Vogue pays tribute to Karl Lagerfeld ahead of Met Gala

Image: Karl Lagerfeld archive American Vogue has cast iconic designer Karl Lagerfeld in the spotlight, featuring 10 looks of the master’s creations for the cover of its May issue, photographed at the Palais Royal in Paris by Annie Leibovitz. With a career spanning seven decades, Mr Lagerfeld’s tenures at Fendi and Chanel, respectively starting in 1967 and 1983, were for life, and ended at both houses at his death in 2019. Ahead of next month’s Met Ball, the annual fundraising gala for the Metropolitan Museum’s Costume Institute, Vogue has published a tribute led by editor in chief Anna Wintour, who is also the mastermind behind the museum's annual event. Mr Lagerfeld famously quipped fashion didn’t belong in museums and yet so much of his life’s work is a celebration of his unequivocal creative genius. "Fashion doesn't belong in museums" In its May issue, Vogue interviews ten designers who praised Mr Lagerfeld, giving personal anecdotes and insights into their relationships, including Pierpaolo Piccioli of Valentino, Thom Browne, Donatella Versace, Jun Takahashi of Undercover, Christopher John Rogers, John Galliano of Maison Margiela, Olivier Rousteing of Balmain, Chitose Abe of Sacai, Gucci and Simone Rocha. This year’s Met Gala honours Mr Lagerfeld by focusing on the designer’s stylistic vocabulary as expressed in aesthetic themes that appear time and again in his fashions from the 1950s to his final collection in 2019. The show will spotlight the German-born designer’s unique working methodology, with most of the approximately 150 pieces on display to be accompanied by Lagerfeld’s sketches, which underscore his complex creative process and the collaborative relationships with his premieres, or head seamstresses. Lagerfeld’s fluid lines united his designs for Balmain, Patou, Chloé, Fendi, Chanel, and his eponymous label, Karl Lagerfeld, creating a diverse and prolific body of work unparalleled in the history of fashion. One of the most striking photo’s in Vogue’s shoot includes model Naomi Campbell holding Choupette, Mr Lagerfeld’s beloved cat. The exhibition Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty opens to the public May 5th. American Vogue's May issue is out now.
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Chimera and Haeres launch a joint venture and acquire Vionnet

Image: ChimHaeres; Philippe Camperio, founder of Haeres Capital and chief executive of ChimHaeres Abu Dhabi-based investment firm Chimera has launched a joint venture with Haeres Capital to create a new luxury and lifestyle European player looking to revive French haute couture label Vionnet, while seeking other opportunities in Italy, France, Switzerland, and the UK. The new joint venture will be called ChimHaeres Investment Holding and will deploy its own capital towards the acquisition and build-up of luxury and lifestyle brands in Europe, starting with the storied brand Vionnet. In a statement, ChimHaeres said it has acquired 100 percent of Vionnet, the French haute couture label founded in 1912 by Madeleine Vionnet. In 2018, the French label and its holding company NVO Srl went through a voluntary liquidation. ChimHaeres also secured a majority stake in Swiss fashion hosiery brand Fogal founded in 1921 and completed a majority stake in Zagato, the Italian coachbuilder and car designer, founded in 1919. In addition, Haeres added that it is folding into the new vehicle its majority equity stake in hat manufacturer Borsalino, established in 1857 in Italy. ChimHaeres will be led by chief executive Philippe Camperio, founder of Haeres Capital, and supported by a strong team of industry veterans, including Antonella di Pietro, Alberto Nathansohn, Giacomo Santucci and Jérôme Macario, as well as a seasoned team of experts in the operations, financial, and legal fields. Commenting on the launch, Camperio said: “ChimHaeres embodies the shared vision of both Chimera and Haeres to build and manage a multi-brand luxury and lifestyle platform. The partnership will invest in unique European assets applying a pro-active management and ownership approach, through dedicated industry experts, to deliver the long-term strategies of each portfolio company.” ChimHaeres acquires Vionnet and majority stakes in Fogal and Zagato ChimHaeres said it remains on the “lookout for investments in strong aspirational luxury and lifestyle brands with high growth potential”. The aim is to accelerate these brands' growth with a focus on international expansion, digital transformation, and sustainability. The initial focus will be on brands and companies in the UK, Italy, France, and Switzerland. Giovanni Maria Rossi was named chairman of ChimHaeres and said: “I strongly believe that thanks to the team, the vision, the experience, and the available capital now in place, ChimHaeres is ideally positioned to become a key player in the luxury industry in Europe.” Mirian Khalaf, head of private equity at Chimera Abu Dhabi, added: “The global luxury market has shown remarkable growth and resilience in recent years despite the pandemic and various macroeconomic and geopolitical challenges. We are confident that our partnership with Haeres will enable us to capitalise on the attractive long-term fundamentals of the industry and establish ourselves as a leading investor in the European lifestyle space. “We look forward to working with Philippe and his team to position appealing ‘legacy’ and ‘next gen’ brands with favourable growth profiles to serve a younger and increasingly more global audience.” ChimHaeres is registered in Abu Dhabi Global Market (ADGM) with operating entities in Milan, Italy and Geneva, Switzerland.
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Zara enters publishing together with Wallpaper magazine

