IM Milan designer of the year: Retbierieka Kong’s winning collection

In Pictures


Retbierieka Kong, CLASS23 Credits: Courtesy of Istituto Marangoni Milan via press agency Ploom PR.



During Istituto Marangoni Milan’s fashion show that featured its best designers of the past academic year in September, graduating student Retbierieka Kong was named IM Milan’s best designer of the year.


Kong competed against nine fellow emerging designers studying at the Italian institution. Each has their own background, unique vision and inspirations.


The ten designers presented their individual looks in a collective fashion show entitled Estrangement during Milan Fashion Week, which evoked themes of isolation and individuals trying to navigate a society that becomes more (dis)connected every day.


In this article, FashionUnited highlights the collection of IM Milan’s top designer of the academic year 2022/2023, Retbierieka Kong.


The young creative created a collection entitled ‘La Satrey’, which translates into English (from Khmer) to The Women. It focuses on the role of women as artists and designers and draws inspiration from the work of these female artists, particularly when it comes to materials and the principles of contemporary minimalism, highlighting the significance of vintage items and recyclability.


View her full collection below


Retbierieka Kong, CLASS23. Credits: Courtesy of Istituto Marangoni Milan via press agency Ploom PR.



Retbierieka Kong, CLASS23. Credits: Courtesy of Istituto Marangoni Milan via press agency Ploom PR.



Retbierieka Kong, CLASS23. Credits: Courtesy of Istituto Marangoni Milan via press agency Ploom PR.



Retbierieka Kong, CLASS23. Credits: Courtesy of Istituto Marangoni Milan via press agency Ploom PR.



Retbierieka Kong, CLASS23. Credits: Courtesy of Istituto Marangoni Milan via press agency Ploom PR.

ALSO READDiscover the looks created by all of IM Milan's top designers below: Istituto Marangoni Milan presents top fashion students, names designer of the year


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Tesco ups FY profit outlook, but Home and Clothing sales fall in H1

Tesco sign Credits: Tesco, Facebook



British supermarket giant Tesco has upped its full-year profit guidance after reporting a robust first half of the year, despite sales at its Home and Clothing division declining.


The retailer reported a 8.9 percent increase in group revenue in the six months to August 26, reaching 30.7 billion pounds.


That came as its profit surged to 929 million pounds from 252 million pounds.


In its home UK market, like-for-like sales rose by 8.7 percent in the first half, which was driven by a “strong performance across all formats and channels”.


However, things were looking less bright at its Home and Clothing department - which comprises around 7 percent of UK sales - where sales declined 4.8 percent.


It said that drop was primarily linked to the impact of strategic ranging decisions, including exiting and reducing low returning categories such as large electricals and adult footwear.


Excluding those factors, sales were broadly flat, the retailer said.


“We outperformed the rest of the market in Clothing across the half and further improved our value perception against our key competitors,” it added.


Based on its first-half results, Tesco has raised its full-year adjusted operating profit to between 2.6 billion pounds and 2.7 billion pounds.


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Uniform Standard to launch pop-up sneaker showroom

Uniform Standard sneakers Credits: Uniform Standard



Uniform Standard, the East London-based minimalist premium leather sneaker brand, is opening its first pop-up showroom, where customers can discover the brand and meet the co-founders.


The phygital pop-up sneaker showroom will be located at No.2 Marshall Street, Soho in London, and will be open for eight weeks from October 23 as the brand looks to appeal to a wider audience.


It will showcase Uniform Standard’s entire Sneaker Series, allowing customers to try on their perfect size. They will also be able to purchase sneakers, which will be delivered directly to their home or workplace.


The pop-up will also present its full collection of men’s and women’s apparel and accessories and a limited-edition collection of sneaker colours exclusive to Marshall Street.


The design of the showroom will reflect the brand’s pared-back aesthetic with custom-made modular furniture fabricated from recyclable materials that are designed to be reused and repurposed.


Launched in 2018, Uniform Standard is known for its minimalist sneakers, made in limited numbers, which are designed in London and handcrafted in Portugal using premium full-grain Italian leathers certified by the Leather Working Group.


Uniform Standard sneakers Credits: Uniform Standard


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Superdry to accelerate growth in India with Reliance Brands

Superdry showroom in Berlin Credits: Superdry



British retailer Superdry has signed an IP joint venture agreement with India’s Reliance Brands Holding UK (RBUK) for the sale of its South Asia intellectual property assets, including the Superdry brand and related trademarks in India, Sri Lanka, and Bangladesh.


