Guess, Inc. has revealed the face of its latest campaign: Jennifer
Lopez. The multifaceted cultural icon returns to the company for the Spring
2020 advertising campaign of Guess and Marciano worldwide.
“Whenever I do a collaboration, I always think of a character that I can
play and be and we had a lot of fun doing that with this campaign,” Lopez
shared in a statement. “The vibe this time was a mix between an Italian
film star from the ‘60s, mixed with Madonna from the ‘80s, mixed with Sofia
Loren…The clothes and setting of the shoot really worked well together to
make this campaign come to life.”
The campaign, directed by the chief creative officer of Guess, Inc.,
Paul Marciano, highlights the actor’s iconic brand and the characters Lopez
described.
“I am thrilled to welcome Jennifer back for a second campaign with Guess
and Marciano,” Marciano said. "Jennifer continues to push boundaries in the
music, fashion and film industries and represents everything a Guess Girl
is—confident, sensual and adventurous."
Crocs, Inc. raising its revenue guidance for the fourth quarter ended December 31, 2019 said, it now expects revenue to be between 260 and 262 million dollars, up from its previous guidance range of 245 to 255 million dollars and compared to 216 million dollars in the fourth quarter of 2018. With respect to 2019, the company expects revenues to grow approximately 13 percent over 2018 revenues of 1,088.2 million dollars. With respect to 2020 revenues, the company continues to expect 12 percent to 14 percent growth over 2019 revenues.
“We delivered the strongest fourth quarter in Crocs’ history,” said Andrew Rees, President and Chief Executive Officer of Crocs, adding, “Our positive brand momentum allowed us to deliver strong DTC growth combined with excellent wholesale sell through. Our projected fourth quarter results represent a strong finish to a record year and we anticipate building on our 2019 growth trajectory in 2020.”
Full year adjusted gross margin is expected to be approximately 51 percent, excluding non-recurring charges of approximately 100 basis points associated with the company’s new US distribution centre. On a GAAP basis, gross margin is expected to be approximately 50 percent. Adjusted operating margin is forecasted to be approximately 11 percent, excluding non-recurring charges of approximately 100 basis points associated with the company’s new US distribution centre and certain SG&A costs. On a GAAP basis, operating margin is expected to be approximately 10 percent.
INTERVIEW Established in 2005
by a young entrepreneur from Marseille, Michaël Azoulay, American Vintage
is known for their trademark style of casual cuts and a nuanced colour
range. Today, the American Vintage head office spans 2,200 square metres
and 4,000 square metres of warehouse space as well as outdoor facilities.
Located in the Signe business park, it is forty minutes away from
Marseille, situated on top of a plateau overlooking a cirque of hills all
the while surrounded by a pine forest. FashionUnited recently interviewed
Audrey Lankester by email, the Head of AMV Camp, on the unique use of the
vast space for AMV employees and the brand’s vision for the future.
What is the AMV Camp?
The AMV Camp is the guideline for the brand and is a team of 15 American
Vintage devotees who recruit, maintain, integrate and inform. We keep in
mind the will to create a strong recruitment and training pool, more
importantly to preserve a common ground where history, and human and social
values of AMV is respected and worked upon. The camp is our new challenge,
and it motivates us all equally because we can express ourselves on what we
love: the product & being human.
How did you become the Head of AMV Camp?
I’ve been the Head of the AMV Camp since the beginning of 2019 and was
previously Head of Sales of Global Europe retail for American Vintage for 8
years. I opened more than 110 points of sales in Europe, elaborating the
retail process for AMV and recruiting commercial teams.
I started my journey at the very beginning of the brand, I had just come
back from two years as the Head of Marketing Experience for the woman’s
lingerie brand, I.D. Sarrieri. I lived in Paris, then in eastern Europe.
After ten years, I wanted to come back to my roots which is Marseille,
hence I chose to face this new challenge.
What do you love about your job?
What drives me is that team dynamic, bringing everyone together in a
goal fulfilment mindset.
What is your goal for AMV Camp?
Today, we have more than 800 collaborators, tomorrow we aim to have even
more affiliates and new openings; our main role is to keep the same energy,
values as well as the fresh & dynamic mindset of the house which made us
all at a certain point want to be part of this journey.
