Thursday, February 22, 2024

New York FW24– Key Colors and Fabrics: red, brown and lots of fluff

NYFW FW24 main image Credits: NYFW
FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


New York Fashion Week for FW24 ran from Thursday, February 9 through
Wednesday, February 14 with 50 designers participating.
Despite strong competition for viral social media time from The Super
Bowl LVIII, NYFW held its own. Arguably, the most talked about show
was Raul Lopez’s ‘metrosexual’ show for Luar.

Beyonce at Luar FW24 Credits: Luar
FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Beyoncé sat front row with mother Tina and sister Solange to watch
nephew "Julez" Smith Jr.'s runway debut. Collina Strada and Christian
Cowen both celebrated diversity and Puma transformed Grand Central
into a futuristic amusement park.

Puma FW24 set design Credits: Puma
FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


When it came to the old guard, most returned to their roots. Tommy
Hilfiger showed his collection of classic preppy looks in Grand
Central’s Oyster Bar. Thom Browne came back to NYFW with a show at
‘The Shed,’ inspired by Edgar Allen Poe’s ‘The Raven.’ As for Michael
Kors, he utilized a legendary location, the original Barney’s store in
Chelsea, Colors tended to be muted, with the exception of bright red,
and fabric trends were focused on texture and surface interest.



Lady in Red




In a week that mostly lacked bright color, saturated shades of red
were seen in many collections. In a series of looks that ranged from
tailored separates to eveningwear, it represented female power and
strength. Pantone had predicted that this particular hue would be seen
during NYFW FW24 stating that, “PANTONE 19-1558 ‘Scarlet Smile’ is a
glamorous and decadent red that captures our desire.”


Badgley Mischka

Badgley Mischka FW24/ Look 26 Credits: Badgley
Mischka FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 26: a full-length fitted red crepe coat dress with self-belt;
opera-length red leather gloves and a red satin clutch.


Negris LeBrum

Negris LeBrum FW24/ Look 7 Credits: Negris LeBrum
FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 7: a red ostrich leather two-piece suit with a one-button jacket
and straight leg pants.


Prabal Gurung

Prabal Gurung FW24/ Look 1 Credits: Prabal Gurung
FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 1: a full-length red evening coat over a red turtle-neck and a
shiny skirt with red leather long gloves, a red skullcap and point-toe
shoes.


Sandy Liang

Sandy Liang FW24/ Look 29 Credits: Sandy Liang
FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 29: a tailored red wool coat with tortoise buttons over a zip-up
jacket and mini skirt. Black round toed boots with a bow detail
completed the look.


Carolina Herrera: designer, Wes Gordon

Carolina Herrera FW24/ Look 1 Credits: Carolina
Herrera FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 1: a dress with a red mock turtle-neck top and a black satin
asymmetric skirt over black skinny pants and red patent point toe
flats.



Coffee Break




‘Latte dressing’ continues to resonate as a chic alternative to black.
Shades of brown colored a variety of garments including puffers,
leather jackets, dresses and tailored separates.


Fforme: designer, Paul Helber

Fforme FW24/ Look 24 Credits: Fforme
FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 24: a brown puffer jacket over a brown knit top and pants with a
brown knit skullcap and brown ballet flats.


Helmut Lang: designer, Peter Do

Helmut Lang FW24/ Look 18 Credits: Helmut Lang
FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 18: a two-button tailored brown blazer with matching culottes; a
brown oversized tote and brown knee boots finished the look.


Michael Kors Collection

Michael Kors FW24/ Look 41 Credits: Michael Kors
FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 41: a shiny brown leather jacket with surface effects with a
shearling collar and a matching knee-length skirt. Accessories
included brown point toe shoes, a tiny satchel and tortoiseshell
sunglasses.


Ludovic de Saint Sernin

Saint Sernin FW24/ Look 21 Credits: Saint Sernin
FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 21: a brown leather bomber jacket and a matching skirt with
silver grommets, plus brown hose and brown pumps.


Luar: designer Raul Lopez

Luar FW24/ Look 7 Credits: Luar FW24/Launchmetrics
Spotlight


Look 7: a brown wool turtle-neck dress with broad shoulders, brown
shiny boots and an oversized bronze-colored tote.



