Marks & Spencer rolls out loyalty scheme internationally

Image: Marks & Spencer Marks & Spencer has announced that it will be rolling out its Sparks loyalty scheme globally, across India and 25 other targeted online markets, including the US and Australia. Customers signed up with Sparks will have access to a personalised programme of offers and rewards. Additionally, those shopping in the British retailer’s 94 India-based stores will also have the chance to instantly win a free shopping spree. In the UK and Ireland, Sparks will continue to operate as a digital-first experience, with customers now able to purchase and be rewarded through the scheme via its international flagship websites, as well as the Marks & Spencer app in India. The roll out is credited to the Sparks platform’s ability to be scalable across multiple different markets, the retailer said in a release, which has further allowed it to understand its “growing” international customer base. “Over the last 18 months we’ve got on with the job of building and expanding the global reach of Marks & Spencer,” said Katie Bickerstaffe, co-chief executive. She continued: “But to become a truly global brand we need to make shopping at Marks & Spencer rewarding no matter where you shop. The reset of Sparks in the UK in 2020 delivered a step-change, and we’re now taking those lessons into international markets, so that we can better understand and serve our global customer base.”
http://dlvr.it/SbrGf6

Dune Group swings to profit amid pandemic recovery

Image: Dune, Facebook Dune swung to a profit in the year to January 29 after its stores reopened following the end of lockdowns. The London-based group made an EBITDA of 2.9 million pounds compared to a loss of 9.8 million pounds a year earlier. The company was hit hard by the pandemic when it was forced to close its stores across the UK and Europe. It launched a company voluntary arrangement (CVA) in 2021, resulting in the majority of its stores moving to a turnover rent-based model. A long list of other UK fashion companies launched CVAs during the pandemic, including LK Bennett, New Look, AllSaints, Bair Group, Hotter Shoes, and Monsoon Accessorize. Returning demand Dune said it has experienced an uplift in demand for fashion footwear and accessories since lockdown restrictions were eased. It said recovery post Covid has been “encouraging”, with many stores now achieving pre-pandemic levels of sales. During the year, Dune opened six outlet stores, one full price store, and has expanded the number of online marketplaces it partners with. The company also appointed Nigel Darwin as its new CEO last month. While Dune has shown signs of recovery from the pandemic, it warned that there remain challenges ahead, including “difficulties in shipping from suppliers which has resulted in stock shortages at times”. “The board actively manages the stock position and trading stance to ensure there is no significant disruption to operations,” it added.
http://dlvr.it/Sbk5Jt