Spanish fast fashion brand Zara, part of the Inditex group, is venturing into a new area: Together with British magazine Wallpaper, which specialises in design, architecture, fashion, travel, art and lifestyle, it has launched a 300-page coffee table book titled “Where to now”. It is actually a box set of five photography books for “would be adventurers” according to Zara. In the spirit of travel and adventure, each volume is dedicated to an off-the-beaten-track destination: Bruton in the green southwest of England, California's Ojai in the Topatopa Mountains, Galicia in northwestern Spain, the Japanese island of Naoshima, and the Namibian capital of Windhoek. “Where to now” Bruton by Zara and Wallpaper. Images: Zara According to Zara and Wallpaper, the coffee table book is meant more as a “travelogue than a travel guide” and also includes various notes that, along with the photos, are aimed at both the “armchair traveller and the enthusiastic explorer”. “Carefully crafted images and texts that suggest a calmer pace of life and offer peaceful encounters with stores, hotels, people, alleys, street vendors and small architectural wonders,” explains the Zara and Wallpaper team. “Where to now” Namibia by Zara and Wallpaper. Images: Zara The essays were written by Wallpaper editors Simon Mills and Pei-Ru Keh, and contributors Celeste Chipperfield, Jens H Jensen and Mazi Odu. The destinations were photographed by Salva López and Luis Díaz Díaz for the Galicia volume, Sophie Green for Bruton, Den Niwa for Naoshima, Kent Andreasen for Namibia and Pia Riverola for Ojai. “Where to now” Ojai by Zara and Wallpaper. Images: Zara The coffee table book costs 79.95 euros and is available via the Zara website. The respective photo volumes can also be purchased individually at a price of 17.95 euros. In addition to the photo books, Zara also sells notebooks for 9.95 euros, mini notebooks for 5.95 euros and posters for 25.95 euros with the motifs from the photo books. Although Zara Home has previously offered stationery, it remains to be seen whether Inditex's flagship brand Zara will venture into publishing in the future. In any case, the brand seems to want to get rid of its fast fashion image and has entered, for example, a supply deal with the Infinited Fiber Company, launched a detergent that reduces microfibre shedding and offers a resale programme, repair service and charity opportunies through Zara Pre-Owned. “Where to now” Naoshima by Zara and Wallpaper. Images: Zara The brand has also started a new beauty line, Zara Beauty, and the line Zara Atelier with only two collections per year as well as collaboration with brands like Clarks, Ader Error and others. Customers seem to like it as Inditex (not least through flagship brand Zara) is experiencing record highs in terms of revenue and profits. “Where to now” Galicia. Images: Zara
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Burberry to create costumes for The Royal Ballet

Daniel Lee, chief creative officer of Burberry. Image: Burberry British luxury brand Burberry is set to embark on a new venture, unveiling its plans to collaborate with director and choreographer Wayne McGregor on costumes for his latest work for The Royal Ballet. The currently untitled production is set to debut June 9, and will be performed at the Royal Opera House in London. The costumes themselves will be designed by Burberry’s new chief creative officer Daniel Lee, who made his London Fashion Week debut for the house’s autumn/winter 2023 season. On his appointment, Lee was tasked with reviving the brand’s quintessential Britishness, which had begun to slip away under its previous creative director Riccardo Tisci. This goal was mirrored in the decision to partner with The Royal Ballet, a press release noted, a first for the brand as it looks to tap into the event’s contemporary culture and creativity. Lee commented: “It is such a pleasure, and of course an honour, to collaborate on this extraordinary project with such a remarkable team. “It’s always been a dream to create costumes for dance, which is such a passion of mine.” Similarly, McGregor also expressed his excitement in a statement, calling Lee “an artist with unbridled imagination” that was “creating work of innovation, motion, and piercing beauty”. McGregor continued: “And with his exceptional passion for all forms of dance, he felt like a natural ally. “Together, with the Burberry team, we are working on something truly special – honouring Carmen [Herrera, the late minimalist artist] whilst forging our own evolutionary path.”
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Kitty and Vibe names three creative designers and celebrity investors

