The Perfume Shop sold record 1.8m bottles over Christmas

Image: The Perfume Shop Shopper penchant for olfactory gifting saw The Perfume Shop sell its highest ever number of fragrances this Christmas. The perfume giant said sales of its products soared despite Royal Mail strikes and disruptive weather, with 1.8 million bottles sold between 28 November and 24 December. Sales of gift sets were up 26 percent in the week before Christmas. Bestselling fragrances include Dior Sauvage, Coco Mademoiselle by Chanel and Thierry Mugler’s Alien perfumes. The Perfume Shop is operated by the A.S. Watson Group (ASW) which is owned by the Hong Kong-based CK Hutchison Holding group. ASW is the world’s largest international health and beauty retailer, with a network of approximately 16,300 offline and online retail stores in 28 markets worldwide. The Perfume Shop was founded in 1992 and is the UK’s largest fragrance retailer, operating 215 stores. According to The Times, the retailer’s e-commerce site recorded its busiest day on Sunday, December 11, with online orders up 39 percent compared to last Christmas.
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Dame Vivienne Westwood, Queen of Punk and climate activist, has died age 81

Image: Letters to the Earth, Vivienne Westwood Credit: Tania Hoser Dame Vivienne Westwood, the doyenne of British fashion, pioneer of the punk movement and ardent climate activist, has died aged 81. With a career spanning five decades, Westwood changed fashion forever when she introduced punk in the 1970s and along with partner Malcolm McLaren, who managed the Sex Pistols, opened a store on the Kings Road in London’s Chelsea. From the shredded t-shirts to the bondage and fetishism – studs, leather and zips - there was a cultural wave that was transforming England, and Westwood’s unapologetic designs of the time defined an era that continues to reverberate around the world. In the 1990s it was Anglomania that continued Westwood’s reign. Taking inspiration from the art of the classical, mediaeval and renaissance periods, she designed a Scottish tartan that became synonymous with the brand, spawning into its own diffusion range in the late 90s. In 1997 Westwood opened her London store on Conduit Street, a thoroughfare between Soho and Mayfair, followed by a store in New York in 1999. A new silhouette Westwood broke the mould of generic fashion, creating the brand's recognisable hourglass figure with padded bust and bustle constructed out of a lightweight metal cage. Paired with towering platforms, the image of Naomi Campbell tripping on the catwalk has forever been sealed in the archives of catwalk shows. Other signatures are Westwood’s use of asymmetry, bias cuts and decorative fabrics, where she continued to explore British tailoring and historical dress, but reconstructed clothes in novel ways. As one of the UK’s last independent brands, Ms Westwood used her voice to educate the industry on climate change and sustainability. She was as notorious for her Kings Road Sex shop as she was for her activism and ecological crusading. For the past 20 years Vivienne has supported hundreds of causes, NGOs, grassroot charities and campaigns including Amnesty International, War Child and Liberty, as well as launching her own campaigning movement Climate Revolution. She is also an ambassador for Greenpeace. In 2013 Vivienne designed their official ‘Save the Arctic’ logo and in 2015 she launched a global campaign to stop drilling and industrial fishing in the area. Westwood’s partner Andreas Kronthaler was instrumental to the fashion house in later years, with his name appearing on garments and official notes. “Over the years Andreas has taken on ever more responsibility and I wish this fact to be reflected in public perception,” Vivienne Westwood stated. “We chose to separate our lines in order to clarify and reduce them. Gold Label became Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood, while Vivienne designs Vivienne Westwood Mainline, which includes Unisex – a way to reduce buying,” Kronthaler said. The brand took a hiatus from physical shows during the pandemic, but last year opened stores in Beijing and Shanghai. For her last collection, AW2022/23, Quality not quantity, Westwood turned to The Year of the Tiger, to symbolise strength, courage and exorcising evil. “I just use fashion as an excuse to talk about politics. Because I'm a fashion designer, it gives me a voice, which is really good,”
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Asos could face investor rebellion over executive pay

Image: Asos x Nordstrom, New York Asos, which has experienced a challenging year tainted by falling consumer confidence and supply chain disruptions, could be about to face a conflict with shareholders over executive pay. Shareholder advisory service Pirc has recommended investors reject or abstain on more than a third of the 15 motions at the retailer’s upcoming shareholder meeting on January 11, according to a report seen by This is Money. One concern is that Mat Dunn, the company’s CFO who stepped in as CEO on an interim basis following the departure of Nick Beighton in 2021, is set to receive a salary of 567,000 pounds despite the company’s woes. Pirc also described current CEO Jose Ramos’ total potential payout of up to 4.2 million pounds as “excessive”, and recommended shareholders abstain on the re-election of chair Jorgen Lindemann. However, another shareholder adviser, ISS, recommended investors back the retailer’s pay policy, but still added it “raises concerns”. An Asos spokesman told This is Money that pay policies encourage strong performance from the leadership team. Asos has faced a difficult year as falling consumer confidence and supply chain disruptions have hit its top- and bottom lines. In the year to August 31, the company swung to a pre-tax loss of 31.9 million pounds from a profit of 177.1 million pounds a year earlier. A November report by Retail Week claimed Asos was planning to cut over 100 jobs as part of a restructuring plan.
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Seidensticker invests in capacity planning

Men’s shirts and women’s blouse by Seidensticker. Image: Seidensticker Producing clothes and getting quantities right is a tricky business that has been taking its toll on the environment for decades. Overproduction and full warehouses are common problems that the industry has to deal with, be it on manufacturer, brand or retailer side. Many of them thus downsize order quantities to avoid these issue but may then get below minimum order quantities. German Seidensticker (Overseas) Ltd. is investing in technology to tackle this problem: The vertically-integrated manufacturer of men’s shirts and women’s blouses has teamed up with software provider Coats Digital to allow for smaller, more complex order requests and to reduce the time and cost challenges when meeting customers’ last-minute change requirements. Meeting customer demand changes “Companies that invest wisely in the right digital technologies to plan effectively, optimise operational efficiencies and respond quickly to demand changes will be in a much stronger position to weather the storm, and we very much look forward to supporting Seidensticker’s robust digitisation programme to ensure it consistently retains an ‘ahead-of-the-game’ competitive advantage,” commented Wesley Ekman, senior global sales director at Coats Digital, in a statement. The family-run business found that without good visibility to key planning and workflow data, capacity management and line planning teams did not have the accurate data they needed to seamlessly manage higher quantities of smaller orders that often required style variations that increased complexity. Seidensticker also found it challenging to manage  late customer changes to orders since business-critical data was siloed in multiple sources, which meant teams could not work together from a single source of data, to respond to late order change requests quickly and effectively. Tackling faster, shorter and more complex orders “With higher basic cost-to-make outgoings and raw material costs industry-wide, as well as increasing requests for faster, shorter and more complex orders, we needed a solution that would provide total visibility to global capacity planning and workflow processes so we could make business-critical decisions quickly and ensure early discovery of potential delivery challenges to enable us to action these fast and effectively,” explained Peter Tornow, managing director of Seidensticker (Overseas) Ltd. Seidensticker has adopted Coats Digital’s FastReactPlan to provide full visibility of its capacity planning and critical path, which involves supporting four own factories with a 2,300-strong workforce in Vietnam, Indonesia and Bangladesh, which produce 420,000 Seidensticker-branded garments a month. In addition, there are five partner factories that provide garments for other brands, producing between 550,000 and 800,000 pieces a month. The company generates an annual turnover of 145 million US dollars and is headquartered in Bielefeld, Germany and has its Asian headquarters in Hong Kong. “We expect the implementation of FastReactPlan to significantly improve production efficiencies, increase on-time delivery performance and reduce workloads, as well as reduce last-minute firefighting for our planning teams across the whole business”, added Tornow.
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Leading fashion brands earn over 245 million dollars in NFTs sales