In a statement, struggling Superdry said that RBUK, which is held by Reliance Retail Ventures Limited (RRVL) through its subsidiary Reliance Brands Limited (RBL), has been its exclusive franchise partner in India since 2012.


The new joint venture will be 76 percent owned by RBUK and 24 percent by Superdry.


Superdry to boost India business




The sale of the South Asian IP will raise 40 million pounds, which is estimated to result in Superdry receiving gross cash proceeds of 30.4 million pounds.


RBL is the premium retail arm of RRVL and operates more than 18,000 stores across India from over 50 different luxury fashion brands. It has a presence in 7,000 towns and a total shopping area of more than 65 million square feet.


Following the completion of the transaction, Reliance Retail will continue to oversee brand operations in India, Sri Lanka, and Bangladesh, added Superdry.


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Naked demos and plucked goats: A fashion month of protests, a rundown of all the outcry

Extinction Rebellion protesters outside NYFW SS24 event. Credits: Extinction Rebellion.



Fashion and clothing has always been a medium of protest. For decades, both designers and consumers have used their dress sense to determine what message they want to portray to the outside world. This has also rang true on the runway, where brands have leveraged the global platform to make political or societal statements on a current issue in the hope of both spreading their message and appealing to consumers that share such a value.


Now, however, it appears that criticism is beginning to fall inwards, as fashion month increasingly becomes a stage for organisations that actively disapprove of the industry’s current operations. From New York to Paris, some of the most acclaimed runways of the SS24 season were the unsuspecting hosts of protesters looking to spotlight their own campaigns.


Stage intruders and unplanned demonstrations are nothing new. For SS20, Gucci was subject to a subtle protest from model Ayesha Tan Jones, who held up the palms of her hands on which the words “mental health is not fashion” were scrawled – a critique on the outfit she sported that resembled a straitjacket. Earlier, during the SS14 season, two topless women from the Ukrainian feminist group ‘Femen’ stormed the stage at Nina Ricci with “models don’t go to brothels” painted across their bodies.


While many of these previous protests have revolved around societal issues, this season, and a number of seasons prior, more attention has been put on the climate crisis, which has become a focal point for fashion critics as the industry’s turbulent relationship with the environment plunges deeper into the limelight. In fact, those that were centred around society – such as Tommy Cash’s appearance at Diesel’s SS24 Milan Fashion Week show as a “homeless” person, which he claimed was a critique of the “widespread cynicism surrounding trends like poverty chic” – have often fallen flat, or even become the centre of judgement themselves due to their sometimes tone deaf approach. It was instead the environmentalists that had reverted to the shock factor to get their point across, garnering the attention they much needed.


An opportunity for fashion weeks to differentiate themselves




Gumtree protesting outside of LFW SS24. Credits: Gumtree.



British advertisement agency Gumtree, for example, staged a naked protest ahead of London Fashion Week SS24, with protesters donning placards denouncing the overconsumption of clothes – one stating: “I’d rather be naked than buy new”. In a release, the company’s CEO, Hugh Hurley, said: “We’re calling on Britain’s top fashion houses to recognise their impact and influence on our consumption habits. The UK fashion industry has the power to change our toxic relationship with textile waste – and now is the time to act.”


Nudity seemed to be a running theme, too. Unclothed individuals also caused a stir at The Blonds’ New York Fashion Week show, on this occasion representing the infamous environmentalist group Extinction Rebellion, who have already been known for making raucous fashion week statements in the past. While their previous protest at London Fashion Week involved pouring fake oil on the streets outside The Strand in a call for the event to cut ties with “top plastic polluter” Coca Cola, the latest theatrics targeted fashion as a whole, aligning with one of the group’s motos ‘No Fashion on a Dead Planet’.


Protesters were draped in banners reading “tell the naked truth about the climate crisis”, in what was an attempt to “highlight human vulnerability in the face of climate collapse”, further demanding an end to the use of fossil fuels. In the eyes of those linked to the movement, such protests actually provide a potential opportunity for the fashion week. In a statement, activist Laura Cole said: “NYFW has long grappled with matching the prominence of its European counterparts, falling short each year. Why not pivot to spotlighting the intersection of climate and fashion? By doing so, it could rise as the most forward-thinking event globally. It’s high time designers and executives reflect deeply on their roles within the environmental and human supply chain, striving to minimise harm.”


