Golden Goose posts surge in annual revenue and profit

Golden Goose Forward store, Milan Credits: Golden Goose



Golden Goose Group net revenues of 587 million euros for FY23, grew 18 percent at constant exchange versus FY22.


Adjusted EBITDA of 200 million euros, increased 19 percent and adjusted EBIT of 149 million euros, rose 22 percent.


Commenting on the annual trading, Silvio Campara, chief executive officer, Golden Goose Group, said in a statement: “Our strong performance in 2023 – growing double digits against a challenging macroeconomic backdrop – once again demonstrates the power of our brand and the value of our people who are essential to building our long-term and sustainable vision.”


The company reported growth across all regions, driven by the development of the DTC channel. Golden Goose opened 21 new stores, with the total store network reaching 191 at the end of 2023.


The company also opened two new Forward Stores: one in Miami, the second in the U.S., and one in Paris, the second in Europe. At the end of 2023, Golden Goose had five Forward Stores globally.


The company said that the Forward Store format offers a wide range of services from repair, remake, resell to recycle, conceived to promote circularity, lengthen, and manage products’ lifecycle, giving new life to pre-owned products from any brand and reducing the environmental impact.


Golden Goose acquired the remaining 70 percent stake in one of its footwear suppliers, Sirio, following the acquisition of a minority stake of 30 percent in 2022. Together with the acquisition of the Italian fashion team, this enables Golden Goose to internalise approximately 50 percent of its annual footwear production.


The company also launched the Yatay Lab in Erba, Como, Italy, a co-action platform committed to the research and development of circular materials and products that seek to be scalable and sharable. This Lab, the company added, is an evolution of the partnership born in 2022, between Golden Goose, and Coronet Group, for the research and production of low-impact materials.


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EssilorLuxottica and Dolce&Gabbana confirm license renewal

Dolce&Gabbana Fall/Winter 2024, Ready to Wear Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight



Italian fashion house Dolce&Gabbana has announced the early renewal of their eyewear licensing agreement with eyewear manufacturer EssilorLuxottica.


The new licensing renewal will see EssilorLuxottica continuing to develop, produce and distribute worldwide prescription frames and sunglasses under the Dolce&Gabbana brand.


The existing agreement, which took effect on January 1, 2020, and was scheduled to expire on December 31, 2029, has been renewed and replaced with a new accord, lasting 16 years, effective January 1, 2024, until December 31, 2039.


Francesco Milleri, chairman and chief executive at EssilorLuxottica, said in a statement: “Dolce&Gabbana has held a special place in our hearts over two decades. Since our stories intertwined, we have created some beautiful, memorable and innovative frames together, each a ‘made in Italy’ masterpiece.


“We have cultivated a love, admiration and loyalty among the most discerning consumers, developing a deep trust and respect for each other along the way. Our early renewal signals the strong bond between our companies and the promise that luxury eyewear represents in the decades ahead.”


Alfonso Dolce, chief executive at Dolce&Gabbana, added: “EssilorLuxottica and Dolce&Gabbana have built a powerfully effective partnership over the last 19 years, both in business and creativity. Today's long-term renewal is representative of our shared confidence in the future opportunities from which both parties will benefit as we continue to work together in the years ahead.


“EssilorLuxottica's unparalleled know-how in the manufacture of eyewear is matched only by the scale and quality of its global network of retail and distribution. Dolce&Gabbana is delighted to confirm today's renewal.”


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FW24: Young talents at the MFW Fashion Hub

Via Piave 33 Credits: National Chamber of Italian Fashion


Milan Fashion Week inaugurated a new edition of its Fashion Hub on Monday, which serves as a meeting place and a training space, a forge for innovative projects and talents, open to the public and the city of Milan. The project is supported by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and International Cooperation and the Italian Trade Agency (Agenzia Ice). The venue, hosting various emerging brands, will remain open until Sunday, February 25, at Palazzo Giureconsulti.
Escvdo Credits: National Chamber of Italian Fashion


Specifically, among the projects hosted by the Fashion Hub will be Designers for the Planet, now in its eighth edition, MFW Forward, and the educational projects that will unfold in a programme of educational talks.


The Designers for the Planet project involves 8 brands that take various sustainability factors into consideration in the creation and production of their collections. The designers participating in the project were selected by a technical jury, chaired by Carlo Capasa, president of the National Chamber of Italian Fashion (CNMI). The 8 emerging brands selected for the FW24 edition of the event are: 0331, Defaïence, āim/Handmadeinitaly, Eliels, Escvdo, Gams Note, Pīferi, and Via Piave 33.