Image: Nike x RTFKT Cryptokicks Many are the brands that are foraging the Metaverse seeking for new revenue streams. Companies like Nike, Adidas or Tiffany’s have already cracked the code of non-fungible tokens (NFTs) sales, earning more than 245 million dollars collectively. Whilst partnerships with online gaming, investments in property in the Web 3.0., and pushing the runway into the realm of augmented reality are the most common initial outings into the Metaverse, some of the leading players in the fashion industry have turned to NFTs in order to increase their revenue. It’s the case of Nike, Tiffany’s, Gucci, Dolce & Gabana, Adidas, and Lacoste, amongst others. A recent NFT Brand Case Study authored by @kingjames23 on blockchain analytics platform Dune, reviews the performance measured by number of transactions and revenue of about a dozen of large brand' NFT projects on Ethereum Blockchain. Seven out of those large brands NFT projects belong to the fashion industry. This analysis looks at NFTs sales volume, royalties’ value, and total NFT sales dollar amount. Nike’s 185 million dollars in NFTs sales Nike holds the crown of early adopters of all things Metaverse. In December last year, Nike Inc. announced the acquisition of RTFKT, a leading brand that leverages cutting edge innovation to deliver next generation collectibles that merge culture and gaming. Nike’s included the buyout of RTFKT’s CloneX NFT avatar collection, which launched a month before the acquisition was made public. As explained back then by John Donahoe, president and CEO of the sportswear company, “This acquisition is another step that accelerates Nike’s digital transformation and allows us to serve athletes and creators at the intersection of sport, creativity, gaming and culture.” Nike and RTFKT did their first NFT drop in February and since April this year, RTFKT’s has been bringing virtual, officially licensed Nike sneakers into the NFT market: the CryptoKicks NFT collection. These 20,000 pairs of virtual sneakers sell for everything between 1,300 dollars and 130,000 dollars, with some designed by artist Takashi Murakami topping the most coveted ones. Nike NFT-generated revenue includes CloneX sales and royalties pre-acquisition of RTFKT. Per Dune’s data, the sports apparel company has seen over 70,000 transactions until October, earning 91.2 million dollars in royalties and bringing in another 93.1 million dollars in revenue. In total, Nike’s NFTs sales to date have generated over 184.31 million dollars. Dolce & Gabbana millionaire NFT auctions Image: Collezione Genesi, NFT collection designed by Dolce&Gabbana for UNXD. Since their first NFT project a year ago, Dolce & Gabbana has earned 23.68 million dollars through NFT sales. It’s worth recalling that in October 2021, Dolce & Gabbana closed nine NFT auctions, bringing in a total of 1,885 ETH (valued at circa 5.7 million dollars at the time.) The auctioned items were unique 1/1 pieces forming the ‘Collezione Genesi’ collection. The collectors who bought each of them received the corresponding custom-fitted physical garment within a one to two-year claim period. The leading piece was the Glass Suit, a suit personally designed by D&G founders. Made of silk organza, it features 78 embroidered glassworks, each of them completely distinct in design, size, shape, and color. As the Italian luxury brand announced on Twitter, the Glass Suit sold for 351.384 ETH, or 1 million dollars. Tiffany’s nod to CryptoPunk’s holders Earlier this year, Tiffany’s made it to the news when unveiled a partnership with blockchain firm Chain to launch its first NFT collection, “NFTiff.” As the legendary jewellery house explained, they are “taking NFTs to the next level. Exclusive to CryptoPunks holders, NFTiff transforms your NFT into a bespoke pendant handcrafted by Tiffany & Co. artisans. You’ll also receive an additional NFT version of the pendant.” According to publicly available data, Tiffany’s NFT revenue stood at 12.6 million dollars in October. The NFT collection is made of 250 custom-built pendants designed with materials like gemstones, enamel, and gold and were sold for about 30 ETH (about 49,000 dollars at the time of the announcement in August 2022.) The cost of the NFT, the custom pendant, the chain, and shipping/handling are all included in the fee and the physical pendant, which comes with a chain to serve as a necklace, will be available to be redeemed in 2023. Tiffany’s decision to partner with CryptoPunk - a popular Profile Picture (PFP) NFT collection launched in 2017 and made up of 10,000 uniquely generated digital characters – also lifted the sales volume of CryptoPunk. Indeed, Tiffany’s has seen the highest volume of transactions among top brands trading with NFTs, surpassing the likes of Nike and Adidas. Those 74.000 transactions have resulted into 6.20 million dollars’ worth of NFTs sales and another 4.76 million dollars in royalties. Gucci’s limited Supergucci NFT drop Image: Supergucci, NFT collection by Gucci. Gucci’s pioneering exploration of the Metaverse started in May 2021, with the drop of an NFT film inspired by its Aria fashion collection as part of Christie’s Proof of Sovereignty sale curated by Lady PheOnix. The film was co-directed by Gucci’s creative director Alessandro Michele and renowned photographer Floria Sigismondi, presented Aria collection runaway as a four-minute video clip which sold for 25,000 dollars. Six months later, in early 2022, Gucci started collaborating with vinyl toy creator Superplastic. They co-created a 10,000-piece NFT drop called Supergucci and released it as a three-part series of limited edition NFTs co-created by Michele and Superplastic’s digital personas Janky & Guggimon. Gucci has taken a similar approach than those of Tiffany’s and Dolce & Gabbana, enabling the NFTs’ owners to unlock handmade white ceramic sculptures to accompany their digital corresponding items. To date, Gucci has made close to 11.6 million dollars from selling NFTs. Adidas ‘Into the Metaverse’ Adidas is another brand betting on the Metaverse and already reaping the benefits of such bet. At the end of 2021, Adidas partnered with Bored Ape Yacht Club to sell 30,000 NFTs for 0.2 ETH a piece (22 million dollar at the time.) Each of those non-fungible tokens were redeemable for physical hoodies, tracksuits, and beanies. ‘Into the Metaverse’ is the name of this collaborative NFT project between adidas Originals and NFT pioneers gmoney, Bored Ape Yacht Club and PUNKS Comic. The Phase 1 NFT was the first step of the Into the Metaverse. Phase 1 physical product claims have now closed and the Phase 1 token no longer grants the ability to claim collaborative physical merchandise. Adidas NFTs have been the object of 52,770 transactions ever since, generating 6.2 million dollars in sales and adding other 4.7 million in royalties revenue. Lacoste’s NFTs give owners a say The iconic polo brand has recently joined the Metaverse fashion crowd with an NFT drop. In June, Lacoste launched its first NFT collection titled ‘Undw3’ and pronounced “underwater”. As advanced by the fashion brand, they are looking to sell 11,212 digital pieces that reference Lacoste’s iconic polo shirt L1212 at the starting price of 0.08 ETH (around 1,300 dollars at the time of this edition.) Lacoste’s chief brand officer Catherine Spindler stated in the official announcement how “Undw3 attests to our desire to accompany the phenomenon of decentralization driven by Web3 and bears witness to our ambitions in this area.” Spindler shared the company’s desire to bring together both their physical and digital consumers. Lacoste pioneered yet a different promise to its NFTs owners: They will not only have access to exclusive physical products but will also have a say in the upcoming designs. Noteworthy, Lacoste already tested the Metaverse waters in March, when they launched ‘Croco Island’ in Minecraft, featuring 30 skins (digital outfits) that served as a preview into the Minecraft x Lacoste apparel collection. According to the Dune’s data, these efforts are already paying off in the form of 1.1 million dollars in NFTs sales.
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Packaging giant 3m to stop using 'forever chemicals'

Image: Samsøe Samsøe x Gore-Tex 3M, a global manufacturer of packaging solutions from packing tape to Post-IT notes to waterproof coatings, have said it will stop making and using so-called "forever chemicals", common materials that have been linked to environmental hazards and health problems, such as cancer. 3M follows companies such as Gore-Tex, who have pledged to eliminate PFCs of environmental concern from the life cycle of its consumer fabrics products. Many of 3M’s solutions include substances for coatings, such as waterproofing clothing, chemicals known as PFAS (per and polyfluoroalkyl substances) that do not break down under normal environmental conditions, and have been found in dangerous concentrations in soil, water, food and even the human body. For years campaigners have urged for alternatives in the food industry where harmful chemicals were used to create non-stick pans. The BBC reported 3M will phase out the chemicals by the end of 2025, but honour contracts until then. It will mean thousands of industrial and everyday products will need to be re-calibrated or re-formulated with alternative materials. "With these two actions, 3M is committing to innovate toward a world less dependent upon PFAS," the firm said. 3M said it previously phased out use of two PFAS earlier in the 2000s. Revenue from 'forever chemicals' generates approximately 1.3bn dollars in sales each year, less than 5 percent of its overall revenue, said the BBC. By aligning with consumer and environmental sentiment, 3M is positioning itself as a leader in more environmentally-friendly packaging solutions. Article source: BBC
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Luxury labels to watch: 5 Young Parisian womenswear brands to know

