment workers, said the Workers Right Consortium. Despite calls in the wake of this disaster for all apparel brands and retailers producing in Bangladesh to help address the sweeping safety deficiencies across the country’s 3,000 garment factories, multiple US companies rejected the creation of a new safety agreement. For example, Walmart claimed in 2011 that it was “not financially feasible” for it to pay better prices to suppliers to help pay for safety renovations like proper fire exits. Kohl’s, Target, JCPenney, Carter’s and A&F have not signed the Safety Accord Incredibly, when a binding agreement between unions and brands to address worker safety in Bangladesh was finally created after the 2013 Rana Plaza building collapse, most of the brands that produced at That’s Its Sportswear refused to sign it, including Kohl’s, Target, JCPenney, and Carter’s. Abercrombie & Fitch did sign, but then refused to remain in the agreement when it was renewed in 2018. To date, none of these brands have signed the new International Safety Accord. “Safety renovations generated by the Accord across 1,600 factories have made conditions safer for more than two million workers”, said Scott Nova, Executive Director of the Worker Rights Consortium. “Participation by additional retailers such as Target, Gap, and Kohl’s would bring this life-saving program to cover thousands more workers in Bangladesh and could help ensure its expansion to other countries.”
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Podcast: The Glossy Podcast speaks to Cleobella founder, Angela O' Brien

In this episode, the Glossy Podcast has interviewed the founder of sustainable fashion brand Cleobella, Angela O' Brien. Listen to the podcast below. Source: The Glossy Podcast via Megaphone Photo credit: Image: The Glossy Podcast
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H&M posts 11 percent increase in Q4 sales

Image: H&M image gallery Net sales at H&M Group in local currencies increased by 11 percent in the fourth quarter 2021 compared with the corresponding period last year. The company said in a statement that for the 2021 financial year net sales increased by 12 percent in local currencies. Converted to SEK, net sales increased by 8 percent to 56,813 million Swedish krona in the fourth quarter and net sales increased by 6 percent to 198,967 million Swedish krona in the full year. The company added that despite continued restrictions and the negative consequences of the pandemic, the H&M group’s sales in local currencies were back at the same level as in the fourth quarter of 2019. At the beginning of the quarter around 100 stores were temporarily closed, mainly in South-East Asia. At the end of the quarter around 115 stores remained temporarily closed, mostly in Austria and Slovakia.
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Item of the week: the boiler jumpsuit