The MFW Forward project involves brands that primarily focus on research, innovation, and experimentation, blending these aspects with new trends and cultural shifts. The brands presenting their collections at this edition, who will rotate throughout the duration of the fashion week, are six: Almond Oct, Amato Daniele, DassùYAmoroso, Francesco Murano, Pairi Daeza, San Andrès Milano, Sake, Salvatore Vignola, and Victor-Hart.


The programme on Sunday, February 25 will be curated by Cittàdellarte – Fondazione Pistoletto Onlus, presenting Fashion to Reconnect, inspired by Michelangelo Pistoletto's new dynamic equilibrium of the Third Paradise and proposing clothes and fashion items as works of art that become tools to foster awareness in moving towards responsible social change.


Designers, entrepreneurs, brands, and artists reconnect with nature to create a harmonious relationship, where the selection of materials, processes, and the very perception of creation become the drivers of a virtuous transformation in the world of fashion.
Gams Note Credits: National Chamber of Italian Fashion


This article was originally published on FashionUnited.IT. Translation and edit from Italian into English: Veerle Versteeg.


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Paris Fashion Week: The FHCM announces partnership with Air France and KLM

Air France plane. Credits: Pixabay



An exclusive travel offer has been negotiated between France's governing body for fashion Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (FHCM) and the national airline Air France, offering a special fare to all professionals accredited to Paris Fashion Week Haute Couture autumn/winter 2024/2025 and men's spring/summer 2025 collections.


Notably, these events come during a period for which many professionals had expressed concern regarding the soaring prices linked to the impending Olympic Games in the city, which collides with the fashion weeks in the last fortnight of June.


To receive the offer, FHCM-accredited professionals simply need to enter a discount code when booking, which will entitle them to a 10 percent reduction on the price of tickets, excluding taxes and supplements, on Air France & KLM flights costing at least 140 euros.


This code is provided once accreditation has been validated. This offer can be applied for travel in the last fortnight of June 2024, with a minimum of one day on site during the dates of the event.


While the offer may put the minds and wallets of travelling professionals at ease, questions have been raised surrounding the environmental impact such an influx of flights into Paris could cause.


This article originally appeared on FashionUnited.FR. Translation and edit by: Rachel Douglass.


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Zalando plans to remove misleading sustainability labels

Zalando's headquarters in Berlin Credits: Zalando



According to the EU Commission, online retailer Zalando has committed to removing misleading sustainability labels and symbols from its website.


From 15 April 2024, the symbols, such as leaves or trees, will no longer appear next to the products on offer. This was announced by the Brussels authority on Thursday. The Consumer Protection Cooperation (CPC) network, which is coordinated by the European Commission, had set its sights on Zalando in 2022.


"After more than a year of intensive work on our customer experience and a close dialogue with the European Commission, we are pleased that we have now reached an agreement: Our proposals to improve the communication of sustainability-related product information to customers have been accepted and the matter has been closed, subject to the implementation of the agreed changes," Zalando said in response to an enquiry from FashionUnited.


Clear information instead of labelling




Instead of the previous labelling, the online retailer wants to provide clear information about the specific product in future, such as the percentage of recycled materials used.


In addition, the previous "sustainability page" is to be revised with the introduction of two new websites – one with further information on product standards and one with information on Zalando's sustainability-related approaches and strategies.


According to EU law, companies must provide consumers with truthful information and must not mislead them in order to influence their decisions.


The company supports a standardised application of the existing guidelines to ensure that customers are not misled by different interpretations, according to a statement from Berlin. Zalando's primary goal is to provide its customers with all the information they need to make an informed purchasing decision.


Zalando is also expected to submit a report documenting the implementation of its obligations. A network of consumer protection organisations - coordinated by the European Commission - will then assess this. If it finds deficiencies, it can impose fines.


"As a range of new/further legislation for the textile sector will be developed in the coming years, we encourage EU policy makers to create a coherent legal framework that not only boosts confidence but also the interest of consumers, while providing legal certainty for businesses," the statement said. "The outcome of our joint agreement with the European Commission is an important first step towards achieving clarity on the presentation of sustainability-related product information for our entire industry."


At Zalando, products were previously labelled with certain symbols if they met one of the company's sustainability criteria, as the company explains on its website. These previously included symbols for ecological or innovative materials, natural ingredients or items without animal testing.(DPA/FashionUnited)


This article originally appeared on FashionUnited.DE. Translation and edit by: Rachel Douglass.


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Milan Fashion Week launches anti-discrimination initiative: 'Results within a year'

Milan Fashion Week SS23 - Gucci Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight



Three Italian organisations have signed an agreement that aims to promote equality within the fashion industry. The Italian Fashion Council (Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, CNMI), nonprofit African Fashion Gate (AFG) and the Italian government's anti-discrimination agency (Ufficio Nazionale Antidiscriminazioni Razziali della Presidenza del Consiglio dei Ministri, UNAR) have agreed that more needs to be done to "detect, identify and combat" discrimination.


