LuisaViaRoma and British Vogue host ‘Runway Icons’ catwalk show

Credits: Ray-Ban Reverse Garden. Image: Ray-Ban Italian luxury marketplace LuisaViaRoma teamed up with British Vogue and the media outlet’s outgoing editor-in-chief Edward Enninful for the open-air catwalk show, ‘Runway Icons’. Held in Florence’s Piazzale Michelangelo, the event drew in a star-studded cast and celebrity audience, with the likes of Leonardo DiCaprio, Imaan Hammam, Eva Herzigova, Tobey Maguire and Irina Shayk among those to have descended on the occasion. The show itself looked to trace the evolution of global fashion and style through the decades, featuring looks from over 50 international emerging and established designers, each curated by Enninful. Credits: Looks from the 'Runway Icons' catwalk show by LuisaViaRoma and British Vogue. Image: Ray-Ban Over 70 models showcased the variety of looks, including the likes of Stella Maxwell, Winnie Harlow and Ashley Graham, while more than 1,500 guests from the fashion and creative industries were in attendance. Following the event, sunglasses specialist Ray-Ban was the host of an after-party and dinner, which were held in the Reverse Garden and celebrated the brand’s latest product, Ray-Ban Reverse. Credits: Ray-Ban after-party for 'Runway Icons' show. Image: Ray-Ban
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Saint Laurent, Versace and Jimmy Choo heading to Montreal

Image: Carbonleo; A rendering of the Royalmount development in Montreal, Canada Royalmount, the 7 billion US dollar retail and leisure development creating a new midtown for Montreal in Canada, has confirmed that Saint Laurent, Versace and Jimmy Choo will be opening new stores. The development, being spearheaded by Quebec-based real estate development and management company Carbonleo, will have 170 stores and 60 restaurants, with 50 percent of the brands and retail concepts set to be completely new to the Quebec market. The first stores are set to open from summer 2024. Other brands that have signed up include Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Tiffany, David Yurman, Tag Heuer and Michael Kors. Andrew Lutfy, chief executive of Carbonleo, said in a statement: “We are delighted to welcome these world-class and category-leading brands to Royalmount, which will become the number one destination in Eastern Canada for retail, dining and entertainment. “Years of thought and planning have gone into bringing the right brands to Montreal. These arrivals represent an exciting future for Royalmount and will help bring our shared vision and values to life. We look forward to welcoming these brands and our valued guests and visitors next year.” Royalmount to give Montreal a luxury fashion boost Versace, Jimmy Choo and Tag Heuer will open their first stand-alone stores in Montreal, with Royalmount adding that Saint Laurent will be taking “a major presence”. While David Yurman’s flagship will be its largest store in Canada and its first in Quebec. Michael Kors will also be expanding its presence in the city with a new dedicated store set to carry the Michael Kors Collection line. Royalmount will be a mixed-use development in the heart of Montreal, featuring retail, offices, restaurants and entertainment, all surrounding a central park. The first phase will consist of an 824,000-square-foot, two-level retail and lifestyle complex. It will also be the first 100 percent carbon-neutral mixed-use development in the Americas and the largest LEED Gold retail project in Canada.
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London Fashion Week initiates ‘transformation phase’ with experimental format