Racers, cows and Balenciagamania: Street styles from Milan and Paris

Photo: Nick Leuze The fashion weeks of the SS23 season are behind us. However, as is well known, the trends can not only be found on the catwalks, but also on the streets. The looks can be calm and classic, but also really wild like in the cowshed. FashionUnited has summarized what was pulled out of the streetwear cauldron during the fashion weeks in Milan and Paris. Balenciagamania Balenciaga is a hot topic on the runway every season with his staging on the catwalk and the approach to design: a wild mix of controversy and kitsch squeezed into a mixture of streetwear and high fashion by creative director Demna Gvasalia. Between sportswear and rave look. Photos: Nick Leuze Fans not only dig into the French fashion house's pieces - sunglasses and bags with prints like the Eiffel Tower are popular - but also the aesthetic, which sits somewhere between rave culture and sportswear. This is crowned with pop culture elements and a pinch of ugly chic. The Hello Kitty fan meets Barbie Overload look meets outfits that could have come straight from a pop-punk music video from the 2010s. A movement that naturally stands out between elegant looks with long dresses and suits. Photos: Nick Leuze Racers The race driver looks also gains momentum. In pole position is the racing jacket, which uses the colors of the respective racing team and at the same time becomes a billboard for the many sponsors who adorn the jackets as photos or prints. A fashionable cover is supplied by the fashion house Prada, among others, which is active as an outfitter for various sports such as sailing and extreme sports and whose logo also adorns such jackets. Unlike on the racetrack, fashion for the racing theme offers significantly more scope and so a jersey with racing stripes can become a dress with cut-outs, which of course also promote the dynamic of the look. Racing jackets and other fast looks. Photos: Nick Leuze Witch Dance and the Modern Middle Ages Not only happy, playful looks were shown on the streets of Paris and Milan. A dark veil swept through the streets. A touch of gothic romance paired with a classic image of European witches. The black outfits brought back the Middle Ages with a twist through modern fabrics and combinations. A coarsely knitted top in combination with a hood and an iron belt are reminiscent of a modern form of knight's armor, which becomes a cool look with sunglasses. But a look of light-colored corsets with bows in combination with a dark, flared maxi skirt also fits in this direction. A dark hat, under the brim of which part of the face disappears, which is combined with a dark, closed coat, creates a much more reserved, but still similarly gloomy aura. It becomes mythical on the streets of Paris & Milan. Photos: Nick Leuze Matrix coats It stays dark: A long black leather coat takes center stage this season. Since the first Matrix film came out in the late 90s, the dark leather coat has had a strong appeal that is currently being used by women who wear it. The rest of the outfit becomes almost irrelevant and in most cases is quite reserved. A black turtleneck or a light blouse under the coat round off the look in a simple way. But actually almost everything can be worn or hidden under a black leather coat. Black leather coats. Photos: Nick Leuze Cow spots We stick to the leather, or rather its origin: the cow. The mammal's spots were a popular pattern on the streets of Paris and Milan. But it didn't necessarily have to be real leather, jackets made of animal-friendly, vegan leather look and plush coats were also on display. The spots also vary in looks between different shades of brown and black, just like real cows. Since the cow patch jacket is a real eye-catcher, the look can be rounded off with simple jeans and a turtleneck sweater that matches the color of the pattern. Cow spots. Fotos: Nick Leuze Casual tie During the women's fashion weeks, the focus was also on the street, especially on the womenswear looks. Of course men were also present. So that they don't feel like they're stepping on their toes, the last trend is dedicated to them, which appropriately focuses on the very formal accessory. This season, the tie has been recontextualized not only in womenswear – as part of the Y2K trend, the return of the rocking schoolgirl ala Avril Lavign with a loose tie knot over a simple top – but also in menswear. Here the tie remains pulled up, but is integrated into a casual look – far removed from the business look with a suit and patent-leather shoes. Casual Ties. Photos: Nick Leuze The possibilities are varied, whether in addition to a casual oversized shirt with a print, wide trousers and a peaked cap or in a leather version in combination with BDSM elements such as a dog collar, rivets and even more leather, the tie can be personalized and integrated style. This article was originally published on FashionUnited.DE, translated and edited to English.
http://dlvr.it/Sbg19n

End. opens first dedicated women’s store in Newcastle upon Tyne

Image: End. Women In Pictures Luxury retailer End. have opened its first dedicated womenswear store in Newcastle upon Tyne, UK, as part of its continued physical retail expansion that has included recent openings in Manchester, Newcastle and Glasgow. End. Women occupies the brand’s former location on Grainger Street and showcases a revamped store that blends End.’s signature stylistic codes and architectural details with a modern palette tailor-made to showcase their womenswear portfolio. Image: End. Women The store celebrates the diversity of womenswear, explained End., while offering “forward-thinking product and trailblazing collaborations,” across a varied selection of lifestyle, luxury, sneakers and sportswear, from cutting-edge contemporary and luxury favourites to athleisure staples and unisex products. Highlights include a modern skincare area and a sneaker zone. Rebecca Osei-Baidoo, womenswear buyer at End., said in a statement: “Women have always shopped at End. for the best menswear, adopting it and making it their own. With the opening of End. Women, we wanted to service our female customers and their unique style of dressing with authenticity. “Staying true to who we are, End. Women’s actively engages with our existing consumer, giving her a broader offering to seamlessly shop, and championing the way women are really dressing out in the world.” Image: End. Women Dedicated product launches for End. Women’s will be offered via the End. app and through the brand’s integrated omni-channel offering to seamlessly blend the women’s physical store with the End. online experience, added the retailer. In addition to the women’s store opening, End. added that it has plans to open its first dedicated flagship in Europe in early 2023, with the retailer selecting Milan for its “ground-breaking” store. Image: End. Women Image: End. Women
http://dlvr.it/Sbg0xb

Consumers want to shop sustainably, what are the opportunities for brands?

