British trans modelling pioneer April Ashley died at age 86

April Ashley, a British model and actress who was a pioneering figure in the fight for trans rights, has died at 86, local media reported Wednesday. Ashley was one of the first British people known to have undergone gender reassignment surgery, although she only gained full legal recognition as a woman in the UK in 2005. She was honoured by Queen Elizabeth II who awarded her an MBE (Member of the British Empire) in 2012 for services to the transgender community and activist Peter Tatchell wrote that she was "the great trans trailblazer for decades". Ashley was born George Jamieson in 1935 in the port city of Liverpool in northwestern England. From an early age, she felt that her birth gender of male was wrong and she was severely bullied and beaten by her mother. She briefly served in the Merchant Navy and had treatment at a psychiatric hospital. She found greater acceptance when she moved to London and then Paris, where she began performing at the Caroussel de Paris, the city's first transgender revue. She underwent sex-change surgery in Morocco in 1960 aged 25, taking the name April Ashley, reflecting the month of her birth. The UK accepted her new identity and gave her papers allowing her to gain a passport and driving licence. She became a successful model, photographed for Vogue and appeared in a film with US star Bob Hope called "Road to Hong Kong". But her sex change later caused a public scandal after it was revealed in a tabloid. She wed a British aristocrat, Arthur Corbett, in 1963 in Gibraltar, but their marriage swiftly broke up. To avoid paying maintenance payments, Corbett applied to annul their marriage. A court in 1970 famously ruled that the marriage was void because Ashley was male, even though Corbett knew her history. This led to Ashley facing public attacks. She spent a period running a London restaurant and moved to the US. She returned to the UK in 2005, after the passing of the Gender Recognition Act that allowed her to be fully recognised as a woman. Her life was celebrated with a 2013 exhibition in her home city of Liverpool titled "April Ashley: Portrait of a Lady". Her friends included the former Labour Party deputy leader John Prescott. Tributes came from friends including French transgender performer Marie-Pierre Pruvot, who wrote on Facebook of her death on Monday: "A little bit of me is going away." "She had airs of a Queen and crazy humour, tremendous liveliness", Pruvot added. British pop star Boy George posted on Twitter a photograph he had taken of Ashley, calling her "such an inspiration to my generation and beyond!"(AFP)
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Barbour remains profitable despite drop in full-year sales

Image: Barbour Barbour has reported strong profit in the year to April 30 despite a 10.2 percent drop in sales. The British brand’s turnover decreased to 218 million pounds from 242.8 million pounds a year earlier as the pandemic took its toll on the business. “The impact of the Covid-19 pandemic was felt significantly throughout the year, with revenues and absolute margins down compared to the prior year,” the company said. It continued: “With uncertainty across global markets very high and competition for dwindling demand intense, the marketplace was very difficult to navigate profitably without significant focus on appropriate cost reduction and investment in strong relationships across the end to end product life cycle.” Barbour remains profitable But the brand managed to increase its pre-tax profit to 36.3 million pounds from 35.8 million pounds a year earlier. Its net profit dropped slightly to 27.9 million pounds from 28.9 million pounds. The company said its profitability “represents a steady performance”. It added that, “despite the challenges of the pandemic”, its balance sheet remains “relatively strong”, with cash held in the business reducing to 95.4 million pounds from 97.4 million pounds a year earlier. It said the cash would allow it to “focus on protecting customer service, our long-term objectives and partnerships, investing for the future sustainability of our brands and the trust in our business ethos.”
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CEO and founder of Perfect Corp Alice Chang recognised by Tech Trailblazers Awards

Image: Tech Trailblazers Awards Alice Chang, the CEO and Founder of Perfect Corp., an artificial intelligence and augmented reality beauty and fashion tech solutions provider, has been recognised as a top female leader in tech at the Tech Trailblazers Awards. The Tech Trailblazers Awards are aimed at small businesses that are under seven years old, and at C-series funding or below. During this year’s Tech Trailblazers Awards, Chang was recognised in the Female CxO Trailblazers classification. The award goes to those who demonstrate key leadership qualities such as driving innovation, promoting diversity and encouraging agile practices. “It is an honour to be recognised by Tech Trailblazers in the Female CxO Category,” said Chang. “At Perfect Corp., our goal is to solve consumer pain problems through AI and AR digital tech innovations, and we look forward to driving further advancement in beauty and fashion tech, and help brands leverage the opportunities created by the metaverse.” Perfect Corp. has helped brands to establish an omnichannel presence, and focuses on using AI and AR powered solutions to transform retail experiences. This includes virtual try on for beauty and fashion products and skin diagnostics powered by AIs.
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Top Ten Male Runway Models 2021: In Pictures