Qasimi SS24 at London Fashion Week June 2023. Image: BFC A quick glance at the schedule for the latest London Fashion Week would leave many with questions. The June 2023 men’s edition was highly limited compared to seasons prior, yet came in a format that still seemed more hybrid than ever. Over the course of the weekend, from June 9 to 12, London played host to a series of physical catwalks, digital presentations and a selection of talks and panels, despite just six designers taking part. While the city’s large-scale fashion weeks are typically scheduled in February and September, the four-day event is now acting as more of an experiment for the future, combining technology and culture while also continuing to bolster emerging British names. It comes as the British Fashion Council (BFC) repositions itself towards local talent in a bid to amplify the UK’s own industry, a move that was outlined last week prior to the event in a letter to BFC members from chairman David Pemsel. In the letter, Pemsel, who was appointed last October, said he wanted to aid UK-based brands in navigating the challenging environment they currently face, much of which has been brought on by Brexit regulations, the aftermath of the pandemic and other socioeconomic factors. His main focus points centred around commercial and cultural innovation, evolving the UK’s fashion narrative and fuelling responsible growth through accessible opportunities for next generation talent. Pemsel’s emphasis on backing new designers was already seen in the June edition with the inclusion of three universities, including University of Westminster, Ravensbourne University London and University of East London, each of which presented their own graduate shows. Next to this was two educational panels, one centred around the future of menswear, the other on The Asian Man, dubbed ‘An exploration into the forgotten style tribe’. Qasimi SS24 at London Fashion Week June 2023. Image: BFC Qasimi SS24 at London Fashion Week. Image: BFC Genderless fashion prevails In terms of the designer roster, the reduced schedule was purposefully dedicated to smaller brands and a broader audience, with less exclusive in-person events available in a bid to further democratise the platform. In keeping with its last rebrand in 2020, the showcase continued a gender neutral approach to menswear with the select participants opting to exhibit unisex and androgynous styles. The first to take to the event was Hoor Al Qasimi, creative director of Qasimi, whose men’s and women’s collection drew inspiration from Sudanese artist Kamala Ibrahim Ishaq, as reflected in the use of earth tones, traditional silk printing and intricate craftsmanship. Qasimi also used her opportunity to showcase the work of two designers from her ‘Qasimi Rising’ fashion incubator, Omer Asim and Salim Azzam. The same day also saw Los Angeles-based menswear brand Justin Cassin return to the schedule after having previously shown his AW23 collection in London. For AW24, however, the designer opted for an evening show at Soho’s The Vinyl Factory, where he once again presented his own take on British tailoring through structured silhouettes and experimental techniques. In contrast to Cassin’s clean cut line, Sagaboi brought an alternative tongue-in-cheek take on genderless fashion. Combining Trinidadian heritage with streetwear, the label, founded by Geoff Cooper, drew on its link to ‘saga boy’, a Caribbean subculture that formed in the 30s as a rebellion to overtly masculine ideals. Printed tees with phrases emblazoned on them, such as ‘Lawd ‘ave Mercy’, were paired with retro-inspired pants, while other references to fashion eras of the past were seen in co-ord suits and crochet knitwear. Sagaboi SS24 at London Fashion Week. Image: BFC The designer line up was rounded out by Woolmark International Prize winner and NewGen recipient Saul Nash, who stepped out onto the beach for his SS24 line. The ‘Intersection’ collection saw the designer pay tribute to the heritage of his parents, combining Guyanese, English and Mauritian roots to form a laid back curation of looks. Speedos were paired with matching knits and skin-tight tops contrasted embroidered sailor jackets, all in bold contrasting hues. Looking ahead With this short edition wrapped up, the BFC is now looking to the seasons ahead – the new strategy in mind. While the large-scale womenswear editions are likely to remain an integral part of the organisation’s operations, and therefore stay largely unchanged, CEO Caroline Rush told WWD in an interview prior to the June edition that the council was considering significant changes to its menswear schedule in light of the shifting needs of designers. Rush labelled this past weekend’s fashion week a “transition period”, noting that the next would look very different. She added that such changes could see the introduction of a new platform designed around the incorporation of menswear businesses that typically stray from the fashion show set up, such as Savile Row designers, many of which tend to favour events like Pitti Uomo over LFW. While not yet confirmed, measures could be drastic enough that LFW’s January edition, initially focused on menswear, never returns. Such efforts to bolster the industry were again backed up by Pemsel in his letter, where he stated: “We have unwavering belief in the UK fashion industry, its creative heart beat and London as a global fashion capital. Our businesses are innovators, challengers and provocateurs and our ambitions are too great to be constrained by the small team at the BFC. We as an industry showed our strength as a community through the pandemic, and harnessing that strength in community to collectively do what we all can to contribute to retaining and strengthening our pre-eminent position as creators, innovators and industry trailblazers.” Saul Nash SS24 at London Fashion Week June 2023. Image: Launchmetrics Spotlight Saul Nash SS24 at London Fashion Week June 2023. Image: Launchmetrics Spotlight
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THG Ingenuity partners with PwC to bolster e-commerce capabilities