Image: Sustainable shopping via Pexels Report Consumers are weighing sustainability decisions when it comes to shopping for clothing, with half of shoppers expected to consider the environmental impact of what they buy. The data comes from Bain & Company and WWF Italy’s latest report, which says shopping and purchasing trends among global fashion consumers are shifting towards sustainable practices in the coming years, creating new opportunities as well as challenges for fashion brands. Research from ‘How Brands Can Embrace the Sustainable Fashion Opportunity’, Bain and WWF find 15 percent of global fashion consumers are already highly concerned about sustainability and consistently make purchasing decisions to lower their impact. But the report concludes that this percentage is will quickly grow to more than half of fashion consumers as more shoppers gravitate toward sustainable practices. 65 percent of consumers care about the environment The report, which examines consumer behaviors related to sustainability and fashion, shows that of the nearly 5,900 fashion consumers across six countries (China, France, Germany, Italy, Japan, UK and US) that Bain surveyed, approximately 65 percent said they care about the environment, but only some regularly prioritize sustainability in their shopping. “Sustainable shopping is an inevitable change. Concern for sustainability is strong among younger generations – and growing overall. Hence, fashion brands need to embrace the sustainability conversation and make sustainable purchasing easier for all consumers. Brands that proactively design sustainability into their strategy and operations will cement their relevance and capture a windfall of unmet demand, now and into the future,” said Claudia D’Arpizio, global head of Fashion & Luxury at Bain & Company. “In fact, everyone will benefit from a commitment to sustainability from the fashion industry”. Distinguishing sustainable fashion is a challenge for shoppers In the report, Bain and WWF found a third of consumers unable to distinguish sustainable products or brands from those that aren’t. That challenge increases with age. One out of three Baby Boomer and Silent Generation respondents said they don’t know where to find sustainability information for brands or products. By comparison, only one out of five Gen Z and Gen Y/Millennial respondents reported the same difficulty. Be transparent In order to accelerate sustainable shopping, in-store displays, labels, and product descriptions need to be clear, easily available, and reliable, says the report. Best-in-class brands already include supply chain and partner information, material descriptions, and stories about the communities involved in the making of their clothing. Shedding light on their production processes engages consumers in a genuine and transparent way. Product packaging is another means to communicate (and practice) sustainability. Appeal to value-driven shoppers Brands can capitalise on the quality and durability aspects of sustainable fashion and appeal to value-seeking shoppers, as long as they achieve durability without compromising any social or environmental factors. By positioning durability as an element of sustainable fashion, brands offer consumers a win-win situation. Sustainable shopping should be easy Many shoppers follow the path of least resistance; their shopping habits are driven by convenience rather than social impact or public opinion. But with simpler and more convenient options, they would increase their sustainable purchasing. Have a sustainability mission Brands that proactively design sustainability into their strategy and operations will cement their relevance and capture a windfall of unmet demand, now and into the future. Most consumers want to purchase more sustainably; they just need help doing so. “Fashion brands are on the cusp of a great opportunity but are often overwhelmed by complexity, especially along lengthy supply chains. Brands have a social role in this epoch-making change: they are called to address the information gap, engage consumers on product durability and impact; and make sustainable purchases more convenient and appealing. This will make them successful, while help shifting consumers toward more sustainable consumption,”, concluded Federica Levato, senior partner at Milan’s office and EMEA Leader of Fashion & Luxury at Bain. Article source: 'How Brands Can Embrace the Sustainable Fashion Opportunity,' Bain & Company and WWF Italy
http://dlvr.it/SbcLYc