IN PICTURES Designer Laurie Arbellot surrounded by models at the presentation of the Minuit brand. Credit: Minuit. In Paris, the fashion scene is renewing itself and in recent seasons has seen the emergence of luxury brands with promising futures. Crystal applications, lace work or silhouettes with practical elegance, the designers combine luxury with multiple, always ultra-modern style palettes. But what are their plans for 2023, their bestsellers and where are they sold? Here are the five names to keep your eye on next year. Minuit Backstage photo from the presentation of the Minuit label. Credit: Minuit. Before launching her luxury women's ready-to-wear label in September 2020, Laurie Arbellot studied at Studio Berçot and worked at several fashion houses such as Balenciaga and Proenza Schouler. Her time in New York and her Parisian training contribute to Minuit's chic style tinged with sportswear accents. The young label presented its spring/summer 2023 line as part of the official Paris Fashion Week calendar. This Parisian brand offers two collections per year and counts two leather pieces among its bestsellers: its Tomboy trousers in metallic leather and a patent leather jacket called Automoto. Its items are sold in shops from 90 euros for small accessories to 2,500 euros for a signature silk organza dress. Backstage photos from the Minuit presentation. Credit: Midnight. The brand is based in Paris and has an e-shop. Its network of retailers includes La Samaritaine and Printemps Haussmann in Paris, Harvey Nichols in Dubai, Kirna Zabete in New York and La Rinascente in Milan. The opening of its own shop in Paris is one of its future projects. Boutet Solanes Presentation of Boutet Solanes collection spring/summer 2023. Credit: Jose Maria Solanes Constance Boutet, aka Coco Boutet, was recently appointed artistic director of the French brand Zapa and, together with photographer Jose Maria Solanes, founded the Boutet Solanes label in 2020. A graduate of the Esmod school, the designer cut her teeth at the luxury group LVMH and worked at Celine, under the direction of Phoebe Philo. Presentation of Boutet Solanes collection spring/summer 2023. Credit: Jose Maria Solanes Boutet Solanes stands out with pieces of practical elegance and has made its suits its best-sellers. Its spring/summer 2023 collection, inspired by stones and minerals, was presented as part of the official Paris Fashion Week calendar. Based in Paris, the brand will launch its e-commerce site in February 2023 and so far has a wholesale network developed only in North America. It creates two collections a year and offers a boutique price of between 190 euros and 3,200 euros. The Irish Twin Credit: The Irish Twin The Irish Twin is the youngest brand on our list. Launched in 2022, this newcomer to French luxury offers Parisian artisanal production under the direction of founder Jill Bauwens, former women's creative director of ready-to-wear brand The Kooples. The Irish Twin's flamboyantly accented pieces are based around a “host wear” wardrobe – chic and glamorous – with a "joie de vivre" spirit. Among the current collection are: an emerald green satin midi dress adorned with crystals (a bestseller of the moment) or a linen mini-dress with an open back. The release of the collections does not follow a precise schedule. Jill Bauwens creates according to her "desires and desires", she explained over message. Distributed only on the e-shop – but with a pop-up in London planned for 2023 – the pieces range from 650 euros for a satin crop-top to 1,450 euros for a dress. A line of accessories has also been developed and is one of the brand's bestsellers: it consists of large bows to clip onto a bodice and hair accessories. They sell for between 110 euros and 250 euros. Vaillant Vaillant spring-summer 2023 collection. The founder Alice Vaillant. Credit: Vaillant. Coming from the creative studios of the houses Jean-Paul Gaultier and Nina Ricci, designer Alice Vaillant launched her eponymous brand in 2019 and created her first collection in September 2020 for the spring/summer 2021 season. This first show received significant press coverage and made the label a brand to watch. Among its plans for 2023: the house announced its participation in the Andam competition, a runway show in February and a collaboration with shoe brand Nodaleto. Vaillant's delicate, feminine fashion stands out for its signature lace work. Its bestseller is in fact a deconstructed lace top inspired by lingerie and sold for 425 euros on its e-shop. Its retail price range is between 170 euros for underwear pieces and 2,500 euros for a leather coat. Credit: Vaillant. Vaillant offers two main collections a year and launched two capsules in 2022. In 2023, the Parisian label will launch two collections as well as two pre-collections. Next to its e-shop – for which 80 percent of the clientele is American – it is also sold on the Ssense platform, at H Lorenzo (in Los Angeles), Centre Commercial (in Paris) and even Norgattan (in Italy). Vaillant does not yet have its own shop but in December it organised a pop-up store in the Printemps shop in Paris. The house says by email that it has quadrupled its turnover between 2021 and 2022 and specifies that that of 2023 is already equal to that of 2022. Pressiat Credit: Pressiat Founded by Frenchman Vincent Garnier Pressiat in 2020, Pressiat is one of the young French brands highlighted in season 3 of the hit series Emily in Paris. It features a mixed wardrobe with a rock and romantic aesthetic and has made the corset and leotard its bestsellers. The brand plans to launch a line of one-off pieces in 2023, a series of NFTs and will host a cabaret night. Included in the official Paris Fashion Week calendar, Pressiat offers two pre-collections and two presentations per year. It will soon open its e-commerce site and so far has a wholesale network consisting of the following boutiques: H lorenzo (in Los Angeles), Notre (in Chicago), La Collection Particulière, Printemps and Elevastor (in Paris) and Cachemir (in Japon). Its price range is between 400 and 1,800 euros. This article originally appeared on FashionUnited.FR. Translation and edit by: Rachel Douglass. Read more: * Labels to watch: 3 young and responsible fashion brands from Who’s Next * Luxury labels to watch: London womenswear brands to have on your radar * 3 Vintage womenswear labels to watch
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Inditex agrees to 25 percent pay hike, H&M to pay bonuses to store employees

Zara store. Image: Inditex Just before the holidays, fashion giants H&M and Inditex announced that they would pay bonuses to their workers in Spain and Portugal - 500 euros in case of H&M to around 4,000 store employees and 1,000 euros by Inditex to its store employees in Spain. Due to mounting pressure by unions and impending strikes, Inditex agreed to a pay hike of 25 percent (322 euros) on Friday for its workers in A Coruna where the company is headquartered. The companies are reacting to mounting pressure by employees and Spain’s biggest unions, UGT and CCOO, who demand higher pain in view of soaring consumer prices due to inflation. Workers of several industries went on strike in recent weeks, such as air transportation and retail. After around 1,000 workers at Zara stores and other Inditex brands had gone on strike during the busy Black Friday sales week, further strikes on 23rd December and 7th January were announced but then called off.   Bonuses and pay hike from next year While H&M will pay the full bonus next month to all its store employees in Spain who have been with the company at least since January 2022, those who have worked for at least six months will receive 250 euros. Inditex was to pay its bonus in February, depending on the number of hours store employees work, but has since agreed to the pay hike from January 2023. Further increases by 20 euros in November 2023 and 40 euros in 2024 are planned. While H&M announced job cuts despite its cost savings programme, rival Inditex' revenue for the first nine months of 2022 jumped by 19 percent, making Zara founder and Inditex co-founder Amancio Ortega the richest person in fashion and the third-wealthiest person in Europe.
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Jacquemus and Pamela Anderson say Christmas is over, in holiday campaign