Extinction Rebellion protesters outside NYFW SS24 event. Credits: Extinction Rebellion.



The sense of civil disobedience didn’t stop here, however. As always, PETA – or the People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals – made itself known, persisting in its notoriously disruptive status at every major fashion city this season, and reiterating its mission of convincing designers to cut animal products from their supply chains. Protesters descended onto the runways of Michael Kors, Coach, Burberry, Hermès and even Sabato De Sarno’s Gucci debut, among others, proving that not even the most prestigious of brands can bypass such public disparagement. The animal rights organisation’s typically shocking, yet distinctive approach could also be seen outside of the British Fashion Council’s NewGen Show Space, where supporters reenacted the alleged torture of goats used for cashmere production.


Labour and animal rights are trending topics




When asked by FashionUnited why fashion weeks were increasingly becoming a platform to stage such outrage, vice president of corporate projects, Yvonne Taylor, said: “PETA’s campaigns challenge people to question the acceptability of using any living, feeling being’s skin or hair for fashion. Fashion shows are where designers and other influential people from the industry gather, so they’re the perfect place to stage eye-catching actions which inform people of the cruelty inherent in the production of animal-derived fabrics. We stage our actions with the aim of educating designers and consumers, and empowering them to make kinder, more informed decisions.”


While PETA’s past statements have often been met with success, seeing a slew of notable brands and fashion houses turn away from animal-based materials towards alternatives, it is yet to be seen if their most recent acts will convince those targeted to do the same. Taylor, who noted that events were selected based on the quantity of eyes that could potentially view the action, was optimistic about this season’s efforts, adding: “Awareness sparks dialogue, which in turn is the catalyst for change. Designers are taking note, as many more are working with vegan materials than ever before, and we predict further progress will take place over upcoming seasons.”


Model Alliance protest at NYFW SS24. Credits: Model Alliance.



Despite being less common for SS24, the industry was also facing criticism from its own kind too, aligning with ongoing global conversations surrounding workers rights. In New York, the Model Alliance used the city’s fashion week as an opportunity to speak on the lack of labour protections within the modelling industry, relating to the recently concluded SAG-AFTRA strike. The organisation noted that, akin to actors and Hollywood writers, models were struggling to secure workplace protection, with participants of a press conference calling on the state’s lawmakers to enact the Fashion Workers Act in order to regulate “predatory management companies” in this field.


Speaking on the demands and highlighting the need for the bill to be put into place, New York senator Brad Hoylman-Sigal said in a statement: “This fashion week, labour rights are trending. Actors and models share the unfortunate experience of exploitation by big production studios and model management companies. But loopholes in our state law leave models vulnerable to exploitation and abuse while agencies profit off their image. Fashion workers deserve the same protections as anyone else, especially in an industry worth 2.5 trillion dollars globally.”


The impact of such movements during the very public fashion weeks is typically never immediately known, as are the responses from designers or related organisations. For each of those carrying out the statements, work will be ongoing until demands are met. PETA, for example, often takes matters into the boardrooms of targeted brands, while Extinction Rebellion’s reputation for over-the-top demonstrations ensures that its policies remain front of mind for those they come into contact with. Either way, it is clear that climate-centric organisations have no intention of backing down from their mission, especially when fashion is demanding for such judgement.

Read more:



* PETA Interview: ‘Cruelty is something that is built in’






* Extinction Rebellion calls for cancelling London Fashion Week






* Why protesting at a Louis Vuitton show does nothing to focus our sustainability goals


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Phoebe Philo's first collection to drop October 30

Phoebe Philo Credits: Archive photo



British designer Phoebe Philo is set to launch her highly anticipated signature collection on October 30, marking the opening of her official website for business.


The announcement was made via an email to subscribers and press, which included only the release date and a series of rapid imagery flashes featuring faces, plants, fingers, and what appears to be headlights, reported WWD.


Details about the collection and its offerings remain undisclosed, building anticipation among Philo's dedicated followers. A holding page on the brand's website launched in July, allowing users to sign up for updates and news, hinting at the imminent launch of Ms Philo's first collection under her own name.


Despite a blank Instagram account with no posts, it has already amassed a following of 266,000, a testament to the enduring enthusiasm and interest in her work within the fashion industry.