Can you tell us how AMV Camp functions?
AMV Camp is positioned on three different angles:
• 1) #THIS IS US
is the communication & the marketing of our teams, putting forward our
front & back collaborators, which is taking care of our LinkedIn network &
the branding that is made around it along with the exchange/gateway with
business and fashion/art schools in general. Our collections are known &
desirable and we wish to have the same reputation for our company.
• 2) #JOIN US AMV CAMP
is the recruitment process & an integration which respects the house
etiquette. This includes the following: Choice- follow up of CVs and
analysis, thanks to a performing tool. AMV’s Recruitment Policy. Team of
recruitment experts that are focused on the training.
• 3) #GROWING TOGETHER AMV CAMP
is the training program of teams with the integration program #ONBOARDING
AMV CAMP. The success of recruitment is at 50 percent during the
collaborator’s integration in the company. A good integration is a certain
involvement and motivation degree from the collaborator and focuses on
loyalty.
Finally, the AMV Camp is the Research & Development of AMV, pilot
projects and best practices. We are all involved: Trainers, Commercial
Agents, Merchandisers collaborate on ideas and projects for the field must
flourish. AMV Camp is a collaborative project, with each and everyone’s
expertise benefiting one another other.
This interview was created in cooperation with American Vintage to promote
working in fashion.
What should retailers stock in 2020? Retail data analysis firm Edited has published a report breaking down the most important runway and lifestyle trends to impact retail in the new year.
Nostalgia will move from the 90s to the 00s
90s nostalgia was one of the most successful fashion trends of 2018 and 2019. Now, as 2020 marks the start of a new decade, this nostalgic feeling is expected to turn from the 90s towards the 2000s, thanks to reboots of series and movies from that decade, such as Legally Blonde, Lizzie McGuire and Gossip Girl. In the luxury sector, Versace gave a nod to 00s nostalgia by reviving the infamous jungle dress worn by Jennifer Lopez in the 2000 Grammy Awards in its Spring 2020 collection.
If 90s nostalgia led logomania, bucket hats and scrunchies to come back to the stores, 00s nostalgia will bring square toes, Mary Janes and micro bags to retailers’ assortment. Pastel shades are also expected to make a comeback, of which lilac is the one we’ll probably see the most: Edited has already registered a 25 percent increase in lilac arrivals for Fall/Winter 2019.
Tokyo Olympics to boost Japanese references
With the 2020 Tokyo Summer Olympics coming up, Edited predicts Japanese art and fashion to be on the spotlight. Expect manga licensing and kawaii culture to start popping up in retailers’ collections.
Make way for a generation of eco-conscious kids
With young activists such as Greta Thunberg making headlines (she was named “Person of the Year” in 2019 by Time Magazine) and teenage celebrities like Billie Eillish trying to reduce their carbon footprint (the singer has partnered with non-profit organization Reverb to make her upcoming tour “as green as possible”), a significant number of teenagers is expected to become more sustainably-minded. This leads them to gravitate toward labels like Patagonia, Everlane and Birkenstock. Edited also predicts them to buy “literal interpretations” of planet Earth, with references to “mother nature” and floral/tropical prints.
Bye bye, suit and tie: workwear for men goes the casual route
Remember when Virgil Abloh made casual versions of the suit and tie on his Fall/Winter 2019 menswear collection for Louis Vuitton? The designer also signed a streetwear collection with Mr. Porter titled “Modern Office”, inspired by the new generation of workers and their workplaces. Now that even Goldman Sacks has relaxed their dress code, we can expect smart casual pieces to replace the suit and tie more and more, leading retailers to adjust to this new reality. Marks & Spencer, for example, has already cut back its tailoring assortment.
“The Spring 2020 runway was inundated with unstructured and loose fit tailoring”, noted Edited in its report on 2020 trends, mentioning Dior and Fendi as examples. Bombers, overshirts and coach jackets are likely to replace the blazer, while polo shirts and jersey basics will replace the shirt.
