Dressing©Launchmetrics/spotlight
“What goes around comes around,” is the saying, and this was certainly
one of the strongest messages of the Fall/Winter 2024 runway season.
Designers harked back to the 1920s and 1930s, and more specifically,
the garments found in a stylish woman’s boudoir, including corsets,
satin and lace underwear, slips and other sheer layers, in a color
palette that included shades of black, ochre, pale pink and nude,
peach and ivory.
With populism on the rise again in the US and in Europe, and wars on
two fronts that seem to have no endgame, it’s no mystery why
reflecting on the turbulent period between the two world wars is in
the zeitgeist.
Case in point: April 2024 will see another revival of ‘Cabaret’ on
Broadway. Set in Berlin in the early 1930s, the musical focuses on the
hedonistic nightlife at a cabaret club juxtaposed with the rise of the
Nazis. Eddie Redmayne, Gayle Rankin and the rest of the Kit Kat club
will undoubtedly be wardrobed in various states of deshabille. And the
2023 documentary, “Eldorado: Everything the Nazis Hate” used
historical footage of the storied nightclub to provide a fascinating
portrait of subversion in the face of growing fascism.
Below are some of the season’s ‘boudoir dressing’ highlights.
Sheer Layers
Using sheer layers to create a transparent look has become a major
trend in recent seasons. Fashion critics have offered a number of
reasons, including celebrity influence and the embracing of body
positivity. On the other hand, some have mused that the increasing use
of the drug Ozempic to lose weight has engendered a desire to show off
a smaller frame.
Saint Laurent FW24/ Look 27 Credits: Saint Laurent
FW24/©Launchmetrics/spotlight
The Saint Laurent designer, Antony Vaccarello, showed 48 looks, almost
all of which included transparent garments.
16Arlington FW24/ Look 25 Credits: 16Arlington
FW24/©Launchmetrics/spotlight
Marco Capaldo of 16Arlington presented several sheer dresses and
skirts. Look 25 was a standout, an ochre-colored full-length gown with
a turtleneck, cutaway shoulders and gathering at the hips.
Valentino FW24/ Look 9 Credits: Valentino
FW24/©Launchmetrics/spotlight
In what we now know was Pierpaolo Piccioli’s final collection for
Valentino, the designer also included several versions of ‘naked
dressing.’ Look 9 included a sheer black layer with a turtleneck over
black lace undergarments.
Huishan Zhang FW24/ Look 33 Credits: Huishan Zhang
FW24/©Launchmetrics/spotlight
Huishan Zang said he was inspired by ‘old Hollywood’ which was evident
in his use of satin, silk, lace and ruffles. Look 33 was a
peach-colored lace shift embellished with a diagonally placed trim.
Feathers and Fur
Erdem FW24/ Look 8 Credits: Erdem
FW24/©Launchmetrics/spotlight
Erdem Moralioglu used his FW24 collection to pay tribute to the Greek
operatic soprano, Maria Callas, and her wardrobe, both on and
off-stage. Look 8 included a marabou feather stole in shades of pink,
white and fuchsia, shown over a white bra and slip.
Michael Kors FW24/ Look 29 Credits: Michael Kors
FW24/©Launchmetrics/spotlight
Michael Kors used photos of his grandparents in the 1930s as
inspiration for his collection. Look 29 included a pale pink Mongolian
fur cocoon coat over a satin dress with Fortuny pleating.
Corsetry
In the 1930s, corsetry was literally the foundation of any look.
Dilara Findikoglu FW24/ Look 14 Credits: Dilara
Findikoglu FW24/©Launchmetrics/spotlight
Dilara Findikoglu’s FW24 collection was entitled ‘Femme Vortex’ and
focused on the idea of “divine feminine power.” For look 14, she
presented a boned lace-up front corset in a pale nude chiffon with a
paneled skirt and long pink latex gloves.
Annie's Ibiza FW24/ Look 25 Credits: Annie's Ibiza
FW24/©Launchmetrics/spotlight
Look 25 at Annie’s Ibiza, (designed by Annie Doble), was a
peach-colored strapless silk/satin corset embroidered with flowers and
matching knickers.
Lingerie
In recent seasons it has become de rigueur for designers to show
lingerie items as an integral part of a look. FW24 was no exception.
Ermanno Scervino FW24/ Look 33 Credits: Ermanno
Scervino FW24/©Launchmetrics/spotlight
Ermanno Scervino called his FW24 collection, ‘Fashion Atlas,’ which he
said was a reference to a sort of map where the cardinal points were
shapes of women’s bodies. For look 33, the designer paired a
nude-colored vintage style bra with a peach midi skirt in pressed
leather.
Saint Laurent FW24/ Look 17 Credits: Saint Laurent
FW24/©Launchmetrics/spotlight
While most of the Saint Laurent collection was rendered in sheer
fabrics, look 17 was an exception. A gold-colored satin blouse was
given suspenders to hold up chocolate brown sparkling stockings.
Leopard Print
At times, the boudoir dressing trend falls in line with the ‘mob wives
aesthetic’ Both focused on leopard as a major print.
Zimmermann FW24/ Look 3 Credits: Zimmermann
FW24/©Launchmetrics/spotlight
Nicky Zimmermann showed a collection full of soft and billowing
shapes. One such style was look 3, a diaphanous dress with a high/low
hem, matching scarf and hose, all in a classic leopard print.
Versace FW24/ Look 33 Credits: Versace
FW24/©Launchmetrics/spotlight
At Versace, look 33 was a body-conscious leotard and matching stirrup
leggings in a mix of brown leopard and a gold scroll print.
Le Smoking
Women in tuxedos may seem the opposite of ‘boudoir dressing’ but as
Yves Saint Laurent stated, “A woman wearing a suit is anything but
masculine. A strict, clean cut accentuates her femininity, her
seductiveness, her ambiguity.”
Dolce & Gabbana FW24/ Look 11 Credits: Dolce &
Gabbana FW24/©Launchmetrics/spotlight
At Dolce & Gabbana, the duo focused most of their collection on the
idea of the tuxedo, showing a variety of renditions over sexy lingerie
items, including boxy and nipped-in-the-waist shapes.
Dolce & Gabbana FW24/ Look 17 Credits: Dolce &
Gabbana FW24/©Launchmetrics/spotlight Dolce & Gabbana FW24/ Look 24 Credits: Dolce &
Gabbana FW24/©Launchmetrics/spotlight
Read more:
* The Mob Wife Aesthetic
* How to use Pantone’s 2024 color of the year: Peach
Fuzz
* Three body conscious trends from NYFW SS24: sheer
fabrics, crochet and lace
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