Who is Chloé's new creative director Chemena Kamali?

Chemena Kamali, new creative director of Chloé. Credits: Chloé, photo by David Sims.



For Chemena Kamali, the appointment as creative director of Chloé marks a return to her fashion roots. But who is the newly minted designer of the French luxury fashion house that will follow in the footsteps of Gabriela Hearst?


The name Kamali was probably not an instant household name to most people before her appointment on Monday, however, the 41-year-old from Düsseldorf, Germany, has been working behind the scenes of various renowned fashion houses for more than 20 years.


The choice of designers like Kamali, who has so far mostly demonstrated her skills in silence, is currently gaining in appeal in fashion. In recent years, major luxury fashion brands - with the exception of Pharrell Williams at Louis Vuitton - have seemed increasingly reluctant to hire already established designers. Rather, the tactic of paving the way for talents from their own ranks or promising design directors from other brands is currently proving successful, as was the case with Matthieu Blazy at Bottega Veneta, Sabato De Sarno at Gucci or Peter Hawkings at Tom Ford, among others. Seán McGirr is another recent example of a new arrival alongside Kamali. The recently appointed successor to Sarah Burton as creative director of Alexander McQueen has so far mostly acted behind the scenes.


From Trier, via London to Paris




Both Kamali and McGirr studied at Central Saint Martins fashion school in London under the late Professor Louise Wilson, a driving force and mentor to many English fashion designers, such as Alexander McQueen and Phoebe Philo.


Kamali's fashion journey, however, began in Germany, where she studied fashion design at the Trier University of Applied Sciences, according to the industry magazine WWD. This was followed by an initial and obviously formative period at Chloé under then creative director Philo, who was at the helm of the French fashion house from 2001 to 2006, before Kamali graduated with honours from Central Saint Martens with a Masters in Fashion Design in 2007. Stints at luxury fashion brand Alberta Ferretti and Strenesse followed over the years, before her initial return to Chloé in 2013 - this time as design director during Clare Waight Keller's time as creative director.


It is unclear exactly when Kamali left Chloé for the second time, but it was the German designer who, together with designer Lucio Finale, replaced then creative director Alber Elbaz for the autumn/winter 2016 collection at luxury fashion house Lanvin. Shortly after, she joined Saint Laurent as Women's Ready to Wear design director alongside then newly minted creative director Anthony Vaccarello. Earlier this year, the designer moved to Los Angeles to support denim brand Frame as a creative consultant for the autumn/winter 2023 collection.


Now the designer is back in Paris, and not too surprisingly, as Kamali was rumoured to be the first choice for the role of creative director at Chloé even before Hearst's official departure. Since July, reports initiated by the industry magazine Business of Fashion had been circulating about a parallel design studio headed by Kamali at the French luxury brand, even if it was still unclear at the time whether this actually pointed to Hearst's departure. For the creative director-designate, however, her return seems both natural and an absolute affair of the heart. "My heart has always belonged to Chloé," Kamali said in a statement on Monday. "Ever since I stepped through the doors more than 20 years ago. Coming back feels natural and very personal."


Chloé continues to focus on women's voice in the industry




The appointment of Kamali not only joins the current preferred choice of hidden talent, but also adds to the perennial debate about the fashion industry being dominated by male designers, especially given the history of them mostly designing ready-to-wear collections for women.


Although the design studios of industry giants such as Chanel and Dior are currently headed by women, with Virginie Viard and Maria Grazia Chiuri, the field of female creative directors is conspicuously thin on the ground. Little wonder then that the appointment of McGirr to succeed Sarah Burton at Alexander McQueen sparked a heated debate in the fashion industry, because with him, all the top creative positions at McQueen's parent company Kering, which also owns Gucci, Givenchy and Saint Laurent among others, are now held by white men.


In contrast, Chloé has been run by women since its inception - with a few, but all the more famous, exceptions such as Karl Lagerfeld - since it was founded by Gaby Aghion in 1952. These women, including Aghion, Philo, Hearst, Keller and Stella McCartney, are celebrated in the exhibition "Mood of the Moment: Gaby Aghion and the House of Chloé" at the Jewish Museum in New York, which will open its doors on 13 October.