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IFM and Première Vision publish study on: ‘the evolution of sustainable fashion and its perception’

Fashion designer Maroussia Rebecq and her model at an exhibition at the CAPC museum of modern art in Bordeaux. Credits: photo @sainte_colette



”The image of fashion is undoubtedly improving," the director of the IFM Economic Observatory said in the context of a recent study on fashion and sustainability conducted by the French fashion school and the trade show Première Vision. The report, entitled "Sustainable fashion hits its stride," gives insight into the dynamics of eco-responsibility and its developments.

About the study:


The results of this study conducted by IFM-Première Vision follow an initial edition published in 2019. The analysis is based on the responses to a survey of 5,000 individuals surveyed in five countries: France, the United Kingdom, Germany, Italy, and the United States. The study was released on September 13, 2023.


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PrettyLittleThing launches new premium collection PLT Label

PLT Label, premium collection at PrettyLittleThing Credits: PrettyLittleThing



In Pictures


Online womenswear retailer PrettyLittleThing has launched a new premium collection featuring pieces that offer “instant elevation”.


PLT Label launches with 28 looks that the e-commerce brand states have been selectively curated “to fulfil all your ‘what to wear’ dilemmas”.


Designed by its in-house team, the collection takes inspiration from the catwalk and “reimagines it for real life,” featuring trend essentials and statement pieces offering everything from weekend looks to elevated off-duty essentials.


PLT Label, premium collection at PrettyLittleThing Credits: PrettyLittleThing



Highlights include structured blazer and midi dress styles, micro-mini skirts, cut-out knitted co-ords, skin-baring low-rise trousers, as well as worn-in faux-leather pieces designed in matching sets and wide-leg trousers, all offered in a colour palette of oatmeal hues, olive accents and charcoal tones.


PLT Label collection is available now via PrettyLittleThing’s website in sizes UK 4-30 / US 0-26. Prices start from 16 pounds.


PLT Label, premium collection at PrettyLittleThing Credits: PrettyLittleThing



PLT Label, premium collection at PrettyLittleThing Credits: PrettyLittleThing



PLT Label, premium collection at PrettyLittleThing Credits: PrettyLittleThing



PLT Label, premium collection at PrettyLittleThing Credits: PrettyLittleThing



PLT Label, premium collection at PrettyLittleThing Credits: PrettyLittleThing



PLT Label, premium collection at PrettyLittleThing Credits: PrettyLittleThing


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Recover names new CEO amid expansion plans

Goldman Sachs x Recover labels. Credits: Goldman Sachs x Recover



Spanish materials science company Recover has announced the appointment of Anders Sjoblom to the role of chief executive officer as it continues expanding on its supply chain network.


From January 1, 2024, Sjoblom will take the helm of the company where he has been tasked with driving Recover into its next stage of growth. He will join the firm from the H&M Group, where he currently serves as global managing director of H&M lifestyle brands.


Sjoblom’s appointment is linked to a slew of shifts at Recover, with Alfredo Ferre, fourth-generation family steward of the company, also set to transition to the newly created role of chief product and innovation officer, in which he will focus on innovation and technical leadership.


It further follows the appointment of Matthew Neville as the company’s first global chief commercial officer, building on plans to establish a customer-centric sales team.


In a release, Recover’s chairman and former CEO, Olof Persson, said: “These leadership changes enable Recover to focus on ensuring operational and financial excellence while continuing to innovate and lead disruptive change for the apparel and textile industries.


“Anders has an outstanding track record of having successfully scaled global businesses while driving growth and brand awareness, while Alfredo will return to his roots as he focuses on strategic product vision and innovation.”


The group is currently scaling its production of sustainable recycled cotton fibre, having opened a facility in Bangladesh in 2022 that added to its existing network in Spain and Pakistan, as well as a planned facility in Vietnam.


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SS24: Nostalgia, raves and ‘real’ fashion at Milan Fashion Week

Gucci SS24 Credit: Spotlight Launchmetrics



After years of spectacular fashion shows with a certain showmanship originally reserved for haute couture, this season's Milan Fashion Week offered a now rare insight into what ready-to-wear collections used to be all about: fashion that could move from the catwalk to the store.


A low-key debut puts the ‘product’ in focus




A sense of anticipation and marketing drowned out Sabato De Sarno's debut show for Gucci, which ended up making a name for itself primarily through a wearability that was unusual for the Italian luxury brand. While De Sarno's predecessor Alessandro Michele enchanted the fashion world with elaborate stagings and a dose of magic, De Sarno's ‘Ancora’ collection, designed to make people want Gucci again, focused more on the product than on a visionary idea and a spectacular catwalk show.