Image: Pamela Anderson, Jacquemus SS23, photo by Emmanuel Dunand / AFP Dressed in head to toe white and topped with a faux fur trimmed hat that became iconic in the 1990s when she first wore it, Pamela Anderson in Jacquemus' Holiday campaign is filmed leaving a white washed condominium, towing behind her a Christmas tree. Ms Anderson then walks down a set of steps, pulling the Christmas tree as if it is her beloved pet, and proclaiming ‘Christmas is over, Santa’ when she passes a Santa Claus who says “Joyeux Noël Pamela.” Was that Jacquemus himself dressed as Santa? Perhaps, but the tongue-in-cheek Christmas campaign, which was released on Christmas Day, is a welcome alternative from fashion houses simply shifting products, fragrances and handbags in advertisements, with no message other than self-serving sales. The Paris-based designer has made humour and light-heartedness into a brand persona, often posting personal images, such as that of the wedding to his husband, or home life from his native Marseille and Provence. In September the fast growing French fashion house opened a store on the prestigious avenue Montaigne. View this post on Instagram A post shared by JACQUEMUS (@jacquemus)
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Made.com board to liquidate business following Next acquisition

Image: Made.com Furniture e-tailer Made.com has announced that its board has proposed a formal winding down of the business through a member’s voluntary liquidation. In a regulatory filing, the company said that the proposal represents the best and “most cost effective” option to protect and realise any shareholder value. As part of the decision, appointed liquidators will assess Made’s remaining assets following the completion of the administration. The British group fell into administration last month after putting itself up for sale in September following a slew of supply chain issues and a negatively impacted consumer market that left it in an overstocked position. It came after a number of parties interested in taking over the firm missed its sales process deadline, resulting in the suspension of new customer orders and London Stock Exchange listing. Ultimately, Next stepped up to acquire the brand, as well as its domain names and intellectual property for 3.4 million pounds. While Next has not yet outlined its plans for the company, former Made.com employees announced their intention to take the retailer to court over the way they were made redundant early November. According to the employees, which are being instructed by law firm Aticus Law, they were told over a Zoom call that they would be losing their jobs with immediate effect.
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Ackermann’s Gaultier debut and Balenciaga is absent in Haute Couture Week calendar

Image: Valentino Following on from its Paris Fashion Week Men’s announcement, the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (FHCM) has also unveiled its provisional schedule for the upcoming Haute Couture Week. The event for the spring/summer 2023 season is set to run from January 23 to 26, spanning 30 shows and one presentation, held by Iris Van Herpen. Schiaparelli will open the event with an invitation-only show at 10am, closely followed by Christopher Josse at 11am. Three new brands will be gracing the runway for this season, including Indian label Gaurav Gupta, Morocco’s Sara Chraibi and British brand Robert Wun, which will be closing the show on Thursday. Filling out the schedule is a cohort of names well known to Haute Couture Week, including Chanel, which will be hosting two runway shows, Viktor&Rolf, Giambattista Valli and Christian Dior. A notable addition to the line up is Haider Ackermann’s debut collection for Jean Paul Gaultier. Ackermann was announced as the latest guest designer for Gaultier’s fashion house, following on from the likes of Balmain’s Olivier Rousteing and Diesel’s Glenn Martens. Among the slew of prominent industry leaders, it could also be noted that Balenciaga was very much absent from the calendar. It comes as the brand continues to face backlash over recent controversial campaigns featuring children holding teddy bears sporting BDSM gear.
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Frasers Group acquires JD Sports’ premium fashion brands

Image: Tessuti Mike Ashley’s Frasers Group has announced the acquisition of a number of premium fashion brands that JD Sports Fashion has stakes in. The company has snapped up 15 of the group’s retailers via shares held by JD, with all of the indebtedness to be transferred to subsidiaries of Frasers Group. Brands included in the deal are Tessuti, Base Childrenswear, Missy Empire, Choice, Clothingsites, Cricket, Giulio, Kids Cavern, Nicholas Deakins, Pretty Green, Prevu Studio, Rascal Clothing, Scotts, Watch Shop and Topgrade Sportswear. In a regulatory filing, Frasers said the amount payable for the acquisition of the shares and indebtedness amounts to 47.5 million pounds, which will be funded by the group’s existing cash resources. The completion of the acquisition of several of the remaining businesses, such as Tessuti and Rascal Clothing, is expected to take place in early 2023. It comes as Frasers Group continues to expand its portfolio towards a more premium positioning, a strategy the company has increasingly focused on since the appointment of its new CEO Michael Murray. The group has carried out a slew of acquisitions in the past year, including takeovers of Missguided, Studio Retail and I Saw It First, as well as a series of stake increases in the likes of Hugo Boss and N Brown. JD Sports to focus on sports portfolio Its newest acquisition follows the implementation of a strategic review by JD Sports Group’s chief executive officer, Régis Schultz, who initially said he was carrying out the process in a bid to focus more fully on opportunities across the rest of the group. In a release, Schultz said: “JD is rightly recognised for its laser focus on the customer and we are convinced that the most significant opportunities lie in the continued international development of the group’s global sports fashion businesses. “We are pleased to have agreed the sale of these attractive, but non-core, brands and I would like to express my sincere thanks to all colleagues at the businesses which form part of the transaction for their hard work and contribution to the group over the year.” JD is now set to put all of its attention on the international and digital expansion of its core premium sports fashion labels, which include JD Sports itself, as well as Size?, Foot Patrol and Shoe Palace, among others. According to the group, the divestment will result in a non-cash exceptional charge in its annual accounts for the period to 28 January 2023 of approximately 100 million pounds.
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10 leather trends forecast for 2023

Image: Inverse Leather The leather industry is being revolutionised by new materials and finishes, as innovation disrupts its very essence in this era of climate change. Bio-based materials continue to drive innovation, but so is technology, creating previously unimagined finishes and textures. Other alternatives to bovine leather are getting noticed, too, like leathers created from invasive species, which revive pockets of ecosystems around the planet. This trend outlook for 2023 is compiled by Inversa Leathers, a company founded in 2020 with a mission to develop materials that solve an environmental crisis to protect biodiversity. Padded Padded leather, already championed by luxury houses like Bottega Veneta, will be a key look for early 2023. Texture As flat lengths of leather make their way out of the limelight, textured statements using latest innovative technologies, will be the next talked about leather trend. Eco-friendly leather alternatives From coffee, mushrooms and seaweed to fish and python invasive species, there is now a plethora of eco-friendly materials that designers are using and customers are demanding. Worn out / pull up finish As an increasing number of consumers embrace the height of second-hand clothing cool, designers draw inspiration from the ‘worn out’ effect, creating distressed leather surfaces and plenty of beautiful pull up finishing. Sea skin Vacation themes continue to take us on a journey in the fashion scene so the fantasy of embodying a mermaid has never been so enticing. Sea skin leather effects and sustainable fish skin leather will feature in accessories and outerwear, creating a sleek look that’s coveted by all. Regenerative leather Regenerative invasive leather pioneered by INVERSA Leathers is leading the way for the future of the leather industry. “Sustainable” as a term has become diluted as “greenwashing” has diminished the value of the word and weight of impact needed to use the term. Regenerative textiles ensure the brand is going beyond sustainable and is proactively doing good for the planet. This will become the new talked about topic in 2023. Vegetable tanned vibrant and natural dyes Vegetable tanned leathers will start replacing hazardous chrome-tanned skins, finished with naturally vibrant dyes to create the next wave of eco-friendly and eye-catching leather looks. Metallic and pearlized Leather is a timeless textile but the multitude of finishes it can take keeps the trends rolling, and in 2023 metallic and pearlized finishes will dominate. Exotic prints Fashion has started to reference the contours and textures from raw, natural earth, and will continue to do so in 2023. A variety of animal prints that live in gritty earth such as a python will be showcased in garments and accessories made in natural fibres. As consumers expand their knowledge in sustainable textiles, this trend can overlap with a trend of sourcing regenerative exotic leathers. Wet look (gloss) The wet look trend has made a continuous come back since the 80s, reinterpreted in countless ways using textiles to create illusions. Sensual and figure hugging, this trend embraces the beauty of the human body in all shapes and sizes which supports the industry’s push to be completely diverse in representation. This year, leather will take on the wet look using gloss finishes. Inversa Leather is backed by the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) and supported by the Ocean Risk and Resilience Action Alliance (ORRAA). Its mission is to create a portfolio of Invasive Leathers, each one addressing a unique human-induced crisis to revive ecosystems around the world. For more information visit www.inversaleathers.com
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Black Friday and Christmas sales gave no uplift to retailers