The fashion industry will have to wait a little longer to catch a first glimpse of Kamali's vision for Chloé. Her first pre-fall collection will be unveiled in January, before a runway debut for autumn/winter 2024 in February. However, Chloé CEO Riccardo Bellini is already optimistic: "Chemena's vision, inspired by her love for the brand, will truly celebrate Chloé's unique DNA. Chemena is both the creative director of Chloé and the embodiment of the spirit of Chloé."


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JD Sports new CFO assumes position

JD Sports storefront. Credits: JD Sports.



The new chief financial officer for JD Sports, Dominic Platt, has assumed his position, succeeding Neil Greenhalgh, who announced his intention to resign in October 2022.


Platt’s appointment was first announced back in May of this year, however his exact date of entry into the company had not yet been disclosed.


Also becoming a member of the board, he joins JD from financial consultancy BGL Group, where he worked after serving in a series of senior financial roles at Darty Plc in years prior.


At the time of the announcement, Régis Schulz, CEO of JD, said: "We are delighted to welcome Dominic to JD. He brings strong international and public company expertise and a wealth of experience in consumer-focused businesses.


“Having worked closely with Dominic before, I am certain his financial expertise, deep knowledge of governance and strategic counsel will be crucial in helping to drive forward the next chapter in the global growth story of JD.”


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Sole Searching: the eco-footprint of sneakers

Nike refurbishes and resells gently worn shoes and posts product care tips online to help consumers extend their sneakers’ lifespan Credits: Nike



Pick up any pair of sneakers and their reliance on plastics and fossil fuels becomes instantly apparent. From Nike to New Balance, high fashion to high street, sneakers are the bain of footwear’s environmental footprint. With copious drops, never-ending new releases of new models and high use of virgin materials in production means much of the environmental impact is done at the manufacturing stage.


The choice of materials in sneakers is underpinned by practical considerations.




There is a reason why footwear is made of these materials. Plastics, particularly synthetic rubber and polyurethane, stand out for their unprecedented durability. They exhibit resilience against the wear and tear associated with both athletic activities and everyday wear, making them the preferred materials for sneaker soles and uppers. Additionally, sneaker manufacturers extensively employ various types of foams and cushioning materials derived from petrochemicals to deliver comfort and support. These materials excel at shock absorption and cushioning, enhancing the wearability of sneakers during prolonged usage, but they also harm the environment.


Sneakers notoriously have relatively short lifespans compared to other fashion categories, posing a growing concern related to waste disposal. Sneaker soles are typically attached to the shoe's upper using strong adhesives and cannot be replaced. This bond is meant to be permanent and is difficult to break without causing damage to the sole or upper. Furthermore, sneaker manufacturers often design their shoes to be disposable, encouraging consumers to purchase new pairs rather than repair old ones. This business model discourages easy sole replacement.


In response to consumer demands for more sustainable alternatives with reduced reliance on petrochemical-based materials, secondary fashion markets have experienced a surge in popularity. Among these markets, the pre-owned sneaker sector has witnessed notable growth.


Data released by ThredUp, a prominent online consignment and thrift platform, indicates a significant expansion of the global secondhand market, nearly doubling in size by 2027, reaching a valuation of 350 billion dollars. The U.S. secondhand market alone is projected to reach a value of 70 billion dollars.


Specifically within the realm of footwear, Cowen & Co. offers insights estimating the global sneaker resale market's worth at 6 billion dollars in 2019, with forecasts predicting a substantial growth trajectory. By 2030, the sneaker resale market is anticipated to reach 30 billion dollars, as reported by Footwear News. This trend reflects a shifting consumer preference toward more sustainable fashion choices, as they seek to reduce the environmental impact of their footwear selections.


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Nordstrom appoints new chief human resources officer

Nordstrom storefront. Credits: Nordstrom Inc.



American department store chain Nordstrom has announced its new chief human resources officer to be Lisa Price, who will step into the role from November 6.


