Chanel show brings 8 million pound boost to Manchester

Chanel's Métiers d’Art in Manchester. Credits: Chanel.



Earlier this month, luxury brand Chanel hosted its Métiers d’Art show in the unexpected location of Manchester, bringing to the Northern UK base a celeb-packed guest list and a flair for artisanal craftsmanship.


As a result of the event, the city saw a direct economic impact of around eight million pounds, according to figures compiled by Marketing Manchester, bolstered by the accommodation and spending of the show’s 600 guests and staff, as well as other production-related expenditure.


In addition to this, the marketing firm also estimated that the national and international media coverage was valued at over 100 million pounds, which it said would help attract future investment and opportunities for those located in Manchester.


In a release, the city’s council leader, Bev Craig, said: “The Chanel event is one of the highlights in the global fashion calendar and the choice of Manchester as the host city received international acclaim.


“But for us it was never about the glitz and glamour – events such as this help cement Manchester’s reputation on a global stage and come with both direct benefits, through the money spent within our economy while they are here but also indirect benefits by showcasing the city and helping to capture investment, jobs, visitors and attention, all of which open up opportunities for Manchester residents and communities.”


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Kohl’s appoints former Bath & Body Works CFO to board

Credits: Kohl's Corp



US department store chain Kohl’s has announced the appointment of Wendy Arlin to its board of directors, as part of the company’s ongoing board refreshment process that aims to bring in “relevant, experienced leaders”.


Arlin most recently served as chief financial officer for Bath & Body Works, building on three decades of experience in the realms of corporate finance, accounting and financial reporting.


She also held leadership roles at L Brands for nearly 20 years, including senior vice president, finance and corporate controller.


Currently, Arlin serves as director of The Wendy’s Company and WK Kellogg, where she is also on the the Compensation and Talent committee and is chair of the Audit committee.


At Kohl’s, her appointment will permanently come into play at the firm’s 2024 annual shareholder meeting, while she will also serve on the board’s audit committee. Arlin brings the company’s board to 13 directors, 12 of whom are independent.


In a regulatory tiling, board chair Peter Boneparth, said: "We are pleased to welcome Wendy to the board. Her deep financial, accounting and industry experience adds to the existing strength of the board.


“Wendy is an excellent addition to our board as we continue to focus on supporting the company's strategic growth plan and delivering shareholder value."


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Canada Goose names new president of finance, strategy & administration

Beth Clymer, Canada Goose president, finance, strategy and administration Credits: Canada Goose.



Outerwear giant Canada Goose has announced the appointment of Beth Clymer to the newly created role of president, finance, strategy and administration, effective January 8, 2024.


In the position, Clymer has been tasked with overseeing finance, people and culture, corporate strategy and the legal side of the company, where she will report directly to chairman and chief executive officer, Dani Reiss.


She joins Canada Goose from Jobcase, where she served as chief financial officer for four years. Prior to this, she worked as an operating partner at Bain Capital over the course of 10 years, during which time she also worked alongside Canada Goose through a period of strategic expansion for the brand.


In a release, Clymer said that she had been a champion of the brand and its product for a long time, adding: “I am proud to have supported many of Canada Goose’s key growth levers, including market expansion, wholesale to DTC evolution and transition from privately held to publicly traded, but I believe that we are just getting started and I am excited to capture the incredible efficiencies and opportunities that lie ahead of us.”


Alongside her appointment, Canada Goose also announced that its chief marketing and experience officer, Penny Brook, would be stepping down from her position after more than a decade at the company.


In her place, Carrie Baker will continue to oversee global marketing, while Daniel Binder will lead the company’s ongoing transformation initiatives under the title chief transformation officer.


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Rolex faces a 100 million dollar fine for obstructing online watch sales

France’s competition regulator, the Autorité de la concurrence, has imposed a substantial fine of 91,600,000 euros on Rolex France, along with Rolex Holding SA, the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation, and Rolex SA.


The penalty is in response to industry referrals and subsequent investigations from Rolex's prolonged prohibition - exceeding a decade – to prevent its retailers from engaging in online sales, a practice which violates competition regulations.


Despite Rolex's argument that this ban was essential to combat counterfeiting and protect brand image, the Autorité deems it an unjustifiably restrictive measure. The regulator emphasizes that other competitors facing similar risks have successfully implemented less restrictive measures to facilitate online sales.


According to the regulator, the fine reflects the gravity and extended duration of these restrictive practices, which have adversely affected consumers and retailers. The action comes at a time when online distribution of luxury goods, including watches, has experienced significant growth over the past 15 years.


In a statement the Autorité said its decision not only entails a financial penalty but also requires Rolex France to communicate the ruling to its authorized retailers. Additionally, Rolex France must publish a summary of the decision on its website within two months, with a seven-day consecutive display. The ruling extends to print and digital editions of notable publications, including Le Figaro and Montres Magazine, ensuring wider dissemination of the decision's details.


Rolex fined by France's competition regulator Credits: Rolex


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66°North strengthens leadership and opens US headquarters

66°North campaign image Credits: 66°North



Icelandic B Corp outerwear brand 66°North is ramping up its global expansion plans with the opening of a US headquarters in New York and the appointment of its first chief commercial officer as it looks to become the first truly global Icelandic brand.


In a statement, 66°North said that Jeppe Møller will take on the newly created role of chief commercial officer in January. Previously at Ganni, where he was instrumental in driving the Danish brand’s expansion and growth, he will be heading up all global markets’ revenue channels, including merchandising.


Møller, who has worked for the brand as a consultant for the last year, will take on the role full-time based out of Copenhagen, building a new satellite head office in Denmark, while working closely with the brand’s HQ in Reykjavik, Iceland.


Jeppe Møller, chief commercial officer at 66°North Credits: 66°North



Commenting on the appointment, Helgi Oskarsson, chief executive at 66°North, said: “I have known Jeppe since 66°North first collaborated with Ganni back in 2018. I’ve always been impressed with his strategic thinking and his deep understanding of our industry. Jeppe has been working with us to sharpen our strategic focus for the coming years, and I am excited to have him now on board full-time to execute that strategy.


“Jeppe’s leadership values and team-building skills align perfectly with our vision of continuing to strengthen the global 66-Team.”


Møller, added: “I’m honoured and beyond excited to be allowed into the legacy of 66°North, and the mystery of Iceland. The technical wear category has been developing significantly into lifestyle over the past years, and I believe 66°North has the legacy and positioning to continue to build authority in the performance space while reaching a broader audience on the global scene.”


66°North appoints first chief commercial officer to drive global expansion




In addition, 66°North is expanding its international wholesale team with two new appointments. Justin Warren, most recently vice president of North America at Parajumpers, has joined the company as sales director for North America.


He will oversee the establishment of the brand's New York City office and the strategic launch of its wholesale in the market, while supporting the further development of e-commerce and retail channels in the US.


Justin Warren, sales director for North America at 66°North Credits: 66°North



On his new role, Warren said: "I'm grateful to be a part of a truly unique brand story. Through its Icelandic heritage, technical design, and commitment to circularity, 66°North has unlimited potential in the North American market. I look forward to contributing to the success of Iceland's first global brand."


While Mike Massoulier Eriksen has been appointed to bolster the 66°North team based in the Copenhagen office, as the newly appointed head of sales EMEA, reporting to Daníel Jónsson, the brand’s global wholesale director.
Previously head of buying at Wood Wood, Eriksen will lead on developing the brand’s sales strategy, new business opportunities and onboarding new customers in his markets.


Kei Toyoshima to showcase debut collection for 66°North at Paris Fashion Week




66°North campaign image Credits: 66°North



This news comes just ahead of Paris Fashion Week, where 66°North will be unveiling the first collection from its new creative director Kei Toyoshima, who joined the outerwear brand last year to create a “new handwriting” across all categories to enhance the brand experience for fashion customers.