Image: Ron Dauphin vía Unsplash UK retail sales volumes fell by 0.4 percent in November following a rise of 0.9 percent in October when there was a bounce back from the impact of the additional Bank Holiday in September for the State Funeral. Neither Black Friday or the run-up to the Christmas shopping season significantly lifted sales. Figures from the ONS said online retailers sales volumes fell by 2.8 percent last month, continuing a downward trend seen since early 2021, as the wider economy reopened and people could return to shopping in store; they are still 18.2 percent higher than their pre-coronavirus February 2020 levels. While average levels were down, clothing stores saw sales rise by 2.1 percent in November, boosted by footwear, but still remained 2 percent below pre-pandemic levels. Department stores also saw increased sales in November, with several retailers reporting longer Black Friday sales, as offers over the whole month of November potentially contributed to the increase in sales. The higher costs of living were reflected in online spending values, which rose by 0.6 percent, because of monthly increases across all industries except other non-food stores.
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In pictures: Chanel opens immersive fragrance exhibition

Image: Chanel; ‘Le Grand Numéro de Chanel’ Beauty Chanel is celebrating its storied fragrance brands with a festive and immersive exhibit at the Grand Palais Ephémère in Paris until January 9, 2023. ‘Le Grand Numéro de Chanel’ is a tribute to the “world of Chanel fragrances” with a focus on the French luxury house’s most famous scent, Chanel No.5, created in the 1920s. The playful free exhibition aims to heighten the senses and imagination by bringing to life the essence of a holiday window display as a unique sensory experience. Thomas du Pré de Saint Maur, head of global creative resources for fragrance and beauty, fine jewellery and watches, said in a statement: “Chanel perfumery has an existential aim. Le Grand Numéro de Chanel is an emotional journey, an opportunity to discover every facet of a fragrance and the role it plays.” Image: Chanel; ‘Le Grand Numéro de Chanel’ The exhibition is part cabaret, complete with live music and magic tricks, and a museum delving into Chanel’s fragrance history with art installations and archive fashion displays, alongside virtual reality immersions and expert fragrance consultations. Le Grand Numéro de Chanel opens in Paris Image: Chanel; ‘Le Grand Numéro de Chanel’ The largest section of the exhibition goes to Chanel No.5, sharing the history of the fragrance, including an interactive VR experience where visitors travel back in time and play the role of perfumer Ernest Beaux in 1921, and see Gabrielle Chanel select the fifth sample of what is now recognised as one of the world’s most iconic perfumes. Another highlight is a gallery dedicated to art featuring Chanel’s logo, including Andy Warhol, while another room displays Chanel ads, and there is a section dedicated to Coco Mademoiselle set up like a control room showcasing everything from skis to basketballs, knee pads and even a skateboard stamped with double Cs. Image: Chanel; ‘Le Grand Numéro de Chanel’ The Bleu de Chanel room allows visitors to immerse themselves into a multi-sensory world, peering into windows of the buildings and skyscrapers to find clues to access a speakeasy, and Les Eclusifs de Chanel invites guests to view 18 moving works of art where they can complete the scent version of a Rorschach test to find their alter ego among the Chanel fragrances. The exhibition also offers visitors a game of chance, where they can spin a wheel of fortune to win a prize. Image: Chanel; ‘Le Grand Numéro de Chanel’ “A fragrance is more than a name, a bottle, or a scent; it is also everything it brings to mind when we breathe it in, and all it evokes when we wear it,” adds Thomas du Pré de Saint Maur. “It is a spectacular and extraordinary creation. Many people believe that fragrance is an accessory or the finishing touch on a look, but it is so much more than that. Fragrance has a real effect on our feelings, confidence, mood, and desires, and this is what we want everyone to experience.” Image: Chanel; ‘Le Grand Numéro de Chanel’ Image: Chanel; ‘Le Grand Numéro de Chanel’ Image: Chanel; ‘Le Grand Numéro de Chanel’ Image: Chanel; ‘Le Grand Numéro de Chanel’ Image: Chanel; ‘Le Grand Numéro de Chanel’ Image: Chanel; ‘Le Grand Numéro de Chanel’ Image: Chanel; ‘Le Grand Numéro de Chanel’
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Burberry, Puma and Inditex make CDP’s 2022 A List

Image: Burberry x Selfridges The Carbon Disclosure Project (CDP) has revealed the names of companies that have made it to this year’s A List, recognising their transparency and efforts in climate change, forest preservation and water security. Out of the 15,000 companies analysed, each allocated a score of A to D minus, over 330 made it to the nonprofit’s ‘A List’, putting them at the forefront for their comprehensiveness of disclosure, awareness and management of environmental risks and demonstration of leadership in this area. The line up included a number of fashion brands, many of which had a particular focus on climate change. Sportswear brands Puma, a new addition to the list, and Superdry received an A in this section, alongside fast fashion conglomerate Inditex, luxury group Kering, British label Burberry and jewellery brand Pandora. Speaking on its inclusion, Burberry’s VP of corporate responsibility, Caroline Laurie, said: “We are delighted to be recognised on the CDP A List once more, particularly moving up from our previous A- rating to an A, which demonstrates our continued commitment to transparency as we work to achieve our ambitious goals. “However, we know there is more we all need to do to tackle climate change while protecting nature. “Setting stretching targets and calling for greater transparency on progress are key to taking urgent, meaningful action and we will continue to push for greater change across our industry and beyond.” Hermès and Gap received an A for their efforts in water security, while Uniqlo owner Fast Retailing was recognised for both water security and climate change efforts. Meanwhile, a selection of companies received an A for all three categories, including luxury conglomerate LVMH, beauty giant L’Oréal and fibre manufacturer Lenzing. Beauty group Shiseido received an A for climate change and Estée Lauder was recognised for water security. “CDP A List companies are showing they are ahead of the game – taking clear action to reduce emissions and to address environmental impacts throughout their value chains,” said Maxfield Weiss, executive director, CDP Europe.
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Della Valle family scrap plans to delist Tod’s

Photo Credits: Chiara Ferragni in an image from Tod's campaign launched in May 2022. The Della Valle family has said they are stepping back from plans to delist Tod’s as well as their initial plan to merge the fashion group into the family’s DeVa Finance firm. According to a press release from the company, DeVa opted to cancel its proposal following indications it had received from the market which suggested the operation could be “considered hostile” or at least “not market friendly”. In a statement, Diego Della Valle, sole director of DeVa Finance and chairman and CEO of Tod’s, commented: "The price of 40 euros per share offered to the market was the result of a careful analysis carried out with correctness and transparency. “However, we noted that some of our shareholders believed the value of the Tod's group to be significantly higher than our valuation and preferred to remain in possession of their shares. “We are taking this message carefully and as an incentive to pursue our plans, which go through the development of the individual brands and their capital enhancement, which we believe have huge growth potential in the medium term." In October, Tod’s founders were also said to have also scrapped plans for a 344 million dollar buyout of the group after they failed to reach an ownership threshold of 90 percent. The family initially said it was looking to revamp the company in an attempt to attract a younger generation of luxury shoppers, a group it is currently struggling to gain traction with. The Della Valle’s had noted their plans to take the Italian luxury group private was to help boost its financial accounts, while also managing the brands within the group separately.
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Lids reveals new store concept, Lids Hat Drop