She joins the company from Domino’s Pizza, where she had served in the same position, as well as executive vice president from August 2019.


She had further spent 20 years at Starbucks, where she had been credited with supporting the company’s growth and global expansion through various human resources roles.


Price had previously been a member of Nordstrom’s human resources team in the past, with a tenure spanning 2015 to 2019, during which time she was most recently senior vice president of human resources.


In her returning role at the group, Price has been tasked with supporting all aspects of the division, including recruitment, retention, diversity, inclusion and total rewards.


In a release, Erik Nordstrom, CEO of the firm, said: "With nearly three decades of experience driving and creating culture for large global organisations and previous experience working at Nordstrom, Lisa understands that the success of our business starts with our people.


"Great customer service begins with a great employee experience, and I'm confident that Lisa's expertise will be an asset to our team. We look forward to welcoming her back to Nordstrom."


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Chloé names Chemena Kamali creative director

Chloé's new creative director Chemena Kamali. Credits: Chloé.



Luxury fashion house Chloé has announced the successor to Gabriela Hearst, revealing that German-born designer Chemena Kamali is to now take on the creative director role.


The Central Saint Martins graduate began her career working at the brand alongside Phoebe Philo, who had previously led Chloé in the helm position, and later rejoined the company as design director for Clare Waight Keller in 2013.


From 2016, Kamali had also most recently served as women’s ready to wear design director for Saint Laurent, alongside Anthony Vaccarello.


In a release, the president and CEO of Chloé, Riccardo Bellini, welcomed Kamali to the house, adding: “Her extraordinary creative talent, extensive experience and unique connection with the brand’s legacy and values make her a natural choice for the Maison.


“Chemena’s vision, inspired by her love for the brand, will truly celebrate Chloé’s unique DNA. Chemena is both the creative director of Chloé and the embodiment of the Chloé spirit. I am excited to see her vision come to life.”


First pre-collection due January 2024




Kamali is set to present her first pre-collection for Chloé in Paris in January 2024, which will be followed by an autumn/winter 2024 collection as part of Paris Fashion Week in February 2024.


The designer further expressed her excitement to return to the brand, stating: “My heart has always been Chloé’s. It has been since I stepped through its doors more than 20 years ago. Returning feels natural and very personal.


“I am extremely honoured to be taking on this role and to be building on the vision that Gaby Aghion and Karl Lagerfeld defined early in the Maison’s history.


“I hope to capture the emotional connection and spirit of Chloé for today. I am very grateful to Riccardo Bellini, Philippe Fortunato and Johann Rupert for this opportunity and their trust.”


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Adidas veteran Andrew Rudolph joins Puma as SVP of North America wholesale

Puma Credits: Image: Robert Ascroft / Puma



Puma has announced the appointment of Andrew Rudolph (Rudi) as senior vice president, wholesale of North American sales. He will begin his journey at Puma on October 10, 2023.


Rudolph, the company said, brings 30 years of experience leading sales strategies and managing distribution decisions for some of the biggest sports accounts in the footwear and apparel industry, including more than 20 years at Adidas.


“Rudi’s proven track record of managing teams and delivering outstanding commercial results, coupled with his deep understanding of the footwear and apparel market and our key customers, will be instrumental as we support our region's continued expansion strategies,” said Bob Philion, president of Puma North America.
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The company added that Rudolph will report to Philion and serve on Puma North America’s executive leadership team, representing the sales function for the U.S. and Canada.


In his previous roles, he spent more than 20 years at Adidas, working his way up to vice president of sales for the U.S. Rudolph also served as the director for the mall channel of distribution, including Foot Locker, Champs, JD/Finish Line, Journey’s, and Dick’s Sporting Goods, among many others.
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In his most recent role as senior vice president of wholesale at Cole Haan, Rudolph achieved more than 70 percent revenue growth in three years and reached the highest revenue number in company history.


‌“I have closely followed the brand’s rapid growth over the past few years and I believe there are still many more opportunities for Puma to elevate within the North American marketplace,” said Rudolph.