Female-founded Birdies achieves B Corp certification

Image: Birdies, Facebook Footwear brand Birdies has announced that it has achieved B Corporation certification, which it said has reinforced its ongoing commitment towards “making a great impact for good”. The female-founded company joins over 5,000 global businesses to receive such a certification. To become a B Corp, Birdies underwent a “rigorous review” by B Lab, the governing body of the certification which examines a company’s overall impact through all aspects of its operations. It builds on the San Francisco-based brand’s efforts to prioritise socially responsible action, with it previously launching a series of mentorships, charity initiatives and community building programmes through notable partnerships. In a release, Bianca Gates, Birdies’ co-founder and CEO, said: “Birdies B Corp certification reflects our ongoing commitment to building a brand that doesn’t just offer feel-good shoes, but one that offers shoes you can feel good about wearing. “We’re honoured to join this incredible movement of socially and environmentally responsible businesses dedicated to the same goal of creating tangible and visible change.” The brand’s other co-founder, Marisa Sharkey, said that the B Corp will offer Birdies a “powerful way” to accelerate its transformation around how it does business, enabling it to participate in making the world a better place.
http://dlvr.it/SbKrHY

Frasers says MySale offer unconditional as it surpasses 50 percent stake

Image: MySale, Facebook Following a series of attempts to acquire the entire ordinary share capital of MySale, Frasers Group has now said its mandatory offer for the marketplace has become unconditional. In a release published through the London Stock Exchange, the fashion conglomerate, which counts the likes of Sports Direct and House of Fraser among its portfolio, noted that the revision comes as its holding in the company has grown over a majority stake. As of 5pm GMT, October 17, the group now owns or has received valid acceptances of MySale shares representing 50.59 percent of its issued shared capital. In the release, the group said that if it receives acceptances under its current mandatory offer or otherwise acquires 90 percent of shares, it intends to acquire the marketplace’s remaining shares under the same terms of its initial offer. It added that if it holds 75 percent of the issued share capital of MySale, it will consider making an application to cancel the admission of the Australian company’s shares to trade on AIM. Frasers notes intention to continue snapping up shares Frasers does intend to continue acquiring additional shares of the retailer, and noted that any shareholders who wished to transfer their holdings to Frasers can do so through a market sale or accepting its mandatory offer. The group initially announced it would be making an offer on MySale on August 17, later confirming this intention with an offer at a price of two pence per MySale share. Since the announcement, it has continued snapping up bigger stakes in the retailer as it put pressure on its board of directors to accept the offer. While MySale’s board at first requested shareholders to decline Frasers’ offer on the basis that it “undervalued” the company, it later reversed its decision and urged its shareholders to approve, despite continuing to disagree with the two pence share price. Yesterday, October 17, Frasers once again put further pressure on MySale shareholders by urging them to accept the offer, after noting its intention to possibly take the company off AIM and re-register it as a Jersey private company. The closing date of the recommended mandatory offer is 1pm GMT, November 1.
http://dlvr.it/SbKr4b

