Saturday, July 16, 2022

FW23 According to trend forecaster Jan Agelink: Nomadic, prints and a futuristic vibe

From left to right: Isabel Marant FW22, via Catwalkpictures.com, Gucci x Adidas via Gucci, Sheltersuit image of Alex Pommier via Sheltersuit and Diesel FW22 via Diesel Trendforecaster's job is not an easy one in these turbulent times. With so much uncertainty in the world, it is difficult to look ahead, reports Jan Agelink of Buro Jantrendman during his online seminar for the FW23 season. "It's a big story because there's a lot going on." Fortunately, consumer trends and themes can indeed be found in today's unsteady world, as it turns out during the presentation. FashionUnited selected a few highlights. Those who attended multiple trend talks during the season will recognize several of the themes and trends that Agelink has spotted. The first theme is a 'nomadic look', which consists of a combination of denim, outdoor, patchwork and quilting. As well as a big element of deconstruction. "The more, the better," says Agelink. In addition to the patchwork, there is also a certain element of folklore to be seen. Sheltersuit presentation in Paris, image by Alex Pommier, via Sheltersuit Sheltersuit presentation in Paris, image Alex Pommier, via Sheltersuit So what are some good examples of this? Take Sheltersuit's first collection of looks, for example, presented at the beginning of this year, or the combination of historical fabrics with sportswear from Ahluwalia. The influences of quilting can also be seen in the Bode brand, from Emily Bode who received the Karl Lagerfeld Award For Innovation at the beginning of this year. Those who want an example of the denim styles within this theme can look at the Glenn Martens collection for Diesel that was shown during Milan Fashion Week in February. Combine all this together and a true 'clochard' look is created, a nice word for bum. Image: Diesel FW22 look, owned by Diesel. Image: Diesel FW22 look, owned by Diesel. Image: Diesel FW22 look, owned by Diesel. Three themes for FW23 according to forecaster Jan Agelink The second theme that Agelink raises for FW23 is 'copycat'. Where you can see a mix of streetwear and a grunge look. For example, there are many protest prints and clothing items that seem to have been hacked. Here too, a strong element of collage is apparent, just like with the first theme. Prints are an important tool within this theme. Not only are the protest prints here, but also the 2D versions of 3D designs (such as the knitted and printed Gucci Loafers) and the body as a print. Don't forget the retro and seventies prints in the range of prints spotted for the season. Recent collections in line with the theme include those from Gucci x Adidas, Y Project, Botter and Loewe. Loewe FW22, image via Catwalkpictures.com Image: Gucci x AdidasImage: Gucci x Adidas The third and final theme of Agelink's presentation has been given the name 'fashionaut'. It is a theme in which future systems are examined. There is also a futuristic atmosphere within this theme through the use of technical materials and silver, but this again finds a combination with earthy materials. For example, the trend forecaster describes very hairy or woolly materials. "There is a fanciful feeling, with exotic, almost alienated structures." More pronounced colors come to the fore in this theme: think of 'Very Peri', the color of 2022 proclaimed by Pantone, soft pink, various shades of green - from moss green and mint to green screen. Brands that fit well with 'fashionaut' are Duran Lantink, Rick Owens, Isabel Marant and Balmain. Alberta Ferretti FW22, image via Catwalkpictures.com Isabel Marant FW22, image via Catwalkpictures.com Fashionauts, copy cats and nomads in FW23 according to Jan Agelink All this takes place against a background of contradiction: people want to stay safe, but also want to be out and show off their bodies. There is an even stronger need for inclusiveness and diversity, which the metaverse and Web 3.0 can also help with as the digital world partly democratizes fashion and allows consumers to experiment with who they want to be. In addition, the 'mixed reality' of the physical world that clashes with the digital world is a major underlying factor for the trend forecast for FW23. Mix an element of sustainability and circularity there and you have the current combination that sets the tone. Agelink warns: "It cannot be underestimated how informed consumers are about materials and sustainability." Therefore, for the future, Agelink sees an even larger share of track & trace in the fashion industry where even more items have a qr code and a blockchain with all the information about the garment. Whether you choose to take inspiration from the nomadic theme, opt for an abundance of prints from the 'copycat' theme or take the futuristic atmosphere of 'fashionaut', the FW23 season promises plenty of inspiration. This article was originally published on FashionUnited.NL, translated and edited to English by Kelly Press.
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