Credits: Image: THG THG Ingenuity, the technology services division of British fashion and beauty retail group THG, has announced a partnership with international professional services firm PwC to bolster digital commerce. As part of the deal, “PwC will lead on the business strategy, research, and design of the brand web stores, and Ingenuity will provide the technology and operations to create a frictionless ecommerce experience”. Ingenuity was set up by THG to offer technology and operations capabilities to DTC and consumer brands. It currently powers the e-commerce growth of global brands including Coca-Cola, Kraft Heinz, Mondelēz, Homebase, and others. Ingenuity CEO Vivek Ganotra said in a statement: “We are delighted to form a strategic alliance with PwC that helps brands create engaging and relevant commerce experiences. “By bringing together PwC’s strategic and creative experience with Ingenuity’s proven ecommerce platform capabilities, our alliance will give in- house teams a launchpad to transform their digital operations whilst ensuring that the customer experience and customer-brand relationship remains at the heart of the purchase.” Ingenuity parent THG last month announced it had terminated acquisition discussions with Apollo Global Management, stating that the firm had undervalued the group. THG was approached by Apollo in April with a non-binding offer to acquire its entire issued share capital. However, THG ultimately turned the offer down, arguing there was “no longer any merit in continuing to engage with Apollo” due to “inadequate valuations”.
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Graduate Fashion Week kicks off in London, this is the 2023 schedule

Nottingham Trent University at GFW22. Courtesy of Nottingham Trent University, Designer: Tanya Evans Lawes The 2023 edition of UK graduate showcase at the bachelor level Graduate Fashion Week, kicks off today. 27 GFW member universities will take part in the four day event which runs until June 15. The event, organised by non-profit organisation the Graduate Fashion Foundation is taking place at the Truman Brewery in East London. GFW23 will feature 17 graduate runway shows as well as this year’s GFW exhibition with work from the 27 UK member universities, industry talks, fashion film screenings and a daily awards show. This afternoon, Northumbria University was the first school to present its student graduation runway show, this way officially kicking off Graduate Fashion Week 2023. View the full schedule of GFW23 (UK) below. Monday, June 12 * 9:30 AM - 7:30 PM – GFW Exhibition * 10:00 AM - 11:00 AM – Judging Talk in the GFW Live! Talk Space * 2:00 PM - 3:00 PM – Talk - How to Be a Fashion Activist * 2:00 PM - 5:00 PM – Northumbria University Presentation * 3:15 PM - 4:15 PM – Talk - How to Build a Brand With Sustainability at its Core * 5:30 PM - 7:00 PM – Daily Awards Show and drinks * 6:00 PM - 8:00 PM – Fashion Reimagined Film Screening and Q&A Tuesday June 13 * 10:00 AM - 7:30 PM – GFW Exhibition * 10:00 AM - 11:00 AM – Judging Talk in the GFW Live! Talk Space * 10:30 AM - 11:05 AM – Joint Catwalk Show - University Of Derby & University Of Hertfordshire * 11:15 AM - 12:15 PM – GFW Live! Talk - Fashion Illustration and Collage Workshop with Illustrator Elyse Blackshaw * 12:45 PM - 1:20 PM – Joint Catwalk Show - Bath Spa University & Arts University Bournemouth * 1:30 PM - 2:30 PM – Talk - Why Good Culture is Good Business: A Deep Dive into PR and Purpose * 2:45 PM - 3:30 PM – Talk - Free Range: Framing Realities and Inspiring Young Creatives with photographer Serena Brown * 3:00 PM - 3:35 PM – Nottingham Trent University Catwalk Show * 3:30 PM - 4:30 PM – Talk - Zara Talent: Accelerating the Future * 5:30 PM - 6:05 PM – Sheffield Hallam University Catwalk Show * 5:30 PM - 7:00 PM – Daily Awards Show and drinks * 7:45 PM - 8:20 PM – Size? Homegrown Catwalk Show & Party Wednesday June 14 * 9:30 AM - 7:30 PM - GFW Exhibition * 10:00 AM - 11:00 AM – Judging Talk in the GFW Live! Talk Space * 10:30 AM - 11:05 AM – Winchester School Of Art Catwalk Show * 12:30 PM - 1:05 PM – Joint Catwalk Show - Birmingham City University & Glasgow School Of Art * 1:15 PM - 2:15 PM – Talk - Big Dress Energy: An introduction to Fashion Psychology * 2:30 PM - 3:05 PM – Joint Catwalk Show - University Of Central Lancashire & Norwich University Of The Arts * 3:15 PM - 4:15 PM – Talk - How to get a Job in Fashion * 4:30 PM - 5:05 PM – De Montfort University Catwalk Show * 5:30 PM - 7:00 PM – Daily Awards Show and drinks * 6:30 PM - 7:05 PM – Edinburgh College Of Art Catwalk Show * 7:45 PM - 8:20 PM – Untagged Catwalk Show & Party Thursday June 15 * 9:30 AM - 6:30 PM - GFW Exhibition * 10:30 AM - 11:05 AM – GFW Collective Catwalk Show * 10:45 AM - 11:45 AM – Talk - The Fundamentals of Starting a Brand * 11:45 AM - 12:20 PM – GFW Collective (Schools Only) Catwalk Show * 12:00 PM - 1:00 PM – Talk - How to Get a Job in Digital Fashion * 1:30 PM - 2:30 PM – Talk - How Digital Printing Can Transform Fashion * 2:00 PM - 2:35 PM – Manchester Fashion Institute at Manchester Metropolitan University Catwalk Show * 3:00 PM - 3:00 PM – Talk - Everything you Need to Know About Circularity in Fashion * 4:00 PM - 4:35 PM – Liverpool John Moores University Catwalk Shows * 4:30 PM - 5:30 PM – Talk - How to Be a Fashion Multi-Hyphenate * 6:00 PM - 6:35 PM – University For The Creative Arts Catwalk Show * 8:00 PM - 8:35 PM – Best of GFW23 Catwalk Show
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Lisaa Mode 2023 students to present collections in Paris