The collection is entitled ‘66Nordur’ and will showcase Toyoshima’s overall vision of the brand, which he states will be “a reinterpretation of our rich heritage in a contemporary light, laying the foundation for introducing unique creations from the distinctive standpoint of Iceland”.


66°North, a certified B Corporation, was founded in 1926 as a protective outerwear brand for fishermen. The company has stores in Iceland and Denmark and opened a European flagship on Regent Street in London in November 2022. It also has 28 wholesale accounts globally, including Selfridges, Harrods, Mr Porter and Ssense.


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Fashion tech: In 2023 the metaverse took a back seat

Opinion


Dolce & Gabbana runway show during Metaverse Fashion Week 2022 Credits: Decentraland, MVFW



When the world was housebound during the pandemic, all things digital stepped to the fore. Not a week went by without a fashion brand launching a digital activation, aiming to build communities in the ether via augmented reality, virtual reality, or any other Web3 application, all to appeal to our avatars and seek revenue via new digital channels. Not long after, the NFT bubble burst. It is fair to say that digital fashion products have at best received a tepid reception, and virtual items are yet to impress the same feeling of value as do physical ones.


As it turned out, in 2023, the fashion industry exhibited a notable hesitancy to fully embrace the metaverse, exercising more caution than innovation. With a world at war and climate change requiring fashion businesses to navigate new strategies, the promised land where the metaverse would seamlessly integrate with the fashion industry remained limited.


Fashion and metaverse integration is limited




Read more on the Metaverse here >>



One primary challenge for the fashion industry was the practicality of translating the tangible and sensory nature of fashion into the virtual realm. Fashion thrives on the tactile experience of fabrics, the visual allure of designs, and the emotional connection formed when trying on garments. The metaverse, while a promising space for digital interaction, struggled to recreate these essential aspects, leaving fashion professionals skeptical about the feasibility of a seamless transition.


Moreover, the metaverse presented uncertainties regarding its long-term impact on the industry. Fashion is an ever-evolving sector that thrives on innovation, yet the metaverse's rapid emergence left many questioning its staying power and whether the substantial investments required would yield sustainable returns. The risk of adopting a trend that might be fleeting deterred fashion businesses from fully committing to metaverse integration.


Consumer adoption of digital identities also played a pivotal role in the fashion industry's cautious stance. Despite the growing prevalence of digital interactions and the metaverse's appeal to various sectors, consumers were not uniformly embracing the idea of crafting and projecting digital versions of themselves. Privacy concerns, data security, and the desire for authentic, tangible experiences influenced consumers to maintain a degree of separation between their physical and digital identities.


The metaverse, at least in 2023, struggled to offer a compelling enough reason for consumers to abandon traditional modes of fashion engagement. The act of physically trying on clothes, feeling textures, and experiencing the ambiance of a physical store remained integral to the consumer's relationship with fashion. As a result, the metaverse faced resistance in convincing consumers to relinquish these aspects for a fully digital experience.


As 2023 comes to a close, the fashion industry's reluctance to embrace the metaverse highlights both the practical challenges in translating fashion into the digital space and uncertainties regarding the metaverse's long-term impact. Consumers' hesitancy to adopt digital identities and the desire for tangible, authentic fashion experiences further contributed to the industry's cautious approach. As both the fashion landscape and the metaverse continue to evolve, the eventual integration of these two realms remains a complex and dynamic process.


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Authentic partners with Liberated Brands for outdoor brands

Authentic Brands Group's partnership with Liberated Brands Credits: Authentic Brands Group



Authentic Brands Group (Authentic), a global brand development, marketing, and entertainment platform, has signed a strategic partnership with Liberated Brands (Liberated) for it to take on its action and outdoor sports brands across Australia, New Zealand, Thailand, and Indonesia.


In a statement, Authentic said that Liberated would take over the operations of the brands’ extensive retail network of more than two hundred locations, as well as e-commerce and marketing operations for Quiksilver, Billabong, Roxy, RVCA, DC Shoes, Element, VonZipper, and Honolua across the region.


Supporting the transition will be Greg Healy, global and APAC president of the former Boardriders company, who will transition into a new role as Liberated’s president of APAC, overseeing the strategic growth framework for Liberated’s brand portfolio.


Todd Hymel, founder and chief executive of Liberated, said: “We are thrilled to announce our expanded partnership with Authentic. With a shared vision of enhancing the retail experience for consumers, both online and in-store, we look forward to introducing seamless shopping experiences, curated collections and unique experiences that resonate with a dedicated and growing audience.”


David Brooks, executive vice president of action and outdoor sports and lifestyle at Authentic, added: "We are excited to welcome a new chapter of growth for these iconic brands. These regions hold a special significance for Quiksilver and Billabong, as both brands were born amidst the vibrant surf culture of Australia.


“There is no better leader than Greg to continue connecting the brands with an active and passionate community that shares our same love for surf and lifestyle.”


Additional information on the brands’ upcoming regional activity is expected to be announced in 2024.


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A Christmas cheer for retailers as inflation falls

Inflation Credits: Pexels



UK inflation has fallen more than expected and will boost consumer spending as the cost of fuel and food declines.


In response to the latest Consumer Price Index (CPI) inflation figures, which indicate a decrease in headline inflation to 3.9 percent, Helen Dickinson, Chief Executive of the British Retail Consortium, emphasized the impact of intense competition among retailers in restraining price hikes for consumers. Notably, with a continued softening in clothing and footwear inflation, underscoring retailers' concerted efforts to provide an affordable holiday season for households.


Dickinson cautioned about potential inflationary risks in 2024, citing looming challenges such as higher business rates in April, new EU border checks, and a National Living Wage hike. She stressed the necessity for the government to carefully evaluate the cumulative impact of its policies, encompassing proposed initiatives like the deposit return scheme and the new packaging levy. Failure to address these factors could lead to a resurgence in the cost of doing business, ultimately reverberating through inflationary pressures.


While inflation has significantly declined from its 2022 peak, it remains nearly twice the Bank of England's 2 percent target, as reported by the BBC. A decrease in inflation doesn't imply that most goods and services have become more affordable; instead, it indicates that prices are experiencing a slower rate of increase.


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Dunhill FY23 losses widen but revenue rises

Dunhill 2023 eyewear campaign. Credits: Dunhill.



Richemont-owned Dunhill has seen its revenues take a subtle climb for the fiscal year 2023, jumping from 33.21 million pounds in the year prior to 36.36 million pounds in the current period.


Despite this, the accounts, filed in the UK’s Companies House, did show widening losses, rising from 22.056 million pounds to 37.93 million pounds.


Operating losses came to 49.13 million pounds, an increase on its previously reported 35.91 million pounds.


This came in contrast to the strong financials reported by Dunhill’s parent company Richemont for the third quarter, where sales grew by 6 percent at actual exchange rates, with increases also seen across all regions.


The report comes on the heels of a series of leadership changes at Dunhill, which this year had announced the appointment of a new creative director, Simon Holloway.


Most recently, however, the brand’s chief executive officer, Laurent Malecaze, had revealed his intention to step down from the helm position in place of taking on the same role at sister company Chloé.


During his two years at Dunhill, Malecaze was credited with overseeing a successful turnaround of the business, bringing forth his ability to energise an organisation.


At the time of the announcement, Richemont noted that a new CEO of Dunhill would be announced in due course.


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Margiela returns, Iris Van Herpen's absence: Haute Couture Week schedule unveiled

Iris Van Herpen AW23, Haute Couture Week. Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight



The provisional schedule for the upcoming Haute Couture Week has been unveiled, with many of the regular attendees already in place, while others appear to be skipping the biannual fashion event.


The Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (FHCM), the governing body for the French fashion industry, unveiled the lineup for the occasion, which is set to take place January 22 to 26, on the heels of the city’s men’s fashion week, the schedule of which was also revealed today.


Among the series of haute couture regulars returning for this season were that of Valentino, Chanel, Giambattista Valli, Viktor & Rolf, Jean Paul Gaultier and Schiaparelli, which will be kicking off the event with a show at 10am on January 22.


The week will be rounded out on the evening of January 26 with a show from Maison Margiela, which will be returning to the line up to exhibit its artisanal line.


While many of the fashion week’s big players are continuing their commitment, there were some noticeable absentees from the schedule.


Iris Van Herpen and Balenciaga were among those, as was Thom Browne and former Rochas creative director Charles de Vilmorin, both of whom had made their haute couture debuts last season.


While Balenciaga is less of a surprise in terms of absence, having previously set its sights on off-calendar events such as its most recent LA show, Iris Van Herpen is more unexpected.


The Dutch designer has appeared on the Haute Couture Week schedule for more than a decade, and has become one of the most memorable attendees in recent years.


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Sotheby’s names new head of media, editor-in-chief

Kristina O’Neill: head of Sotheby’s Media, editor-in-chief of Sotheby’s Magazine Credits: Sotheby's.



Auction house Sotheby’s has announced the appointment of Kristina O’Neill to the newly created role head of Sotheby’s Media as well as editor-in-chief of Sotheby’s Magazine, effective January 8.


The media division of the company will launch as a new global initiative dedicated to omnichannel content covering digital, audio and video elements.


Sotheby’s is hoping to leverage O’Neill’s experience in driving global audience growth and amplifying digital reach and magazine traffic.


She has been tasked with leading the transformation of Sotheby’s Magazine “into a new era as a leading lifestyle publication”, particularly through the increase of frequency, distribution and readership.


Part of O’Neill’s tasks will also be to introduce a signature event for the magazine, the first of which is set to take place in autumn 2024.


O’Neill joins Sotheby’s from WSJ. Magazine, the Wall Street Journal’s luxury-lifestyle print and digital platform, where she had served as editor-in-chief, overseeing the publication of all editorial content.


In a release, O’Neill commented: “In leading the new media division, I am thrilled at the prospect of creating deeper connections with our audience through a luxurious magazine, innovative digital offerings, and a suite of immersive events and experiences. I look forward to being a part of one of the industry’s most passionate and accomplished teams.”


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Kidz Bop inks licensing apparel deal with IHL Group

Kidz Bop music group Credits: Kidz Bop



Kidz Bop, the number one kids’ music brand, has signed an exclusive licensing deal with IHL Group to launch an apparel line next year.


Launching in North American stores in Q3 2024, the apparel will be Kidz Bop inspired, explained fashion group IHL, to “make pop star style accessible to kids everywhere”.


The collaboration will feature apparel for both boys and girls, including activewear, intimates, sleepwear, and loungewear, and will take inspiration from the Kidz Bop brand and distinct styles of the Kidz Bop kids.


IHL said fans can expect on-trend silhouettes in bold colours with fun embellishments to “elevate their pop star looks and express their individual style with mix and match separates”.


Sasha Junk, president of Kidz Bop, said in a statement: “Every year, we see hundreds of thousands of kids come to our concerts in their own pop star looks. Their excitement and enthusiasm inspired us to create a fashion line that’s on-trend, accessible and makes every kid feel like a star.


“IHL is the perfect partner to bring this vision to life, as they work with some of the biggest names in fashion and have incredible relationships with retailers.”


Sami Souid, chief executive officer for IHL Group, added: “We are thrilled to partner with Kidz Bop - a true definition of a multi-hyphenate! Kidz Bop has continued to evolve their brand – through music and content that empowers and inspires the next generation. We’ve watched the brand grow since 2001, and we couldn’t be more excited to be part of that continued growth.”


The IHL Group has a diverse portfolio, including brands Aeropostale, BCBG, Bearpaw, Jason Wu, Natori, Daisy Fuentes, Tahari, Danskin, Totally Tween, and Rae Dunn. Its key distribution partners include Bloomingdales, TJ Maxx, JC Penney, Nordstrom, Costco, Macy's, Dillards, Burlington, Ross, and Saks Fifth Avenue.


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Wolverine sells Asia-based leather business, strenghtens Chinese joint venture

Merrell campaign. Credits: Merrell



Outerwear group Wolverine World Wide has announced further efforts to advance the company’s ongoing transformation programme into a “consumer-obsessed growth category”.


Among its newly revealed moves, Wolverine has said that it has secured a 61 million dollar agreement to sell minority ownership interest in the subsidiary that owns the Saucony intellectual property and the company’s equity interest in Merrell and Saucony joint venture entities to Xtep in China.


The decision builds on Wolverine’s already established relationship with Xtep, which it initially partnered with in 2019 to launch the Merrell and Saucony brands in the region.


Through the new agreement, the sportswear specialist now has the accelerated option to purchase a 40 percent minority ownership interest in the Saucony intellectual property in light of the “early success and profitability” of the brand in China.


Xtep takes on Chinese operations of Merrell and Saucony




In addition to this, Wolverine has also agreed to sell its equity interest in the Merrell and Saucony joint venture to a wholly-owned subsidiary of Xtep, transitioning the business to a distribution rights model through which Xtep will carry out development, marketing and distribution for the brands.


The company said that the sale reflected the “growth aspects” of the two labels in China, with a new operating model set to leverage Xtep’s expertise and resources in order to further their potential in the market.


Wolverine has also said that it has entered into a definitive agreement to sell its Asia-based Wolverine Leathers business to the current materials vendor of the company, Interhides Public Company Limited, for around nine million dollars.


This completed the company’s previously announced objective to sell the subsidiary and follows on the path of recently announced transactions made over the last year, including the sale of Keds, Hush Puppies IP in Asia and the US leather business.


Speaking on the ongoing transformation, Chris Hufnagel, president and CEO of Wolverine, said in a release: “We’ve taken fast, bold, and decisive actions to stabilise the company today, while working to transform Wolverine Worldwide for the future.


“Our actions over the past four months have served to simplify our business model, reduce our cost structure, and strengthen our balance sheet. While our work isn't done, we enter the new year with a clear vision for the future, enhanced ability to invest in our brands and platforms, and ultimately, a better position to deliver stronger returns for our shareholders.”


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Lalage Beaumont opens its first store outside the UK

Lalage Beaumont store in Mode Mall, Riyadh, Saudi Arabia Credits: Lalage Beaumont



In Pictures


British handbag and ready-to-wear designer Lalage Beaumont London has opened a standalone boutique in Mode Mall in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia.


The opening marks the first Lalage Beaumont store outside the UK, building on the success within the region with stockists Saks Fifth Avenue in Bahrain, Tryano in Abu Dhabi, and Shoes and Handbags Fifty One East in Qatar.


It follows strong growth in sales to the Middle Eastern market, explains Lalage Beaumont, as sales to Middle Eastern customers through its London stores and online before Covid "grew rapidly," equating to approximately 70 percent of the brand’s total.


Lalage Beaumont store in Mode Mall, Riyadh, Saudi Arabia Credits: Lalage Beaumont



The 430-square-foot boutique is located in Mode Mall, in the exclusive Al Faisaliah District, Riyadh’s biggest hub for luxury shopping, and has been designed to reflect the clean lines of the brand's structured handbags.