The initiative starts with a broad survey of the experiences of women, people of colour and other underrepresented groups in the industry, with both fashion brands and retailers to be scrutinised. During the conference on the Tuesday of Milan Fashion Week at the Fashion Hub (Sala Parlamentino) in Palazzo Giureconsulti, it was announced that fashion blogger Tamu McPherson will become the chair of Diversity and Inclusion at CNMI.


CNMI president Carlo Capasa told The Associated Press that he hopes to share results from the initiative within a year. "I don't think an association like ours can solve the [discrimination] problem, or that it would be very easy to solve it. I think we can try to make a small contribution," Capasa said, adding that the role of the government is crucial.


Capasa revealed that the CNMI has previously made an attempt to combat discrimination in the fashion industry, but that establishing figures was hampered by privacy restrictions, which he hopes to circumvent with the new research.


The Italian fashion industry has been under pressure since the July 2020 Black Lives Matters movement, due to the shortage of people of colour in leadership positions.


This article originally appeared on FashionUnited.NL. Translation and edit by: Rachel Douglass.


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Calida Group posts 4.6 percent drop in 2023 sales

Calida store Credits: Calida Group



Calida Group sales in 2023 were 304.4 million Swiss francs, down 4.6 percent from a year earlier, or down 1.7 percent when adjusted for currency effects.


Calida brand's share of group sales was 157.7 million Swiss francs, an increase of 3.8 percent adjusted for currency effects or 1.8 percent in CHF, while against the brand’s pre-pandemic performance, sales grew by 22 percent.


Aubade brand sales declined 4 percent or 7.1 percent in CHF to 70.9 million euros and increased over 25 percent compared to 2019.


"The Calida Group achieved a solid operating result in a very difficult environment, with sales slightly lower compared to the previous year. The strategic realignment focusing on our profitable core brands will support long-term growth for a thriving Calida Group," said Felix Sulzberger, executive chairman of the company in a statement.


Calida Group posts loss in 2023




Lafuma Mobilier sales declined 23.2 percent or 26 percent in CHF in 2023, to 48.9 million euros but increased 18 percent against 2019. Sales at US lingerie brand Cosabella were 1.8 percent lower, at 25.1 million dollars.


Adjusted for currency effects, operating profit declined to 12.2 million Swiss francs in 2023, and EBIT margin dropped to 4 percent. Adjusted net profit also declined to 7 million Swiss francs.


The loss from discontinued operations (Erlich Textil) was 21.7 million Swiss francs, while the total corporate loss amounted to 66.5 million Swiss francs.


The company’s board of directors will propose a dividend of 0.60 Swiss francs per share at the annual general meeting (AGM) on April 5, 2024.


Calida Group announces changes to its board of directors




The company also announced that Stefan Portmann, after eight years of service, and Laurence Bourdon-Tracol, after two years of service, will not be standing for re-election at the upcoming AGM.


The board proposes Corinna Werkle for election as a new member. With over 35 years of management experience in international clothing companies in Europe, America and Asia, the company said, she brings new impulses to the Calida Group.


The company added that after 25 years with the group, most recently as COO, Daniel Gemperle will retire in April 2024 and Hanna Huber, who joined as CIDO in 2023, has decided to pursue a new career opportunity outside the company.


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LVMH launches media company, 22 Montaigne Entertainment

LVMH launches media company 22 Montaigne Credits: LVMH



LVMH is launching 22 Montaigne Entertainment, a platform for developing film, TV, and audio productions across its luxury brand portfolio. The name is derived from the company’s Paris headquarters. Partnering with Superconnector Studios, a company based in California, LVMH aims to co-develop and co-produce entertainment properties that highlight the narratives of its portfolio brands like Louis Vuitton, Dior, and Bulgari.


The news was first reported by Deadline, who stated the venture taps into the untapped storytelling potential of brands with centuries-old legacies, bridging the worlds of luxury and entertainment. Anish Melwani, LVMH North America chief told Deadline the platform would serve as a vehicle to tell the stories of the various Maisons through premium entertainment that enrich the customer experience.


The new entertainment company aligns with the longstanding intersection of high-end fashion and Hollywood, aiming to leverage the cultural significance of LVMH brands in the entertainment landscape. Melwani also underscored the strategic evolution of LVMH's approach, facilitating collaborations that resonate with each Maison's heritage and values while opening avenues for compelling storytelling by partnering with seasoned entertainment professionals.


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The world's largest anti-fur campaign calls on Max Mara to cut out fur

Humane Society International and Fur Free Alliance team up on Max Mara campaign to ban fur. Credits: Humane Society International/Fur Free Alliance.