Dior Spring/Summer 2020
The data analysis firm also predicts the rise of performance workwear as a reaction to longer commutes and the increasing use of the bicycle as a means of transport in big cities. Fabrics featuring stretch, moisture-wicking and waterproof qualities are set to join the workwear market as well.
Images: Boohoo Facebook, Forever21 Facebook, Versace SS20 via CatwalkPictures, Asos Facebook, H&M Facebook, Everlane Facebook, YNAP newsroom, Dior Homme SS20 via CatwalkPictures
IN PICTURES Florence -Iconic Italian fashion designer Stefano Pilati revealed his
first independent venture, called ‘Random Identities’, in Florence on Thursday evening.
Guests of the fashion show entered into a surreal scene: The Stazione Leopolda, one of Florence’s oldest train stations, was bare but for a rectangular collection of lights hanging from the ceiling and casting a glowing red catwalk against the stone floor.
As the lights shifted to white and against a backdrop of long and deep cello chords, models walked out in Pilati’s newest work, a collection of ready-to-wear primed for our digitized era.
The iconic designer's contemporary work combines his unique expertise in design, tailoring, and silhouettes, with his label’s menswear-oriented garments, resulting in a bold provocation controlled by monochromatic colour choices and stark detailing; a balance of refined, rigid cuts with everyday wearability.
Random Identities first collection debuts in Florence
Talking of his latest collection, Pilati, who has made a name for himself in the world of fashion with an illustrious career working across top fashion houses including Armani, Prada and Yves Saint Laurent, said: “This ‘power of silence’ is in direct contrast to the disruptive maximalism and its insistence on creating generations of ‘aspiration’ which I find obsolete, inelegant and counterproductive, especially in an era in which other forms of investment in oneself require an inner and outer balance of how we are used to presenting ourselves.”
Pilati continued: “Random Identities is my answer, with a fluid and versatile attitude, to the need of defining oneself without marking oneself - by appreciating this proposal, it can continue to evolve and self-create.
“Time is the current luxury; I do not want to give away mine to respond to institutionalised anxieties. I’d rather stop and evolve it differently.”
L Brands, Inc. reported net sales of 3.906 billion dollars for the nine weeks ended January 4, 2020, compared to 4.072 billion dollars for the same period ended January 5, 2019. L Brands said in a statement that comparable sales decreased 3 percent for the period under review.
The company reported net sales of 12.113 billion dollars for the 48 weeks compared to net sales of 12.457 billion dollars for the 48 weeks ended January 5, 2019. Comparable sales decreased 2 percent for the period.
The company expects to report fourth quarter earnings per share of about 1.85 dollars compared to its previous guidance of about 2 dollars.
Picture:L Brands media resources
Macy’s, Inc. has announced that comparable sales on owned basis for the months of November and December 2019 rose 0.7 percent, while on owned plus licensed basis, comparable sales were up 0.6 percent.
“Macy’s, Inc.’s performance during the holiday season reflected a strong trend improvement from the third quarter. Our digital business and Growth150 stores performed well. Additionally, customers responded to our gifting assortment and marketing strategy, particularly in the 10 days before Christmas,” said Jeff Gennette, chairman and chief executive officer of Macy’s, Inc.
Picture:Facebook/Macy's
American luxury label Halston has confirmed that Robert Rodriguez has
been named as its new chief creative officer and will unveil his first
ready-to-wear and eveningwear collections in New York in June for the
pre-spring 2021 season.
Rodriguez, who closed his own signature brand last year, began his
career at the house of Christian Dior New York in 1990 as an assistant
fashion designer, before taking a position as design director for the
contemporary brand, Laundry by Shelli Segal, in Los Angeles and was later
appointed artistic design director.
Commenting on his appointment, Rodriguez said in a statement: “I am
honoured and delighted to be part of Halston. Roy Halston Frowick was the
creator of luxury American fashion. It is with great respect and admiration
that I continue to lead the legacy and his iconic signature.”
Andrea Scoli, president of Halston, added: “I always thought Robert
Rodriguez was the perfect choice for leading the Halston brand. Having
worked with him for so many years, I truly felt that his aesthetic and
vision for Halston would be an asset to us in supporting our future growth.