Lisaa Mode Paris show 2022. Courtesy of Florence Julienne On June 13 2023, Lisaa Mode Paris, the fashion school of the Institute of Applied Arts (Institut Supérieur des Arts Appliqués), is organising two shows to celebrate the graduation class of 2023 in the bachelor of fashion design and styling programme. Does the younger generation hold the future of fashion in its hands? Undoubtedly, given the number of awards created to celebrate young talent, and the success of fashion school catwalks. This year, Lisaa Mode Paris is organising not one, but two shows at the Élysée Montmartre in Paris. The first show will take place at 6 PM for friends and family. The second will be for industry professionals and will take place at 8 PM. The school will showcase a selection of the twenty most emblematic collections of the Lisaa Mode graduate class of 2023, 40 percent of which are for men, even though artistic director Romain Boyer has been observing increasingly unisex silhouettes for several years. Nevertheless, out of 120 pieces, 59 are for women and 61 for men. The collections are accessorised and one hundred percent designed with CSR in mind, in terms of the choice of materials, prototyping, the sales system and marketing. Students are therefore required to possess global expertise and a 180-degree vision (it should be noted that there are more and more boys in the graduating classes). They can explore all market sectors, but must create a synergy between their creativity and commercially viable products./p> Each student is free to choose his or her own theme. In terms of emerging trends, Romain Boyer sees a return to tradition. "A lot of students are talking about their social, family and geographical origins, while at the same time being contemporary. But there is also a return to the great creativity of the 90s. Creation for creation's sake". Isn't freshness just what you'd expect from young fashion school graduates? This article was originally published on FashionUnited.FR. Translation and editing from French into English by Veerle Versteeg.
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Cordwainers Footwear Awards 2023 winners revealed

Image: The Worshipful Company of Cordwainers; Cordwainers Footwear Awards 2023 winners Footwear association The Worshipful Company of Cordwainers has announced the winners of this year’s Cordwainers Footwear Awards celebrating the best in young footwear talent. The event took place in London on June 7, featuring 15 student finalists from the London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London and De Montfort University, who competed to win the coveted Cordwainers Footwear Award Trophy. The First Prize was awarded to Jihwi Ahn from De Montfort University, who receives 3,000 pounds, while the award's Second Place, worth 2,000 pounds, went to Daniel Charkow from the London College of Fashion. Commenting on his win, Ahn said in a statement: “It’s really a privilege to experience this event and to be a winner. It really means a lot to me! I think it will really encourage me to push forward and work in this industry.” Image: The Worshipful Company of Cordwainers; Cordwainers Footwear Awards 2023 winner - Jihwi Ahn from De Montfort University The Worshipful Company of Cordwainers celebrate young footwear talent This year also included two new awards, a new Sneaker/Athleisure Award recognising innovations in sneaker design and the Sue Saunders Award for Excellence, a lifetime contribution award named after the inspiring footwear teacher and mentor. The Sneaker/Athleisure Award was won by Bobby Nangla from De Montfort University. He took home 1,500 pounds. The Sue Saunders Award for Excellence was made posthumously to Sue Saunders herself, in recognition of her “immense contribution to footwear education,” explained The Worshipful Company of Cordwainers. In the future, the award will be awarded by nomination to an individual. Other wins for the London College of Fashion included Annie Purdy receiving the Sustainable Development Award and a cash prize of 1,500 pounds while Georgia Dalloro was recognised with the First Commendation and Barney Wardlaw the Second Commendation, and both take home 500 pounds each. The 2023 judging panel included Joanne Jørgensen, footwear design director at Nike's London design studio, Katie Greenyer creative director at Pentland Brands, Joachim Sedelmeier head of design of shoes at Paul Smith, and international footwear designer Charlotte Olympia Dellal.
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BFC outlines new strategy to make fashion a ‘catalyst of change’