At the start of fashion week in Milan and ahead of the upcoming fashion week in Paris, the animal welfare organisations Humane Society International and USA as well as the Fur Free Alliance, which together represent organisations in more than 35 countries, have joined forces. Their aim: to persuade the Max Mara Fashion Group to abandon fur in the future.


The luxury group was chosen because it is one of the last major fur users, selling products with fox fur, raccoon fur and mink from China and Finland in its more than 2,500 shops in 105 countries (227 of which are in the EU).


Max Mara continues to adhere to fur, while major fashion houses such as Dolce & Gabbana, Saint Laurent, Valentino, Prada, Gucci, Versace, Alexander McQueen, Balenciaga and Jimmy Choo plus pioneers such as Hugo Boss, Armani, Tommy Hilfiger, Stella McCartney and Vivienne Westwood have long since joined the fur-free movement.


Max Mara continues to hold on to fur




"Max Mara is one of the last major fashion brands still supporting the cruel fur trade. They stand alone in a world where most people think that using fur is simply wrong. The evidence is clear: fur is cruel to animals, bad for the environment and a risk to our health. It's time for Max Mara to stop using fur and set an example for compassionate fashion by going fur-free," said Elise Allart, corporate engagement director of Humane Society International/Europe, in a press release.


Around 10 million foxes, martens, minks and chinchillas are killed on EU fur farms every year, although such processes have already been banned in 15 Member States (Austria, Belgium, Croatia, Estonia, France, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, the Netherlands, Slovakia and Slovenia).


Five other European countries - Bosnia and Herzegovina, Norway, UK, North Macedonia and Serbia - have also banned them, while Switzerland and Germany have enacted strict animal welfare regulations that have effectively ended fur farming. Tens of millions of animals suffer and die every year in the global fur trade.


At the time of publication, Max Mara did not respond to a request from FashionUnited for comment.

Read more:



* BFC releases provisional fur-free schedule for LFW






* Activists slam conditions at Europe's fur farms






* Italy vote to ban fur farming and shut down mink farms






At the time of publication, Max Mara did not respond to FashionUnited's request for comment.


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LFW AW24: All-aboard SRVC’s London commute

SRVC's Ricky Wesley Harriott Credits: SRVC



InterviewA standout moment from this season’s London Fashion Week had to be attending a fashion show on an iconic red London double-decker bus to see SRVC present its autumn/winter 2024 collection inspired by the morning commute on return from a tropical holiday.


SRVC (pronounced service) was founded in 2021 by designer Ricky Wesley Harriott to address the needs of the modern woman by exploring innovation and functionality with a “hyper-futuristic edge”.


For its autumn/winter 2024 ‘Human Resources’ showcase, SRVC turned London’s mundane morning commute into a fashion show, with models wearing body-hugging looks with cinched-waist and statement shoulders weaving their way up and down the narrow staircases of three Transport for London (TfL) buses parked outside of Bloomsbury’s Stewart House.


SRVC AW24 Collection Credits: SRVC



On the inspiration behind the catwalk location, creative director Ricky Wesley Harriott said: “This collection and all its themes are so very rooted in my lifelong relationship with London and the incredible that command this city.


“We really wanted to allow you to see this collection in the way we encounter clothes every day. In passing, in motion, in real life.”


SRVC AW24 Collection Credits: SRVC



The collection made a statement, blurring the line between masculinity and femininity, with tailored suits cut to boxy proportions with cut-out detailing to the hips and trouser hems sporting shirt collar-inspired details alongside pinstripe shirts worn as dresses and as miniskirts skirts. There were also woollen two-piece sets, featuring jackets with cinched waists, commanding shoulders, and off-centre buttons, and poplin button-up dresses and shirts with cut-out accents at the chest and statement sleeves with a perpetual rolled-up appearance.


There was also a day-to-night bus feel, with lace body-hugging jumpsuits layered underneath provocatively draped dresses and satin-like two-pieces with cut-out detailing, and knitted denim skirts and backless maxi dresses with thigh-high slits.


SRVC AW24 Collection Credits: SRVC



SRVC’s Ricky Wesley Harriott on rethinking womenswear




Before LFW, creative director Ricky Wesley Harriott, previously a designer at Vetements, spoke to FashionUnited about how SRVC is rethinking womenswear, the inspiration behind the AW24 collection, as well as the importance of sustainability, diversity, and inclusivity.


What inspired you to launch SRVC?




When we came together, we understood that we wanted to address diversity, empowerment and visibility for different kinds of women at different stages of their lives. We as a team feel incredibly passionate about giving space and being of service to women who look to fashion to help armour themselves through life and its many societal expectations and pressures.