I am honoured to be working with such an incredible visionary.”
The move follows Halston entering into a licensing agreement with Groupe
JS International to produce and distribute sportswear and dresses under the
Halston label.
Robert Rodriguez joins Halston as chief creative officer
Mitchell Hops, chief executive of Groupe JS International, said:
“Halston is an iconic American brand that has truly made its mark in
fashion. Rodriguez’s expertise and aesthetic will blend effortlessly with
Halston’s signature designs and help elevate the brand to a new level. We
are confident that under his direction, Halston will continue to grow and
succeed.”
Halston was found by Roy Halston Frowick in the 1960s and was originally
known for his innovation in millinery. Halston used his signature materials
of jersey, cashmere and suede to reinvent the jumpsuit, the shirtdress, and
the classic caftan, and this led to the 1970s era of Studio 54 becoming
synonymous with Halston’s designs.
There have been many who have tried to reinvent the Halston label
through the years, including Marco Zanini, Marios Schwab and Sarah Jessica
Parker, and most recently Marie Mazelis who departed the label after seven
years.
In the past the luxury American label has been focused on evening
dresses, attracting the likes of Gisele Bundchen and Halle Berry among its
admirers, however, Rodriguez will also be tasked with launching the brand’s
debut sportswear collection.
Halston is currently available at a number of high-profile retailers
globally including Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, Net-A-Porter and
Harvey Nichols.
Image: Halston Facebook
At the beginning of the year, quite a few sustainability initiatives
were announced. From brands, retailers to manufacturers, everyone wants to
be in on circularity, recycling and in general, running one’s business more
responsibly. It is heartening to see sportswear brands taking the lead and
presenting recyclable and eco friendly sneakers and other products.
FashionUnited has put together 23 such efforts that were announced in the
first four months of the year 2019.
H&M brand Monki announced a sustainable swimwear line made from
recycled polyester and recycled polyamide in April. The brand promised a
retro-inspired collection, marked by shoulder frills, cut out details,
leopard prints, citrus fruit prints and golden beige hues.
American brand Ralph Lauren announced its newest style in its Ralph
Lauren Polo line in April, aptly called the Earth Polo and crafted from
thread derived entirely from recycled plastic bottles. Each shirt is also
dyed in a way that it does not use any water.
Swedish multinational retailer H&M Group has started trying out sales of
second-hand and vintage clothing online in April this year, as part of its
commitment to increasing sustainability initiatives. The company launched a
test for second-hand e-commerce on the Swedish website of its
brand.
Global sportswear brand Adidas has strengthened its commitment to
tackling plastic waste with the unveiling of Futurecraft.Loop in April
2019, its first 100 percent recyclable performance running shoe.
Futurecraft.Loop is Adidas's first running shoe that is made to be remade.
Japanese multinational Asics that produces footwear and sports
equipment, announced plans at the end of January to use recycled clothing
to make the official uniforms for the Japanese Olympic and Paralympic teams
at the Tokyo 2020 Summer Olympics. This initiative was a contribution
towards a sustainable society in line with the UN’s Sustainable Development
Goals and its target to reduce CO2 emissions by 2030.
Reformation, the American sustainable, vertically-integrated women's
clothing brand, launched an innovative new campaign called Carbon is
Canceled in February 2019. The campaign uses retail credits to incentivize
consumers to opt for renewable energy options in their homes.
British online retailer Savile Row joined the war on plastic as it
announced 100 percent recyclable and compostable packaging for its shirts
in March. For online orders, there are 100 percent recyclable paper bags
made from potato starch in a bid to reduce the company’s carbon
footprint.
American footwear brand Sperry launched an ongoing sustainability
project called "Look Good, Do Good" in March. The initiative brings
together a new collection of shoes made from recycled plastic with an
education program on reducing the use of plastic.
American footwear and orthopedic foot care brand Dr. Scholl's announced
in April that the company was investing in sustainable, eco-conscious
designs to create environmentally lower-impact shoes. The brand is taking a
step towards making shoes using eco-conscious materials, finding ways to
reduce packaging, and choosing sustainable processes when
possible.