Retailers hiring holiday staff numbers reflective of state of economy

Pexels Holiday hiring at retailers has always been a sign of a healthy economy. People are shopping more, seasonal paychecks are putting more money in retail workers' pockets, and retailers have high hopes of ending Q4 with a healthy bottom line. This year with caution over inflation, holiday hiring is looking like a mixed bag, reflective of retailers' caution about the current recession we are in. Target is adding its usual 100,000 holiday workers. Meanwhile, Walmart is only hiring 40,000 compared to its past 150,000. Amazon has frozen corporate hiring, but plans on hiring a staggering 400,000 retail workers. Will the holiday hiring spree be what it used to be? As early as September, CNN reported companies were growing cautious of holiday hiring plans. Employers are already pulling back on the normal holiday hiring spree. Economists say this is a forecast of a recession, but there’s also the argument that we are already in a global recession. The bright side is, despite inflation, consumer spending has held up well. Still, with the recent hike in interest rates by The Federal Reserve, economists and retailers are cautious, as this could still affect holiday spending. This year is unique compared to last year because much of last year’s uptick in seasonal hiring was due to retailers trying to stave off staffing shortages from rising COVID-19 infections. Many companies are planning on trimming hiring this year, but others, like UPS, are continuing with their usual holiday target of 100,000 hires. ZipRecruiter chief economist Julia Pollak recently appeared on Yahoo Finance Live to discuss holiday hiring and the state of the labor market. During her segment, Pollak said this is the toughest environment employers can be in for the holidays. Employers are simultaneously concerned about ensuring they have enough staff to meet customer demand for the holidays, and at the same time are also concerned about a possible economic downturn. The bright side is layoffs and firings remain very low, and jobless claims also remain low. Job gains are also still incredibly broad-based. The downside is consumers are cautious about big-ticket purchases. Car purchases are declining, and car dealerships are laying people off. Hiring is also interesting right now in other sectors, as there are hiring freezes and job losses in some, but strategic hiring in others. Some companies looking for employees are even speeding up times to hire as part of strategic growth strategies. Even branches of USPS have recently reported they are swamped as they are preparing to ramp up holiday hiring. Amazon also announced a week ago that 150,000 of the holiday workers they plan on hiring will get a 3000 dollar signing bonus. One silver lining for this year is that two years after the COVID-19 lockdown, consumers have safely returned to in-door shopping. While holiday sales growth is expected to slow compared to last year due to inflation, growth is still expected. Deloitte estimates growth between 4 percent and 6 percent in 2022, compared to an increase of 15.1 percent during last year’s period, but at least the economy isn’t looking like it will contract. Holiday hiring, very much like the economy, looks strong in some areas and weak in others. If the holiday hiring period is any indication, the economy will continue being temperamental with highs and lows.
http://dlvr.it/SbC0gw

Bestseller expects challenging year ahead

Image: Jack & Jones, Facebook Following record growth in 2021-22, Bestseller expects more challenging market conditions in the coming year. The company said in a statement that while Bestseller achieved remarkable results in the past two financial years, recent months – and the global economic and geopolitical situation indicate the current year will be more challenging. “There’s no doubt it’ll be more difficult from here, and we can see the global challenges also reflected in our numbers,” said Anders Holch Povlsen, CEO of Bestseller. Bestseller's revenue increased by 33 percent during the year under review with a pre-tax profit of 6 billion Danish krona. “The result was largely driven by strong performances in the first three quarters, while the last months of the financial year indicate the changes taking place in the global economy as a whole,” added Povlsen. Povlsen further said: “Even though the last few months and the next several seem to be difficult, we will not stop investing in what’s most important to us. Namely our people, who make all the difference for our company, and the necessary sustainability improvements we and everyone else must contribute to.” In connection with the publication of the annual result, Bestseller will also pay an extra month’s salary to colleagues. The company will pay out 300 million Danish krona in an extraordinary bonus.
http://dlvr.it/SZpXc8

The Body Shop unveils activism-focused store in Stratford

Image: The Body Shop, Facebook British beauty company The Body Shop has revealed its newly refurbished concept store in Westfield, Stratford, which has a particular focus on its activist heritage. The store is designed to encourage local residents to explore products, share ideas and discover how to speak up against injustices, the brand said in a release. Redesigned with a ‘Workshop’ concept, the location takes cues from an artisan workshop and comes complete with an ‘Activism’ area, as well as a product ‘Refill Station’. Its Activism hub aims to help customers get involved with The Body Shop and the British Youth Council’s joint campaign for ‘Votes at 16’, which highlights unfairness in the UK’s electoral system and is calling for young people to receive full voting rights by 2024. Additionally, its Refill Station comes as part of a growing initiative by the retailer to make refilling empty product bottles mainstream. Currently, 170 of its UK stores offer the circular feature, while another 105 stations are expected to open before the end of 2022. At the locations, customers can purchase a refillable aluminium bottle and fill it up with a selection of the brand’s products. The opening marks The Body Shop’s 37th Workshop Store in the UK, with the company looking to continue expanding its network with an additional 20 more stores set to open in 2023. In a release, Maddie Smith, managing director UK and Ireland, said the launch of the workshops concept is part of a “very practical mission” to change consumer behaviour. Smith continued: “We want to bring people together to realise they are capable of making small changes that could benefit our communities and the planet. “At our new Stratford store, we want people to get talking, get inspired and get active. We want our customers to have fun playing with our products but also have conversations about issues that affect them, helping us campaign to progress equality.”
http://dlvr.it/SZfrkr