Image: BFC The British Fashion Council (BFC) has unveiled a new strategy that looks to position fashion in the region as a “catalyst of change” and amplify the industry through “responsible growth”. The plan was outlined in a letter to the council’s members and stakeholders from David Pemsel, the BFC’s newest chair who succeeded Stephanie Phair last October. In the letter, which was acquired by WWD, Pemsel said the strategy aimed to provide clarity to businesses on how to get involved and access the work the BFC is doing. The organisation’s main focus will be on core commercial and cultural areas of the fashion industry, including diversity, equity, inclusion and belonging, Web3 and its Institute of Positive Fashion. The Institute itself was created as a platform for businesses to increase their sustainability efforts through global collaborations, with Caroline Rush, CEO of the BFC, stating to WWD that the council was planning to roll out additional webinars and forums to help members further their business. Additionally, the organisation is hoping to create connections, insights and advisory opportunities to help prepare for regulation, as well as to support emerging talent. Pemsel added: “Success will be to see businesses grow responsibly year on year, to build their networks to support growth, and to have the insights and advice they need at the different stages of their development. “As part of this, the community will support us to support the next generation of talent through the BFC Foundation and early-stage business mentoring programmes.” LFW schedule to shift, January edition unlikely to return Via an interview on the new strategy with Rush, WWD revealed that the layout of London Fashion Week could also change. While the event, alongside the Fashion Awards, is a prime part of BFC’s model, Rush told the media outlet that the upcoming showcase, set to begin June 9, was “a transition period”, with the next edition to look very different. According to Rush, the BFC has been in discussions with menswear businesses about potentially creating a new platform, with sights set on incorporating businesses that typically stray from fashion shows, such as Savile Row designers. Rush also noted that the January edition of LFW, which was initially focused on menswear, was unlikely to return due to its awkward timing, resulting in designers often heading to Pitti Uomo instead. In regards to the similarly influential Fashion Awards, Rush said the ceremony will now focus more on British designers over global ones, which have often been at the centre of the event, with the BFC now looking to bolster its celebration of the British industry.
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Vince Holding Q1 sales hit by Rebecca Taylor wind-down, but losses narrow

Image: Vince, Facebook US fashion group Vince Holding Corp managed to narrow its losses in the first quarter despite its sales dropping year-on-year as the wind-down of its Rebecca Taylor hit its top line. The company announced last September it would be closing down its Rebecca Taylor business to focus its resources on its namesake Vince brand. Sales in the three months to April 29 dropped 18.2 percent to 64.1 million dollars as Rebecca Taylor sales plummeted 99.2 percent to 0.1 million dollars and Vince sales dropped 6.3 percent to 6 million dollars. The group said the wind-down of the Rebecca Taylor business is now “substantially completed”. Despite the drop in sales, the company narrowed its net loss in the first quarter to 0.4 million dollars from 7.2 million dollars the prior year. Chief executive officer Jack Schwefel told investors: “Our first quarter results were largely in line with our expectations supported by our efforts to streamline our organization to focus on our core strengths while maintaining a disciplined approach to expense management as we continued to navigate a challenging macro environment.” The trading update comes after US giant Authentic Brands Group last month completed its acquisition of the intellectual property of the Vince label from parent Vince Holding Corp, resulting in a new subsidiary, ABG Vince. Authentic paid 76.5 million dollars for 75 percent majority ownership of the new subsidiary, while Vince Holding retained 25 percent. Schwefel said Thursday: “With our strengthened balance sheet in place driven by our recent transaction with Authentic Brands Group, we believe we are better positioned to execute our strategic initiatives and prioritize our commitment to improved financial performance over time.” Looking ahead, Schwefel said the company maintains a “cautious outlook”, particularly in regards to its wholesale channel.
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StockX says it halted 30 million dollars worth of fake sneakers last year