Photo: UN Alliance for Sustainable Fashion
website
Together with various partners, the United Nations launched the UN
Alliance for Sustainable Fashion at the UN Environment Assembly in Nairobi,
Kenya in March 2019. The Alliance seeks to halt the environmentally and
socially destructive practices of fashion, pointing to the fact that the
fashion industry is the second-biggest consumer of water and is responsible
for 8-10 percent of global carbon emissions - more than all international
flights and maritime shipping combined.
Spanish fast fashion giant Inditex (Zara, Pull & Bear, Bershka,
Stradivarius) announced a multi-year agreement with the Massachusetts
Institute of Technology (MIT) in March to conduct joint research on
sustainability and recycling of textile materials, as well as new lines of
research related to data analysis.
Austrian fiber manufacturer Lenzing and Belgian chemical group Solvay
announced their partnership in March 2019 to launch a new sustainable
fabric combining Tencel’s lyocell fibers and Amni Soul Eco, a biodegradable
polyamide.
At the Ispo Munich 2019 fair held in February, it was evident that the
sportswear industry was getting serious about sustainability, and more and
more brands were pushing the hot topic to the top of their agenda. Ispo
Munich offered exhibitors and visitors the best of winter weather this
year, with heavy snow creating a white winter landscape.
German fashion designer Yolanda Zobel quits fashion label Courreges Friday, less than two years after she was brought in to
revive the French fashion label.
Her departure comes just a month before she was meant to show her latest
autumn winter collection at Paris fashion week.
Courreges said she was leaving after they "mutually decided to end their
collaboration".
She would now "focus on new creative projects", the brand added in a
statement.
Zobel -- who drew inspiration from Berlin's dance scene -- was seen as a
breath of fresh air when she was brought in in February 2018 to rethink the
brand, best known for its 1960s futuristic look.
Zobel brought sustainable fashion vision to Courreges
She vowed to bring Courreges back to its mould-breaking roots and create "a
whole new universe for a free human... engaged and yet able to indulge in
liberating moments of fun."
Zobel quickly made headlines by promising to do away with the space-age
vinyl that has been the label's stock and trade since its foundation in 1961
by French engineer Andre Courreges and his wife Jacqueline.
She launched a numbered capsule collection called "Fin de Plastique" (The
End of Plastic) that counted down its stocks of vinyl, promising to replace it
with a sustainable version of the shiny fabric.
Yet she struggled to create a new personality for the brand -- whose look
so defined early 1960s rebellion -- although her last collection, shown on a
canal barge in Paris, was praised by critics.
Courreges said her final collection, for autumn winter 2020, will be
presented at the end of January.
The daughter of a jewellery creator, Zobel made her name working for
Giorgio Armani, Chloe, Jil Sander and the avant garde Acne Studios.(AFP)
2020 is here and we still don’t have flying cars, but technology has
changed our daily lives in ways never expected by previous forecasts. Going
beyond devices, technology altered our reality from how we interact with
each other, how we learn, how we dress and so much more.
Tech companies are turning to clothing, but not necessarily to fashion.
The time is now for the fashion industry to keep up on those new
technologies and be able to respond to future demands. “We will all need to
become lifelong learners”, it was stated in the Jobs of the Future
report at the World Economic Forum. According to fashion tech agency, The
Powerhouse, the European Union has agreed on a 2020 Digital Education
Action Plan to stimulate, support and scale-up purposeful use of digital
and innovative education practices in Europe.
Recently, the fashion industry has noticed the shortage of a qualified
workforce in craftsmanship for luxury goods while major companies have
decided to solve this issue by establishing in-house academies. Ralph &
Russo launched a couture apprenticeship programme. LVMH’s Institut des
Métiers d’Excellence incorporates practical learning and a formal
qualification. Kering has two schools of artisanship, and Gucci opened a
private school in Florence. Tommy Hilfiger Global and PVH Europe are
committed to achieving 100 percent 3D apparel design by their Spring 2022
collections. To accomplish that, they are creating an academy dedicated to
training professionals for the new fashion industry, called Stitch Academy
which is part of the Hatch Studio.