Lalage Beaumont, founder and creative director, said in a statement: “It has become clear through our diverse international customer base that there are significant retail opportunities for our handbags in other parts of the world. Following the loyal support, we have received from our customers in the GCC (Gulf Cooperation Council), we are particularly delighted that our first venture is in Saudi Arabia and at such an exciting time in the development of the KSA (Kingdom of Saudi Arabia).


“We hope this boutique will be the first of several and look forward to this concept evolving in additional cities and in other countries within the GCC.”


Lalage Beaumont store in Mode Mall, Riyadh, Saudi Arabia Credits: Lalage Beaumont



Lalage Beaumont has opened the store in conjunction with its franchise partner Trafalgar Luxury Group, who have strategic partnerships with leading international brands, including Chopard, Patek Phillipe, Harry Winston, Tag Heuer, Dior, and Gucci in the Middle East.


The brand also has two standalone shops in London, in Knightsbridge and Burlington Arcade.


Lalage Beaumont store in Mode Mall, Riyadh, Saudi Arabia Credits: Lalage Beaumont



Lalage Beaumont store in Mode Mall, Riyadh, Saudi Arabia Credits: Lalage Beaumont


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Fendi unveils collaboration with Fragment and Pokémon

Fendi x Frgmt x Pokémon collection Credits: Fendi



In Pictures


Italian fashion brand Fendi has unveiled a collaboration with Hiroshi Fujiwara’s streetwear label Fragment and game franchise Pokémon to celebrate the upcoming Year of the Dragon.


The playful Fendi x Frgmt x Pokémon collection transforms bags, T-shirts, hoodies and silk pyjamas for men and women with dragon-type Pokémon, including ‘Dragonair,’ ‘Dratini,’ and ‘Dragonite’.


Key styles include Fendi’s Peekaboo and Baguette bags, as well as shopper totes and the men’s camera case bag, featuring Pokémon characters integrated with Fendi's iconic FF logo print.


Fendi x Frgmt x Pokémon collection Credits: Fendi



The collection also includes small leather goods such as wallets and cardholders, as well as a selection of galvanized brass jewellery, including earrings and rings combining the Maison's iconic FF logo with Pokémon’s signatures, including ‘Dratini’ and ‘Dragonair’ and the famous ‘Poké Ball,’ which opens on a soft chain bracelet and necklace.


Fendi x Frgmt x Pokémon collection Credits: Fendi



Commenting on the collaboration, Kim Jones, artistic director of couture and womenswear at Fendi, said in a statement: “I first met Hiroshi Fujiwara in London in 1999 – and what can I say? He’s one of my idols and I love him. He’s an instigator of the Japanese club scene, its youth fashion scene and its streetwear scene.


“I have been in love with Japan for a long time; its influence on me and what I do is huge – Hiroshi is a major part of that.”


Fendi x Frgmt x Pokémon collection Credits: Fendi



The collaboration also includes a partnership with the mobile game Pokémon Go, where players can discover Pokémon as they explore the world around them. From January 4, 2024, Pokémon GO Trainers will be able to obtain digital avatar items featuring designs from Fendi’s Year of the Dragon collaboration with Fragment and Pokémon.


The Fendi x Frgmt x Pokémon apparel and accessories collection will be available in selected Fendi boutiques worldwide and on fendi.com from January 4, 2024.


Fendi x Frgmt x Pokémon collection Credits: Fendi



Fendi x Frgmt x Pokémon collection Credits: Fendi



Fendi x Frgmt x Pokémon collection Credits: Fendi


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Fashion designer Lorenzo Riva dies

Lorenzo Riva at the SS11 fashion show of his eponymous brand with model Credits: Launchmetrics/Spotlight



Lorenzo Riva has died at the age of 85. The Italian designer is said to have died on Saturday in the San Gerardo Hospital in his hometown of Monza, reported the specialist magazine WWD. Riva worked as artistic director for the fashion house Balenciaga in the early 1980s.


The designer was known for his bridal and haute couture creations. He presented his first couture collection in Florence in 1972, after which he moved to Paris. He stayed in France until 1984 and then returned to Italy.


Lorenzo Riva SS11. Credits: Launchmetrics / Spotlight



Riva entered the international market with his eponymous brand and went on to organise shows abroad, including in Japan. In 2012, the Italian designer sold the majority of his brand to an Italian production company. However, in 2018, Riva decided to create a new brand: L'Or by Lorenzo Riva.


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HanesBrands names new chairman

HanesBrands headquarters. Credits: Hanesbrands Inc.



Apparel label HanesBrands has announced the appointment of William Simon to the position of chairman of its board of directors, effective from December 31, 2023.


Simon will succeed Ronald Nelson, who has made the decision to retire as both chairman and board member at the end of the year.


Simon has been serving as a director at HanesBrands since 2021, previously holding positions on the Talent and Compensation Committee and the Governance and Nominating Committee.


He is currently executive advisor to investment firm KKR & Co. and president of consulting company WSS Venture Holdings. Prior to this, Simon was president and chief executive officer of Walmart US.


On his appointment, Simon said in a regulatory filing: “I appreciate the board’s confidence in me, and I look forward to working with my fellow directors and the management team in my new role as chairman.


“As we move ahead with fresh perspectives gained from our recently appointed new directors, the board continues to be intensely focused on delivering enhanced shareholder value. We are collectively committed to supporting management as the team executes on opportunities to drive improved growth and profitability.”


HanesBrands further announced the retirement of Cheryl Beebe and Ann Ziegler from the board, changes that follow the appointment of three new independent directors, Colin Browne, Natasha Chand and John Mehas, last month.


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Frasers reportedly eyeing Matches acquisition

Matches in London Credits: Shaun James Cox / Matches



Mike Ashley’s retail giant Frasers Group is believed to be mulling a potential purchase of the struggling luxury e-tailer, Matches – formerly Matchesfashion.


The conglomerate is reportedly in “detailed negotiations” on a deal that could see it take over Matches “within days”, according to city sources for Sky News.


The media outlet said that any agreement made by Frasers could result in “heavy losses” for Apax Partners, Matches’ long-term private equity backer, with the group understood to be looking at a 50 million pound solvent deal.


Frasers is one of the few parties who had submitted offers for a buyout last week, with Next being another eyeing an acquisition.


Speculation surrounding Matches’ financial position has been circulating throughout the year, after it was revealed that Apax had injected 60 million pounds into the company in January, to cover both equity and debt.


Later, in December, a report by Drapers stated that Matches was reportedly seeking a 50 million pound equity raise amid an ongoing turnaround strategy, with all options said to be on the table.


In November, Matches had reported widening losses during the year to January 31, with operating losses up from 37.5 million pounds to 67.2 million pounds. In addition to this, revenue also fell 1.7 percent for the period to 380 million pounds.


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Coliseum plan further investment in Gildan, firm's managing partner joins board

Credits: Gildan Activewear Inc.



Gildan Activewear has announced a support agreement with Coliseum Capital Management, pursuant to which Coliseum will support the company’s full slate of board nominees at each of the 2024 and 2025 annual meetings of shareholders.


In connection with the agreement, Coliseum announced that it intends to make an additional investment in Gildan through market purchases during insider open window periods. Additionally, Chris Shackelton, a co-founder and managing partner of Coliseum joined Gildan’s board of directors.


After joining the Gildan board, Chris Shackelton said, “It is a privilege to serve on this board and represent shareholders at this critical juncture. This agreement is a clear reflection of our conviction in the company’s strategy, leadership, board and bright future.”


The development takes place after the Canadian investment management firm Turtle Creek Asset Management and Browning West, both longtime shareholders in Gildan issued a letter to Gildan board urging it to reverse its termination of Glenn Chamandy and reappoint him as CEO of the company.


“Coliseum’s intent to further invest in Gildan is a testament to its belief in the Company’s leadership, board, strategic plan and capability to deliver value,” added Donald C. Berg, chair of Gildan’s board.