Image: Kitty and Vibe; Nicole Byer, Zoe Colletti and Sloane Stephens Austin, Texas-based inclusive swimwear brand Kitty and Vibe has announced that comedian Nicole Byer, actress Zoe Colletti and tennis player Sloane Stephens have all invested in the brand and will become its first class of creative directors. In a statement, Kitty and Vibe said that Byer, Colletti and Stephens would each design their own exclusive swimsuit prints inspired by their personalities and styles. These prints will then be available in the brand’s best-selling swimwear styles, as well as new silhouettes consulted by the creative designers themselves. Commenting on the brand’s new celebrity investors, Cameron Armstrong, founder and chief executive officer at Kitty and Vibe, said: “When considering partners, it was imperative that we stayed true to our values as a company, intentionally selecting inspiring women who truly embody and represent our ‘Kind Is My Vibe’ mission, our daily reminder to be kind to ourselves, our bodies, and others. “Each designer brings their own energy and vibe to the brand which will be reflected in their individual collections. We’re excited to grow our Kitty and Vibe community, introduce our swimsuit shopping solutions to each designer’s audience, and roll out these new vibes!” The swimwear brand adds that the first class of creative directors represents its “diverse community of consumers across varying ages, body types, races, and lifestyles,” and will launch their limited-edition look for summer 2023. Nicole Byer, Zoe Colletti and Sloane Stephens invest in Kitty and Vibe Kitty and Vibe was launched in 2018 to change the long-standing negativity surrounding swimwear by offering swimsuits customised to fit all bodies. The brand is achieving this with its first-to-market sizing metric developed in-house that takes both hip and booty sizing into account. This approach makes them the first swimwear brand to use inseam measurements to address the wide variation in sizing that was previously ignored by the industry to give its customers the best fit. In addition to normal hip sizes, all Kitty and Vibe bikini bottoms are available in two inseam sizes to ensure a proper fit and all bikini tops are sold by cup size, catering to cup sizes A to H. American tennis player Sloane Stephens, said: “As a female athlete, I’ve struggled to find cute swimsuits that flatter and fit my muscular build. When I heard about Kitty and Vibe’s transformative bikini bottom sizing metric, a huge differentiator in the swimwear industry, I became a true fan of the brand and was so excited to finally find a swimsuit that perfectly fit my booty. “Kitty and Vibe celebrates all body types, and I can’t wait to share my personalised designs with the world!” Actress, comedian, producer, writer, and director Nicole Byer added: “Okay so, I love my body in a bathing suit. It's yummy as hell and I want others to love their bodies and feel good in the bodies they have. “For that to happen, bathing suit brands need to have size inclusivity, which is why I’m so happy to be working with Kitty and Vibe. They understand that small divas all the way to the big divas need to look and feel good. I’ve always wanted to create a bathing suit line and now my lil dream is a reality and that’s a real treat for me."
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Clarks UK managing director exits

Image: Clarks Footwear retailer Clarks has reportedly said farewell to Joe Ulloa, the managing director of its UK, Ireland and MEA business. According to Drapers, Jonathan Ram, who was appointed to the role of CEO in April 2022, will take on the UK and Ireland team until a successor has been selected. In a statement to the media outlet, a spokesperson for the company said: “Clarks can confirm that after a successful period with the business, Joe Ulloa has stepped down from his role as managing director for the UK, ROI and MEA and has left Clarks. “CEO Jon Ram is leading the UK and ROI team in the interim period as Clarks recruits Joe’s replacement.” The reason for his departure was not disclosed. Ulloa initially joined Clarks in 2017, first appointed to the position of retail and franchise director of the UK and Europe before becoming managing director of UK and Ireland in 2019. He took on his most recent role in 2021. Prior to Clarks, Ulloa worked at the likes of Harrods, L’Occitane and Gap, where he held various leadership roles, including regional director of Gap Inc. Since the appointment of its new CEO, Clarks has been upping efforts to cement its presence in retail and with younger consumers. This has seen the retailer introduce a new retail concept to rejuvenate its identity, and establish notable partnerships with the likes of Salehe Bembury, Pokémon and Deichmann. It has also increased its digital presence, entering various online metaverse spaces with activations that look to appeal to Gen Z consumers.
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Dior in Mumbai: Parisian showmanship meets Indian craft