(From left) Image: Garcia, Humanoid, Michael Kors ## What it is: The boiler jumpsuit, or boilersuit, has cemented its place in both history and fashion. Typically, the item is a loose-fitting piece covering the whole body, often cinched at the waist with an opening from the fly to the collar. Its history spans back to the Industrial Revolution, worn by men who tended coal-fire burners. Later adopted by female munitions workers during the Second World War, it didn’t make its mark in fashion until the early 80s, when it became common for designers to draw inspiration from workwear. It has since become a staple piece in customer wardrobes and on runways, arguably influencing catsuits, jumpsuits and other popular silhouettes that mirror this utility-like look. Image: Scotch & Soda ## Why you’ll want it: As a unisex item, the boilersuit appeals to a broad audience and is the perfect option for customers who prefer to keep their legs and arms covered. It provides a stylish alternative to a jeans and t-shirt combo, meaning many shoppers can sport the look without compromising their personal comfort zone. Its regular appearance in both the SS and AW seasons, allow for it to remain popular throughout the year. This allows for the possibility to be seen as an investment piece for shoppers, who want an item that can hold a lasting value in their wardrobes. Additionally, the suit holds the ability to act as a glam, night-out option or a more casual daily look, taking the wearer from day to night effortlessly. Image: Ted Baker ## Where we’ve seen it: The boilersuit has found its place among menswear for the coming season, with many big designers adopting the style into their SS22 lines to display the genderless appeal the suit has. Appearing a number of times throughout Louis Vuitton’s catwalk, Virgil Abloh merged the suit’s industrial origins with rave culture, the inspiration behind the collection. The result: electric blue and red suits designed in monogrammed leathers that contrasted the tailored, grey two pieces also revealed. Helmut Lang and Dries Van Noten took a more traditional approach to the boilersuit, both utilising industrial colour palettes, with Lang directly inspired by nautical uniform elements. In womenswear, Isabel Marant and Zegna displayed more fashion-led formats, offering up the loose-fitted silhouette featuring an array of design details that exhibited a dressier version of the look. Image: Humanoid ## How to style it: Another great thing about the boilersuit is the simplicity and ease of how to style it. For a day look, pair the suit with trainers and a long line cotton coat, both with neutral undertones to keep in line with the colourings of the one piece. To transform the suit into eveningwear attire, grab a pair of strappy heels and a clutch bag to glam the garment up. Don’t be afraid to play with the style a little and experiment with a belt to bring together the dressy outfit. In consideration of the colder winter months, a layering opportunity is always a good way to go. A neutral coloured turtleneck sweater thrown under the boilersuit can add a bit of warmth when the weather turns, with lace-up ankle boots and a long coat adding further protection from the outdoors. Image: s. Oliver The boilersuit’s long history proves its place in fashion, as the beloved 80s garment has continued to stand its ground season after season. It is a stylish piece that comes without gender barriers and appeals to shoppers through its ability to stay in their comfort zone, albeit as an alternative to more basic garments. It is certainly a good staple addition to a shop, that will remain popular for the coming year and beyond. Image: Superdry Similar items available for (pre)order can be found in the FashionUnited Marketplace. You can find them by clicking on this link.
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FW22 Key Color Predictions For Menswear

Pexel/Sophicolor Ahead of the FW22 men's buying season we present key color predictions using colors from the Sophicolor.com library. Recharge and reset In Fall/Winter 2022 society continues to pursue 'a new normal' with a slower pace of life and a renewed emphasis on health and wellbeing. It's time to recharge the batteries and reset one's value system, focusing on spirituality, community and the environment. Weather patterns are unpredictable and consumers will become more aware of seasonal changes, while still desiring trans-seasonal color palettes in some instances. This will have a direct impact on their color choices. Harvest Pexel/Sophicolor Inspired by a festival that predates religion, celebrating a successful harvest can be found in various forms the world over. It's a busy time of year for the farming community as they gather in the crops; inspired by wheat fields and golden skies. It's a classic fall palette for sweaters and outerwear. Color Palette: Yellow and brown shades mix with burgundy and orange, and a pop of grey blue. Bouquet Pexel/Sophicolor Focusing here on the flowers, such as pansies, that bloom in the winter months. Flowers can speak to us put us in touch with our spirituality. It's a palette that lends itself to intarsia patterns on sweater knits and prints for shirts for use throughout the season. Color Palette: Bold shades of peach, pink and orange work back to purple, brown and cream. Beach Pexel/Sophicolor Walking on the winter beach can be just as alluring as in summer and is beneficial to health. The pale sunlight evokes a sense of wellbeing, while walking on sand, instead of the sidewalk, strengthens muscles. This palette works well for high-tech materials for use in rainwear and casualwear. Color Palette: Icy and acid toned pastels are toned down by navy, teal and dark green. Wonderland Pexel/Sophicolor Due to global warming, heavy snowfall is more rare than 20-30 years ago. Go out and enjoy the winter wonderland, as it is usually short-lived. This is a color palette that works well for outerwear, sweater knit layers and plaids. Color Palette: Classic blue, green and ochre tones are tempered by navy, off-white, shades of grey and popped with neon blue.
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Video: Ralph Lauren launches on Roblox

In this video, Ralph Lauren has debuted its look on Roblox. Watch the video below. Click here to read more about the launch. Video: Ralph Lauren via YouTube Photo credit: Image: Ralph Lauren x Roblox Meta keys: cat: video: country_names: com, UK, au, in, NZ, ca, ie Author: FashionUnited
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Foot Locker launches womenswear brand Cozi