How would you describe your brand’s aesthetic?




The brand very much aims to address the needs of a wardrobe. We look at things that we all recognise and amplify them with twists and details that feel of servitude to the wearer. We often incorporate elements that allow self-styling as it’s really important to us that the client feels they can make the pieces truly theirs. Our relationship with how the client feels is a really big priority so we really enjoy finding ways to make our garments purposefully utilitarian.


SRVC AW24 Collection Credits: SRVC



What was the starting point and inspiration for the autumn/winter 2024 collection?




The last collection depicted the idea of a dystopian resort and was focused on our digital bad habits even when we are supposed to be on vacation. For this collection, I wanted to address what happens after the holiday. You go back to work. I have always spent a lot of time observing and being inspired by things and people I see on my morning commute, and I began to document this with a lot more intent.


I found a fascination in how we as people armour ourselves at the top of the day to face society, work, responsibility, and life. The source of this collection is really human and honest but reworking it in the context of SRVC was exciting and playful.


How do you implement sustainability in your designs?




At SRVC all of our denim is actually repurposed. We source vintage and second-hand denim and cut our shapes from this. It’s a really lovely process because each piece is slightly different. I love that nostalgic feeling of your favourite worn denim against our shapes.


SRVC AW24 Collection Credits: SRVC



Why is it important for SRVC to be part of London Fashion Week?




For me as a Londoner, it feels like such a privilege to be able to share SRVC with London Fashion Week. I think fashion in London always has such heart and intention. Designers here really tell stories and deliver collections that resonate beyond just clothing. London is a bold and fearless fashion capital and I love being a part of that.


You had a diverse and inclusive cast on the catwalk – why was that important to you?




Diversity is so important to us. The world is full of different kinds of people representing different points of view, I genuinely wouldn’t have it any other way.


As a designer one of my main focuses is for women to be able to see themselves in what I am proposing so having a diverse cast is truly non-negotiable for me.


SRVC AW24 Collection Credits: SRVC



What’s next for SRVC?




After our show, we regroup and begin production on the pieces for our stores, but I get to sit and think about the next part of the story. I have some really great ideas that I want to explore, but I am excited to move forward and continue building our narrative as a brand.


I also really want to work more closely with our growing community. We have a pool of women who have taken SRVC to heart and the more I see our clients in our clothes, the bigger need I feel to work with them in shaping what this brand truly represents.


What are the biggest challenges facing your business?




I think a lot of small independent brands are expected to function at the same level as bigger houses and that’s a really slippery slope. I think that expectation can be quite daunting and is not always sustainable for young designers mentally and financially.


I think we need to reset our expectations and allow brands to sustainably grow their businesses in ways that really reflect the stage of their business.


SRVC AW24 Collection Credits: SRVC



If you could be the creative helm of any luxury house, which would you choose?




I of course have houses I feel that I would thrive in taking on, but honestly, my work with SRVC is my focus, I am at the helm of this house, and I want to make it a house that really means something to people.


If you weren't a fashion designer - what would you be?




Asleep.


Who in the fashion industry inspires you?




Martine Rose, I love her work so deeply. Her references and her perspectives, I recognise a lot of where she is coming from, and it means the world to have a designer who creates exquisite clothing that I personally both identify with and feel great in. She is masterful at creating community and I think that is a beautiful thing.


SRVC AW24 Collection Credits: SRVC



SRVC AW24 Collection Credits: SRVC



SRVC AW24 Collection Credits: SRVC


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New York FW24– Key Colors and Fabrics: red, brown and lots of fluff

NYFW FW24 main image Credits: NYFW
FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


New York Fashion Week for FW24 ran from Thursday, February 9 through
Wednesday, February 14 with 50 designers participating.
Despite strong competition for viral social media time from The Super
Bowl LVIII, NYFW held its own. Arguably, the most talked about show
was Raul Lopez’s ‘metrosexual’ show for Luar.

Beyonce at Luar FW24 Credits: Luar
FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Beyoncé sat front row with mother Tina and sister Solange to watch
nephew "Julez" Smith Jr.'s runway debut. Collina Strada and Christian
Cowen both celebrated diversity and Puma transformed Grand Central
into a futuristic amusement park.

Puma FW24 set design Credits: Puma
FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


When it came to the old guard, most returned to their roots. Tommy
Hilfiger showed his collection of classic preppy looks in Grand
Central’s Oyster Bar. Thom Browne came back to NYFW with a show at
‘The Shed,’ inspired by Edgar Allen Poe’s ‘The Raven.’ As for Michael
Kors, he utilized a legendary location, the original Barney’s store in
Chelsea, Colors tended to be muted, with the exception of bright red,
and fabric trends were focused on texture and surface interest.