Frasers Group buys more MySale sales, urges shareholders to accept takeover

Image: Frasers Group Frasers Group has further increased its stake in Australian fashion marketplace MySale as it urged the company’s shareholders to back its takeover offer. The group said Monday it has acquired 100,000,000 MySale shares from Jackson Family Capital and bought 62,145,385 shares from founder and chair Jamie Jackson. It has also swapped its interest in contracts for difference into 1,400,000 shares and acquired 13,161,748 shares “by means of market or other purchases”. Last month, Frasers Group made a mandatory cash offer to acquire the entire share capital of MySale Group at a price of 2 pence per share. Mysale directors rejected the takeover bid, saying it did not “reflect an adequate value or premium for control of Mysale and therefore undervalues Mysale and its prospects”. Frasers Group urged Mysale shareholders on Monday to accept the takeover offer, and warned it could de-list the company from the stock exchange even if the takeover isn’t accepted.
http://dlvr.it/SZQl0k

Brazilian voters wear loyalty on their sleeves

Image: Pexels Rio de Janeiro - Brazilians wore their loyalty on their sleeves, literally, as they turned out in large numbers Sunday dressed to flaunt their political preference in a polarized presidential election. Many were decked out from head to toe in the red of leftist front-runner Luiz Inacio Lula da Silva's Workers' Party, others in the yellow-and-green Brazilian colors far-right incumbent Jair Bolsonaro has claimed as his own. It is a reflection of the tribalized nature of Brazilian politics, and made for colorful scenes at voting stations in Rio de Janeiro, Sao Paulo and Brasilia with bandanas, flags, shirts, stickers, even lipstick and colored sunglasses chosen to match a voter's political leaning. “There is no secret vote... it's all in plain sight,” Debora Mattos, 45, told AFP after casting her vote near Rio's famous Copacabana tourist beach. She wore a T-shirt with an image of the Brazilian flag; a white top with the words “Bolsonaro president” and the incumbent's face tied around her waist. Brazilian law allows individual voters to wear clothing or paraphernalia advertising their political allegiance, as long as they do not distribute party political material or engage in campaigning. As red- and yellow-clad voters mixed in thousands of voting queues around Latin America's biggest democracy, there were no reports of disagreements half-way into the eight hours of voting. Bolsonaro himself voted in Rio de Janeiro in a T-shirt of yellow and green. Lula opted for a more statesmanly look: casting his ballot in Sao Paulo state in a dark suit and a blue button-up shirt. Unlike Bolsonaro, who had urged his supporters to turn out in the national colors as he had, Lula told his fans to come any which way they liked. Just come. In the capital, Brasilia, 32-year-old policeman Andre Ribeiro took the bold step of draping himself in a Worker's Party flag in a Bolsonaro-majority area where he was a red speck in a sea of yellow and green. He complained of followers of Bolsonaro “stealing” the national colors. At a polling station in Rio, Marcio Lessa, 59, opted for white. “I'm afraid of being attacked,” he told AFP, flashing an “L” with his right thumb and forefinger while silently mouthing “Lula.” Some chose their outfit to make a different point: about unity. One of them, 32-year-old Juliana Trevisan, 32, wore a green-and-yellow shirt... with Lula's image, voting in Rio (AFP).
http://dlvr.it/SZQFWr

Kering Eyewear completes acquisition of Maui Jim

Image: Maui Jim, Facebook Kering Eyewear has announced that it now holds more than 90 percent of the sunglasses brand Maui Jim, with the remaining shares expected to be acquired by year-end. The company said in a statement that Maui Jim was consolidated in Kering accounts starting from October 1, 2022. Founded in 1987, Maui Jim, headquartered in Peoria, Illinois, is one of the world's fastest-growing high-end eyewear companies, and its products are sold in more than 100 countries. Recognized for its outstanding technicity and distinctive Hawaiian heritage, the brand engineered the proprietary and patented revolutionary PolarizedPlus2 lens technology which protects from intense glare and harmful UV while enhancing colour naturally perceived by the eye. Launched in 2014, Kering Eyewear reached more than 700 million euros in external revenues in FY2021. The company added that the acquisition of Maui Jim represents a major milestone in the expansion strategy of Kering Eyewear.
http://dlvr.it/SZQFHm