Commenting about the board’s succession plans that had been publicly disseminated, Berg said: “Our succession plan has been a multi-year, careful, and deliberate process which included the former CEO at appropriate times throughout the process. It resulted in a well thought out rationale for the board’s unanimous decision to appoint Vince Tyra as the new CEO.”


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From candy canes to festive carousels: The most dazzling Christmas displays of 2023

In Pictures

Anya Hindmarch 'Anya's Grotto' Christmas pop-up on Pont
Street, London. Credits: Inkl.

With Christmas just around the corner and the hunt for last-minute gifts
going ahead, fashion retailers and department stores are continuing their
efforts to reel in customers with festively decorated shop windows,
displays and pop-ups. Whether it's a Christmas tree, artificial snow or
twinkling fairy lights, nothing has been missed for this year’s festive
season. FashionUnited has put together the most dazzling displays from
fashion stores around the world that will make your eyes light up and
immerse visitors in the world of Christmas.



Valentino at Harrods - London



Valentino Christmas takeover at Harrods, London Credits:
Valentino

Valentino once again puts its attention on the colour pink. The Italian
brand's 'Pink PP' line has encased the windows of British luxury department
store Harrods in the glow of the characteristic colour for the festive
season. Lavishly wrapped gifts are piled up in the window displays
alongside accessories from the latest Valentino collections. In front of
the Hans Crescent entrance to the shopping centre is a nine-metre-long
Christmas tree bearing the brand's logo. Next to it, a food truck serves
hot chocolate and sweet treats - also in Valentino style.

Valentino Christmas takeover at Harrods, London. Credits:
Valentino

Ralph Lauren and the KaDeWe Group – Berlin, München und Hamburg



The shop window of the KaDeWe Group x Ralph Lauren Holiday
Takeover. Credits: KaDeWe

The German luxury department store operator KaDeWe Group also took the
opportunity to give its eponymous flagship in Berlin, the Alsterhaus in
Hamburg and the Oberpollinger in Munich a festive makeover. This year, the
US fashion group Ralph Lauren had the honour of designing the shop windows.
In addition to sledging teddy bears and a traditional chalet atmosphere,
the winter collection of the premium label can be discovered in front of a
snow-covered Christmas landscape. KaDeWe is playing host to a pop-up of the
brand with an in-house café that serves visitors warm drinks and desserts.


Ralph’s Coffee. Credits: KaDeWe Group

Dior at Saks – New York



Dior's 'Carousel of Dreams' at Saks in New York. Credits:
Saks/Paul Vu

A special Christmas spectacle can be seen at Saks on Fifth Avenue in New
York: French fashion house Dior has transformed the 10-storey façade of the
luxury department store into a 'Carousel of Dreams' using a work of art
with watercolour effects and three-dimensional metal elements. When it gets
dark, around 300,000 LED lights illuminate the building, while a medley of
Christmas songs emphasises the atmosphere.

Dior's 'Carousel of Dreams' at Saks in New York. Credits:
Luis Guillen Photography /Saks x Dior

The shop windows tell "an enchanting story about Monsieur Dior's dream
journey from Paris to Saks' hometown of New York City" using animated
projections and images of typical city landmarks, including the Eiffel
Tower and the Statue of Liberty. The theme of the carousel installation
continues inside the department store, where Dior haute couture models are
displayed on the sales floor.



Anya Hindmarch – London



Anya Hindmarch 'Anya's Grotto' Festive Gift Shop Pop-Up, Pont
Street London. Nov. 23.Credits: Courtesy of inkl.

Visitors to British accessories and bag designer Anya Hindmarch's
'Village' shop on Pont Street in London's Chelsea neighbourhood can immerse
themselves in a dreamy Christmas atmosphere. With a specially painted red
façade illuminated by fairy lights, the pop-up, 'Anya's Grotto', creates a
radiant Christmas oasis. Children can book in advance for an adventurous
tour with Father Christmas, which ends with a Christmas story by the open
fire. Gift ideas round off the shopping experience.



Brunello Cucinelli in Harrods – London



Brunello Cucinelli at Harrods Credits: Brunello Cucinelli


The Italian fashion house Brunello Cucinelli defies the freezing cold at
Harrods in London. The shop windows, framed by blocks of ice and icicles,
offer a view of a winter landscape in which snow bunnies and foxes frolic.
White sales areas present a neutral-coloured collection to match the
season. The design concept, 'Solomeo in White', takes its name from
Cucinelli's small home village of Solomeo in Umbria and is intended to
evoke the snow that is often longed for in winter.

Brunello Cucinelli Pop-up at Harrods. Credits: Brunello
Cucinelli

Stella McCartney and Selfridges – London



Stella McCartney's Stellabration at Selfridges, The Corner
Shop. Credits: Selfridges.

British designer Stella McCartney has brought her own flair to The
Corner Shop at Selfridges, offering customers a theatrical experience
entitled ‘Stellabration’. Here, her eponymous brand is displayed among a
vintage aesthetic and festive tropes, with The Lucky Light Show being a
core part of the space, where a collection of neon lighting from past
displays have been reused to emphasise McCartney’s sustainable mindset. In
fact, according to the department store, the majority of materials and
decorations used in the display are recycled, recyclable or biodegradable.


Stella McCartney's Stellabration at Selfridges, The Corner
Shop. Credits: Selfridges.

Bergdorf Goodman’s ‘Isn't it Brilliant’ – New York



Bergdorf Goodman’s ‘Isn't it Brilliant’ window. Credits:
Bergdorf Goodman.

Following the holiday theme ‘Isn’t it Brilliant’, luxury retailer
Bergdorf Goodman has unveiled a series of windows throughout its New York
store, each designed to reflect what it said was a 360-degree holiday
programming. Lights, mirrors, chrome, ice and neon colours are aglow in the
displays, each created as always by the retailer’s in-house design team,
who brought their own take on the concept at hand. Among the designers
featured in the windows are the likes of Balmain, Rodarte, Simone Rocha,
Jil Sander and Rabanne.

Bergdorf Goodman’s ‘Isn't it Brilliant’ window. Credits:
Bergdorf Goodman.

Printemps and Prada – Paris



Prada pop-up in Printemps Haussmann. Credits: Courtesy of
Prada

Prada has taken over a part of Paris’ Printemps Haussmann department
store for a select period of time, hosting a pop-up that celebrates the New
Year. An installation within the retail space is dedicated to the theme
‘Paper Christmas, wishes come true’ and draws inspiration from literary
classics, as reflected in an 11-metre-high library housing books stamped
with the luxury label’s logo. Among bauble designs and cascading envelopes
is further evidence of Prada branding, in particular its signature triangle
reinterpreted through the use of paper.

Prada pop-up in Printemps Haussmann. Credits: Courtesy of
Prada


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The Platform Group acquires 100 percent stake in German furniture company

Credits: Möbelfirst via Facebook



The Platform Group is acquiring the outstanding shares of Möbelfirst, one of the leading platforms for luxury furniture in German-speaking countries.


Commenting on the transaction, Dominik Benner, CEO of The Platform Group said: “Möbelfirst has developed very well as a platform, has always been profitable and now has shopping carts averaging 4,100 euros - this is unique in the furniture industry. We are pleased to now increase our shares to 100 percent and to consistently pursue our profitable growth strategy.”


The Platform Group has been the majority shareholder at Möbelfirst since 2021 and has successfully expanded the strategy since joining, particularly through the use of TPG's software solutions. Over 500 partners in the furniture trade sector are now connected to the platform, and the company is based in Bonn.


“We have developed Möbelfirst into the leading platform for luxury furniture and, contrary to the industry trend, we are growing double-digit and profitably. We are pleased to continue to play a key role in shaping the development as managing directors” added Christoph Ritschel, managing director of Möbelfirst.