Image: Foot Locker Foot Locker has announced the launch of its first womenswear brand, Cozi. The brand launch follows the successful release of Lckr, and capsule collections by Melody Ehsani and Don C. Cozi looks to provide women with footwear and wardrobe staples. Foot Locker will promote the brand alongside a group of women. They include singer songwriter Sy’rai Smith, skateboarder Briana King, content creator Iliana Ayala Garcia, photographer Christina Paik, video producer Hannah O’ Flynn, DJ Amrit and musicians Angel and Dren Coleman. Smith, who is 19, will act as a brand ambassador for Cozi, and star as the face of its first collection. Cozi is available only at Foot Locker and Champs Sport. The selection of items range from apparel to footwear, painted in a neutral palette. The brand plans on releasing seasonal collections throughout 2022. “At Foot Locker Inc. we are always thinking about the consumer. We understand that laid-back apparel isn’t just for lounging anymore, and wanted to bring a female-centric apparel line to the market that is comfortable, affordable and stylish,” said vice president of GMM global women’s at Foot Locker, Kirta Carroll. “The introduction of Cozi allows women to feel confident in pieces that mix and match with their own style and personality.”
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Gildan acquires Frontier Yarns for 168 million dollars

Image: Gildan media resources Gildan Activewear Inc., through one of its wholly-owned subsidiaries, has acquired 100 percent stake in Phoenix Sanford, LLC, the parent company of Frontier Yarns for a total cash consideration of approximately 168 million dollars. The company said in a release that Frontier is a producer of 100 percent cotton, polyester, and cotton blend yarns primarily manufactured on open end and vortex (MVS) spinning technology. The yarn operations of Frontier acquired by Gildan include four facilities located in North Carolina employing approximately 800 employees. During 2021, approximately forty percent of Frontier’s production was dedicated to yarn sold to Gildan for textile manufacturing in Central America and the Caribbean. “As a long-time trusted yarn supplier of Gildan, with a dedicated and experienced workforce, we are delighted to welcome Frontier into the Gildan family” said Glenn J. Chamandy, President and CEO of Gildan. The company added that the acquisition of Frontier will allow Gildan to build on its global vertically integrated supply chain through further internalizing yarn production. In addition, it will support yarn availability for Gildan’s textile capacity expansion plans in Central America and the Caribbean. “Having developed a long-standing relationship with Gildan over the years, we are excited for our employees given this new opportunity for collaboration and growth,” added Robin Perkins, CEO of Frontier Yarns.
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Tell Your Friends collaborates with Playboy

Image: Walker Drawas Elevated leisurewear label Tell Your Friends has collaborated with lifestyle brand Playboy to create a unisex ready-to-wear collection for holiday 2021. The 10-piece capsule collection uses retro motifs on the signature silk and loungewear separates Tell Your Friends is best known for to pay homage to Playboy’s legacy of pleasure and luxury. Styles include a reversible bomber jacket, an oversized sweater with a spray-painted Playboy logo, a long kimono style robe with custom allover print featuring both the TYF and Playboy Rabbit Head logos, and silk separates. The collection has debuted simultaneously across the Playboy, Revolve, and Fwrd platforms on. Retail prices range from 198 dollars to 398 dollars. Collaborations have become a key part of Playboy’s business as they work on their growth. The brand has recently collaborated with Yandy for a successful collection that strengthened both brands positioning.
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Podcast: Conscious Chatter interviews Farai Simoyi

In this episode, Conscious Chatter has interviewed Farai Simoyi, founder of lifestyle brand The Narativ. Recognisable from her stint on Next in Fashion, Simoyi has discussed her work elevating global artisans and designers through The Narativ. Listen to the podcast below. Source: Conscious Chatter via Libsyn Photo credit: Conscious Chatter
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Simple steps for e-commerce brands to accelerate global growth