Democratization, Fashion Weeks’ secret to offset 600 million pandemic loss

Image: Carmen González for FashionUnited The global fashion industry faces a bumpy road ahead. Not only they have to figure out their own logistics conundrums but to reinvent the supply chain, re-connect with consumers and make up for double-digit decline in revenues. At a global level, the fashion industry posted a 20 percent decline in revenues in the 2019–20 period, with margins for earnings before interest, taxes, and amortization (EBITA) dropping almost 4 percent to 6.8 percent, as indicated in the latest edition of McKinsey State of the Fashion Report. Fashion Weeks around the world transitioned from traditional runways to virtual shows, leaving the cities that host the ‘Big Four’ (London, New York, Paris, and Milan) of these week-long fashion shows reeling with more than 600 million dollars lost in economic activity. Covid’s millionaire financial loss for mayor fashion weeks Burberry was one of the four brands that were able to go ahead and show at the London Fashion Week in September 2020. Back then, Caroline Rush, the chief executive of the British Fashion Council, said designers were using the limits imposed by the virus to think of alternative ways to show off their work. That translated into hundreds of brands switching their shows and catwalks online, with the resulting slash to local businesses across hospitality, travel, retail, and related industries, which would have otherwise welcomed millions of customers. FashionUnited’s Business Intelligence estimated LFW to generate over 300 million dollars for the city. Furthermore, Oxford Economics calculated that over 240,000 direct jobs were lost due to fashion week being hosted online. This number goes up to 350,000 if including indirect job losses. Delivered by the British Fashion Council, the London Fashion Week (LFW) is the UK’s major trade event. Right before the pandemic, from 2018 to 2019, London Fashion Week generated 110 million pounds in new orders, investment and trade, as highlighted by the Mayor of London Office. New York, once dubbed the world’s capital of fashion, remains focused on bouncing back from the financial fallout brought on by the pandemic. Eric Adams, the city mayor since early 2021, refered to the New York Fashion Week as a “600 million dollars juggernaut” that brings the city “twice the amount that we’d make if we had the Super Bowl here”. Experts in the field point out that before the pandemic hit, the two biannual fashion weeks added about 900 million dollars to the city economy. Indeed, the annual economic contribution of New York Fashion Week upon New York City was estimated at 887 million dollars in 2016 by the CFDA. Similarly, the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (FHCM) calculates that the Paris Fashion Week, another of the ‘Big Four’ fashion shows, generates 1.2 billion euros in economic spinoffs yearly (about 440 million euros of fashion shows and events combined and another 725 million euros worth of trade fairs and related events.) But this is not the full extent to it, as the French fashion used to prompt an estimated 10.3 billion euros in total sales. In Milan, the economy thrives the months that fashion shows happen, as summer and spring fashion weeks bring an aggregated 30 million euros in spending in hotels and restaurants alone, per the Italian Fashion Chamber’s calculations. In 2021, the Milan Fashion Week moved to a fully digital structure, with the odd, very limited, socially distanced shows for buyers and media. As a result, the city’s related income fell by approximately 80 percent, according to the chamber. The power of more democratic fashion Before Covid, access to fashion weeks was very exclusive and certainly pricey. Admission to runway shows used to be by invitation only, often reserved for wealthy consumers able to pay hundreds – or even thousands – of dollars to enjoy the front row. But as Anita Balchandani from McKinsey put it in a podcast assessing the value destruction caused since early 2020 across the fashion world, “This pandemic has forced a demand rethink, certainly in the earlier part of the crisis.” She alludes to different factors driving this needed rethink, highlighting that “A lot of the channels that a number of brands would rely on—for example, wholesale channels, independent retailers, et cetera—have actually been at the sharp end of and seen the pain from the crisis.” Open to try new ways to connect with consumers, Milan Fashion Week turned to social media in February 2021, hosting their opening night as an Instagram Live party with a DJ set instead of an in-person soiree. They also wanted to keep the city involved, despite the dire circumstances. In a “symbolic gesture,” Carlo Capasa, the