Lady in Red




In a week that mostly lacked bright color, saturated shades of red
were seen in many collections. In a series of looks that ranged from
tailored separates to eveningwear, it represented female power and
strength. Pantone had predicted that this particular hue would be seen
during NYFW FW24 stating that, “PANTONE 19-1558 ‘Scarlet Smile’ is a
glamorous and decadent red that captures our desire.”


Badgley Mischka

Badgley Mischka FW24/ Look 26 Credits: Badgley
Mischka FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 26: a full-length fitted red crepe coat dress with self-belt;
opera-length red leather gloves and a red satin clutch.


Negris LeBrum

Negris LeBrum FW24/ Look 7 Credits: Negris LeBrum
FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 7: a red ostrich leather two-piece suit with a one-button jacket
and straight leg pants.


Prabal Gurung

Prabal Gurung FW24/ Look 1 Credits: Prabal Gurung
FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 1: a full-length red evening coat over a red turtle-neck and a
shiny skirt with red leather long gloves, a red skullcap and point-toe
shoes.


Sandy Liang

Sandy Liang FW24/ Look 29 Credits: Sandy Liang
FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 29: a tailored red wool coat with tortoise buttons over a zip-up
jacket and mini skirt. Black round toed boots with a bow detail
completed the look.


Carolina Herrera: designer, Wes Gordon

Carolina Herrera FW24/ Look 1 Credits: Carolina
Herrera FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 1: a dress with a red mock turtle-neck top and a black satin
asymmetric skirt over black skinny pants and red patent point toe
flats.



Coffee Break




‘Latte dressing’ continues to resonate as a chic alternative to black.
Shades of brown colored a variety of garments including puffers,
leather jackets, dresses and tailored separates.


Fforme: designer, Paul Helber

Fforme FW24/ Look 24 Credits: Fforme
FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 24: a brown puffer jacket over a brown knit top and pants with a
brown knit skullcap and brown ballet flats.


Helmut Lang: designer, Peter Do

Helmut Lang FW24/ Look 18 Credits: Helmut Lang
FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 18: a two-button tailored brown blazer with matching culottes; a
brown oversized tote and brown knee boots finished the look.


Michael Kors Collection

Michael Kors FW24/ Look 41 Credits: Michael Kors
FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 41: a shiny brown leather jacket with surface effects with a
shearling collar and a matching knee-length skirt. Accessories
included brown point toe shoes, a tiny satchel and tortoiseshell
sunglasses.


Ludovic de Saint Sernin

Saint Sernin FW24/ Look 21 Credits: Saint Sernin
FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 21: a brown leather bomber jacket and a matching skirt with
silver grommets, plus brown hose and brown pumps.


Luar: designer Raul Lopez

Luar FW24/ Look 7 Credits: Luar FW24/Launchmetrics
Spotlight


Look 7: a brown wool turtle-neck dress with broad shoulders, brown
shiny boots and an oversized bronze-colored tote.



Gender Reveals




In recent seasons using classic plaid and bouclé has gone from
strength to strength, signaling as it does, the current mood for
gender fluidity. It showed up in a variety of styles with both
masculine and feminine influences.


Kobi Halperin

Halperin FW24/ Look 36 Credits: Halperin
FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 36: a charcoal wool coat over pinstripe separates that included a
jacket, pants and a bustier.


Michael Kors

Michael Kors FW24/ Look 44 Credits: Michael Kors
FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 44: a double-breasted fitted long line jacket in brown and cream
plaid and a knee-length skirt with a split; accessorized by a skinny
belt, tiny satchel and brown patent pumps.


Monse: designers, Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia

Monse FW24/ Look 4 Credits: Monse FW24/Launchmetrics
Spotlight


Look 4: a grey/brown floor length tweed coat with a brown suede
collar, over a matching vest, deep vee navy sweater and blue and white
striped shirt. Strappy sandals finished the look.


Retrofete: designer, Ohad Seroya

Retrofete FW24/ Look 1 Credits: Retrofete
FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 1: a Prince of Wales check floor-length coat over a matching
double-breasted blazer and a mini skirt. Accessories included a black
valise and pumps.


The Salting: designers, Michael Ward and Michael Smaldonem

The Salting FW24/ Look 3 Credits: The Salting
FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 3: a cropped bouclé jacket in black and white plaid with matching
drawstring-waist shorts, a white shirt and tie and black hose, socks
and black boots.


Thom Browne

Thom Browne FW24/ Look 14 Credits: Thom Browne
FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 14: a wide collared black, grey and white tweed plaid coat over
contrasting plaid layers. Accessories included a net covered hat,
black tie and clear zip-up booties.