Read more about the Gucci debut here:




* Gucci in transition: The debut of Sabato De Sarno and the birth of a new luxury icon


* Milan Fashion Week: Gucci unveils the first collection designed by Sabato De Sarno
* Gucci’s whimsy to chic shift leaves some wanting more





The planned show on the streets of Milan fell through due to the weather, leaving the Florentine luxury fashion house with no choice but to bring the show to the dry ‘Gucci Hub’, the brand's Milan headquarters. Still, the question remains whether the mix of everyday looks, rhinestone-studded tops and bras and platform loafers presented in front of a star-studded Front Row would have brought a little more coherence in its original location.


Gucci SS24 Credit: Spotlight Launchmetrics



Gucci seemed to allude not only to its own brand archive, but also to the archives of the biggest brands of previous seasons, which not only received rave reviews, but also achieved corresponding sales figures. To what extent De Sarno's highly commercial performance is actually crowned with success will only become clear when the collection hits the shops next year. What cannot be denied, however, is that it is not difficult to imagine the Gucci sweatshirts, mini-skirts and coats on hangers in the stores and on numerous customers.


Gucci SS24 Credit: Spotlight Launchmetrics



Gucci, however, was by no means the only brand at Milan Fashion Week to look to the past for the upcoming spring/summer season. Donatella Versace went back to 1995 and returned with a ‘60s collection inspired by her late brother Gianni Versace and ‘90s supermodel Claudia Schiffer, while designer Peter Hawkings paid homage to his time at Gucci in his Tom Ford debut.


Despite the seemingly shared penchant for nostalgia and commercialism, however, Milan's designers continued to take radically different paths.


Raves and eccentricity for Gen Z clients




Diesel - seemingly a perennial outlier headed by designer Glenn Martens - invited some 6,000 guests to a techno rave in the pouring rain. With all the excitement, the fashion show that opened the party almost became a minor matter, at least on social media. Nevertheless, behind the spectacle was a collection that - at least within the ‘Dieselverse’ - is thoroughly wearable.


Diesel SS24 Credit: Spotlight Launchmetrics



Models braved the storm in T-shirts paired with grey trousers that revealed a hint of skin. Discoloured anoraks and knitted tank tops were reminiscent of well-worn garments, while V-neck dresses and oversized cardigans were deconstructed. Martens brought Gen Z friendly ensembles paired with gritty realism and party-ready style that resembled the outfits worn by guests at the venue, simultaneously offering a glimpse of future potential clientele. Graphic print shirts were reminiscent of film posters, and the models painted in silver spray paint nodded to their extraterrestrial protagonists. The ‘D’ logo still abounded, as did the illusion that torn clothes could fall off the models' bodies at any moment and, of course, lots of denim.


Diesel SS24 Credit: Spotlight Launchmetrics




Few brands remain as unbridled as Diesel, unless their own history allows it, as is the case with Roberto Cavalli. Fausto Puglisi, who has been creative director for the Italian label since 2020, seemed to delve deeper into Cavalli's archives and jungle with each season, with this one being a more literal take as the designer transformed the Milan Stock Exchange into a green oasis.


It is hard to imagine that Puglisi, like Cavalli himself, has ever heard of minimalism or "quiet luxury", and if he has, he categorically rejects them. His performance was loud, sometimes garish, full of ‘70s hippies and the excess that goes with them, but above all, the collection was 100 percent Cavalli - the only question is whether the customers for such a collection have not remained in the time of the flower children.


Roberto Cavalli SS24 Credit: Spotlight Launchmetrics



At Etro, another storied brand with a loud and eclectic history, creative director Marco De Vincenzo seemed to be finding his feet after two seasons and establishing his own vision, even if the collection was officially set in "nowhere".


Minimalist, commercial and yet surprising?




Even if fashion is an industry, the word ‘commercial’ is not necessarily always welcome – especially when it is used to describe a collection. But Bottega Veneta, Ferragamo and Jil Sander proved that commercialism can also be fashionable and, above all, surprising.


Matthieu Blazy started his Bottega Veneta show with his now customary simplicity, which gave way to increasingly extreme silhouettes and experimentation over the course of the 73 looks in total. The Belgian designer seemed to have turned over a new leaf with a collection that was, as he stated in the show notes, “free” and “without codes”.