Image: Dior PreFall PO F23 100 via Spotlight Launchmetrics The house of Christian Dior has deep established ties with India’s artisanship. The brand’s Pre-Fall 2023 collection, unveiled in Mumbai last week, was an ode to celebrating the textiles and embroideries that silently grace the Paris catwalks each season. With a backdrop of the landmark Gateway of India and a visceral multi-colour floral runway heavy with marigold and dreamy lighting, the handicrafts of the Chanakya Ateliers, where age-old techniques of embroideries decorate garments from Fendi to Valentino to Dior, could be seen up close and personal. The show, which drew an international audience of 850 people, including actors, celebrities, editors and influencers, was less Haute Bollywood than an acknowledgment of India’s savoir faire as a contribution to the House. Dior’s artistic director Maria Grazia Chiuri incorporated traditional textile techniques into her designs, without resorting too much to 'homage styling', as is often the case when designers openly reference geographical craft. Ms Chiuri embraced not just embroidery but also weaving and beadwork on intricate patterned garments like tunics, saris and Nehru collared shirts, accessories, and jewellery. With a casting that featured mostly local models, the show was more than an ode to Indian artisanship, with a dual purpose to also bring the business of Dior to a country with an ever-growing middle class. Here the growth opportunities in India's home market are proving to be a land of opportunity for luxury brands. With rapid urbanisation comes a rising disposable income, which jumped 24 percent between 2019 and 2022, said CNN. E-commerce is also booming, with sales forecast to reach 24 billion dollars by 2025, according to Bloomberg Intelligence. French luxury houses have long brought India’s craft to France’s ateliers. This time they came to Mumbai. Image: Dior PreFall PO F23 039 via Spotlight Launchmetrics
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Metaverse Fashion Week: 9 Events you may have missed