Dior Homme FW22/Catwalk Pictures The F/W 22 Menswear Collections start next month. These are the top 10 models we hope to see walking the runways. Babacar N'doye Givenchy SS22/Catwalk Pictures Nationality: British Agency: Elite World Instagram @thankyoubabacar: Followers: 3K Recent Campaigns and Editorial: Boss F/W 21; Cos S/S 21; Dior S/S 21; Shows Walked in 2021 included: Dior Men's Pre-Fall 22; Givenchy S/S 22; Hermès S/S 22 Men's; Zadig & Voltaire S/S 22; AMI Paris S/S 22; Valentino Haute Couture F/W 21. Braien Vaiksaar Givenchy FW21/Catwalk Pictures Nationality: Estonian Agency: Success Models Instagram: @braien.vaiksaar: Followers: 7K Recent Campaigns and Editorial: Balmain S/S 2021 Campaign; H Magazine 'Don’t Forget About Me' Shows Walked in 2021 included: Givenchy S/S 22; Balmain S/S 22; Hermès F/W 21 Men's Malick Bodian Lanvin SS22/Catwalk Pictures Nationality: Senegalese/Italian Agency: The Claw Instagram: @Malickbodi: Followers: 27K Recent Campaigns and Editorial: GQ Style Germany Fall 21 Cover; Swarovski Collection 2 Fall 2021 Campaign; American Vogue editorial 'Give Me The Night;' Shows Walked in 2021 included: Dior Men Pre-Fall 22; Louis Vuitton 'Virgil Was Here' S/S 22; Lanvin S/S; Dries Van Noten S/S 22 Digital Show Alpha Dia Dries Van Noten FW21/Catwalk Pictures Nationality: Senegalese Agency: Modelwerk Instagram: @alpha_dia_ :Followers: 38K Recent Campaigns and Editorial: Polo Ralph Lauren for Zalando campaign: 'Weekend reload;' Arket V Man 'Time of Your Life' Shows Walked in 2021 included: Isabel Marant S/S 22; Boss; S/S Dries Van Noten F/W 21 Men's Taemin Park Haider Ackermann FW20/Catwalk Pictures Nationality: South Korean Agency: Gost Instagram @txxmini : Followers: 113K Recent Campaigns and Editorial: M Le magazine du Monde editorial; GQ Korea 'Color Madness;' W Korea 'The Control' Shows Walked in 2021 included: Ann Demeulemeester S/S 22; Salvatore Ferragamo S/S 22; Hermès S/S 22 Men's; Louis Vuitton S/S 22 Men's; Leon Dame Givenchy SS22/Catwalk Pictures Nationality: German Agency: London/Viva London Instagram @leondame Followers: 11.7K Recent Campaigns and Editorial: L'Uomo Vogue 'Leading Lady;' L'Uomo Vogue December 2021 Covers Shows Walked in 2021 included: Louis Vuitton 'Virgil Was Here' S/S 22; Lanvin S/S 22 Show; Givenchy S/S 22 Yura Nakano Dior Homme FW22/Catwalk Pictures Nationality: Japanese/Taiwanese Agency: Paris/Banana Models; London/Milk Management; Milan CREW Model Management Instagram: @ yrnkn__ :Followers: 7K Recent Campaigns and Editorial: Ermenegildo Zegna’s F/W21 campaign Shows Walked in 2021 included: Dior Men's Pre-Fall 22; Balmain S/S 22 Show; Hermès S/S 22 Men's Jeremiah Berko Fourdjour Valentino FW20/Catwalk Pictures Nationality: Italian/ Ghanaian Agency: Supa Model Management Instagram: @JeremiahBerko :Followers 5,631 Recent Campaigns and Editorial: L'Officiel Italia: Erin x Amanda Harlech Shows Walked in 2021 included: Dior Men's Pre-Fall 22; Louis Vuitton 'Virgil Was Here' S/S 22; Roberto Cavalli S/S 22 Show; Jonas Glöer Hermes FW2021/Catwalk Pictures Nationality: German Agency: Viva London Instagram: @ jonasgloeer :Followers 21K Recent Campaigns and Editorial: Holiday Magazine 'Meet Me In Prenzlauer Berg;' V Man 'Midwinter Fantasy' Shows Walked in 2021 included: Louis Vuitton 'Virgil Was Here' S/S 22; Lanvin S/S 22; Isabel Marant S/S 22; Xu Meen Balmain SS22/Catwalk Pictures Nationality: South Korean Agency: IMG Models Worldwide Instagram: @xumeen :Followers 27K Recent Campaigns and Editorial: COS x Mok Jungwook Campaign 2021; GQ Korea Editorial Shows Walked in 2021 included: Isabel Marant S/S 22; Balmain S/S 22; Salvatore Ferragamo S/S 22;
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Kid's subscription service Kidpik reports increase in Q3 revenue

