The first Neonyt in Düsseldorf comes to an end. Photo: FashionUnited
After the interruptions during the pandemic, fashion fairs in Europe are returning to normal operations. But the lockdowns have left their mark, brands and buyers alike were often reluctant to travel in light of the uncertain economic situation.
To what extent have fairs like Pitti or Premium been able to return to their old form? FashionUnited has brought together an overview of the fairs for FW23.
Pitti Uomo, Florence
Pitti Uomo is and remains the place where the (men's) fashion industry gathers at the beginning of the ordering season. The number of exhibitors recovered from the slump during the pandemic to a total of 800. Meanwhile, the number of visitors rose to over 18,000: 13,500 were buyers, 33 percent of whom came from outside Italy. Before the pandemic, the fair had 1,200 exhibitors and over 21,000 buyers. In its January edition, the fair was again able to impress with fashion highlights, such as fresh up-and-coming brands and shows by guest fashion designers like Jan Jan van Essche and Martine Rose. For the first time, there was also an section for dog fashion.
Read more about the Pitti Uomo:
* Pitti Uomo: An animalistic mood in Florence
* Golden Hour in Florence: The street styles of Pitti Uomo
Image: FashionUnited
Premium and Seek, Berlin
The mood at the Berlin trade fairs Premium and Seek was more relaxed than expected after fears surrounding the Christmas business did not materialise. Around 500 brands showed their collections at the two fairs, compared to about twice as many before the pandemic. According to the organiser Premium Group, a total of around 10,000 visitors were counted, 80 percent of whom came from German-speaking countries.
Overall, Seek seemed livelier with streetwear and many green brands, while Premium was quieter. Some visitors remarked afterwards that Premium in particular could be more curated. For the first time in three years, Berlin Fashion Week took place at the same time as the fairs. In the same week, the sustainable fashion fair Beyond Fashion Berlin made its debut.
Read more from Berlin here:
* Berlin Fashion Week: Things are happening, but what’s next?
Image: Pure London | Credit: FashionUnited
Pure and Scoop, London
While other cities experienced some declines in attendance and participation, Hyve Group fairs Pure and Scoop reported positive figures on their return to the UK capital. Over 250 brands exhibited at each show, spanning womenswear, menswear, footwear and accessories. While Pure had a dedicated space for manufacturers, Scoop opted to also show lifestyle collections during its event.
Notably, the group never discloses exact numbers of attendance, however at Scoop, which took place the last three days of January, reported “its highest ever number of buyers” for an AW show. Pure also saw positive numbers, with its organiser Gloria Sandrucci noting that international buyers had been among those returning. In total, there were attendees from over 22 countries, Sandrucci told FashionUnited.
Read more from Pure and Scoop:
* Pure London enjoys positive AW23 edition despite wider retail woes
* Pure London: The role of smaller businesses in pioneering sustainable fashion
* Scoop celebrates record buyer numbers
Modefabriek January 2023. Image: Aygin Kolaei for FashionUnited.
Modefabriek, Amsterdam
At Modefabriek, 450 brands presented themselves in a colourful and lovingly curated ambience. With this number, the Amsterdam fashion fair is still below the pre-pandemic level. Around 100 newcomer labels used the event mainly to present or reposition themselves in the Dutch and Belgian markets. The fair did not disclose the numbers of visitors, but some brands noticed an increase compared to the previous edition. Like Pitti and Premium, however, Modefabriek is not a traditional ordering fair, so for most exhibiting brands it was still a matter of waiting to see whether the good mood would also be reflected in showroom orders.
Read more from Modefabriek:
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