Tommy Hilfiger's shoppable space in Decentraland's MVFW. Image: Tommy Hilfiger Now in its second edition, the highly anticipated Metaverse Fashion Week (MVFW) took place last week, spanning over March 28 to 31, and, for the first time, spreading across three metaverses, including Decentraland, Over and Spatial. For this year, the theme was ‘Future Heritage’, which saw the event explore the relationship between tradition and innovation. Over 60 brands, artists and designers took part, with a broad variety of luxury, premium and high street participants at the ready. There was also a particular emphasis on both digital-physical crossovers and cross-metaverse initiatives, as the occasion attempted to expand its horizons and virtually translate the multi-venue experience of fashion month. Organisers said they further wanted to provide better brand support this year, implementing a variety of awards ceremonies, competitions and educational initiatives to back both emerging and established brands. While the event was often littered with bugs and glitches, there were some occasions that did manage to stand out among others, both for their innovative take on metaverse events and their ability to build on the concept of digital fashion engagement. Boson Protocol: New toolkit helps brands launch digital fashion products Web3 tech company Boson Protocol took the opportunity to introduce a new toolkit during MVFW, which it said would allow brands and retailers to commercialise physical assets within Decentraland’s metaverse. The Metaverse Commerce Toolkit provides businesses with a setup process that can be plugged into any of the platform’s scenes, and can also be accessed via the core Decentraland Editor tool. With the kit, Boson hopes to grow access to non-fungible token (NFT) commercialisation, with the likes of DressX, Fang Gang and Blvck Paris having already implemented the feature for their own MVFW shows. In a release, Justin Banon, co-founder and Boson, said: “Boson supports creators and vendors across Web3 by being the trust-minimising solution for digital commerce. Our Decentraland Metaverse Commerce Toolkit is the latest facilitator towards that goal and is designed to be used by brands and consumers while empowering Decentraland land owners to sell physical products in their own scene. Boson acts as the ‘trust machine’ where buyers and sellers meet, and our toolkit democratises access to decentralised commerce experiences live in Decentraland. We’re delighted to unveil it to mark yet another MVFW.” Coach: The Tabby Bag becomes gamified Zero10 and Coach launch digital Tabby Bag during MVFW. Image: Zero10 Luxury brand Coach partnered with Zero10 for its own metaverse activation, using the tech company’s augmented reality (AR) technology to create the Tabby Bag in digital form. As part of the virtual bag’s launch, participants could take on the quest ‘Collect the Tabby’ at Coach’s Decentraland pop-up. Once completed, players could scan a QR code that took them to the Zero10 app in order to experience wearable AR clothing. The initiative hoped to provide users with an element of exclusivity to their experience, while also driving engagement for both companies. The bag drop is the first step of Coach and Zero10’s ongoing partnership, with the duo set to continue collaborating on various AR experiences. For one, a virtual try-on offer will be brought to Coach’s New York store on May 4, where shoppers will be able to “try-on” digital versions of the Tabby Bag via Zero10’s smart mirror. It will mark the first time the tech firm presents its AR storefront solution, allowing passers-by to interact with the product outside the store. DKNY: Four-floor plaza launches in Decentraland DKNY - DKNY.3 - opens digital plaza during MVFW. Image: DKNY While DKNY was an avid participant in MVFW’s 2022 edition, this year the brand heightened its efforts further with the opening of DKNY.3, a virtual experience themed around the brand’s spring 2023 campaign. The activation involved the opening of a four-floor building in Decentraland, which housed a DKNY boutique, a New York-style pizzeria, an art gallery and a rooftop lounge overlooking a New York-inspired skyline. Among the brand’s offerings were four ‘Proof of Attendance Protocols’ (POAPs), including two wearable NFTS, each of which were available to anyone who visited the space. All entrants also received a virtual bucket hat from the spring 2023 collection. As part of the experience, it was possible for attendees to collect a virtual pizza box, poster and t-shirt featuring the new Web3 DKNY soho wall art as they entered each floor. The space was also home to the MVFW closing night party. Tommy Hilfiger: Multi-metaverse branding experience Tommy Hilfiger and Emperia launch multi-metaverse hub for MVFW. Image: Tommy Hilfiger Another metaverse regular in attendance was Tommy Hilfiger, a brand that has become accustomed to hosting digital events, having previously hosted virtual iterations of its own physical fashion shows. For this MVFW edition, the brand presented a new, multi-metaverse hub, powered by Emperia, which launched through Decentraland, Roblox, Spatial, DressX and Ready Player Me. Among the space’s activations were that of DressX digital fashion, a Web3 artist collaboration with Vinnie Hagar, AR features, a photo booth, games and a competition to create artificial intelligence (AI) fashion. The hub itself took on the form of the brand’s ‘TH’ monogram, which it recently introduced as part of its autumn 2022 campaign. Through all of the space’s features, the brand was hoping to create a unified digital story which allowed for seamless movement between its own website and various metaverses, providing an end-to-end shopping journey for users. With the Emperia partnership, Tommy Hilfiger could adopt the tech firm’s method of interoperability, bringing together the metaverse, e-commerce, entertainment and performance. Much of the experience was also dedicated to enhancing the brand’s digital product offering, for which it launched four exclusive items that were available to purchase across platforms, as well as in a physical format. Boss: AI is brought to the showrooms Boss Showroom during Metaverse Fashion Week. Image: Boss Boss took its first steps into the metaverse with the launch of a virtual showroom, which came as an extension of its spring/summer 2023 fashion show in Miami held in the week prior. Notably, Boss incorporated AI technology in order to create the activation, translating the show’s creative concept into the digital sphere. The space itself brought together gamification and a digital shopping experience, allowing users to explore the brand’s products in an interactive space. Among the showroom’s offerings was digital iterations of Boss pieces, including a blue suit seen on the Miami runway, each of which were shoppable and could be worn on the multi-game avatar platform Ready Player Me. In order to win these pieces, players could collect objects within the space, and were awarded an item on completion of the quest. While the space was launched during MVFW, visitors are still able to access the showroom following the event. #Capital: Fashion goes to the metaverse opera #Capital launches fashion opera for MVFW in House of Synergos. Image: #Capital MVFW’s opening event was the new fashion-opera, #Capital, created by Scottish composer Alastair White. Set within Metaverse Labs’ platform Dragon City, the show was performed in a bespoke opera house, ‘House of Synergos’, designed by experiential retail architects, Sybarite. During the show, digital fashion pieces by Chenpeng were featured, each curated by the fashion week’s ambassador Gemma Williams. The opera was supported by Tong, which was responsible for hosting a series of events within the venue, including a showcase of Victor Wong’s digital fashion. Formed under White and Williams’ collective UU Studios, #Capital explores dematerialisation and symbolism, looking into Web3, avatars, virtual reality and exchangeable tokens. It drew references from White’s PhD, in which he reimagined the relationship between garment and music, translating his viewpoints into the digital realm. For Chenpeng, this was also not the first time stepping into virtual space. The designer previously participated in the opening of the 2022 Winter Olympics in Beijing, when they first ventured into digital fashion, and later released a collection of digital designs during Shanghai Fashion Week. Over: Balmain and Pinko participate in co-host platform In keeping with the multi-platform concept adopted by MVFW this season, AR metaverse platform Over took part as a co-host of the event, offering up its own schedule of brands and projects. Among its participants were Balmain, Pinko, XR Couture, Ecoolska, Vogue Singapore and Ilona Song Fashion House. The event, which was facilitated by the Municipality of Milan, consisted of a hybrid fashion show, where digital avatars sported looks by emerging and established brands. Alongside this, attendees could also utilise Over’s AR app where they could try-on designs in a cross-over experience. Other aspects of the event included a special panel, with speakers from PwC Italy, the founder of phygital fashion house Ilona Song and Pinko’s digital transformation director Marco Ruffa. Balmain’s NFT collaboration with Space Runners, ‘Unicorn’, was also on display during the event. As part of its efforts to encourage participation, Over unveiled the winners of its cross-metaverse creator contest, where fashion designers could compete to create digital wearables for Over and Decentraland. The top five creators shared a prize pool in the form of an OVR token worth 10,000 dollars, while their works were on display at an event in Over. In a release, Davide Cuttini, CEO and co-founder of Over, said: “Fashion was among the first industries to recognise the incredible potential of the metaverse and Web3. This is because of the many avenues that these domains open up for fashion, from design to retail. Over extends this horizon further by uniquely merging the virtual and physical worlds using augmented reality. Together, these present a massive opportunity for brands, designers and retailers to reach consumers, anytime and anywhere.” Mango: High street fashion takes a digital form Mango hosts runway for MVFW. Image: Mango European retailer Mango took to MVFW this year as part of its efforts to incorporate digitalisation throughout the company. For this edition, the brand hosted its own area in the Fashion District of Decentraland, designed by members of its Virtual Assets technology team. The group, created last year, is made up of specially-trained engineers who have been tasked with developing digital content and projects for the company in order to immerse it in the virtual world. Spread over two floors, Mango’s space includes a company store and a runway area, complete with seats for attendees. At the location, participants could purchase five digital wearables for formal events, such as a blouse and a pair of trousers. To present the capsule collection, the retailer hosted a celebratory event earlier in the week, while later it also held another event that took place in memory of the late Luis ‘Lajos’ Arregui Henk, the crypto artist who made Mango’s first NFT and wearables. Clarks: Arcade and amusement park expand Clarks’ presence Clarks Arcade for MVFW. Image: Clarks Footwear brand Clarks is rapidly becoming a dependable metaverse participant and has expanded its presence for MVFW with the opening of an immersive entertainment hub, Clarks Arcade. The experience housed both a carnival and rooftop nightclub, and allowed users to take part in Clarks-themed arcade games, dance battles and competitions to win wearables. At the centre of the Arcade was the ‘Helter-Skel’Tor’, an amusement park based on the Somerset-based Brean Theme Park that is synonymous with Clarks’ Glastonbury home. Within the space, users could enter two gaming zones that paid homage to the brand’s products and story.
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Authentic Brands Group to acquire Quiksilver and Billabong owner