A post shared by Suzy Menkes (@suzymenkesvogue) on
It seems that traditional MBAs may also expire in a few years, as they have become too long and less interesting for new professionals. Instead, having on-demand degrees could increase the appeal for post-grad school and better prepare students in non-traditional fields by mixing areas of interest. Short term post-grad courses offered by traditional schools are leading this education trend. Polimoda in Florence, one of the top fashion schools in the world, is offering a master’s degree in Digital Fashion, with mentoring by The Powerhouse's CEO and founder, Lisa Lang. The program covers a cross-field experience to train future Chief Innovation Officers for major fashion houses, in only nine months.
Photos: screenshot of the Stitch Academy website, suzymenkesvogue Instagram
INTERVIEW Born in Bahia and raised in Rio de Janeiro, Sergio Mattos travels through the Brazilian and international fashion scene with relaxation and seriousness. In 31 years of continuous work, he was responsible for the discovery and career of several famous models, from Isabeli Fontana to the current actor Cauã Raymond and Gisele Bündchen. According to Mattos it was through Gisele that he realized that personality is sometimes more significant than a millimetrically perfect face. Read the interview he exclusively gave to FashionUnited.
You started at the Elite Agency in '88 as a booker. Since then you have stood out among bookers, set up your agency (40 Degrees) in 2004 and until today you are very renowned in the fashion business. To what do you credit all this success?
I think it's because I love what I do, always have. I have also always dedicated myself to everything I set out to do, whether it be discovering models, or "book" for work or sending models abroad.
Which models have you enjoyed working with the most and why?
Cauã Reymond, Paulo Zulu, Carlos Casagrande, João Vellutini, Daniella Sarahyba, Ana Beatriz Barros, Isabeli Fontana, Gisele Bündchen, Maria Fernanda Cândido, Carla Barros, Georgia Worthman, Márcio Garcia, Rodrigo Hilbert, Raica, Danah Costa and Walter Rosa, because they have always been very professional and polite.
What do you feel most proud of from your entire professional career?
Gisele, Cauã, and many others that I discovered and ended up having great success, either on the catwalks and photos or on TV like Agatha Moreira, Pablo Morais, Juliana Paiva, Beatriz Arantes, Rômulo Arantes, Felipe Roque, Mariana Rios among so many others.
Today, there is much talk about diversity not only in matters of race, but also in respect to age and physical disabilities. What do you advise for beginner bookers to form a more diverse portfolio of models? What would be important to observe?
We must always be careful, especially with this segment to have a lot of respect for the dignity and sensitivity of each person because we deal with people. Fashion today is more democratic and not only accepts, but also requires people outside the "catwalk" standard; the plus-size models, for example, are already pumping in the international market and brands are increasingly betting on diversity.
Besides the topics such as diversity, sexual and moral harassment which has been much discussed, especially in the creative and fashion industry. What do you think about it?
It is always good that fashion raises the necessary flags and moral and sexual harassment is in the sights of the world's press and there are no more excuses. Harassment is reprehensible and a corny act! Harassment is harmful and must be fought.
What steps does a booker have to take to avoid problems like these? How can models protect themselves from embarrassing situations?
We always advise models and actors to be transparent and tell us any problems that happen in any job or selection. We are very careful with this issue.
What qualities should a model have?
It depends, if it is a commercial model, to have expressiveness is fundamental. If you're a catwalk model, have the body type that wear clothes well. Actors and actresses need a lot of study, a lot of reading. I always say that before applying to be a model, you have to know yourself a lot, see which angles you favor in photos and movies.
What qualities should a good booker develop?
Clinical eye to understand market trends and sensitivity to deal with the egos of both models and customers. As I have said before, we are always dealing with people and that means valuing and being attentive to the respect and dignity of each one.
Looking back, how do you see the fashion industry today?
The industry is changing a lot, especially with social networks, people are more exposed, everything is easier and faster, visibility is impressive and therefore care must be doubled. There are many "fakes" in this universe. It is worth remembering that there are many fake talent scouts, fake invitations, fake agencies and all the care is little. It is necessary to know how to separate the weeds from the wheat!
This article was originally published on FashionUnited BR. The text has been translated and edited for an international audience.