Quavo x Lids collection. Image: Lids Sports retailer Lids has unveiled its newest retail concept at the first store in Queens, New York. ‘Lids Hat Drop’ comes as a brick and mortar iteration of an online concept the brand launched under the same name earlier this year. With a focus on hats, from baseball caps to beanies, the space will honour Jamaica, Queens, and its history with hat culture through a community-driven concept, product releases and store programming. Like the e-commerce store, the retail space will offer exclusive and limited-edition drops, including collaborations that link with the surrounding neighbourhood. Visitors to the store will gain first access to new hat drops each Friday, before a collection then comes online. The space will also house a signature Custom Zone, allowing customers to custom-embroider a product of their choice in-store. The new concept is the latest to debut as part of Lids’ expansion of its retail footprint. In July, the brand unveiled a collegiate product focused retail concept in Las Vegas, adding to its already established themes such as Locker Room and its sports team-specific store network. Speaking on the new space, Britten Maughan, president of Lids said in a release: “[Jamaica] is known by headwear enthusiasts as the hat mecca of the US, so the location allows Lids to lean into hat culture while continuing to drive trends through our exclusive releases. “We've seen huge success with LidsHatDrop.com but Lids is a brick & mortar retailer at its core, and this concept is yet another step in our strategy to lead the conversation and become even more ingrained in the hat community."
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Rocky Brands appoints Dwight Smith as class I director

Image: Rocky Boots, Facebook Rocky Brands, Inc. has appointed Dwight E. Smith as a class I director of the company, effective January 1, 2023. Smith, the company said, has served as the president and CEO of Sophisticated Systems, Inc. since July 1990, which he founded to provide businesses with a comprehensive set of information technology solutions ranging from technology deployments and assessments to fully outsourced managed services in areas including cloud computing and cyber security. Prior to founding Sophisticated Systems, Smith served in a variety of roles with Software Alternatives, Inc., Cullinet Software, Inc., and IBM. Commenting on Smith’s appointment, Jason Brooks, the company’s chairman, president & CEO, stated: “Dwight’s executive leadership as the founder and CEO of a successful high-growth business, experience serving on the board of directors of the Federal Reserve Bank of Cleveland, along with other public and privately held companies, and expertise in the technology sector will be incredibly beneficial to our board.” Smith, the company added, has served as a member of the board of The Federal Reserve Bank of Cleveland since 2015 and currently serves as its chair (such term to expire on December 31, 2022). He also has served as a board member of SureImpact since February 2022, Nationwide Children’s Hospital since 2013, as a board member of the Highlights for Children Foundation since 2021, and as a member of the board of trustees of OCLC since November 2022. Smith previously served on the board of directors of State Auto Financial Corporation from 2020 to 2022; Choice Legal, Inc. from 2016 to 2022; State Auto Mutual Insurance Company from 2005 to 2022; and CTL Engineering Inc. from 2005 to 2021. Smith also has extensive prior civic charitable board experience, including The Columbus Foundation, Columbus State Community College, and Rev1 Ventures. Smith graduated from The Ohio State University with a B.S. in marketing and an MBA in finance. Rocky Brands has also announced that Glenn E. Corlett and James L. Stewart are electing to retire from the board of directors, effective December 31, 2022. Corlett has served on Rocky’s Board since 2000, including service as a member of the audit committee (including as the prior chairman of the audit committee) and previous member of the nominating and corporate governance committee. Stewart has served on Rocky’s Board since 1996, including service as a compensation committee member (including as the prior chairman of the compensation committee).
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Zara launches detergent that reduces textile microfibre shedding

The Laundry by Zara Home. Image: Inditex Retail giant Zara has launched a new detergent in partnership with chemical company BASF Home Care, alongside I&I Solutions Europe, which claims to reduce textile microfibre shedding by up to 80 percent. The detergent’s formula was created based on the use of laboratory testing on different textile types and washing conditions. In a release, the Inditex-owned brand said the detergent can also help end users lower their energy consumption by reducing washing temperatures to 20 degrees celsius, as the product is said to be particularly suitable for such settings. Speaking on the launch, Javier Losada, chief sustainability officer at Inditex, said: "Innovation and collaboration are key to meeting the challenges of the textile industry. We strive to be more creative and efficient by driving innovative new technologies. “This project with BASF is a good example of this approach as it shows the effectiveness of cross-industry collaboration and goes one step further as it can be adjusted to extend the use of this technology in the industry." The new product will come under the Zara Home label, and will be available both in the brand’s stores and online across 25 markets, including most European countries. Zara said it is expecting the product to become available in further markets over the coming weeks.
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Pinterest predicts consumer trends for 2023

Image: Pinterest; 'Airy Styles' Beauty Social media platform Pinterest is predicting that romcom core, airy styles, fringing and galactic fits will shape fashion trends in 2023, while for beauty, consumers will be opting for bright hair, micro makeovers, and crown care. Described as a “window into the future,” the ‘Pinterest Predicts 2023’ trend report analyses global search data from September 2020 to September 2022 from the 400 million people using the platform each month to predict what trends next year will bring. Pinterest is also confident about its forecasts, as, over the last three years, 80 percent of its trend predictions have come true. Jenna Waller, head of fashion at Pinterest UK, said in a statement: “Fashion is one of the most popular categories on Pinterest, with millions of people turning to the platform every month to get inspired and to shop. Our annual report is a cheat sheet for fashion brands looking to capitalise on what’s set to be big, before it happens. And it’s not guesswork - it’s based on what we know people are interested in and are planning for. "For 2023, expect a year filled with lace, tulle and ruffles as people ditch loungewear. Anticipate dystopian streetwear taking inspiration from dark cinematic fantasies. Also prepare to see slip dresses, tube dresses and cargo pants back in as ‘Romcom Core’ will also take hold. Brands can tap into these trends and more, to reach consumers with what they really want, and we can’t wait to share our insights with the industry." Image: Pinterest; 'Fringe with Benefits' Pinterest forecasts fashion and beauty trends for 2023 For 2023, Pinterest is predicting that fashion will be very feminine, with airy styles and ethereal detailing such as lace, tulle, ruffles and shimmer fabrications being key trends. This is evident from increased searches year-on-year for shimmery dresses, which is up 365 percent, tulle sleeves increased by 65 percent and lace top long sleeves up 225 percent. This is also a trend for everyone, as searches for ruffle shirts for men also increased by 95 percent. Another key trend will be fringes going mainstream, with Gen X and Millennials taking inspiration from the catwalk to embrace “free-swinging fringed outfits”. With fringe dresses up 225 percent and black fringe skirts up 155 percent, Pinterest also adds that fringing will be a key trend for brides, as searches for fringe wedding dresses increase by 45 percent. Image: Pinterest; 'Romcom Core' For Gen Z and Millennials, it will all be about dressing for their meet cute, as they choose fashion that romanticises their wardrobes inspired by their favourite rom-coms from the 2000s. Romcom Core will see increases in slip dresses, tube tops, cargo pants and claw clips, as searches for 2000s girl aesthetics increase by 235 percent, while pink mini skirt outfit jumps 145 percent. The final fashion trend is ‘Sci-fi fits’ where Gen Z and Millennials with futuristic styles, with searches for dystopian outfits, cyber streetwear, galactic glasses and gamer girl styles expected to spike. Pinterest has seen a 215 percent increase year-on-year for dystopian outfits, while Avant Garde outfits increased by 225 percent and gamer girl look is up a staggering 3,370 percent. Image: Pinterest; 'Crown Care' Beauty trends predicted by Pinterest When it comes to beauty, Gen X and Boomers will be taking it back to their roots by prioritising ‘Skinification,’ a focus on the scalp and crown of your hair, as searches for scalp massage techniques, clean scalp, and natural hair mask all spiked in search data. There will also be a focus on bright ‘Gemini hair,’ with Gen Z and Millennials looking to mix natural hues with bright purples, blues and pinks. Searches for blue and black braids increased by 215 percent, while brown to pink balayage spiked by 280 percent, and pink and lavender hair was up 345 percent. Beauty will also be going small in 2023, as Millennials and Gen Z favour bob haircuts, up 550 percent, and micro-French nails over acrylic nails, as searches increase 235 percent. Other key trends will be micro fringes up 110 percent, short stiletto nails up 80 percent and short braid hairstyles up 45 percent. Image: Pinterest; 'Micro Makeover'
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2022 trends were defined by ‘nostalgia’ Klarna finds