Photo Credits: Image with clothing and boards from Boardriders brands such as Quiksilver and Roxy. ABG, photo courtesy. Continuing on its path of acquisitions, Authentic Brands Group has now announced that it has entered into a period of exclusivity and made a binding offer to purchase sports and lifestyle group Boardriders. Through the takeover, for which funds are being managed by Oaktree Capital Management, Authentic would be adding the company’s extensive portfolio of board sports brands to its line up, including the likes of Quiksilver, Billabong, Roxy, DC Shoes, RVCA, Element, VonZipper and Honolua. The move will also cover Australia-based lifestyle retailer Surf Dive ‘n Ski, which operates more than 80 locations and an e-commerce platform. In a release, founder, chairman and CEO of Authentic, Jamie Salter, said: “As an early believer in the global and commercial appeal of action sports, this brings me back to the roots of my early career. “Along with the great brands and impressive global reach that will come with this acquisition, we see Boardriders’ potential as a thriving online marketplace under Authentic’s ownership. “With Boardriders’ proven retail playbook, we also see tremendous opportunities to accelerate the expansion of its shop-in-shops, branded retail stores, wholesale and e-commerce worldwide.” To finalise in Q3 Since being established over 50 years ago, Boardriders has grown into a global business, operating a multichannel distribution network of 500 plus owned retail stores and 7,000 wholesale accounts and e-commerce across 35 countries. According to Authentic, the portfolio generates 2.9 billion dollars in retail sales annually. Speaking on the acquisition, Boardriders CEO Arne Arens, said: “We are proud of our deep connection to the global action sports community, industry-leading brands and world-class teams. “Under Authentic’s ownership, Boardriders will be uniquely positioned to expand the reach of our iconic brands to millions of consumers, capture market share in our core categories and grow white spaces, including premium athleisure, training and lifestyle.” The acquisition is subject to the consultation of Boardriders representatives, and if approved, is expected to finalise in Q3 of 2023.
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H&M posts Q1 profit, sales increase by 12 percent