Photos: Reinaldo Hingel, courtesy of Sergio Mattos and Carla Reichert
The Gucci Diversity and Inclusion Design Fellowship program was launched
in 2019 with the aim of enabling leading fashion schools around the world
to create opportunities for international talent and to create a more
diverse culture within Gucci. The brand has selected a total of ten
countries, including Ghana, Nigeria, South Africa, the United Arab
Emirates, Mexico, the United States, Japan, China, Kenya, and South Korea
by partnering with the best educational institutions in each nation.
A total of 11 students from each country have been selected consisting
of 5 alumni from Esmod Dubai and one third year student from Esmod Seoul,
Park Hong-Geun. Park and Lorena Alonso Moreno (Esmod Dubai) will join
Gucci's Alessandro Michele in March 2020 along with 9 designers from the
other selected schools.
The decade closes and took with it it’s signature feminine silhouettes and
accessories. From the Bekett wedge sneaker from Isabel Marant to the long
pleated skirt from Dior, including the shoulder jackets from Balmain, the
army trend and the influential minimalist-intellectual wardrobe from Phoebe
Philo for Celine, FashionUnited has picked up the pieces and the most
memorable trends launched between 2010 and 2019.
2010 - 2012: Mad Men silhouette, wedge sneakers and 'balmainmania'.
The decade opens with the influence of an American series with a
polished aesthetic: Mad Men. The Fifties and Early Sixties wardrobe of
women's roles left their mark on the minds and gave rise to desires for
flared silhouettes. Prada's fall-winter 2010 collection sets the example by
proposing a retro look, with hair pulled back into a voluminous bun and a
pronounced waist.
As fashion embraces the look of Joan Holloway and Peggy Olson - heroines of
Mad Men - Isabel Marant's studio on rue de Charonne is designing a sneaker
for her fall-winter 2010 collection that will be copied many times: the
Beckett sneaker. A sneaker with velcro, whose wedge heel is hidden in the
design of the shoe for a trompe-l'oeil effect.
Launched a few seasons back at the time, the "balmainmania" is still
present in 2010. Structured shoulders and a slim silhouette define the
codes of Christophe Decarnin's wardrobe, then Balmain's artistic director.
The khaki fracs and the officer's jacket with the glittering shoulders of
the spring-summer 2010 parade will strongly contribute to the army
trend.
But the green colour is not the only one to be at the top of the list in
early 2010. Under the influence of the Chloé parades by Hannah MacGibbon,
camel also colours the streets of fashion capitals. The creative director
will also give desires of large beige capes and long nude coats.
In the semantic field of comfort: Celine's new creative director joins
the iconic luxury house: Phoebe Philo and her minimalist, cerebral and
demanding lines. The refined contours of her silhouettes, as well as those
of her accessories, will be copied by all the major ready-to-wear chains.
The English designer will notably make Celine leather goods a commercial
success. Among the iconic bags: the Classic bag (created in 2009), a
compact size, free of frills.
Photo : via adidas.com
2012 - 2014: Stan Smith, leather perfecto jackets, and cerebral
minimalism
In 2012, the equipment manufacturer Adidas announces the end of the
marketing of its unisex sneaker: the Stan Smith. The model, which has been
renewed every season since its creation in the 1960s, hasn't had its last
word, however. In 2014, the brand will relaunch its marketing and offer it
the destiny we know today. Reinterpreted in a white version, punctuated by
a green tongue, the shoe is unanimously acclaimed and definitively bury the
ballerina model. From now on sneakers can be worn with everything, jeans,
skirts as evening dresses.
For the top half, the leather jacket has become a must since Hedi Slimane
took over the reins of the House of Saint Laurent. The rock aura and the
androgynous allure of the influential designer materializes in a mass
market version in this small leather piece, short and with a bias zip.
Note: the high waist slim jeans, characteristic of Slimane's narrow
silhouettes, are also making their mark.
In 2012, the artistic duo Humberto Leon and Carol Lim, newly arrived at
Kenzo, will launch the tiger sweatshirt. A success. Their surrealist and
whimsical vocabulary, illustrated with wild animals or with an esoteric eye
will be a recipe for success.