Bottega Veneta SS24 Credit: Spotlight Launchemetrics



Despite bold new proportions, the designer stayed true to himself and his previously established aesthetic, as well as his penchant for leather, that had been combined his signature with a range of new textures reminiscent of fishnets and pom-poms, without appearing exaggerated or even childish. If anything, Blazy proved that minimalism doesn't have to be boring or predictable, and fashion can be incredibly wearable on the runway.


Bottega Veneta SS24 Credit: Spotlight Launchmetrics



Maximilian Davis also seemed to have taken a new path in his third show for Salvatore Ferragamo. Gone is the red so present in his first two collections, giving way to a minimalist, precision-cut performance that mixed officewear with elegant eveningwear. Like Blazy's collection, the 64-piece line consisted of lots of leather dipped in deep green, while the figure-hugging dresses contoured the models' bodies. Jackets were replaced by decorative evening wear and elegant capes revealed sophisticated constructions, all of which appeared both casual and sophisticated - a balance and art usually attributed mostly to Prada.


Ferragamo SS24 Credit: Spotlight Launchmetrics



Fashion is in the eye of the beholder




This season, the Italian brand Sunnei came up with something to expose their collection to the immediate feedback and criticism of the audience present. The idea went far beyond the usual well-behaved and polite applause for fashion shows, as those present were given a series of paddles with which they were instructed to rate the looks from one to ten, as is later done anyway in the comments on social media.


Sunnei SS24 Credit: Spotlight Launchmetrics



While the idea of the designer duo Simone Rizzo and Loris Messina was probably more a kind of socially critical mirror for the constant criticism and expression of opinions on Instagram and the like, it is also an extremely fitting symbol for a season in which fashion brands seem to have been particularly concerned with the favour of their customers and the commercial success that goes with it. While most brands will not experience the commercial appeal of their collections until February next year at the earliest, Sunnei may already have had a taste.


This article originally appeared on FashionUnited.DE. Translation and edit by: Rachel Douglass.

Read more from the SS24 fashion season:



* Making fashion week work: London brings wearable style to the forefront






* Tom Ford after Tom Ford? Peter Hawkings revels in memories of Gucci for his debut






* Runway crashers and Peter Do's debut: New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2024 recap






* Fashion Week Tokyo designers on Japan's market and broadening their horizons






* Fashion week gets personal: Copenhagen drives home the emerging designer movement


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Shein hosts live fashion show for AW23 collection

Shein Marseille pop-up. Credits: Shein. Fast fashion giant Shein took to a new format over the weekend to present its latest autumn/winter 2023 collection, opting to unveil nine of the pieces via a livestreamed runway show on social media. Dubbed ‘Shein Live: Front Row’, the shoppable livestream lasted three hours and was co-hosted by actress and influencer Taela Dunn and Shein host Renee Ariel. Viewers could tune into the event via Shein’s own e-commerce app, as well as its Facebook, YouTube, Instagram and X – formerly Twitter – pages, where looks spanned nine new collections, including ‘Totally Timeless’, ‘Ready for Romance’ and ‘Fits for All’. In a release, George Chiao, president of Shein US, said: “Shein was founded on the mission of making fashion accessible to all, and through Shein Live: Front Row, we're excited to give all fans the opportunity to experience fashion from prime first row seating. "Through this virtual show, we are looking forward to showcasing our wide variety of clothing for Fall/Winter and making it possible for fans to shop styles directly from the runway to their closets." The concept of such fashion show setups isn’t entirely new and has proved to be a successful marketing tactic for other brands, such as Victoria’s Secret and Rihanna’ Savage x Fenty, both of which have built entire cultures around their events.
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Coty reportedly moving ahead with Paris listing

Coty Campus in the metaverse Credits: Coty Beauty giant Coty is believed to be going ahead with its second stock exchange listing, with it reportedly planning to enter the Paris Stock Exchange (PAR) as soon as the coming weeks. Details of the NYSE-listed group’s plans had initially been unveiled in a regulatory filing published in May, with the dual listing idea formulated around the goal of strengthening its presence on the European market and tapping into new investors in the market. Now, according to Bloomberg News which had first reported on the latest developments, Coty has appointed BNP Paribas and Citigroup to work on the deal, while also understood to be considering raising fresh capital from the listing. The media outlet further noted that the company was looking to formally announce its plans within the next few days, with a listing to potentially follow shortly after. The news comes just days after Coty raised its guidance for the full year after seeing “strong momentum” in demand across key markets and categories. The firm is now expecting FY24 core like-for-like sales growth of between 8 and 10 percent, up from its recent guidance that was in range of 6 to 8 percent growth.
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Camilla Franks creates couture gown to celebrate 100 years of Disney