Knit Wit




Cocooning was a big theme running through the week and designers
showed a variety of head-to-toe cozy knit looks.


Aknvas: Christian Juul Nielsen

Aknvas FW24/ Look 1 Credits: Aknvas
FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 1: a pale lavender cable knit oversized sweater embellished with
pompoms and matching pants.


Bibhu Mohapatra

Mohapatra FW24/ Look 7 Credits: Mohapatra
FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 7: a cream-colored cable-knit maxi dress with an oversized scarf.
Other accessories included an extra-wide leather belt and an
embellished green beret.


3.1 Phillip Lim

3.1 Philip Lim/ Look 24 Credits: 3.1 Philip
Lim/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 22: a space-dyed knit dress in green, blue and white with a polo
collar over matching pants.


Alejandra Alonso Rojas

Rojas FW24/ Look 13 Credits: Rojas
FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 13: a cream pointelle knit tight dress and cream leather boots.


Ulla Johnson

Ulla Johnson FW24/ Look 40 Credits: Ulla Johnson
FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 40: a maxi dress in bands of purple, ochre and cream-colored
fair-isle knit with a matching sweater. Burgundy Mary-Janes and ochre
socks finished the look.



Fur Sure




Again, the cocoon theme drove this fabric trend with many designers
showing fluffy textures for outerwear, often in winter white or blond
colorations.


Gabriela Hearst

Gabriela Hearst FW24/ Look 11 Credits: Gabriela
Hearst FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 11: a shaggy knit cream-colored coat over a matching dress and black boots.


Sally Lapointe

La Pointe FW24/ Look 4 Credits: La Pointe
FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 4: a faux fur short coat, marabou feather bolero over a sheer
knit top, short shorts, white hose and beige boots.


Puppets & Puppets: designer, Carly Mark

Puppets & Puppets FW24/ Look 3 Credits: Puppets &
Puppets FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 3: a natural colored faux fur coat over green satin pants and a
blue leather bag.


Proenza Schouler: designers, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez

Proenza Schouler FW24/ Look 12 Credits: Proenza
Schouler FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 12: a cream-colored coat in short faux fur in a midi-length with
white boots and red satchel.


Ulla Johnson

Ulla Johnson FW24/ Look 41 Credits: Ulla Johnson
FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 41: a cream-colored marabou feather coat with a shoestring tie
belt and grey suede boots.


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Lanvin Group manages to achieve marginal sales growth

Lanvin flagship in New York Credits: Lanvin



Lanvin Group reported revenues of 426 million euros, a 1 percent increase versus 2022.


Commenting on the company’s performance, Eric Chan, CEO of Lanvin Group, said: "2023 was a year full of macroeconomic headwinds and global challenges. A softening second half saw the luxury fashion industry in a position it has not been in, in quite some time. Therefore, I am pleased to report that Lanvin Group maintained growth for the year."


Review of Lanvin Group’s results




The group reduced its store-base by 12 stores during the year and reported flat DTC sales growth on a like-for-like basis. St. John and Sergio Rossi posted store like-for-like growth of 13 percent and 6 percent, respectively.


While Lanvin brand’s first half revenue decreased by 11 percent, the brand ended the year down 7 percent. St. John grew its DTC channel by 7 percent in 2023 and Caruso achieved 30 percent growth in global revenue.


The company saw North America grow slightly and EMEA decreased slightly. In Asia, despite a slow start to the year in China in the first half, Greater China posted 8 percent growth and overall, the APAC region grew by 8 percent.


Lanvin’s digital revenue rose 3 percent with St. John grew 14 percent and Sergio Rossi by 5 percent. Lanvin and Wolford remained flat for the year.


Lanvin expects regional markets to grow in 2024




The Group anticipates that while continued softness in the overall global market will impact the business, regional economies will fare better and present opportunities for growth.


Furthermore, the company said that the APAC region shows opportunities for market share gains.


Planned marketing initiatives and product launches are expected to drive sales in 2024.


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Inside the technology of Beyoncé's new haircare brand Cécred

Cécred haircare brand from Beyoncé Credits: Cécred



Beauty


Grammy-winning singer Beyoncé Knowles-Carter has launched a new haircare brand, which draws inspiration from hair rituals from global cultures and features patent-pending technology and fermentation for visible strength, moisture, and shine for textured hair.


Called ‘Cécred,’ the haircare line has been years in the making and aims to deliver “what hair craves,” with rich conditioners and fortifying protein formulas featuring an array of butters, oils, honey, and fermented rice water to strengthen weak, damaged, or highly manipulated hair.