Italian Fashion Chamber’s chairman and chief executive, explained that people in the streets could watch live shows by iconic brands including Armani, Prada, Fendi and Dolce & Gabbana on big screens in strategic locations across central Milan. The initiative wanted to be “A reminder for the people of Milan that fashion is still part of everybody’s life, resilient despite the Covid crisis, still able to incarnate the city’s values: creativity and efficiency.” The welcome was so positive that following after-pandemic fashion weeks have kept that element. Similarly, last year, Shanghai Fashion Week increased its exposure on social media by partnering with Tiktok to launch a China Independent Designer Support Program, which resulted into a new event called "Shanghai Fashion & Lifestyle Carnival". The Chinese fashion show also increased the number of participating brands (a 2.3 percent lift compared to 2020.) It was the only larger fashion week which increased the level of brands participation, exceeding the pre-pandemic levels of 2019, per China Economic Information Service (CEIS) data. For Balchandani the pivot to digital has been huge: “If you were a player that wasn’t fully able to capitalize on that, then we’ve typically seen a deflection; brands and consumers absolutely have shown to us during the crisis that they’re open for change. They’re open to trying new brands.” This democratization of fashion is also opening the doors to smaller businesses and newer designers who wouldn’t traditionally be able to afford participating in the top fashion weeks’ circuit. A good example of this approach is the multi-year partnership entered by Afterpay and the Fashion Weeks in London and New York. The buy-now-pay-later company looks to part ways the traditional top-down approach of these shows and shifting the focus from fashion editors and buyers to consumers. In New York, this deal has translated into fashion brands like Altuzarra streaming their runways digitally across the US via the Afterpay hub, allowing consumers to buy select looks from the catwalk. Immersive pop-up stores, digital activations at Time Square and Metaverse-first collections are being organized to bring together consumers and brands. “We’re giving small businesses exposure in a block-style shopping activation that they wouldn’t have been able to have in a traditional NYFW schedule,” says Molnar. “We’re really thinking about the whole gamete and all ends of the retail spectrum…it gives me goosebumps just thinking about it,” Afterpay co-founder Nick Molnar explained in a recent interview with ‘Grazia US’. The end game? Helping recover NYFW’s place at the helm of the international fashion circuit whilst aiding the city’s economy. That renewed interest in alternative channels, formats, and more importantly, brands, was made even clearer in the Global Fashion Industry Index - Fashion Week Vitality Index Report 2021 published by CEIS. This report pointed out that while the global fashion industry is gradually recovering in a post-pandemic world, the digitalization of the fashion industry has been accelerated in these past couple of years, boosting omni-channel fashion weeks that combine online and offline shows to attract new consumer needs and desires. The latest edition of this report, released in September 2021, shows how Paris Fashion Week, Milan Fashion Week, London Fashion Week and Shanghai Fashion Week ranked the top four respectively, while New York Fashion Week moved backward to the fifth compared with its ranking in 2020 and China Fashion Week, Tokyo Fashion Week and Seoul Fashion Week ranked the sixth to eighth.
http://dlvr.it/SZPpt1

Zegna communications director to step down

Courtesy of Zegna PR and communications director of the Zegna Group Domenico Galluccio has announced his intention to step down from the company to pursue a new opportunity. The news was revealed via an internal memo by the group’s chief marketing and sustainability officer Edoardo Zegna, which was acquired by FashionUnited. Galluccio will be departing from September 30 after three years of “fruitful collaboration with the group”, as detailed in the note. Zegna went on to say: “We wish to thank him for contributing to the development of the group communication strategy.” Galluccio’s former responsibilities will be divided between two employees. Francesca Di Pasquantonio, the group’s director of investor relations, will take the responsibility of group and corporate communication. Joining October 10, Valentina Abbà will take on the role of PR & communication director, working directly with Zegna. The exec said that he hoped the new organisation will allow the company to consolidate its relationships while also wishing Galluccio luck on his endeavours.
http://dlvr.it/SZK2H6