Image: H&M flagship store on London's Regent Street In the first quarter the H&M group’s net sales in SEK increased by 12 percent to 54,872 million Swedish krona. In local currencies the increase was 3 percent. Excluding Russia, Belarus and Ukraine, the company said, the increase was 16 percent in SEK and 7 percent in local currencies. Operating profit amounted to 725 million Swedish krona compared to 458 million Swedish krona, corresponding to an operating margin of 1.3 percent, boosted by consolidating the earnings of its Sellpy second-hand platform. “The H&M group continues to stand strong with a robust financial position, stable cash flow and a well-balanced inventory. The start of the year shows that we have taken further steps towards the goal of achieving an operating margin of 10 percent already next year,” said Helena Helmersson, CEO of H&M in a statement. H&M’s consolidates second-hand platform Sellpy into the group Sellpy, a European second-hand platform, the company added, is being consolidated into the H&M group from the first quarter. “Ten years ago we began investing in Sellpy, which in a short time has become one of Europe’s largest second-hand platforms. Now we are consolidating the company into the group, which visualises its value and generates a remeasurement effect of around 1 billion Swedish krona in the quarter. We have more than 25 other promising companies in our portfolio such as Renewcell, TreeToTextile and Smartex, to name just a few,” added Helmersson. Sales for portfolio brands in the first quarter increased by 19 percent in SEK and by 11 percent in local currencies. Stock-in-trade decreased by 16 percent currency-adjusted compared with the previous year. Gross margin for the quarter was 47.2 percent compared to 49.3 percent in the same quarter last year. Result after tax was 540 million Swedish krona, corresponding to 0.33 Swedish krona per share. H&M expects March sales to increase by 4 percent For the period from March 1 to March 31, 2023 sales in local currencies are expected to increase by 4 percent compared with the same period last year. The company said that the start of the spring season has been delayed in many important markets as a result of cold weather. The spring collections have been well received where the weather has warmed up. Commenting on the outlook, Helmersson said: “The start of the year shows that we have taken further steps towards the goal of achieving an operating margin of 10 percent already next year.” At the annual general meeting to be held on May 4, 2023, the board’s proposed ordinary dividend of 6.50 Swedish krona per share, to be paid in two instalments and the authorisation allowing it to buy back the group’s own B shares in the period up to the 2024 annual general meeting for a maximum of 3 billion Swedish krona, will be discussed.
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Barbour and Palm Angels to launch reimagined Bedale Wax Jacket

Image: Barbour's reimagined Bedale wax jacket. Credit: Barbour. Heritage brand Barbour teamed up with fashion label Palm Angels to create a new version of its iconic Bedale wax jacket. The equestrian inspired, lightweight item from 1980 will come in a remodelled design, leaning onto the idea of “high visibility vests and coats often worn in North America when undertaking country pursuits”, as described in the official release. The jacket will come in three bright colours - hot pink, scarlet ibis and vibrant yellow, with Palm Angels’ logo screen printed on the backside. The collaboration reflects the work of two rather contrasting brands, merging tradition and craftsmanship with bold and distinctive features. It combines a broad exploration of freedom and individuality while keeping a “British country twist”. On March 31, the collection will launch on both brands’ web shops as well as on Farfetch. In London, the items will be available in Barbour’s stores in Covent Garden and Carnaby Street and selected stockists, such as Flannels and Selfridges. On top of that, the line can be found in the LF Mall in Korea and on Barbour’s Tmall platform in China.
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Burberry invests in supply chain and acquires Italian outerwear manufacturer

Image: Burberry AW23 via Spotlight Launchmetrics Burberry is aiming to strengthen its supply chain with the acquisition of an Italian outerwear manufacturer. The British luxury brand acquired the technical outerwear facility from Pattern SpA, a longtime supplier whose business activities include engineering and production of luxury garments. Burberry acquired the company for 21 million euros in order to guarantee production capacity, as well as build technical outerwear capability, reported WWD. Burberry currently manufactures its iconic waterproof gabardine trench coats in Castleford and Keighley, in Yorkshire, England. Embedding sustainability into Burberry's supply chain Burberry said it worked with Pattern for two decades to produce luxury ready-to-wear including quilts and downs, at the company's product development site in Turin, Italy. Burberry said the acquisition would further embed sustainability into its value chain as well as complement its production facilities at home. Approximately 70 of Pattern’s employees in Turin will join Burberry on completion of the acquisition, expected later this year. Pattern will continue to operate the parts of the business not included in the transaction. Jonathan Akeroyd, CEO, commented: “This strategic investment is an important next step in bringing our outerwear category to full potential. It will enhance our capabilities, building on our strong foundations in the UK, and provide greater control over the quality, delivery and sustainability of our products. It’s an exciting development and I am delighted to welcome our new colleagues on board.” In 2018 Burberry acquired a leather goods manufacturer in Florence, Italy, which has since become a strategic hub for its leather products, covering all areas from prototypes to the finished product.
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LVMH Prize 2023: Nine finalists announced