Image: Maison Margiela Resale platform StockX has published a new report outlining data surrounding its latest verification advancements, review process and its impact on consumers. Entitled ‘Big Facts: The Verification Report’, the document’s most notable figures come in relation to the amount of products StockX had rejected in the past year, hinting at a shocking problem with counterfeits. According to the platform, it had rejected nearly 90 million dollars worth of products that did not meet verification criteria during its vetting process. The top reasons for these rejections came down to manufacturing defects, representing 27 percent of the items in question, and fake products, at 20 percent. The report further noted that over the last 12 months, authenticators for StockX had stopped nearly 30 million dollars worth of fake sneakers from trading on the platform. Historically, it was high-value products that were found to be most counterfeited, however high-demand, lower price point items were also privy to imitations. In a release discussing the report, StockX CEO Scott Cutler said: “I am proud of the global team we’ve built and our commitment to helping millions of customers secure the products they love at the right price. “Knowledge is power, and this report offers visibility into our verification process and our efforts to deliver a best-in-class experience to buyers and sellers around the world.” StockX added that it has expanded its use of machine learning which is helping provide additional data points for the company to leverage during its verification process.
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Asos believed to have received takeover offer, Frasers Group ups share

Image: Asos, Multiverse. Property of Asos Shares for struggling online retailer Asos were boosted 7 percent after speculation over a rumoured takeover bid ran rampant through the media. According to The Sunday Times, the company was approached with a 1.24 billion dollar takeover bid in December 2022 by Trendyol, a Turkish online competitor backed by Chinese e-commerce giant Alibaba. The media outlet said that the firm was believed to have worked with Morgan Stanley to form the offer and had also approached Asos’ largest shareholder, Bestseller owner Anders Povlsen, to see if he was also interested in partaking in the deal. Such a move has sparked speculation around a potential bidding war for Asos, and comes amid further reports that suppliers of the company had begun cutting back on providing goods after its credit insurance was believed to have been withdrawn. Suppliers cut back provisions The Times cited a number of anonymous suppliers who said they had stopped supplying the retailer as it struggled to maintain profits, stating that they had halted the process until the insurance came back. Asos noted in its own statement that, despite the tightening of its trade credit insurance, it had seen no impact on its trading. The retailer is among many that have struggled post-pandemic with widening losses and revenue drops largely due to falling consumer confidence and supply chain disruptions. Last month, it secured a 75 million dollar raise from three of its shareholders, including Povlsen’s Aktieselskabet Af, as it looks to return the business to sustainable profitability and achieve a flexible balance sheet. In an attempt to further its hold on Asos, Povlsen’s direct competitor Mike Ashley’s Frasers Group also upped its stake in the firm to nearly 9 percent, which takes the group one step closer to having the ability of blocking a takeover bid. The group has continued to increase its stake in Asos over the past year, suggesting that Ashley could be considering onboarding the retailer into its ever-expanding portfolio.
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Gabriela Hearst to exit Chloé

Image: Gabriella Hearst Gabriela Hearst is reportedly set to present her final collection for Chloé during the Spring/Summer 2024 season at Paris Fashion Week. The Uruguay-born, New York-based designer, is set to exit the French fashion house, according to WWD. While an official statement is yet to be released by both Hearst and Chloé's parent company, Richemont, it is expected that Hearst's departure will allow her to fully concentrate on her own eponymous label. This news coincides with Chloé's announcement of a partnership with Atelier Jolie, a circular fashion brand launched by Angelina Jolie. Hearst has designed a women's capsule collection for Atelier Jolie, incorporating the use of deadstock materials. The departure from Chloé aligns with the typical duration of designer contracts, which commonly span around three years. Hearst's exit, however, occurs at a time when her sustainability-focused approach has propelled Chloé to the forefront of sustainable luxury brands. During Hearst's tenure, Chloé achieved the distinction of being the first luxury house to receive B Corp certification. She also introduced the Social Performance & Leverage tool, an open-source platform enabling brands to evaluate supplier performance in areas such as gender equality and fair wages, as reported by Vogue. Chloé's commitment to embracing a circular business model was further demonstrated through the launch of Chloé Vertical, a resale program incorporating digital IDs. While Richemont does not disclose specific sales figures for Chloé, the brand experienced a significant 13 percent increase in revenue within the division during the fourth quarter compared to the previous year, according to the luxury conglomerate. The fashion industry's ever-evolving landscape of creative director appointments also includes other designers, such as Matthew Williams at Givenchy, whose three-year tenures are coming to an end this month.
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Sorel brand president Mark Nenow steps down