Image: Kidpik, Facebook Kidpik, an online clothing subscription service for children, has reported a 20.3 percent increase in revenue in the third quarter of the year. In the three months to October 2, revenue increased to 5.57 million dollars compared to 4.63 million dollars a year earlier. CEO Ezra Dabah said the increase in revenue was driven “mainly by the introduction of boys’ subscription boxes, the continued growth of our girls’ subscriptions and the newly introduced toddler box collection”. Meanwhile, Kidpik’s Gross Margin was 58.2 percent compared to 59.3 percent in the third quarter of 2020. The company reported a net loss of 1.19 million dollars compared to a loss of 0.98 million dollars a year earlier. The trading update comes after Kidpik launched an 18 million dollar IPO in November. Dabah continued: “Strengthening our balance sheet gives us the ability to make further investments in building our brand, growing our revenue, and driving shareholder value. “We look forward to achieving our growth objectives by leveraging our merchandising expertise, the technology we have built, and the knowledge our team has gained over the last five years in the rapidly growing subscription industry.”
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Gucci and The North Face plan pop-up shops

Image: Gucci Gucci is continuing its second round of collaboration with The North Face and this time the brands are planning more pop-up shops together. The new campaign for the second installment of their collaboration has debuted today, and was photographed and directed by the Durimel twins, Jalan and Jibril. Christopher Simmons art directed the campaign, Thomes De Kluyver was the makeup artist, and Andrea Martinelli was the hairstylist. The campaign was shot in Iceland. Beginning next month, Gucci and the North Face will be opening pop-up shops from January 11 to January. Current announced locations include Aspen, Chicago, and Toronto. This new collaboration uses Econyl, a nylon fiber made from regenerated materials, as part of Gucci’s commitment to becoming more sustainable. The down insulation for coats meets the standards for the Responsible Down Standard by Control Union. The paper and cardboard used for packaging comes from sustained managed forest sources.
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Stella McCartney reports drop in 2020 sales, but sees signs of recovery

Image: Stella McCartney British luxury label Stella McCartney had a tough time in 2020 due to the pandemic, but has since seen signs of recovery, according to its most recent filings at Companies House. The brand reported sales of 28.4 million pounds in the 12 months to December 2020, a 26 percent drop compared to a year earlier, as lockdowns and store closures impacted the business. The company made a loss after tax of 30.4 million pounds, a slight improvement on the loss of 33.5 million pounds it made a year earlier. The brand said it continued to be impacted by the pandemic at the beginning of 2021, during the national lockdown. Signs of recovery The company said its sales recovery since the beginning of the year has been broadly in line with expectations. Looking ahead, it aims to increase its 2021 sales by 4 percent year-on-year and to “significantly” reduce its operating loss. Despite that, the company said the outlook for 2021 “remains uncertain” and is “very much dependent on the global health and economic context”. The brand said it does not believe Brexit will have a “significant” impact on the business. Currently, less than 5 percent of global revenue comes through the company’s UK brick and mortar stores dependant on cross border movement of goods to the UK.
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Shoppers shun London on Boxing Day as footfall plummets 67 percent