The company said in a statement that further acquisition of 49.9 percent of Möbelfirst was implemented in December 2023; the closing of the transaction was agreed on March 1, 2024. From this point on, The Platform Group will hold 100 percent shares in the company. Both parties have agreed not to disclose the purchase price.


Adding further, Dennis Franken, also managing director of the company, said: “Last year we have already developed from classic upholstered furniture to office furniture, and our B2B sales are increasing significantly . Next year we are planning the next expansion of our business activities in the area of ​​luxury furniture and kitchens. We will significantly expand the number of dealers.”


In the coming year, the company added, The Platform Group plans to continue its successful acquisition strategy and acquire between three to eight additional companies, both in the B2B and B2C sectors.


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LCI Barcelona to honour Paris fashion museum director with Felicidad Duce prize

The exhibition "Azzedine Alaïa, couturier collector" at the Palais Galliera. Balenciaga and Jeanne Lanvin. Credits: F. Julienne



LCI Barcelona’s fashion school Felicidad Duce will be honouring Miren Arzalluz, art historian, curator and currently the director of Palais Galliera, the fashion museum of the city of Paris, as per a press release sent out by the school. Arzalluz will receive the Felicidad Duce prize on December 18.


The Barcelona design school is recognising the curator for her contribution to the fashion sector and her importance internationally.


Miren Arzalluz was born in Bilbao and studied history in her native Basque country, and later comparative politics and the history of costume in London.

She later wrote the book ‘La forja del maestro’, or ‘the forge of the master’ about Cristóbal Balenciaga and the role he occupied in the history of fashion.


The art historian has been working in the world of fashion for over 15 years. Before being named director of Paris’ Palais Galliera in 2017, she was responsible for the collection and exhibitions at the Cristóbal Balenciaga Foundation for seven years.


Under her mandate, highly successful exhibitions have been held in the Paris fashion museum, such as ‘Gabrielle Chanel: Fashion Manifesto’, which opened at the beginning of the pandemic, and ran until 2021.


Miren Arzalluz, director of the Paris fashion museum to receive award at LCI Barcelona




There was also Azzedine Alaïa, couturier and collector, with Alaïa's hitherto unpublished heritage exhibition, which takes us back to 19th century fashion to learn about its beginnings.


Previous winners of the prize include Balenciaga’s Pablo Coppola, Spanish fashion designer Teresa Helbig, and Jean-Paul Gaultier.


The jury for LCI Barcelona’s Felicidad Duce prize 2023 includes: Estel Vilaseca, head of the Felicidad Duce fashion school at LCI Barcelona, fashion consultant at Unseentrends and deputy editor at the Spanish magazine Vein Magazine, Lucia Alcaina, fashion designer, trend forecaster and cultural and innovation theorist as well as president of this year’s jury Charo Mora, a journalist, professor, curator, researcher and fashion consultant.


"To be able to create frameworks for dissemination and reflection with a critical view of the history and sociology of fashion is of vital importance in order to enhance the value of the discipline," Estel Vilaseca, head of the LCI Barcelona fashion school and jury member said in a statement.


She continued: "Miren Arzalluz's contribution to this, first as an expert on Balenciaga, and currently at the helm of one of the museums specialising in fashion, is undeniable."


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Gucci: New chief industrial and supply chain officer comes from Prada

Credits: Gucci



Massimo Vian has moved from the Prada Group to Kering. Vian, who most recently served as chief operating officer for Italian fashion house Prada, has been appointed to the newly created role of chief industrial and supply chain officer at the Florentine luxury label Gucci. According to the industry magazine WWD, he will take up his new position on January 15, 2024.


In his new role, Vian will report directly to Gucci chief executive officer Jean-François Palus and will be responsible for the development and manufacturing of the brand's leather goods, footwear, ready-to-wear and jewellery, as well as overseeing product allocation processes across Gucci's various sales channels.


Most recently, he was chief operating officer at Prada for almost three years, a role he initially took on in 2020 following his short stint as chief executive officer at the cashmere brand Falconeri.


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Pucci to show its next collection in Rome

Pucci Vivara print Credits: Pucci website



Florentine fashion house Pucci is to show its next collection in Rome, on April 4th. The brand, best known for its kaleidoscopic prints, will present its "Very Vivara" collection by artistic director Camille Miceli.


Ms Miceli, who assumed the creative reins of the LVMH-owned brand in 2021, has been instrumental in reigniting a modern path for the heritage house. Founded in 1947 in Florence by Emilio Pucci, the Marquis of Barsento, Pucci has left an indelible mark on the fashion industry with its signature fluid fabrics, silk scarves, and vibrant prints.


The Vivara print, Pucci’s distinctive pattern, was initially introduced by Emilio in 1965 and inspired by the undulating waves of the sea. It will also take center stage in the forthcoming "Very Vivara" collection.


Pucci stands as a trailblazer among European brands, being among the pioneers to adopt the American concept of sportswear—an ethos centered around the pursuit of comfort. Over time, this innovative approach, coupled with an inherent appreciation for beauty and opulence, has indelibly shaped the brand's legacy.


Pucci's enduring impact is epitomised by the distinctive prints that not only garnered Emilio Pucci the moniker "The Prince of Prints" but also encapsulate his unique fusion of functionality, style, and luxury.


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Christmas shoppers forecast to "panic spend" 3.31 billion pounds this weekend

Shoppers forecast to spend 3.3` billion pounds before Christmas Credits: Analyticalways



Retailers are anticipating a 3.31 billion pound boost during ‘Panic Weekend’ (16-17 December), with only 12 days remaining until Christmas.


New insights into UK consumers' festive shopping habits have surfaced, offering a glimpse into the dynamics of the last full weekend before the holidays.


The "Shopping for Christmas Report: The build up to Christmas and Boxing Day sales" by VoucherCodes.co.uk discloses projections for a substantial spending spree, with Christmas shoppers expected to invest 3.31 billion pounds this weekend on last-minute gifts, food, and beverages.


Key Statistics from the report





* 3.31bn pound expenditure forecast, reflecting a 15.3 percent YoY increase.

* Anticipated participation of 38 million people shopping both in-store and online over the weekend.

* ‘Super Saturday’ poised to generate 1.76bn pounds in sales, making it the most lucrative day in the Christmas lead-up.

* ‘Stampede Sunday’ projected to witness 1.55bn pounds in spending over the day.






The Shopping for Christmas report indicates an optimistic outlook for retailers, projecting a huge surge in spending during this year’s ‘Panic Weekend,’ attributed to factors such as inflation and the timing of Christmas. With the event occurring a day earlier this year, retailers gain an additional day to attract consumers, with an estimated 38 million shoppers anticipated, marking an increase of 3.8 million from the previous year.


‘Super Saturday’ (16th Dec) is expected to be the pinnacle of sales activity, reaching 1.76bn pounds. High-street foot traffic is predicted to comprise 12.7 million shoppers, contributing to a spending total of 1.15bn pounds, a 19 percent YoY increase. Concurrently, 6.8 million consumers are projected to engage in online shopping, contributing £0.61bn to the digital sales landscape.


On ‘Stampede Sunday’ (17th Dec), in-store spending is forecasted to reach 0.86bn pounds, involving 10.3 million shoppers. Simultaneously, online spending by 8.2 million consumers is estimated at 0.68bn pounds. Collectively, Sunday 17th is poised to be the second-highest spending day of the week, totaling 1.55bn pounds.


Michael Brandy, Senior Commercial Director at VoucherCodes.co.uk, comments: “This year has been particularly tough for retailers so it’s great to see there’s going to be one more boost to sales before the end of the year.