Another cosy piece of the moment: the plaid scarf. Its ample and long
format is closer to that of a blanket than a clothing accessory, but it is
nevertheless wrapped around the neck that this piece of great cold is seen
in the metropolises. A look similar to the one that model Werner Schreyer
wears on the Louis Vuitton autumn-winter 2012-2013 campaign.
As for footwear, the comfort imposed by the unanimous
wearing-of-sneakers finds a new formula in the combination of Birkenstock
sandals worn with socks. Combined with a long, flowing trench coat, the
bold association will be immortalized in a fashion series published by the
Paris edition of Vogue magazine in 2013. From then on, the trench coat with
the airy drop becomes an "it".
2014 - 2016: Kanye West, streetwear and fur moccasin
In 2014, fashion is blurring the codes even more and mixing casual and
dressy wardrobe. Jogging becomes a suit, worn at the office, paired with a
pair of white Stan Smith. In wool, mottled grey or chic fleece, the new
piece is called jogging pants. It introduces one of the most important
turning points in fashion since the beginning of the millennium: the
popularisation of streetwear and its introduction into the luxury
sector.
Photo : Adidas Originals x Kanye
West
Rapper Kanye West's first collaboration with Adidas in 2015 also helped
lay the foundations for the streetwear era. This collaboration, entitled
"Yeezy Season 1"mainly consisted of pieces in the army style and large
sweaters with holes.
Present in the 2015-2016 winter collection of Saint Laurent Paris, the
bomber succeeds the perfecto. Ample and enveloping, satin or matt, its
comfort and its reference to the military style seduce.
At Gucci, in January 2015, a designer entered: Alessandro Michele. Its
heterogeneous universe will notably give birth to the reinterpretation of
the Gucci moccasin, trimmed with fur.
2016 - 2018: pleated skirt, bulge and corduroy
Dior AW19
In 2016, Dior appoints a new artistic director: Italian Maria Grazia
Chiuri. Her style will breathe freshness into the French luxury house, and
she will be the subject of much criticism - notably for the lack of a
couture spirit in her collections and the mercantile use of feminist
slogans displayed on her t-shirts. Anyway, her dancer silhouette composed
of a long pleated tulle skirt + casual t-shirt works. The look may not
revolutionize fashion, but her princess outfits with a marked waist will
influence the mass market. The pleated skirt will also be reviewed
and corrected by Alessandro Michele in an iridescent version before
becoming, for a while, an essential classic.
The straight cut, even loose, thick ribbed velvet trousers will become a
gimmick for the winter 2017 season. Marc Jacobs, Nina Ricci and Dries Van
Noten, among others, are incorporating the cozy material into their
collections.
During these years, fancy faux fur coats reach the dimension of a trendy
piece. Young brands such as Shrimps set the trend with coloured and/or
printed pieces for a guilt-free wear, far from the rock-bohemian fur
proposed by Isabel Marant at the beginning of the decade.
Photo : Celine PE20,
Catwalkpictures
2019: micro-bag and neo-bcbg trend
In 2019, the scale of accessories will shrink to midget sizes. The initial
idea came from Jacquemus, the French designer and founder of a flourishing
fashion house. A micro version of his "Chiquito" bag, the accessory is
closer to a pendant than a handbag, but the formula is convincing and is
being emulated. Many other brands will copy the idea with varying degrees
of success.
When he arrived at Celine in February 2018, designer Hedi Slimane struck
again. In recent seasons, the designer has made a name for himself by
proposing a neo-bourgeois clothing vocabulary tinged with the 70's spirit:
culottes, lavaliere shirt, wide-brimmed hat and turtleneck.
This article was originally published on FashionUnited.FR, translated and edited by Kelly Press.
Photos : Gucci - Acne studio - Balmain - Celine, Isabel marant -
kenzo
Facebook - Prada par CHRISTOPHE SIMON, AFP - Dior - H&M Facebook - Saint
Laurent Facebook
Macy’s, Inc. has announced that comparable sales on owned basis for the months of November and December 2019 rose 0.7 percent, while on owned plus licensed basis, comparable sales were up 0.6 percent.