Klarna The Checkout trend report. Image: Klarna Payment service provider Klarna has released the first part of its annual trend report, ‘The Checkout’, which looks into consumer trends over the past year. According to its findings, shopping trends in 2022 revolved around the theme of ‘nostalgia’, with items reminiscent of the 18th century through to the early 00’s seeing sales increases. The report was made in collaboration with trend expert Agus Panzoni, who said the trends pointed to a longing for happier, more carefree times. Five distinct themes have been defined by Klarna, the first of which is labelled ‘Vintage tech’ and refers to simpler, more reliable tech products. Meanwhile, ‘Hyperfemininity’ encompassed Barbiecore, Bimbocore and Balletcore trends, which were driven largely by the 126 percent increase in sales of pink products in August. Other trends looked more at past eras for shopping inspiration, including Y2K, Counterculture, which is rooted in the 80’s, 90’s and 00’s youth movements, and Regencycore, defined by styles inspired by the Victorian and Regency periods. Speaking on the report, Panzoni said: “Inspiration from earlier ages is nothing new but the nostalgic imprint on this year's trends is remarkable. “Against the backdrop of a changing world, it seems people have been escaping to more comfortable territories as the antidote to everyday life.”
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Sephora appoints Sarah Boyd as managing director UK

Image: Sephora Beauty giant Sephora has announced the appointment of Sarah Boyd as the managing director of its UK business. It comes just under two months after the LVMH-owned retailer re-entered the UK market through the launch of an e-commerce site and dedicated campaign. Prior to her appointment, Boyd served as the company’s managing director of SEA & Oceania, as well as vice president, head of markets and new ventures for South East Asia Pacific. In a LinkedIn post, Boyd said: “I am extremely proud and excited to share that I’m starting a new position as managing director at Sephora UK. “Back to my home country, and without a doubt one of the most advanced and discerning beauty markets in the world. “I’m ready to work with the Feelunique team to continue their journey to bring the Sephora magic to the UK. “Leading the SEA & Oceania markets for the past few years has been a great honour and a privilege.” Sephora first entered the UK in 2005, however, quickly closed up shop due to the saturation of the market, which was mostly led by Boots. Its first hint at re-entry came in the form of an acquisition of British beauty e-commerce retailer Feelunique for an undisclosed sum. The platform has now been replaced by Sephora, which utilised the site to launch a dedicated e-commerce space, marking the first phase of its return.
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Patagonia founder to receive Outstanding Achievement Award at 2022 Fashion Awards

Patagonia-owner Yvon Chouinard. Photo: Campbell Brewer Patagonia’s founder and former owner Yvon Chouinard has been announced as an honouree for the 2022 Fashion Awards, where he will receive the Outstanding Achievement Award. During the event, set to be held December 5, Chouinard will be recognised for his creative contributions to the fashion industry. He joins a string of prominent industry leaders who have previously won the award, including the likes of Miuccia Prada, Ralph Lauren and Giorgio Armani. In a release, the British Fashion Council (BFC) said Chouinard was selected for his dedication to environmentalism and his “exceptional vision”. It comes months after the entrepreneur announced he would transfer his family’s ownership of Patagonia to two new entities: the Patagonia Purpose Trust and non-profit organisation the Holdfast Collective, in a bid to channel profits to environmental causes. Chouinard is also the co-founder of One Percent for the Planet, a global movement that counts over 5,000 members, each of which donates one perfect of their income to initiatives protecting the environment. Speaking on the news, Chouinard said: “Being recognised by the BFC sends the message that responsible business practices far outweigh trends or short-term financial gains. “With vision and creativity, the apparel industry is perfectly placed to set the standard for environmental protection – it is our hope that business leaders join us in committing to this work.” Activism is set to run through almost the entirety of this year’s Fashion Awards, with BFC also announcing that British and Jamaican activist and actress Jodie Turner-Smith will be the host of the event. Turner-Smith, who is known for her roles in Anne Boleyn and After Yang, regularly uses her platform to spotlight equality in the industry, as well as the importance of sustainability.
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Babor launches skincare coaching feature with Revieve

Babor Skin Coach powered by Revieve. Image: Revieve German skincare brand Babor has launched a personalised skin coaching experience to support customers after they have made a purchase. Developed in partnership with beauty and wellness tech platform Revieve, ‘Babor Skin Coach’ builds on the brand’s efforts to enhance customer loyalty and commitment by encouraging customers to set skin goals and track changes in their skin following a purchase. After receiving a recommended skincare routine, the feature allows users to create a profile where they can set goals, personalise their progress tracking and access routine and guidance information. Through uploaded monthly selfies, consumers can visually track their progress, while the platform’s guidance will help to trace changes in the skin and continuously recommend products designed to achieve their goals. Babor will pilot the first version of Skin Coach starting December in Germany and all of the brand’s European e-commerce stores, covering Austria, Belgium, Switzerland and the Netherlands. Over time, the company will add more functions and will eventually roll out the feature out into the US. In a release, Sampo Parkkinen, CEO of Revieve, said: "We are delighted to see Babor strengthen its position as customers' first choice in the field of expert skin care by becoming the first brand in Europe that enables Revieve's Skin Coach to drive sustainable customer retention and build a more long-lasting relationship with their customers.” The launch follows the unveiling of Babor’s Digital Skin Advisor, an experience that provides customers with a skin analysis and personalised skincare routine, also powered by Revieve.
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Asos loosens performance targets for exec bonus scheme

Image: Asos Fast fashion e-tailer Asos has altered the criteria for its annual executive bonus scheme to reflect its sharp decline in finances. In a notice on its website, the retailer said the changes were “appropriate” in order to “better align with business priorities”. According to the Financial Times, the new scheme will be applicable to Asos’ new CEO José Antonio Ramos Calamonte, who joined the company in June. It will also affect the next appointed CFO. The publication said the scheme can pay out a maximum of 150 percent of the base salary depending on performance targets in a single financial year. The weighting for revenue in the current year has been cut from the 30 percent, initially stated in its annual report, to 15 percent, while its pre-tax profit has been adjusted from 30 to 25 percent. The move comes as Calamonte looks to cut costs across the company through the adoption of a new, more flexible commercial model. Asos posted a reported loss of 31.9 million pounds on sales, just a one percent increase to 3.94 billion pounds in the year to August 31, 2022. The retailer recently confirmed plans to cut its workforce in a decision it said would affect all parts of the company. It also announced a 100 million pound stock-write off, while also agreeing to a 650 million pound credit facility.
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PVH swings to Q3 loss, but revenue beats estimates

Image: Tommy Hilfiger Tommy Hilfiger owner PVH Corp fell into the red in the third quarter despite stronger-than-expected revenue. The US fashion giant made a net loss of 186.7 million dollars in the period compared to a profit of 279.7 million dollars a year earlier. Revenue of 2.281 billion dollars was 2 percent below the previous year, but 7 percent higher on a constant currency basis. “We are pleased with our third quarter results as we delivered high single-digit constant currency top-line growth,” PVH chief executive Stefan Larsson told investors. “This was ahead of our expectations, despite having to navigate continuing macroeconomic headwinds,” he said. Breaking it down by brand, revenue at Tommy Hilfiger dropped 4 percent, but was up 7 percent on a constant currency basis, while revenue at Calvin Klein was up 1 percent, or up 9 percent at constant currency rates. International business shines “Our international businesses continued to execute well across both brands, even as macro conditions remain challenging in Europe and Covid impacts continued in Asia,” Larsson said. Meanwhile in North America, he said the company is “encouraged by the positive performance indicators we are seeing” although “we recognize that we are in the early stages of a multi-year journey to unlock this region’s full opportunity”. Based on its third-quarter results, PVH expects revenue to be at the top end of its previous guidance range, so it expects to report a drop of around 3 percent, or an increase of 4 percent on a constant currency basis. However, it now expects full-year earnings per share on a GAAP basis of approximately 1.37 dollars, down from its previous estimate of around 7.64 dollars.
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Saul Nash ties fashion, cars and gaming together for new collaboration