“With sales forecast to increase by an enormous 15.3% year-on-year and customer numbers set to increase by 10.5% over the weekend, both online and offline retailers should brace themselves for a last-minute festive rush.


“To see the biggest rewards over ‘Panic Weekend’, retailers should prioritise convenience and value above all else. Consumers only have a few days left before Christmas to pick up their festive essentials so by putting popular gifts, food and drink in pride of place and offering discounts on these items retailers will be able to encourage extra sales and create a loyal customer base.”


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LVMH to establish sustainability initiative for its suppliers and partners

Antoine Arnault at the LVMH LIFE 360 Summit Credits: Philippe Servent



LVMH this week held its LIFE 360 Summit at UNESCO, where it shared the luxury group's achievements and future initiatives under its LIFE 360 program launched in 2021. Attended by prominent figures like chairman Bernard Arnault, Christophe Béchu (French Minister for Ecological Transition and Cohesion of the Territories) and Virginijus Sinkevičius (European Commissioner for the Environment, Oceans and Fisheries), the event marked the culmination of the program's 2023 commitments across various environmental aspects.


One of the most forward thinking plans is a new initiative supporting its suppliers in reducing carbon footprint, water impact, and biodiversity impact. As part of its LIFE 360 Business Partners plan, the program aims to make suppliers true partners in LVMH's environmental transition, fostering collaboration and shared solutions.


In a statement the group said in line with the call for greater collaboration between companies in the luxury sector that Antoine Arnault made last June at the Fashion Summit in Copenhagen, other key changemakers in the industry, in particular Chanel, Pernod Ricard, Martell Mumm, Perrier-Jouët, came together at the LIFE 360 Summit in a panel discussion entitled Joining Forces. "Given the acute urgency of the environmental situation, LVMH believes that we can only overcome the challenges if we work together, uniting the private and public sectors, scientists, NGOs, and peers."


Other highlights from the summit include:


Creative Circularity




LVMH said it met its 2023 target for creative circularity by establishing a repair-and-care task force in several Maisons, exemplified by Louis Vuitton's repair of 600,000 products annually. Additionally, the group introduced LVMH Circularity, fostering partnerships for fabric and leather reuse and recycling.


Biodiversity




Having regenerated 1.37 million hectares by 2022, LVMH aims to reach five million hectares by 2030. Initiatives include regenerative agriculture programs globally and partnerships with NGOs like FAS in Brazil. A water efficiency plan targets a 30 percent reduction in overall water consumption by 2030.


Climate




The group reduced greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions by 11 and 15 percent between 2019 and 2022, decoupling emissions from growth. Achievements result from eco-design, energy efficiency, and transport programs. An exceeded target of 10 percent energy consumption reduction affirms commitment.


Traceability & Transparency




The company said it is on track to achieve its 2023 target of knowing the countries of origin for strategic raw materials, reaching 95-100 percent for diamonds, wool, and leather. The group deploys new traceability tools, and its certification rates have significantly increased over two years.


Strategic Partnerships




LVMH continues its partnership with UNESCO's Man and the Biosphere program, focusing on biodiversity promotion programs and data collection for impact measurement. Collaborative efforts with other luxury stakeholders emphasize shared auditing checklists and schedules.


Acknowledging the challenges ahead, LVMH said it was confident in meeting 2026 and 2030 targets, reinforcing its action plan for virgin fossil-based plastics.


Perhaps the most notable target the group has set is working with other suppliers and businesses to reduce the global environmental impact as collaborative effort. These efforts to engage with suppliers, offer training and sharing solutions mark a significant step forward.


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Lush commits 10.6 million pounds to retail network

Lush Covent Garden pop-up. Credits: Lush.



Cosmetics giant Lush has said it is projected to spend 10.6 million pounds on UK stores ahead of the new year, as it continues to strengthen its retail network and improve existing shops.


The commitment is an eight million pound increase on the company’s previously announced investment in FY23 for the UK.


A significant part of the investment was Lush’s opening in Glasgow City, where the retailer took over a 20,000 square foot space with a new anchor store spanning five floors, with an additional to follow in 2024 housing a Lush Spa.


Other store openings included locations in Kingston Upon-Thames, Teeside, Aberdeen and London’s Covent Garden, where Lush is first hosting a festive pop-up before plans to expand in the upcoming spring.


In a release, Lush’s head of retail stores for the UK and Ireland, Kasey Swithenbank, said: "We know that physical retail spaces contribute to lasting memories. There are certain times throughout our lives that require physical retail, the purchasing of a wedding dress, buying your child's first pair of shoes, going out shopping with friends for the first time as a teenager.


“At Lush, we're committed to creating spaces that contribute to our customers being able to create lasting memories with their friends and family and our blend between traditional retailing and experiential retailing highlights this."


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H&M sees net sales increase for FY23

H&M Stockholm store. Credits: H&M



Fast fashion giant H&M Group has said that its net sales for the 2023 financial year, spanning December 1, 2022, to November 30, 2023, increased by 6 percent, compared with the year prior.


This amounted to 236.014 million Swedish krona (18.08 million pounds). Russia and Belarus were excluded from this total, yet the group reported that in this region sales rose 8 percent in krona and 1 percent in local currencies.


For the fourth quarter of the year, covering September 1, 2023, to November 30, 2023, net sales were flat in comparison to the same period last year, coming to 62.629 million Swedish krona (4.8 million pounds).


The results were similar to that of its third and second quarters, when the group also reported “flattish” results and said that the increase in sales came despite reduced purchasing power and unfavourable weather conditions.


In Russia and Belarus, the increase was 3 percent in SEK, yet in local currencies, a decrease of 1 percent.


In total, H&M said net sales fell 4 percent in local currencies.


The company noted that these figures were provisional, and may deviate from the full-year report set to be published January 31, 2024.


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Russian designer Gosha Rubchinskiy named Yeezy head of design

Yeezy x Adidas slider. Credits: Yeezy.



Gosha Rubchinskiy, a Russian designer and former Adidas collaborator, has been named the new head of design for Kanye West’s fashion brand Yeezy.


To make the announcement, West made a rare reappearance on X – formerly Twitter – revealing that Rubchinskiy was to take up the new role immediately.


The statement continued: “The arrival of this legendary Russian designer at Yeezy, the pre-eminent global brand in music and fashion, is a milestone in design history.”


The revelation comes after a quiet period for West, who had his ties with the fashion industry severed after he made a series of anti-semite remarks and publicly called out various partnered brands on allegations of not adhering to contracts, among other controversial moves.


As a result, West saw his deals with Balenciaga, Vogue, Adidas and Gap cancelled, resulting in substantial financial losses for the rapper and leading him to pursue other opportunities in a bid to revive his label.


The choice of Rubchinskiy appears to be part of such attempts. The designer has worked with the likes of Burberry and Levi’s, alongside operating his own eponymous label founded in 2008. He has also collaborated with Adidas on a number of projects.


The designer shared further details of his impending role at Yeezy on his own Instagram account, which stated that the company was “set to embrace exciting new projects and collaborations that embody [its] spirit of independence and creative drive”.


As a result, Rubchinskiy said he would be introducing a new direction for his own brand, stepping away from the Comme Des Garcons and Rassvet family, who he had previously been associating and collaborating with, to forge a new path.


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Chrono24 names Zalando’s Carsten Keller as CEO

Carsten Keller, CEO of Chrono24. Credits: Zalando.



Global marketplace for luxury watches Chrono24 has announced that former Zalando executive Carsten Keller will take over as chief executive officer, effective January 1, 2024.


Keller will succeed co-chief executive’s Tim Stracke and Holger Felgner, who are handing over the reins to “unlock the next phase of growth” for Chrono24.


