(From left) Image: Filippa K, Dorothee Schumacher, Ted
Baker
What it is:
Originally known as ‘flight jackets’, the bomber jacket has faced an array
of evolutions since its creation back in 1917. Initially conceived by the
US Army Aviation Clothing Board for World War One pilots, the popular
jacket silhouette is what it is today due to, in part, aviation
advancements. Many of the features used within even the modern-day design
were initially introduced as essential details for its original purpose as
flight attire. The typical ribbed waistband and cuffs helped with
insulation, while the often present brightly coloured lining was used as a
way to locate downed pilots, ultimately causing an increase in the use of
other colours, such as the now prominent sage green. Its move into fashion
was the result of a variety of factors, from its adoption by British
subcultures as a form of self-expression to its mass accessibility caused
by fashion brands and designers to its appearance in Hollywood, such as in
blockbuster films like Tokyo Joe. Now, the bomber jacket has become a fixed
staple in fashion as a silhouette that is highly favoured among top
designers and a piece that is favoured globally, making it one of the most
popular military-linked designs in the industry.
Image: The Kooples
Why you’ll want it:
Both a fashionable and versatile garment, the bomber jacket comes with a
range of features and style options that allow for it to appeal to a broad
customer base. Not only that, the piece can often be considered a
genderless garment, making it one that can be of interest to younger
shoppers that often look beyond gender norms. One of the jacket’s strongest
appeals is its seasonless ability. The lightweight, yet insulating, details
allow for it to be a snug layer in brisk weather and still be useful as a
durable outerwear option for warmer days. Furthermore, its timelessness in
fashion has been proven over again, as it continues to make reappearances
year after year. From its early influences in past subcultures, to its mass
popularity now, the bomber jacket is a statement fashion item that
continues to hold a strong impact in the industry.
Image: New Era
Where we’ve seen it:
The bomber jacket made a number of appearances in AW22 menswear
collections, returning once again as a staple piece for high-end designers.
Both Tod’s and Hermés took the classic approach to the design, with the
latter offering up bombers with oversized pockets and leather materials in
a line that resembled a more modern take on Dandyism. Meanwhile, Samuel
Ross’ A-Cold-Wall seemingly drew more inspiration from the jacket’s roots
in military history, presenting a ruched version of an original A-1 bomber
as part of Ross’ collection that aimed to prioritise functionality.
Scandinavian label Martin Asbjørn also looked towards the jacket’s history,
however, instead, exhibiting the jacket’s genderless qualities. The brand’s
oversized leather look, worn by a female model, sported many of the
traditional qualities the jacket is known for alongside enlargened pockets
and a bulky fit.
Image: Palladium
How to style it:
The bomber jacket’s distinct shape and fit allow it to be a great layering
option for almost all seasons. Whether layered under an overcoat, worn over
a t-shirt or paired with a hoodie, the jacket has a way of making a
statement no matter how it is sported. Styling can be dependent on that of
the target group. Inspired by its subculture impact in the 60s and 80s,
layer the jacket under an oversized hoodie, complete with lace-up boots and
rugged jeans for a look that mirrors punks who adopted the style. On the
other hand, drawing influences from its military roots, the jacket can also
be paired with neutral and earthy shades, worn over a basic tee and
complemented with staple trousers, such as chinos. For smart-casual
occasions, varying jacket designs, like suede or leather, can carry a more
elevated impact for the wearer. Smart trousers and a collared shirt, paired
with loafers or sneakers, help to create a formal look that doesn’t feel
too dressy.
Image: The Kooples
With all of its history and continued impact on the fashion industry, the
bomber jacket is an outerwear silhouette that can’t be missed. As it
continues to turn up on the runway and in store fronts, either in its
typical format or displaying an array of transformations, this genderless
fashion item is not likely to fall out of favours with shoppers any time
soon, especially as it has now made its mark on the AW22 frontline.
Image: RFLCTVE
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