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Ex-SoftBank executive Marcelo Claure named Shein's group vice chairman

Shein Marseille pop-up. Credits: Image: Shein



Online fashion marketplace Shein has appointed Marcelo Claure, a current investor in the company, as group vice chairman.


In this new role, the company said in a release, Claure will help accelerate strategic growth initiatives across all global markets where Shein has customers.


Commenting on the new appointment, Donald Tang, executive chairman of Shein said: "Marcelo's leadership and relationships have been instrumental in strengthening Shein's business development and strategy in key markets. We are fortunate to have Marcelo's unparalleled expertise at scaling global companies as we further expand Shein's marketplace model, localization strategy and other key initiatives to further meet the needs of our customers in over 150 markets."


Marcelo Claure is Shein's new group vice chairman
Claure, who until recently served as CEO of SoftBank Group International, joined Shein in January 2023 as chairman of Latin America. Since that time, he has overseen the launch of the company’s marketplace in Brazil and the commitment of 150 million dollars to localise Shein’s manufacturing operations in the country, creating an estimated 100,000 jobs over the next three years.


The company added that he will continue serving in his capacity as chairman of Shein Latin America in addition to his new role as group vice chairman, working closely with the company’s founder and CEO, Sky Xu; executive chairman, Donald Tang and the company’s executive team around the world.


"What attracted me to Shein, as both an investor and operator, is its unique business model and the way that it empowers designers and local suppliers in communities around the world. I look forward to working with the talented Shein team as the company delivers on its mission to make the beauty of fashion accessible to all," said Claure.


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Ari Mervis to replace Joanne Stephenson as new Myer chairman

Credits: Image: Myer, Facebook



After seven years on the board of Myer Holdings Limited, Joanne Stephenson has decided to retire as chairman and as a director of at the upcoming 2023 annual general meeting (AGM).


The company’s board has unanimously appointed current Myer non-executive director, Ari Mervis as the new chairman, with effect from the conclusion of the AGM.


Commenting on his retirement and new chairman appointment, Stephenson said: “After seven years on the board, I believe now is the right time for transition to an outstanding new chairman – Ari Mervis, who, with the unanimous support of the board, is the right person to oversee the next stage of Myer’s growth journey.”


Mervis, the company said in a statement, will stand for re-election as a director at the AGM.


“Joanne has led the board with resolute professionalism and has worked closely with John King and the executive team in navigating the business through the Covid 19 pandemic, delivering a stronger Myer and reinstating dividends for our shareholders,” said Myer chairman-designate, Ari Mervis.


The board has also nominated Olivia Wirth and Gary Weiss AM for election as independent non-executive directors at the upcoming AGM. Both nominees have the support of Myer’s largest shareholder.


Commenting on the development, Myer chairman, Joanne Stephenson, said: “It has always been a focus to have the right skills, experience, independence and diversity on the Myer board and I am pleased that two such outstanding candidates are standing for election as directors at this year’s AGM.”


“Weiss brings a wealth of commercial experience across a broad range of industries, including retail and property, whilst Wirth brings significant expertise in a range of areas aligned to key elements of Myer’s customer first plan, including loyalty and customer experience,” Stephenson added.


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IM Milan designer of the year: Retbierieka Kong’s winning collection

In Pictures


Retbierieka Kong, CLASS23 Credits: Courtesy of Istituto Marangoni Milan via press agency Ploom PR.



During Istituto Marangoni Milan’s fashion show that featured its best designers of the past academic year in September, graduating student Retbierieka Kong was named IM Milan’s best designer of the year.


Kong competed against nine fellow emerging designers studying at the Italian institution. Each has their own background, unique vision and inspirations.


The ten designers presented their individual looks in a collective fashion show entitled Estrangement during Milan Fashion Week, which evoked themes of isolation and individuals trying to navigate a society that becomes more (dis)connected every day.


In this article, FashionUnited highlights the collection of IM Milan’s top designer of the academic year 2022/2023, Retbierieka Kong.