Commenting on her launch into hair, Beyoncé Knowles-Carter, founder and chairwoman of Cécred, said in a statement: "The journey of creating Cécred has taken years, and I'm so proud to finally reveal what we've been working on. As a Black founder, it was important to me to concentrate on where I saw the greatest need for healthy haircare and to place scientific innovation and product performance above all else. We started by prioritising the needs of textured hair like mine, along with other types and textures that need more moisture and strength.


“My entire life and career, I've worn my hair in so many different ways: natural, flat-ironed, braids, coloured, weaves, wigs. I want everyone to have the freedom to express their hair in ways that make them feel good, so I began by creating the essentials for hair and scalp health. My vision is to be an inclusive force of excellence in the haircare industry while celebrating hair rituals across global cultures and helping dispel hair myths and misconceptions on all sides."


Cécred haircare brand from Beyoncé Credits: Cécred



New haircare brand Cécred launches with patent-pending keratin recovery technology




Developed from her own experiences, Cécred launches with an eight-piece Foundation collection designed to cleanse, condition, and visibly repair hair. Products include shampoos and conditioners, a treatment mask, a hair oil, and a ritual treatment featuring patent-pending technologies, like its proprietary patent-pending Bioactive Keratin Ferment, made from wool-derived keratin, honey, and lactobacillus ferment.


Cécred explains that its formulas are enhanced by the ancient process of fermentation and the keratin proteins are small enough to penetrate deep into the cortex of each strand, closely matching and replacing depleted proteins to visibly repair and strengthen weak or damaged hair. They are also formulated without silicones, which mask damage with an artificial coating, and deliver moisture and visible strength for a healthy foundation.


The new haircare brand has also conducted extensive clinical, salon, and lab testing to ensure that its range of hair solutions is beneficial for hair textures from straight to coily and hair states, including virgin, colour-treated, chemically processed, and heat-styled, which need extra moisture and strength.


Cécred haircare brand from Beyoncé Credits: Cécred



Highlights of the debut products include a clarifying shampoo and scalp scrub, which combines exfoliants, fermented purple willow bark, and tea tree oil to remove buildup and residue from hair and scalp for a deep clean, while the reconstructed treatment mask is described as “hair repair in a jar” as it clinically tested to visibly reduce damage, increase strength, and improve shine after one use.


Other products include a moisture-sealing lotion, a nourishing hair oil, and a fermented rice and rose protein ritual, a two-step treatment to help strengthen hair. Prices range from 25 to 42 pounds / 20 to 52 US dollars and are available on the brand’s website, cecred.com.


In addition, Cécred has set up a philanthropic arm in partnership with BeyGood, Beyoncé’s charity foundation, to invest in the stylist community. The brand plans to donate 500,000 US dollars to fund cosmetology school scholarships and salon business grants.


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EssilorLuxottica and Michael Kors renew licensing partnership for a minimum 5 years

EssilorLuxottica (ESLOF.PK) and Michael Kors
Wednesday said they have renewed their licensing partnership to
develop and sell frames and sunglasses under the Michael Kors brand.


The renewal, which is for a period of 5 years with an option for
5-year extension, will be effective from January 1, 2025, when the
current agreement expires.


The early renewal, coming almost a year before the expiration of the
current agreement, is a testament to the strong confidence and
collaboration between the two companies since 2015, EssilorLuxottica
said in a statement.(DPA)


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The UK's best cities for sustainable shopping revealed

Black Tulip unveils UK's best sustainable shopping cities Credits: Black Tulip



The fast-fashion sector churns out over 92 million tonnes of textile waste annually, which at the very least poses significant environmental threats. However, recent studies indicate a shifting consumer mindset in the UK, with more than half expressing a desire for eco-friendly shopping in 2024.


Searches for slow fashion have surged by 130 percent since January 2023, signaling a growing inclination toward conscious consumption. Black Tulip, an environmentally conscious footwear brand, conducted research to identify UK cities embracing slow fashion principles.


Bristol emerged as a frontrunner with the highest number of certified B-Corp companies per capita. Leicester followed closely, excelling in textile recycling infrastructure and volume. Surprisingly, London, despite its low density of fast-fashion retailers, ranked lower due to limited clothing and textile recycling facilities and charity shops.


The top 10 cities leading the slow fashion movement include Bristol, Leicester, Nottingham, Brighton, London, Leeds, Liverpool, Southampton, Edinburgh, and Glasgow. According tot the data from Black Tulip these cities prioritise sustainable shopping habits, emphasising quality over seasonal trends.


About Black Tulip




Black Tulip champions slow fashion as a sustainable alternative to fast fashion's throwaway culture. Founder Sonam Joshan said the importance of investing in timeless pieces transcends fleeting trends. By embracing slow fashion, consumers can reduce their environmental footprint, support fair labour practices, and cherish garments crafted with care and ethical sourcing.


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