Image: Selfridges As a queues of shoppers snaked around Selfridges on Oxford Street, eagerly hoping to score a Boxing Day bargain, the rest of central London was eerily quiet, with footfall down 67.3 percent in comparison to 2019, before the pandemic. Figures from Springboard show a similar fate across all UK retail destinations, with footfall down an average of -45.2 percent below the 2019 level. Despite the cold weather, high streets faired better than shopping centres, with -35.6 percent compared to -59.8 percent. The trend amongst shoppers for staying local has been a key characteristic all the way through the pandemic which has heightened once again in the past few weeks with the surge of the omicron variant which threatened so many Christmases across the UK, remains prevalent. Footfall in market towns up to 12pm on Boxing Day was just -12.6 percent below the 2019 level and -7.4 percent below 2019 in Outer London. Covid restrictions impact shoppers New Covid restrictions came into force in Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland on Boxing Day as the nations try to halt the surge in infections. This would have an impact on the number of shoppers hitting the sales. Northern Ireland footfall plummeted 73 percent, with Wales seeing a 63 percent decline and almost 50 percent lower in Scotland compared to 2019. Despite the drop, large queues formed outside the Trafford Centre in Manchester with shoppers waiting since 8am, reported the Evening Stands, while bargain hunters also lined up outside Primark in Birmingham and Zara in Bristol. Diane Wehrle, Insights Director at Springboard commented: “A major reason for the significantly lower footfall compared with 2019 will be due to consumers and ongoing nervousness about the Covid infection rate. This will have been compounded by the fact that a few multiple retailers opted not to open today, which will have deterred some shoppers. In addition, Sunday generally has the lowest footfall on any day in the week, so a comparison with 2019 when Boxing Day fell on a Thursday will always have meant that footfall would be lower than two years ago. Despite this, the fact that most multiple retailers still opened their doors to shoppers, and the mild weather should have meant that it was easy for shoppers to visit stores and destinations still did not encourage shoppers out to shop.”
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Zara invests in 238 million euro headquarters

Image: Zara Zara has invested 238 million euros into a new headquarters that will house the Zara sales and design teams within Inditex’s complex in Arteixo. Construction on the new headquarters will begin in January, subject to the necessary permissions, and are expected to last around two years. The new facilities, which are being designed with a focus on their lines, broad open spaces, energy efficiency, and sustainability credentials, are meant to reinforce the horizontal work dynamics between designers, patternmakers, and sales professionals, underpinned by creativity and articulated around open collaboration and communication. The new five-story building (with another two underground floors for parking) will complement the visual identity of the adjacent offices, which accommodate the zara.com operations. Zara to get multi-million euro headquarters in Artexio The building will be predominantly white and feature large horizontal windows with protruding eaves to provide protection from the sun while flooding the interiors with natural light. A structural trellis will introduce pillars generating huge open spaces that will further facilitate the dynamic workflows between the various departments. The plans, designed by Batlleiroig, the architecture firm which was responsible for the recent expansion of Zara’s facilities in Arteixo and several of the brands’ head offices, is based on an orderly and structured design of flexible workspaces that lend themselves to easy and multiple reconfigurations. The proportions and dimensions of this huge building give it a ‘shape coefficient’ which, together with its highly insulated façades and roofing, reduce its energy consumption and facilitate energy self-sufficiency, thanks to energy just taken from three new wind turbines located in Coruña’s Outer Port. The new building will be fitted with a next-generation facility management system to ensure that its various elements always operate in efficient harmony, adapting them continuously in response to indoor and outdoor temperatures and air quality. By using technology in the design phase, the impact of the construction process will be minimized in the interest of sustainability. That industrialization, coupled with intensive use of recycled materials, will reduce the works’ carbon footprint and waste generation. It will comply with the stringent requirements of the sustainable building benchmark US Green Building Council (USGBC) –and Zara hopes to achieve its highest certification, LEED Platinum. Each of the sales teams’ floors will have two large, connected work areas. Two big longitudinal outdoor areas adjacent to the east and north façades will add to the existing square outside the dotcom building, promoting users’ health and wellbeing, in keeping with the strategy embarked on at Inditex’s headquarters in 2018 of upgrading and integrating the complex’s outdoor spaces. A grid of walkways will connect various parts of the new building with the adjacent buildings to ensure internal connectivity at the complex and optimal interaction between the various departments.
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Iconic retailer Selfridges sold to Thai and Austrian joint venture