Disney Create 100 couture gown by Camilla Franks Credits: Camilla, Disney Create 100 In Pictures Australian fashion designer Camilla Franks has unveiled a one-of-a-kind couture gown inspired by Disney's Mickey Mouse's longtime sweetheart, Minnie Mouse, as part of the 100 years of Disney celebrations. The gown, which has been months in the making, features 42 metres of silk, 10 metres of tulle and more than 100,000 hand-applied crystals and is part of Disney’s Create 100 initiative, where talent across fashion, music, and art are donating artworks, items and experiences to benefit Make-A-Wish inspired by their personal connection to stories and characters across Disney, Pixar, Marvel, Star Wars and 20th Century. Commenting on the gown, Franks said in a statement: “The inspiration for my Create 100 couture gown came from Minnie Mouse’s iconic bow. Part of the Camilla brand DNA that we’ve built into it is that – although it looks like a full couture gown on the outside, it’s quite unstructured underneath. It has a sense of freedom and play.” Disney Create 100 couture gown by Camilla Franks Credits: Camilla, Disney Create 100 The vibrant gown features a knot-detailed bodice, extravagant cascading bow-shaped tiers and a high-low skirt silhouette, complete with a train adorned with 400 crystalised Mickey heads made up of a total of 65,000 crystals, and a striking comic strip print. Designed to fit a range of sizes, with ties that form a large bow at the back, the gown is crafted from signature Camilla silk taffeta and features multiple layers of tulle encased within double layers of billowy bow-shaped ruffles to create the voluminous silhouette. On the construction of the couture gown, Franks added: “The cutting alone took two full days, putting the piece together took five weeks with a whole team working on it.” Disney Create 100 couture gown by Camilla Franks Credits: Camilla, Disney Create 100 Franks, who represents Australia and New Zealand, was also asked to elect a fellow Australian creative she believes represents the next generation of storytellers as part of the project. She chose next-generation artist Bella Bruzzese, who has created fashion and textile designs for artists, including Katy Perry and Cardi B, to design something for Create 100. Bruzzese created a ‘By A Cheshire Chance’ leather and crystal mask inspired by the Cheshire Cat from Alice In Wonderland, which will be on display alongside the Camilla couture gown at Westfield Bondi Junction until October 18. Disney Create 100 couture gown by Camilla Franks Credits: Camilla, Disney Create 100
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Secret Sales acquires Spanish discount retailer Dreivip

Secret Sales campaign imagery. Credits: Secret Sales. Off-price retail platform Secret Sales has snapped up Spain’s discount retailer Dreivip for an undisclosed sum as part of its newly launched merger and acquisition (M&A) strategy. The “aggressive” scheme has been introduced after Secret Sales began making its entry into new regions, most recently stepping into the Netherlands and Belgium, making Spain the third European territory for the business. It noted that Dreivip would continue to trade as normal until a new co-branded site goes live in October, through which around 450 brands, with a further 70 Spanish brands and retailers, are to be featured. In terms of its financials, Secret Sales said that with the acquisition it expects over 150 percent growth YoY across the whole of Europe for the entire 2023, with inventory growth also now forecast to be over 100 percent following Dreivip’s relaunch. To support such growth, the company had secured a 10 million dollar Series B funding in May 2023, with “retail heavyweight investors” among those leading. In a release, Chris Griffin, Secret Sales’ CEO, said that brands were turning to off-price in a bid to remain on-brand and profitable, adding: “Despite the difficult retail climate, we are seeing significant growth, and the expansion into Spain is just the start of a wider pan European strategy to ensure that more brands and retailers get to experience the unique benefits of our platform. “We are already in active and advanced discussion with a further 70 local Spanish brands that are very excited about our unique proposition.”
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Video: Tory Burch SS24

Tory Burch SS24 Credits: Launchmetrics Spotlight In this video you can see Tory Burch’s SS24 collection presented at New York Fashion Week. FF Channel via Youtube Promotion Read more about Tory Burch on their brandpage
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