Stracke said in a statement: “While the decision hasn’t been easy, Holger and I always knew that we would eventually need to find a successor to lead Chrono24 into the next phase of growth. Carsten’s expertise in the luxury industry and with fast-paced online marketplaces as well as his experience in the leadership team of a publicly traded company make him a one-in-a-million candidate to unlock the next chapter for Chrono24. We are very excited to witness all he will do.”


Chrono24 taps Zalando executive Carsten Keller as chief executive officer




Over the past eight years, Keller has been instrumental in building Europe’s leading marketplace for fashion brands and retailers at Zalando, contributing more than 5 billion Euros to the platform's overall gross merchandise value. As a part of that, Keller also founded Zalando’s Connected Retail venture, enabling more than 7,500 offline retailers to sell their goods online.


Stracke and Felgner will remain key shareholders and continue to support the company as active members of the board, which Stracke will lead as its chairman.


Deven Parekh, managing partner at Insight Partners and investor in Chrono24, added: "The board is indebted to Tim and Holger for their exceptional leadership and invaluable contributions, which have been pivotal to Chrono24’s success.


“Taking over at the helm, Carsten is undoubtedly the best possible successor. He is a proven leader, a great cultural fit, has strong business vision and the ability to bring people together. His perspective on the global future of the luxury industry aligns perfectly with Chrono24's needs as we embark on a new phase of further product innovation and growth."


Chrono24, founded in 2003, offers new, used, and vintage watches and has over 530,000 watches from more than 35,000 professional retailers and private sellers. The platform attracts an average of 9 million users globally per month, shopping in 22 languages.


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Designerwear secures ‘six-figure’ investment

Designerwear secures ‘six-figure’ investment from River Capital. Credits: River Capital.



Designer apparel e-tailer Designerwear International has secured a “game-changing six-figure investment” from the North West Business Growth Loan, managed by River Capital.


With the funding, the Lancashire-based company said it would bolster its rapid expansion and establish partnerships with leading designer brands.


Founded in 2015 by Ben Wallington, Designerwear has seen a 90 percent growth period in 2022, and currently operates a 16,000 square foot warehouse.


Putting to use the latest cash injection, Wallington said that he plans to boost sales revenue, improve supplier terms, increase margins and create up to five new jobs.


In a release, the managing director said: “The funding provided by Jim and the River Capital team will enable us to move to the next level with our expansion plans and to grow our customer base, revenue and brand portfolio in the mens and womens premium online space.”


Jim Moore from River Capital added: “The future looks phenomenally bright for Designerwear International. With the financial fuel to match their limitless ambition, there’s no telling what the business could achieve.


“When the fund was established, it was done so to create and safeguard jobs within the North West and Ben’s plans to create up to five indicates their commitment to doing just that. We now look forward to following the next part of their journey and offering support along the way.”


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LVMH appoints Claire de Coincy as head of human resources at holding company

The Louis Vuitton store on the Champs-Élysées in Paris Credits: LVMH



French luxury goods group Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton (LVMH) has appointed Claire de Coincy as human resources director of its holding company with immediate effect. The human resources expert most recently worked as HR director at the fashion house Chloé.


In her new role at LVMH, she will determine the holding firm's human resources strategy and continue to drive forward the change that has been taking place at the company and among all of its employees for several years, the group said in a statement on the business platform Linkedin.


“I am pleased to welcome Claire to the group’s human resources team,” Chantal Gaemperle, LVMH’s executive vice president of human resources and synergies, said in a statement. “I know that with her wealth of experience and diverse skills, she will support and accelerate important projects that continue to gain momentum.”


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Etsy to cut 225 jobs amid internal reorganisation

Credits: Etsy



Marketplace platform Etsy has said it will be scrapping 11 percent of its workforce, equating to around 225 jobs, amid an ongoing reorganisation of its internal structure.


The announcement was made by the company’s chief executive officer, Josh Silverman, who said in an open letter that the shift was an attempt to “more closely align [Etsy’s] resources with [its] most important business priorities and better serve [its] customers”.


Silverman penned the decision down to the “challenging macro and competitive environment” the company is currently facing, as well as the flat gross merchandise sales (GMS) that have remained unchanged since 2021, resulting in less sales for sellers.


He also noted that employee expenses had grown despite the introduction of cost-cutting measures and a pause on hiring, leading to an unsustainable trajectory.


Looking ahead to the new year, Silverman said that a “Vital Few” projects and initiatives have been outlined in order to bolster growth, centred around a “leaner, more agile team” with a simple and efficient structure.


Next to this, Silverman also announced some changes to his executive team, each to come into effect from January 1, 2024.


Among them, Nick Daniel is to take on payment and fulfilment functions in the product division, while Raina Moskowitz was to expand her role as chief operating officer and marketing officer following former CMO Ryan Scott’s departure.


Additionally, Kim Seymour will be stepping down from the position of chief human resources officer, and will be succeeded by Etsy’s current VP of global people and talent strategy.


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Item of the week: the statement choker

(From left) French Connection, Na-kd, Agent Provocateur.
Credits: FashionUnited Marketplace.

What it is:



While commonly linked to trends prevailing in the 90s and 00s, the choker
necklace’s origins actually span back hundreds of years, with Anne Boleyn
often understood to be the first documented individual to be portrayed in a
painting wearing such a necklace. Since then, the choker has rarely
fluctuated in popularity, and has instead been an accessory item that has
adapted according to the time period, seeing it take on many forms. Now,
the piece has experienced yet another resurgence, becoming the necklace
style of choice for SS24, this time appearing in bold shapes and sizes
making it a stand-out statement.

Moschino. Credits: FashionUnited Marketplace.


Why you’ll want it:



Chokers were framed as the must-have accessory for SS24, appearing on an
array of runways in statement shapes and adorned with bold embellishments.
Their prominence underlines the foreseeable future for these necklace
types, as they are thrust back into the limelight for consumers that are
either exploring the trend as a new venture or returning to it with
nostalgia. The bold styles that swept the runway are a perfect way to
reintroduce the piece for new and older audiences that are looking for a
daring item to take them into the holiday seasons and build on their
fashion-forward wardrobe.

Guess. Credits: FashionUnited Marketplace.


Where we’ve seen it:



One choker style that really had its heyday for SS24 utilised fabric to
make a flower shape along the neck. Brands like Christian Cowan and Ulla
Johnson did just that, while Keqiao and Pedro Del Herrio also put fabric to
use albeit in alternating ways. Oversized beading was another popular
choker style, present on the runways of Stella McCartney, Zimmermann and
Emilia Wickstead, where eye-catching designs drew looks together. Laquan
Smith, on the other hand, summoned up the world of 70s sci-fi films with
its own take on the choker, a ribbed metal piece that traversed the neck.

Hunkemoller. Credits: FashionUnited Marketplace.


How to style it:



With statement chokers, the wearer can allow the piece to speak for itself,
using it as a way to tie a simple look together to elevate an outfit
effortlessly. This means the necklace can be paired with minimalist
garments, such as a little black dress or a pared down two-piece suit, each
of which will immediately be stepped up a notch when a statement choker is
added. For maximalists, however, don’t be afraid to take the statement one
step further. Bold prints that potentially match the necklace’s colourway
or contrasting textures that diverge from the choker’s own are good ways to
amp up the volume.

Madewell. Credits: FashionUnited Marketplace.


Choker necklaces are making a big come back for SS24, in more ways than one
– the other being size. Scaled up, highly embellished or with bulky
beading, this accessory is here to make a statement for this season that is
loud and proud.

Madewell. Credits: FashionUnited Marketplace.




Similar items available for (pre)order can be found in the FashionUnited
Marketplace. You can find
them by clicking on this link.


http://dlvr.it/T04t23