The young creative created a collection entitled ‘La Satrey’, which translates into English (from Khmer) to The Women. It focuses on the role of women as artists and designers and draws inspiration from the work of these female artists, particularly when it comes to materials and the principles of contemporary minimalism, highlighting the significance of vintage items and recyclability.


View her full collection below


Retbierieka Kong, CLASS23. Credits: Courtesy of Istituto Marangoni Milan via press agency Ploom PR.



Retbierieka Kong, CLASS23. Credits: Courtesy of Istituto Marangoni Milan via press agency Ploom PR.



Retbierieka Kong, CLASS23. Credits: Courtesy of Istituto Marangoni Milan via press agency Ploom PR.



Retbierieka Kong, CLASS23. Credits: Courtesy of Istituto Marangoni Milan via press agency Ploom PR.



Retbierieka Kong, CLASS23. Credits: Courtesy of Istituto Marangoni Milan via press agency Ploom PR.

ALSO READDiscover the looks created by all of IM Milan's top designers below: Istituto Marangoni Milan presents top fashion students, names designer of the year


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Tesco ups FY profit outlook, but Home and Clothing sales fall in H1

Tesco sign Credits: Tesco, Facebook



British supermarket giant Tesco has upped its full-year profit guidance after reporting a robust first half of the year, despite sales at its Home and Clothing division declining.


The retailer reported a 8.9 percent increase in group revenue in the six months to August 26, reaching 30.7 billion pounds.


That came as its profit surged to 929 million pounds from 252 million pounds.


In its home UK market, like-for-like sales rose by 8.7 percent in the first half, which was driven by a “strong performance across all formats and channels”.


However, things were looking less bright at its Home and Clothing department - which comprises around 7 percent of UK sales - where sales declined 4.8 percent.


It said that drop was primarily linked to the impact of strategic ranging decisions, including exiting and reducing low returning categories such as large electricals and adult footwear.


Excluding those factors, sales were broadly flat, the retailer said.


“We outperformed the rest of the market in Clothing across the half and further improved our value perception against our key competitors,” it added.


Based on its first-half results, Tesco has raised its full-year adjusted operating profit to between 2.6 billion pounds and 2.7 billion pounds.


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Uniform Standard to launch pop-up sneaker showroom

Uniform Standard sneakers Credits: Uniform Standard



Uniform Standard, the East London-based minimalist premium leather sneaker brand, is opening its first pop-up showroom, where customers can discover the brand and meet the co-founders.


The phygital pop-up sneaker showroom will be located at No.2 Marshall Street, Soho in London, and will be open for eight weeks from October 23 as the brand looks to appeal to a wider audience.


It will showcase Uniform Standard’s entire Sneaker Series, allowing customers to try on their perfect size. They will also be able to purchase sneakers, which will be delivered directly to their home or workplace.


The pop-up will also present its full collection of men’s and women’s apparel and accessories and a limited-edition collection of sneaker colours exclusive to Marshall Street.


The design of the showroom will reflect the brand’s pared-back aesthetic with custom-made modular furniture fabricated from recyclable materials that are designed to be reused and repurposed.


Launched in 2018, Uniform Standard is known for its minimalist sneakers, made in limited numbers, which are designed in London and handcrafted in Portugal using premium full-grain Italian leathers certified by the Leather Working Group.


Uniform Standard sneakers Credits: Uniform Standard


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Superdry to accelerate growth in India with Reliance Brands

Superdry showroom in Berlin Credits: Superdry



British retailer Superdry has signed an IP joint venture agreement with India’s Reliance Brands Holding UK (RBUK) for the sale of its South Asia intellectual property assets, including the Superdry brand and related trademarks in India, Sri Lanka, and Bangladesh.


In a statement, struggling Superdry said that RBUK, which is held by Reliance Retail Ventures Limited (RRVL) through its subsidiary Reliance Brands Limited (RBL), has been its exclusive franchise partner in India since 2012.


The new joint venture will be 76 percent owned by RBUK and 24 percent by Superdry.


Superdry to boost India business




The sale of the South Asian IP will raise 40 million pounds, which is estimated to result in Superdry receiving gross cash proceeds of 30.4 million pounds.