Image: Selfridges via Pexels The Canadian billionaire family behind the revamp of Selfridges have sold the iconic department store to a Thai and Austrian joint venture. The Weston family sold the British store chain to Thai conglomerate Central Group and Austrian Signa Holding, who each own 50 percent. The group’s other retail division, which includes Arnotts and Brown Thomas in Ireland and de Bijenkorf in the Netherlands were included in the deal. Holt Refrew, the high-end Canadian department store chain, will remain under Weston ownership. Value of the sale not disclosed The sale, confirmed by Bloomberg early on Friday, is thought to be valued at 4 billion pounds, although terms of the sale were not disclosed. Galen Weston bought the Oxford street flagship in 2003 for 600 million pounds. The Central Group is Thailand’s largest retail operator, owned by the wealthy Chirathivat family. The Group’s international portfolio includes Italy’s Rinascente, Denmark’s Illum, Germany’s KaDeWe and Globus in Switzerland. The latter two are owned in partnership with Signa. Signa, a retail, real estate and media group, has assets in New York’s Art Deco Chrysler Building and Hotel Bauer in Venice. The company’s global real estate assets are valued at over 24 billion euros said the Financial Times. Selfridges, which outright owns the properties of its UK stores, remains one of London’s most sought after fashion destinations, a temple of experiential retailing that many have tried, and failed, to copy. “As family businesses, Central and Signa will focus on delivering exceptional and inclusive store and digital experiences for both local residents and overseas visitors alike, as we seek to create a world-leading luxury, retail company,” said Tos Chirathivat, executive chair and chief executive of Central Group in a statement. Selfridges was founded in 1908 by American businessman Harry Gordon Selfridge. His story was filmed for a television miniseries in 2016 called Mr Selfridge. The Selfridge Group currently operates 28 stores worldwide. Changes in management have not been announced.
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Adore Me launches technology brand for operating platform

Image: Adore Me Lingerie label Adore Me has introduced a new technology group, Adore Me Tech, developed to build upon the Adore Me Operating Platform. Considering themselves both a data-driven technology brand and a lingerie brand, Adore Me stated that it follows a belief that “technology must be embedded into any and every business function”. The Adore Me Tech launch involves the use of proprietary software and technology that can be used in the expansion into new markets, products and business models. The brand’s current operating platform utilises 15 internal tools, developed to support solutions for current and short-term business challenges. Examples of the tools include a scale-up procurement inventory management system, a product order tool, subscription box method and a product creation tool. “We hypothesise that as the world around us continues to change, we’ll need to change the way we approach our planning, automation and policies,” said Romain Liot, co-founder and chief operating officer, in a release. “The right framework will be our catalyst in business growth, and the Adore Me Operating Platform is a huge step in the right direction.”
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Selfridges could close four billion pound deal with Thailand Central Group

Image: Selfridges Luxury department store Selfridges is reportedly close to closing a four billion pound deal with Thailand’s Central Group, with an official announcement supposedly to come in a matter of days. Word on the acquisition has been floating around since the start of December, following a report by The Times that stated the current owners of the retailer, Canada’s Weston family, had agreed on terms with Central Group in November. Following the report, an associate from a retail subsidiary of the firm denied the news, stating at the time: “The company would like to clarify that the company is not currently involved with the transaction reported in the news.” Reports yet to be confirmed New information issued by Reuters has now come to light, with source’s close to the media platform stating a deal is on the verge of closing. According to the publication, the Thai group’s main department store unit, Central Retail Corp Pcl, could potentially take a partial stake in Selfridges, however was still mulling the offer. Additionally, The Times also reported on the possible finalisation of the acquisition, further announcing that Central Group had possibly linked with Austria’s Signa Group for the deal. Both Central Group and Selfridges have not yet responded to requests for comment, at this time. Speculation regarding the sale has been growing since initial reports in June, which suggested the family had already received a four billion pound takeover offer for its UK properties. The Weston’s took over the retailer back in 2003, for 598 million pounds, driven by Galen Weston, who died in April this year.
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PETA renews action against LVMH with new investigation