Infographic Flow.io Interview A recent survey conducted by Flow Commerce, a company which facilitates e-commerce brands to expand into international markets, revealed that across the 8 top global markets, 76 percent of online consumers said they have placed an order on a site outside their own country, with Gen Z shoppers skewing even higher.  Apparel and accessories were the number one item shopped outside of a brand’s home country. FashionUnited talks to Flow Commerce’s CEO Rob Keve to understand what mistakes brands make when it comes to capturing the overseas consumer and how to leverage next-generation technology to amass a global footprint, especially among Gen Z shoppers. Flow was launched in 2015 by Keve and Mike Bryzek, who had founded fashion e-commerce giant Gilt, when they met at a running track and realized that they shared a vision of the future of e-commerce. According to the Flow Commerce website some brands have seen a 400% increase in their international sales using its cross-border solution. Clients include Ulla Johnson, Good American by Khloe Kardashian, PAIGE, Rowing Blazers and Universal Standard. Pandemic drives cross-border sales “The increase in traffic and the increase in sales for cross-border has really gone ballistic in the last eighteen months,” says Keve. Consumers in lockdown unable to visit physical stores began buying internationally like never before and, with ongoing pandemic surges and new variants emerging around the globe, there is no indication that this will change. Companies, however, need to change their behavior so as not to undermine the consumer experience. “Brands are very focused on customer experience excellence, but that tends to be domestically,” he says. “If 20 percent of site traffic comes from overseas, brands think it will be easy revenue, but it tends to fall apart.” The most common failings are easy to point to. For one, price point. “Are prices nicely rounded and displayed in local currency?” asks Keve. Payment methods are also important. “Are you just offering cards and PayPal because, if so, that’s not a thoughtful checkout experience for consumers in many countries who do not have international cards and don’t use PayPal,” says Keve. Shipping is another area of unnecessary consumer disappointment. It may not end up being free and certainly may not be next day. Duties and taxes are also complicated to get right. “They vary by product and by country and it’s the most awful shopping experience to have a carrier arrive on your doorstep with the product you ordered two weeks ago demanding 50 dollars to cover the duties and taxes you weren’t aware of.” Infographic from Flow.io Countries which take the lead in international retail “If you looked at the ranking of countries that consumers are buying from, it’s vacillated so much in the past 18 months,” says Keve. “That’s largely in line with which countries were in lockdown, and unemployment rates.” Prior to Covid, the ranking was reasonably static and the top countries for a US merchant were Canada, UK, and Australia, followed by some combination of high-GDP countries like France, Germany, Korea, Japan, or Hong Kong. But the order and ranking has since changed which has revealed one of the most interesting takeaways to come out of the pandemic for merchants: the importance of diversifying. “There is such a thing as geographic risk, not just economic risk,” says Keve. “If the US is in high lockdown, and other countries are in a different situation, a diversified retailer can capture that overseas revenue.” According to Flow’s data the more unique products are the ones in highest international demand. Haus Labs, Lady Gaga’s beauty brand, is one of Flow Commerce’s clients. “It’s not available in your average store, so if you are a fan, you’ll be purchasing from her site regardless of where you are in the world.” He says people are willing to shop internationally for more expensive items that aren’t readily available at multiple outlets. “High fashion, handbags, jewelry and beauty have done particularly well.” Determining how much revenue can be generated overseas is a tangible thing as all brands have to do is look at their site traffic and the ip addresses. But Keve says more often than not brands don’t realize how much potential for international growth exists within their business already. “You could be boosting your revenue by 10-20 percent overnight simply by making sure the customer experience is good. That’s low hanging fruit.” Finally, understanding that consumers internationally all behave differently, that it’s not one homogenous market but 200 different countries with different expectations, is key. He advises brands to identify the top 30-40 countries which will probably deliver 80 percent of the volume. This represents enormous potential for the brand to keep expanding without additional structure or a dedicated team. 
 Fashion editor Jackie Mallon is also an educator and author of Silk for the Feed Dogs, a novel set in the international fashion industry
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