Image: Sorel, Facebook Columbia Sportswear Company has announced that Mark Nenow, president of the Sorel brand, has resigned in order to focus on his health. Nenow joined the company in 2007 to lead footwear. The company said in a statement that he recognized an opportunity to transform the Sorel brand, from primarily a men’s winter work boot to a fashion-forward, all season women’s led brand. “Mark led the brand to sales of 347 million dollars in net sales in 2022. His leadership has been invaluable to this company, and we wish him the very best,” said Tim Boyle, the company’s chairman, president and CEO. The company added that Nenow became president of Sorel in 2015 and focused his attention on growth through a relentless drive towards function-led style applied to boots, sandals, sneakers and more. Sorel has consistently seen growth year over year, establishing itself as the second largest of our family of brands. The company further said that Craig Zanon, senior vice president, emerging brands, will lead Sorel till a replacement is found.
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Spotted on the catwalk: WGSN and Coloro’s key colours for SS25

The colour trends for SS25 from Coloro x WGSN. Image: Coloro As part of their biannual webinar, WGSN and Coloro unveiled their five trend colours that can be expected to lead the way during the SS25 season. Each of the hues were selected for their ability to convey a sense of reassurance at a time of great uncertainty and global change, the trend authorities said, while also reflecting a “shift towards strategic imagination”. To encourage inspiration, FashionUnited has compiled some looks from recent runway collections in the colours selected by WGSN and Coloro. Future Dusk Coming out on top as Colour of the Year for 2025, ‘Future Dusk’ was presented as a “reliable blue” by head of colour at WGSN, Urangoo Samba, during the webinar, who said that the hue instilled “a sense of confidence and stability” while driving “the creation of new futures”. According to Samba, the decision to select such a tone was linked to the authority’s forecast that dark hues were to gain momentum during this period, as they tap into a time of transition. Future Dusk could already be seen in numerous iterations as part of recent designer collections, many of which could be linked to WGSN’s idea that the colour has a strong connection to the current fascination with the second space age. At Alberta Ferretti's ‘24 Resort, for example, the hue was used in combination with contrasting materials that formed a hooded dress with a panelled bodice, reminiscent of sci-fi attire. Meanwhile, at Saint Laurent’s SS23 show, the colour was present in a floor-sweeping leather coat resulting in a modernised take on the Matrix. Images (from left to right): Alberta Ferretti Resort 24, Dior FW23, Saint Laurent SS23. Credit: Spotlight Launchmetrics Images (from left to right): Dundas FW23, Keisukeyoshida FW23, M Rof FW23. Credit: Spotlight Launchmetrics Transcendent Pink Transcendent Pink is versatile and suitable for people of all genders and demographics, making it a “commercially reliable” choice, stated Caroline Guilbert, the creative content lead at Coloro. Unlike other pinks that have recently been popular – namely that of Barbie’s hot pink – this tone takes on a more subtle shade that comes across as earthy, therefore carrying a sense of stability, as suggested by Guilbert. For past seasons, many designers opted to use the fluid tone for eveningwear, seeing it incorporated into slinky dresses, heavy embellishments and flowing gowns. While a sheer dress with cowl neckline came weighted in crystal beading at Versace’s FW23, during the show of the typically bohemian Zimmerman, the tone was seen in a striking dress with ruffles traversing down the body. Other designers, however, used the opportunity to show this pink in a different light, incorporating it into outerwear attire, like ski coats and knitwear. A look in MaxMara’s collection saw the tone appear in a head-to-toe outfit, with chunky knits layered under a voluminous coat. Images (from left to right): Alberta Ferretti Resort 2024, Victoria Beckham Resort 2024, Versace Fall/Winter 2023. Credit: Spotlight Launchmetrics Images (from left to right): Versace Fall/Winter 2023, MaxMara Fall/Winter 2023, Zimmermann Fall/Winter 2023. Credit: Spotlight Launchmetrics Aquatic Awe This colour tone has a dual nature, embodying elements of both the natural world and the virtual realm. Aquatic Awe draws inspiration from marine life and its ecosystems, while also reflecting the growing trend of immersive virtual worlds. This unique combination bridges the gap between fantasy and reality, as noted by Samba, who labelled the tone among her personal favourites for 2025. Like its duality, designers that incorporated Aquatic Awe into their collections also presented differing outcomes, with the tone appearing on everything from streetwear to eveningwear to more experimental ready-to-wear. While Aitorgoikoetxea offered up the aqua-like hue in a netted cardigan, Speed took on an alternative of the suit, with a velvet skirt and blazer combo that saw the colour in an ombre print. Victoria