RBL is the premium retail arm of RRVL and operates more than 18,000 stores across India from over 50 different luxury fashion brands. It has a presence in 7,000 towns and a total shopping area of more than 65 million square feet.


Following the completion of the transaction, Reliance Retail will continue to oversee brand operations in India, Sri Lanka, and Bangladesh, added Superdry.


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Naked demos and plucked goats: A fashion month of protests, a rundown of all the outcry

Extinction Rebellion protesters outside NYFW SS24 event. Credits: Extinction Rebellion.



Fashion and clothing has always been a medium of protest. For decades, both designers and consumers have used their dress sense to determine what message they want to portray to the outside world. This has also rang true on the runway, where brands have leveraged the global platform to make political or societal statements on a current issue in the hope of both spreading their message and appealing to consumers that share such a value.


Now, however, it appears that criticism is beginning to fall inwards, as fashion month increasingly becomes a stage for organisations that actively disapprove of the industry’s current operations. From New York to Paris, some of the most acclaimed runways of the SS24 season were the unsuspecting hosts of protesters looking to spotlight their own campaigns.


Stage intruders and unplanned demonstrations are nothing new. For SS20, Gucci was subject to a subtle protest from model Ayesha Tan Jones, who held up the palms of her hands on which the words “mental health is not fashion” were scrawled – a critique on the outfit she sported that resembled a straitjacket. Earlier, during the SS14 season, two topless women from the Ukrainian feminist group ‘Femen’ stormed the stage at Nina Ricci with “models don’t go to brothels” painted across their bodies.


While many of these previous protests have revolved around societal issues, this season, and a number of seasons prior, more attention has been put on the climate crisis, which has become a focal point for fashion critics as the industry’s turbulent relationship with the environment plunges deeper into the limelight. In fact, those that were centred around society – such as Tommy Cash’s appearance at Diesel’s SS24 Milan Fashion Week show as a “homeless” person, which he claimed was a critique of the “widespread cynicism surrounding trends like poverty chic” – have often fallen flat, or even become the centre of judgement themselves due to their sometimes tone deaf approach. It was instead the environmentalists that had reverted to the shock factor to get their point across, garnering the attention they much needed.


An opportunity for fashion weeks to differentiate themselves




Gumtree protesting outside of LFW SS24. Credits: Gumtree.



British advertisement agency Gumtree, for example, staged a naked protest ahead of London Fashion Week SS24, with protesters donning placards denouncing the overconsumption of clothes – one stating: “I’d rather be naked than buy new”. In a release, the company’s CEO, Hugh Hurley, said: “We’re calling on Britain’s top fashion houses to recognise their impact and influence on our consumption habits. The UK fashion industry has the power to change our toxic relationship with textile waste – and now is the time to act.”


Nudity seemed to be a running theme, too. Unclothed individuals also caused a stir at The Blonds’ New York Fashion Week show, on this occasion representing the infamous environmentalist group Extinction Rebellion, who have already been known for making raucous fashion week statements in the past. While their previous protest at London Fashion Week involved pouring fake oil on the streets outside The Strand in a call for the event to cut ties with “top plastic polluter” Coca Cola, the latest theatrics targeted fashion as a whole, aligning with one of the group’s motos ‘No Fashion on a Dead Planet’.


Protesters were draped in banners reading “tell the naked truth about the climate crisis”, in what was an attempt to “highlight human vulnerability in the face of climate collapse”, further demanding an end to the use of fossil fuels. In the eyes of those linked to the movement, such protests actually provide a potential opportunity for the fashion week. In a statement, activist Laura Cole said: “NYFW has long grappled with matching the prominence of its European counterparts, falling short each year. Why not pivot to spotlighting the intersection of climate and fashion? By doing so, it could rise as the most forward-thinking event globally. It’s high time designers and executives reflect deeply on their roles within the environmental and human supply chain, striving to minimise harm.”


Extinction Rebellion protesters outside NYFW SS24 event. Credits: Extinction Rebellion.