Image: LVMH, Facebook The finalists for the annual LVMH Prize have been announced by the luxury conglomerate. Twenty-two semi-finalists were initially selected from among 2,400 candidates, before that number was further narrowed down to just the nine below: Aaron Esh (UK, menswear); Bettter (Ukraine, womenswear); Burc Akyol (France, womenswear, menswear, and genderless collections); Diotima (Jamaica, womenswear); Luar (US, womenswear, menswear, and genderless collections); Magliano (Italy, menswear); Paolina Russo (France, womenswear); Quira (Italy, womenswear); and Setchu (Japan, genderless collections). On June 7, the shortlisted designers will present their designs to a jury at the Louis Vuitton Foundation, and a winner will be chosen for the LVMH Prize and the Karl Lagerfeld Prize. Cash prize and mentorship up for grabs The winner of the LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers will receive a 300,000 euro endowment and a tailored mentorship by various teams at LVMH, while the recipient of the Karl Lagerfeld Prize will be awarded a 150,000 euro allocation and a one-year mentorship by LVMH teams. Additionally, in collaboration with fashion schools, the event will recognise three newly graduated students who will receive a 10,000 euro endowment with their school, and will join the design studio of one of LVMH’s luxury houses for one year. Members of the jury this year include Jonathan Anderson, Maria Grazia Chiuri, Nicolas Ghesquière, Marc Jacobs, Kim Jones, Nigo, Stella McCartney, Silvia Venturini Fendi, Jean-Paul Claverie, Sidney Toledano, and Delphine Arnault. Arnault said in a statement: “The semi-final of the tenth edition of the Prize has highlighted a great maturity in the approach and work of the designers. Cultural diversity, celebration of traditional crafts and creative audacity define this selection. Naturally, the finalists are fully engaged in dealing with environmental issues and play with the boundaries between menswear and womenswear. “Their expertise, their creativity, their uniqueness and their commitment have truly impressed me. I would like to thank all the experts for their enthusiasm, their involvement and the attention they dedicated to discovering and appraising the work of the designers who took part in the semi-final. The jury members and I look forward to seeing the nine shortlisted designers at the final at the Louis Vuitton Foundation.”
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Balmain and Beyoncé debut Renaissance haute couture collaboration

Image: Balmain Renaissance Couture Balmain has launched an haute couture collaboration with Beyoncé. The French luxury house said it is the first collaboration with and exclusively for a Balmain muse. Creative director Olivier Rousteing found inspiration in the singer’s Renaissance album, together creating 16 designs, one for each track. It is the first haute couture collection where a Black woman had full creative license. Mr Olivier Rousteing is also the first Black man to lead all collections at a luxury house. With looks unveiled in the April issue of French Vogue, Mr Rousteing said Renaissance is more than an album, “it’s freedom, strength, love and a battle for a better future,” as well as sharing the arts of music and fashion together. With initial sketches and a concept, Mr Rousteing approached Beyoncé’s head stylist, Marni Senofonte. It took five months for the team to edit, design and craft the collection, with the atelier moving to Los Angeles in January to finish the final fittings. In a statement Balmain said the collection plays with Balmain house signatures, classic Parisian savoir-faire and a wide range of unexpected materials and techniques to translate Renaissance’s joy and genius into a couture collection that makes clear that something powerful can result when music and fashion are combined into one unified whole. One of the looks, a 'fireworks' dress, in black velvet embroidered with pink feathers, is a testament to craftsmanship. Mr Rousteing said the artisans at Maison Fevrier, the last feather atelier in the world, were ‘pushed hard’ to do something that they had never done before, despite their history of creating the most astounding plumage for Paris’ spectacles de cabaret and haute couture collections.
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Goi Goi founders reacquire retailer from JD Sports

Image: Daniel Gual/URW The founders of streetwear brand Goi Goi are the latest to retake their business from JD Sports Fashion after the conglomerate put a percentage of its portfolio up for sale. Goi Goi was founded in 1987 by Anthony and Christopher Donnelly and was initially acquired by JD back in 2013 when it fell into administration. According to Drapers, the Donnellys have now bought the brand back “for a nominal sum”. Speaking to the media outlet, Anthony said: “It’s [been] 17 years since we had our brand back independently. We pity those less fortunate than us who lost their brands [as they] couldn’t buy their brands back.” It comes as JD Sports continues to reevaluate its business within the independent menswear sector, with it recently announcing the intention to refocus itself on its premium sportswear division. As part of this move, the company recently offloaded its stakes in 15 brands to rival Frasers Group, including Tessuti, Missy Empire and Cricket. Rascal Clothing, which was part of the initial deal, pulled out and instead was similarly snapped up by the brand’s founder Bill Wingrove. Since then, JD has embarked on an ambitious retail expansion strategy, announcing plans to open between 250 to 350 stores a year over the next five years.
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