Tomas, on the other hand, served an update to streetwear, using the tone in a metallic translucent material for a sheer co-ord. Images (from left to right): Lanvin FW23, Speed SS24, Victoria Beckham FW23. Credit: Spotlight Launchmetrics Images (left to right): Balmain FW23, Victoria Tomas FW23, Aitorgoikoetxea FW23. Credit: Spotlight Launchmetrics Sunset Coral This new take on coral looks to serve as a remedy for society's fixation on productivity and, despite its vibrant appearance, encouraging individuals to embrace moments of idleness and relaxation, Coloro’s Guilbert said. Additionally, the colour expert discussed the notion of "conscious hedonism" associated with Sunset Coral, as it aims to forge a meaningful connection between moments of indulgence and a greater sense of purpose. Like a breathtaking sunset, this shade embodies both joy and significance. While coral has been a consistent part of recent fashion seasons past, this fresh iteration of the hue provides a bolder take on the usually subdued pigment. This was also reflected in its runway appearances throughout 2023 seasons, where daring shapes and experimental silhouettes led the way. For its own FW23 collection, Act N.21 took on the shade in a fishtail gown whose neckline blossomed into an exaggerated fluffy cloud. Meanwhile, Palmer Harding played with silhouette as a whole, as seen in a dress that was gathered and tied in various locations forming an asymmetrical hem. Images: Gabriela Hearst FW23, Act N.21 FW23, Rojas SS23. Credit: Spotlight Launchmetrics Images: Yuzefi SS23, Christopher Kane FW23, Palmer Harding SS23. Credit: Spotlight Launchmetrics Ray Flower When speaking on Ray Flower, Coloro cited the work of multidisciplinary designer Jess Redgrave – who works with sunflowers to make natural dyes – as the source of inspiration for this vibrant yellow shade. Ray Flower was described by Samda as “inherently optimistic and soothing”, and referenced the growing trend towards more radical sustainability, where the environment is seen as a valued stakeholder in design and production. The bold tone was used in a similarly daring way for its appearance in designer collections, where it held a surprising versatility and exhibited many uses. For Ferragamo and OffWhite, the yellow appeared in the form of outerwear, in contemporary raincoats and parka-trouser combos. In a notable contrast, Jil Sander and Dundas presented the shade in red-carpet-ready eveningwear, either used in a structured sweeping skirt or for a silky flowing maxi dress. Images (from left to right): Christopher John Rogers Resort 2024, Dundas FW23, OffWhite FW23. Credit: Spotlight LaunchmetricsImages (from left to right): Ferragamo FW23, Jil Sander FW23, GCDS FW23. Credit: Spotlight Launchmetrics ### Background information: Colour trend forecasting involves predicting the future popularity of specific colours by analysing cultural trends, social movements and design influences among others. Companies like WGSN and its sister company, Coloro, employ their expertise and industry knowledge to examine current trends, consumer behaviour, and emerging styles. By doing so, they forecast the colours that will be in demand in the coming years, enabling their clients, and/or designers, manufacturers, and retailers, to stay ahead of the curve. This article has been edited by Jule Scott, Rachel Douglass and Esmée Blaazer. Read more: * The role of colour in fashion * Spotted on the catwalk: WGSN and Coloro’s key colours for AW23/24 * Spotted on the catwalk: WGSN and Coloro’s colour of the year 2025 Future Dusk
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L’Oréal invests in biotech company Debut

Image: L’Oréal L’Oréal’s venture capital fund Bold has announced its latest investment in US biotech company Debut as it looks to rapidly scale the firm’s manufacturing platform. Through the funding, Debut is also looking to meet the growing demand for products made using biomanufacturing, building on the existing joint development programmes of Debut and L’Oréal. Debut’s IP portfolio has the ability to produce over 7,000 ingredients that can help to bring high-value, sustainable alternatives to the market faster, L’Oréal noted in a release, with the company particularly specialising in end-to-end discovery, formulation, clinical trials and the production of natural ingredients. Its platform allows such products to be created in larger quantities, implementing synthetic biology to reduce complexity and deliver ingredients in as few as six weeks. Speaking on the partnership, Barbara Lavernos, deputy CEO of research, innovation and technology at L’Oréal, said: “Debut addresses one of the beauty world’s fundamental challenges: driving innovation without the resource-intensity and environmental impact that comes with relying on traditional manufacturing alone. “Cell-free biomanufacturing is not science fiction: it is here. We could not be more excited to be the first beauty company to invest into this technology with Debut. “We are delighted with our partnership with Debut to create together stand-out active beauty innovations while protecting the planet’s resources.”
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