Image: LVMH People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) has revealed a new investigation into the LVMH supply chain, exposing concerning conditions of animals used for some of the brand’s products. The luxury conglomerate, which owns the likes of Dior and Celine, has been called out by the Asian branch of the animal welfare group for the conditions at two of its Indonesian slaughterhouses, at which a number of workers were filmed bashing live snakes with hammers. In the disturbing video, pythons were shown hung up and filled with water in order to stretch their skin out. They are then stunned with a hammer and decapitated while still alive, according to the organisation. According to Dr. Clifford Warrick, a reptile expert that reviewed the footage, the method is considered “inhumane and unacceptable by international standards” and “would result in extreme stress and pain in the snakes.” In 2016, LVMH was already targeted by PETA, with an investigation into crocodile and ostrich farms linked as suppliers to the fashion house. Footage obtained by the organisation unveiled distressing conditions the animals were housed in, as well as cruel methods of slaughter endured. The organisation is urging LVMH to immediately cease selling exotic skins altogether, concluding: “Rather than exploring lush jungles and swamps and experiencing all the sensory pleasures that they’re so keenly attuned to, those in LVMH’s supply chain are abused and tormented just to make purses and shoes.”
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Kate Hudson transitions to advisory role for Fabletics

Image: Fabletics Activewear brand Fabletics has announced that co-founder Kate Hudson will be transitioning from principal face of the brand to an advisory role, eight years on from the brand’s founding. The announcement comes as the company looks towards “its next chapter and continued growth”, with Hudson to continue bringing her expertise as a strategic director, as well as remaining as a shareholder in the company. “When we first started out, the challenge was to build a successful company which filled the void in the market for premium quality, fashion-forward activewear at affordable prices, while staying true to our social values of inclusivity and community building,” said Huson, in a release. “As my role becomes less focused on being in front of the camera to becoming more of a strategic advisor, my passion for and investment in our mission is as strong as day one.” The company has recently executed an expansion in Europe, following the opening of its London and Berlin stores. It also looks to continue growing its omnichannel offering through in-store technologies and digitised fitting room experiences. In addition to Fabletics, Hudson has continued to drive start-ups, including, nutritional powder brand, In Bloom and King St. Vodka.
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Informa Markets Fashion Announces Edwina Kulego in New Leadership Role

Edwina Kulego. Image courtesy of Informa Markets Informa Markets Fashion, the host of international fashion trade and sourcing events including Project, Magic, and Coterie, has established a new role at the company entitled Vice President of International and Business Development. Appointed to the position charged with managing sponsorships, new business opportunities, and international development is Edwina Kulego, who returns to IMF after overseeing all aspects of business at Liberty Fairs, the contemporary fashion and lifestyle trade show. In commenting on her new role, Kulego expressed delight in re-joining the company where she began her career and acknowledged the importance of solidarity during these unpredictable times. “The world as we know it has changed significantly over the past two years and the importance of strengthening and supporting our global community is even more imperative,” she said. Kulego, who started at Project as an intern and worked her way up, can draw on a decade of leadership experience within the industry as she focuses her team on growing the company globally through new markets, strategic projects, and expanding both live and digital events. Prior to her time at Liberty, she worked to create the first International Business Development Department at Informa Markets in 2016, proceeded to launch what would become the first Project Tokyo, and has demonstrated expertise in advancing omnichannel solutions for the fashion B2B industry. In addition to her work traveling the world to make meaningful partnerships in fashion, Kulego founded her own makeup company in 2017 as another way to generate a positive impact. Essentials By Edwina, is a vegan, cruelty-free beauty brand designed for women of color to help balance the lack of diversity in the beauty industry.
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