The sense of civil disobedience didn’t stop here, however. As always, PETA – or the People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals – made itself known, persisting in its notoriously disruptive status at every major fashion city this season, and reiterating its mission of convincing designers to cut animal products from their supply chains. Protesters descended onto the runways of Michael Kors, Coach, Burberry, Hermès and even Sabato De Sarno’s Gucci debut, among others, proving that not even the most prestigious of brands can bypass such public disparagement. The animal rights organisation’s typically shocking, yet distinctive approach could also be seen outside of the British Fashion Council’s NewGen Show Space, where supporters reenacted the alleged torture of goats used for cashmere production.


Labour and animal rights are trending topics




When asked by FashionUnited why fashion weeks were increasingly becoming a platform to stage such outrage, vice president of corporate projects, Yvonne Taylor, said: “PETA’s campaigns challenge people to question the acceptability of using any living, feeling being’s skin or hair for fashion. Fashion shows are where designers and other influential people from the industry gather, so they’re the perfect place to stage eye-catching actions which inform people of the cruelty inherent in the production of animal-derived fabrics. We stage our actions with the aim of educating designers and consumers, and empowering them to make kinder, more informed decisions.”


While PETA’s past statements have often been met with success, seeing a slew of notable brands and fashion houses turn away from animal-based materials towards alternatives, it is yet to be seen if their most recent acts will convince those targeted to do the same. Taylor, who noted that events were selected based on the quantity of eyes that could potentially view the action, was optimistic about this season’s efforts, adding: “Awareness sparks dialogue, which in turn is the catalyst for change. Designers are taking note, as many more are working with vegan materials than ever before, and we predict further progress will take place over upcoming seasons.”


Model Alliance protest at NYFW SS24. Credits: Model Alliance.



Despite being less common for SS24, the industry was also facing criticism from its own kind too, aligning with ongoing global conversations surrounding workers rights. In New York, the Model Alliance used the city’s fashion week as an opportunity to speak on the lack of labour protections within the modelling industry, relating to the recently concluded SAG-AFTRA strike. The organisation noted that, akin to actors and Hollywood writers, models were struggling to secure workplace protection, with participants of a press conference calling on the state’s lawmakers to enact the Fashion Workers Act in order to regulate “predatory management companies” in this field.


Speaking on the demands and highlighting the need for the bill to be put into place, New York senator Brad Hoylman-Sigal said in a statement: “This fashion week, labour rights are trending. Actors and models share the unfortunate experience of exploitation by big production studios and model management companies. But loopholes in our state law leave models vulnerable to exploitation and abuse while agencies profit off their image. Fashion workers deserve the same protections as anyone else, especially in an industry worth 2.5 trillion dollars globally.”


The impact of such movements during the very public fashion weeks is typically never immediately known, as are the responses from designers or related organisations. For each of those carrying out the statements, work will be ongoing until demands are met. PETA, for example, often takes matters into the boardrooms of targeted brands, while Extinction Rebellion’s reputation for over-the-top demonstrations ensures that its policies remain front of mind for those they come into contact with. Either way, it is clear that climate-centric organisations have no intention of backing down from their mission, especially when fashion is demanding for such judgement.

Read more:



* PETA Interview: ‘Cruelty is something that is built in’






* Extinction Rebellion calls for cancelling London Fashion Week






* Why protesting at a Louis Vuitton show does nothing to focus our sustainability goals


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Phoebe Philo's first collection to drop October 30

Phoebe Philo Credits: Archive photo



British designer Phoebe Philo is set to launch her highly anticipated signature collection on October 30, marking the opening of her official website for business.


The announcement was made via an email to subscribers and press, which included only the release date and a series of rapid imagery flashes featuring faces, plants, fingers, and what appears to be headlights, reported WWD.


Details about the collection and its offerings remain undisclosed, building anticipation among Philo's dedicated followers. A holding page on the brand's website launched in July, allowing users to sign up for updates and news, hinting at the imminent launch of Ms Philo's first collection under her own name.


Despite a blank Instagram account with no posts, it has already amassed a following of 266,000, a testament to the enduring enthusiasm and interest in her work within the fashion industry.


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