Gender Reveals




In recent seasons using classic plaid and bouclé has gone from
strength to strength, signaling as it does, the current mood for
gender fluidity. It showed up in a variety of styles with both
masculine and feminine influences.


Kobi Halperin

Halperin FW24/ Look 36 Credits: Halperin
FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 36: a charcoal wool coat over pinstripe separates that included a
jacket, pants and a bustier.


Michael Kors

Michael Kors FW24/ Look 44 Credits: Michael Kors
FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 44: a double-breasted fitted long line jacket in brown and cream
plaid and a knee-length skirt with a split; accessorized by a skinny
belt, tiny satchel and brown patent pumps.


Monse: designers, Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia

Monse FW24/ Look 4 Credits: Monse FW24/Launchmetrics
Spotlight


Look 4: a grey/brown floor length tweed coat with a brown suede
collar, over a matching vest, deep vee navy sweater and blue and white
striped shirt. Strappy sandals finished the look.


Retrofete: designer, Ohad Seroya

Retrofete FW24/ Look 1 Credits: Retrofete
FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 1: a Prince of Wales check floor-length coat over a matching
double-breasted blazer and a mini skirt. Accessories included a black
valise and pumps.


The Salting: designers, Michael Ward and Michael Smaldonem

The Salting FW24/ Look 3 Credits: The Salting
FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 3: a cropped bouclé jacket in black and white plaid with matching
drawstring-waist shorts, a white shirt and tie and black hose, socks
and black boots.


Thom Browne

Thom Browne FW24/ Look 14 Credits: Thom Browne
FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 14: a wide collared black, grey and white tweed plaid coat over
contrasting plaid layers. Accessories included a net covered hat,
black tie and clear zip-up booties.



Knit Wit




Cocooning was a big theme running through the week and designers
showed a variety of head-to-toe cozy knit looks.


Aknvas: Christian Juul Nielsen

Aknvas FW24/ Look 1 Credits: Aknvas
FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 1: a pale lavender cable knit oversized sweater embellished with
pompoms and matching pants.


Bibhu Mohapatra

Mohapatra FW24/ Look 7 Credits: Mohapatra
FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 7: a cream-colored cable-knit maxi dress with an oversized scarf.
Other accessories included an extra-wide leather belt and an
embellished green beret.


3.1 Phillip Lim

3.1 Philip Lim/ Look 24 Credits: 3.1 Philip
Lim/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 22: a space-dyed knit dress in green, blue and white with a polo
collar over matching pants.


Alejandra Alonso Rojas

Rojas FW24/ Look 13 Credits: Rojas
FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 13: a cream pointelle knit tight dress and cream leather boots.


Ulla Johnson

Ulla Johnson FW24/ Look 40 Credits: Ulla Johnson
FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 40: a maxi dress in bands of purple, ochre and cream-colored
fair-isle knit with a matching sweater. Burgundy Mary-Janes and ochre
socks finished the look.



Fur Sure




Again, the cocoon theme drove this fabric trend with many designers
showing fluffy textures for outerwear, often in winter white or blond
colorations.


Gabriela Hearst

Gabriela Hearst FW24/ Look 11 Credits: Gabriela
Hearst FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 11: a shaggy knit cream-colored coat over a matching dress and black boots.


Sally Lapointe

La Pointe FW24/ Look 4 Credits: La Pointe
FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 4: a faux fur short coat, marabou feather bolero over a sheer
knit top, short shorts, white hose and beige boots.


Puppets & Puppets: designer, Carly Mark

Puppets & Puppets FW24/ Look 3 Credits: Puppets &
Puppets FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 3: a natural colored faux fur coat over green satin pants and a
blue leather bag.


Proenza Schouler: designers, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez

Proenza Schouler FW24/ Look 12 Credits: Proenza
Schouler FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 12: a cream-colored coat in short faux fur in a midi-length with
white boots and red satchel.


Ulla Johnson

Ulla Johnson FW24/ Look 41 Credits: Ulla Johnson
FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 41: a cream-colored marabou feather coat with a shoestring tie
belt and grey suede boots.


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