Image: Mercedes-Benz; Photography by Justin French, set design by Isabel + Helen and movement direction by Saul Nash In Pictures British fashion designer Saul Nash, who won The Queen Elizabeth II Award earlier this year, has unveiled a limited-edition capsule collection with Mercedes-Benz and SK Gaming. The collaboration, celebrating the 25th anniversary of Mercedes-Benz eSports partner SK Gaming, features two limited-edition pieces designed by Nash, a jacket and a long-sleeved compression T-shirt that combines “the functional demands of everyday sportswear with fashionable style”. The reversible jacket and shirt are designed mostly in black to reflect Mercedes-Benz’s sleek aesthetic, along with feature accents of SK Gaming’s lilac-blue colour scheme. Both are made of recycled polyester, with the compression shirt including lycra for an ideal body-hugging fit, as well as thumb loops, a half-zip on the high-closing collar and an extended back to emphasise “the sporty functionality of the collection”. Image: Mercedes-Benz; Photography by Justin French, set design by Isabel + Helen and movement direction by Saul Nash Saul Nash collaborates with Mercedes-Benz and SK Gaming Commenting on the capsule collection, Nash said in a statement: “This project was an exciting space to explore three worlds that at first instance may not fit together. But the beauty of gaming is that anything is possible as there are infinite possibilities. “It was inspiring to create garments through the lens of Esports, marrying this with the sleek design and exquisite heritage of Mercedes-Benz, whilst envisioning this in the world of movement that I’m grounded in. With performance wear grounded so much in movement, the question was how we could bring gaming which is often a static sport to life through movement.” Image: Mercedes-Benz; Photography by Justin French, set design by Isabel + Helen and movement direction by Saul Nash Julia Hofmann, head of brand collaborations and branded entertainment at Mercedes-Benz AG, added: "Our heartfelt congratulations go to our partner SK Gaming on the 25th anniversary. Every collaboration gains from new impulses, and we are all the more pleased that together with Saul Nash, we have succeeded in creating a new connection between the worlds of fashion and Esports. “With this exclusive collection, we want to appeal not only to Esports enthusiasts, but also to our customers and fans who value an active lifestyle that is functional in everyday life while exuding a modern look." The Saul Nash capsule will be available for pre-order on November 30 via SK Gaming’s website, with prices ranging from 89 to 150 euros. Customers will receive their items in 2023. Image: Mercedes-Benz; Photography by Justin French, set design by Isabel + Helen and movement direction by Saul Nash Image: Mercedes-Benz; Photography by Justin French, set design by Isabel + Helen and movement direction by Saul Nash Image: Mercedes-Benz; Photography by Justin French, set design by Isabel + Helen and movement direction by Saul Nash
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M&S acquires Thread to accelerate its personalisation plans

Image: M&S/Thread British retailer Marks & Spencer has acquired the intellectual property, including the source code and algorithms developed by personalised fashion marketplace Thread to accelerate its personalisation capabilities. In a statement, M&S said that the acquisition will allow it to integrate “cutting-edge proprietary tech” into the M&S website as it looks to accelerate personalisation and deliver a unique customer experience. The personalisation capabilities will stretch across all clothing products available on M&S.com, including the retailer's third-party brand partners. The move comes as M&S states it has generated substantial value through its customer data, personalising offers and product recommendations in recent years, and it is expected that 20-25 percent of all digital interactions will be personalised this year. Outfit recommendations have proved to be valuable for the retailer and it estimates that the ‘frequently bought together’ recommendations are worth an incremental 20 million pounds in revenue over the last 12 months. A figure it expects will increase to more than 100 million pounds of annualised incremental revenue for the business in the coming years. Thread founders join M&S as the retailer acquires the marketplace’s intellectual property Katie Bickerstaffe, co-chief executive at Marks & Spencer, said: “The acquisition of Thread is the perfect example of a ‘buy not build’ approach – enabling us to accelerate our personalisation strategy by integrating the market-leading tech on M&S.com in under 12 months. We’re taking personalisation to the next level to inspire our customers with tailored outfit inspiration. “We have been working hard to deliver better, more stylish ranges and this algorithm will also put more of our great product in front of the customer, whilst further unlocking the potential of our third-party brand strategy, by adding outfit completing product ideas. We already know the incremental value personalisation can bring and we anticipate that personalisation will generate more than 100 million pounds of annualised incremental revenue for the business.” Following the administration of Thread, M&S added that it is hiring 30 of its former data scientists, software engineers and styling and creative teams who will lead the integration and form a new personalised discovery team, within its data and digital function. This includes Kieran O’Neil and Ben Phillips, who founded Thread in 2012. O'Neil, who will join M&S as senior head of product, added: “We have worked for the past 10 years on building the most advanced AI personalisation for online fashion, proven to increase customer conversion and repeat orders. We’re so excited to join forces with M&S; through their infrastructure and support, we’re able to take our market leading technology to the next level, providing a personalised and unique shopping experience for their 30 million customers.”
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Foot Locker CFO to step down in executive team shake-up

Image: Foot Locker Inc. Foot Locker has announced a number of changes to its top team, including the departure of its chief financial officer and the appointment of a new chief operating officer. The New York-based specialty athletic retailer announced Thursday that Andrew Page will step down as CFO following the company's Q4 earnings report. A search for a successor is underway. The company has appointed Elliott Rodgers as new executive vice president and COO. Rodgers currently sits on the board of denim giant Levi’s, and previously spent eight years at Ulta Beauty, most recently serving as chief information officer. Next, Foot Locker veteran Frank Bracken has been appointed as new executive vice president and chief commercial officer. He will also continue to lead the company’s global retail banners, merchandising, and marketing, as well as digital, loyalty, and e-commerce. Additionally, Rosalind Reeves, who is currently Foot Locker’s vice president of talent, diversity, and organization capability, has been promoted to executive vice president and chief human resources officer. And finally, Robert Higginbotham, vice president of investor relations, has been promoted to senior vice president of investor relations and financial planning and analysis. Structural changes Commenting on the shake up, Foot Locker CEO Mary N. Dillon said: “Separating our commercial activities from our supply chain and IT functions will better position Foot Locker to support growth and enhance operating efficiency as we invest in unleashing the power of our leading retail banners by simplifying our operations and expanding our omnichannel, loyalty, and digital capabilities.” The executive changes come after last week Foot Locker upped its full-year outlook after reporting a smaller than expected drop in sales and profit in the third quarter. The retailer made sales of 2.2 billion dollars in the three months to October 29, down 0.7 percent on a reported basis, but up 3.3 percent on a constant currency basis. Its net income came in at 96 million dollars, down from 158 million dollars. The company now expects full-year sales to drop by between 4 percent and 5 percent year-on-year, compared to its previous guidance of between 6 percent and 7 percent.
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Mulberry swings to H1 loss as UK shoppers rein in spending

Image: Mulberry British luxury brand Mulberry has reported a loss in the first half of the year as its UK retail sales were hit by the cost of living crisis. The Somerset-based handbag specialist posted a pre-tax loss of 3.8 million pounds in the six months to October 1, compared to a profit of 10.2 million pounds a year earlier. It came as consumers tightened their purse strings amid economic uncertainty, with retail sales in its home market of the UK dropping 10 percent in the period, while international sales were broadly flat at 17.5 million pounds. On a brighter note, retail sales in China, which has been hit hard in recent years by lockdowns, increased 6 percent despite ongoing restrictions, which contributed to a 1 percent increase in Asia Pacific retail sales. “We have delivered a resilient performance across the group, supported by strong international demand and continued investment in the UK,” chief executive Thierry Andretta said in a statement. Current trading improving Mulberry said there has been an improved trend in retail revenue for the eight weeks to November 26 compared to the prior-year period, but added “there remains ongoing uncertainty in the economic and geopolitical environment”. The company said it expects gross margin in the second half to be maintained at first half levels. Andretta continued: “Looking ahead, we are confident in our ability to execute our strategy and to continue to invest across the group for our future growth, in spite of the challenging economic and geopolitical backdrop. “We are well placed for the festive trading period and will continue to drive the business forward to the benefit of all stakeholders.”
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